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Title: The Abergeldie Winter Book

Author: Eléonore Riego de la Branchardière
Release Date: September 7, 2021 [eBook #66234]
Language: English
Character set encoding: UTF-8
Produced by: Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ABERGELDIE WINTER BOOK ***

# THE ABERGELDIE WINTER BOOK

THE
ABERGELDIE WINTER BOOK.

BY
MLLE. RIEGO DE LA BRANCHARDIERE.

BY SPECIAL APPOINTMENT ARTISTE IN NEEDLEWORK
TO H. R. H. THE PRINCESS OF WALES.

LONDON: SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, AND CO.;
AND ALL THE BERLIN WAREHOUSES.

1867.

Price One Shilling.

Prize Medal, 1851.

Prize Medal, 1855.

Prize Medal, 1862.

Prize Medal, 1862.

AWARDED
“FOR THE SKILL DISPLAYED IN THE IMITATION OF OLD SPANISH AND OTHER COSTLY LACES.”

See Jurors’ Report, International Exhibition.

MUFF

CAPE

CROSS-OVER

PETTICOAT

VESTE

HOOD

{3}

THE
ABERGELDIE WINTER BOOK.

## OPERA HOOD.

IN CROCHET, ORNAMENTED WITH TATTING.

See the Frontispiece.

Materials—16 skeins of Pink and the same of White single Berlin Wool; 3 skeins of White Floss Silk. Walker’s Tricot Needle No. 5 Bell gauge.

The Tatting—A large Shuttle, and for the pearl loops a short mesh, which measures 1¾ inches in circumference, and another 1¼ round, are required.

The Crown.

Commence with the White wool and the Tricot needle; make a chain of 15 stitches. The whole of the stitches should be worked very loosely.

1st row—Miss the last 4 chain stitches, and work a plain crochet stitch into the next stitch of the foundation chain; then (make 2 chain, miss a stitch of the foundation and work 1 plain crochet stitch, 5 times); turn back.

2nd row—Make 2 chain, miss 2, and work 1 plain stitch in the 2 chain of the last row; repeat to the end, then to Increase work 2 chain and 1 plain again in the last loop; turn back.

Work 7 rows more, the same as the last, when it will be increased to 14 loops. It should measure seven inches across without stretching.

Work 9 rows of the same stitch, but omitting the increased loops at the end of the rows.

{4}

19th row—To decrease, miss the last stitch and work 1 plain in the last loop of chain; then 2 chain and 1 plain as before, to the end.

Work 8 rows more as the last. Then work a row of 1 chain and 1 plain in each loop.

Join on the Colored wool, and work a row of plain crochet all round, working two stitches to the side of each of the white rows.

For the second round—Work 4 chain, miss 1 and 1 plain. Repeat and fasten off.

Use the Floss Silk and an Embroidery Needle. Work an ordinary Cross stitch over each of the plain stitches of the Crown, putting the needle into the open spaces.

The Tatting Flowers.

1st Circle—Wind the colored and White Wool together, and fill the Shuttle with it, using the doubled wool as one thread.

Commence a loop, work a double stitch; then using the largest mesh for the pearl loops, work (1 pearl and 1 double alternately 16 times); draw close; leaving a small circle in the centre about the size of the 2nd mesh, and knotting the ends firmly together, cut them off.

2nd Circle—Use the colored wool doubled, and the second sized mesh. Commence a loop, work 1 double, then (1 pearl and 1 double 12 times); draw close and fasten off.

3rd Circle—Use the White Floss, and for the pearl loops the Tricot needle can be used. Commence a loop; work 1 double, (1 pearl and 2 double 8 times); draw close. Fasten off.

Place the second circle over the first, and the silk one in the centre, sewing them together with the silk, then attach them to the crown about an inch from the edge of it.

Make nine Flowers for the Crown and four for the Lappets.

The Lappets.

Work with the White wool and Tricot needle. Make a chain of 11 stitches.

1st row—Raise 11 loops in the ordinary Tricot stitch, and work back, see page 28.

2nd row—Raise a loop, Increase a loop, raise 2 loops; then to decrease, put the needle into the three next stitches, and bring the wool through them all. Raise the 2 next loops as before.{5} Increase again, and raise the 2 last loops. There will be 11 loops on the needle. Work back as before. Work 8 rows more as the last.

11th row—Raise the 1st stitch and increase a loop as before; then decrease the two next stitches, taking them together as one stitch; take the next three loops together; then take the two next loops together as one stitch, then Increase a loop as before, and raise the two last loops. There will now be 9 loops. Work back.

12th row—Raise a loop and increase as before; raise the next loop, then take 3 together, raise a loop, increase, raise 2 loops. Work back. Work 8 rows more as the last.

21st row—Raise a loop and increase as before; then put the needle into the next 5 loops, and bring the wool through them all as one stitch; increase again and raise 2 loops: there will now be 7 loops. Work back.

22nd row—Raise a loop and increase; then take the next 3 loops together; increase and raise 2 loops. Work back. Work 20 rows more as the last, or any length preferred.

The Edge—With the colored wool, work loosely a row of plain crochet all round the lappet, putting the needle into the spaces formed by the increased stitches. 2 chain and an extra plain stitch should be made at the two ends and centre of the first white row.

Make sufficient of the Scallop Trimming, page 11, to go round the Lappet, using the colored wool doubled, and the smaller mesh for the pearl loops. For the crochet row the wool is to be single.

The Joining—work with the Floss Silk, which had better be used double. Commence at the colored row, round the Lappet, and work a plain crochet stitch; then take out the needle and put it into the last stitch of the Scallop Trimming, taking both edges of the plain row, bring the Floss through; then work another plain stitch on the lappet, taking both edges, continue joining and working a plain stitch alternately.

Work a row of Cross stitches with the Floss silk up the centre.

Make the other Lappet the same, sew them to the crown and attach two flowers at each side.

{6}

## MAZARIN CAPE.

Materials—For the Cape, 4 ounces of single or double Wool, and for the Trimmings 3 skeins of double Berlin Wool of a color which contrasts; Walker’s Tricot Needle No. 7 Bell gauge, a large Tatting Shuttle, and a round Mesh No. 1 Bell gauge.

This Cape is worked in open Crochet ornamented with Tatting, see the Frontispiece.

It will be greatly improved if Floss Silk is introduced as described in the Opera Hood. The centre should then be white with colored Trimming, but any two colors that contrast will look well, as Pearl Grey with Crimson, Mauve with Amber, or Violet with Grey.

The Divisions.

Commence with the Wool for the centre, and make 15 chain stitches.

1st row—Miss the last 4 chain and work a plain crochet stitch in the next stitch; (then 2 chain, miss 1 and 1 plain, 5 times); turn back. It should measure 3 inches in length without stretching. If single Wool is used it should be worked loosely.

2nd row—Work 3 chain, miss 1 and 1 treble in the last 2 chain; then 2 chain, miss 2 and 1 plain in each loop of 2 chain to the end; turn back.

3rd row—Work the same as the 2nd row.

4th row—3 chain, miss 1, 1 treble in the last loop of chain; then 2 chain, miss 2, and 1 plain as before to the end; and to Increase a loop work 3 chain and 1 plain in the same loop as the last plain stitch; turn back.

5th row—Work the same as the 4th row.

Repeat the last 4 rows 6 times more. As the work will increase two loops every four rows there will now be 20 loops. It is intended that the work should be longer at the sides than in the centre of the division.

{7}

30th row—3 chain, miss 1 and 1 treble; then 2 chain, miss 2 and 1 plain as before, for 7 loops, then work 5 loops, making only 1 chain instead of 2 chain; then work 7 loops with 2 chain, and increase in the last loop.

31st row—3 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, then work 7 loops with 2 chain; 6 loops with 1 chain, and 7 loops of 2 chain; then increase at the end.

32nd row—Work 1 chain, miss 1 and 1 plain in each loop of chain to the end; then 1 chain and 1 plain in the last loop. Work 2 rows more as the last, and fasten off.

Work five Divisions more the same, and sew the slanting sides of them together. Three rounds of 1 chain, miss 1 and 1 plain, should be worked along the neck, then commencing at the right point work a plain row up the front, across the neck, and down the other side.

The Trimming in Tatting.

The Rosette—Fill the Shuttle with the Wool and using the mesh for the pearl loops, commence a loop, work 1 double, (then make a pearl and work a double stitch alternately for 7 loops); draw close. Keep the Wool at the back and join it to the centre pearl.

Work another Rosette the same, and join it to the same pearl of the previous Rosette as before; then keep the Wool as the back and join to the centre pearl of the last Rosette. Repeat the last Rosette until sufficient is made for the sides and border, to which it is to be attached by sewing it with the same colored Wool.

The Rosettes down the Divisions are made in the same manner, but as they are to be smaller, only 5 pearls instead of 7 pearls are to be made for each Rosette.

The Balls—Take a yard of the Wool the same color as the Tatting, split it three times, and wind it round the tops of the first and second fingers, take it off the fingers and wind a piece of fine thread about three times very tightly round the middle of the wool, knotting the ends together, also tie in a piece of the wool not split, to form the thread to attach the Balls to the work; cut the wool at each end, rounding it into the shape.

Make sufficient of these Balls to go all round the Edge, placing them about two inches apart.

{8}

## RETICULE MUFF.

In Tricot Ecossais.—See Frontispiece.

Materials—4 skeins of Scarlet and 2 of Black double Berlin Wool, or 4-ply Fleecy, Walker’s Tricot Needle No. 6 Bell gauge.

Commence the Outside with the Black wool, and make a chain of 34 stitches. See Instructions for this stitch page 28.

1st row—Miss the last chain stitch. * Put the needle into the next chain stitch, and bring the wool through it in a loop. Repeat from * until there are 34 loops on the needle. Then join on the scarlet wool, and “Work Back.” Join on the black wool.

2nd row—Work with the Black wool, and raise all the loops of the last row; then join on the scarlet wool and Work back.

Repeat as the last row until 16 inches are worked; then, to shape the Flap or part which falls over the pocket, work the same stitch, but decreasing at the beginning and end of every row by taking two stitches together until it is reduced to a point.

The Lining.

Work with the Scarlet wool and make a piece the same as the outside; when finished it is to be made round by joining the foundation row to the one before the flap is begun, so as to leave it on the outside.

For the Pocket take a piece of merino or silk the length of the muff, and about 8 inches deep double it, and sew the double part to the Lining 4 inches below the joining; then sew one edge of the silk to the joining. Wadding is to be placed between the lining and the outside, which is now to be sewn at the sides and round the flap, but the foundation row is to be joined to the other edge of the pocket. Finish with a Fur Trimming or Border, as given in the Winter Book, 1862, round the end and flap, which must be secured with a loop and button.

{9}

## CROSSOVER SHAWL.

IN TRICOT ECOSSAIS, WITH TATTING BORDER.

See the Frontispiece.

Materials—For the Tricot, 6 ounces of Mauve, Blue, or Magenta 4-ply Fleecy, Walker’s Tricot Needle No. 3 Bell gauge. Berlin Wool 8-ply can be used, or 3-ply Fleecy.

For the Border, a skein of Black and two of White double Berlin Wool, a large Shuttle, and a Mesh No. 1 Bell gauge.

The Back.

Commence with the Colored Fleecy, and the Tricot Needle. Make a chain of 7 stitches.

1st row—Miss the last chain stitch. * Put the needle into the next stitch, and bring the wool through in a loop. Repeat from * until there are 7 loops on the needle. Work back. See Instructions, page 28, at the end of the book.

2nd row—Raise the 7 loops of the 1st row, and work back.

3rd row—Raise a loop, then Increase a loop by putting the needle between the upright stitches; Raise 3 loops as usual; then Increase another loop; raise the 2 last loops. Work back.

4th row—Raise a loop, Increase, raise 5 loops, increase again, raise 2 loops. Work back.

5th Row—Raise a loop, increase, raise 7 loops, increase again, raise 2 loops. Work back.

6th row—Raise a loop, increase, then raise all the loops to within two of the end; increase again, and raise the two last loops. Work back. The work should be loose. As a guide for the size of the stitch, the last row should measure 4 inches across, and these 6 rows 2½ inches in depth.

Work 5 rows more the same as the 6th row.

12th row—Raise all the loops without increasing, and work back.

Work 4 rows as the 6th row, that is increasing 2 stitches each row, and then work every 5th row without increasing until 37 rows in all are worked, when there will be 65 stitches.

{10}

Work 4 rows without shaping. If for an extra size a few more rows may be added here, and also at the plain rows on each shoulder. This finishes the back.

To Shape the Right Front—1st row—Raise all the loops of the last row until there are 28 on the needle. Work back.

2nd and 3rd rows—Raise all the loops to the two last, then decrease by taking these loops together as one stitch. Work back.

4th row—Raise a loop, then decrease as before, raise the rest to the end. Work back.

Then work 4 rows plain without shaping.

Repeat as the 4th row, and the 4 rows plain after it, 5 times more; that is decreasing a stitch at the beginning of every 5th row; the left selvedge should be quite straight.

Then to shape the end, decrease a stitch at the beginning and end of every 3rd row, until it is reduced to a point.

To Shape the Left Front—1st row—Commence at the stitches left at the back, and leaving 9 for the neck, raise the remaining 28 loops as usual. Work back.

2nd and 3rd rows—Work 2 rows, decreasing a loop at the beginning of each row. All the rows must now be kept straight at the beginning.

Work 4 rows plain, and at the end of every 5th row decrease a stitch, in all 6 times. Then decrease a stitch at the beginning and end of every 3rd row until it is reduced to a point.

The Tatting Border.

The Dot—Fill the Shuttle with the White Wool, and use the Tricot Needle for the pearl loops. Commence a loop, work 3 double stitches, then (1 pearl loop and 3 double stitches twice); draw quite close and reverse the work.

Commence the next Dot close to the last and repeat the dot, reversing them after each is made. Work sufficient to go all round the Tricot.

The Edge—Work with the Black Wool, and commencing at the last pearl of the Dots, crochet a plain stitch in it; then work another plain stitch in the next pearl of the same Dot,{11} and missing the Dot which turns down, work a plain stitch in the 1st pearl of the next dot but one. Repeat working a plain stitch in the two pearls of every other dot.

The Joining—Work with the Black wool, and commencing at the left corner of the Tricot, work a plain crochet stitch between the rows of it; then, to join the Tatting, take out the needle, put it into a pearl of a Dot, and bringing the loop through work a plain stitch on the Tricot, and continue the same until the Tatting is joined. To round the corners so that the Border may lie flat, the needle should be put into the last pearl of one dot and the 1st pearl of the next, and worked as one stitch. This should be done five or six times. With the same colored wool as the Tricot, make sufficient of the Scalloped Trimming to go all round, and join it to the black row of the Border with the black wool, always putting the needle into both edges of the plain rows.

## TATTING SCALLOP TRIMMING.

Materials—The edging being used to ornament more than one of the patterns in this book, the materials are given with each article.

The Scallops—Fill the Shuttle with the Wool, and commencing a loop work 2 double stitches, then with the Mesh or pin (make a pearl loop and work a double stitch alternately, until 6 loops are made); then work another double stitch and draw the loop nearly close, leaving a space in the centre the size of the Mesh.

Leave three-quarters of an inch of Wool before commencing the next Scallop. Continue them until the length is made.

Work with the Tricot Needle; take the Tatting and, keeping the straight edge at the top, work a plain Crochet stitch in the last pearl of the Scallop; then work 2 plain in the space in the centre of the Scallop and 1 plain in the last pearl. The thread which connects the Scallops is to be worked under these stitches. Continue working 4 plain stitches to each Scallop.

{12}

## GENTLEMAN’S SOCK OR HALF-HOSE.

RIBBED KNITTING.

Materials—4 ounces of plain or speckled Fingering Yarn, and 1 ounce of a contrasting color for the top and toe. 5 Knitting Needles No. 17 Bell gauge.

The following directions will make a full-sized Stocking, viz—12 inches round the top of the leg, 12 inches in length from the top to the heel, and 11 inches long in the foot. By using Needles Nos. 16 or 18 it will make a size larger or smaller.

The Leg—Use the color for the top—Cast on 24 stitches on each of four needles, keeping the fifth to make it round.

1st round—Pearl 3 stitches and knit 3 stitches alternately all round; in all 96 stitches.

Work 30 rounds or two inches more the same, always knitting or pearling the same stitches throughout the leg.—With the other color, knit 8 inches more the same.

To Shape the Heel—Knit 23 stitches plain off the 1st needle which leaves a stitch, and putting it on the 2nd needle turn back, so as to work on the 23 stitches. Slip the 1st stitch and pearl the 22 stitches, then, using the same needle, pearl 20 stitches off the next needle, which leaves 4 stitches; put them on the next needle and turn back. The 53 stitches on the other needles are left for the Instep.

1st row—Slip the 1st stitch, knit 20, pearl 1, knit 21; turn back.

2nd row—Slip 1, pearl 42 stitches; turn back.

Repeat the 2 last rows 22 times more.

To round the Heel. 47th row—Slip 1, knit 15, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn back, leaving 16 stitches on the other needle.

Baby’s Boot.

Muffatee.

Gentleman’s Sock.

Lady’s Stocking.

Sleeping Sock.

48th row—Slip 1, pearl 10, turn back, leaving 14 stitches—slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 7,{15} knit 2 together, knit 1, turn back; † slip 1, pearl 12, that is, 2 stitches on those left unworked, turn back—slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn back. Repeat from † 6 times more, always knitting or pearling 2 stitches more each time, so as every row to use two of the stitches left unworked; when finished, there will be 25 stitches on the needle.

The Instep—Commence at the end of the 53 stitches left unworked, and with another needle raise 23 stitches from the selvedge formed by the rows at the right side of the heel.

Take another needle, and knit the 25 stitches left from the heel.

Then with the 5th needle, raise 23 stitches down the selvedge of the left side of the heel, and with the same needle knit off the first plain stitch of the 53. Put 51 of these instep stitches on one needle, and place the remaining stitch on the next needle to the left. It will now be 124 stitches round.

1st round—Work across the instep. (Pearl 3 and knit 3, alternately as before, 8 times) then pearl 3; knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 67 plain; then knit 2 together, knit 1 plain.

2nd round—(Pearl 3 and knit 3, 8 times), pearl 3, knit the rest of the round all plain.

Repeat these two rounds 16 times more, knitting 2 stitches less at the stitches marked in italics each time.

Then knit 50 rounds the same as the 2nd round; when finished knit 20 rounds all plain.

The Toe—Join on the other color and decrease thus—

1st round—Knit 2 together, knit 37 plain, knit 2 together, knit 4 plain. Repeat once more to finish the round.

2nd round—All plain.

Repeat the 2 last rounds 16 times more, knitting 2 plain less each time instead of 37.

Place the remaining stitches together so as to double the work, and knitting a stitch off each needle together, cast off the remaining stitches.

{16}

## A SLEEPING SOCK.

KNITTING.—See Page 13.

Materials—For a Lady, 2 skeins of white 3-ply Fleecy, and a pair of knitting pins, No. 12 Bell gauge; for a Gentleman the pins must be No. 10.

Commence at the sole. Cast on 28 stitches.

1st row—Slip 1, then increase a stitch by knitting the next stitch, but before taking it off the left pin, put the needle into the back of the same stitch and knit it off the pin; knit the rest of the row plain. Work 9 rows more the same.

Then work 18 rows, increasing in the same way at the beginning of every alternate row only, which will make one side slant more than the other; there will now be 47 stitches.

Knit 6 rows plain, always slipping the 1st stitch.

To form the Instep—Slip 1, knit 29, turn back, leaving 17 stitches on the pin: and on the 30 stitches knit 26 rows plain. The wool will be at the side nearest the stitches left, and with it cast 17 stitches on the pin with the 30 stitches, in all 47 stitches; and for the other side of the sole, knit 6 rows plain.

Next row—Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit the rest plain. Then knit a row plain. Work the last two rows 8 times more. Then 10 rows, decreasing every row, and cast off.

The Leg—Return to the stitches left, and with the same pin raise 14 stitches from the selvedge formed by the rows across the instep, thus: put the pin into the nearest stitch at the edge, and bring the wool through in a loop on it; then in the same manner raise 17 stitches from the stitches cast on; there will now be 48 stitches.

1st row—Slip 1, knit 1, then (pearl 2 and knit 2 alternately to the end).

Knit 29 rows more the same, then 6 rows plain, and cast off.

Sew the sides together, then the 1st and last rows of the sole, and the slanting sides, drawing the straight rows at the toe together.

{17}

## BABY’S CROCHET BOOT.

Materials—8 skeins of white and 16 of colored Single Berlin Wool; Walker’s Penelope Crochet Needle, No. 1. See page 13.

Commence at the Toe, and with the colored wool make 16 chain. The work should be tight.

1st row—Miss 1, 7 plain, 3 plain in one stitch, 7 plain, then 1 chain to form the selvedge, turn back. Now work in raised crochet, that is, putting the needle into the lower edge of the stitch of the previous row, and working a plain stitch, which will leave the upper edge in the front.

2nd row—Miss the 1 chain, work 8 plain always raised, then 3 stitches in one, 8 plain as before, 1 chain, turn back.

3rd row—Miss the 1 chain, then the rest plain; 1 chain at the end.

Repeat the last 2 rows, 9 times more, working a stitch more before and after the centre stitches each repeat. Then, to form the side of the boot,

22nd row—Miss the 1 chain, then 18 plain, still raised, 1 chain, turn back.

Work 37 rows more as the last, and when finished, crochet the last row to the other half of the front.

The Leg—With the Colored wool commence at the centre stitch of the front of the boot, and round the ribs formed by the side, worked thus—

1st round—4 chain, miss a rib, 1 plain in the side of the next rib. Repeat all round.

2nd round—Work in the 4 chain, (1 plain, then 3 chain, 1 treble, 3 chain, 1 plain, all in the same 4 chain). Repeat all round, and fasten off.

3rd round—With white wool commence at the top of the 10th rib of the 38 rows, and keeping the little Scallops formed by the last 2 rounds down in the front, work 1 chain, miss a rib, 1 treble in the top of the rib not used in the 1st round. Repeat all round.

{18}

4th round—All plain crochet.

5th round—Work in double crochet, that is, putting the needle into both edges of the previous round, and working a plain stitch.

Work 14 rounds more as the last.

20th round—4 chain, miss 1 and 1 plain. Repeat.

21st round—5 chain, miss 4, 1 plain in the 4 chain. Repeat. Join on the colored wool.

22nd and 23rd rounds—Work as the 21st round. Join on the white wool.

24th and 25th rounds—Work as the 21st round.

26th round—1 chain, miss 4, 1 plain in the 5 chain. Repeat, and fasten off.

The Sole.

With the Colored wool make a chain of 9 stitches.

1st row—Miss 1, 2 plain in one stitch, 7 plain, turn back.

Now work the rest of the sole in double crochet, which being worked backwards and forwards, will have a different effect from the leg.

2nd row—2 plain in the first stitch, the rest plain. Work 8 rows more the same as the last. There will now be 18 stitches.

11th and 12th rows—Plain.

13th row—Miss 1, the rest plain. Work 5 rows more as the last. Then 4 rows plain.

23rd row—2 plain in one, the rest plain. Work 7 rows more as the last.

31st and 32nd rows—Plain.

33rd row—Miss 1, the rest plain. Work 5 rows more the same.

39th row—Miss 1, the rest plain to the last 2 stitches, then miss 1, 1 plain.

Work 3 rows more the same, and fasten off. Sew the sole to the front, and finish with a bow and ribbon run into the open row at the leg.

{19}

## LADY’S STOCKING.

IN RIBBED KNITTING.

Materials—5 ounces of Andalusian, Eider, or Welsh Yarn, 5 Knitting Needles No. 18 Bell gauge. The following directions will make a full size stocking, viz., 15 inches round the top of the leg, 26 inches from the top to the heel, and 10½ inches long in the foot. By using Nos. 19 or 17 Needles a size smaller or larger can be made. See Page 13.

Commence at the top of the leg, and to make the foundation strong, the wool should be used double in casting on the stitches. Cast on 42 stitches on each of two needles, and 36 on the other two; keeping the fifth for making it round.

1st round—Pearl 3 stitches and knit 3 stitches plain alternately all round, in all 156 stitches. Continue the same until it is 13 inches in length.

Always pearl or knit the same stitches throughout the leg.

To Shape the Leg—1st round—Pearl the 3 first stitches; then to decrease, slip 1, knit 1, and turn the slipped stitch over; knit 1 plain; pearl 3 and knit 3, to within 2 stitches of the end, and decrease again by knitting them together.

Knit 8 rounds without decreasing.

Repeat the same, decreasing 2 stitches every 9th round, until it is reduced to 120 stitches.

In these rounds the 3 first stitches are always to be pearled; but the few stitches immediately following will vary, on account of the decreased stitches altering the number to be knitted or pearled. After the decreasing is worked three times, the stitches will require to be pearled together until the rib is decreased.

When the work is reduced to 120 stitches, sufficient rounds are to be worked without shaping to make it 23 inches in length from the top.

To Form the Heel—1st row—Knit 1, pearl 1, knit 28; turn back, so as to work on the 30 stitches, leaving the rest of the stitches unworked.

{20}

2nd row—Slip 1, pearl 29; then pearl 27 off the next needle; in all 57 stitches; turn back, leaving 63 stitches on the other needles for the Instep.

3rd row—Slip the 1st stitch, knit, 27, pearl 1, knit 28; turn back.

4th row—Slip 1, pearl 56 stitches; turn back. Repeat the 2 last rows 25 times more.

To round the Heel—47th row—Slip 1, knit 21, knit 2 together, knit 8, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn back, leaving 22 stitches on the other needle.

48th row—Slip 1, pearl 12, turn back, leaving 20 stitches—slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn back; † slip 1, pearl 14—that is, 2 stitches on those left unworked, turn back—slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 11, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn back. Repeat from † 9 times more, always knitting or pearling 2 stitches more each time, so as every row to use two of the stitches left; when finished, there will be 33 stitches.

The Instep—Take another needle and raise 26 stitches from the selvedge formed by the rows of the left side of the Heel; then with a second needle work across the Instep (pearling 3 and knitting 3 as before, 10 times); then pearl 3; and with a third needle raise 26 stitches from the right selvedge of the Heel; and with a fourth needle knit the 33 stitches of the Heel. It will now be 148 stitches round.

1st round—Work across the instep. (Pearl 3 and knit 3, alternately as before, 10 times) then pearl 3; knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 79 plain; then knit 2 together, knit 1 plain.

2nd round—(Pearl 3 and knit 3, 10 times), pearl 3, knit the rest of the round all plain.

Repeat these two rounds 16 times more, knitting two stitches less at the stitches marked in italics each time. Then knit four inches the same as the 2nd round.

The Toe—1st round—Knit 2 together, knit 49 plain, knit 2 together, knit 4 plain. Repeat once more to finish the round. 2nd round—All plain.

Repeat the last 2 rounds, knitting 2 plain less each time instead of 49, until it is reduced to a few stitches. Then double the work, and knitting a stitch off each needle together, cast them off.

{21}

## ZOUAVE VESTE.

IN TRICOT ECOSSAIS, WITH TATTING EDGE.—See Frontispiece.

Materials—6 ounces of Crimson, Mauve, Grey, or Violet 4-ply fleecy, and Walker’s Tricot Needle No. 4 Bell gauge. For the Border 2 skeins of White Berlin Wool, a large Shuttle, and round mesh No. 1 Bell gauge.

The Back.

Commence with 7 chain and work as directed for the Back of the Crossover, page 9, ending with the 4 plain rows.

To Shape the Right Side.

1st row—Continue working from the last row of the back. Raise 28 loops, leaving the rest unworked for the other side. Work Back on these 28 loops.

2nd row—Raise all the loops of the last row to within 3 loops of the end, then to decrease take 2 loops together as one stitch, raise the last loop. Work back.

3rd row—Same as 2nd row.

4th row—Raise all the loops of the last row. Work back to within 4 loops, of the end, keep the 5th loop on the needle, and instead of finishing the row, put the needle into the next stitch to the left, and raise a loop so as to commence the next row.

5th row—Continue raising all the stitches of the last row. Work back all the loops on the needle.

6th row—Raise 4 loops, but in raising the 5th loop, put the needle into the next stitch of the lower row, which is under the one ordinarily used. This will prevent any space showing where the last row was turned. Raise the rest of the row as usual. Work back.

7th row—Raise all the loops without shaping. Work back.

Repeat the 4th, 5th, 6th, and 7th rows, 5 times more.

28th row—Raise a loop, increase a loop, then raise all the loops to within 4 loops of the end, decrease by taking 2 loops together, and raise the last two loops. Work back.

{22}

29th row—Raise all the loops to within 4 of the end, then decrease, and raise the last two loops. Work back.

Repeat the last two rows 10 times more. Then work 5 rows, leaving 2 loops unworked at the right end of the needle each time; which finishes the right side. The last row is to be attached to the right side of the first 10 rows of the back after the Border is worked.

The Left Side.

1st row—Commence at the stitches of the Back, and, leaving 9 stitches for the neck, raise the rest of the row—in all 28 loops. Work back.

2nd and 3rd rows—Work as usual, decreasing at the beginning of each row.

4th row—Raise all the loops to within 4 stitches of the end of the last row, and, leaving them unfinished. Work back.

5th row—Raise all the loops of the last row, then raise the 4 loops of the lower row. Work back.

6th and 7th rows—Work the rows without shaping.

Repeat as the 4th, 5th, 6th, and 7th rows, 5 times more.

28th row—Raise a loop, then decrease. Raise all the loops to within 2 of the end. Increase a loop, and raise the 2 loops. Work back.

29th row—Raise a loop, decrease, then raise all the loops to the end.

Repeat the last two rows 10 times more; then work 5 rows, leaving 2 stitches at the left side of each row, and fasten off. After the Border is worked, sew it to the left side of the back.

The Sash.

Work as the Lappets of the Hood, page 4, commencing with the same color as the Veste, and using the white wool for the Edge.

Make the Scallop Trimming with the white wool, and for the Joining use the same color as the Veste.

The Border.

For the Outside, commence with the white wool at the last stitch of the left side of the Veste,{23} so as to work on the selvedge formed by the end of the rows, putting the needle sufficiently deep in the work to correspond with the edge row of the Sash: work 3 plain crochet stitches; * then 1 treble in the next stitch, 1 chain, 1 treble, 1 chain, and 1 treble again; these 3 treble stitches are all to be worked in the same stitch of the Veste, then work 7 plain; and repeat again from *, continuing the same all round to the opposite end at the right side of the Veste. As the 3 treble stitches should come at the centre of the back, it will be necessary to increase in rounding the point.

Make sufficient of the Scallop Trimming to go along this row, and join it the same as the Sash. For the inner Border, commence at the last stitch of the right side of the Veste, and work as the outer border. The last row of each of the sides is then to be sewn to the back under the Border, and the Sash ends attached on the wrong side. The Veste should be fastened with buttons down the front.

## KNITTED MUFFATEE.

FOR A GENTLEMAN.

Materials—1 ounce of White and 6 skeins of colored Single Berlin Wool; pair of Walker’s knitting pins No. 12 Bell gauge. See page 13.

Commence with the Colored wool, and cast on 48 stitches.

1st row—Slip 1, knit 1, then (pearl 2 stitches and knit 2 alternately to the end).

Knit 5 rows more the same.

Join on the white, and knit 6 rows. Then 3 rows of the colored.

For the Centre, knit 36 rows of white—then 3 rows of coloured—6 rows of white, and 6 rows of coloured.

For the Lining, knit 60 rows of white. Cast off. Sew the sides together, then double the cuff and sew the first and last rows together.

{24}

## ROUND SHETLAND VEIL.

KNITTING.

Materials—One ounce of Shetland Wool and a pair of Knitting Pins No. 14 Bell gauge.

The Centre.—Cast on 49 stitches loosely with two pins.

1st row—Make 1, knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 3 plain, make 1, knit 3 all together. Repeat from * to the last 5 stitches, then make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 plain.

2nd row—Make 1, knit 2 together, * make 1, 2 together, knit 1, 2 together, make 1, knit 1; repeat from *, and at the end knit 2 plain instead of 1.

3rd row—Make 1, knit 2 plain; * make 1, 2 together, make 1, 3 together, make 1, knit 1. Repeat from * to within 5 stitches of the end, then make 1, knit only 2 together, make 1 and knit 3 plain.

4th row—Make 1, 2 together; * make 1, knit 1, make 1, 2 together, knit 1, 2 together. Repeat from * to the last 3 stitches, then make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 plain.

The work will now be increased 6 stitches. Commence again at the 1st row and repeat these four rows until it is the required size; then knit three rows plain and cast off.

Make sufficient of the Diamond Border to edge it.

Diamond Edging.

Commence by casting on 12 stitches.

1st row—Make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit the rest plain. The 3rd, 5th, 7th, 9th, 11th, 13th, and 15th rows are all worked as the 1st row, and are therefore not given.

2nd row—Make 1, knit 3, make 1, 2 together, knit 4, make 1, 2 together, knit 1.

4th row—Make 1, knit 5, make 1, 2 together, knit 3, make 1, 2 together, knit 1.

6th row—Make 1, knit 1, 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, 2 together, make 1, 2 together, knit 2, make 1, 2 together, knit 1.

8th row—Make 1, knit 1, 2 together, make 1, knit 3 (make 1, 2 together and knit 1, three times).

{25}

10th row—Make 1, knit 3 together, knit 1, make 1, 3 together, make 1 knit 1, 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, 2 together, knit 1.

12th row—Make 1, knit 3 together, knit 1, (2 together twice), make 1, knit 4, make 1, 2 together, knit 1.

14th row—Make 1, knit 3 together, then 2 together, make 1, knit 5, make 1, 2 together, knit 1.

16th row—Make 1, 3 together, make 1, knit 6, make 1, 2 together, knit 1. Commence again at the 1st row. When sufficient is made it is to be sewn to the Veil.

{26}

## THE “EMPIRE” PETTICOAT.

TRICOT ECOSSAIS.—See Frontispiece.

Materials—1lb. of Scarlet or Mauve 4-ply Fleecy; also 2 ounces of Black and 1 ounce of White Wool. Walker’s Tricot Needle No. 5 Bell gauge.

First Stripe.

Commence with the Scarlet Wool, and make a chain of 33 stitches.

Work 2 rows of Tricot Ecossais as described at page 28, then join on the Black Wool to finish the last stitch.

3rd row—Black—Raise the 1st loop, then increase a loop, raise 13 loops; then decrease by taking 3 loops on the needle and working as one stitch. Raise 13 loops, increase again, and raise the two last loops. Work back. All the rows are worked in this manner, that is, increasing at the beginning and end, and decreasing in the centre.

4th row—Work as the last row.

Then with the White Wool work a row as the last.

Black 2 rows.

Scarlet 10 rows.

18th row—Raise the 1st loop and increase as before. Raise 11 loops, then decrease by taking 2 loops together; decrease again, taking 3 loops together as usual; then decrease a third time, taking 2 together. Raise 11 loops. Increase and raise 2 loops. There will now be only 31 loops. Work back.

Work 10 rows more as the 3rd row, but raising 12 loops instead of 13 on each side of the centre decreased stitches.

29th row—Work as the 18th row, but raising 10 loops instead of 11 loops on each side the decreased stitches.

{27}

Continue working 10 rows as the 3rd row, and then a row decreasing 3 times in the same manner as the 18th row, until the work is reduced to 23 stitches, when it will be about 30 inches in length.

As the number of stitches decreases each time the 18th row is worked, a less number of stitches must be raised on each side of the centre.

To finish the Stripe work 3 rows, decreasing in the centre and leaving 2 stitches unworked at each side; then work back to the right side, and end with a row of single crochet.

For an ordinary sized Petticoat 10 stripes will be required. The last stripes should not be joined to the top.

The Edge—With the Black Wool commence at the top of the left side of a Stripe, and work down the selvedge a row of plain Crochet, putting the needle into the open spaces formed by the increased stitches. This row should be worked loosely. Continue this row across the foundation, and up the right side of the Stripe. Work the other Stripes the same.

The Joining Row—With the White Wool commence at the black stitch even with the white row of the stripe; work a single stitch on the stripe. Take a second stripe, put the needle into the corresponding stitch of it, work another single stitch. Continue working a single stitch alternately on each stripe, until they are joined; the needle should be put in both edges of the black row. The first four rows of the stripes are to be sewn together with Scarlet and Black Wool.

The Border—With the White Wool commence at the black row of the foundation, and work a row of 1 chain, miss 1 and 1 plain; putting the needle in the same scarlet stitches as the black row, so as to cover the alternate stitches of it. Repeat all round.

With the Scarlet Wool work 3 chain, miss 1 and 1 plain in each chain stitch of the white row.

{28}

## TRICOT ECOSSAIS.

A chain row is always made for the foundation of the work, the same as in Crochet, and after the number of chain stitches are made, as given in each direction, the last loop is to be kept on the needle.

Section.

1st row—still keeping the loop on the needle—miss the 1st chain stitch, put the needle into the next chain stitch, take up the wool on the needle and draw it through in a loop; * keep the two loops on the needle, put the needle into the next chain stitch and repeat from * to the end of the chain. This is termed “raising” loops or stitches, and there should be as many loops on the needle as the foundation chain.

To “Work back”—Take up the wool on the needle and bring it through the last loop on it, * then take up the wool again and bring it through the two next loops, as shown at the left side of the Section. Repeat from * to the end.

In raising the loops for the 2nd row the needle is to be put into the upright loops of the previous row, as shown in the two first loops at the right side of the section.

To “Increase”—The third loop on the needle is an increased stitch, which is made by putting the needle between two upright loops and bringing the wool through as usual.

In counting the loops always reckon the number on the needle, including the one at the edge.

To insure correctness in the size of the Needles used in Mdlle. Riego’s publications, a drawing of the Gauge by which they are numbered, is now given. All Knitting Needles are measured in the circle close to the numbers. Tricot Needles the same, gauging by the stem.

H. WALKER,

Manufacturer to the Queen of Pins, Fish Hooks, Hooks & Eyes, Hair Pins, Thimbles, &c.

Warehouse—GRESHAM STREET, LONDON, E.C.

Manufactory—ALCESTER.

Bell Gauge

H. Walker’s Needles have long enjoyed great popularity with those who value really good Needles. They have been greatly altered by Patented Improvements of a most important character.

H. Walker’s Patent Penelope Crochets have had so many imitations, it is necessary to repeat the request that all who wish for the true Needle will see that the word “Penelope” is on the handle.

The new Patent Uncotopic Handles to the Penelope Needles have the word “Uncotopic” on each, and persons who would avoid disappointment will please to observe these trade marks. The Uncotopic Handle keeps the Needle at all times in the true position for work, and is invaluable alike to a beginner, or to an accomplished worker.

The following is from “The Engineer,” of May 4, 1859:—“Difficult as it may appear to entirely change the structure of so small an article, the figures above show what may be done even with the eye of a Needle.

“Fig. 1. A, is a ridge or slightly raised part before the eye; B, the eye; C, a groove beyond the eye into which the thread falls.

“Fig. 2 is a side view of the part A, B, C, showing the thread recessed as in sewing, when the usual pressure of the thimble drives the Needle with its thread at once through the cloth, affording relief of no ordinary character to the tailor or seampstress, and saving much of their time. We have submitted these Needles to a good judge of such articles, who has declared them superior to all others, not only as above stated, but particularly also with relation to facility of threading.”

ROWLANDS’ MACASSAR OIL,

IS A DELIGHTFULLY FRAGRANT AND TRANSPARENT PREPARATION FOR THE HAIR.

And, as an invigorator and beautifier, beyond all precedent. It bestows a permanent gloss, with a silky softness, and a strong tendency to curl, and is the only known specific capable of effectually sustaining the Hair in decorative charm during the exercise of dancing, or the relaxing effects of crowded rooms. Prices 3s. 6d.; 7s. 10s. 6d.; equal to four small, and double that size, 21s. per bottle.

ROWLANDS’ KALYDOR,

FOR THE SKIN AND COMPLEXION.

A balmy, odoriferous, creamy Liquid, as equally celebrated for safety in application as

UNEQUALLED FOR ITS RARE AND INESTIMABLE QUALITIES.

The radiant bloom it imparts to the cheek, the softness and delicacy which it induces of the hands and arms, its capability of soothing irritation, and removing cutaneous defects, discolourations, and all unsightly appearances render it

INDISPENSABLE TO EVERY TOILET.

Price 4s. 6d. and 8s. 8d. per bottle.

ROWLANDS’ ODONTO,

OR PEARL DENTIFRICE.

A White Powder, compounded of the choicest and most recherché ingredients of the Oriental Herbal, and of inestimable value in
PRESERVING AND IMPARTING
A PEARL-LIKE WHITENESS TO THE TEETH;
STRENGTHENING THE GUMS; AND IN GIVING A PLEASING FRAGRANCE TO THE BREATH.

Price 2s. 9d. per box.

Sold at 20, Hatton Garden, London, and by Chemists and Perfumers.

☞ Ask for “ROWLANDS’” articles.

MANUFACTURE THE FOLLOWING:—

- Superior Six Cord Crochet Cotton, on Spools and in Skeins, for Sewing, Knitting, and Crochet Work.
- Superior Six Cord Sewings, on Spools, soft finish, for Sewing Machines, &c.
- Tatting Cotton, on Spools.
- Patent Glace Thread, in White, Black, and Colors, on Spools and Cards.
- Two and Three Cord Sewings, on Spools, soft finish.
- Sewings in Balls.
- Embroidering, Knitting, Mending, Cotton Cords, and Small Cords.

1862.

London Exhibition Prize Medal, Awarded “for very Strong & most superior Thread.”

1867.

Paris Universal Exhibition Gold Medal.

## NOTICE.

Mlle. Riego de la Branchardiere begs most gratefully to thank her correspondents for the kind letters she has received during sorrow and illness, and trusts that any omissions on her part will be excused now the cause is known.

She has also to inform them that for the future all her registered and copyright designs will be signed with her surname in full, she having hitherto used only the first as more convenient for business; but as she has reason to believe that there has been a recent infringement and use of her name, it has become advisable for her to vary her signature, otherwise she cannot so readily detect fraud.

Mlle. Riego de la Branchardiere must caution ladies against purchasing any of her designs without the whole signature, as she is informed by law it is against the purchaser only she must proceed in case it should be necessary to assert her rights.

Mlle. Riego’s ONLY Establishment is at 2, Old Quebec Street, London.

| s. | d.
The Complete Tatting Book | 1 | 0
The Instruction Tatting Book | 1 | 0
The Exhibition Tatting Book | 1 | 0
The Royal Tatting Book | 1 | 0
The Lace Tatting Book | 1 | 0
The Etoile Tatting Book | 1 | 0
The Pearl Tatting Book | 1 | 0
The 6th Series Crochet Book | 1 | 0
The Simple Tatting Book | 0 | 6
The 18th Series Crochet Book | 1 | 0
The 10th and 17th Series | 1 | 6
The Useful Knitting Book | 1 | 0
Winter Book for 1862 | 1 | 0
“Melange de Laine” | 1 | 0
“Tricot Ecossais” | 1 | 0
The Andalusian Knitting and Netting | 1 | 0
Coloured Antimacassars | 1 | 0
Tatting Edgings | 0 | 6
La Mode Winter | 0 | 6
The Book of Siberian Wool | 0 | 6
The Child’s Winter Knitting | 0 | 6

Entered at Stationers’ Hall.]

[The Author reserves the right of Translation.

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