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Title: Cuming's tour to the western country (1807-1809)

Author: Fortescue Cuming

Editor: Reuben Gold Thwaites

Release date: November 24, 2024 [eBook #74792]

Language: English

Original publication: Cleveland, OH: The Arthur H. Clark Company

Credits: Carla Foust, Greg Bergquist and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)


*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CUMING'S TOUR TO THE WESTERN COUNTRY (1807-1809) ***





  Early Western Travels

  1748-1846

  Volume IV




  Early Western Travels

  1748-1846

  A Series of Annotated Reprints of some of the best
  and rarest contemporary volumes of travel, descriptive
  of the Aborigines and Social and
  Economic Conditions in the Middle
  and Far West, during the Period
  of Early American Settlement

  Edited with Notes, Introductions, Index, etc., by

  Reuben Gold Thwaites, LL.D.

  Editor of “The Jesuit Relations and Allied Documents,” “Wisconsin
  Historical Collections,” “Chronicles of Border Warfare,”
  “Hennepin’s New Discovery,” etc.

  Volume IV

  Cuming’s Tour to the Western Country (1807-1809)

  [Illustration]

  Cleveland, Ohio
  The Arthur H. Clark Company
  1904




  COPYRIGHT 1904, BY
  THE ARTHUR H. CLARK COMPANY

  ALL RIGHTS RESERVED


  The Lakeside Press

  R. R. DONNELLEY & SONS COMPANY
  CHICAGO




CONTENTS OF VOLUME IV

  Preface. _The Editor_                                              7

  SKETCHES OF A TOUR TO THE WESTERN COUNTRY, through the
  States of Ohio and Kentucky; a Voyage down the Ohio and
  Mississippi Rivers, and a Trip through the Mississippi
  Territory, and part of West Florida. Commenced at
  Philadelphia in the Winter of 1807, and concluded in 1809.
  _Fortescue Cuming_.

  Copyright notice                                                  18
  Author’s Table of Contents                                        19
  Author’s Preface                                                  23
  Text                                                              25




ILLUSTRATION TO VOLUME IV

  FACSIMILE OF ORIGINAL TITLE-PAGE                                  17




PREFACE TO VOLUME IV


We devote the fourth volume of our series of Western Travels to the
reprint of Fortescue Cuming’s _Sketches of a Tour to the Western
Country_--the tour having been made in 1807-1809, the publication
itself issuing from a Pittsburg press in 1810.

Of Cuming himself, we have no information save such as is gleaned
from his book. He appears to have been an Englishman of culture and
refinement, who had travelled extensively in other lands--notably the
West Indies, France, Switzerland, and Italy. It is certain that he
journeyed to good purpose, with an intelligent, open mind, free from
local prejudices, and with trained habits of observation. Cuming was
what one may call a good traveller--he endured the inconveniences,
annoyances, and vicissitudes of the road, especially in a new and rough
country, with equanimity and philosophic patience, deliberately making
the best of each day’s happenings, thus proving himself an experienced
and agreeable man of the world.

The journeys narrated were taken during two succeeding years. The
first, in January, 1807, was a pedestrian tour from Philadelphia to
Pittsburg. Arriving in the latter city on the second of February,
after twenty-seven days upon the road, the remainder of the winter,
the spring, and the early summer were passed at Pittsburg. On
the eighteenth of July following, our traveller took boat from
Pittsburg, and made his way down the Ohio to the Kentucky entrepôt
at Maysville--where he arrived the thirtieth of the month. Mounting
a horse, he made a brief trip through Kentucky as far as Lexington
and Frankfort, returning to Maysville on the fifth of August. The
following day, he crossed the Ohio, and after examining lands in the
vicinity, proceeded partly on foot, partly by stage and saddle, over
the newly-opened state road of Ohio, through Chillicothe, Lancaster,
and Zanesville to Wheeling; thence back to Pittsburg, where he arrived
the evening of August 21.

The following year (1808), Cuming begins his narrative at the point on
the Ohio where he had left the river the previous year--at Maysville,
whence he embarked on the seventh of May for Mississippi Territory.
With the same fulness of detail and accurate notation that characterize
his former narrative, Cuming describes the voyage down the Ohio and the
Mississippi until his arrival at Bayou Pierre on the sixth of June,
after a month afloat.

Starting from Bruinsbury, at the mouth of Bayou Pierre, August 22,
he took a horseback trip through the settlements of Mississippi
Territory lying along the river and some distance inland on its
tributaries--Cole’s Creek, St. Catharine’s Bayou, the Homochito,
etc.--penetrating the then Spanish territory of West Florida as far as
Baton Rouge, and returning by a similar route to Bruinsbury, where he
arrived the fifteenth of September.

At this point Cuming’s tour is concluded. In order to give completeness
to the work, however, the first editor added the journal of a voyage
taken in 1799 “by a gentleman of accurate observation, a passenger in a
New Orleans boat.” From just above Bayou Pierre, this anonymous author
departed on the ninth of February for New Orleans, where he arrived on
the twenty-third of the same month. Embarking therefrom March 12, he
reached Philadelphia after a month’s voyage via Havana and the Atlantic
shore. His narrative is far less effective than that of Cuming.

Like a well bred man of affairs, Cuming never intrudes his private
business upon our attention; but incidentally we learn that his
first Western journey from Pittsburg was undertaken at least in part
to observe some lands in Ohio, which he had previously purchased
in Europe, and with whose situation and location he was agreeably
surprised. The journey to Mississippi appears to have been undertaken
with a view to making his home in that territory. The place and date
signed to the preface--“Mississippi territory, 20th Oct. 1809”--would
indicate that he had decided upon remaining where he had found the
social life so much to his taste, and some of his former friends and
acquaintances had settled.

It is the natural impulse of almost every traveller to record the
events of a somewhat unusual tour. Cuming wished, also, to afford
information to Europeans and Eastern men of “a country, in its
infancy, which from its rapid improvement in a very few years, will
form a wonderful contrast to its present state.” His attitude was
sympathetic towards the new and raw regions through which he travelled;
nevertheless this fact does not appear to have unduly affected his
purpose of giving an accurate picture of what he saw. He does not
slur over the disadvantages, nor extenuate any of the crudeness or
vulgarity; but at the same time portrays the possibilities of the new
land, its remarkable growth, its opportunities for development, and the
vigor and enterprise of its inhabitants.

In plain, dispassionate style, he has given us a picture of American
life in the West, at the beginning of the nineteenth century, that
for clear-cut outlines and fidelity of presentation has the effect
of a series of photographic representations. In this consists the
value of the book for students of American history. We miss entirely
those evidences of amused tolerance and superficial criticism that
characterize so many English books of his day, recounting travels in
the United States--a state of mind sometimes developing into strong
prejudice and evident distaste, such as made Dickens’s _American Notes_
a caricature of conditions in the new country.

It is essentially a backwoods life to which Cuming introduces us,
although not in the first stages of its struggle for existence.
Indian alarms are a thing of the past, a large percentage of the land
is cleared, the people have better dwellings than in the log-cabin
days, there is now rude abundance and plenty, and the beginnings of
educational opportunities, social intercourse, and the amenities of
civilized life. The pioneers themselves--Indian fighters and skilful
hunters--have become rare. Here and there Cuming encounters a former
Indian captive, like Andrew Ellison, or a scout and ranger, like Peter
Neiswonger; but as a rule it is the second generation whom he meets,
or members of the second tide of emigrants that came in after the
Revolution--officers in the army, younger sons of the better classes,
who by energy and capacity bettered their fortunes in the West, built
for themselves good homes, laid out towns, developed orchards, farms,
and plantations, and were living in that atmosphere of prosperity which
heralded the ultimate fortunes of the new land.

Nevertheless, the inheritances of the older days of struggle and
primitive society are still in evidence--the lack of facilities at
the small country inns, the coarseness and rudeness of the manner of
living, the heavy drinking and boisterous amusements of the young, the
fighting, the incivility to travellers, the boorishness of manners.
All these are relics of the early days when the rough struggle with
the wilderness developed the cruder rather than the finer virtues of
men. On the other hand, as we have already pointed out, Cuming shows
us the hopeful elements of this new land: not only its wonderful
material prosperity, its democratic spirit and sense of fairness, but
its adaptability, its hospitality for new ideas, the beginnings of the
fine art of good living, and eagerness to promote schools, churches,
and the organizations for the higher life.

Some of the particular features recorded by Cuming, that are now
obsolete, are the use of lotteries for raising money for public
purposes, and the prevalence of highway robbery in the unsettled parts
of the country. The restlessness of the population is also worthy of
note--the long journeys for trivial purposes, the abandoned settlements
in Kentucky and Illinois.

Especially valuable for purposes of comparison, is Cuming’s accurate
account of the towns through which he passed--their size and
appearance, number and kind of manufactures, business methods and
interests. Characteristic of the period also, is the enterprise of
the inhabitants--townsites laid out at every available position,
speculation in lands, and large confidence in the future of the region.
In that confidence Cuming appears fully to have shared. Already, he
tells us, food-stuffs were being exported to Europe, the growth of the
cotton industry promised large returns, the richness of the soil and
the resources and fertility of the land fostered high hopes.

In regard to social conditions, our author writes at a time when the
formerly uniform and homogeneous character of the Western population
was beginning to break up, especially in the slave states and
territories, and when the professional classes and large land-owners
were taking a leading position in affairs. He notes particularly the
importance and assumption of leadership on the part of the lawyers.
The virulent excitement of political life is one of the features of
his observations that his first editor attempted to excuse and modify.
It was doubtless true that the incidents attendant upon the arrest and
trial of Burr had especially aroused the section through which Cuming
passed. It is probable, however, that his portrayal of the animosity
of political divisions is substantially accurate; and that not only did
“politics run high” at the tavern and political club, but it controlled
the social coterie, and in early American society adjusted lines of
relationship more strictly than is evident to-day.

The areas which Cuming visited were those, with the exception of
Tennessee, in which were to be found the most characteristic features
of Western life. Western Pennsylvania and Northwestern Virginia
comprised a homogeneous population, living under similar conditions.
Closely allied was Kentucky, although it was beginning to be modified
by settled conditions, the prosperity of low, rich pasture lands,
and its distance from Eastern markets. In Ohio, however, Cuming
encountered the New England element--but well mixed with Southerners
on the Virginia bounty lands, French of the Gallipolis settlement,
and New Jersey and Middle States emigration to the region of the
Miamis. His narrative, continued down the Ohio, shows the scarcity of
population in Indiana and Illinois, and in Kentucky below Louisville;
also the frontier character of that region as far down the Mississippi
as the Natchez district. Here again, Cuming meets with an area of
settlement begun under the British rule of West Florida, and continued
under Spanish authority, until a few years before his voyage. In
Mississippi, he portrays to us the beginnings of plantation life--the
large estates, with gangs of negroes; the hospitality, cultivation, and
charm of the upper classes, jostled by the rude waifs and strays that
the river traffic wafted to their landings. In spite of diversities,
the characteristics of Western life had much sameness--the mingling
of the population, the shifting of people from all sections, and the
dependence upon the rivers as the great arteries of Western commerce,
with its ultimate outlet by way of the Mississippi and New Orleans.

Cuming’s work was not immediately published after writing. The
manuscript passed into the possession of Zadok Cramer, a Pittsburg
printer who was particularly interested in Ohio and Mississippi
navigation, for which he published a technical guide called _The
Navigator_, that ran through numerous editions. Cramer annotated
Cuming’s manuscript, adding thereto a considerable appendix of
heterogeneous matter--collected, as he says in his advertisement,
“from various sources while the press was going on with the work, and
frequently was I hurried by the compositors to furnish copy from hour
to hour.” This material, much of it irrelevant and reprinted from
other works, the present Editor has thought best to omit. It ranges
from a description of the bridge at Trenton to Pike’s tour through
Louisiana--embracing such diverse matter as “Of the character of the
Quakers,” “Sculptures of the American Aborigines,” and “Particulars of
John Law’s Mississippi Scheme.”

The hope of Cramer that a second edition would soon be called for, was
not fulfilled. Put forth in 1810, the book has never been reprinted
until the present edition, which it is believed will be welcomed by
students of American history.

As in former volumes of the series, Louise Phelps Kellogg, Ph.D., of
the Wisconsin Historical Library, has assisted in the preparation of
the notes. The Editor desires, also, to acknowledge his obligations
to Mrs. Frances C. Wordin, of Bridgeport, Connecticut, for valuable
information concerning her grandfather, Dr. John Cummins, of Bayou
Pierre, Mississippi.

                                          R. G. T.

MADISON, WIS., April, 1904.




CUMING’S SKETCHES OF A TOUR TO THE WESTERN COUNTRY--1807-1809.

Reprint of the original edition (Pittsburgh, 1810). The Appendix, being
composed of irrelevant matter, is herein omitted.




[Illustration:

  SKETCHES OF A TOUR

  TO THE WESTERN COUNTRY,

  THROUGH

  _THE STATES OF OHIO AND KENTUCKY_;

  A VOYAGE

  DOWN THE OHIO AND MISSISSIPPI RIVERS,

  AND A TRIP

  _THROUGH THE MISSISSIPPI TERRITORY, AND
  PART OF WEST FLORIDA_.

  COMMENCED AT PHILADELPHIA IN THE WINTER
  OF 1807, AND CONCLUDED IN 1809.


  BY F. CUMING.

  WITH NOTES AND AN APPENDIX,

  CONTAINING

  SOME INTERESTING FACTS, TOGETHER WITH

  _A NOTICE OF AN EXPEDITION THROUGH
  LOUISIANA_.


  _PITTSBURGH_,

 PRINTED & PUBLISHED BY CRAMER, SPEAR & EICHBAUM, FRANKLIN HEAD
    BOOKSTORE, IN MARKET, BETWEEN FRONT & SECOND STREETS--1810.
]




DISTRICT OF PENNSYLVANIA, to wit:


Be it remembered, That on the first day of May, in the thirty-fourth
year of the Independence of the United States of America, A.D. 1810,
Zadok Cramer, of the said district, hath deposited in this office, the
title of a book, the right whereof he claims as proprietor, in the
words following, to wit:

_Sketches of a Tour to the Western Country, through the States of Ohio
and Kentucky; a Voyage down the Ohio and Mississippi rivers, and a Trip
through the Mississippi territory, and part of West Florida. Commenced
at Philadelphia in the winter of 1807, and concluded in 1809. By F.
Cuming. With Notes and an Appendix, containing some interesting Facts,
together with a notice of an Expedition through Louisiana._

In conformity to an act of the congress of the United States,
intituled, “An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the
copies of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of
such copies during the times therein mentioned.” And also to the act,
entitled “An act supplementary to an act, entitled an act for the
encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and
books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies during the time
therein mentioned, and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of
designing, engraving, and etching historical and other prints.”

                                          D. CALDWELL, _clerk of
                                          the district of Pennsylvania_.




{iii} CONTENTS

OF EACH CHAPTER IN PART


  CHAPTER I

  Commencement of journey--Schuylkill bridge--Schuylkill
     river--Downingstown--Brandywine creek--Pequea creek--New
     Holland--Conestoga creek and bridge--Lancaster              25


  CHAP. II

  Elizabethtown--Susquehannah river--Harrisburgh                 33


  CHAP. III

  Conestoga massacre--Carlisle and Dickinson college             42


  CHAP. IV

  Shippensburgh--Strasburgh--Horse valley                        49


  CHAP. V

  Fannetsburgh--Juniata--Bloody run--Bedford                     55


  CHAP. VI

  Allegheny mountains--Somerset--A murder                        61


  CHAP. VII

  Laurel and Chesnut hills--Greensburgh--Pittsburgh              70


  CHAP. VIII

  Pittsburgh--Lawyers--Clergymen                                 76


  CHAP. IX

  Allegheny, Monongahela and Ohio rivers                         87


  CHAP. X

  Georgetown--Little Beaver creek                               100


  CHAP. XI

  Steubenville--Charlestown                                     106


  CHAP. XII

  Warren--Wheeling--Canton                                      111


  CHAP. XIII

  Little and Big Grave creeks--Monuments                        114


  CHAP. XIV

  Muskingum--Marietta--Fortifications                           120


  CHAP. XV

  Little Kenhawa--Blennerhasset’s island                        126


  CHAP. XVI

  Little and Big Hockhocking--Belleville                        130


  CHAP. XVII

  Le Tart’s falls--Graham’s station                             135


  CHAP. XVIII

  Point Pleasant--Battle--Dunmore’s campaign                    140


  {iv} CHAP. XIX

  Galliopolis--Green’s bottom--Hanging rock                     147


  CHAP. XX

  Big Guiandot--Great Sandy--Snakes                             153


  CHAP. XXI

  French Grant--Little Sciota--Portsmouth                       156


  CHAP. XXII

  Sciota--Alexandria--Salt-works                                161


  CHAP. XXIII

  Brush creek--Manchester--Maysville                            165


  CHAP. XXIV

  Washington, K.--May’s and Blue licks--Salt furnaces           170


  CHAP. XXV

  Nicholasville--Millersburgh--Massacre                         176


  CHAP. XXVI

  Lexington                                                     181


  CHAP. XXVII

  Leesburgh--Frankfort                                          189


  CHAP. XXVIII

  Paris--Frank Bird--Hospitality                                196


  CHAP. XXIX

  Commence a journey from Maysville through the state of Ohio
     to Pittsburgh                                              201


  CHAP. XXX

  Bainbridge--Arrival at Chilicothe                             208


  CHAP. XXXI

  The Sciota--Chilicothe--Monuments                             215


  CHAP. XXXII

  Hockhocking--New Lancaster--Zanesville                        219


  CHAP. XXXIII

  Wills’s creek--Cambridge--Beymer’s                            226


  CHAP. XXXIV

  St. Clairsville--Indian Wheeling                              230


  CHAP. XXXV

  Little Wheeling--Alexandria or Hardscramble                   234


  CHAP. XXXVI

  Washington, Penn.--Canonsburgh--Pittsburgh                    238


  CHAP. XXXVII

  Pittsburgh--Panorama around it                                242


  CHAP. XXXVIII

  Descends the Ohio again--Columbia, Newport, Cincinnati,
     Port Williams, Louisville, falls                           255


  {v} CHAP. XXXIX

  Blue river--Horse machinery boat                              261


  CHAP. XL

  Green river--Henderson--Cotton machine                        265


  CHAP. XLI

  Wabash river, Shawanee town, Rocking cave                     269


  CHAP. XLII

  Cumberland river, Tennessee, Fort Massac                      273


  CHAP. XLIII

  Mississippi, New Madrid, Little Prairie                       279


  CHAP. XLIV

  Indian warriours, their manners and customs                   284


  CHAP. XLV

  Fort Pike, Chickasaw Indians, Fort Pickering                  289


  CHAP. XLVI

  Settlements of Arkansas and White river                       295


  CHAP. XLVII

  Grand lake, Anecdote of a Carolinean                          300


  CHAP. XLVIII

  Walnut Hills, Fort M’Henry, Bayou Pierre                      305


  CHAP. XLIX

  Commence a tour by land, Cole’s creek, Greenville             310


  CHAP. L

  Washington, Natchez, Mississippi territory                    318


  CHAP. LI

  Homochito, Fort Adams, Pinkneyville                           326


  CHAP. LII

  Enter West Florida, Thomson’s creek                           331


  CHAP. LIII

  Baton Rouge, Spanish governour, Mrs. O’Brien’s                339


  CHAP. LIV

  Remarks on the climate, soil, manners, face of the country,
     productions, &c.                                           347

  The description of the Mississippi continued from Bayou
     Pierre to New Orleans--Thence a sea voyage to
     Philadelphia, by another hand                              354




PREFACE


The writer of the following tour would not trouble the reader with
a Preface, did not some circumstances render it in a certain degree
necessary.

It might be asked why he had not commenced the tour with a particular
description of Philadelphia. His reasons for not doing so were, in the
first place, Philadelphia is a city so minutely described in every
modern geographical publication, that few readers are unacquainted
with its local situation between the rivers Delaware and Schuylkill,
its regularity of plan, its rapid progress, &c. Whereas the country
through which the author travelled has been very little treated of by
tourists, of course is little known to strangers; though an account
of its appearance, its natural properties, its improvements, and the
manners of its mixed population, perhaps merits a place on the shelves
of the literati, as much as the numerous tours and travels through
Europe, Asia and Africa with which they are loaded. Indeed, in one
point of view, such a book may be much more useful, as it may serve for
a record of the situation of a country, in its infancy, which from its
rapid improvement in a very few years, will form a wonderful contrast
to its present state, while the trans-Atlantick travellers have to
treat of countries either arrived at the highest state of improvement,
or of others buried in the gloom of ignorance and barbarity, and of
course both stationary, and therefore not affording any variety of
consequence, during the two last centuries, (in which time they have
been the theme of so many able pens) excepting the style of writing and
manner of description.

In the second place--It was the author’s wish to condense as much into
one cheap volume as he could make it contain, and had he entered into
minute descriptions of places the best known, he would [have] had so
much the less room for the original matter, with which he intended to
constitute the bulk of the work.

It was intended to have put the work to the press in the winter
of 1807, the year in which the tour commenced, but a series of
disappointments essayed by the author, has unavoidably postponed it,
and has given him an opportunity of adding to the original plan, some
account of the lower parts of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers, and the
countries washed by them, particularly the Mississippi territory, which
has become of great importance to the United States, and is not without
its value to Europe, from its immense supply of cotton to the European
manufacturers.

{viii} As the intention of the author was the increase of information,
he makes no apology for the plainness of his style, and he expects,
on that account, to be spared any criticism. Should however any
one think proper to bestow a leisure hour in the remarking of his
inaccuracies, or the incorrectness of his language, he can have no
possible objection, as criticism of that kind always tends to general
improvement.

                                          THE AUTHOR

Mississippi territory, 20th Oct. 1809.




SKETCHES OF A TOUR




CHAPTER I

 Commencement of journey--Schuylkill bridge--Schuylkill
    river--Downingstown--Brandywine creek--Pequea creek--New
    Holland--Conestoga creek and Bridge--Lancaster.


On 8th January 1807, I left Philadelphia on foot, accompanying a wagon
which carried my baggage. I preferred this mode of travelling for
several reasons. Not being pressed for time I wished to see as much
of the country as possible; the roads were in fine order, and I had
no incentive to make me desirous of reaching any point of my intended
journey before my baggage. With respect to expence, there was little
difference in my travelling in this manner, or on horseback, or in the
stage, had I been unincumbered with baggage; for the delay on the road,
awaiting the slow pace of a loaded wagon, which is not quite three
miles an hour, and not exceeding twenty-six miles on a winter’s day,
will occasion as great expence to a traveller in a distance exceeding
two such days’ journey, as the same distance performed otherwise in
less than half the time, including the charge of horse or stage hire.

The first object which struck me on the road, was the new bridge over
the Schuylkill which does honour to its inventor for its originality
of architecture, and its excellence of mechanism. There are two piers,
the westernmost of which is a work perhaps unexampled in hydraulick
architecture, from the depth to which it is sunk; the rock on which it
stands being forty-one feet nine inches below common {10} high tides.
Both piers were built within cofferdams: the design for the western
was furnished by William Weston, esq. of Gainsborough in England, a
celebrated hydraulick engineer. Eight hundred thousand feet of timber,
board measure, were employed in and about it. Mr. Samuel Robinson of
Philadelphia, executed the work of the piers under the directions of
a president and five directors, who also superintended the mason work
done by Mr. Thomas Vickers, on an uncommon plan, which has answered
the intention perfectly well. The walls of the abutments and wings are
perpendicular without buttresses, and supported by interior offsets.
The eastern abutment is founded on a rock, the western on piles. There
are near eight thousand tons of masonry in the western pier, many of
the stones in it, as well as in the eastern, weighing from three to
twelve tons. Several massive chains are worked in with the masonry,
stretched across the piers in various positions; and the exterior is
clamped and finished in the most substantial manner.

The frame of the superstructure was designed and erected by Mr. Timothy
Palmer of Newburyport in Massachusetts, combining in its principles,
that of ring posts and braces with a stone arch. The platform for
travelling rises only eight feet from a horizontal line. The foot ways
are five feet in width, elevated above the carriage ways, and neatly
protected by posts and chains.

The whole of the bridge is covered by a roof, and the sides closed
in, to preserve the timber from the decay occasioned by exposure to
the weather. The side covering is done in imitation of masonry by
sprinkling it with stone dust, while the painting was fresh: this is a
novel mode of ornamenting and protecting the surfaces of wooden work
exposed to weather, which from its goodness and cheapness will probably
be brought into general use. The work of the {11} roof and covering was
done by Mr. Owen Biddle, house carpenter in Philadelphia.

The bridge was six years in building, was finished in 1805, and cost
in work and materials two hundred and thirty-five thousand dollars.
The scite was purchased from the corporation of Philadelphia for forty
thousand dollars.

This is the only covered wooden bridge we know of, excepting one over
the Limmat in Switzerland, built by the same carpenter who erected
the so much celebrated bridge of Schauffhausen, since destroyed, the
model of which I have seen, and I think this of Schuylkill deserves the
preference both for simplicity and strength. It is 550 feet long, and
the abutments and wing walls are 750, making in all 1300 feet; the span
of the middle arch is 195 feet, and that of the other two 150 each; it
is 42 feet wide; the carriage way is 31 feet above the surface of the
river, and the lower part of the roof is 13 feet above the carriage
way; the depth of the water to the rock at the western pier is 42 feet,
and at the eastern 21 feet.--The amount of the toll, which is very
reasonable, was 14,600 dollars the first year after it was finished,
which must increase very much in a country so rapidly improving. The
proprietors are a company who have built commodious wharves on each
side of the river, both for protection to the abutments of the bridge,
and for the use of the city.[1]

{12} The Schuylkill is a fine river nearly two hundred yards broad
at the bridge. It rises in the Cushetunk mountains about a hundred
and twenty miles to the N. W. of Philadelphia. It is navigable for
flat boats from the populous town of Reading about fifty miles above
Philadelphia, but its navigation is impeded by falls about eight miles
above the city, and by others about five miles above it, to which
latter ones the tide flows, from its conflux with the Delaware four
miles below Philadelphia. It supplies the city with water, pumped by
steam[2] from a reservoir, with which {13} the river communicates by
a canal near the bridge, into a cistern, from whence it is conveyed
by pipes through the streets and to the houses, plugs being fixed
at convenient distances for supplying the fire engines, for which
there are too frequent use, from the quantity of timber still used in
building, and from the fuel, which is chiefly wood.

The banks of the Schuylkill being hilly, afford charming situations
for country houses, in which the wealthy citizens of Philadelphia find
a secure retreat from the unhealthy air of the town during the heats
of summer. A good house, a spacious green house, fine gardens and a
demesne formerly owned by the late Robert Morris, esq.[3] are a fine
termination to the view up the river from the bridge.

There is a turnpike road of sixty-six miles from Philadelphia to
Lancaster, which my wagonner left at Downingstown about half way,
keeping to the right along a new road, which is also intended for a
turnpike road to Harrisburgh, and which passes through New Holland,
where he had some goods to deliver. Downingstown is a village of
about fifty middling houses.[4] The east branch of Brandywine creek
crosses the road here, as the west branch does about eight miles
further.--These two branches unite twelve or fourteen miles below, and
fall into the Delaware near Wilmington, about twenty miles below their
junction. The Brandywine is noted for a battle fought on its banks near
its confluence with the Delaware, between the British army under Sir
William Howe and the American under General Washington, who endeavoured
to oppose the progress of the enemy to Philadelphia, from the head of
Chesapeak bay where they had landed. The conflict was obstinate, but
the British being in great force, the Americans {14} were obliged to
retreat, after heavy loss on both sides.

The Brandywine runs through a rich and well settled country, and
abounds with mills, where a vast quantity of flour is manufactured for
exportation.--Pequea creek which falls into the Susquehannah, crosses
the road about four miles from the west branch of Brandywine. Five
miles further accompanying my wagonner, I turned to the left from the
Harrisburgh turnpike road, and in six miles more came to New Holland,
which is a long straggling town of one hundred and fifty houses in one
street, from whence it is seven miles to Conestoga creek. From the hill
just above, I was struck with the romantick situation of a fine bridge
over the creek below, more particularly as I came upon it unexpectedly.
The creek is about eighty yards wide, tumbling its rapid current, over
an irregular rocky bottom and disappearing round the foot of a wooded
hill, almost as soon as seen. The man who built the bridge lives on the
opposite side. The toll not answering his expectations, he would have
been a great sufferer, had not the state taken it off his hands and
reimbursed his expences; since when, the toll has been taken off.--It
is five miles from this bridge to Lancaster.

The face of the country between Philadelphia and Lancaster is hilly,
and variegated with woods and cultivated farms. It is extremely well
inhabited and consists of almost every variety of soil, from sandy
and light, to a rich black mould, which last quality is observable
generally between New Holland and Lancaster, except on the heights on
each bank of the Conestoga. The first settlers of all this tract were
English, Irish, and German, but the latter have gradually purchased
from the others, and have got the best lands generally into their
possession. They {15} are frugal and industrious, are good farmers,
and consequently a wealthy people.

Lancaster is supposed to be the largest inland town in the United
States. It is in a healthy and pleasant situation, on the western
slope of a hill, and consists of two principal streets, compactly
built with brick and stone, and well paved and lighted, crossing each
other at right angles. There is a handsome and commodious court-house
of brick in the centre, which, in my opinion is injurious to the
beauty of the town, by obstructing the vista of the principal streets.
There are several other streets parallel to the principal ones the
whole containing about eight hundred houses. The houses for publick
worship are a German Lutheran, a German Calvinist, a Presbyterian,
an Episcopalian, a Moravian, a Quaker, and a Roman Catholick church,
amongst which the German Lutheran is the most conspicuous from its
size and handsome spire: it has also an organ.--There is a strong
jail built with stone, and a brick market house. What in my opinion
does most honour to the town is its poor house, which is delightfully
situated near Conestoga creek about a mile from the town on the right
of the turnpike road towards Philadelphia. It is a large and commodious
building, and is supported partly by the labour of those paupers who
are able to work, and partly by a fine farm, which is annexed to it.
There are several private manufacturies in Lancaster, amongst which are
three breweries and three tanyards, but it is principally noted for its
rifles, muskets, and pistols, the first of which are esteemed the best
made in the United States. The inhabitants are chiefly the descendants
of the first German settlers, and are a quiet, orderly people--They are
estimated at about four thousand five hundred.

This has been the seat of government of Pennsylvania since 1799, but
it is not rendered permanently {16} so by an act of the legislature,
which occasions attempts being made annually at every session of that
body to remove it.[5] The eastern members advocating Philadelphia
on account of its trade and population, and the western members
endeavouring to have it placed as near to the centre of the state
as possible, which they contend will also shortly be the centre of
population, from the rapid manner in which the country to the westward
of the Allegheny mountains is settling. I was present at a very
animated debate, on the subject in the house of representatives, during
which much good argument, mixed with several sprightly and keen flashes
of genuine wit, was used, but it all terminated, as it has hitherto
invariably done, in favour of Lancaster--Of many situations proposed,
Harrisburgh seemed to have the greatest number of advocates.

Notwithstanding Lancaster is so populous and the seat of government
besides, it is but a dull town with respect to society. The manners and
taste of the inhabitants are not yet sufficiently refined by education,
or intercourse with strangers, to make it a desirable situation for the
residence of a person who wishes to enjoy the otium cum dignitate. An
alteration in that respect will doubtless take place with the rising
generation, whose education, the easy circumstances of the present
inhabitants, enable to pay a proper attention to, particularly as
they seem desirous to balance their own deficiencies in literature
and the polite accomplishments, by their attention to their children
in those particulars. There is no theatre, no assemblies, no literary
societies, nor any other publick entertainment, except occasionally an
itinerant exhibition of wax-work, or a puppet-show: {17} but there are
taverns without number, at some of which I have been informed, private
gambling is very customary.

There are horse races here annually, which last a week on a course on
the common to the westward of the town, which like most other races
in this country, are for the mere purposes of jockeying horses, and
betting, and are not followed by balls and other social meetings of
both sexes, as at amusements of the same kind in Europe. Shooting with
the rifle, is a favourite amusement, at which they are very dexterous,
meeting at taverns at short distances from town, to shoot, sometimes
at a mark for wagers, and sometimes at turkeys provided by the tavern
keeper, at so much a shot, the turkey being the prize of the killer of
it--the distance is generally, one hundred yards, and always with a
single ball.


FOOTNOTES:

[1] For a statistical account of the Schuylkill permanent bridge, the
reader is referred to a new and valuable work, the “Memoirs of the
Philadelphia Agricultural Society,” vol. i, and to Biddle’s “Young
Carpenter’s Assistant.”

As a specimen of the difficulties, and uncommon perseverance of the
company in building the Schuylkill bridge, we give the following
instance: The British troops when at Philadelphia had formed a bridge
of boats over the Schuylkill, one of which had been accidentally sunk
in 1777, twenty-eight feet below common low water. It occupied a part
of the area of the western _coffer dam_, with one end projecting under
two of the piles of the inner row, and had nearly rendered the erection
abortive. It was first discovered on pumping out the dam, in 1802; and
was perfectly sound, after the lapse of 25 years. The iron work had not
the least appearance of rust, or the wood (which was common oak) of
decay. The taking this boat to pieces, the straining the dam, and the
leaks in consequence, were the chief causes of an extra expenditure, by
the company, of more than 4000 dollars, hardly and perilously disbursed
in pumping (which alone cost from 500 to 700 dollars weekly) and
other labour, during forty-one days and nights in the midst of a most
inclement winter. _Mem. Phila. Ag. Soc._--CRAMER.

[2] This water steam engine, otherwise called the waterworks, is a
work of great magnitude. It cost 150 thousand dollars, and is capable
of raising about 4,500,000 gallons of water in 24 hours, with which
the city is daily supplied through wooden pipes. The reservoir, into
which the water is thrown, is capable of holding 20,000 gallons, and
is of a sufficient height to supply the citizens with water in the
upper stories of their highest houses. The first stone of this building
was laid on the 2d May, 1799, and it was completed in 1801-2. The
works belong to the city, and the citizens pay a water tax equal to
the expence of keeping the engine in motion, which amounts to about
8,000 dollars annually. The building stands in the centre square, and
consequently spoils the view down Market street. The trees and houses
adjacent, look as black and gloomy as those in Pittsburgh, arising from
the smoke of the mineral coal burnt in the works.--CRAMER.

[3] This estate of Robert Morris, who died the year before Cuming’s
tour, was purchased in 1770, and had formed part of the manor of
Springetsbury. It is now within Fairmount Park. Morris, known as
the “financier of the American Revolution,” was an Englishman who,
emigrating to Pennsylvania in 1747, became a prominent merchant of
Philadelphia. After serving as a delegate to the Continental Congress,
and signing the Declaration of Independence, he was assigned the
difficult task of procuring funds for the war. To his support was due
the maintenance of an army in the field during the disastrous years
of 1776 and 1777; while his chief accomplishment was financing the
campaign that led to the battle of Yorktown. After retiring from the
superintendency of finance in 1784, Morris served in the Pennsylvania
legislature (1786), the Constitutional Convention (1787), and the
United States Senate (1789-95), declining the position of Secretary of
the Treasury in Washington’s cabinet. In later life his affairs became
involved, and he spent four years (1798-1802) in a debtor’s prison. See
Sumner, _Robert Morris_ (New York, 1892).--ED.

[4] Downingtown, Chester County, took its name from Thomas Downing, who
bought the location in 1739 and bequeathed it to his son. A mill had
been established on the Brandywine at this place as early as 1716, and
the town was indifferently called Milltown or Downingtown until finally
incorporated under the latter title in 1859.--ED.

[5] During the session of 1809-10 the legislature passed a law for the
removal of the seat of the state government to Harrisburgh in the year
1812, and appropriated the sum of $30,000 for the erection of publick
buildings in that place.--CRAMER.




CHAPTER II

 Indian bridges over Chickey creeks--Elizabethtown--Cheapness
    of living--Swatara creek and ferry--Middleton--Susquehannah
    river--Chambers’s ferry--Harrisburgh.


On Thursday 29th January I left Lancaster on foot, proceeding along the
Harrisburgh road, at a steady pace of about three miles and a half an
hour. The weather was remarkable fine, and the road in excellent order,
and what was remarkable for the season, a little dusty. About a mile
and a half from Lancaster, I past a turnpike toll gate, from a little
beyond which I got the last view of the steeples of that town, and
soon after I crossed a stone bridge over a branch of Conestoga creek.
The road continued {18} fine, and the country rich, laid out in large
farms, with good dwelling houses of brick and stone, and immense barns.
Though hill and dale, woods and cultivated farms, presented themselves
alternately yet there was nothing very striking in the scenery.

The road continued fine, nine miles, to a rivulet called Big Chickey,
which I crossed over on an Indian bridge, which is a high tree cut
down so as to fall across the stream from bank to bank, and then its
branches lopped off. The banks being high, and the bridge long and
narrow, my nerves were so discomposed when I reached the middle, that I
had like to have fallen off, but balancing and tottering, I at length
reached the end.

Two miles further I had to cross another Indian bridge over Little
Chickey creek, which I did boldly, without any difficulty; which is one
proof of the use of practice and experience.

The road now became very bad, the turnpike intended from Lancaster to
Harrisburgh not being as yet finished any further.[6] The country also
is not so highly improved as in the neighbourhood of Lancaster, the
inhabitants still residing in their original small log houses, though
they have generally good and spacious stone barns.

After four hours walking, I arrived at Elizabethtown eighteen miles
from Lancaster,[7] and stopped at the sign of General Wayne, where for
a five penny bit (six cents and a quarter) I got a bowl of excellent
egg punch, and a crust of bread.

It is surprising that at so short a distance from Lancaster, the
necessaries of life should be at least a third cheaper, which on
enquiry I found them here.

This village contains about thirty tolerable houses--has a
meeting-house, and a school, when a master {19} can be got, which is
not always the case, the place having now been some months vacant, to
whom the trustees ensure twenty-five scholars, at two dollars each
per quarter, which being only two hundred dollars per annum, I would
have supposed insufficient for his support, if at the same time I had
not been informed that his board and lodging in the most respectable
manner, will not cost him above eighty dollars a year, in this cheap
and plentiful country.[8]

After resting about an hour, and not feeling at all fatigued, at half
past four, I proceeded for Middleton, eight miles further, first
loading one of the barrels of my gun with a running ball, as I had to
pass near where one Eshelman was robbed and murdered last fall.

The road over Connewago hills was bad, and by the time I arrived at the
bridge over Connewago creek, three miles from Elizabethtown, my left
foot began to pain me, so that I was forced to slacken my pace, which
made it dark before I arrived at Swatara creek, when the pain had much
increased, which was occasioned by my stepping through the ice up to my
knees in a run which crossed the road, which the darkness prevented my
seeing.

The boat was at the other side of the creek, and the German family at
the ferry-house let me kick my heels at the door until I was quite
chilled, before they invited me in, which old Mrs. Smith did at last
with a very bad grace, and she almost scolded me for risking the
dropping on her very dirty floor, the spirits of turpentine, with which
I was wetting the feet of my stockings to prevent my catching cold, a
phial of which I carried in my pocket for that purpose. In about half
an hour, which appeared to me an age, the boat returned, and I gladly
left the dirty, boorish, inhospitable mansion, crossed the creek in
a canoe, hauled over by a rope extended from bank to bank, about 70
yards, and in a few minutes after {20} I found myself in Mrs. Wentz’s
excellent inn, the sign of general Washington in Middleton. My foot
being much blistered, I bathed it in cold water, and then injudiciously
opened the blisters with a lancet, and spunged them with spirits of
turpentine: I then got a good supper and an excellent bed, but my
foot pained me so much as to prevent my sleeping, so I arose early,
unrefreshed, and breakfasted with my landlady, an agreeable, well bred
woman.

The view down the Susquehannah from Mrs. Wentz’s back piazza is
very fine. The town contains about a hundred houses and is well and
handsomely situated about half a mile above the conflux of Swatara
creek with Susquehannah river, the former of which forms a good harbour
for boats, which it is in contemplation to join to the Schuylkill by a
canal, in order to give Philadelphia the benefit of the navigation of
the Susquehannah through its long course above Middleton. If this is
carried into effect, it will draw to Philadelphia a vast quantity of
produce, which now goes to Baltimore.[9]

The Susquehannah is a noble river, here about a mile wide, with fine
sloping wooded banks, and abounds with rock-fish, perch, mullet, eels,
suckers, cat-fish and white salmon, which last is described as a fine
fish from seven to fifteen pounds weight, but a distinct species
from the red salmon of the northern rivers. Notwithstanding their
plenty, Mrs. Wentz assured me that she was seldom gratified with a
dish of fish; for though there are many poor people in the town and
neighbourhood, who might make a good living by fishing, she says they
are too lazy to do any thing more than will procure them some whiskey,
in addition to a miserable subsistence, which a very little labour will
suffice for in a country where work is so well paid for, and where the
necessaries of life are so abundant and cheap.

Was it not that the Susquehannah abounds with {21} falls, shallows and
rapids which impede the navigation, it would be one of the most useful
rivers in the world, as its different branches from its different
sources, embrace a wonderful extent of country, settled, or rapidly
settling, and abounding in wheat and maize (Indian corn,) which most
probably will always be staples of the large and flourishing state of
Pennsylvania.

The road to Harrisburgh leads parallel to the Susquehannah, in some
places close to the river, and never more distant from it than a
quarter of a mile, along a very pleasant level, bounded on the right
by a ridge of low, but steep wooded hills, approaching and receding at
intervals, and affording a fine shelter from the northerly winds, to
the farms between them and the river; which perhaps is one reason that
the orchards are so numerous and so fine in this tract.

I have rarely seen in any country, a road more pleasant than this,
either from its own goodness, or the richness and variety of prospect.
The Susquehannah on the left about three quarters of a mile wide;
sometimes appearing, and sometimes concealed by orchards, groves or
clumps of wood. The fine wooded islands in the river. The mountains
which terminate the ridge called the South mountain (which crosses
part of Virginia, and the southern part of this state) rising abruptly
from the margin of the river, in which they are charmingly reflected,
altogether form a scenery truly delightful.

About three miles below Harrisburgh the mountains terminate, and the
south bank of the river becomes more varied, though still hilly; and
here on an elevated promontory, with a commanding view of the river,
from above Harrisburgh to below Middleton, is a large, and apparently
fine stone house, owned by general Simpson who resides in it on his
farm, and is proprietor of a ferry much frequented by the western
wagonners, as the road that way is {22} shorter by two miles, than that
by Harrisburgh.--He farms out the ferry on his side for about three
hundred dollars per annum, while on this side the proprietor rents it
at four hundred and seventy. The value of this ferry called Chambers’s,
may serve to convey some idea of the state of travelling in this
country, particularly if one reflects that there are many other well
frequented ferries where publick roads cross the river, within thirty
miles both above and below this one, and which are all great avenues to
the western country.

When two miles from the ferry I observed a long line of sleds, horses,
men, &c. crossing on the ice; which scene, at that distance had a
curious and picturesque appearance, as the ice was glassy, and in
consequence they appeared to be moving on the surface of the water, in
which their shadows inverted and reflected as in a mirror, struck the
eye with very grotesque imagery.

Some labourers who were at work in a barn at the ferry-house, and of
whom I was asking some questions relative to the country, were much
astonished at my double barrelled gun, admiring its work and lightness,
and calling it a _curious creature_.

When within a mile and a half of Harrisburgh,[10] the white cupola
of its court-house, and the roofs of the houses of the town are seen
peeping over the trees, and have a good effect.

At one o’clock I entered that town, turning to the left over Paxton
creek bridge. I stopt at the ferry-house, which is also a tavern, but
appearance of accommodation not being very promising, I continued my
walk along the bank of the river, and stopt at another tavern, where
I asked if I could have a bed that night. A dirty looking girl at the
stove drawled but that she believed I might. I then asked for some
mulled wine. She said eggs were scarce, and she could not get any.
From these symptoms of {23} carelessness, I thought it best to try my
fortune a little further; so putting on my shot belt and taking my gun,
I quietly walked out in search of a place of more civil reception, and
fortunately I entered Bennet’s, the sign of the white horse, fronting
the river, at the corner of the principal cross street, which leads to
the market place. I say _fortunately_, for I found it an excellent,
plentiful and well frequented house, and Mr. and Mrs. Bennet, two fine
girls, his daughters by a former wife, and a Mr. Fisher an assistant,
and apparently some relation, all attentive and studious to please.

After getting some refreshment I wrote some letters, and carried them
to the post-office. The office being shut, the postmaster very civilly
invited me into his parlour, to settle for the postage, where seeing
a large map of Pennsylvania, I took the opportunity of tracing my
journey, which the postmaster observing, he very politely assisted me
in it, pointing out the most proper route. There were some ladies in
the room, apparently on a visit, and there was an air of socialty and
refinement throughout, which was very pleasing.

Leaving the post-office I walked through the town. It contains about
two hundred and fifty houses, most of them very good, some of brick,
some of stone, and some of wood. The principal street runs nearly east
and west, and has two small market-houses in the centre, where the
street is widened purposely into a small square. Parallel to this main
street is a street charmingly situated on the bank of the Susquehannah,
open to the river on the side next it, and tolerably well built on the
other, having a wide foot way, in some parts paved, and marked in its
whole length by a row of Lombardy poplars regularly planted, which
serves also to shade the houses from the scorching rays of the summers
sun. This street, though at present wide enough, has not been laid
{24} out sufficiently so to provide against the gradual encroachment
of the river, on its steep gravelly bank of about twenty feet high
above the common level of the water. The view from every part of this
street is very beautiful, both up and down the river, about five miles
each way--terminated upwards by the long ridge of the Blue mountains,
through a gap in which of about three miles long, which is also open
to the view, the river rolls its rapid current, contracted there to
less than half a mile wide. While downwards the eye rests on the South
mountain, impending over general Simpson’s house, which in its turn
seems to overhang the river, from the high promontory on which it is
situated. Several islands add to the beauty of the view, particularly
one, on which is a fine farm of nearly one hundred acres just opposite
the town.

The court-house is near the market square on the principal cross
street, and is a handsome plain brick building of two lofty stories,
with a cupola rising from the centre of the roof, remarkable for
its vane of copper gilt, representing an Indian chief, as large as
the life, with a bow in his left hand, and a tomahawk in the act of
cutting, in the right. The house is about seventy feet by fifty,
with two small receding wings. The hall for the court is very neat,
spacious and convenient; doors opening from it into the record and
prothonotary’s offices in the wings. A fine easy double staircase
leads to the great room over the hall for the courts. This room is now
used as a temporary place of worship by the English Presbyterians,
until their own meeting-house is finished, which is of brick and in
great forwardness. From each corner of this room a door opens into the
register office, the library and two jury rooms.

There is as yet no other place of publick worship in Harrisburgh,
except an old wooden house used as such, by a congregation of German
Lutherans.

{28, _i.e._, 25} This town which is now the capital of Dauphin county
was laid out twenty-three years ago by the late proprietor, Mr. Harris,
whose father is buried near the bank of the river, opposite the stone
house he lived in, under a large old tree, which, once during his life,
concealed and saved him from some Indians, by whom he was pursued.

I observed in the office of a Mr. Downie, a magistrate, a newly
invented patent stove, made of sheet iron, consisting of two horizontal
parallel cylinders, about a foot apart, one over the other and
communicating by a pipe; the upper one is heated by the smoke from the
lower, which contains the fuel. Mr. Downie informed me that it saved
much fuel. The patentee lives here.

On returning to my inn, I found there a Mr. W. P----, of Pittsburgh,
just arrived. In the course of the evening he gave me much good
information of the western country, accompanied by a friendly
invitation to call on him in Pittsburgh, should I be detained there
until his return from Philadelphia, where he was now going. He had
formerly lived in Harrisburgh for some years after his arrival from
Ireland, his native country. The joyful eagerness with which numbers
of his old acquaintance flocked to Bennet’s to visit him, evinced his
having been much esteemed and respected.


FOOTNOTES:

[6] This turnpike is now completed, I am informed, as far as Middleton,
and another extends from Lancaster to York, and is progressing on that
route to Chambersburgh.--CRAMER.

[7] The site of Elizabethtown was secured by an Indian trader in 1746,
who sold it seven years later to Barnabas Hughes. The latter, a noted
tavern-keeper, laid out the town and named it in honor of his wife. On
the highway between Lancaster and Harrisburg, Elizabethtown soon became
an important stopping place, the original log-cabin tavern having been
extant until 1835.--ED.

[8] Cuming here describes one of the neighborhood or voluntary schools,
organized chiefly in the frontier districts, which afterwards (1834)
became the basis of the common-school system of Pennsylvania. See
Wickersham, _History of Education in Pennsylvania_ (Lancaster, 1886),
pp. 178-182.--ED.

[9] Middletown was so named from being half way between Lancaster
and Carlisle. It is older than Harrisburg, and was first known as
“South End of Paxtang township.” It flourished until 1796, when an
enterprising merchant discovering that the Susquehanna could be
navigated, trade was diverted hence to Baltimore.--ED.

[10] For the early history of Harrisburg, see Post’s _Journals_, vol. i
of this series, p. 237, note 73.--ED.




{26} CHAPTER III

 Harrisburgh ferry--Old Jameson--The Conestoga massacre--Militia
    riflemen--Carlisle and Dickenson college.


On Saturday 24th, I arose early, but the ferry-boat not being ready, I
partook of an excellent breakfast with my friendly host and his family,
and at ten o’clock I embarked in a large flat, with the western mail
and several passengers and horses. The flat was worked by nine stout
men, with short setting poles shod and pointed with iron, to break the
ice and stick in the bottom. Only one set or pushed on the upper side,
while eight set on the lower side, to keep the boat from being forced
by the current against the ice, while a tenth steered with a large oar
behind. A channel for this purpose had been cut through the ice, and
was kept open as loaded wagons could cross the river in a flat with
more safety than on the ice.

In twenty-two minutes we were landed on the western shore of the
Susquehannah in Cumberland county; and I trudged on, my foot paining me
very much, until half past twelve o’clock, when I stopped at a tavern
seven miles from the ferry and got some refreshment. Here I found a
tall active old man of the name of Jameson, seventy-six years of age,
who had crossed the ferry with me, and had afterwards passed me on the
road, on horseback. He had accompanied his parents from the county
Antrim in Ireland when only six years old, had resided thirty-six
years at Paxton, near where Harrisburgh has since been built, (where
he had been on business) and had afterwards removed to a part of
Virginia about two hundred miles distant, where he has a large farm
and distillery. He insisted on treating me, as he said, he liked to
encourage the consumption of whiskey; of which, and the telling of old
stories he was so fond, that he appeared to forget he had so {27} long
a journey before him, until reminded by seeing some travellers pass on
horseback, whom he hastened to overtake for the sake of their company.
He did not however neglect finishing his whiskey, which he swallowed
with great gout, and on mounting his horse, cracked jokes about a buxom
widow, at whose tavern beyond Carlisle, he proposed sleeping that
night. Among other stories with which he had entertained me, he told
me the particulars of the massacre of the Indians at Lancaster, and he
took a good deal of pride to himself, for having been one of the heroes
who had assisted on that memorably disgraceful expedition. In justice
however to the old man, I must observe that he related with pleasure
that the party he accompanied, arrived too late in Lancaster to assist
in the carnage.[11]

{28} As this is a circumstance not generally known, it may not be amiss
to introduce here a short account of it.--The Conestoga Indians, as
they were called, from their residence near the banks of Conestoga
creek, were the remains of a tribe of the Six nations, who entered into
a treaty with William Penn the first proprietor of the then province
of Pennsylvania, towards the close of the seventeenth century, by
which they had a thousand acres of land assigned them in the manor
of Conestoga for their residence. This treaty had been frequently
renewed afterwards, and was never violated on either part until their
extermination by the surrounding settlers. It is remarked that the
Indians diminish rapidly, in proportion to the increase of European
settlers in the neighbourhood of any of their towns. This was very
observable here, where from a tribe, they had decreased in about
seventy years, to seven men, five women, and eight children.

An Indian war had commenced through the intrigues of the French, in
the year 1754, at the commencement of which, many of the frontier
inhabitants being murdered or driven in by the aborigines, aided
by the French, a general panick followed. The Conestoga Indians,
notwithstanding their weakness, their local situation, and their
peaceable and innocent habits of supporting themselves by making of
wicker {29} baskets, brooms and other wooden ware, which they sold
to their white neighbours, as well as the skins of the wild animals
which they killed in hunting, became objects of terror to the panick
struck whites. To be an Indian, was enough to excite both the passions
of fear and revenge. This poor defenceless remnant of a once powerful
tribe, had but just sent an address, according to their custom on
the occasion of every new governor, to John Penn, esq. who then
held that office; welcoming him on his arrival from Britain, and
praying a continuance of that favour and protection they had hitherto
experienced; when at the dawn of day of the 14th December 1763, the
Indian village was attacked by about sixty men well mounted and armed.
Only three men, two women and a boy were found at home, the rest being
out among the whites vending their little wares. Those poor wretches
were butchered and scalped in the manner of the savages, by those more
savage descendants of the civilized Europeans: Even the hoary locks
of the venerable and good old chief Shebaes, who had assisted at the
second treaty between the whites and Indians in 1701, and who had
always since been the avowed friend of the former, could not excite
the mercy, much less the respect of his barbarous assassins:--he was
cut to pieces in his bed, and scalped with the rest, and the huts were
then committed to the flames. The magistrates of Lancaster collected
the remaining Indians, and brought them into that town, condoling with
them on the late misfortune, and promising them protection; with which
intent they were put into the jail, as the strongest building in the
town.

Their merciless blood hounds not satiated with the blood already spilt,
and increased to the number of five hundred well armed men, marched
into Lancaster. No opposition was made to them, though the first party
which arrived did not consist of {30} more than fifty, who without
awaiting any of the rest, forced the jail, dragged their victims into
the yard, and there immolated them, while clinging to their knees, and
supplicating mercy. In this manner they all, men, women, and children,
received the hatchet, amid the exultations of their murderers, who
after the tragedy, paraded the streets, huzzaing, and using every other
mark of self-approbation for the glorious deed they had achieved.
How weak must have been the government, which dared not attempt any
publick investigation of an act so disgraceful to humanity, and in
such direct violation of the laws; but it is a fact that not even the
name of one of the perpetrators was ever published; they were however
generally known by the appellation of _Paxton boys_, though the
township of Paxton was only one of many concerned.

At the tavern where I overtook Jameson, I saw some young men in
blue jackets with scarlet binding, the uniform of a volunteer corps
of militia riflemen. They had been with their rifles in search of
squirrels, but unsuccessfully, the weather being too cold for those
animals to come out of their hollow trees.

Apropos of the rifle.--The inhabitants of this country in common with
the Virginians, and all the back woods people, Indians as well as
whites, are wonderfully expert in the use of it: thinking it a bad shot
if they miss the very head of a squirrel, or a wild turkey, on the top
of the highest forest tree with a single ball; though they generally
load with a few grains of swan shot, with which they are equally sure
of hitting the head of the bird or animal they fire at.

Ten miles further brought me to Carlisle,[12] at six o’clock in
the evening; the whole road from Harrisburgh {31} being very fine
and level, the houses and farms good, and the face of the country
pleasant. The view on the right is all the way terminated by the Blue
mountains--the longest north eastern branch of the Allegheny ridge,
from six to ten miles distant.

I observed about a mile from Carlisle on the left, and about a half a
mile from the road, a large handsome stone house belonging to a Mr.
Jackson of Baltimore, which was formerly owned by General Arden; and
about half way between it and the town, and also to the left of the
road, the large barrack, magazine, and depot of arms, built during
the revolutionary war. Dickenson college, a spacious stone building
with a cupola was directly before me, with the town of Carlisle on
the left of it extending to the southward on an elevated plain: the
whole having a very good effect on the approach. The twilight shutting
out further view, I hastened through a tolerable compact street to
Foster’s, to which I had been recommended as the best inn. I asked if
I could have a bed that night, and was answered rudely, by an elderly
man, in the bar who I took for the landlord, after he had eyed me with
a contemptuous scrutiny--that I could not. The house appeared a little
_would be stylish_--and I was afoot--so not of consequence enough for
Mr. Foster. I turned on my heel, and entered the next tavern kept by
Michael Herr, an honest and obliging German, where I found nothing to
make me regret my being rejected as a guest at Foster’s, except want of
bed linen, sheets not being generally used in this country in the inns,
excepting at English ones, or those of fashionable resort. A very good
bed otherwise, and an excellent supper, with attentive treatment, well
compensated for that little deficiency.

After supper, I received both pleasure and information from the
conversation of a philosophick German gentleman, an inhabitant of
Carlisle, who favoured {32} me with his company, and who discoursed
fluently on opticks, pneumaticks, the French modern philosophy, and a
variety of literary topicks, evincing great reading, and a good memory.

Before I retired to rest, I walked to the tavern, where the wagons
generally stop, and had the pleasure of finding, that arrived, which
carried my baggage, which I had not seen since I left Lancaster.

Carlisle is a post town, and the capital of Cumberland county. It
contains about three hundred houses of brick, stone, and wood. The two
principal streets cross each other at right angles, where there is a
market-house, a neat brick court-house and a large stone meeting-house.
There are besides in the town, a German, an Episcopalian, and a Roman
Catholick church. The streets are wide, and the footways are flagged
or coarsely paved. Dickenson college on the north, was founded in
1783, and was so named in compliment to Mr. John Dickenson, formerly
president of the supreme executive council of Pennsylvania, and author
of the Pennsylvania Farmer’s Letters, and other writings of much merit.
It has a principal,[13] three professors, and generally about eighty
students. It has a philosophical apparatus and a library, containing
about three thousand volumes. It has £4000 in funded certificates, and
the state has granted it ten thousand acres of land: {33} On the whole
it is esteemed a respectable seminary of learning, and is extremely
well situated for that purpose, in a healthy and plentiful country, and
about equidistant from the capital of the state, and the capital of the
United States, one hundred and twenty miles from each.[14]


FOOTNOTES:

[11] The character here given of old Mr. Jameson, puts us in mind of an
old man of a similar character in Washington county, Pennsylvania, of
the name of _Foreman_, who at this time is _ninety-eight_ years of age.
I had a curiosity in seeing this old gentleman, and about two years ago
called on him for the purpose of conversing a few minutes with him. I
was fully paid the trouble, for I found him talkative and considerably
worldly minded. Among other things he observed that ‘The fashions of
the day had injured society, and had lead astray the minds of young men
and young women from the paths of simple and rustick honesty they used
to walk in fifty or sixty years ago. That there was much hypocrisy in
the shew of so much religion as appeared at present. That people were
too fond of lying in their beds late in the morning, and drinking too
much whiskey. That he himself used to take a frolick now and then to
treat his friends of a Saturday night, after working hard all the week,
but that he had not drank any spirituous liquors for twenty-five years.
That he had been always an early riser, having been in the habit when
he first settled where he now lives (having come from Virginia about
thirty years ago) of going around to all his neighbours before or about
day-light, to waken them up, and bid them _good morning_, and return
home again before his own family would be out of bed. I asked him why
he never came to Pittsburgh; he replied that he could ride there he
supposed, but that he had no business in that place, but that he should
like to move to Kentucky or to the state of Ohio, if he went any where.
On speaking of his great age and the probable number of years he might
yet live, he seemed inclined to believe he would live at least four
years longer, (being then ninety-six) wishing as appeared to me, to
make out the round number of _one hundred years_. He is quite a small
man, somewhat emaciated, but erect in his carriage, can see tolerably
well, and walks about the house without a cane, milk and vegetables
have been, through life, his principal diet, and water his beverage.
His present wife, being his second, is quite a smart woman, and is
about eighty-six years old. The old gentleman observed that he had
never to his recollection been sick, so as to have required the aid of
a physician.’ Happy old man thought I, thou hast been happy, and art
still so!--Peace to the remainder of thy lengthened days!--CRAMER.

[12] For an account of Carlisle, see Post’s _Journals_, vol. i of this
series, p. 237, note 75.--ED.

[13] By a letter from Mr. Robert Lamberton, postmaster at Carlisle, it
appears Dickenson college was burnt down by accidental fire, February
3d, 1803, and rebuilt in 1804. Doctor Nesbit, a Scotch gentleman of
great learning, and much celebrated for his application to his studies,
and particularly for the uncommon retentiveness of his memory, had
been several years president of this college; he died 18th January,
1804. The Rev. Mr. Atwater, from Middlebury, Vermont, took his place as
principal at the last commencement, on Wednesday the 27th September,
1809, and from his known abilities and piety, we may safely calculate
that the college is again in a flourishing condition.--CRAMER.

[14] Dickenson has had many well-known alumni; but after the death of
its first president, Dr. Nesbit, a period of decline set in, lasting
until 1833, when its founders, the Presbyterians, sold it to the
Methodists, who have since maintained the college.--ED.




CHAPTER IV

 Different roads to Shippensburgh--Foxes--South mountain and pine
    woods--Shippensburgh--Strasburgh--North or Blue mountain--Horse
    valley and Skinner’s tavern.


On the 25th January at 8 A.M. I left Carlisle, having previously taken
an egg beat up in a glass of wine. There are two roads, one called
the Mountrock road which goes from the north end of the town, and the
other called the Walnut-bottom road, which leads from the south end.
They run parallel to each other about three miles apart. I took the
latter, which is the stage road, as the wagon with my baggage was
to go that way, though I was informed that the first led through a
better country. I found mile-stones on the right hand all the way to
Shippensburgh, placed at the expence of the proprietors of the lands
on this road, to prove it shorter than the other, they having before
been computed at the equal length of twenty-one miles each; but now
this one is marked only nineteen. The first five miles are through a
very poor and stony country, thinly inhabited, and covered, except on
the cultivated parts of the few miserable looking farms, with short,
stunted, scrubby wood. The next seven miles are through a better
improved country, and a better soil, with large farms {34} and good
houses; then there are three miles over the northern skirt of the South
mountain, through gloomy forests of tall pines, with here and there a
log cabin surrounded by a few acres of cleared land, and abounding in
children, pigs, and poultry. The last four miles improve gradually to
Shippensburgh.

At eleven o’clock I stopt and breakfasted at a large tavern on the
right, seven miles from Carlisle, I got coffee, bread and butter, eggs
and excellent honey in the comb, for which I was charged only nineteen
cents. My landlord presented me one of the largest and finest apples
I had ever seen: it was the produce of his own orchard, where he had
several trees of the same species, raised by himself from the pippin,
and neither grafted nor budded. He had the manners of a New Englandman,
being desirous both of receiving and of communicating information,
but I soon gathered from him that he was a native of that part of
Pennsylvania, and of English extraction. On my entrance he had laid
down a book, which taking up afterwards, I found to be a volume of
Robertson’s Charles V.

As I proceeded from hence, two very beautiful red foxes playfully
crossed the road about a hundred yards before me; they then recrossed
it, and seeing me, made up a hill to the right with incredible
swiftness, leaping with ease a Virginia worm fence above six feet high.

At half past four I arrived at Shippensburgh, which was laid out for a
town, about fifty years ago, and named after the first proprietor and
settler, the father of judge Shippen of Philadelphia.[15] It contains
between 150 and 200 straggling houses, in one street, nearly a mile
in length: with nothing else interesting to recommend it to notice.
I stopt at Raume’s, a German house about the middle of the town, and
apparently the best tavern in it. I bathed my feet in cold water, and
dressed the left one which was {35} much blistered and very painful:
Soon after which, my wagonner Jordan, with three others in his company
arriving, we all sat down together, according to the custom of the
country, to a plentiful and good supper; after which, the wagonners
spread their mattresses and blankets round the stove in the bar room,
and I retired to a good bed, but without an upper sheet.

Monday, 26th January, at half past ten; I proceeded towards
Strasburgh, in preference to keeping the stage road to the left through
Chambersburgh,[16] as I shortened the road eight miles in a distance of
thirty-eight, to where the two roads again met.

The country to Strasburgh, eleven miles, is well inhabited, and the
soil is tolerably good; and the Blue mountains are full in front,
extending to the right and left as far as the eye can reach. Those
mountains are not higher than the highlands on Hudson river above New
York, about 2500 feet perpendicular from the plain below, from which
they rise abruptly, and the road is seen winding up their side to a
small gap near the top, which separates from the main ridge a pyramidal
knob, which, apparently higher {36} than the ridge, seems to hang
directly over Strasburgh. I met on the road, two wagons with six horses
each, from Zanesville in the state of Ohio, going to Philadelphia
for goods:--They had been a month on the road. At two miles from
Strasburgh, I past a direction post on the left pointing to Cummins’s
mills, and at 1 o’clock I entered that town and stopt at Bell’s, the
last tavern on the left. As there was no beer in the house, they had
to send for it to Merkel’s, a German house. And here it may not be
amiss to observe that the German taverns on these roads, are generally
better provided with both liquors and provisions, than the English or
Irish, but their manners are not the most agreeable, they being very
inattentive to any of the wants of a traveller, except the providing
his meals, and the bringing him what liquor he calls for.

It is twelve years since Strasburgh was laid out. It contains about
fifty indifferent houses, and does not seem to be thriving.

At two o’clock, I began to ascend the North or Blue mountains,
immediately from Strasburgh.--After ascending about a mile, I stopped
and rested at a hut, the only dwelling on the passage over the
mountain. Proceeding from hence, I was overtaken a little higher up
by a man driving before him his horse loaded with a bag of wheat. We
entered into conversation, and he entertained me with his exploits,
in killing bears,[17] wolves, racoons, and foxes, {37} which abound
on these mountains, as well as deer, wild turkeys, pheasants, and
squirrels. I stopped occasionally, to observe the view behind me,
which though a good deal impeded by the trees, is nevertheless very
extensive, over a woody country, terminated by the long range of the
South mountain, extending from the banks of the Susquehannah below
Harrisburgh to the S.W. as far as the eye can reach. Though extensive,
it is however an uninteresting prospect, as though I saw many patches
of cleared land, the town of Shippensburgh twelve miles distant, and
Strasburgh directly under me;--wood with its (at this season) brown,
sombre hue, is the prevailing feature. After ascending a mile and a
half from Strasburgh, I came to the top of the mountain, and looked
down on the other side into a dark narrow romantick vale called Horse
valley, with the two Skinner’s good farms, still house and mill, and
Conodogwinnet {38} creek gliding through the middle towards the N.E.;
while the middle mountain, rose immediately opposite me, from the other
side of the valley, the summit of it apparently not a mile distant from
where I stood, though in reality it is three miles, so much is the eye
deceived by the depth of the intermediate vale.

At 4 o’clock, I stopped at Skinner’s, where at my particular request,
I was gratified with hasty pudding or mush, as it is called in this
state, with plenty of good milk and apple pye for supper. My host was
born near Woodbridge in Jersey, from whence his father had removed
to this country many years ago. There are now about twenty families
settled in the valley, which extends from the south end twelve miles
above Skinner’s, to a gap in the Blue mountains five miles below,
through which the Conodogwinnet flows from its source at the upper end
of the valley, which it waters in its whole length of seventeen miles,
to join the Susquehannah near Harrisburgh, forty miles distant.

One Wagstaff, formerly an English soldier, who had been wounded and
made a prisoner at the battle of Monmouth, and now a farmer near
Pittsburgh, and a lad returning home to the same neighbourhood, after
assisting to drive a herd of a hundred and fifty hogs to Philadelphia,
which had employed him a month, put up here for the night, and I was
much amused with the anecdotes of the old soldier and my host, who had
also been a soldier on the patriotick side, during the revolutionary
war. They had been opposed to each other in several battles, and
reminded each other of many incidents which happened at them. My
landlord was a politician, but his system of politicks and his general
ideas were completely original. Amongst other topicks, Col. Burr’s
present situation and intentions were discussed, when our host gave it
as his decided opinion, that he had secured {39} the friendship and
assistance of a warlike and powerful nation of Indians, inhabiting a
country on the banks of the Missouri about 1500 miles in circumference,
where is the celebrated mountain of salt. That they fought on horseback
and were armed with short Spanish caribines; and that with their aid
he meant to conquer Mexico, and erect an empire independent of both
Spaniards and Americans.

Mrs. Skinner was confined to her bed in an advanced stage of a
consumption: I recommended her inhaling the steam of melted rosin and
bees-wax, and wrote directions for her accordingly. When I retired to
rest, I had once more the luxury of clean sheets and a good bed.


FOOTNOTES:

[15] See note on Shippensburg in Post’s _Journals_, vol. i of this
series, p. 238, note 76.--ED.

[16] Chambersburgh is a thriving town, capital of Franklin co.,
Pennsylvania, 162 miles east of Pittsburgh, the mail route, and 11
beyond the Big Cove mountain. The Philadelphia and Baltimore mail
stages meet here, the former three times a week, the latter twice a
week, this circumstance, with other advantages, makes it a tolerable
lively place. It contains about 250 houses, has two paper mills, a
grist mill in the town, and several others within a short distance,
all turned by a spring which heads about two miles from the town.
An original bank has been lately established here, with a capital
of a quarter of a million of dollars, Edward Crawford, president,
A. Colhoun, cashier. Two weekly papers are published here, one of
which is German. It has a number of mercantile houses, and taverns in
plenty, some of which are well kept, and principally by Germans. The
stage-master here is a Mr. Davis, formerly of M’Connellstown--He is
well spoken of for his attention and politeness to passengers, a very
necessary qualification for a stage-master.--CRAMER.

[17] In the New York Medical Repository, vol. 5, page 343-4, we find
the following curious facts concerning the mode of generation in the
American bear.

“The singular departure from the common course of nature in the
procreation of the opossum and the shark, are already known; but
the manner in which the fœtus is matured by the female bear is not
so generally understood. The following information was given to Mr.
Franklin, senator of the United States from North Carolina, by the
hunters. This animal hybernates, and, during the winter, retires to
hollow trees and caverns, but does not become torpid, or sink into the
sleeping state. Though found often in great numbers on the frontier
settlements, and frequently killed and eaten by the inhabitants, there
has never been an instance of a female killed in a pregnant condition,
or big with young. The reason is, that almost immediately after
conception, the fœtus, while shapeless, and resembling merely a small
animated lump, is excluded from the womb. Thus born, and exposed to the
open air, it has no connection with the teat like the opossum, nor with
an egg like the shark. There is no trace of a placenta nor umbilical
vessels. The growth of this rudiment of a future bear is supposed to
be promoted by licking; and the saliva of the dam, or some other fluid
from her mouth, appears to afford it nourishment. In the course of
time, and under such management, the limbs and organs are evolved, the
surface covered with hair, and the young cub at length rendered capable
of attending its parent. Thus far the inquiries of the hunters have
gone. The facts are so curious, that the subject is highly worthy of
further investigation. And when the entire history of the process of
generation in this animal shall be known, new light will be shed upon
one of the most obscure parts of physiology. It is to be hoped that
gentlemen whose opportunities are favourable to the prosecution of this
inquiry, will furnish the learned world shortly with the whole of these
mysterious phenomena.”--CRAMER.




CHAPTER V

 Another traveller--The middle mountain--Fannetsburgh--Good effect
    of hunger in destroying fastidiousness--Tuscarora mountain and fine
    view--Ramsey’s--Change my mode of travelling--Hull’s--Fall from my
    horse--Sideling hill--Coyle’s good tavern--Curious scene at another
    tavern--Ray’s hill--River Juniata--Bloody run--Bedford.


On the morning of the 27th January, I took leave of my friendly host
Skinner, and passing his brothers about a mile distant, I was joined
by another pedestrian traveller, who had left Strasburgh that morning,
and had stopped here to rest previous to ascending the middle mountain.
He walked on stoutly, and I limped after him, my foot paining me very
much. He was a plain countryman from Downpatrick in the north of
Ireland, who had formerly {40} resided near Carlisle, from whence he
had removed to the western part of the state, where his health having
suffered through a general debility, he had returned two hundred miles
to his former residence for medical aid, had remained there since the
fall under a course of medicine and diet, and his health being now
re-established, he was again going to the western country.

When on the top of the middle mountain about two miles from Skinner’s,
our eyes were regaled with a charming birds-eye view of some fine
cultivated farms in Path valley just below us, with the village of
Fannetsburgh of thirty houses in the midst, watered by a fine mill
stream called the Conogocheaque in its southerly course towards the
Potomack.

The scenery here reminded me of some of the vales of Switzerland, but
appetite for breakfast urging me on towards the village below, I did
not bestow much time in contemplating it.

I now proved that “hunger is a good sauce,” for I made a hearty meal at
M’Callum’s, spite of a dirty room, a sickly woman, and bad tea, which
last even when good, I disapprove of, especially for breakfast, but
having always had coffee hitherto, without ordering it, I had neglected
doing so now, and I was too hungry and too scrupulous of giving trouble
to direct or await a change. This was the second sickly landlady I had
seen amongst these mountains, which has impressed me with an idea, that
the air is too keen and trying for delicate constitutions.

When I returned into the bar room, from the breakfast parlour, if a
small dirty room with a bed in it deserves that appellation, I found
a traveller in it, who had two horses at the door, the use of one
of which he had offered to my fellow pedestrian (who, as he carried
provision in a knapsack, had not breakfasted with me,) on condition
of his being at the expence of feeding him on the road. He was {41}
just declining the offer as I entered, so I embraced it gladly, and
the young man agreed to take me up as soon as he should overtake me on
the road, as he had to await his brother who was to accompany him, and
I expressed a wish to walk before over the Tuscarora mountain, both
to enjoy the scenery, and to avoid the danger of riding over it three
miles, with the road in many parts like glass, from the freezing of
the snow after a partial thaw. I set off with my former companion, who
I had regaled with a gill of whiskey, but as I occasionally stopped
to admire the beauties of nature in that mountainous and romantick
district, he not being equally struck with them, preferred making the
best of his way, so walked on before, and separated from me without
ceremony, which I was not sorry for, as it left me more at liberty and
leisure to proceed as I pleased.

As I ascended, the views of the valley behind were very fine, through
and over the large heavy pines which cover the face of the mountain;
but when near the top, the prospect to the southward was really
sublime, of the valley in its whole length that way, finely cultivated
and watered, bounded by distant pyramidal mountains, isolated and
unconnected with either of the ridges divided by the valley in a long
vista, about two miles wide. From the summit of the Tuscarora ridge,
the view to the westward, though extensive, was cheerless and gloomy,
over a broken and mountainous or rather hilly country, covered with
forests, chiefly of the dark and sombre pine, which would have rendered
me quite dispirited, if I had not anticipated a speedy journey through
it on horseback.

At the western foot of the mountain I stopped at Ramsey’s, an
innkeeper, farmer, saddler and distiller, who has a fine farm, and a
good house (I mean literally, but not as a tavern)--It was noon, Mr.
Ramsey with a stranger, seated himself to dinner, while {42} his wife
in the patriarchal mode, very common in this country, attended table.
I contented myself with a tumbler of egg punch, which I had just
swallowed, as my horsemen rode past, calling out that they would await
me at the distillery, where I accordingly joined them, drank a dram of
new whiskey with the hospitable distiller, mounted my mare, threw away
my cudgel, and trotted off briskly with my new companions.

The road was good, but the country broken, thinly inhabited and poor;
pine woods on each hand--a red gravelly soil, and a wretched looking
log hut at every two or three miles with a few acres cleared round
it, but the stumps, or girdled trees still standing. We stopped to
feed our horses at one, about six miles from Ramsey’s, which was the
residence of an old man named Hull, who had removed here from Lancaster
a few years ago. The large fire, cleanliness, and air of plenty, which
I found within, was the more enjoyed, from the contrast with the
wretched appearance without.

On remounting, my mare started, and a bag of rye and corn for provender
which was on the saddle under me, falling off, I fell with it. One
of my companions checked his horse suddenly and threw himself off to
assist me, and I was under both horses’ feet for some seconds; but
seizing the forefeet of the horse from which I apprehended the greatest
danger, I pulled them towards me, threw him down, and at the same time
scrambling from under him, I providentially escaped with only a slight
bruise on my left leg, and a rent in my pantaloons. My gun which was
loaded, and which I carried slung at my back, was thrown some distance
from me without injury.

We soon after overtook my late foot companion, who I believe now
regretted that he had not prevented my ride, as he seemed a good deal
fatigued. We advised him to bargain for a ride with a packer with {43}
two light horses, who we had past a little way behind, and we pushed on
to a mountain called Sideling-hill, eight miles from Hull’s; which we
ascended a mile, and then put up for the night, at a very good tavern,
kept by Daniel Coyle, who also owns a fine farm between the ridges of
the mountain.

I got an excellent supper alone, my fellow travellers carrying their
provisions with them: I had also a good bed with sheets, but the
pain of my blistered foot, which had been augmented by hanging from
the saddle in riding, prevented my closing my eyes to sleep until
three o’clock, when as exhausted nature was just beginning to induce
a temporary oblivion of pain, James Wilson the oldest of my fellow
travellers called us to horse, as he said, we must this day make a
journey of upwards of forty miles. His brother William, who like myself
had never travelled that road before, was obliged to acquiesce, though
unwillingly, so rather than lose my horse I complied also, and we were
on the road in half an hour after.

After riding four miles on a continued ridge of Sideling-hill, we
stopped at a log tavern to pick up the old soldier Wagstaff, whose
stories had amused me so much at Skinner’s in Horse valley, and who was
a neighbour of Wilson’s. He had the hog-driving lad still with him, and
one horse between them which they rode alternately.

It was not yet day, and the scene in the tavern was, to me, truly
novel. It was a large half finished log house, with no apparent
accommodation for any traveller who had not his own bed or blanket.
It was surrounded on the outside by wagons and horses, and inside,
the whole floor was so filled with people sleeping, wrapped in
their blankets round a large fire, that there was no such thing as
approaching it to get warm, until some of the travellers who had awoke
at our entrance, went out to feed their horses, after doing which, they
returned, drank whiskey under {44} the name of bitters, and resumed
their beds on the floor--singing, laughing, joking, romping, and
apparently as happy as possible. So much for custom.

About four miles from hence, we descended the western side of
Sideling-hill mountains, here called Rays-hill, at the foot of which we
forded the river Juniata, a beautiful stream, about sixty yards wide,
which after meandering in a wonderful manner through this mountainous
part of the country upwards of 200 miles, through a space of not
more than 100 of a direct line, falls into the Susquehannah about
twenty miles above Harrisburgh; in all which distance it is navigable
for large flat boats, of which considerable numbers are employed
transporting the abundant produce of those remote regions to the
Susquehannah, and down that river to Baltimore, from whence it finds
its way to Europe, destined to assist in feeding those countries, which
gave birth to the ancestors of the cultivators of this.

After crossing the Juniata, we pursued our road through a broken
country, very hilly, with the river almost always in sight, sometimes
on one hand and sometimes on the other, as its bends approached
or receded from the road, and sometimes directly under us at the
foot of terrifick precipices, down one of which, about twenty years
ago, a wagon was carried by the horses, falling 3 or 400 feet
perpendicular--The wagonner and horses were killed, and the wagon was
dashed to pieces.

At three miles and a half from the ford, we stopped to feed our horses
at a small log tavern, where was a large family, with three or four
very pretty girls, who forfeited the admiration they would otherwise
have commanded, by being covered with the itch, which made me cautious
how I ordered any thing to eat or drink, although I could have done
justice to a good breakfast.

The same kind of country continues to Bedford, {45} the road leading
through two remarkable defiles between the mountains, which as well
as the river sometimes approach and sometimes recede, the country
gradually improving both in population and quality of soil as we
advanced.

At three miles from where we fed our horses, we passed through a
village of a dozen houses, called Bloody run, in memory of a massacre
by the Indians of about 250 militia, while escorting a convoy of
provisions to the western frontier, soon after Braddock’s defeat near
Pittsburgh.[18]

Three miles further, we passed a hamlet of three or four houses,
called Snake-spring, from an immense number of snakes discovered there
in a hole and killed: And in four miles more, at 11 o’clock, we entered
Bedford, crossing two bridges half a mile from the town, one over
Crooked creek, and the other over the west or Raystown branch, which
uniting a little below, form the Juniata.

We put up at Fleming’s and fed the horses while I breakfasted. When
ready to proceed, I mounted, but found my mare so lame, that I was
obliged to remain behind, while my companions endeavoured to get her
along by driving her before them.


FOOTNOTES:

[18] Jones, _History of Juniata Valley_ (Philadelphia, 1856) gives a
different origin for the term “Bloody Run.” He derives it from the
attempt of the inhabitants, in the spring of 1765, to arrest a convoy
that was being sent by the Pennsylvania authorities to Pittsburg with
presents for the Indians. An English officer reporting the action, said
that the creek “ran with blood.” For the effect of this affair on the
pacification of the Indians, see _New York Colonial Documents_, vii, p.
716. For the history of Bedford, see Post’s _Journals_, vol. i of this
series, p. 240, note 81.--ED.




CHAPTER VI

 Bedford--Travellers and travelling--Whiskey preferred to victuals and
    necessaries--Obliging disposition of inhabitants--A musical and
    social judge--Departure in the stage--The Allegheny mountains--
    Somerset--Good inn--A murder--visit to the gaol.


Making a virtue of necessity, I consoled myself under my
disappointment, by restoring to my constitution the equilibrium of
rest, which it was deprived {46} of last night, by the anguish of my
foot, and the impatience of the elder Wilson; I accordingly went to
bed, and enjoyed an hour’s refreshing repose, after which I arose and
sauntered about the house until supper was announced, which I partook
of with my civil and attentive host and hostess Mr. and Mrs. Fleming.

Soon after supper, five travellers from the N. W. part of the state,
arrived on horseback, with whom I conversed until bed time. They were
on their way to Baltimore, and were plain Irishmen, uninformed of any
thing beyond their own business, which appeared to be that of packers,
or travelling merchants, who vend groceries and various merchandize
through the country.

The travelling on these roads in every direction is truly astonishing,
even at this inclement season, but in the spring and fall, I am
informed that it is beyond all conception.

Apropos of travelling--A European, who had not experienced it,
could form no proper idea of the manner of it in this country. The
travellers are, wagonners, carrying produce to, and bringing back
foreign goods from the different shipping ports on the shores of the
Atlantick, particularly Philadelphia and Baltimore;--Packers with from
one to twenty horses, selling or trucking their wares through the
country;--Countrymen, sometimes alone, sometimes in large companies,
carrying salt from M’Connelstown, and other points of navigation on
the Potomack and Susquehannah, for the curing of their beef, pork,
venison, &c.;--Families removing further back into the country, some
with cows, oxen, horses, sheep, and hogs, and all their farming
implements and domestick utensils, and some without; some with wagons,
some with carts and some on foot, according to their abilities:--The
residue, who made use of the best accommodations on the roads, are
country merchants, {47} judges and lawyers attending the courts,
members of the legislature, and the better class of settlers removing
back. All the first four descriptions carry provisions for themselves
and horses, live most miserably, and wrapped in blankets, occupy the
floor of the bar rooms of the taverns where they stop each night, which
the landlords give them the use of, with as much wood as they choose
to burn, in consideration of the money they pay them for whiskey,
of which they drink great quantities, expending foolishly, for that
which poisons them, as much money as would render them comfortable
otherwise.--So far do they carry this mania for whiskey, that to
procure it, they in the most niggardly manner deny themselves even the
necessaries of life; and, as I was informed by my landlord Fleming, an
observing and rational man, countrymen while attending the courts (for
they are generally involved in litigation, of which they are very fond)
occupy the bar rooms of the taverns in the country towns, for several
days together, making one meal serve them each day, and sometimes
two, and even three days--but drinking whiskey without bounds during
the same time. The latter description of travellers--the merchants,
lawyers, &c. travel as in other countries--making use of and paying for
their regular meals, beds, &c.

The pain of my foot having been much alleviated, by an application
of bran and vinegar all night, the next morning after my arrival in
Bedford, I walked out into the town, and having occasion to call at
some tradesmen’s shops, and at another excellent tavern where the
stage from the eastward stops, as that from the westward does at
Fleming’s, I was much gratified with the civility and desire to please,
which I observed throughout, which impressed me much in favour of the
place, and the impression was heightened by another circumstance that
forenoon. I had sat down to write, and while engaged at it, the bar
{48} keeper, who had been amusing himself with an octave flute, of
which I had made a pocket companion, opened the door, and introduced a
gentleman of the middle age, who I supposed to be a traveller; but he
soon undeceived me, by telling me that he had been informed I was fond
of musick, and that I had a German flute with me, which was also his
instrument, and he had taken the liberty of calling on me to inform me,
that there was a musical society in Bedford, of which he was a member,
and that he would convene it that evening for my amusement, if I would
assist them by taking a part. I excused myself on account of the pain
of my foot, and also on my flute being an octave. He then hoped a glass
of punch would be acceptable, which I declined, saying, I never drank
spirits of any description. There was something perhaps ungracious in
my refusal of his proffered civilities, for he appeared hurt, and made
a movement to depart, but I made my peace, and prevailed on him to give
me half an hour of his company, by observing that although I was a bad
fellow with respect to the bottle, I nevertheless enjoyed very much
the society of the well bred and well informed, and felt myself much
obliged to him for his polite attention. He proved to be a man of good
theoretick information, but with little practical worldly knowledge.
From a desire to appear to merit the compliment I had paid him, he
was particularly studious of his language, measuring each word, and
weighing every sentence before he gave it utterance;--prefacing each
speech with “If I may be permitted to hazard an opinion,”--“According
to my local ideas,” and other set phrases to fill up the vacuum, while
considering what he should next say on the subject under discussion. We
talked of the country--of robberies--murders and accidents, and at last
he bade me good morning; setting me down, no doubt, as a poor devil
without soul, who would {49} not drink spirits. On his taking leave,
“my name, Sir, said he is S---- it would perhaps be an unwarrantable
liberty to ask yours,” “Not at all, Sir, mine is ----.” Mrs. Fleming
afterwards told me that he was one of the associate judges of the
county, “a very clever and fine spoken man,” but rather over fond of
the universal enemy;--that he had lost considerable property, but that
his wife’s fortune being secured to herself, enabled him to still enjoy
some of the comforts of life.

This afternoon my wagonner arrived, and went on, appointing to be in
Pittsburgh on the Friday or Saturday evening of next week.

Bedford the capital of a county of the same name, is very romantically
situated--being hemmed in on all sides by low mountains covered with
woods except on the north, towards which point is a long vista, so
that it has not unaptly been compared to a barber’s bason, with the rim
cut out on one side for the chin. It was considered as a frontier only
about twenty years ago; when some of the stoccado which had defended it
when it had a garrison, was still to be seen.[19] It now contains about
80 houses, of brick, stone and logs. It has a court-house, a gaol,
and school-house, and I was informed that a house is used as a place
of worship for any Christian sect, and that sometimes a travelling
minister of one or other of the various divisions into which, to its
disgrace, Christianity is split, stops to remind the inhabitants of
their religious duties.[20]

{50} Apropos of religion.--Asking for a book last night, my landlord
sent me Richard Brother’s prophecies, with which farrago of
enthusiastick madness, I read myself to sleep. The town is supplied
with water from a spring half a mile distant, by means of wooden pipes,
which conduct it to a reservoir in the centre: And some chalybeate
springs strongly impregnated with sulphur, have lately been discovered
in the neighbourhood; to which, according to custom, whether with
justice or otherwise, great medicinal virtues are attributed.[21] This
town was incorporated in 1794, and is governed by two burgesses, a
constable, a town clerk and three assistants.

{51} The 31st day of January at 4 in the morning, I left Bedford in
the stage with three gentlemen and a young girl passengers. It had
snowed all night, {52} and the ground was covered some inches deep, so
we had to proceed slowly to break the road, crossing the West branch
of the Juniata twice in the first three miles. As day dawned, the
country appeared to be in general rather better settled and cultivated
than on the eastern side of Bedford, but it was still very hilly,
and wood was the prevailing feature. At half past 10, we had reached
the foot of the Allegheny {53} ridge, where we breakfasted; and here
I found one of the advantages of travelling in the stage, was to be
charged a sixteenth of a dollar more per meal, than if one travelled in
any other way.

We were now in Somerset county, and having changed stages, horses,
and drivers, we ascended by a very easy road of one mile to the top
of the highest ridge of land in the United States, to the eastward of
which all the rivers flow to the eastward, to empty themselves into the
Atlantick ocean, while to the westward, they flow westerly to unite
with the Mississippi, which is their common aqueduct to the gulph of
Mexico.[22]

The face of the country before us now changed for the better; not being
broken as to the eastward, but fine extensive levels and slopes, well
inhabited and cultivated; and the ridges of hills, though long, not
so steep, and finely clothed with heavy wood. This was the general
appearance of the country, until we arrived at Somerset, the capital of
the county, 14 miles from the top of the Allegheny ridge.

This is a new town, having been laid out and built within twenty years:
It contains about seventy tolerably good houses, with a court-house,
where upstairs, is the present place of worship, common to all sects
like Bedford, until a church, which is to be in common also, is
erected, for which the town has petitioned the assembly to enable them
to raise $3000 by lottery.

We stopped at Webster’s excellent, comfortable, and well furnished inn,
where we found good fires, a good supper, and a series of the Baltimore
Daily Advertiser.

Since I had come over the three mountains between Strasburgh and
Ramsay’s, the principal subject of conversation along the road, was
concerning the murder by two Frenchmen of a Mr. David Pollock, on the
23d of this month, on Allegheny mountain. {54} They had shot him, and
when he fell in consequence from his horse, they dragged him off the
road into the wood, and stabbed him with a knife in several places.
He was soon after discovered dead by a company of packers, who had
seen two men but a little while before, and had heard soon after, the
reports of a double barrelled gun carried by one of them. This, and the
meeting of a horse with a saddle and saddle-bags, and no rider, gave
them a suspicion, and induced them to search in the wood, following the
tracks of men from the road into the wood, to the body. After returning
to the road they again saw the two men whom they suspected come out of
the woods before them. They pursued them, but lost sight of them at a
turning in the road, where they again took into the woods. The packers
rode on to the next house and gave an alarm, which soon mustered the
inhabitants of the neighbourhood, who arming themselves, went in
pursuit of the murderers. One of them resisting, when discovered, was
shot, and the other apprehended, and lodged in Somerset gaol.

I had been informed that the prisoner neither spoke, nor understood
English, and that since his apprehension, he had no interpreter with
him, except a German farmer, who understood French but badly. Impelled
by humanity, I asked my landlord to accompany me to visit him. He was
a poor, ignorant, abject, pusillanimous wretch of the name of Noel
Hugue, and had lately arrived in America from Marseilles, where he had
been a traiteur or cook. He denied the murder or any knowledge of it,
but his story was inconsistent and dissatisfactory. On my informing
him of the motives of my visit, he was very grateful. I advised him
to write to any persons at New York or Philadelphia, where he had
staid some time after his arrival, who might have it in their power
to send him any testimonial of character; {55} and, as I thought his
case desperate, to write to his friends or connections in France, and
that the court before which he would be tried, or whatever lawyer was
charged with his defence, would forward his letters. On my return
to the inn a Mr. Leiper, a young gentleman just called to the bar,
requested me to accompany him to the gaol, to interpret between him
and the prisoner, as he intended voluntarily to undertake his defence,
although it was so unpopular as not to be unattended with personal
danger, in the irritated state of mind of the country. I complied with
his request, but from the interview, I had no reason to expect his
humane attempt would be, or ought to be successful.[23]


FOOTNOTES:

[19] Part of the log building, which formed the garrison here, and
which was erected by the troops of Geo. III. king of Great Britain,
still exists, and has been newly weatherboarded lately, and now forms a
kitchen to a tavern.--CRAMER.

[20] In the summer of 1809, the foundation of a new Presbyterian church
was laid in Bedford opposite the court-house for the Rev Mr. Boyd’s
congregation, a young clergyman of handsome talents, and who had
settled here a short time before.--CRAMER..

[21] It is perhaps worth while for the sake of a curious and important
fact, to mention the extraordinary effects of the water on a gentleman
who had visited this spring in the summer of 1809, and who before he
left it, discharged from his bowels a _living monster_, described by
some who saw it, as a _lizard_, by others a _crab_, with legs, claws,
&c. and of considerable size.--The unhappy man had been ill for several
years, without being able to get any relief by the aid of skilful
physicians. Immediately after this, he began to recover, and is now in
a fair way of regaining his health.

Of the four classes of mineral waters known, the water of this spring
unites the qualities of at least _three_ of them, viz. The _saline_,
the _sulphurous_, and the _martial_--but of the second it is lightly
tinctured. Its usual effects on people in health, are those of an
immediate and powerful _diuretick_, a gentle _cathartick_, with a
considerable increase of _perspiration_, and sometimes a slight
_emetick_, this last happening but very seldom. The water may be
drank in great quantities with safety, from two to thirty half pints,
being the usual quantity in the course of an hour before breakfast.
Some indeed drink fifty half pints, while others are considerably
incommoded by drinking a gill, which was the case with Mrs. Snyder,
wife of governor Snyder, whose death was lately announced. She was at
the spring, August 1809, but her case, which was of the consumptive
kind, was too far gone to admit of recovery. Not being able to take the
water, she tarried but a few days, and returned to Lancaster with her
companion, Miss ----

The following Latin poem written by James Ross, teacher of the
languages in the Philadelphia academy, formerly of Chambersburgh, and
author of an excellent grammar, with its translation in prose by the
Rev. Mr. Willson, teacher of the languages in Bedford, descriptive
of this spring, and the quality of its waters, &c. will be read with
pleasure.

  J. ANDERSON, M. D.
  Hos versiculos symbolum amicitiæ inscribit,
  _JA. ROSS_,
  IN PONTEM BEDFORDIÆ SALUTAREM.

  Monte decurrens, velut amnis, alto,
  Fons, loquax nunquam, tacitus recedis,
  Abditus terris, catebrasque celans
                            Fluminis unda.

  Non alis campos virides vel agros;
  Non greges pascis, vitulosque vaccas;
  Non tuæ ripæ generant leones
                        Dente furentes.

  Sed tuas undas celebrant Puellæ,
  Femulæ et Matres, Puerique Sponsi,
  Has Senes undas adamant Anusque
                          Ore bibentes.

  Hisque gaudentes Homines levabunt
  Pectoris morbos, capitis dolores;
  Aurium sensus, laterumque pœnas
                        Sæpe lavando.

  Has bibant isti quibus est podagra;
  Has quibus tussis mala, nec fuganda
  Artibus, cura aut Medici periti;
                        Namque levabunt.

  Quin et afflicti, ac oculisque lumbis
  Has bibant undas, stomacho dolentes;
  Pauperes, dites, recreentque corpus
                          Sæpe bibendo.

  Has bibant undas vacui, salubres;
  Nil nocent salus Puerisve Nymphis:
  Pauperes multi hæc, simul atque dites,
                          Dicere possunt.

  Bedfordiæ, (Pennsylvanorum) quarto }
         Kal. Septembres, A.D. 1809. }

                                  _Bedford Gazette._

_TRANSLATION_

_To John Anderson, M. D. the following Verses are inscribed, as a token
of Friendship, by the Author James Ross_

ON THE MEDICINAL SPRING OF BEDFORD

From the base of a lofty mountain issuing, O fountain, thy profusion
of waters, thou sendest forth in silence, from thy fountain, deep in
earth’s womb embowled, them mingling with the stream, which murmurs
below, thou loosest. No verdant plains, nor verdant fields are
nourished by thy stream irriguous. Nor flocks, nor younglings of the
herd dost thou with food supply. To no prowling beasts of prey, do thy
shady, thy romantick banks, afford shelter or refuge. _Hence_, blooming
virgins gay, matrons old, and aged sires, and youths lately in wedlock
joined: greatly delight to saunter along thy streams; _and, in the cool
refreshing shade_, to quaff thy healing waters.

While, with heartfelt satisfaction, the valetudinarian, in the waters
of this fountain, laves himself, the diseases of the breast--the pains
of the head--the distresses of the side--and deafness, _which prevents
the ear from drinking in the rich melodies of musick_, all shrink
from the healing efficacy of the healthful element. Let those drink
whom the gout torments, and those whom the distressing cough annoys,
diseases, which yield not to the art or care of the physician, however
learned. In drinking, they certain aid shall find. The humble cottager,
and wealthy lord, however weakened by disease shall re-invigorate
their systems, by drinking these waters. Tender eyes shall regain
their strength--lost powers of digestion shall again return--and the
enfeebled loins, with new strength be girded. Let the sons of leisure,
and votaries of amusement, on these health preserving waters regale
themselves. The vigorous young man, and the rosy cheeked, from them
receives no harm. Rich and poor innumerous, can well attest the truths
I sing.

  _Ibid._--CRAMER.


[22] The Allegheny Ridge is in fact but twenty-five hundred feet
in height. The White Mountains of New Hampshire and the Cumberland
Mountains of North Carolina and Tennessee exceed it in altitude.--ED.

[23] This man was hung at Somerset after April court, 1807. He
positively denied to the last of having any knowledge of the crime for
which he was about to suffer death. He also declared his companion, who
was shot in taking him, innocent, and as having no knowledge of the
circumstance of the death of Pollock.--CRAMER.




CHAPTER VII

 Proceed on journey--Political parties--Laurel
    hill--Chesnut-hills--Greensburgh--Bad road--Fine prospect--
    Pittsburgh.


The 1st February at 4 A. M. I left Somerset in a sleigh, a good deal
of snow having fallen the day before. One of the gentlemen and the
little girl having quitted the stage, my companions now were only a
Mr. M’Kinley, of West Liberty near Wheeling in Virginia, one of the
representatives in the state assembly, returning home from Richmond,
and a Mr. Archer of Centreville in Ohio, returning home also, from
a circuitous voyage and journey to New Orleans {56} and Baltimore;
during which he had visited the Havanna, and New Providence in the
Bahamas.--As we all possessed some information different from each
other, we beguiled our journey by conversation pleasantly enough,
except when politicks were introduced, on which, my fellow travellers
being of opposite sentiments, I was sometimes under the necessity of
starting some new subject, to prevent their being wrought up to an
irritation of temper, which not only prevented cool argument, but
sometimes in spite of my endeavours to the contrary, arose to such a
height as to nearly approach to personalities.

Politicks, throughout the whole of this country, seems to be the
most irritable subject which can be discussed. There are two ruling
or prevailing parties; one, which styles itself _Federal_, founded
originally on the federal league or constitution which binds the states
to each other; in contradistinction to a party which attempted to
prevent the concurrence of the states to the present constitution, and
after it was agreed to, made some fruitless attempts to disorganize
it, and was called _Antifederal_. The opposite party is one which has
since sprung up and styles itself the Democratick Republican. Since
the federal constitution has been established, the first party exists
no longer except _in name_. _That_ which assumes it, stickles for the
offices of government being executed with a high hand, and is therefore
accused of aristocratick and even of monarchick sentiments by its
opponents, who in their turn are termed factious, and disorganizers,
by the federalists. They nickname each other _Aristocrats_ and
_Democrats_, and it is astonishing to what a height their mutual
animosity is carried. They are not content with declaiming against
each other in congress, or in the state legislatures, but they
introduce the subject even at the bars of the judicial courts, and
in the pulpits of the places of religious worship. In some places,
{57} the males who might otherwise be on terms of friendship with
each other, are, merely on account of their diversity of sentiment on
politicks, avowed and illiberal enemies; and the females carry the
spirit of party into their coteries, so far as to exclude every female
whose husband is of a different political opinion, however amiable,
and ornamental to society she may be. The most illiberal opinions
are adopted by each party, and it is sufficient with a federalist
that another man is a republican, to pronounce him capable of every
crime; while the republican takes care not to allow the federalist the
smallest of the attributes of virtue.--Their _general_ difference of
opinion, at last becomes _particular_, and a mistaken point of honour
frequently hurries the one or the other maniack into a premature
grave.--The political wheel is kept in constant motion by those two
parties, who monopolize it to themselves, to the exclusion of the
moderate, well disposed, and best informed part of the community; who
quietly pursue their several avocations, lamenting at, yet amused by
the bickerings, disputes and quarrels of the turbulent and ambitious
leaders of the parties, and their ignorant, prejudiced and obstinate
tools--satisfied with the unexampled prosperity they enjoy as a people
and a nation--and equally watchful perhaps to guard against tyranny or
licentiousness, with the violent and avowed opponents of both.

After travelling seven miles through the glades, a rather barren and
thinly settled plain, we crossed a bridge over Laurel hill creek, a
mile beyond which we began to ascend Laurel hill, which we continued
to do two miles further to Evart’s tavern, where we breakfasted. Six
miles more, brought us to the beginning of the descent westerly, there
being several settlements on each side the road between the ridges of
the mountain in that distance. From this point we had an extensive view
as far west as the eye could {58} reach, over and beyond Chesnut hills.
After descending two miles, we crossed Indian creek at the foot of the
mountain. I now remarked that the woods were much thicker, and the
trees larger and taller, than the same species to the eastward. A mile
from Indian creek, Mr. M’Kinley pointed out one of the finest farms
between Philadelphia and Pittsburgh, owned by one M’Mullen, an Irishman.

At 10 A. M. we changed horses and our sleigh for a stage wagon, two
miles from M’Mullen’s, at M’Ginnis’s, perhaps the dirtiest tavern on
the whole road. We then continued ten miles over a very broken hilly
country, with rich valleys, crossing a high ridge called Chesnut hills,
from whence the western country is spread out under the view, like an
immense forest, appearing flat from the height we were at, though it
is in fact, as we found it, very hilly. We crossed the river Sewickly,
a fine mill stream, by a bridge, ten miles from M’Ginnis’s, and eight
miles further we arrived at Greensburgh, the capital of Westmoreland
county, which we had entered at the eastern foot of Laurel hill.

Greensburgh is a compact, well built, snug little town, of about
a hundred houses, with a handsome court-house, a Presbyterian
meeting-house, and a market-house.[24]

On entering Habach’s tavern, I was no little surprised to see a fine
coal fire, and I was informed that coal is the principal fuel of the
country fifty or sixty miles round Pittsburgh. It is laid down at the
doors here for six cents a bushel.

After supper we were joined by a Mr. Holly, a doctor, and another
gentleman, residents of the town, according to the custom of the
country, where the inhabitants are in habits of collecting what
information they can from travellers. We had a long political
discussion, originating on the subject of Col. Burr’s projects;
and amongst the six present, there {59} were no two who agreed in
sentiment. Indeed, in this country every man thinks for himself, or
at least he imagines he does, and would suppose himself insulted, was
another to attempt _openly_ to bias his opinion; but notwithstanding
this supposed liberty of sentiment, superior talents when united to
ambition, seldom fail of drawing the mass after them. The conversation
of this evening was both amusing and instructive; some of the party,
particularly Mr. Holly, a New England man, being possessed of very good
information, and the arguments were conducted with cool, dispassionate
reasoning.

About 8 o’clock, the landlord, who was a German, came into the room and
offered to light us to bed: My fellow travellers complied, but I told
him I should sit up two hours longer. The old man repeated my words,
“two hours,” shrugged up his shoulders and went off, while I literally
kept my word, amused by a series of three or four of the last Baltimore
Federal Gazettes. On going to bed, and finding the bed clothes very
light, I added the covering of another bed in the room to mine, which I
left so in the morning as a hint to the house.

At five o’clock next morning, we resumed our journey, and found very
little snow on the road, though there was so much on the mountains
behind us.

The aspect of the country is similar to what it is between the Laurel
hills and Greensburgh. Hills running in ridges from north to south,
heavily wooded with white oak, walnut, sugar tree and other timber
natural to the climate; and the valleys narrow, but rich and all
settled.

At eight miles from Greensburgh, we passed on our right an excellent
house and fine farm of a Col. Irwin, one of the assistant judges; and
three miles further we stopped to change horses and breakfast at {60}
Stewart’s, where we were charged only a quarter of a dollar each.

We soon after entered Allegheny county. The weather was cold and
clear, and very pleasant for the season, but the country afforded no
variety, being still, hill, dale, woods, and scattering farms. At nine
miles from Stewart’s, we descended a very long and steep hill, by a
shocking road, crossed Turtle creek at the bottom, which runs to the
southward to join the river Monongahela, 12 miles above its confluence
with the Allegheny; we then ascended another hill by an equally bad
and dangerous road. It is astonishing that in so fine and so improving
a country more attention is not paid to the roads. A turnpike is
projected from Pittsburgh to Harrisburgh, which I am clearly of
opinion, might be kept in repair by a reasonable toll;--and then wagons
with goods may travel between the two places in a third less time than
they do now, and without the present great risks of breaking down, and
the mails may be delivered at the post-offices one half sooner.

When about seven miles from Pittsburgh, we had a picturesque view
of the Monongahela on the left, which was soon hid again by the
intervening hills; and when within three miles of that town, the view
was beautiful over the fine low cultivated level, or bottom, as it is
called, which skirts the river Allegheny from thence to Pittsburgh,
which is seen at the confluence of that river with the Monongahela;
beyond which, the high and steep coal hill crowned by a farm house
most romantically situated, seems to impend directly over the glass
manufactury, on the bank of the river opposite the town.

The last two miles was along the fine level above mentioned, passing
on the right, between the road and the Allegheny, the handsome seat
of Mr. John Woods, a respectable lawyer;[25] and immediately after,
{61} we passed Fort Fayette, a stockaded post on the right[26]--entered
Pittsburgh, and put up at Wm. M’Cullough’s excellent inn.


FOOTNOTES:

[24] For an account of Greensburgh, see Michaux’s _Travels_, vol. iii
of this series, p. 153, note 16.--ED.

[25] John Woods was one of the two first lawyers in Pittsburg, being
admitted to the bar from Allegheny County in 1786. He represented the
city in Congress from 1815-17.--ED.

[26] For Fort Fayette, see Michaux’s _Travels_, vol. iii of this
series, p. 32, note 12.--ED.




CHAPTER VIII

 Unprepossessing appearance of Pittsburgh--Causes--Comfortable
    situation--Abundance of coal--M’Cullough’s inn--Confinement there
    by indisposition--Attention of some of the inhabitants--Memoirs
    of an uncommon character--Apollonian society--Dramatick
    societies--Lawyers--Clergymen--State of society injured by politicks
    and other causes--Physicians.


The appearance of Pittsburgh in the winter, is by no means pleasing,
notwithstanding its fine situation, as, none of the streets being
paved except Market street,[27] they are so extremely miry, that it is
impossible to walk them without wading over the ankle, except during
frosty weather, which rarely continues many days successively, from
its lying so low, and being so well sheltered, by the surrounding
hills. This, though unpleasant now, is in reality in favour of the
place, as when the streets are all paved, that inconvenience will be
obviated, and the advantage of shelter from the bleak wintry winds will
still remain, without its being followed by an exclusion of fresh air
during the summer, as the rivers, at that season act as ventilators,
a refreshing breeze always drawing up or down one of them, increasing
{62} with the elevation of the sun until noon, and then gradually
subsiding into a calm towards sunset; while at a little distance
from those air conductors (the rivers) even in high situations, an
oppressive heat not rarified by the most gentle zephyr, prevails during
the same time.

Another cause of the unprepossessing appearance of Pittsburgh, proceeds
from the effect of one of the most useful conveniences and necessaries
of life, which it enjoys in a pre-eminent degree; namely, fuel,
consisting of as fine coal as any in the world, in such plenty, so
easily wrought, and so near the town, that it is delivered in wagons
drawn by four horses, at the doors of the inhabitants, at the rate of
five cents per bushel.

A load of forty bushels which costs only two dollars, will keep two
fires in a house a month, and in consequence, there are few houses,
even amongst the poorest of the inhabitants, where at least two fires
are not used--one for cooking, and another for the family to sit at.
This great consumption of a coal abounding in sulphur, and its smoke
condensing into a vast quantity of lampblack, gives the outside of the
houses a dirty and disagreeable appearance--even more so than in the
most populous towns of Great Britain, where a proportionably great
quantity of coal is used; which must be caused by a difference of
quality, which appears in the grate to be in favour of the coal of this
country.

The winter being too far advanced for boats to descend the Ohio, I
preferred remaining in Pittsburgh, until I should have an opportunity
of continuing my journey to the westward by water, to going on
immediately by land, as I wished to see the banks of that celebrated
river, as far as it lay in my route.

I therefore became a weekly boarder and lodger at M’Cullough’s, which
though an inn much frequented by travellers, I found to be as quiet, as
regular, {63} and as orderly, as any private lodging house; the beds
equally cleanly, the table more plentiful, and the charge as moderate.
As M’Cullough lays himself out to accommodate travellers, or regular
lodgers, he applies himself solely to that, and discourages every thing
which might subject his house to the noise, revelry, and confusion of
a tavern. His wife an amiable and obliging woman, and three daughters,
fine and good girls just grown up, attend to the business of the house,
and the accommodation of their guests, so well, that a man must be
fastidious to a fault, who would not be perfectly satisfied with such
quarters.

The streets being extremely dirty, and my foot still paining me much
from the consequence of its being blistered on my journey between
Lancaster and Middleton, I confined myself to the house for several
days after my arrival, going out only once during that time, to call on
general O’Hara[28] and Mr. Abner Barker on business. Confinement is at
any time unpleasant; but at an inn, however good the accommodation, in
a strange place, without a single acquaintance, and suffering continued
torture from an inflammation in a limb, the pain of which would have
prevented my enjoying a book, even had there been a library within my
reach, was to me excessively so.

A few neighbouring gentlemen hearing that a stranger was at
M’Cullough’s confined by indisposition, did me the favour of calling
on me, and the attentions of doctor Andrew Richardson, Mr. James
Mountain, a learned practitioner at the bar, and Messrs. Anthony Beelen
and Nicholas Cunningham respectable merchants, prevented my being able
to charge Pittsburgh with an _absolute_ want of hospitality. The two
former offered me the use of their judiciously selected libraries, when
I should become sufficiently convalescent to go out, and the perusal
of any of their books in the interim, and the first supplied {64} me
with the Philadelphia and Baltimore newspapers as they arrived by post,
twice weekly.

A few evenings after my arrival, the daughters of my host had a
numerous party of young people of both sexes to spend the evening and
practice vocal musick under the directions of a Mr. Tyler who had
taught them. They displayed taste and harmony enough to do honour to
their venerable teacher, and I was tempted to join the sounds of my
flute to the sweet treble of some of the young ladies. This led to
a degree of confidence to me from Mr. Tyler, who on retiring to bed
in the same room, imparted to me his little history, which though
not replete with incident, was singular and affecting, exhibiting
generous benevolent simplicity, a victim to vice and ingratitude. He
was an Englishman, and had been one of the choristers of a cathedral
in England from whence he had emigrated to America, when a young man.
He had exercised his talent in teaching sacred musick, in the eastern
part of Pennsylvania, until he had acquired a sufficiency to purchase a
farm in the neighbourhood of Carlisle, where he and his wife settled.
They were childless--an infant foundling which they chanced to see,
impressed them with the idea of supplying themselves with what nature
had denied them. They took the boy home, adopted him as their son, and
spared neither pains nor expence to give him the best education the
country afforded. He grew up a most promising youth, and bid fair to
reward them for their parental cares, by smoothing their decline of
life, with a return of those attentions which they had lavished on him
from his helpless childhood. The lad was a good accomptant, and was
placed with a storekeeper in Carlisle, until he was supposed by his
benefactors sufficiently versed in business, to manage for himself.
Tyler then expended the savings of many years industry to furnish for
him a respectable country store. The young {65} man commenced business
with the fairest prospects, but he had unfortunately contracted habits
of drinking and gambling. His business was neglected, one loss followed
another, but he had the art of still imposing on the unsuspecting
simplicity of his blindly partial and generous patron, until he
prevailed on him to be his security for larger sums than his remaining
stock of goods would pay. He then absconded, his creditors sued the
old man, who to save himself from prison was obliged to dispose of
his farm, and after paying the debts of the ungrateful prodigal, with
the very small sum which remained to him, he and his wife last year
at upwards of sixty years of age each, crossed the mountains, at an
inclement season, and purchased a small tract of land about seven miles
from Pittsburgh, on which he has since erected a cottage, and where
he has cleared and cultivated a few acres, and to enable himself to
make his payments, he has taught sacred vocal musick in this town and
the surrounding country these two successive winters. His enthusiasm
for vocal harmony, and his innocent unsuspecting simplicity, untainted
during a long life, by worldly craft, and still believing the mass of
mankind as honest and virtuous as himself, notwithstanding the trying
proof he had experienced of its baseness, rendered him a singular
and original character; I say _original_, for I much question,
whether any person into whose hands these sheets may fall, can turn
his eye inwardly, and exclaim with a conscience void of offence and
selfishness, I too am a general philanthropist, like the good old
English singing master.

Several musical amateurs are associated here under the title of the
_Apollonian Society_. I visited it by invitation at the house of Mr. F.
Amelung the acting President, and was most agreeably surprised to hear
a concert of instrumental musick performed by about a dozen gentlemen
of the town, with a degree {66} of taste and execution, which I could
not have expected in so remote a place. I was particularly astonished
at the performance on the violin of Mr. Gabler, a German, employed at
Gen. O’Hara’s glass house, and who is one of the society. His natural
talents for musick were so great, that he could not bear the trammels
of a scientifick acquisition of it, and therefore never learned a
note, yet he joins a correct extempore harmony, to the compositions
of Hayden, Pleyel, Bach, Mozart and the other celebrated composers,
particularly in their lively movements; he is not quite so happy in his
accompaniments of Handel, or of grand or solemn musick generally. His
execution of Waltz’s is in a sweet and tasty style, and he has composed
by ear and committed to memory several pieces, which impress the hearer
with regret, that they must die with their author. Indeed he now (when
too late) regrets himself, that he had not in his youth, and when he
had great opportunities, added science to natural taste.

The Apollonian society is principally indebted for its formation to the
labours of Mr. S. H. Dearborn,[29] a New England man, who came here
about a year ago, to exercise the profession of a portrait painter, and
being a very versatile genius, and having some knowledge of, and taste
for musick, he soon discovered all the respectable people who were
harmoniously inclined, and succeeded in associating them into a regular
society, which meets one evening every week, and consists not only of
those who can take parts, but also of many of the most respectable
inhabitants of the town, who do not play, but who become members, for
the sake of admission for themselves and families to the periodical
concerts.

There are also two dramatick societies in Pittsburgh, {67} one composed
of the students of law, and the other of respectable mechanicks. They
occasionally unite with each other in order to cast the pieces to be
performed with more effect. The theatre is in the great room of the
upper story of the court-house, which from its size, and having several
other contiguous apartments which serve for green room, dressing rooms,
&c. is very well adapted to that purpose. It is neatly fitted up under
the direction of Mr. Dearborn, whose mechanical genius has rendered him
a useful associate of the disciples of Thespis; whether as machinist,
dresser, scene painter and shifter or actor; particularly in the part
of the garrulous Mrs. Bulgruddery in John Bull, which he performs with
much respectability. Mr. W. Wilkins[30] excels in genteel comedy; Mr.
Johnston does justice to the part of an Irishman; Mr. Haslet to that
of a Yorkshire farmer or country squire; Mr. Linton in low comedy is
the Edwin of Pittsburgh, and Mr. Van Baun would be an ornament to
any established theatre, either in the sock or the buskin, he being
equally excellent in Octavian as in Fribble. The female characters
being sustained by young men, are deficient of that grace and modest
vivacity, which are natural to the fair sex, and which their grosser
lords and masters vainly attempt to copy. On the whole however, the
dramatick societies, exhibit in a very respectable manner, a rational
entertainment to the inhabitants of Pittsburgh about once monthly
through the winter. They have hitherto confined themselves to the
comick walk, but I have no doubt, that if they appear in the buskin,
they will do equal credit to tragedy.

Some of the gentlemen of the bar resident here, are very respectable
in the profession of the law. Mr. Ross, formerly a senator, and set up
in unsuccessful opposition to Mr. M’Kean, for governor of the state,
is an orator of the first abilities--his oratory {68} being clear,
intelligible and impressive.[31] Mr. Mountain, to deep learning, adds
careful investigation of the cause of his client, and is apt and happy
in his quotations. Mr. W. Wilkins is by nature an orator. His person,
action, and gesture are favourable to him--his words flow at will in
a style of manly and bold oratory which commands attention.--He has
no occasion to study his periods, they form themselves--he enters in
earnest into the cause of his client, and rarely fails to give it its
full weight--but perhaps he sometimes works himself up into too great
warmth of language, which may be occasioned by the glowing impulse
of youth operating on a fertile fancy--he apparently not exceeding
twenty-five years of age. Mr. Addison,[32] Mr. Semple, Mr. Woods, Mr.
Baldwin, and Mr. Collins[33] are spoken of as very able practitioners,
but as I had not the pleasure of witnessing their exertions at the bar,
I cannot take it upon me to describe their talents, even was I adequate
to it.

There are five societies of Christians, which have each an established
minister--Mr. Steele[34] the pastor of one of the Presbyterian
societies, possesses all that liberality of sentiment and Christian
charity inculcated by the divine founder of his religion, and dignifies
the pulpit by his clear and pleasing exposition of the scriptures. Mr.
Taylor the Episcopal minister, is an able mathematician, a liberal
philosopher, and a man of unaffected simplicity of manners. His
discourses from the pulpit are good moral lectures, well adapted to
the understanding of his hearers. He is an assistant teacher in the
academy. Of Mr. Boggs,[35] the minister of the other Presbyterian
society, {69} or of Mr. Black, the minister of a large society of a
sect of Presbyterians called covenanters, I am not adequate to speak,
not having yet heard either officiate. Mr. Sheva,[36] pastor of a
congregation of German Lutherans, is a man of liberal morality, and a
lively social companion. There are here several Roman Catholicks,[37]
Methodists,[38] and Anabaptists--who have as yet no established place
of worship, but who occasionally meet to profit by the exhortations of
some of their spiritual directors, who travel this way. On the whole,
the religious sects appear to be more free here than in most places I
have visited, from those illiberal and anti-christian prejudices, which
render Christianity the scoff of even the ignorant Indians, whom we
term savages.

But though difference of religious opinions does not cause any
animosity here, politicks have reduced society to a most deplorable
state. There are two parties, which style themselves Federal
republicans, and Democratick republicans, but who speaking of each
other, leave out the word _republican_, and call each other Federalists
and Democrats. I have already described their opinions, which are
argued with more warmth, and are productive of more rancour and
violence in Pittsburgh than perhaps in any other part of America.[39]
There are very few neutrals, {70} as it requires a bold independence of
sentiment, to prevent a person from attaching himself to one or other
party, and besides, to a man who has not resources for the employment
of time within himself, the alternative of not being of one or other
party is insupportable, as he is shunned equally by both, and in this
populous town lives with respect to society, as though he were in a
desert. This may be one cause that Pittsburgh is not celebrated for
its hospitality, another, (which is equally applicable to most new
settled towns,) is that it is inhabited by people who have fixed here
for the express purpose of making money. This employs the whole of
their time and attention, when they are not occupied by politicks, and
leaves them no leisure to devote to the duties of hospitality. Another
cause, which one would scarcely suspect, is pride. Those who from the
adventitious circumstance of having settled here at an early period,
and purchased, or became possessed of landed property, when from its
very low value, it was obtained in the most easy manner, for a mere
trifle, now find themselves rich suddenly, from its rapid increase in
value. Those who came after them, had not the same opportunities, and
of course were not so fortunate. Wealth acquired suddenly, generally
operates on the ignorant, to make them wish to seem as if they had
always been in the same situation; and in affecting the manners and
appearance of the great, they always overact their part, and assume
airs of superiority {71} even over the really well born and well bred
part of the community, who have been reduced from a more affluent
situation, by misfortune, or who have not been so fortunate as
themselves in acquiring what stands the possessor in lieu of descent,
and all the virtues and accomplishments. This accounts for the pride
which generally pervades the fortunate first settlers, but it is
carried to such extravagant excess, that I have been credibly informed
that some of the females of this class have styled themselves and their
families the _Well born_, to distinguish them from those not quite
so wealthy, forgetting that some among them could not tell who had
been their ancestors in the second generation. This is all matter of
ridicule and amusement to a person possessed of the least philosophy.
There is also a very numerous class, which assumes a certain air of
superiority throughout this whole country--I mean the lawyers. They
(even their students and pupils) arrogate to themselves the title or
epithet of esquire, which the uninformed mass of the people allow them;
and as, by intrigue, they generally fill all the respectable offices in
the government as well as the legislature, they assume to themselves a
consequence to which they are in no other way entitled.

The profession of physick is also on a very respectable footing in
this town. There being four established physicians.--Doctors Bedford,
Richardson,[40] Stevenson, and Mowry,[41] all of considerable practice,
experience, and reputation.[42]

I shall defer an account of the situation, history and present state of
Pittsburgh, until I have finished {72} my tour to the westward, when I
shall have obtained more information on so important a subject.


FOOTNOTES:

[27] Since the above was written the greater part of Wood street has
been paved, Front and Third streets from Market to Wood, Diamond alley
gravelled, and Chancery lane paved from the river to Second street, and
preparations are making to pave others this season, 1810.--CRAMER.

[28] General James O’Hara embarked in the Indian trade near Fort
Pitt about 1773. On the outbreak of the Revolution, he enlisted in
the ninth Virginia regiment, but was soon employed as quartermaster,
also serving in that capacity in the Whiskey Insurrection (1793), and
Wayne’s Campaign against the Indians (1794). His business talents and
enterprise were employed in building up the new town of Pittsburg,
where at its inception he had purchased much land. In 1797, he built
the first glass manufactory west of the Alleghenies; about the same
time he made arrangements to transport salt by water from Onondaga, New
York, greatly cheapening the price of that necessity. In 1804, O’Hara
was made director of the branch of the Bank of Pennsylvania established
at Pittsburg; and on his death (1819) left a large estate to his heirs.
General O’Hara was generous and patriotic as well as enterprising. He
was a friend of Washington, and served as elector when the latter was
chosen president in 1788.--ED.

[29] Son of Mr. Benjamin Dearborn, of Boston, much celebrated for his
mechanical and inventive genius.--CRAMER.

[30] William Wilkins, at this time but a young lawyer, afterwards
became distinguished in American political circles. He served as state
and federal judge from 1820-28; three years later he was elected to
the United States Senate; and in 1834, was sent by President Jackson
as minister to Russia. Wilkins was in Congress again in 1842; and when
Upshire and Gilmer were killed (1844), President Tyler appointed him
Secretary of War.--ED.

[31] James Ross was one of the most eminent of Pittsburg’s early
lawyers. Born in 1761, he was admitted to the bar in 1791, and three
years later chosen to fill out Gallatin’s term in the United States
Senate, wherein by re-election he served until 1803. Ross was a staunch
Federalist, and ran three times unsuccessfully upon that ticket for
governor of Pennsylvania, twice (1799 and 1802) against McKean.
Although a Federalist, he had sufficiently imbibed Western views to
advocate, while a senator, the forcible seizure of New Orleans from
the Spaniards. After retiring from politics (1803), he practiced law
until his death in 1847, being considered the leader of the Pittsburg
bar.--ED.

[32] Since dead.--CRAMER.

[33] Cuming has here given a summary of the noted members of the
Pittsburg bar at the time of his visit. Steel Semple made a specialty
of land cases, and had great influence with juries. Henry Baldwin was
afterwards distinguished in politics, serving in Congress 1817-23;
seven years later he was appointed to the supreme court of the United
States, wherein he served until his death in 1846. Thomas Collins
was an able and successful lawyer, with high social connections. For
a sketch of Judge Addison, see Harris’s _Journal_, vol. iii of this
series, p. 363, note 46.--ED.

[34] Mr. Steele died March 22, 1810.--CRAMER.

[35] Removed to near Fredericksburgh, Virginia. His place has been
filled by the Rev. Mr. Hunt, who officiates to the second Presbyterian
congregation.--CRAMER.

[36] Removed to St. Louis, Louisiana.--CRAMER.

[37] The Catholicks have lately erected a small but handsome brick
church of one story at the north east end of Liberty street, the
ground for which, I understand, was gratuitously presented to them by
Gen. O’Hara. The inside work of the church is yet in an unfinished
state.--CRAMER.

[38] The Methodists are now engaged in collecting a voluntary
subscription for either the building, or the purchase of a house for
the use of their society.--CRAMER.

[39] Our author was here at a time when politicks ran high the
colouring he has given the rancour, in consequence, among the
inhabitants, may be a little too deep. Be this as it may, party
politicks, or at least, political rancour, has subsided, and the
citizens generally, intermingle in social societies, and interchange
the various offices of friendship and of trade without interruption,
however they may differ in political sentiment, or be opposed to
each other in the election of the various candidates to publick
office. Conceiving, perhaps, that a moderate difference of political
opinion, is a natural consequence of our political institutions, and a
requisite to their existence in the purity in which they were at first
established.--CRAMER.

[40] Died, August 1809.--CRAMER.

[41] Of these early Pittsburg physicians, Dr. Nathaniel Bedford came
out as a surgeon in the British army, and located here in 1765; his
colleague, Dr. Stevenson, arrived about the same time and later served
as a Revolutionary soldier. Dr. Mowry entered the office of Bedford as
an apprentice (1786), attended lectures under Dr. Rush at Philadelphia,
and attained high rank in his profession.--ED.

[42] There are three others established here lately, a German, a
French, and an English physician, the latter of whom is of the
Friends’ society, of the name of Pennington, considerably advanced in
years. He came to this place in the fall of 1809, and is said to be
skilful.--CRAMER.




CHAPTER IX

 Departure from Pittsburgh--The Allegheny, Monongahela, and Ohio
    rivers--Brunot’s island--unfortunate death of two gentlemen--
    Baldwin’s mill--Neville’s island--Middletown--Logstown--Beaver
    creek--Beaver town--Fort M’Intosh.


On the 18th July, 1807, accompanied by my intelligent and valuable
friend A----, I departed from Pittsburgh, in a batteau, or flat
bottomed skiff, twenty feet long, very light, and the stern sheets
roofed with very thin boards, high enough to sit under with ease, and
long enough to shelter us when extended on the benches for repose,
should we be benighted occasionally on the river, with a side curtain
of tow cloth as a screen from either the sun or the night air. We
had a pair of short oars, or rather long paddles, for one person to
work both, and a broad paddle to steer with; and a mast, and a lug or
square sail to set when the wind should favour us; we had a good stock
of cold provisions and liquors. The river being neither flooded, nor
very low, was just in that state, to promise a pleasant passage to its
navigators. The current running between two and three miles an hour,
allowed time to examine every thing worthy of curiosity, and the water
was sufficiently high to prevent delays through grounding on any of the
numerous flats, which impede the navigation of the first two hundred
miles, during the principal part of the summer and fall, and yet not so
high as to prevent our being able to see and remark all the shoals or
rocks of any consequence, which gave us an opportunity {73} of proving
Mr. Cramer’s Navigator which we had with us, of correcting it in a few
places, and of adding to it a sketch of the river, in its very winding
course, between Pittsburgh and Limestone or Maysville, in Kentucky.[43]

In a quarter of an hour after embarking on the Monongahela we passed
its confluence with the Allegheny, and entered the Ohio formed by the
other two.

The Allegheny rises between two and three hundred miles following
its different meanders, N. E. of Pittsburgh. Its current runs about
three miles an hour except in floods, when it is sometimes impelled
at the rate of six or seven. Its banks were uninhabited except by the
aborigines, and a line of distant posts fortified by the French, to
preserve the communication by this route between Canada and Louisiana,
previous to the conquest of the former country by the British in 1759;
also to prevent the extension of the Anglo-American settlements to
the westward of this river; and to command the friendship and trade
of the Indians; and to prevent as much as possible the English from
participating with them in those advantages. Within the last twenty
years, the Indians disliking the extension of the American settlements
into their neighbourhood, have abandoned this whole tract of country,
and have retired to Sandusky, about three hundred miles further west,
with the exception of a tribe under a celebrated chief called the
Cornplanter, which has a town and settlement near the Allegheny about
120 miles from Pittsburgh,[44] and which is gradually falling into an
agricultural life.[45]

{74}The Europe-American settlements (as I call them from their
consisting principally of emigrants from Britain, Ireland, and Germany,
particularly the two latter) now extend not only to the banks of the
Allegheny, but crossing that river, the country has become {75}
populous, and many thriving towns have been erected throughout the
whole country south of lake Erie, not only in Pennsylvania, but in
the adjoining new state of Ohio, which latter has been settled in
that tract, by emigrants from the state of Connecticut,[46] to whom
Pittsburgh is indebted for a good supply of cheese[47] not inferior to
English.

The navigation of the Allegheny is easy for boats called _keels_ from
fifty to seventy feet long, sharp at both ends, drawing little water,
carrying a good burthen, and calculated to be set against the stream,
so as to surmount it from eight to twenty miles a day in proportion
to the strength of the current operating against them. The water of
this river is uncommonly clear, occasioned by its gravelly bottom and
the rapidity of its current; and the fish are harder, firmer, and
more delicious, than those caught in the Monongahela, which rising in
the Laurel mountain in Virginia, pursues a northern course about two
hundred miles, (the last half of which is through a rich and populous
country) until it unites with the Allegheny at Pittsburgh. Flowing
generally through a more level country than the Allegheny, its current
{76} is much more placid, but its waters are always muddy, from which
circumstance it derives its name, which in the Indian dialect signifies
_muddy from the mouldering in of banks_. Both it and the Allegheny
abound in fish, of which the white salmon, the perch, the pike and the
cat-fish are most esteemed; there are however several other species.[48]

The Ohio into which we had now entered, takes its name from its
signifying _bloody_ in the Indian tongue, which is only a modern
appellation bestowed on it about the beginning of the last century
by the five nations, after a successful war, in which they succeeded
in subjugating some other tribes on its banks.[49] It was called by
the French _La belle Riviere_, which was a very appropriate epithet,
as perhaps throughout its long course it is not exceeded in beauty
by any other river. It was always known before as a continuation of
the Allegheny, though it more resembles the Monongahela, both in the
muddiness of its waters, and its size: the latter being about five
hundred yards wide, whereas the former is only about four hundred yards
in breadth opposite Pittsburgh.

Leaving the glass house on the left, we passed on the same hand
Saw-mill run, a mill stream with a long wooden bridge crossing it to
Elliot’s mills, the bridge forming a handsome object in the view.
Elliot has here a delightful spring, bubbling its cool pelucid water
from the side of the rocky bason which receives it, from which it is
conveyed by a pipe through his spring-house, the roof of which joins
the shed which covers the spring.

We passed Robinson’s point on the right with a fine level, or bottom,
as I shall in future according to {77} the language of the country
call all the flats between the hills and the banks of the river. This
bottom well settled and cultivated, extends to about four miles below
Pittsburgh, having Brunot’s island opposite its lower extremity. This
island contains near three hundred acres of a most luxuriant soil,
about half of which has been cleared by Dr. Brunot, a native of France,
who adds hospitality and sociality to the abundance which he derives
from his well cultivated farm.[50] He has judiciously left the timber
standing on the end of the island nearest Pittsburgh, through which,
and a beautiful locust grove of about twelve acres, an avenue from his
upper landing is led with taste and judgement about half a mile to his
house, which is a good two story cottage, with large barns, and other
appropriate offices near it, and an excellent garden and nursery. He
has fenced the farm in such a way, as to leave a delightful promenade
all round it, between the fences, and the margin of the river, which
he has purposely left fringed with the native wood about sixty yards
wide, except where occasional openings are made either for landings,
or views, the latter of which are very fine, particularly that of
M’Kee’s romantick rocks opposite, impending over the narrow rapid which
separates them from the island. M’Kee’s fine farm between the rocks
and the mouth of Chartier creek, and the creek itself, which meanders
through a great part of the rich and plentiful county of Washington,
affording also fine subjects for the landscape painter.[51]

On entering the channel to the right of Brunot’s island, I could not
avoid a sensation of melancholy, from its reminding me of the death of
my valued friend George Cochran, esq. of Natchez, who about three years
ago was drowned here together with a Mr. M’Farlane of Elizabethtown, by
the skiff, in which they were going from the shore to a brig belonging
to the latter, being carried by the current {78} against the brig’s
cable, and overset. In his death, his friends had cause to lament the
loss of a warm hearted, benevolent, generous, and properly conducted
man in every sense of the word, and the world was deprived of one of
those characters, which is occasionally but rarely allowed it, to
prevent that general obloquy to which it would otherwise be subjected
from the natural depravity of mankind.

I was not acquainted with Mr. M’Farlane, but from the manner in which
I have heard him spoken of by those who were, he merited a longer
enjoyment of this probationary life. They were found two days after, a
few miles below, brought to Pittsburgh, and interred in two adjoining
graves, in the burying ground of the new Presbyterian meeting-house.

Passing his garden, we gave and received an adieu from Dr. Brunot,
and the recollection of a social and agreeable day, which I enjoyed
with a party at his house on the 4th of this month, when he had a few
friends to commemorate that anniversary of a new era in the annals of
history, _the Independence of the United States of America_, aided to
dispel those gloomy, selfish ideas, which we who remain behind can
seldom avoid indulging, when we think on our being for ever deprived
of society which was dear to us--even though we have every reason to
be certain that they were prepared for whatever fate may await them in
futurity, and though we know that longer continuance here, might have
subjected the subject of our regret to some of those casualties in the
affairs of men, which might have embittered their future life.

The course of the river is generally about N. N. W. from Pittsburgh
to Beaver, about twenty-eight miles. We continued to descend it, our
attention occupied by frequent changes of prospect, caused by its
winding course. From the point below Brunot’s island, is a fine vista
of the river with hills on the right and {79} a bottom on the left; a
very high hill in front cultivated on the top, Baldwin’s mill on the
right three miles distant, reflected by the water to double its size;
the well frequented road to Beaver on the same hand, and farms and
farm houses in view of each other; the scenery enlivened by multitudes
of fish sporting near the surface of the glassy element. Baldwin’s
mill-house is well built of stone over a dam in the river, which
conveys the water to the wheel, from whence it runs out under the arch
which supports the house.

We had passed a small island of about three acres, called Cow island,
separated from Neville’s or Long island by a channel of one hundred and
fifty yards. This latter takes its name of _Long_ from its extending
six miles down the river from opposite Baldwin’s mill, it is narrow,
but its soil being of the first quality, it might be divided into
several good farms; there is however but one on it as yet, cultivated
for the proprietor, major Craig of Pittsburgh, who has on the middle of
the island a large but very plain wooden farm house of two stories, and
about sixty feet long.[52]

We here overtook a covered flat, with two families of the name of
Frazey, migrating from the neighbourhood of Elizabethtown in New
Jersey, to Cincinnatti in Ohio. They had embarked at Redstone on the
Monongahela.[53] The father of one of the families was dangerously ill
with a nervous fever and deranged in his intellects.

Hog island on the left just below Neville’s island, is very small, and
immediately below it also on the left we passed Middletown, lately laid
out, containing ten houses including barns, and opposite to it, a Mr.
White’s finely situated house.

From a point two miles below Middletown, the river opening gradually
into a long reach, has a fine effect to the eye. A little below the
point, a charmingly situated farm on the right exciting our inquiry,
{80} we were informed that it was squire Ways. The squire however,
was badly lodged, if he had no better house than the small log hovel
we saw on the bank. Deadman’s island a little below is small, covered
with aquatick shrubs and plants, and so low, that it must always be
inundated in moderate risings of the river, which is not _here_ more
than a hundred and fifty yards wide, and in general not exceeding two
hundred. The banks on each side abound with partridges whose responsive
calls are continually heard, interrupted by the buzz of multitudes
of large horse flies, which probably attracted by the odour of our
provisions, seemed much more pleased with our boat than we were with
them.

Eight miles below Middletown, we passed Logstown on the left: This is
a scattering hamlet, of four or five log cabins, in the neighbourhood
of which, on the opposite side of the river, a considerable tribe of
Indians resided, until after the reduction of Fort Du Quesne, now
Pittsburgh, by general Forbes in 1758.[54]

From Logstown a mile and a half to Crow’s island which is small, the
banks are very pleasant, rising gradually from the water’s edge,
and having a fine bottom on the right. Here we met two large keel
boats loaded with cotton in bales, from Nashville in Tennessee bound
to Pittsburgh, out twenty-six days. They had nine men in each--one
steering, six poling, and two resting.

Half a mile from hence on the right, is a good log house with a sign
of a white horse, kept by James Knox; in passing, it, a young woman
answered several questions we asked her very civilly; which I mention
as a rare circumstance, as the inhabitants of the banks of the Ohio,
have too generally acquired a habit, of either not deigning an answer
to the interrogatories of the numerous river travellers, or of giving
them a short and boorish one, or of turning {81} their questions into
ridicule; which proceeds from the impertinent manner in which they are
generally hailed and addressed by the people in the boats.

Two miles lower we passed a good house and a saw mill in a beautiful
rural situation on the left bank, and here we met a decent looking man,
polling a skiff against the current: He was going to Pittsburgh and had
come upwards of twenty miles since morning.

At half past four in the afternoon we were abreast of Big Beaver creek
or river on the right, five miles below the saw mill. It empties
through a level, and is about fifty yards wide at its mouth, with a
gentle current.

Some boys on the beach mischievously misinformed us respecting the
proper landing, to the town of Beaver, which is but a little way beyond
the creek, instead of which we rowed a mile lower down, and then had to
set our skiff across a bar, which extends above a mile in front of the
right bank. After landing, we had to climb a precipice to a log cabin,
on the top and edge of the cliff, near two hundred feet above the
surface of the river: Here we got directions for our path, and after a
walk of half a mile, we reached the town of Beaver.

It stands on a stony plain on the top of the high cliff which conceals
it from the river, and contains about thirty indifferent houses,
much scattered, on three parallel streets. There is a stone gaol not
quite finished, which was the only publick building we noticed.[55]
The inhabitants not finding water at a convenient depth, have, in
preference to digging very deep wells, led it by wooden pipes from
a hill near a mile from the town, and have placed publick wooden
fountains in the streets at convenient distances.

{82} We were shewn the scite of Fort M’Intosh, of which no vestige
remains except the hearth of the officers’ fire place: It is on the
edge of the cliff commanding the river. Altogether, Beaver seems to
be very badly situated on the high plain, when it ought to have been
placed at the confluence of Beaver creek with the Ohio, where there
is a bottom with room enough for a town, and an excellent landing,
and where are now two good looking houses with tavern signs. The
neighbouring high situation notwithstanding its inconveniences, was
probably preferred, on account of the superior salubrity of the air.[56]

On entering Beaver, we refreshed ourselves with six cents worth
of whiskey and water at general Lacock’s tavern. He is one of
the representatives in the assembly of the state, and has both
considerable influence and abilities. I had heard him in the house of
representatives when I was at Lancaster in the winter, and was much
entertained by the wit and humour he displayed in the course of a
debate on fixing a permanent seat of government.[57] We had not the
pleasure of seeing the general now, and proceeded from his house to
Mr. Wilson’s, one of the best in the place, conformably to a promise I
had given him in Pittsburgh. Mrs. Wilson, a very pretty woman, told us
that her husband was absent in Philadelphia:--We left our names, walked
across the street to Hemphill’s tavern, got some information respecting
the country; and then returned to our boat, meeting on our way the
constable crying at publick sale, a poor horse attached for debt, for
which the last bid was thirteen dollars twenty-five cents. It is seven
years since Beaver was laid out for a town.


FOOTNOTES:

[43] The _Navigator or Trader’s useful Guide to Navigating the
Monongahela, Allegheny, Ohio and Mississippi Rivers_ ... was published
by Zadok Cramer at Pittsburg--the same house that produced Cuming’s
_Western Tour_. Cuming doubtless had the fifth edition, issued in 1806.
The work was useful and popular, and ran through twelve editions.--ED.

[44] The former villages of the Shawnees and Delawares in the vicinity
of Pittsburg were removed at the close of the French and Indian War to
the neighborhood of the Muskingum.

Cornplanter, the chief of a large band of Senecas, was for many years
a much dreaded hostile. He is known to have been with the French at
Braddock’s defeat; later, influenced by the British agents, he took
part in the massacre at Wyoming and in many border raids. Brodhead led
out an expedition in 1779, which burned the towns of this chieftain;
and at the close of the Revolution, becoming impressed with the growing
power of the Americans, the wily warrior professed peace, assisted in
securing the treaties of Fort Stanwix (1784) and Fort Harmar (1789),
and had an interview with Washington in 1790. His professions secured
him a large reservation in the present county of Warren, Pennsylvania,
where he lived quietly until his death in 1836.--ED.

[45] In 1798, the Quakers of Philadelphia sent out a committee of three
or five, men and women, among the Cornplanters Indians, with implements
of husbandry, to instruct the poor natives in the arts of agriculture
and comfortable living. In these, with much good example, industry,
and perseverance, they have succeeded wonderfully in bringing their
red brethren to a considerable advanced state of civilization, to a
knowledge of agriculture, the mechanick arts, and a practice of the
social virtues. I had the pleasure of conversing with _Joel Swain_,
one of the members of the committee not long since, who observed,
that the farms of the natives extended several miles on both banks
of the Allegheny river, well stocked with cattle, horses, and hogs.
That one or two of the Indians had already learnt how to make their
own plough-irons, axes, hoes, &c. while others were learning to make
tubs and buckets, and that he expected to learn an ingenuous boy to
make spinning wheels the ensuing year, for which he was then hunting
irons. That a tanyard was about to be sunk for the purpose of learning
them the art of tanning. That the Indian women had spun and wove about
seventy yards of flaxen linen that year, 1808, and was able to knit
their own stockings. That they, the committee, had got both men and
women to quit the habit of drinking whiskey, or any other kind of
ardent spirits, either at home or abroad--This circumstance has been
frequently witnessed among those who came down to Pittsburgh with
skins, trading, and who uniformly refuse _whiskey_ when offered to them
by those to whom they sell their skins, shaking their heads, saying,
_too scos, too scos_, meaning, _not good_, repeating in broken English,
“may be _scos_, good, for white man, but _too scos_, bad, for Indian.”

The Quakers of Baltimore, under the same Christian, and highly laudable
spirit, sent out in 1805, a deputation among the _Shawaneese_,
_Delawares_, and _Wyandots_, and such other tribes as they could find
it practicable to visit, to see what might be wanting to forward the
interests and happiness of the natives, to some of whose tribes they
had forwarded a few articles of farming utensils in 1798, particularly
to those situated on the banks of the Tuskarowas river; since which,
ploughs, hoes, axes, &c. have been forwarded to Fort Wayne as presents
to the Indians on the Wabash, where considerable clearings and
improvements have been made under the particular direction of PHILIP
DENNIS, agent of the Friends’ society.

The Western Missionary society are also laudably engaged in this
Christian like work, and we hope and flatter ourselves, that much good
will be done, and the poor natives be advanced to a state of rational
life. The Rev. Joseph Badger resides on the Sandusky, where no doubt
his indefatigable industry will be turned to the best advantage for the
welfare of the Indians in that quarter. He has one farm already stocked
with cattle, &c. a tolerable crop was raised last year--and a school
is kept to teach the children the English language. Divine service
is also held among them frequently, where men, women, and children
attend, to receive the instruction of their worthy pastor. Mr. Badger
was among us not long ago, and he gives a flattering account of the
aptness of the Indian children, and their willingness and desire for
learning, and states that they do not want for capacity.--This subject
opens a wide field for the humane and philosophick citizen, and we hope
the minds of many will be drawn to pay it that attention it so richly
merits.--CRAMER.

[46] This refers to the Western Reserve, often called New Connecticut.
By the terms of her charter, Connecticut claimed the land west of
her boundaries to the Mississippi; upon her cession of this claim to
Congress (1786), she reserved a tract of 3,250,000 acres on the shores
of Lake Erie, in which settlement was begun (1796) at Cleveland. In
1800 this reserve was surrendered to the United States, and finally
incorporated in the state of Ohio.--ED.

[47] It is not an uncommon thing for some of our New Connecticut
farmers to make from two to three tons of good cheese in one
season, for which they generally get at our market twelve cents per
pound.--CRAMER.

[48] Such as the sucker, sturgeon, buffaloe, missouri, eel, herring,
and sometimes the flat soft shelled turtle are caught--The branches of
the Allegheny, especially French creek, abound in fine trout.--CRAMER.

[49] Cuming is following the _Navigator_ in his signification of the
term “Ohio,” which in its turn quotes from Brackenridge’s _Gazette
Publications_ (Carlisle, 1806). Both are incorrect, as philologists now
agree that the word Ohio signifies “beautiful stream.”--ED.

[50] Dr. Felix Brunot was a foster brother of Lafayette. Embarking
in the latter’s enterprise to aid the American colonists, he served
efficiently in the Revolution, especially at the battle of Brandywine.
At the close of the war he settled at Annapolis, Maryland; but in 1797
removed to Pittsburg, where he developed the island estate which Cuming
describes. Dr. Brunot died in 1838; his descendants have been equally
public-spirited--his grandson, Felix Brunot, being an eminent Pittsburg
philanthropist.--ED.

[51] The original owner of the farm from which McKee’s Rocks took their
name was the notorious Tory Indian agent, Alexander McKee. This tract
he bought of Bouquet in 1764, and lived upon his property until the
outbreak of the Revolution. McKee had (1772) been appointed by Sir
William Johnson, deputy for Indian affairs, and was listed by Lord
Dunmore (1775) as one whose loyalty to the British could be relied
upon. He became, therefore, an object of suspicion to his neighbors,
and General Hand, commandant at Fort Pitt, placed him upon parole.
The night of March 28, 1778, McKee with Matthew Elliot and Simon
Girty, broke his parole and fled to the British at Detroit. There
he was rewarded with a captaincy, and employed in leading Indian
raiding parties against the American settlements. After Hamilton’s
capture (1778) he was made Indian agent for the Western department,
and throughout the Revolution, and the entire period of Indian wars,
his influence with the savages was exerted to maintain their enmity
to the Americans. After the battle of Fallen Timbers (1794), Wayne
burned the store-house and goods of McKee at the Maumee Rapids, the
renegade having himself retired to Detroit, where he received a letter
of commendation from the governor-general of Canada, and promotion in
the British service. When the latter evacuated Detroit (1796), McKee
retired to Sandwich, where he continued his official duties until his
death (January 14, 1799). His services had been rewarded by large
grants of land on the Canadian side of the Detroit River, upon which
his descendants established themselves. His Pittsburg property passed
into the hands of a brother, whose descendants were living thereon in
1847.--ED.

[52] Major Isaac Craig was one of the most prominent of the early
citizens of Pittsburg. Coming from Ireland to America in 1766, he
settled at Philadelphia as a carpenter, and being commissioned first
lieutenant of marines (1775) took part in the expedition to the West
Indies. His command was later transferred to the infantry and then
to the artillery branch of the service, wherein Craig was wounded
at Brandywine, and performed gallant services in Sullivan’s Indian
Campaign. Having taken command of Fort Pitt in 1780, he was ordered the
next year to reinforce George Rogers Clark with stores and artillery
for an expedition to Detroit. This proving abortive, Craig continued
at Pittsburg, strengthening its defenses, and securing it against
attack. In 1783, he bought the first land sold within the city of
Pittsburg, and shortly formed a partnership for general business
with Colonel Bayard, a Revolutionary officer. During the Indian
campaigns Craig acted as military storekeeper, forwarding provisions
to Wayne, and erecting defensive works at Pittsburg (Fort Fayette),
Wheeling, and Presqu’ Isle; but as a noted Federalist he was removed
(1802) by Jefferson from official position. Major Craig also aided
in preparations for the War of 1812-15, but at its close retired to
Neville’s Island (his wife’s property) and resided thereon until his
death in 1826.--ED.

[53] For a sketch of Redstone, see Michaux’s _Travels_, vol. iii of
this series, p. 158, note 23.--ED.

[54] For a sketch of Logstown, see Weiser’s _Journal_, vol. i of this
series, p. 24, note 17.--ED.

[55] A small brick market-house has been since built, and after many
trials, a well sunk from which the inhabitants are supplied with
water.--CRAMER.

[56] With regard to the Indian towns at the mouth of the Big Beaver,
see Weiser’s _Journal_, vol. i of this series, p. 26, note 22.

The present town of Beaver was laid out in 1792, and eight years later
made the county town for the newly-erected Beaver County. Fort McIntosh
was a Revolutionary post erected (1778) by General Lachlin McIntosh,
who had been chosen to succeed General Hand at Fort Pitt. It was the
first military post in the Indian territory beyond the Allegheny and
Ohio rivers. An important Indian treaty was held at this place in 1784;
but four years later the fort was demolished, the erection of lower
posts on the Ohio having rendered it superfluous.--ED.

[57] The career of General Abner Lacock is illustrative of the ability
and force of character that rendered so many pioneers eminent. Of
Virginia birth, he had but slight education, migrating to Washington
County, Pennsylvania, at an early age. When the town of Beaver was
erected he bought some of the first lots, and served as justice of the
peace as well as tavern-keeper. His entry into general politics was
signalized (1801) by election to the Pennsylvania assembly, and in 1808
he was chosen state senator. National affairs claimed him when elected
United States Senator (1813), in which position he championed internal
improvements and popular education. Having incurred the resentment of
Jackson by his services on the committee to investigate the Seminole
War, his retirement ensued; whereupon he returned to Beaver, whose
citizen he remained until his death in 1837.--ED.




{83} CHAPTER X

 Thunder storm--Hospitable reception at Potts’s--Georgetown--Little
    Beaver creek--State division line--Faucetstown--Croxton’s--Squire
    Brown’s.


A ferry two miles below Beaver is a handsome situation, beyond which
the banks are high on both sides, and the river does not exceed one
hundred and fifty yards wide.

About half past seven, it began to rain with heavy thunder and sharp
lightning. We huddled into the stern under the awning, and I sculled
with one oar to keep the boat in the channel, in hopes of getting to
Georgetown; but the storm increasing, we judged it more prudent to stop
at nine o’clock where we saw a light on the left bank. We were received
very hospitably in their small log house by Mr. and Mrs. Potts.[58] Our
landlady gave us bread and milk, which after changing our wet clothes,
we supped on sumptuously. We then made some milk punch, which our
landlord partook of with us with great gout, entertaining us with some
good songs, and long stories about his travels. Time thus passed away
while the storm pelted without, and it was not until eleven o’clock
that we stretched ourselves on the floor, with our feet to the fire,
and enjoyed a good nap, resisting the kind importunities of the Potts’s
to take their own bed, their other one being filled with their five
children. And here I must remark that throughout this whole country,
wherever you see a cabin, you see a swarm of children.

At six o’clock on Sunday morning the 19th July, we left Potts’s, after
having recompensed them for their hospitality. This was ten miles below
Beaver, and two and a half above Georgetown. There are three small
islands in that distance called First, Second, and Grape island.

{84} I landed at Georgetown on the left, which contains about thirty
houses in a fine situation, on a narrow plain extending from the high
river bank, to the hills which surround it like an amphitheatre. Though
it is a post town, and a considerable thoroughfare of travellers, it
is nevertheless on the decline, there being only twenty-five houses
inhabited.[59] A shower coming on, I took shelter in the house of a
very communicative elderly man, whose wife was young and very handsome,
though an half blood Indian.

Little Beaver creek[60] nearly opposite to Georgetown, is a handsome
little river, about thirty yards wide; half a mile below which, we
saw the division line between Pennsylvania and Virginia on the left,
{85} and between the former and Ohio on the right, which were cleared
of wood forty feet wide in their whole length some years ago; a new
growth of trees, bids fair to obliterate very shortly these temporary
boundaries.[61]

Near this on the left bank opposite a small island, is a curious
stratum of slate, covering a substratum of coal, which also shews
itself.

A mile below this is Custard’s island, a mile long, opposite the lower
end of which on the left, is the very pleasantly situated house and
farm of Mr. Stewart, in passing which we were asked by some people at
the landing, if we had seen a man polling up a skiff yesterday on his
way to Pittsburgh, and they pointed out his house on the opposite bank,
which he had left yesterday; which was matter of astonishment to us,
how the man we hailed in this skiff above Beaver, could have surmounted
so many ripples and rapids in so short a time; it evinced uncommon
strength, activity, and perseverance.

A mile and a half below Stewart’s, we passed Faucetstown, a hamlet
of five or six houses and a ferry, from whence is a road thirty miles
to Warren in Ohio. Here I observed some seines for fishing, made by
fastening bushes together with the tough and flexible stalks of the
wild grape, with which this whole western country abounds.

Two miles below Faucetstown, on the right, is a remarkable rocky cliff,
three hundred feet perpendicular, from which to Baker’s island of a
mile in length, is two miles, and from thence about a mile further, we
passed on the right, Yellow creek,[62] a handsome little river thirty
yards wide, with Mr. Pettyford’s good stone house well situated on its
left bank.[63]

{86} From Yellow creek the appearance of the soil and country is better
than above it, and the river is very beautiful, being in general about
a quarter of a mile wide, interspersed with several islands, which
add much to its beauty; some being partly cultivated and partly in
wood, some wholly in wood, and some covered with low aquatick shrubs
and bushes; and all fringed with low willows, whose yellowish green
foliage, contrasted with the rich and variegated verdure of the
gigantick forest trees, the fields of wheat and Indian corn, and the
dwarf alders, other shrubbery and reeds of the inundated islands, which
they surround, mark their bounds as on a coloured map. First Neasley’s
cluster of small islands, two miles below Yellow creek; then Black’s
island a mile and a half long, two miles below them, and lastly, Little
island close to the west end of Black’s, joined by a sand bar to the
right shore, where Jacob Neasley has a good two story wooden house,
with a piazza.[64]

Four miles further we stopped at Wm. Croxton’s tavern, the sign of
the Black Horse, on the Virginia side, and got a bowl of excellent
cider-oil. This is stronger than Madeira and is obtained from the
cider by suffering it to freeze in the cask during the winter, and
then drawing off and barrelling up the spirituous part which remains
liquid, while the aqueous is quickly congealed by the frost. Croxton
and his wife had a youthful appearance, notwithstanding they had eight
children, seven of whom were living.

He was born in this neighbourhood, lived here during the last Indian
war, and cultivated a bottom opposite, through which flows a rivulet
called Croxton’s run, which turns a grist and saw mill.[65] On the
United States appropriating the N. W. territory, now the state of
Ohio, he lost all that property by its being purchased by others,
before he became informed of the necessity of his securing his tenure
by obtaining a grant from the government. He complained {87} of a
toothache, from the torture of which I relieved him, by burning the
nerve with a hot knitting needle, which however did not prevent him
from charging us for our cider.

On the opposite bank a mile below Croxton’s, a Mr. White of Middleton
in Virginia, is building a fine house of hewn stone; and a mile further
on the same side, we admired the romantick situation of a farm house,
with a garden tastily filled with a profusion of flowers; opposite to
which on the Virginia side, is a remarkable cliff near the top of the
high river hill, occasioned by a large piece of the hill having broken
off and fallen down.

Four miles below Croxton’s we passed Brown’s island, containing three
hundred and fifty acres of first rate land, on the right, and opposite
the lower end of it on the left we stopped for the night at Brown’s,
who is a magistrate, and has a noble farm and a house very pleasantly
situated on a high bank, with a steep slope to the river.

We found the squire weighing sugar, which he had sold to Mr. Sumrall
of Pittsburgh, who owns some regular freighting keel boats, who with
one of them was now on his return from Cumberland river, and had also
stopped here for the night.

The negroes, cattle, offices, and the appearance of every thing here,
indicated the greatest abundance of the produce of this plentiful
country. Neither the old squire nor his wife, ever knew confinement
by accident or bad health, until about two months ago, when by a fall
from her horse, she dislocated her hip, and broke one of her knees. Her
son restored the limbs to their places, and she employed no surgeon,
but is curing herself gradually, though slowly, by an embrocation of
camphorated spirit.

After supping with the old gentleman, near his old wife’s bed side,
on apple pye, bread, butter and milk, he kissed her, and then shewed
us to a room {88} with four beds in it, one of which he occupied
himself, and gave us possession of another, which we were not allowed
to possess in peace, as its indigenous inhabitants, indignant at our
intrusion, assailed us all night with such fury, as to drive us from
their quarters at the first dawn of day. The old man had entertained
us until a late hour, by narrating to us his situation, and that of
his family. His children have all good farms, and he intends making no
will, that they may inherit equally, (according to the very equitable
law of this country respecting intestate inheritance) whatever
he may die possessed of, which he gave us to understand was very
considerable.--One daughter is married to a Mr. Madan, an Irishman, to
whom he gave a farm with her, which Madan sold for a thousand dollars
five years ago, and removed to St. Genevieve on the Mississippi, where
he is now a land surveyor with an income of two thousand dollars per
annum. Two years ago, squire Brown, notwithstanding his age, about
seventy, paid his daughter a visit, a distance of a thousand miles.

Though he does not keep a tavern, he knows how to charge as if he did,
we having to pay him half a dollar for our plain supper, plainer bed,
and two quarts of milk we took with us next morning; which was very
high in a country where cash is very scarce, and every thing else very
abundant.


FOOTNOTES:

[58] The creek at this place is still known as Potts Run.--ED.

[59] Georgetown was founded in 1793 by Benoni Dawson of Maryland, who
named it in honor of the city of that name, now in the District of
Columbia. It is “a prosperous-looking, sedate town, with tidy lawns
running down to the edge of the terrace.” See Thwaites, _On the Storied
Ohio_ (Chicago, 1903).--ED.

[60] This is a valuable stream for water works, though wildly and
romantically hemmed in by vast hills on both sides. There are two grist
mills, a saw mill, and a large paper mill, all within two miles of its
mouth; the latter has been lately erected, and is owned by Jacob Bowman
of Brownsville, John Bever of Georgetown, and John Coulter, who resides
at the mill. Over this creek, about a mile from its mouth, a new toll
bridge was erected in the summer and fall of 1809, on the road leading
from Washington county to New Lisbon, Canton, Worster, &c. state
of Ohio. About a mile above Little Beaver, in the bed of the Ohio,
and near the north western side, a substance bubbles up, and may be
collected at particular times on the surface of the water, similar to
_Seneca oil_. When the water is not too high, it can be strongly smelt
while crossing the river at Georgetown: It is presumed to rise from or
through a bed of mineral coal embowelled under the bed of the river.
The virtues of the Seneca oil are similar to those of the _British
oil_, and supposed to be equally valuable in the cures of rheumatick
pains, &c.--Large quantities of the Seneca oil is collected on Oil
creek, a branch of the Allegheny river, and sold at from one dollar and
a half to two dollars per gallon. The mode of collecting it is this;
the place where it is found bubbling up in the creek is surrounded by a
wall or dam to a narrow compass, a man then takes a blanket, flannel,
or other woollen cloth, to which the oil adheres, and spreading it over
the surface of the enclosed pond, presses it down a little, then draws
it up, and running the cloth through his hands, squeezes out the oil
into a vessel prepared for the purpose; thus twenty or thirty gallons
of pure oil can be obtained in two or three days by one man.--CRAMER.

[61] The boundary is now marked by a stone monument. On the historic
controversy concerning this boundary, see Michaux’s _Travels_, vol. iii
of this series, p. 170, note 31.--ED.

[62] A few miles up this creek are several valuable salt springs; at
two of which quantities of excellent salt is made.--CRAMER.

[63] For the historic incidents connected with Yellow Creek and Baker’s
bottom, see Croghan’s _Journal_, vol. i of this series, p. 127, note
93, and Thwaites, _On the Storied Ohio_.--ED.

[64] This group of islands is still known as Kneistly’s Cluster. See
Thwaites, _On the Storied Ohio_.

Jacob Kneistly (or Nessly) was of Swiss origin and emigrated to this
region from Pennsylvania about 1785.--ED.

[65] Croxton’s Run was the scene of one of the last Indian fights in
this vicinity (1787). Fourteen hunters were attacked here by a party of
wandering Shawnees, and four of the whites killed.--ED.




{89} CHAPTER XI

 Remarkable bend in the river--Steubenville--Ornamented seats and
    farms--Charlestown--Bakewell’s, and other manufacturies--A versatile
    professional character--Buffalo creek.


At 6 o’clock on Monday, 20th July, we proceeded on our voyage, and
three miles below Brown’s passed a point or rather a peninsula on the
left, formed by a remarkable turn in the river, which takes a direction
due east for two miles; its general course from Big Beaver to Baker’s
island having been west, and from thence south. On the peninsula is a
well cleared and beautifully situated farm, and there is a remarkable
heap of loose rocks on the opposite shore, where a small creek falls
into the Ohio, with a neat stone cottage at its mouth. At the end of
the easterly reach is a good two story stone house of a Mr. Kelly, just
under a hill on the Ohio side, with a fine bottom opposite.

At a little before eight o’clock we stopped at Steubenville, the
capital of Jefferson county in Ohio, seven miles from Brown’s. This
town has been settled about eight years, chiefly by emigrants from the
state of Jersey. It contains one hundred and sixty houses, including
a new gaol of hewn stone, a court-house of square logs (which it is
said is to be soon replaced by a new one[66] of better materials), and
a brick presbyterian church. There are four or five different sects
of Christians in this town, but no established minister, except a Mr.
Snodgrass to the presbyterians, and a Mr. Doddridge, who comes from
{90} Charlestown in Virginia, every other Sunday, to officiate to the
episcopalians in the court-house, which is occasionally used for the
same purpose by the other sects.

There is a land-office here for the sale of the publick lands, from
which large sums in Spanish dollars are sent annually to the treasury
of the United States in Washington. Perhaps this is one cause of the
town having increased so rapidly. Another may be its very handsome
situation. The first street, which is parallel to the river, is on a
narrow flat, sufficiently raised above the river floods; while the
rest of the town is about twenty feet perpendicular above it, on an
extensive plain, rising gradually with a gentle slope to the foot of
the hills which surround it in a semicircle like an amphitheatre, about
a mile distant. On one of those a Mr. Smith has a house and farm which
seems to impend over the south end of the town, from an elevation of
four hundred feet perpendicular from the bed of the river. Mr. Bazil.
Wells, who is joint proprietor of the soil with Mr. James Ross of
Pittsburgh, has a handsome house and finely improved garden and farm
on the bank of the Ohio, a quarter of a mile below the town.[67]

We remained about an hour in Steubenville, (which is named in honour
of the late major-general baron Steuben, the founder of the present
American military tacticks): We then pursued our course down the river,
passing at half a mile a point on the left, where is a tavern with a
fine extensive bottom behind it; and four and a half miles further, we
left Mingo bottom island (very small) on the left; half a mile below
which on the right is Mr. Potter’s handsome square roofed house, and
a quarter of a mile lower down is Mr. Pratt’s neat frame cottage,
ornamented like Potter’s with weeping willows and Lombardy poplars. A
mile and a quarter from hence we passed two small creeks called Cross
creeks, one on {91} each hand, and a mile and a half below them, on
turning a point on the left, we saw Charlestown, half a league before
us, on the Virginia side, making a handsome appearance, with the white
spire of the court house, and several good looking private houses,
which are distinctly seen from the river, on account of the situation
being on a lower bank than that of Steubenville.

At eleven we landed in Charlestown,[68] went to the inn where the mail
stage between Pittsburgh and Wheeling stops, and ordered dinner, during
the preparation of which, we amused ourselves with walking through the
town. It was laid out about fourteen years ago, and now contains about
eighty houses of various materials--brick, stone and wood, principally
in one street parallel to the Ohio. In the middle is a convenient
little court-house of stone, with a small, light cupola spire. The gaol
is behind it, and in front is the pillory,[69] on a plan differing
from any I ever saw elsewhere: A large, round wooden cover, like an
immense umbrella, serving as a shade for the criminal in the stocks,
or for a platform for one in the pillory to stand on, or for a shelter
from sun or rain to the inhabitants who meet on business in front of
the court-house, the place generally used as a sort of exchange in
the small towns in this country. A Col. Connel, who is a farmer, and
clerk of the county courts of Brooke county, has a very large but
unfinished house of hewn stone near the court-house. The academy is
a good brick building on the ascent of the hill behind the town, and
was a good school until broken up by some political division among the
inhabitants, which induced Mr. Johnston, the last master, to remove
to Beaver {92} in Pennsylvania, where he now keeps the county clerk’s
office.[70]

Mr. Bakewell from England, who has been established here about two
years, politely shewed us his manufactury of pottery and queensware.
He told us that the business would answer very well, could workmen
be got to be depended upon; but that those he has hitherto employed,
have always quit his service before the term of the expiration of
their contracts, notwithstanding any law to the contrary; and two
of them have actually set up small manufacturies in Charlestown, one
of queensware in opposition to him, and the other of tobacco pipes.
Bakewell’s ware is very good, but not so fine, nor so well glazed as
that manufactured in England, owing probably to the difference of
materials, as the process is the same.

Mr. Doddridge who officiates alternately here and at Steubenville, to
the episcopal congregations, first practised law, then physick, and now
adds the trade of a tanner to the profession of divinity.[71]

The wells here are dug forty to fifty feet deep before water is come
at, but that inconvenience might be easily remedied by conveying water
to the town in pipes from the surrounding hills, which will doubtless
be the case, should it ever become a manufacturing town; which a few
more inhabitants of equal spirit and enterprize with Bakewell would
soon effect.

Buffalo creek falls into the Ohio at the south end of the town,
after a course of forty or fifty miles through Washington county
in Pennsylvania, and {93} the narrow tongue of Virginia in which
Charlestown is situated. It had a wooden bridge about forty yards in
length across the mouth of it, on the post road to Wheeling, which was
carried away last spring by a flood.[72]


FOOTNOTES:

[66] A handsome brick court-house has since been erected, and the
inside work nearly completed. An original bank was established at
Steubenville in 1809, by a law of the state, with a capital of 100,000
dollars, with power to increase it to 500,000 dollars. Bazaleel Wells
president, W. R. Dickinson, cashier.--CRAMER.

[67] Steubenville was founded (1797) upon the site of Fort Steuben, one
of the earliest blockhouses built in Ohio by the Federal government
(1786-87).

Bezaleel Wells was the son of Alexander Wells, a well-known West
Virginia pioneer who founded the town of Wellsburg, dying there in
1813. The son was considered the best surveyor in the region, and
laid out and speculated in town lots at Canton, Ohio, as well as at
Steubenville.--ED.

[68] The present town of Wellsburg, West Virginia, was first laid out
(1791) under the name of Charlestown, in honor of Charles Prather, its
earliest proprietor. In 1816 its name was changed by action of the
legislature.--ED.

[69] The pillory punishment, a few years ago, prevailed throughout
several of the states, but has been wisely abolished by all but
Virginia.--CRAMER.

[70] Mr. David Johnston was removed from his office in Beaver county
after the election of Mr. Snyder as governor. Before he went to
Charlestown he taught in the Canonsburgh college, and was elected in
that county, Washington, to a seat in the Pennsylvania legislature. He
now teaches a private school in Brownsville.--CRAMER.

[71] Cuming here refers to Rev. Dr. Joseph Doddridge, whose _Notes on
the Settlement and Indian Wars of the Western Parts of Virginia and
Pennsylvania_ (Wellsburgh, 1824; second edition, Albany, 1876) is a
mine of antiquarian lore. Doddridge, the son of a well-known pioneer,
was born (1769) in Bedford County, Pennsylvania; but at an early age
his father removed to Washington County and the family experienced
backwoods life. Young Doddridge was first a Methodist itinerant, but
later ordained in the Protestant Episcopal church. He also studied
medicine under Dr. Rush in Philadelphia, and settled at Wellsburg,
where he was a useful and influential citizen. His brother Philip was a
well-known Virginia lawyer and statesman. See _West Virginia Historical
Magazine_, January, 1902, on the Doddridges.--ED.

[72] This bridge has since been rebuilt.--CRAMER.




CHAPTER XII

 New town and settlement of Warren--Roland’s ferry--Comfortable
    situation, the effect of industry--Wheeling--Walk by moonlight--New
    state road--Wheeling island--Canton.


We proceeded after dinner from Charlestown, three and a half miles
to a ferry, and two miles further, we passed a point and a tavern
on the right, a mile and a half below which on the same hand, is
the straggling town and fine settlement of Warren, laid out by Mr.
Kimberly, the proprietor, five years ago, but it is only within two
years that it has began to assume the appearance of a town. It contains
thirty-eight dwelling houses, charmingly situated on an extensive
bottom, the largest I had noticed since leaving Pittsburgh, with Indian
Short creek emptying into the Ohio at its southern extremity.

Three miles lower, we passed Pike island, which is about three quarters
of a mile long, and seems capable of cultivation, though perhaps rather
low. Opposite to it is the boundary line between Jefferson and Belmont
counties in Ohio.

Two miles further, at six o’clock we landed at Roland’s ferry, on the
left, and found Roland and his son employed building a boat on the
bank. He had removed from Pittsburgh last April, and now rents {94}
a small farm from Mr. Woods, the county surveyor, who has a handsome
house in sight, a little remote from the river where he resides,
another on the bank a little lower down, and a cottage amongst the
woods on the highest neighbouring hill, intended for a banqueting
house during summer, and commanding an extensive prospect. At Roland’s
invitation, we walked to his cottage a little distant from the river
bank. His wife and a very fine girl his eldest daughter were spinning
cotton, while a younger one was attending the ferry, who though a
delicate and pretty girl, paddled the skiff backwards and forwards as
well as a man could do. He has been very industrious, as besides having
built several skiffs since his removal, he had planted and cultivated
twelve acres of the finest corn I ever saw, some of it now twelve feet
high, just beginning to ear. He had also a large garden well stocked
with useful roots and vegetables.

At seven we left Roland’s, and three miles and a half below, passed
between the north end of Wheeling island on the right, and the
principal part of the town of Wheeling on the left,[73] which is
situated on so high a cliff, with the avenues from the river so steep,
that on account of the apparent difficulty of getting our baggage
carried up, we preferred going on to where the cliff was considerably
lower, landing just under Sprigg’s tavern near the ship-yards, a little
above the confluence of Wheeling creek with the Ohio.

This being a great thoroughfare, on account of its situation where
the great post roads from Philadelphia, Baltimore, and the northern
part of Virginia unite, and cross the river, on the route through the
states of Ohio and Kentucky, to Tennessee and New Orleans, we found
several travellers of various descriptions in the house, and after
partaking with them of a good supper, we went out to saunter until bed
time through the town, into which we had to {95} ascend a steep but
short hill. It appeared very lively, the inhabitants being about their
doors, or in the street, enjoying the fresh air of a clear moonlight
evening, while two flutes were playing _en duo_ the simple but musical
Scots ballad of Roy’s wife of Aldwalloch, the prime part very tastily
executed. Yet notwithstanding appearances, our impression of the
town was not the most favourable, nor after tolerable beds and a good
breakfast next morning, had we reason to alter our opinion when we
examined it by day light.

It contains one hundred and twenty houses of all descriptions from
middling downwards, in a street about half a mile long, parallel to the
river, on a bank of about one hundred feet perpendicular, which the
face of the cliff almost literally is, of course the avenues to the
landings are very steep and inconvenient. The court-house of stone with
a small belfry, has nothing in beauty to boast of. The gaol joins it in
the rear.

It is probable that Mr. Zanes, the original proprietor, now regrets
that he had not placed the town on the flat below, at the conflux of
the Wheeling and Ohio, where Spriggs’s inn and the ship-yards now are,
instead of cultivating it as a farm until lately, when a resolve of
congress to open a new publick state road from the metropolis through
the western country, which will come to the Ohio near the mouth of
Wheeling creek, induced him to lay it out in town lots, but I fear he
is too late to see it become a considerable town to the prejudice of
the old one, notwithstanding its more advantageous situation.--The
present town does not seem to thrive, if one may judge by the state of
new buildings, two only of which I saw going forward in it. The stores
also appeared rather thinly stocked with goods, and the retail prices
are high. When the new road is finished, it will doubtless be of great
use to Wheeling, as it will be a more direct route to the western
states, {96} than any of the others hitherto used, and besides there
are no material impediments to the navigation of the Ohio with the
usual craft, below that town in the driest seasons, when the river is
at the lowest.

The surrounding country in sight is hilly and broken, but I am
informed that it is very rich and plentiful at a short distance from
the river.

Wheeling island in front of the town, is about a mile long, and
half a mile wide in its broadest part. It is very fertile, and is
all cultivated as a farm by Mr. Zanes. The post and stage road to
Chilicothe in Ohio, goes across it, which occasions two ferries, an
inconvenience which will be remedied by the new state road crossing by
one ferry below the island.

Indian Wheeling creek, a fine mill stream joins the Ohio from the N. W.
opposite the middle of the island, and Mr. Zanes has lately laid out a
new town there named Canton, which has now thirteen houses, but from
its proximity to Wheeling, it never can become considerable.[74]


FOOTNOTES:

[73] On the early history of Wheeling and its importance as a terminus
for overland travel from Redstone and Fort Pitt, see Michaux’s
_Travels_, vol. iii of this series, p. 33, note 15; also Thwaites, _On
the Storied Ohio_.--ED.

[74] The use of the terms Indian Wheeling Creek, Indian Kentucky, etc.
for streams flowing into the Ohio from its northern and western side
is a reminiscence of the days when the Ohio was a boundary between the
white settlements and Indian territory. The Indian title to these lands
was not extinguished, and the danger of attack from this side of the
river was not removed until after the Treaty of Greenville (1795).

The town laid out opposite Wheeling was not the nucleus of the
well-known Canton (Stark County), Ohio; but a place that perished,
according to Cuming’s prediction.--ED.




CHAPTER XIII

 Little Grave creek--Remarkable Indian monument--Floating
    store--Big Grave creek--Captina island and creek--Baker’s
    station--Cressop’s--Fish creek--Biddle’s--John Well’s--A rustick
    chorister--Uncommon fly.


On the 21st July at eight A. M. we left Wheeling, observing nothing
very interesting, until we reached Little Grave creek, eleven miles
below at {97} half past eleven o’clock. The creek, which is very small,
puts in from the Virginia side, and there is a ferry-house at the mouth
of it, where we landed, and had a pleasant walk on a very good wagon
road of half a mile to Tomlinson’s, the proprietor of the surrounding
soil. He has been settled here thirty years, but always forted until
the conclusion of the Indian war by General Wayne. He then attempted to
establish a town on the opposite side of the creek from his house; but
it remains without augmentation, with only eleven cottages and cabins.
The neighbouring country however is improving, though slowly. Mr.
Tomlinson has a very good two story brick house, almost finished, fine
apple and peach orchards, and a good farm.[75]

Mrs. Tomlinson obligingly permitted one of her sons to guide us to
what is called the Indian grave, which is a short quarter of a mile to
the southward of the house. It is a circular mound, like the frustum
of a cone, about one hundred and eighty yards in circumference round
the base, sixty round the flat on the top, and about seventy feet
perpendicular height. In the centre of the flat top is a shallow
hollow, like the filled up crater of an old volcano, which hollow or
settle is said to have been formed within the memory of the first
neighbouring settlers, and is supposed by them to be occasioned by the
settling of the earth on the decayed bodies.

The whole mount appears to be formed of clay, and from its regularity,
is evidently a work of art, though I am not of opinion that it has been
a general or publick cemetery, but either a mausoleum raised over, and
in memory of some great Indian chief, a temple for religious worship,
or the scite of a fortification, or citadel to serve as a place of
retreat from a superior foe. About three years ago, the neighbours
perforated the north side, at about half the elevation, digging in
horizontally about twelve feet, without any {98} other satisfaction to
their curiosity, than the finding of part of a human jaw bone, the bone
rough and honeycombed, but the teeth entire, and the surrounding clay
of a white chalky consistence.

There are four or five small mounds all within a few hundred yards
of the great one, each about thirty feet diameter, much lower in
proportion than it, all rounded over the tops, and like the great one,
shewing their antiquity by the size of the trees, plants, and shrubs
which cover them, and having more than it the appearance of tumuli.

The bark of the trees which crown this remarkable monument, is
covered by the initials of visitors cut into it, wherever they could
reach--the number of which, considering the remote situation, is truly
astonishing.[76]

On returning to our boat we found a floating store at the landing. It
was a large square flat, roofed and fitted with shelves and counter,
and containing a various assortment of merchandize, among which were
several copper stills, of which much use is now made throughout the
whole western country for distilling peach and apple brandy, and rye
whiskey.--The store had two owners, who acted both as boatmen and
merchants, and who freely invited us to partake of a dram with them.
They had loaded their flat at Wheeling, and were dropping down the
river, stopping occasionally wherever they could find a market for
their goods.

At about one o’clock we proceeded on our voyage, passing on the right
Mr. Dilly’s large frame house and fine farm, round which the river
takes a great bend to the westward.[77]

About five miles and a half below Little Grave creek, after passing
Big Grave creek,[78] (which is as {99} inconsiderable as its namesake
notwithstanding its distinguishing adjective) and Captina island (very
small) and after having stopped for a few minutes at one Baker’s, who
answered our questions with savage moroseness, we passed Captina creek
on the right, emptying into the Ohio through an extensive bottom, with
three mills and several settlements on it.

A mile lower, on the left is Baker’s station, which has the appearance
of an old settlement.[79]

About three miles below Captina creek we stopped on the left at Mr.
Cressop’s fine farm. He was on the plantation overseeing his labourers,
but Mrs. Cressop received us politely. She is young and very handsome,
and her employments of rocking her infant in its cradle while she
exercised her needle, did not diminish any thing of her beauty or
respectability. She is sister in law to Mr. Luther Martin, a celebrated
lawyer of Baltimore.[80]

Mr. Cressop owns a thousand acres of land here in one body, most of it
first rate bottom, his cottage is well furnished, and he has a neat and
good garden.

A little lower we passed Woods’s fine island, about a mile long, and
stopped just beyond it at Biddle’s tavern on the left, at the conflux
of Fish creek[81] and the Ohio, a mile and a half below Cressop’s.
Biddle keeps a ferry over Fish creek, which is a fine deep stream,
fifty yards wide, running thirty miles through the country, but having
no mills on it yet.

Mr. and Mrs. Biddle are kind and hospitable, decent in their manners,
and reasonable in their charges. He is a tenant of Mr. Robert Woods,
whose house and extensive improvements we had passed at Roland’s ferry
near Wheeling.

Biddle pays a rent of one hundred dollars per annum, for which he has
a right to cultivate and build wherever he pleases on Woods’s land,
Mr. Woods paying him per valuation for the buildings. The house he
now resides in cost him six hundred dollars, {100} which he has been
repaid. He has cleared and cultivated the land for some distance round
the house, and he has ten acres in corn on the island, which contains
fifty acres of the first quality of soil above the highest flood marks,
the rest being liable to inundation.

At nine o’clock, we landed on the left at John Wells’s, seven miles
from Biddle’s. It was a fine night. Eight or nine young men who had
been reaping for Wells during the day, were stretched out at their ease
on the ground, round the door of the cabin, listening to the vocal
performance of one of their comrades, who well merited their attention,
from the goodness of his voice, his taste, execution, variety and
humour. We enjoyed a rural supper, while listening to the rustick
chorister, then resisting our friendly host’s invitation to accept
of a bed, and provided with a light and some milk for next morning’s
breakfast, we retired to our skiff, threw out a night line to fish, and
endeavoured to compose ourselves to sleep under our awning. We were
much disturbed throughout the night by gnats and musquitoes, attracted
probably by our light, before extinguishing of which, we killed a
winged animal of the fly kind, the largest of the species I had ever
seen. It was about three inches long, with four gauzy wings, and a most
formidable display of forceps on each side the mouth, like those of a
scorpion, for which reason it might be named not improperly a winged
scorpion, though it is probably not venomous like it.

Wells and his wife are a young couple who removed last spring to this
place, from his father’s, an opulent farmer, eighteen miles lower down
the river. They are kind and obliging, and better informed than one
might expect, from their limited opportunities of acquiring knowledge
in so remote a situation. Mrs. Wells, though a delicately formed woman,
and with {101} twin boys only six weeks old, both of whom she nurses,
seemed neither to have, nor to require any assistance in her domestick
employments, yet both plenty and order were observable throughout her
cabin. Though we were much incommoded here by musquitoes, yet I must
observe, that comparatively with the country to the eastward of the
Allegheny mountains, particularly near the sea coast, in the vicinity
of salt marshes, we found very few of those troublesome insects, in
our descent of the Ohio, and though we occasionally heard the unwelcome
hum of a few solitary ones, we never once saw or heard a swarm of
them: we were however sometimes at night, when sleeping in our skiff,
infested by gnats or sand flies, but not in such numbers as we might
have expected on a river in the warmest season of the year.


FOOTNOTES:

[75] For a sketch of Joseph Tomlinson, a well-known pioneer, see
Harris’s _Journal_, vol. iii of this series, p. 360, note 40. The
expression “forted” means that he lived within a stockade stronghold
until the close of the Indian wars.--ED.

[76] On the subject of Indian mounds, see for recent scientific
conclusions, Lucien Carr, “Mound Builders,” in Smithsonian Institution
_Report_, 1891 (Washington, 1893), pp. 503-599; also American Bureau of
Ethnology _12th Annual Report_ (Washington, 1894).--ED.

[77] Dillon’s Bottom is nearly opposite Moundsville. Just beyond,
at the bend which Cuming mentions, was situated Round Bottom, which
Colonel Crawford surveyed for Washington, in 1771. Cresap made a
tomahawk claim to the same land, and there was a long litigation over
the matter, which was not finally adjusted until 1839, when the suit
was decided in favor of Washington’s claim. See Washington’s _Works_
(Ford ed., New York, 1889), iii, pp. 392, 408.--ED.

[78] On Big Grave Creek occurred the ambuscade (September 27, 1777) in
which Captain William Foreman and twenty Virginia militiamen were slain
on their way to the relief of Fort Wheeling.--ED.

[79] The family of Bakers here mentioned is not to be confused with
that of Joshua Baker, at whose settlement opposite Yellow Creek
occurred the massacre of Logan’s family. John Baker was a Prussian who
emigrated to America in 1755, removed to the Shenandoah Valley, later
to Dunkard’s Creek, and (1781) to Washington County, Pennsylvania.
While there he learned of a projected Indian attack on the fort at
Wheeling, and sent his son Henry, a youth of eighteen, to deliver the
warning. Henry was captured by the Indians, carried to the Sandusky
towns, and only saved at the intercession of Simon Girty. Upon his
release three years later, he found that his father had again removed,
and fortified Baker’s Station near Captina Creek. At the close of the
Indian wars, Henry Baker married, and moving up the river purchased a
farm including Captina Island, where Cuming found him.--ED.

[80] Mrs. Cresap was a Miss Ogle, whom Michael Cresap had married a
few years previous. Michael Cresap, jr., was but an infant when his
father, Captain Michael Cresap, died. The latter is well-known in
border annals. As early as 1771 he had begun sending out squatters
from his home in Old-town, Maryland, to take up Ohio lands; but he
himself did not settle in this vicinity until the spring of 1774,
when he immediately became involved in the troubles leading to Lord
Dunmore’s War. He was commissioned captain of the local militia (June
10, 1774), and joined McDonald’s expedition to the Muskingum towns. The
following year Cresap was again in Maryland, and raised a company for
the Continental army, dying in New York on his way to join Washington
at Cambridge. Of his children the eldest daughter married Luther
Martin, the well-known Maryland statesman and jurist. The youngest son,
Michael, settled on his father’s Ohio lands, and became a wealthy and
respected citizen.--ED.

[81] For the incidents connected with the early history of Fish Creek,
see Harris’s _Journal_, vol. iii of this series, p. 350, note 37.--ED.




CHAPTER XIV

 Fishing creek--Apathy of relatives for a dying man--Long
    reach--Charles Wells’s--Remarkable petrifaction--Squire
    Green’s--Little Muskingum river--Marietta--Muskingum river--
    Ingenuous mode of ferrying--Vestiges of Indian fortification.


At half past four on Wednesday 22d July, we loosed from the bank, and
drifted down the stream: The banks on both sides low, and the bottoms
very extensive.

At eight we were abreast of Fishing creek on the left seven miles below
Wells’s. It is about the size of Fish creek, and has a saw mill on it,
and at its mouth, one Morgan has a farm beautifully situated.

{102} At half past eight we overtook Frazey’s boat which we had passed
on the 18th, and which had floated past us during the night. The sick
man had had fits yesterday, yet neither his wife, his son, nor his
brother seemed much affected with his situation, but spoke of it very
carelessly, though they did not expect him to live twenty-four hours
longer. He had been some years in a declining state, and perhaps they
thought that his death would be convenient both to them and to himself.

Three miles and a half below Fishing creek, we left Peyton’s island on
the left. It is about a mile and a half long, and is cultivated and
inhabited.--From hence, the Long reach in its whole length of eighteen
miles, the islands on the left, the projecting points on the right,
and the forest covered and unequal hills on each side, form a most
beautiful coup d’œil.

Four miles and a half lower, we had passed Williamson’s island, which
is above two miles long, and we stopped just below it on the left bank,
at Charles Wells’s, the sign of the buck. He is father to John Wells,
at whose house we had supped last night: He has a fine farm, good
buildings and a large tract of land which he bought from a Mr. Caldwell
two or three years ago. We here got a good dinner, the charge was
reasonable, and the family obliging.

Mr. Wells shewed us a remarkable petrifaction of part of a beech tree,
found about twenty miles from his house, at the other side of the river
in the state of Ohio, in a northerly direction. The tree was found torn
up by the root, which with part of the trunk, was covered by a pool of
stagnate water, and completely petrified, while the part of the trunk
and the limbs which were out of the water, were still in their original
state of wood, but dry, and partly rotten. We wished to purchase this
petrification from Mr. Wells, but he was too much of a naturalist
himself to part {103} with such a curiosity for a sum which would have
been a temptation to a person of a different taste.[82]

Passing Pursley’s, Wilson’s and Williamson’s islands, none of them
exceeding a mile in length, we came to the end of Long reach, eleven
miles below Wells’s, where in a charming situation on the left, is
{104} a fine settlement, commanding a view of the reach and its islands
upwards.[83]

Little and Rat islands joined by a sand bar, are only half a mile
long each, and just below them, and three miles from Long reach, is
the beginning of Middle island, which is two miles and a half long,
with three families settled on it. Middle island creek, after running
some distance from its source in Virginia, turns some mills and falls
into the Ohio at the back of the island. We went to the right of those
islands, and two miles below Middle island, we landed at squire Green’s
tavern on the right, and got supper and beds.

The squire who derives his title from being a magistrate, came here
from Rhode Island about nine years ago. He has a fine farm, on an
extensive bottom, and he has two sons settled about a mile back from
the river, where they have a horse-mill and a distillery. Two younger
sons and a daughter, a sensible pleasing young woman, live at home
with their parents. One of the sons was suffering under a fever and
ague, the first time it had been known in the family--a proof of the
salubrity of the situation, the bottoms and flats throughout this
country being generally subject to this harassing and enfeebling
disorder, which however diminishes in proportion as the lands are
cleared. I recommended a plentiful use of calomel occasionally, and a
strong decoction of Peruvian bark, snake root and ginseng, during all
the intermissions.

On Thursday 23d July, we proceeded down the river at five A. M. passing
three small islands called the Three Brothers, between a mile and two
miles and a half below squire Green’s, the two first of which are
rather low, but the third is partly cultivated.--The river, its banks
and islands are very beautiful hereabouts; the hills having gradually
lessened from the south end of the Long reach, there are none but {105}
very moderate risings to be seen from the river, at twelve miles below
squire Green’s, where I observed on the left a saw for ship plank. Two
miles further, at half past nine, we passed Little Muskingum river
on the right. It is about twenty-five yards wide, and has a handsome
Chinese bridge over it. Dewal’s island extends from hence two miles and
a half to Marietta, where we landed on the right at eleven o’clock.

This town is finely situated on both banks of the Muskingum, at the
confluence of that river with the Ohio. It is principally built on
the left bank, where there are ninety-seven houses, including a
court-house, a market-house, an academy, and a post-office. There are
about thirty houses on the opposite bank, the former scite of Fort
Harmar, which was a United States’ garrison during the Indian wars, but
of which no vestige now remains. Some of the houses are of brick, some
of stone, but they are chiefly of wood, many of them large, and having
a certain air of taste. There are two rope-walks, and there were on the
stocks two ships, two brigs, and a schooner. A bank is established
here, which began to issue notes on the 20th inst. Its capital is one
hundred thousand dollars, in one thousand shares: Mr. Rufus Putnam is
the president.[84]

The land on which Marietta is built, was purchased during the Indian
war, from the United States, by some New England land speculators, who
named themselves the Ohio Company. They chose the land facing the Ohio,
with a depth from the river of only from twenty to thirty miles to the
northward, thinking the proximity of the river would add to its value,
but since the state of Ohio has began to be generally settled, the rich
levels in the interior have been preferred, but not before the company
had made large sales, particularly to settlers from New England,
notwithstanding the greatest part of the tract {106} was broken and
hilly, and the hills mostly poor, compared with those farther to the
westward, on both sides of the river.

Marietta is principally inhabited by New Englanders, which accounts for
the neat and handsome style of building displayed in it.

The Muskingum is about two hundred yards wide, and has a rapid current
of from three to four miles an hour, by which a ferry-boat is carried
across in something more than a minute, by a very simple but ingenious
piece of machinery. A rope of five or six inches in circumference is
extended across from bank to bank, and hove taught by a windlass:
two rollers play on it fixed in a box to each end of which the ends
of two smaller ropes are fastened, whose other ends are led to the
two extremities of the ferry flat, and taken round winches with iron
cranks, on which the rope at the end of the flat which is to be
foremost being wound up, presents the side of the flat to the current
at an angle of about thirty degrees. It is then pushed off--the
current acts upon it, and it arrives at the opposite side in the time
above mentioned.

There is a good road from Marietta, twelve miles up the bank of the
Muskingum to Waterford, which is a good settlement with some mills,
from whence it is continued northerly, parallel to the general course
of the river, to Zanesville,[85] and the interiour of the state.

About half a mile from Marietta, on the bank of the Muskingum, are some
curious vestiges of Indian fortification. A parallelogram of seven
hundred by five hundred yards is surrounded by a raised bank of two
or three feet high, and ten or twelve feet broad, with four entrances
opposite to each other on the two longest sides, and opposite to the
two oblong platforms at diagonal corners of the parallelogram which
are raised four or five feet above the surface of the natural plain. A
causeway forty yards wide, and from ten to twelve feet high, rounded
like a turnpike {107} road, leads from it to the river. Three hundred
yards nearer the town is a mount resembling the monument at Grave creek
and about half its height and size, surrounded by a ditch four feet
deep, through which are two entrances.

We got a good dinner at Monsall’s tavern, where major Joseph
Lincoln,[86] to whom I had a letter of introduction, politely called on
us, conversed with us, and gave us much information; and regretted that
our determination to descend the river directly after dinner prevented
his being favoured with our company at his house.

Two block houses still remain in Marietta, out of which it was very
unsafe to go singly previous to Wayne’s treaty, as the Indians were
always lurking about, on the watch to shoot and scalp, when such
opportunities were given them, and in which they were frequently but
too successful.


FOOTNOTES:

[82] The following account of uncommon petrifactions from Georgia and
Kentucky, we copy from the New York Medical Repository, vol. ii, page
415.

“Two rare extraneous fossils have been discovered, one in Georgia and
the other in Kentucky. They have both been presented to Dr Mitchill.
The former was brought by general David Meriwether, from a spring
not very distant from the high shoals of the river Apalachy. It is
rather above the size and thickness of a Spanish dollar, except that
it is somewhat gibbous or convex on the upper side. From the centre
proceed five bars, of four rays each, in the direction of radial lines,
but connected by curves before they reach the circumference. On the
under side are five grooves or creases, corresponding with the five
radial bars above, one crease below to four rays above. At the centre
beneath is a considerable concavity, corresponding with the convexity
on the outside. There is reason to believe that it is an _echinus_,
or _sea-urchin_ of which the species are very numerous, some of them
nearly flat, and many are found buried in the earth at great distances
from the ocean.--From the place where this was found, it was computed
there were enough, by estimation, to fill a bushel. And what was very
remarkable, they were so nearly alike that they seemed to have been
fashioned in the same mould, and have not been discovered in any other
place.

“The latter of these rarities is from Kentucky. One of them had been
received several years ago from Dr. S. Brown, of Lexington, now of
Orleans; and several others since from Professor Woodhouse. They have
a remote resemblance to a small acorn. At the larger end is a small
projection resembling a broken foot-stock. At the smaller extremity are
six indentations, or orifices, which may be imagined to be the decayed
pistils or stigmata of a former blossom. And on the sides are figured
fine sharp-pointed surfaces, having a similitude to the quinquepartite
calyx of a plant. It may be doubted whether this is of animal or
vegetable origin. It also may be reasonably supposed to be a species of
_echinus_.

“Both the specimens are silicious and insoluble in acids.”--CRAMER.

[83] This settlement failed to develop into a permanent town, as there
is now no important settlement at this point on the West Virginia side
of the river.--ED.

[84] For sketch of Rufus Putnam, see Harris’s _Journal_, vol. iii of
this series, p. 311, note 1.--ED.

[85] Zanesville on the Muskingum was laid out (1799) by Jonathan Zane
(brother of the founder of Wheeling) and John McIntyre. In 1809, the
seat of the Ohio government was transferred thither, and Zanesville
grew rapidly until the state capitol was removed to Columbus, when it
declined slowly, being now a place of little importance.--ED.

[86] Major Joseph Lincoln was a Revolutionary soldier of note, who came
out with Putnam’s first colony to found Marietta. During the Indian
wars he lived at Farmer’s Castle; but about 1795 engaged in business at
Marietta, in which he was quite successful, erecting in 1807 the finest
building in the town. His death occurred soon after Cuming’s visit.--ED.




CHAPTER XV

 Trade wind--Vienna--Belle-prè--Little Kenhawa river--Browning’s
    tavern--Blennerhasset’s island, handsome seat and fine farm.


At half past two we proceeded from Marietta, accompanied by a Mr. Fry,
a genteel and well informed young lawyer, from the vicinity of Boston,
in search of an establishment in some part of this new country. We had
also as a passenger, a countryman, by trade a house carpenter, who
resided in Virginia, {108} about fifty miles lower down the river, and
was returning home after a trip up and down the Muskingum as one of the
crew of a keel boat.

There was a fresh S. W. wind, which is a trade wind on the Ohio every
day during summer, generally commencing about eight o’clock in the
morning, and ceasing about five in the afternoon, during which a boat
with a sail could ascend against the stream, from two to five miles an
hour, in proportion to the force of the wind; on which account I would
recommend it to navigators ascending the Mississippi and the Ohio in
the summer season, to be provided with a sail, as it will accelerate
their voyage very much, besides saving them a great deal of labour.

It blew so fresh this afternoon, that even with the aid of our
passengers, and a strong favourable current, we could scarcely make
any progress against the wind, which also occasioned a considerable
roughness of the water. By dint however of perseverance we advanced
a little, passing, three miles below Marietta, Muskingum island, two
miles long, and uncultivated, and a mile beyond that, Second island, a
fine little uncultivated island, three quarters of a mile long.

Two miles from hence, we passed on the left, a small settlement of
six or eight cabins, called Vienna, which does not appear to be
flourishing; and half a mile lower on the right, Coles’s tavern, a
very good square roofed house; a little beyond which is Third island,
a mile long, and the beginning of the fine settlement of Belle-prè on
the right, and a mile lower down, Little Kenhawa river on the left.[87]
This is a handsome little river, about eighty yards wide, with a placid
stream. It has Wood county court-house, and a tavern, on the right bank
of its embouchure.

We landed on the right at Browning’s tavern,[88] a good house and
pleasant situation, almost opposite {109} the Little Kenhawa. Several
travellers sat down with us to an excellent supper, amongst whom were a
merchant from Lexington, a travelling speculator and well digger from
French Grant, and a Mr. Smith from Cincinnati, who was deputed by the
marshal of Virginia to collect evidence for the trial of Col. Burr, and
his associates at Richmond.

Leaving Browning’s tavern on Friday, 24th July, at six o’clock,
without our passengers, in twenty minutes after, we had advanced a mile
and three quarters, and landed on the north side of Blennerhasset’s
island, a quarter of a mile below the eastern end.

On ascending the bank from the landing, we entered at a handsome double
gate, with hewn stone square pilasters, a gravel walk, which led us
about a hundred and fifty paces, to Mr. Blennerhasset’s house, with
a meadow on the left, and a shrubbery on the right, separated from
the avenue by a low hedge of privy-sally, through which innumerable
columbines, and various other hardy flowers were displaying themselves
to the sun, at present almost their only observer.

We were received with politeness by Mrs. Cushing, whose husband, Col.
Cushing, has a lease of this extensive and well cultivated farm, where
he and his family now reside in preference to his own farm at Belle-prè.

The house occupies a square of about fifty-four feet each side, is
two stories high, and in just proportion. On the ground floor is a
dining room of twenty-seven feet by twenty, with a door at each end
communicating with two small parlours, in the rear of each of which is
another room, one of which was appropriated by Mr. B. for holding a
chymical apparatus, and as a dispensary for drugs and medicines.

The stair case is spacious and easy, and leads to a very handsome
drawing room over the dining room, of the same dimensions. It is half
arched round the {110} cornices and the ceiling is finished in stucco.
The hangings above the chair rail are green with gilt border, and below
a reddish grey. The other four rooms on the same floor correspond
exactly with those below, and are intended either for bed chambers, or
to form a suit with the drawing room.

The body of the house is connected with two wings, by a semicircular
portico or corridor running from each front corner. In one wing is the
kitchen and scullery, and in the other was the library, now used as a
lumber room.

It is to be regretted that so tasty and so handsome a house had not
been constructed of more lasting materials than wood.

The shrubbery was well stocked with flowery shrubs and all the variety
of evergreens natural to this climate, as well as several exoticks,
surrounds the garden, and has gravel walks, labyrinth fashion, winding
through it.

The garden is not large, but seems to have had every delicacy of fruit,
vegetable, and flower, which this fine climate and luxurious soil
produces. In short, Blennerhasset’s island is a most charming retreat
for any man of fortune fond of retirement, and it is a situation
perhaps not exceeded for beauty in the western world. It wants however
the variety of mountain--precipice--cateract--distant prospect, &c.
which constitute the grand and sublime.

The house was finished in a suitable style, but all the furniture
and moveables were attached by the creditors to whom Mr. B. had made
himself liable by endorsing Col. Burr’s bills, and they were lately
sold at publick auction at Wood county court-house, for perhaps less
than one twentieth of their first cost.[89]

Mrs. Cushing described Mrs. B. as beautiful and highly accomplished,
about thirty years of age, and mother of two infant sons now with her
at Natchez.

{111} After passing an hour in this delightful spot, we left it with
regret that such a terrestrial paradise should be deserted by an owner
who had taste to blend judiciously the improvements of art with the
beauties of nature. Its fertility will always ensure its cultivation,
but without a Horace it must cease to be a Tivoli.


FOOTNOTES:

[87] The island at the point is still called Cole’s, or Vienna, Island.
For sketch of the Little Kanawha, see Croghan’s _Journals_, vol. i of
this series, p. 130, note 98.

Belpré (contraction of Belle Prairie) was the site chosen for the
second separate community of the Ohio Company of Associates, being
laid out 1789-90. The first town meeting was held in 1802. Belpré’s
chief title to fame is the fact that there was established (about 1795)
the first circulating library in the Northwest Territory. The son
of Israel Putnam brought out a portion of his father’s library, and
formed a stock company in which shares were sold at ten dollars each.
The company was dissolved (1815 or 1816), and among the stockholders
were distributed the books, some of which are still to be found in the
neighboring farmhouses.--ED.

[88] William Browning came to Marietta from Massachusetts in 1789, and
shortly after married a daughter of General Rufus Putnam, settling at
Belpré, where he died in 1823.--ED.

[89] This description of the Blennerhassett place so soon after the
family were forced to abandon the island, is of especial interest. The
story of Harman Blennerhassett is one of the best-known in Western
annals. He was an Irish gentleman of fortune and culture, who because
of his republican principles emigrated to America. In 1798 he bought
this beautiful island in the Ohio, and prepared it for a home for his
family. Charming and accomplished, he and his wife occupied themselves
in beautifying the place, in generous and lavish hospitality, and in
scientific investigation. Unfortunately Blennerhassett was tempted to
embrace the schemes of Aaron Burr, and involved his entire estate in
that enterprise. Late in 1806 rumors of treason grew so strong that
Blennerhassett was obliged to escape from his island, which was shortly
overrun with local militia, who wantonly destroyed much property and
insulted Mrs. Blennerhassett. The place had been left to the care of
Colonel Nathaniel Cushing, who, after distinguished service in the
Revolution, had removed to the Ohio, and having settled near Belpré,
was a neighbor and warm friend of the Blennerhassetts. The fine mansion
was burned in 1811 by the carelessness of negroes, and but little is
now left of the estate which had been laid out with so much care and
taste. For description of the present condition of the island, see
Thwaites, _On the Storied Ohio_.--ED.




CHAPTER XVI

 Little and Big Hockhocking rivers--Belleville, and Mr. Wild on
    Mr. Avery’s large farm--Devil’s hole--Shade river--Buffington’s
    island--Neisanger’s.


We dropped down the stream gently three miles, to the end of
Blennerhasset’s island, a little beyond which, on the Ohio shore, we
observed a very good looking two story brick house, which as we had
been informed, is an excellent tavern owned and kept by Mr. Miles, but
we were not tempted to stop, as we had already breakfasted on bread
and milk in our skiff. Two miles and a quarter below Miles’s we passed
Little Hockhocking river on the right. It is about twenty-five yards
wide, and has a wooden bridge across it, and on its right bank is a
large square roofed house, handsomely situated.

A mile and a half below Little Hockhocking, we saw on our right a
remarkable cavern on the side of a craggy hill, and four miles lower,
having passed Newbury and Mustapha’s islands, the latter of which
is above a mile in length, and partly cultivated, we came to big
Hockhocking river on the right.[90] It is only about thirty yards wide
at its mouth, nevertheless it is navigable for keels and other small
craft {112} nearly seventy miles, a little above which highest point
of navigation, is situated the flourishing town of New Lancaster.

Two miles and a half below Hockhocking a rivulet called Lee’s creek,
puts in from the Virginia side, and half a mile further on the same
side, is the village of Belleville, or Belle-prè, finely situated on
a high bank, commanding a good view of the river both ways. There are
here only four or five cabins occupied by hunters and labourers, and
a tolerably good wooden house owned by a Mr. Avery from New-London in
Connecticut, who purchased a tract here of five miles front on the
river, and commenced this settlement about eleven years ago, but going
largely into ship building, he was so unfortunate in that business,
that in consequence he is now confined for debt in Wood county gaol.

A Mr. Wild, from Durham in Connecticut, who has been five years here,
resides in Mr. Avery’s house, and cultivates the farm, which is on a
handsome plain running back from the river, on which he has this season
seventy acres of corn and fifty of wheat, besides a large proportion of
meadow. He was very civil to us, insisting with much hospitality on our
taking some refreshment.

Last fall Mr. Avery’s barn with two thousand bushels of grain, several
stacks of grain, and a horse, grist and saw mills, were burnt by
incendiaries, who, though known, could not be brought to justice for
want of positive proof.

From Little Hockhocking the right bank is hilly and broken, and the
left an extensive bottom; both sides very thinly inhabited, to ten
miles below Belleville, in the last seven we not having observed
a single {113} cabin, though the land is level and rich. I cannot
account for the right shore not being settled, as it is part of the
Ohio Company’s purchase; but the reason on the Virginia side is, that
the heirs of general Washington to whom that valuable tract descended
on his death, ask for it no less than ten dollars per acre, so that
it will probably remain in its savage state as long as land can be
purchased cheaper in its neighbourhood, notwithstanding its good
situation and its excellent quality.[91]

After leaving Belleville we saw several bald eagles hovering about us.
They are about the size of large crows, and when on the wing have their
tails spread out in the form of a crescent.[92]

About the middle of this uninhabited tract, we observed on our right
a very remarkable large cavern called Devil’s hole: It is in the face
of a rock about half way up a steep hill close to the river. About
fifty rods further on the same hand we passed Shade river, which is a
considerable stream, and apparently very deep. During the war with the
Indians, a detachment of the Kentucky militia, ascended this river,
landed and destroyed some Indian encampments, but effected nothing of
moment.

Five miles below Shade river, we came to Buffington’s island, which is
partly cultivated and is about two miles long. Though that on the left
is the ship channel, we chose the one on the right, as it presented a
long narrow vista, which promised the strongest current: We found it
however very shallow, but beautifully picturesque. The river above the
island is about a quarter of a mile wide, but below, it is contracted
to about two hundred yards, and four miles lower, it is only one
hundred and twenty.

Though the river continues narrow, yet probably from the depth of its
bed the velocity of the current was not increased for a mile and a
quarter further to {114} Peter Neisanger’s fine farm, where we stopped
at half past seven o’clock.[93]

Fastening our skiff to a tree, we ascended the steep sloping bank to
the house, where we were received with cautious taciturnity by Mrs.
Neisanger, whose ungracious reception would have induced us to have
proceeded further, had not the evening been too far advanced for us
to arrive at better quarters before dark; and besides the state of
our stomachs rendered us insensible to an uncourteous reception:
We determined therefore to make our quarters good, though a few
minutes after, friend A----, repented of our resolution, on seeing
a figure scarcely meriting the name of human approaching him, where
he had gone alone in quest of some of the males of the family. It
had the appearance of a man above the middle age, strong and robust,
fantastically covered with ragged cloathing, but so dirty that it
was impossible to distinguish whether he was naturally a white or an
Indian--in either case he equally merited the appellation of _savage_.
A----, accosted him as lord of the soil, but he did not deign any
reply, on which he returned to me, where I was in the boat adjusting
our baggage, to consult with me whether we had not better proceed
farther; but first resolving to make one more attempt, we again mounted
the bank and found two men with rifles in their hands sitting at the
door, neither of whose aspects, nor the circumstance of their being
armed, were very inviting: As however we did not see the strange
apparition which A----, had described to me, we ventured to accost them.

The elder of the two was Neisanger.--Though he did not say us
“_nay_” to our request of supper, his “_yea_” was in the very extreme
of _bluntness_, and without either the manner or expression which
sometimes merits its having joined to it the adjective _honest_.

{115} They laid aside their rifles, and supper being announced by the
mistress of the cabin, we made a hearty meal on her brown bread and
milk, while she attended her self-important lord with all due humility,
as Sarah did Abraham; which patriarchal record in the scriptures, is
perhaps the original cause of a custom which I have observed to be
very common in the remote parts of the United States, of the wife not
sitting down to table until the husband and the strangers have finished
their meal.

During supper, Mr. Neisanger gradually relaxed from his blunt and
cautious brevity of speech, and we gathered from him that he had been
a great hunter and woodsman, in which occupation, he said that one man
may in one season kill two hundred deer and eighty bears.

He had changed his pursuit of the wild inhabitants of the forest about
nine years ago, for an agricultural life. Since that time he had
cleared a large tract of land, had planted three thousand fruit trees
on his farm, and had carried on a distillery of whiskey and peach
brandy, for the first of which he gets seventy-five cents per gallon,
and for the last a dollar.

After supper we took leave of this Nimrod of the west without much
regret, as our seats while under his roof had not been the most easy
to us, and we returned to our boat with more pleasure than we had done
heretofore.

We betook ourselves to rest on our platform, lulled to repose by
the mournful hooting of the owl, whose ill omened note was amply
compensated for by the delightful melody of the red bird, who awoke us
at early dawn with his grateful welcome to the returning day.[94]

From hence to Clarksburgh in Virginia is only seventy-five miles.


FOOTNOTES:

[90] For the Hockhocking River, see Croghan’s _Journals_, vol. i of
this series, p. 131, note 99.--ED.

[91] Washington admonished his executors in his will, not to dispose
of these lands too cheaply, and suggested a sale price of ten dollars
per acre. This particular tract became the property of six of his
grand-nieces, two of whom (named Fitzhugh) later settled in the
vicinity.--ED.

[92] The bald or white-headed eagle (_haliaëtus leucocephalus_), the
American national symbol.--ED.

[93] Peter Neisanger (or Niswonger) joined the Marietta colony in
1790. He was employed thereby as a ranger, and the succeeding year
gave timely warning to the people assembled at a church service of a
threatened Indian raid.--ED.

[94] The red-bird was either the scarlet tanager (_piranga rubra_),
or the cardinal grosbeak (_cardinalis virginianus_), both of which
frequent the Ohio shores.--ED.




{116} CHAPTER XVII

 Old-town creek, and a floating mill--Take two passengers, both curious
    characters--Laughable anecdote of a panick--Some of the customs of
    the backwoodsmen--Their fondness for, and mode of fighting--Their
    disregard of being maimed, illustrated by an anecdote--Le Tart’s
    falls--Graham’s station--Jones’s rocks.


Proceeding on Saturday 25th July at 5 in the morning--at six we were
three miles below Neisanger’s, abreast of Old-town creek on the right,
and a floating mill owned by an Irishman named Pickets. These kind of
mills are of a very simple construction--the whole machinery being in
a flat, moored to the bank, and the stones being put in motion by the
current. They have but little power, not being capable of grinding more
than from fifteen to twenty bushels of wheat per day.

We were here hailed by two men who offered to work their passage to the
falls. We took them on board, and one proved to be one Buffington, son
to the owner of Buffington’s island, from whom Pickets had purchased
his farm and mill, and the other was an eccentrick character, being
an old bachelor, without any fixed place of abode, residing sometimes
with one farmer and sometimes with another, between Marietta and
Galliopolis, and making a good deal of money by speculating in grain,
horses, hogs, cattle, or any thing he can buy cheap and sell dear.

Buffington was a very stout young man, and was going to the falls to
attend a gathering (as they phrase it in this country) at a justice’s
court, which squire Sears, who resides at the falls, holds on the
last Saturday of every month: He supposed there would be sixty or
seventy men there--some plaintiffs, and some defendants in causes of
small debts, actions of defamation, assaults, &c. and some to wrestle,
fight, {117} shoot at a mark with the rifle for wagers, gamble at other
games, or drink whiskey. He had his rifle with him and was prepared for
any kind of frolick which might be going forward. He was principally
induced to go there from having heard that another man who was to be
there, had said that he could _whip_ him (the provincial phrase for
beat.) After his frolick was ended he purposed returning home through
the woods.

He related a laughable story of a panick which seized the people of his
neighbourhood about two years ago, occasioned by a report being spread
that two hundred Indians were encamped for hostile purposes on the
banks of Shade river.

The Pickets’s and some others not accustomed to Indian war, forted
themselves, and hired Buffington to go and reconnoitre. He hunted, and,
to use his own language, _fooled_ in the woods three or four days; then
returned late in the evening to his own house, and discharged his two
rifles, giving the Indian yell after each, which so terrified the party
forted at Pickets’s, that the centinels threw down their rifles, and
ran into the river up to the belts of their hunting shirts. The whole
party followed--crossed the Ohio in canoes, and alarmed the Virginia
side by reporting that Buffington’s wife, and some others, who had not
been forted, were shot and scalped by the Indians; but when the truth
came out, they were much ashamed.

Buffington deals in cattle and hogs, which he occasionally drives to
the south branch of the Potomack, where they find a ready market for
the supply of Baltimore and the sea coast. The common price here is
about three dollars per cwt.

Two or three years ago when bear skins were worth from six to ten
dollars each, he and another man killed one hundred and thirty-five
bears in six weeks.

{118} It may not be improper to mention, that the backwoodsmen, as
the first emigrants from the eastward of the Allegheny mountains are
called, are very similar in their habits and manners to the aborigines,
only perhaps more prodigal and more careless of life. They depend
more on hunting than on agriculture, and of course are exposed to all
the varieties of climate in the open air. Their cabins are not better
than Indian wigwams. They have frequent meetings for the purposes of
gambling, fighting and drinking. They make bets to the amount of all
they possess. They fight for the most trifling provocations, or even
sometimes without any, but merely to try each others prowess, which
they are fond of vaunting of. Their hands, teeth, knees, head and feet
are their weapons, not only boxing with their fists, (at which they are
not to be compared for dexterity, to the lower classes in the seaports
of either the United States, or the British islands in Europe) but also
tearing, kicking, scratching, biting, gouging each others eyes out by
a dexterous use of a thumb and finger, and doing their utmost to kill
each other, even when rolling over one another on the ground; which
they are permitted to do by the byestanders, without any interference
whatever, until one of the parties gives out, on which they are
immediately separated, and if the conqueror seems inclined to follow
up his victory without granting quarter, he is generally attacked by a
fresh man, and a pitched battle between a single pair often ends in a
battle royal, where all present are engaged.

A stranger who had kept aloof during a fray of this kind, when it was
over, seeing a man with the top of his nose bit off, he approached him
and commiserated his misfortune. “Don’t pity me,” said the noseless
hero, “pity that fellow there,” pointing with one hand to another who
had lost an eye, and {119} shewing the eye which he held triumphantly
in the other.[95]

{120} Eight miles below Old-town creek we were carried through Le
Tart’s falls at the rate of six knots an hour, but the rapid, which it
ought to be called more properly than falls, is not more than half a
mile long.

Captain or squire Sears’s house, opposite to which we landed
our passengers, is very pleasantly situated on the left shore,
commanding a view of two islands above the falls, the nearest one in
cultivation,--the opposite shore variegated with low hills and valleys,
woods, cultivated fields and farm houses, a new water mill which he is
building on the right bank of the rapid, and the river below, taking a
sudden bend from N. W. to N. E. by N.

A mile and a half lower down we observed a large barge on the stocks in
the woods on the right bank.

Four miles from the falls we came to Graham’s station, which is a fine
populous settlement, extending about three miles along the left bank of
the river, from West creek to Wolfe’s farm house, which is charmingly
situated on a cliff. The Ohio side opposite is also well settled.

On passing Wolfe’s we asked a man at the door who it was that lived
there: He informed us, and {121} civilly invited us to land and quench
our thirst at a fine spring on the beach; but we declined stopping, as
we had filled our water cask at Pickets’s mill.

There is a ferry across the Ohio about the middle of Graham’s station,
which connects a road from Big to Little Kenhawa, sixteen miles to the
former and thirty to the latter.[96]

Nine miles below Wolfe’s, Jones’s rocks, on a hill on the right have a
striking appearance. They are of freestone, bare, and heaped upon each
other, resembling some of the old Turkish fortifications so numerous in
the Levant.

On a small bottom between them and the river, in a very romantick
situation, is a farm, seven years old, belonging to a Mr. Jones, who
informed us that there is a vein of good coal about a quarter of a mile
from his house.

This was the first house we had observed for the last eight miles,
though the land on the Virginia side, owned by one Waggoner, seems to
be of the first quality.


FOOTNOTES:

[95] This indeed is a most lamentable picture of the depravity of
human nature, and might have applied better fifteen or twenty years
ago than at present. But our author ought to have confined it to a
_particular_ frontier, and to a _few_ individuals; for it is by no
means the character of _all_ our backwoodsmen, nor are such ferocious
and more than beast-like battles customary on the borders of all our
frontier settlements. Nor can we believe even the more profligate among
the class here spoken of, would _purposely_ meet (unless indeed in an
actual state of warfare) to fight, to gouge, and to tear each others
flesh to pieces in the manner described; but that fighting, gouging,
&c. might be the _consequence_ of such meetings and carousings, we
have little doubt, especially where whiskey is the common drink of the
country. There are always a few diabolically wicked in all societies
of men, rude or civilized; but it would be unjust to libel a _whole_
community because of the wickedness and profligacy of a _few_.

It is observable that European travellers frequently misrepresent us
by giving for a _general_ character, that which is _particular_; hence
they mislead their readers into the most monstrous blunders as respects
the true features of our national character, while they do us a greater
piece of injustice than they might have intended. As an instance
of this the following quotation from “_Volney’s View of the United
States_,” will suffice: Speaking of the Philadelphia mode of eating and
drinking, he observes:

“At breakfast they deluge the stomach with a pint of hot water,
slightly impregnated with tea, or slightly tinctured, or rather
coloured, with coffee; and they swallow, almost without mastication,
hot bread, half baked, soaked in melted butter, with the grossest
cheese, and salt or hung beef, pickled pork or fish, all which can with
difficulty be dissolved.

“At dinner they devour boiled pastes, called, absurdly, puddings,
garnished with the most luscious sauces. Their turnips and other
vegetables are floated in lard or butter. Their pastry is nothing but
a greasy paste, imperfectly baked. To digest these various substances,
they take tea, _immediately after dinner_, so strong that it is bitter
to the taste, as well as utterly destructive of the nervous system.
Supper presently follows, with salt meat and shell fish in its train.
Thus passes the whole day, in heaping one indigestive mass upon
another. To brace the exhausted stomach, wine, rum, gin, malt spirits,
or beer, are used with dreadful prodigality.”

I am a native American, have passed through most of the American
states, and never drank, nor saw drunk, at either publick or private
table, “_tea immediately after dinner_,” nor never heard of a practice
of the kind in any of the states, hence I think I have reason to
conclude Mr. Volney _erroneous_ in giving this as the _general_
custom of a people; and think it probable he drew his conclusions
from the _particular_ practice of a _few_ families, in which he might
have lodged; and which might have altered their usual mode of eating
and drinking, in order to accommodate the supposed habits of this
great traveller, he being a native of France, where it is well-known
coffee is much used after dinner. How much more would the publick be
benefitted by the remarks of travellers on the manners and customs of
countries, would they divest themselves of their prejudices, passions,
and partialities, and confine themselves to the relation of simple
truths. Methinks a traveller who intends to publish his travels, ought
to be a _philosopher_, in the true sense of the word.--CRAMER.

[96] Rev. William Graham, who had been for twenty-one years president
of the first academy west of the Blue Ridge, becoming imbued with a
missionary spirit, bought six thousand acres of the Washington lands
and attempted to found a Presbyterian colony thereon. He brought out
several families in 1798, but returning the next year died at Richmond,
whereupon his colonists grew discouraged and withdrew. The place,
however, has retained to this day its name of Graham’s Station.--ED.




CHAPTER XVIII

 Fine situations and well inhabited banks--A gay party--Slate and coal
    strata--Point Pleasant--River Kenhawa--Battle of Point Pleasant--
    Lord Dunmore’s campaign against the Indians--Indians justified--
    Reasons why there are but few writers in their favour--Short account
    of the causes of the last Indian war, and the settlement of
    Kentucky.


Two miles and a half below Jones’s is Leading creek, a beautiful
little river with high sloping banks on the right, and just below it a
Mr. Kerr has a good log house, and a garden with a handsome stoccado
{122} fence, behind which is a small cleared farm. A vein of coal is
said to be on the Virginia side opposite, not much approved of by the
blacksmiths, probably because not wrought deep enough. Three miles
further on the right is a very good, new, two story house, clapboarded,
and painted white, and a large horse mill; and half a mile lower on the
opposite shore is a large unfinished house, lately purchased by a Mr.
Long from Col. Clendinning, who began to build it nine years ago.[97]
It resembles a church, and is not only a good feature in the prospect,
but impresses the traveller with lively ideas of the advanced state of
population of the neighbouring country.--Close to it is a small hamlet,
or quarter, of a few cabins, the whole in a beautiful situation on a
high bank commanding a view of Eight Mile island, just below, and both
banks of the river, which are here well inhabited and very pleasant.

Two miles lower is Six Mile island, very small, and half a mile beyond
it on the left is a house most delightfully situated, commanding the
whole vista of the river seven miles up to Leading creek, with the two
intermediate islands. The house is sheltered from the northern blasts
of winter by a fine grove purposely left standing, when the surrounding
farm was cleared.

I observed that in general, from Le Tart’s falls, trees were left
standing very tastily in places where they can have a good or pleasing
effect, particularly the gigantick beeches along the margin of the
river.

About a mile lower down, we met a large canoe, paddled against the
stream by five well drest young men, while a respectable looking
elderly man steered. They had five very smart looking girls with
them, and, from their gaiety, were apparently returning from some
_frolick_--the epithet used in this country for all neighbourly
meetings for the purpose of assisting each other in finishing some
domestick or farming {123} business, which generally conclude with
feasting and dancing, which sometimes lasts two or three days, and is
not seldom the fruitful source of many a tender and lasting connexion.

Near this we perceived a stratum of slate over one of coal, but the
latter too much under the level of the river to be wrought. The slate
stratum extends several rods, and is topped and squared as if done by
art.

It may not be amiss to remark that all strata throughout the whole of
this western country, have been hitherto found to be horizontal.

The banks from hence four miles to Point Pleasant are apparently rich
with good bottoms on both sides, yet but thinly inhabited.

Point Pleasant, where we arrived at seven o’clock in the evening, is
beautifully situated on a bank, at least forty feet above the common
level of the Ohio, at the conflux of the Great Kenhawa with that river.
It contains twenty-one indifferent houses, including a court-house of
square logs, this being the seat of justice of Mason county. The town
does not thrive on account of the adjacent country not settling so fast
as the opposite side in the state of Ohio, where lands can be bought in
small tracts for farms, by real settlers, at a reasonable rate, whereas
the Virginia lands belonging mostly to wealthy and great landholders,
are held at four or five times the Ohio price.

The river Ohio is here six hundred yards wide, and the Kenhawa is two
hundred and twenty-five, the latter navigable about eighty miles to the
falls.

On the 10th of October, 1774, a battle was fought here by the Virginia
and Pennsylvania militia under general Lewis, against the Indians, who
had attacked them in great force, but were defeated and compelled to
retreat across the Ohio, carrying their dead and wounded with them
according to their invariable custom; as, like the ancient Greeks, they
deem it an {124} irreparable disgrace, to leave the unburied bodies of
their slain fellow warriours to the disposal of the victorious enemy.
The Americans bought their victory at the expense of a number of their
most active men, amongst whom was Col. Lewis, brother to the general, a
brave and enterprizing officer. They were buried near the edge of the
river bank, which has since mouldered away, occasionally discovering
their remains to the present inhabitants, who have always re-interred
them.

This was a military station above thirty years ago. It is twenty years
since it was laid out for a town, but it had no houses erected in
consequence until after Wayne’s Indian treaty, it being unsafe before
to live outside the stoccado.

Lord Dunmore, who was then governour of Virginia, and
commander-in-chief on the expedition against the Indians, at the
time of the battle of Point Pleasant, had penetrated by the way of
Wheeling across the Ohio, to within a short march of their principal
settlement, near where Chilicothe now is; when, instead of following
up Lewis’s success, while they were yet under the influence of the
panick occasioned by it, and by his lordship’s approach with the main
body of the militia, and of exterminating them, or of driving them out
of the country, he received their submission and patched up a treaty
with them, which they observed no longer than during the short time
that he continued with a military force in their country, for which he
was much blamed by the back settlers and hunters. Humanity, however,
must plead his excuse with every thinking or philosophick mind; and
volumes might be written to prove the justice of the Indian cause;
but in all national concerns, it has never been controverted by the
history of mankind from the earliest ages of which we have any record,
but that interest and power always went hand in hand to serve the
mighty against the {125} weak, and writers are never wanting to aid the
cause of injustice, barbarity and oppression, with the sophistry of a
distorted and unnatural philosophy; while the few who would be willing
to espouse the rights of the feeble, have not enough of the spirit of
chivalry, to expose themselves to an irreparable loss of time, and the
general obloquy attending an unpopular theme: even in this so much
boasted land of liberty and equality, where nothing is to be dreaded
from the arbitrary acts of a king and council during a suspension of a
habeas corpus law, or the mandate of an arbitrary hero in the full tide
of victory.

Is not popular opinion frequently as tyrannical as star chambers, or
lettres de cachets?

The Indians north of the Ohio, under the name of the Five Nations, and
their dependants, had been gradually, but rapidly, forced back more and
more remote from the country of their ancestors, by the irresistible
and overswelling tide of population of Europeans and their descendants.
They at last abandoned all the continent of America east of the great
chain of the Allegheny mountains, to the enlightened intruders, and
besides that natural barrier, they added an immense wilderness of
nearly five hundred miles in breadth, west of those mountains, to the
space which divided them; settling themselves in that country which
has since become the state of Ohio, having Lake Erie for its northern
boundary, and the river Ohio for its southern. The woods and savannahs
to the southward of that river abounded in game, such as buffaloes,
deer, elk, bears, and innumerable smaller animals, valuable for their
flesh, skins, and furs. They were tempted to make hunting excursions
into this country, during which they frequently met with parties of
hunters of other Indian nations, called Chocktaws, Chickasaws, and
Cherokees, who resided far south of it, but who had been accustomed to
consider it as their exclusive property {126} for hunting in, from time
immemorial. Battles with various success were generally the consequence
of those meetings. The southern Indians were the most numerous--the
northern the most warlike.

Finding that they exhausted each other to no purpose, by such constant
hostility, necessity at last obliged them to make a peace, the basis
of which was, that the hunting country should be common to both as
such, to the exclusion of all other people, and that neither would ever
settle on it themselves, nor permit others to do so.

They enjoyed in quiet the uninterrupted use of this immense common
forest, for many years after; but the Virginians having extended their
settlements to the westward of the mountains, the frontier inhabitants,
who, like the aborigines, supported themselves principally by hunting,
were led in quest of game, as far west as the banks of Kentucky river,
in the very centre of the Indian hunting country.

On their return to their settlements, the report spread from them
to the colonial government, that they had discovered a country most
abundant in game, and far exceeding in natural fertility any of the
settled parts of Virginia.

Small armed parties were sent out to establish blockhouses for the
protection of hunters or settlers, while the lands were divided into
tracts and granted or sold to proprietors, as suited the convenience of
the government.

The Indians, indignant at being followed to so remote a part of the
continent, after the great sacrifice to peace before made by them in
the abandonment of their native country, did their utmost to repel the
invaders. The northern tribes were the most ferocious and the most
exasperated, and sometimes alone, and sometimes aided by their southern
auxiliaries, carried on a most bloody and exterminating war against
all the whites who had the temerity to brave {127} their decided and
fixed determination to adhere to their mutual guarantee of their
hunting grounds.

Much blood was shed on both sides, and many parties of the whites were
cut off, but their perseverance at last prevailed, and Kentucky became
one of the United States of America.

The negro who carried our baggage from the boat to the tavern,
regretted much that we had not arrived a little earlier in the
day, to get some of the people’s money who had been assembled at a
gathering. On our inquiring “how”--he replied by asking if we were
not _play-actors_, and if we had not got our _puppetshew things_ in
some of the trunks and boxes we had with us. He had probably conceived
this idea from our having in the skiff a large box of medicines, which
we had taken in at Marietta for a doctor Merrit at French Grant, and
besides we had more baggage than it was usual for him to see carried by
travellers, who had occasion to stop at Point Pleasant.

Our landlord’s name was John Allen, a young man, who had lived here
since his infancy twenty years.--On a late journey to Richmond he had
married a young woman there, who sat at supper with us, but who seemed
to wish to appear rather above the doing the honours of a tavern table.
He had lately been chosen one of the members of the legislature for
Mason county, and seemed fond of discussing politicks, but apparently
more for the sake of information, than for insisting _dogmatically_,
according to the prevailing mode, on any opinion of his own. In
short, he seemed to regret the blind illiberality of the improperly
self-termed federalists, and of their equally prejudiced democratick
antagonists, and seemed desirous of meriting the character of a
disinterested patriot, and a federal republican in its real and literal
sense, without perhaps understanding either term.


FOOTNOTES:

[97] Colonel George Clendennin, a prominent pioneer of Western
Virginia, was born in Scotland in 1746. His first services in the West
were in Colonel Lewis’s army at the battle of Point Pleasant (1774).
Later he bought the site of Charleston, West Virginia, and laid out
the town (1788). The house on the Ohio which Cuming saw had been
built by Clendennin in 1796; the following year, however, he died at
Marietta.--ED.




{128} CHAPTER XIX

 Galliopolis--A Canadian boat’s crew--Menager’s store and tavern--Mons.
    and Madame Marion--A family migrating from Baltimore--Red
    Birds--Meridian creek--Mercer’s and Green’s bottoms--Hanging
    rock--Federal creek--Bowden’s.


On Sunday 26th July, we left Point Pleasant, and passing Great Kenhawa
river on our left, and Galliopolis island, half a mile long on the
right, at 7 we landed on the Ohio side, at Galliopolis four miles below
Point Pleasant.

We found at the landing a keel loaded with lead from Kaskaskias on
the Mississippi;[98] It was worked by eight stout Canadians, all
naked, except a breech clout. They are the descendants of the original
French settlers, and they resemble the Indians both in their manners
and customs, and complexion; which last is occasioned by their
being exposed naked to all weathers from their infancy; which also
renders them very hardy, and capable of enduring much fatigue. They
are temperate in the use of spiritous liquors, while engaged in any
laborious employment, but they must be fed with double the quantity of
food which would suffice American or English labourers. The meat which
they prefer is bacon or salt pork, of which they use daily about four
pounds each man, besides bread and potatoes.

They are preferred to any other description of people for navigating
the craft on the rivers in this country, being patient, steady, and
trusty, and never deserting their boats until their engagement is
fulfilled, which the American boatmen frequently do.

We got an excellent breakfast at Mr. Menager’s, a French emigrant,
who keeps a tavern and a store of very well assorted goods, which he
goes yearly to Baltimore to purchase. He is a native of Franche {129}
Comté, and his wife is from Burgundy. They are very civil and obliging,
and have a fine family. It is fifteen years since they arrived in this
country, together with nearly 800 emigrants from France, of whom only
about twenty families now remain at Galliopolis; the rest having either
returned to France, descended the Ohio to French Grant, proceeded to
the banks of the Mississippi, or fallen victims to the insalubrity
of the climate, which however no longer, or only partially exists,
as it has gradually ameliorated in proportion to the progress of
settlement.[99]

Menager has a curious machine for drawing water from his well forty or
fifty feet deep, and which will answer equally well for any depth. He
got the model from Mr. Blennerhasset. As I am not mechanick enough to
give an adequate description of it, I shall only remark, that it is
equally simple and ingenuous, and saves much labour; the full bucket
flying up and emptying itself into a small wooden cistern, while the
empty bucket sinks at the same time into the well, and that without
being obliged to work a winch as in the common mode, where wells are
too deep for pumps.

In Galliopolis there are about fifty houses all of wood, in three long
streets parallel to the river, crossed at right angles by six shorter
ones, each one hundred feet wide. A spacious square is laid out in the
centre, on which they are now making brick to build a court-house for
Gallia county.

During a walk through the town after breakfast, we were civilly
accosted by an old man at the door of the most western house, who
invited us to enter and rest ourselves. He was named Marion, and with
his old wife, reminded me of Baucis and Philemon, or of Darby and Joan.
They came here with the first emigrants from Burgundy--bought some
town lots, on which they planted fruit trees, and converted into corn
fields, as they could not procure tenants {130} nor purchasers to build
on them. They have no children--they seem much attached to each other,
and are healthy, and content with their situation.--They insisted with
much hospitality on our tasting the old lady’s manufacture of cherry
bounce, before they knew that we could converse with them in their
native tongue; but, when they found that we could not only do so, but
that I could make a subject of conversation of their own country, and
even of their own province, from having visited it long since they had
bid it a final adieu--it was with difficulty they would permit us to
leave them, before we had spent at least one day with them. Indeed I
never saw the amor patriæ more strongly manifested, than in the fixed
and glistening eyes, which they rivetted on my face, whilst I described
the present state of their provincial capital Dijon.

Galliopolis abounds with fruit, to the planting of which, French
settlers always pay great attention; but the town does not thrive,
although very pleasantly situated on an extensive flat.

Pursuing our voyage at ten o’clock, half a league below Galliopolis, we
passed a skiff containing a family, the head of which was a carpenter
and farmer from Baltimore, going to Green river about five hundred
miles lower down.

At two o’clock we had rowed fourteen miles, having passed Racoon island
and creek on the right, during which the bottom was so extensive on
each side, that we could not see the tops of the river hills over the
banks. We were here charmed with the melody of the red birds responding
to each other from the opposite banks, particularly on passing Racoon
island. Our exercise having given us an appetite, we landed and dined
under a shady bank on the right, opposite to a creek, which from that
circumstance, and its not being noticed in our chart or Navigator, we
named Meridian creek.

{131} Here we began to see again the tops of the low river hills on
the right, but on the left the extensive bottom still continued,
notwithstanding which the settlements are very thinly scattered,
especially for the last eight miles.

At half past two we were abreast of Eighteen mile creek on the right,
so called from its being that distance from Point Pleasant.

Five miles from where we dined is Swan creek, a handsome rivulet on the
right, and Mercer’s bottom, a fine settlement on the left, and a mile
further, it is separated from Green’s bottom by the Little Guiandot, a
beautiful small river.

Green’s bottom settlements, which are very fine and populous, extend
along the left bank three miles, and a mile beyond them the river hills
approaching within a quarter of a mile of the bank, a remarkable cliff
called the Hanging rock, impends from about half their height, and they
again recede. On the right opposite to Hanging rock, is a bank of clay
under which is a substratum of fine potter’s clay.

It is two miles from Green’s bottom to the next settlement. A gust
threatening, we stopped to shelter at it--but the house was locked up,
and no one at home. Every thing here testified to its being an honest
neighbourhood, as the smoke-house was left open, with a quantity of
fine bacon in it--a crib was full of corn, and shirts and jackets were
left drying on the garden fence.

After the shower, we went on three miles to Miller’s farm house at
the mouth of Federal creek on the right, where we landed and bought
some salt pork for stores, and some milk for supper. Miller seems to
be active and industrious, and keeps a keel boat for freighting on the
river, but he says he gets very little encouragement.[100]

It was now half past six, and in an hour and three quarters we rowed
eight miles further, when it coming {132} on dark, and I not being
willing to lose the view of any part of the river, we stopped at
Joel Bowden’s tavern and farm on the right, contrary to A----’s wish
of letting the boat float down the current all night. Though we had
provided our supper, yet we preferred ordering one at Bowden’s, for the
sake of whiling away a little time, and gaining information about the
country.

He had removed his family here from Marietta in April 1806, and had to
begin to clear away the forest to make room for a cabin, and he now has
twelve acres completely cut, grubbed and smooth, and eight acres cut,
but not grubbed, all planted and under fence, besides a natural orchard
of sugar maple of seven acres, out of which he has cleared every thing
else except about four hundred sugar trees, which will be enough to
supply his family with sugar.[101]

{133} He has also planted an apple and peach orchard and a nursery,
and will cut six tons of hay this year. Such instances of industry
and perseverance are frequently seen in this country amongst the New
England settlers, of which Bowden is one, who are generally remarkably
enterprising, and judiciously economical. His house not promising
superior accommodation for sleep to our skiff, we re-embarked after
supper, and on our platform enjoyed undisturbed repose, until five
o’clock next morning, when we loosed from the bank, and proceeded at
our usual rate of from three to four miles an hour.


FOOTNOTES:

[98] For the history of the French settlement of Kaskaskia, see
Michaux’s _Travels_, vol. iii of this series, p. 69, note 132.--ED.

[99] For a history of the settlement of Gallipolis and the French
Grant, see Michaux’s _Travels_, vol. iii of this series, pp. 182-185.

Claudius R. Menager, one of the original emigrants, had been a baker,
and made use of his skill both as a merchant and tavern-keeper. He
became the richest man in the colony, and died much respected.--ED.

[100] Miller removed from Washington County, Pennsylvania, and was
one of the first Methodists of this part of West Virginia. Upon his
petition a preacher was sent to the backwoods settlements in 1803.
Bishop Morris, an eminent divine of the same denomination, was born
here in 1798, and passed his early years in this vicinity.--ED.

[101] Would it not be a wise and prudent foresight in the present
generation, in order that posterity might continue to enjoy the product
of this invaluable tree, to plant orchards of them on the sides of
untillable hills and other vacant grounds of little or no use? They
might become a source of considerable wealth, in the course of twenty
or thirty years, when the country gets thickly populated, and the trees
made scarce from the present plan of destroying them in clearing of the
lands. The expense of setting out an orchard of 500 or 1000 trees on
each plantation, might cost, say, twenty-five cents each tree, together
with the interest of the money for thirty years, at which period they
would be worth about one dollar per year for about fifty or a hundred
years thereafter. The following observations on the Maple tree, we copy
from Dr. _Mease’s_ “_Geological account of the United States_:”

“The genus _acer_, or maple, is useful for various purposes. The _a.
negundo_, or white or ash leaved maple, is much used in cabinet work,
being firm and smooth, takes a fine polish, and stain. The _a. rubrum_,
or scarlet maple, when sawed into boards, exhibits the most beautiful
waving appearance, and makes articles of furniture equal to satin
wood. A species of maple abounds in Nova Scotia, and no doubt, farther
south, called bird-eye maple, which also is very beautiful. But the _a.
saccharinum_, or sugar maple, ranks in the first importance among our
forest trees. This valuable native is peculiarly dear to the citizens
of this country, as it furnishes an article of the first necessity,
by the labour of free men, and of equal quality, to that produced by
the sugar cane; and the timber is highly useful for various mechanical
purposes, particularly for saddle trees. From the maple may also be
made a pleasant molasses, an agreeable beer, a strong sound wine, and
an excellent vinegar.

“The following facts upon the flowing of maple-juice, are curious, and
deserve investigation.

“The flowing of maple-juice is as completely _locked up_ by continued
warmth as by frost, and only flows by the alternate operation of
these agents. Yet the same degrees of heat, even after frost, have
not always the same effect. Thus, a warm south wind stops the flowing
more than a cool north-west wind. To judge from sensations, generally
a bracing wind facilitates the discharge, and a relaxing wind acts to
the contrary. Whether, or how far, electricity may operate in this
case, must be left for future inquirers to determine. The juice flows
for about twenty-four hours after a frost; but, when a tapped tree has
ceased, tap a new tree, and it will flow considerably, as if a certain
quantity was discharged by the frost. The juice flows from all sides of
the incision.

“Cut a sugar maple early in the morning, if the night has been cold,
and it will appear comparatively dry and devoid of juice, in every part
of the tree. Cut it a few hours after, if the day is moderately warm,
and the juice will issue almost in streams.”--CRAMER.




{134} CHAPTER XX

 Big Guiandot river--Crumps’s farm--Inhospitable reception--General
    remark--Two hunters--Cotton plantation, and gin for cleaning the
    cotton--Snakes--Remedy for their bite--Great Sandy river--State
    boundary--Hanging rock.


Six miles below Bowden’s, we passed Big Guiandot river which joins
the Ohio from the left, and is about eighty yards wide, having one
Buffington’s finely situated house and farm on the bank just below it.
From Bowden’s to Big Guiandot, the banks of the Ohio are well settled
on both sides. In the next eleven miles, we passed three creeks on the
right, and one on the left hand, the second one called Indian Guiandot,
only worth remarking. It coming on to rain very heavy, we stopped here
at the end of eleven miles, just above the mouth of a fine little river
on the left called Twelve Pole creek, about thirty yards wide, with a
ferry and a large scow or flat for carrying over horses or cattle. The
house we stopped at was very well situated on the top of a high sloping
bank, and was the residence of one Crumps, who had removed here from
Kentucky, and possessed the rich and well cultivated surrounding farm.
The family were at breakfast, but no place was offered at the table to
the wet travellers, though it was well loaded with viands, which Mr.
Crumps apparently knew how to make the best use of for fattening, as
his corpulency and general appearance strongly indicated a propensity
to boorish gluttony. Indeed we were not permitted to enter the eating
room, but with a sort of sullen civility, were desired to sit down
in an open space which divides two enclosed ends from each other,
but all covered with the same roof, and which is the usual style of
the cottages in this part of the country. The space in the middle is
probably {135} left unenclosed, for the more agreeable occupancy of
the family during the violent heats of summer.

I have observed that wherever we have stopped on the banks of the
river, we have rarely experienced that hospitality, which might be
expected to prevail amongst people so remote from polished society.

Two hunters sat down with us after they had finished their breakfast,
and they entertained us above an hour with their feats of deer and bear
killing, in which the one always related something more extraordinary
than the other. At last they bantered each other to go out and kill a
deer.

It still rained very heavy, but nothing deterred by it, they each took
their rifle, stuck their tomahawks into the belts of their hunting
shirts, and accompanied by a fine dog, led by a string to prevent his
breaking (or hunting the game beyond the reach of their rifles) they
set off for the woods.

Seeing some cotton regularly planted on the opposite side of the river,
on inquiry, I learned that from hence down the Ohio, a good deal of
cotton is raised, although on account of its not standing the winter,
it must be planted every year. Though the climate farther south is more
congenial to it, it is nevertheless an annual throughout the continent
to the northward of Cape Florida, differing from the countries between
the tropicks, where I have sometimes seen the same plants bear to the
seventh year; but that only in places where it was neglected, as the
common usage there is to replant every third or fourth year. A few
miles from Crumps’s there is a large gin worked by two men, which can
clean seven hundred pounds per day; the toll for ginning is one eighth
of the quantity cleaned.

The copperhead snake[102] abounds here, but the rattlesnake is scarce.
Crumps told us that the bark of the root of the poplar, particularly
the yellow poplar, made into a strong decoction and taken inwardly,
{136} while a part pounded and applied to the bite of any snake, is an
infallible remedy: And that it is also a most powerful alterative, and
purifier of the blood.

There being no prospect of the rain subsiding, at eleven o’clock we
proceeded, sitting under our awning and letting the boat drop with the
current, which she did about two miles an hour.

At half past twelve we passed Great Sandy river on the left, four miles
below Crumps’s. It is about a hundred yards wide, and is the boundary
between Virginia and Kentucky; in the latter of which, on the bank
above the confluence, are two large houses, one of logs and the other
framed and clapboarded, with a sign post before the door--probably the
scite of some future town.[103]

Three miles from hence are two small creeks opposite each other, and a
good brick house building at the mouth of that on the left. Three miles
and a half further is Big Storm creek on the right, a mile and a half
below which, we passed on the left, an excellent house of a Mr. Colvin,
nearly opposite to which, on the right is a small insulated mountain
named Hanging Rock, from its being a bare perpendicular rock, from half
the elevation to the top.

This is a very picturesque and agreeable object to the eye, fatigued
with the perpetual sameness of the banks below Point Pleasant.

Two miles further on the right, a little way below Ferguson’s sand
bar, we observed a wharf or pier of loose paving stones, and some mill
machinery on the bank above it--the remains of a floating mill carried
away last winter by the floods.

Half a mile below this is a remarkable point, and fine beach of coarse
gravel on the right, and a delightfully situated farm almost opposite.

Judge Boon has a good house on the left about three miles further
down,[104] opposite to which on the Ohio side is the beginning of
French Grant.

{137} The Ohio which had ran generally between the south and west,
(except for about thirty miles near Le Tart’s falls where it takes a
northerly course) had altered its direction to the north westward, from
the confluence of Big Sandy river.


FOOTNOTES:

[102] The copperhead (_trigonocephalus contortrix_), a rather
small venomous snake, gives no warning before it bites. The name
was, therefore, applied during the War of Secession to disloyal
Northerners.--ED.

[103] This was the future town of Catlettsburg. The first land was
surveyed on the Big Sandy in 1770, when Washington laid out bounty
lands for Captain John Savage’s company, who had served in the French
and Indian War.--ED.

[104] This was Jesse Boone, son of the well-known pioneer Daniel,
who had removed to Missouri with his other sons in 1798. Jesse Boone
remained behind, was inspector of salt-works for West Virginia, and
justice of the Kentucky county court for Greenup. This information
is derived from personal relation of Nathan Boone, another son, in
Wisconsin Historical Society Draper MSS., 6 S 212.--ED.




CHAPTER XXI

 French Grant--Dreadful epidemick disorder--Distressing scene
    occasioned by it--Mons Gervais and Burrsburgh--Greenupsburgh--Power
    of hunger proved--Little Sciota river--Portsmouth--Paroquets.


A little below judge Boon’s we were hailed by a man on the Ohio
shore. We landed and found him to be a Mr. White, who had put a box
of medicines into our boat at Marietta, for doctor Merrit, and having
travelled on horseback had arrived here before us.

We now delivered it to White, who, hearing A---- call me Doctor, he
requested me to stop and visit a Mr. Hunt, who with two of his men and
his housekeeper, were suffering under a most severe epidemick malady,
which was then raging in and about French Grant, and which doctor
Merrit, the only medical man in the settlement, had been attacked with
yesterday. Prompted by humanity, we walked to the cabin occupied by
Mr. Hunt’s family, where we beheld a truly distressing scene. In an
Indian grass hammock, lay Mr. Hunt, in a desperate and hopeless stage
of the yellow fever; his skin and eyes of a deep yellow, and he in a
state of apparent stupor, but still sensible. His housekeeper, looking
almost as ill, and groaning piteously, on a bed near him. One of his
men seated on a chair, in a {138} feeble state of convalescence; and
another standing by almost recovered, but still looking wretchedly. On
the floor were travelling trunks, cases, books, furniture, and house
utensils, promiscuously jumbled together, but all clean, as was the
cabin itself.

I could not help contrasting in my mind Mr. Hunt’s present situation,
at so great a distance from his connexions, from cultivated society,
and from medical aid, with what it was, when he represented his native
state of New Hampshire in congress, or during his travels in Europe.
Such are some of the hardships and inconveniences attending the first
settlers in a new country.[105]

After approving what doctor Merrit had prescribed, and recommending a
continuance of his regimen and advice, which consisted of alterative
catharticks followed by tonicks, we took our leave, impressed with the
opinion that Mr. Hunt had but a few hours longer of existence, which
also seemed to be his own opinion, as when I addressed a few cheering
words to him, he only answered by shaking his head and closing his
eyes. I supposed the rest of the family would recover. White is an
intelligent man, and makes a trade of sinking wells, of which he has
sunk a very fine one, of forty-five feet deep for Mr. Hunt, near a good
two story house almost finished.

French Grant contains twenty-four thousand acres, given by the United
States to some French settlers, who had been disappointed in the titles
of their purchases at Galliopolis, amongst whom a Mons. Gervais[106]
had for his part four thousand acres, on which he planned a town, which
he named Burrsburgh, in honour of the then vice president: but after
passing ten solitary years in a small log cabin, with no society except
that of his dog and cat, during which time he employed himself in
cultivating his little garden, he last year sold his whole tract to Mr.
Hunt, except two hundred and seventeen acres, given by him to an {139}
agent in Philadelphia, as a recompence for his having enabled him to
fulfil the engagement to government by which he held the land. He now
lives in Galliopolis, and Mr. Hunt has changed the intended Burrsburgh
into a farm.

On our walk to the boat I gave White some directions for himself as
preventive to the prevailing disorder, for which he thanked me, and
asked our charge for the freight of doctor Merrit’s box in such a
manner as to preclude the possibility of making any.

We then crossed the river at Greenupsburgh, the seat of justice of
Greenup county, in Kentucky. It is laid out for a town within the last
year, but it contains as yet only one dwelling house, occupied by one
Lyons as a tavern, where the courts are held; immediately in the rear
of which is a strong and wretched dungeon of double logs, called the
gaol, with a pillory between. Little Sandy river, about seventy yards
wide, flows into the Ohio just below Greenupsburgh.

It was almost dark when we landed at Lyons’s. We ordered supper,
during the preparation of which Mrs. Lyons requested my advice for her
husband, who had been seized that morning by the prevailing fever. I
wrote a prescription for him _secundum artem_, which I thought fully
equivalent to our supper, but as she gave us no credit for it in our
bill, she probably supposed that a travelling doctor ought to prescribe
gratis.

We had an excellent supper of tea, nice broiled chickens, and fine
biscuit, to which travelling and rowing gave us good appetite,
notwithstanding we saw our landlady take the table cloth from under her
sick husband’s bed clothes. After this let not the delicate town bred
man affect disgust at the calls of nature being satisfied in a manner
he is unused to, as {140} in a similar situation, I will venture to
assert, he would do as we did.

After supper, we dropped down the stream about a mile, then anchored
with a stone at the end of a rope, at a little distance from the shore,
and went to sleep.

Proceeding, on the twenty-eighth, at the dawn of day, by half past
five we were abreast of Green township, a small hamlet of six or seven
houses, on the right, in French Grant, three miles below Greenupsburgh.
Six miles lower, we left on the right, Little Sciota river, about
thirty yards wide.

Half a mile further, on the same side, we passed a stratum of iron ore,
and a mile below that, a stony point projecting and sloping downwards,
forming a fine harbour for boats, when the point is not overflowed.
Tiger creek, about twenty yards wide, and apparently navigable for
boats, flows in from the Kentucky side, three miles lower down,
opposite to which, from Little Sciota river, the bottoms are very
narrow, being confined by a picturesque range of low rocky cliffs and
mountains, with a few straggling pines overtopping the other trees on
their summits.

Three miles further we stopped at Portsmouth on the right, and
breakfasted at John Brown’s tavern. Mr. Brown is a magistrate and
keeps a store. After breakfast, the wind blowing too fresh up the
river for us to make any progress without great labour, I walked to
the upper end of the town, through a straight street, parallel to the
Ohio, about half a mile long, on the top of a handsome sloping bank. I
returned by a back street, which brought me to the banks of the Scioto,
which river, running from the northward, falls into the Ohio a mile
below Portsmouth, at an angle of thirty-three degrees, leaving only
sufficient room between the two rivers for two parallel streets, on the
one of which fronting the Ohio, building lots of a quarter of an acre,
now sell at fifty dollars each. There is a {141} narrow level near a
mile long below the town to the point of junction of the Scioto with
the Ohio, which cannot be built on, as it is annually inundated by the
spring floods: there is now a fine field of corn on it, and it would
all make excellent meadow. Mr. Massie, of Chilicothe, who is proprietor
of both it and the town, asks fifteen hundred dollars for it, though it
does not appear to contain fifty acres.[107]

Portsmouth is in a handsome and healthy situation, though rather too
much confined by the Scioto’s approach to the Ohio, so far above its
confluence with that river. It is likely to become a town of some
consequence, as it is the capital of the county of Scioto. It is only
two years since it was laid out, and it now contains twenty houses,
some of which are of brick, and most of them very good. I was shewn the
scite of a court-house intended to be erected immediately.

Alexandria, in sight, below the mouth of the Scioto, is on a high,
commanding bank, and makes a handsome appearance from above Portsmouth,
to travellers descending the river. It is eleven years old, but it has
not thriven, and the erection of the town of Portsmouth so near it, has
caused it to decline rapidly. It has still however the post-office for
both towns.

There is a remarkable naked, round topped, rocky mountain, on the
Virginia side, opposite to Portsmouth, which forms a variety to the
forest covered hills, which every where meet the eye of the traveller
through this western region.

We observed here, vast numbers of beautiful large, green paroquets,
which our landlord, squire Brown, informed us abound all over the
country. They keep in flocks, and when they alight on a tree, they are
not distinguishable from the foliage, from their colour.[108]


FOOTNOTES:

[105] Samuel Hunt of New Hampshire was born in 1765, and after studying
law travelled in Europe for three years. Upon his return he was twice
sent to Congress from his native state (1802-05), and declined the
third election in order to convey a colony to the Ohio, where he had
negotiated a purchase in the French Grant from the owner, Gervais. He
engaged as a housekeeper, Miss Cynthia Riggs; and came out on horseback
in the fall of 1806. Cuming’s fears were realized, for Hunt died a
few days after he had passed. The New Hampshire colony emigrated
later (1810), however, under the lead of Asa Boynton, and the name of
Burrsburgh was changed to that of Haverhill.--ED.

[106] Jean Gabriel Gervais conducted the movement which led to the
congressional grant for the French of Gallipolis, and received four
thousand acres for services therein. He lived at Gallipolis until the
final sale of his lands. The income resulting from the investment of
the funds, permitted his return (1817) to pass the evening of his life
in his native Paris.--ED.

[107] General Nathaniel Massie, born in Virginia in 1763, served in
the Revolution while a youth, and at its close emigrated to Kentucky.
There he was soon employed in the movement which led to the Virginia
Military Reserve settlement in Ohio. When Virginia ceded her Northwest
claims to Congress (1784) she retained a large tract between the Scioto
and Miami rivers for bounty lands for her soldiers. Massie began the
survey thereof in 1788, and two years later led out the first colony
on the site of Manchester, Ohio. At the close of the Indian wars
Chillicothe was platted (1796), and became the first capital of the
state of Ohio. Massie was an influential leader in early Ohio politics;
he headed the opposition to General St. Clair, and persuaded Jefferson
to remove him (1803). A strong Democrat in politics, his presence at
the constitutional convention aided in giving a democratic cast to the
new state constitution. For many years he acted as major-general of
the Ohio militia, and one of his last public services was to reinforce
Harrison at Fort Meigs. His death occurred in 1813.--ED.

[108] Nearly all the early travellers speak of finding paroquets in
the Ohio Valley, but they are now only to be found much south of this
latitude.--ED.




{142} CHAPTER XXII

 The Scioto--Alexandria--Colgin’s fine family--Very cold
    weather--Remarks on the sudden changes of weather--Salt lick--Salt
    springs and works.


The Scioto is about two hundred and fifty yards wide at its mouth, and
is navigable for large flats and keel boats to Chilicothe, the capital
of the state, forty-seven miles by land, but between sixty and seventy
following the meanders of the river; and about a hundred miles further
for batteaux, from whence is a portage of only four miles to Sandusky
river which falls into Lake Erie--and near the banks of which the
Five Nations have established their principal settlements, called the
Sandusky towns. Its general course is about S. S. W. and except during
the spring floods, it has a gentle current, and an easy navigation.
About thirty miles from its mouth, and eight or ten from its left bank,
are some salt springs, which make salt enough for the consumption of
the country for forty or fifty miles round.[109]

At three o’clock we left Portsmouth, from whence to Alexandria is W. S.
W. about a mile and a quarter. We landed there and walked through the
town, which contains only ten large houses besides barns and other out
buildings--but, though inhabited, they are neglected and out of repair,
and every thing bears the appearance of poverty and decay. From hence
to Chilicothe the distance by the road is forty-seven miles.

We delayed about an hour, and then proceeding down the river, we
observed the hills on the left to be of conical forms, and the river
bottoms very narrow. About four miles below Alexandria we observed
rather a tasty cottage and improvement on the right. We inquired of a
gentlemanly looking elderly man on the bank, “who resided there?” but
{143} he uncourteously not deigning a reply, we were informed at the
next settlement that it was a Major Bellisle.[110]

Passing Turkey creek on the right, and Conoconecq creek on the left,
seven miles more brought us opposite to a very handsome insulated
mountain, five hundred feet high, on the right, and passing Willow
(small) island and bar on the same hand, we landed nearly opposite to
buy milk at a decent looking cabin and small farm. It was owned by
one Colgin, an Irishman, who has been several years in Kentucky, but
only two in his present residence. He has only eight acres cleared,
on which he maintains himself, his wife, and seven children, who are
all comfortably and even becomingly drest. There was an air of natural
civility, and even kindness, in the manner of this family, which I had
not observed before on the banks of the Ohio. The children, who were
all born in Kentucky, were uncommonly handsome.

Three miles further we passed on the right, Twin creeks, about a
hundred yards apart, a mile beyond which we anchored under the Ohio
shore at half past nine, and passed under our awning as cold a night
as I have experienced in the more northern climates in November. The
sudden and frequent changes from excessive heat to excessive cold
throughout the United States, are amongst the greatest inconveniences
to which the inhabitants are exposed, and are very trying to delicate
constitutions, being the cause of pulmonary complaints, which are very
common, particularly among the females.

On the clear, cold morning, of the twenty-ninth of July, we hauled up
our anchor, and dropping down the current three miles, we landed at
Salt Lick landing, at six o’clock.

We walked about a mile to the salt springs. The old original one,
formerly used by the Indians, and another lately opened, are on the
west side of Salt Lick {144} creek and are owned by a family of the
name of Beal. Three others on the east side of the creek, opened
within three years, belong to a Mr. Greenup. The salt is made in
three furnaces at Beal’s springs, and in four at Greenup’s. Each
furnace contains fifty cast iron pans, of about twenty gallons each,
and makes, on Greenup’s side, one hundred bushels of salt per week,
while on Beal’s side they make only sixty bushels per week, in each
furnace. The price of salt at the works is two dollars per bushel. A
furnace requires eight men to do its work, whose wages are from twenty
to twenty-five dollars per month each. The water in the old spring is
near the surface, but the new wells are sunk to the depth of fifty-five
feet. The water is wound up by hand by a windlass, in buckets, and
emptied into wooden troughs, which lead to the furnaces. The old spring
has two pumps in it. Much labour might be saved by machinery wrought
either by horses, or by the water of the neighbouring creek; but in so
new a country one must not expect to find the arts in perfection.

The proprietors of each furnace pay a yearly rent of from three to five
hundred bushels of salt to the proprietors of the soil.

The valley in which the springs are is small, and surrounded by broken
and rather barren hills, but producing wood enough to supply the
furnaces with fuel constantly, if properly managed.

There is a wagon road of seventy miles from hence to Lexington, through
a country settled the whole way. The road passes the upper Blue Licks,
where are also salt springs and furnaces, not nearly however so
productive as these. The Salt Lick springs, which are the strongest in
this western country, are not half so strongly impregnated with salt,
as the water of the ocean, yielding only about one pound of salt, from
sixty pounds of water.

{145} What a subject of admiration does it not afford to the moralizing
philosopher, that such a provision should be made by all bountiful
nature, or rather by nature’s God, for supplying both the intellectual
and brute creation, with an article so necessary to both, in the heart
of an immense continent, so remote from any ocean.

There are three or four houses at the landing, which was intended as
the scite of the county town, but the seat of the courts has been
established four miles lower down the Ohio.[111]

We breakfasted on good coffee, biscuit, meat and cheese, at the house
of one M’Bride, an Irishman, who has a fine family of ten children all
living.


FOOTNOTES:

[109] For the early history of the Scioto, see Croghan’s _Journals_,
vol. i of this series, p. 134, note 102.--ED.

[110] Major John Belli was a cosmopolitan, his father being French, his
mother Dutch, and he himself born (1760) and educated in England. He
inherited estates in Holland, but having become imbued with republican
principles, emigrated to America, bearing letters of recommendation
from John Jay. Belli landed at Alexandria, Virginia, in 1783 and
remained there nine years, forming a personal acquaintance with
Washington, Knox, and other public men. Sent west on public business
in 1791, he remained as deputy-quartermaster of the army until after
Wayne’s victory, when he purchased land at the mouth of Turkey Creek,
and built thereon the house of which Cuming speaks. It was a large
two story frame building, unusually good for the region, and was
named “Belvidere.” Major Belli married a cousin of General Harrison,
and although the founder of Alexandria at the mouth of the Scioto,
preferred his home at Turkey Creek, where he died in 1809.--ED.

[111] Vanceburgh, at the mouth of Salt Lick Creek, is now the
county-seat for Lewis County; but Clarksburgh, a village below, was
originally so chosen.--ED.




CHAPTER XXIII

 Graham’s station--Brush Creek--A family
    travelling on a visit--Fine scenery--Massey’s
    island--Manchester--Brookes’s--Madison--Maysville--Failure of three
    towns, and an intended glass house.


At eight o’clock we proceeded to drop down the river. The hills on each
side still continued broken, separate, and pointed, and the bottoms
narrow. The appearance of the timber since we passed Little Sandy,
indicated the soil to be not so rich as above that river, it being of a
much smaller growth.

About eight miles from Salt Lick we passed on the left a fine
settlement of several large farms and good farm houses, called
Graham’s station on Kennedy’s bottom, and three miles further on the
right the new town of Adamsville, with one very good house and three
or four small ones, finely situated at {146} the mouth of Brush creek,
which is a charming little river about thirty-five yards wide.

From hence we observed several good farm houses in fine situations, on
the left, and an extensive bottom, well settled, on the right, the Ohio
being about half a mile wide between.

At Sycamore creek, which is very small, on the left, two miles below
Brush creek, is a good house, finely situated, with a ferry for the
Ohio. Here we spoke a man of the name of May, who with his wife
and child, and an aged mother, had been seven weeks descending the
Mississippi and ascending the Ohio in a skiff; bound from St. Louis in
upper Louisiana, to Pittsburgh, a distance of thirteen hundred miles,
on a visit to two of his brothers residing there. They had just landed
to cook their dinner. I mention this merely to give some idea how
little the inhabitants of this country think of journies which would
seem impracticable to the stationary residents of Europe.

Since passing Brush creek, I observed the river hills to be lower,
their tops flatter, and the country less broken: the river too had
widened to the breadth of three quarters of a mile, and Pennaway’s
handsome brick house on a fine farm, separated by Donaldson’s creek
from the widow Smith’s farm house, the latter decorated with a balcony
and piazza, and beautifully situated, with the wooded hills rising
gradually behind, formed altogether imagery worthy a good landscape
painter. From hence there is also a charming view down the river,
through a vista formed by Massey’s island and the high right bank on
which the town of Manchester is placed.

Four miles and a half below Sycamore creek, instead of going through
the vista which was open to the eye, we kept over to the left shore
in the main channel, to the left of a small island, which is joined
at low water by a semicircular sand bar to Massey’s {147} island, a
fine harbour being formed by the bar between the islands except in
inundations of the river.

Massey’s island is about two miles long, but it is very narrow. It
belongs to two owners, it is very fertile and partly cultivated.

At four o’clock we passed the lower end of Massey’s island, rowed over
to the right shore, and landed at Manchester, a quarter of a mile lower
down.

This town has been settled twelve years, but contains only ten dwelling
houses, most delightfully situated on a high plain, commanding charming
prospects of the river both above and below. It is a post town, and is
only three miles distant from the great state road through the state of
Ohio to Lexington in Kentucky; but it is a poor place, and not likely
to improve, as its vicinity to Maysville, which is only twelve miles
lower where the road crosses the river, prevents its being frequented
by travellers.

We delayed but a few minutes at Manchester, and then proceeding, we
passed Isaac creek with a wooden bridge over it, on the right, a mile
below. A mile lower we saw on the left a very handsome farm house, an
orchard and a fine farm; opposite to which on the right, the river
hills approach close to the bank.

Two miles further we passed Crooked creek on the left, the hills now
approaching on that side, and receding on the right, leaving a fine
extensive bottom between them and the river.

Cabin creek on the left is a mile and a half below Crooked creek, and
has a good farm and handsome farm house at its mouth.

Three miles lower, on the left, is William Brookes’s creek, below which
is a floating mill, and Brookes’s good house and fine farm on a very
pleasant point, where a bottom commences, which extends to Limestone,
while the same ridge of hills which we passed below Isaac creek, after
semicircularly {148} bounding a deep, long and well settled bottom,
again approach the right bank of the Ohio opposite Brookes’s.

It may be proper to remark here, that in general, when the river hills
approach the river on one side, they recede on the other, so that hills
on one side are opposite to bottoms on the other.

From just below Brookes’s, we had a fine view down a reach, about three
miles, with Limestone or Maysville in sight at the end of it, and
passing the straggling but pleasant village of Madison on the left,
Limestone creek, and two gun boats at anchor, we landed there a little
before eight o’clock.

We got a good supper and beds at Mr. S. January’s, who keeps an
excellent house, and is a polite, well informed and attentive landlord.

Next morning Thursday the 30th July, we walked, accompanied by our host
to the scite of a formerly intended glass house, on the bank about
three quarters of a mile above the town; which failed of being erected
in consequence of the glass blowers who were engaged not having arrived
to perform their contract.

During our walk, we were shewn the scites of no less than three
projected towns, on the different properties of Messrs. Martin,
Brookes, and Coburn, at any of which, the situations were better than
at Maysville, both in point of room for building, and communication
with the interior of the country. They however all failed, in favour
of Maysville;[112] but those attempts to establish towns on their
estates, will serve to give some idea of the ambitious and enterprising
spirit which actuates the landholders in this country.

Maysville is the greatest shipping port on the Ohio, below Pittsburgh,
but it is merely such, not being a place of much business itself, but
only serving as the principal port for the north eastern part of the
state {149} of Kentucky, as Louisville does for the south western. It
has not increased any for several years, and contains only about sixty
houses. It is closely hemmed in by the river hills, over which the most
direct road from Philadelphia through Pittsburgh and Chilicothe leads
to Lexington, and thence through the state of Tennessee to New Orleans.

Several vessels of all sizes from four hundred tons downwards, have
been built here, but as none are now going forward, I presume the
builders did not find that business answerable to their expectations.
It is a post town, the mails from both east and west arriving on
Wednesdays and Saturdays. Its situation causing it to be much resorted
by travellers, that gives it an appearance of liveliness and bustle,
which might induce a stranger to think it a place of more consequence
in itself than it really is.

After breakfasting with our host, I delivered a letter of introduction
to Mr. George Gallagher, one of the principal merchants, who received
me very politely; then leaving our boat with our landlord to be
disposed of, we set out on foot for Lexington, at half past eleven
o’clock.


FOOTNOTES:

[112] The town on the property of Thomas Brooks--one of the early
pioneers who came to Kentucky before 1776--was called “Rittersville;”
that of John Coburn was first designated as “Madison,” but later as
“Liberty.”

Judge John Coburn was a Philadelphian who came to Kentucky (1784) on
the advice of Luther Martin, living at Lexington until 1794, when he
removed to Mason County, and was made judge of its courts. A prominent
Democrat, he declined the position of judge in the territory of
Michigan; but later accepted the same for that of Orleans, holding
court at St. Louis. Coburn was an ardent friend of Daniel Boone, and
the act appropriating land for the latter in his old age was passed at
his instance. He also served as commissioner (1796) to run the boundary
between Virginia and Kentucky; and after holding many offices of trust,
died in 1823.--ED.




CHAPTER XXIV

 Delightful country--Beautiful fields of maize--Washington--A
    philosophical butcher--An architectural wagonner--May’s-lick--Barren
    hills--Licking river--Dangerous ford--Blue licks--Good inn--Salt
    furnaces.


Our road led over a high hill but of easy ascent for about half a mile,
with small cultivated spots here and there. When at the summit of the
river hills, we entered on a fine country, consisting of hill {150}
and dale, with very extensive farms, and some of the largest fields of
Indian corn I had ever seen. Perhaps no plantation has a more beautiful
appearance than a field of maize in that stage of vegetation in which
we now saw it. It was in tassel and silk according to the country
terms. The first of these is the flower or blossom, which grows on the
top of the plant which is from eight to twelve feet high. It is of a
light brown colour and resembles the feather of a quill stripped down
and twisted round the stem, and nods and trembles with the slightest
air of wind. The latter consists of a few silky and silvery threads,
which issue from the end of each ear, from two to three of which grow
at the height of about two thirds of the stalk. The leaves which grow
luxuriantly from the stalk to from a foot to two feet long, are of a
deep and rich green, and have their ends generally bent down by their
own weight. It is impossible to convey an idea on paper of the beauty
of a field of fifty or sixty acres in this state. A field of sugar
canes in the West Indies, when nearly ripe, comes the nearest to it
in beauty and appearance of any other species of cultivation I am
acquainted with. It might be deemed impertinent to occupy the time of
the American reader, in describing the appearance of a field, to the
sight of which he is so accustomed, but should these sheets ever find
their way to Europe, it may afford information to those who may never
have an opportunity of knowing more of the culture of so useful, so
noble and so beautiful a plant.[113]

{151} About half a mile further, we passed on the right the handsome
house, spacious square barn, fine farm and improvements of major John
Brown, an Irishman, the whole together indicating taste and opulence.

A mile and a half beyond this on the left, is a large and remarkably
well built brick house of a Mr. Blanchard, well situated, but left
rather naked of wood.

The country on every side appears to be better improved than I have
observed it in any part of America, and wonderfully abundant in grain,
chiefly Indian corn.

Four miles from Maysville, we entered the flourishing town of
Washington, which is laid out on a roomy and liberal plan, in three
parallel streets, containing only as yet ninety-six houses, mostly
large and good ones. There is here a good stone court-house with a
small belfry, a church of brick for a society of Scotch Presbyterians,
and another of wood for one of Anabaptists. Washington being the
capital of Braken county, and in the heart of a very rich country, is a
thriving town, and will probably continue to be so, notwithstanding it
is without the advantage of any navigable river nearer than the Ohio at
Maysville.[114]

Mr. Lee a merchant here, to whom I had letters of introduction was
polite and obliging.[115] We got an excellent dinner, at Ebert’s
tavern; after which we hired two horses through Mr. Lee’s interest,
as it is difficult for strangers to procure horses on hire throughout
this country. We engaged one at half a dollar, and the other at three
quarters of a dollar a {152} day; the last from a Mr. Fristoe, a small
man of sixty-eight, married to his second wife of thirty-two years of
age. She is a contrast to her husband in size as well as years, she
being tall and fat, and weighing two hundred and forty pounds. She is
two years younger than his youngest daughter by his first wife. He has
grand and great grandchildren born in Kentucky. He is a Virginian,
and was once a man of large property, when he resided on the banks of
one of the rivers which fall into the Chesapeak, where he loaded the
ship in which captain, afterwards consul O’Brien was captured by the
Algerines. By unfortunate land jobbing in Kentucky, he has lost his
property, and is now a butcher in Washington.

He is truly a philosopher, contrasting his former with his present
situation, with much good humour and pleasantry.

At three o’clock, we left Washington on horseback, and travelled on a
good road through a well improved country, four miles to the north fork
of Licking river, which we crossed by a wooden bridge supported by
four piers of hammered limestone, with a transverse sleeper of timber
on each which supports the sill. The bridge is seventy-seven yards
long, and only wants abutments to be very complete. A wagonner had
stopped his wagon on it to measure its proportions. He told me that
he had contracted to build a similar bridge over the south fork of
Licking at Cynthiana, forty miles from hence, which is larger than the
north fork. It may seem strange that a wagonner should be employed as
a builder, but it is common throughout the United States, particularly
at a distance from the sea coast, for one man to have learned and
wrought at two, and even sometimes three or four different mechanical
professions, at different periods of his life.

{153} The country still continued fine, but not quite so well improved,
to Lee’s creek mill, three miles and a half beyond the north fork of
Licking. The mill was now stopped for want of water in the creek,
which is an inconvenience to which the whole of the western country is
liable, the brooks and small rivers generally failing during the summer.

Half a mile further we came to a small post town, called May’s-lick,
containing only eight or ten houses, irregularly scattered on the side
of a hill. We here stopped to feed our horses, and then proceeded four
miles through a good natural, but indifferently improved country to
Clark’s excellent mill on Johnston’s fork of Licking, which is a fine
mill stream, and falls into Licking river, several miles lower down.
The road on each side the fork is very bad, the hills being extremely
steep.

After passing Clark’s mill, we found the country gradually worse
cultivated, less inhabited, and at last a continuation of barren hills,
bearing very little besides wild pennyroyal, with which the air is
strongly perfumed, and a few stunted shrubs and trees, there being
nothing to promote vegetation, but gravel and loose stones of every
variety--marble, limestone, flint, freestone, and granate, among which
the limestone is the most predominant. The road also was very bad for
the three or four miles next to the Blue salt licks on Licking river,
which is eight miles from Clark’s mill.

On the road we met a Mr. Ball and another man, both armed, going in
search of four negro slaves, who had ran away from him, and two of his
neighbours near Boonsborough,[116] seven had ran away, but three had
been apprehended that morning.

We saw from the eminences on the road, the smoke of the salt furnaces,
when three miles distant from them.

{154} In fording the Licking, which is a fine river about eighty yards
wide, we kept rather too high, and got into such deep water that mine
had to swim some yards, while A----, who was behind me took advantage
of my mistake, and kept lower down, so that his horse was only up to
the saddle skirts.

Some negro salt labourers on the bank, mischievously beckoned and
called to us towards them, enjoying our embarrassment, but taking care
to get out of sight when we got firm footing on the same side of the
river with them.

We found Mrs. Williams an obliging hostess, and her sister Miss Howard,
a very agreeable woman; they favoured us with their company at supper,
and were both much better bred, and better informed than most of the
tavern ladies we had seen since we left Pittsburgh.

There were some other ladies and some children in the house from
Washington, who were here for the benefit of drinking the waters of the
salt spring, which are esteemed efficacious in some disorders. They are
frequented by people from different parts of the state, as both a cure
and antidote for every disorder incident to the human frame. I believe
them to be perfectly neutral: They are impregnated with sulphur, and
smell and taste exactly like the bilge water in a ship’s hold, of
course they are very nauseous. They act sometimes as a cathartick,
and sometimes as an emetick, but without causing either griping, or
sickness of the stomach.

There are seven furnaces wrought here, but the water which lies at the
surface is not near so strong as that at the salt lick near the Ohio,
each furnace here making only about twenty-five bushels of salt per
week. The Blue lick salt is much whiter and handsomer than the other,
but it only sells at the same price. Each furnace rents at about three
hundred dollars a year.

{155} These licks were much frequented by buffaloes and deer, the
former of which have been destroyed or terrified from the country. It
is only fourteen or fifteen years since no other except buffaloe or
bear meat was used by the inhabitants of this country.[117]


FOOTNOTES:

[113] An ear of corn, in most parts of Ireland, England, and Scotland,
and other parts of Europe, is deemed a great curiosity, and is
carefully preserved, when it can be procured, for a number of years
by some families as a shew of a singular production of nature, and
is as much admired and as closely examined as would be here the shoe
of a Chinese lady of quality. A young Irish gentleman tells me,
when a boy in Ireland he once carried a _corn cob_ fourteen miles
in his pocket to shew it to his relatives, who viewed it as a great
curiosity from America, and could form no just idea of the manner of
its growing, or of its utility, but concluded it grew like oats or
barley, and like these were cut with sickles or scythes. The cob had
been previously stripped of its grains by as many individuals, each
taking one, as a sight of singular curiosity for their families and
neighbourhood.--CRAMER.

[114] For a sketch of the town of Washington, see F. A. Michaux’s
_Travels_, vol. iii of this series, p. --, note 37. Cuming is mistaken
in making it the seat of Bracken instead of Mason County.--ED.

[115] For biographical sketch of General Henry Lee, see Michaux’s
_Travels_, vol. iii of this series, p. 36, note 25.--ED.

[116] Boonesborough was one of the first settlements of Kentucky, laid
out in 1775 by the pioneer for whom it was named. It was the capital
of the Transylvania Company, and the scene of some of the most noted
events of early Kentucky history, particularly during the siege of
1778. Boonesborough declined in importance after the Indian wars; in
1810 it was a mere hamlet, and since that but the site of a farm. For
further details see the excellent monograph of Ranck, _Boonesborough_
(Filson Club _Publications_, No. 16; Louisville, 1901).--ED.

[117] The Lower Blue Licks, which Cuming here describes, were
discovered in 1773 by a party of surveyors led by John Finley. It was
a well-known spot in early Kentucky annals, and Daniel Boone was here
engaged in making salt when captured by Indians (1778). The most famous
event in its history was the disastrous battle fought here, August 19,
1782, in which the flower of Kentucky frontiersmen lost their lives.
See Young, “Battle of Blue Licks” in Durrett, _Bryant’s Station_
(Filson Club _Publications_, No. 12; Louisville, 1897). The Lower Blue
Licks later became, as Cuming indicates, a favorite watering-place for
the vicinity.--ED.




CHAPTER XXV

 Nicholasville--Assembly of birds--Shafts to salt
    spring--Millersburgh--Capt. Waller--State of the country at first
    settlement--Massacre of the American militia under Col. Todd by
    the Indians--Astonishing plenty of game--Mode of killing the
    buffaloe--Their extirpation--Canes--Paper mill--Johnston’s--North
    branch of Elkhorn--General Russel.


Friday, twenty-first July, we arose early and proceeded on our journey.
At about two miles from Blue Licks we passed a tavern, a double log
gaol and a court-house in a very solitary situation, dignified with
the name of Nicholasville, it being the seat of the county courts of
Nicholas county. In one spot on the road were two crows, two doves,
four red birds, and four partridges, assembled as if in council. They
all took wing at our approach except the partridges, which in this
country are wonderfully abundant, and very tame. They will walk quietly
to the side of the road and look at the passing traveller with innocent
confidence.

There were but one or two houses in the next six miles, which are
through a stony defile between barren hills. The country then becomes
better inhabited and the soil gradually improves to Millersburgh, a
village of about thirty houses, thirteen miles from Blue Licks.[118]
There is on the road an old shaft where an attempt was made to come
at a salt spring {156} without success, but a little further they
succeeded in finding a very strong one, which was rendered useless by
some springs of fresh water flowing into the salt, at such a depth as
to render the turning them away if not impracticable, at least too
expensive.

We breakfasted at Capt. Waller’s tavern, at Millersburgh.[119] Our
host was an obliging and sensible man, and possessed of good general
information relative to this country: he was not destitute of some
particular also. We collected from him, that when he first arrived in
Kentucky, about twenty-three years ago, there was not a house between
Limestone and Lexington, and at the latter place were only a few log
cabins under the protection of a stoccado fort.--That there was not
half a mile of the road between the two places unstained by human
blood.--That in 1782, on the heights above the Blue Lick, 2000 Indians
drew 1500 Americans into an ambush, by partially exposing themselves,
and so tempting the latter to attack them. The American commander, Col.
Todd, and six hundred of his men were killed, and the whole party would
have been destroyed had the remainder not saved themselves by throwing
themselves into the Licking and gaining the opposite bank, to which the
Indians did not chuse to pursue them, satisfied with the slaughter they
had made.[120] He said that buffaloes, bears and deer were so plenty
in the country, even long after it began to be generally settled, and
ceased to be frequented as a hunting ground by the Indians, that little
or no bread was used, but that even the children were fed on game;
the facility of gaining which prevented the progress of agriculture,
until the poor innocent buffaloes were completely extirpated, and the
other wild animals much thinned: And that the principal part of the
cultivation of Kentucky had been within the last fifteen years. He
said the buffaloes had been so numerous, going in herds of several
hundreds together, that {157} about the salt licks and springs they
frequented, they pressed down and destroyed the soil to a depth of
three or four feet, as was conspicuous yet in the neighbourhood of
the Blue Lick, where all the old trees have their roots bare of soil
to that depth.--Those harmless and unsuspecting animals, used to
stand gazing with apparent curiosity at their destroyer, until he
was sometimes within twenty yards of them, when he made it a rule to
select the leader, which was always an old and fat female. When she was
killed, which rarely failed from the great dexterity of the hunter, the
rest of the herd would not desert her, until he had shot as many as he
thought proper. If one of the common herd was the first victim of the
rifle, the rest would immediately fly. The males sometimes exceeded a
thousand pounds weight, but the females were seldom heavier than five
hundred. He said that the whole country was then an entire cane brake,
which sometimes grew to forty feet high, but that the domestick stock
introduced by the settlers have eradicated the cane, except in some
remote and unsettled parts of the state. He described that plant, as
springing up with a tender shoot, like asparagus, which cattle are very
fond of.

Millerstown has been settled about ten years, but it is not thriving,
though it seems well calculated for a manufacturing town, from its
situation on the bank of Hinckson’s fork of the Licking, which is a
good mill stream, and over which there is a wooden bridge.

Several strata of lead ore, parallel to the surface, and from three
inches to a foot in thickness, have been discovered in the town, and
neighbourhood; and about a year ago, a Mr. Elliot, erected a furnace
and made sixteen tons of pure lead, but for want of funds to prosecute
the business to effect, he was obliged to cease exertions, which, with
proper encouragement, might have been a source of very extensive
traffick to {158} this state, independent of the keeping in it a
considerable sum of the circulating medium which is now paid for that
useful metal, with which it is supplied from St. Genevieve in Upper
Louisiana, at a profit of one hundred per cent.[121]

From Millersburgh we travelled about seven miles, over a fine soil,
but not much improved on account of the uncertainty of titles. We then
turned out of the main road into a path through the woods, which we
were informed would shorten our road two miles to Baylor’s mills, where
Mr. A---- had business, but after losing ourselves in a labyrinth of
cross paths, and riding five miles instead of two, we at last found
ourselves at Col. Garret’s fine stone house and extensive farm,[122]
where a young lady from an upper window, gave us directions, by the aid
of which we soon found Mr. Baylor’s.

We had to regret the absence from home of young Mr. and Mrs.
Baylor,[123] as Mr. A. was personally acquainted with them, and we had
promised ourselves a musical feast, from the performance of Mrs. B.
on the piano forte, on which instrument she is said particularly to
excel. They not being at home, we declined the invitation of a younger
Mr. B. to alight, but taking a glass of milk and water on horseback,
we proceeded across Stoner’s fork of the Licking, towards Lexington,
leaving the town of Paris about three miles on the left.[124]

Our ride now was on a charming road finely shaded by woods, with now
and then a good farm, five miles to Johnston’s tavern, where we fed our
horses and got some refreshment. Capt. Johnston is most comfortably
settled on a fine farm, having a son married and settled on an equally
good one, on one side, and a daughter equally well situated on the
other. He and his wife are good looking, middle aged people, {159}
and both in their persons, and in every thing around them, have the
appearance of being possessed of the happy _otium_ of life. He had a
quantity of last year’s produce in his granaries, and his wheat, his
corn and tobacco fields, with a large tract of meadow, were smiling in
luxuriant abundance around him.

The country continued fine, and more cultivated for the next six miles,
hill and dale alternately, but the hills only gentle slopes: we then
ascending a chain of rather higher hills than we had lately crossed,
called Ash ridge, we passed a small meeting-house on the right, and
Mr. Robert Carter Harrison’s large house, fine farm and improvements
on the left, separated by the north branch of Elkhorn river from
Jamison’s mill. We then crossed that river, and soon after, on a fine
elevated situation, we passed general Russel’s house on the right, with
a small lawn in front of it, and two small turrets at the corners of
the lawn next the road. The _tout ensemble_ wanting only the vineyards
to resemble many of the country habitations of Languedoc and Provence.
I have little doubt, but at some future period, that feature will also
be added to it, as in this climate and soil grapes would grow most
luxuriantly; when therefore the population of this country becomes
adequate to the culture of the vine, it will assuredly not be neglected.

Overtaking a gentleman on horseback, who had been overseeing some
mowers in a meadow, he joined company with, and civilly entered into
conversation with us. It was general Russel who had been riding
round his farm. We discussed various topicks respecting the natural
and improved state of the country, and the present state of political
affairs. He had just returned from Richmond in Virginia, where he had
been during the examination of Col. Burr, before the grand jury. He
evinced much good sense, intelligence, candour and liberality in his
opinions, {160} not only with regard to that extraordinary man, who has
caused such a ferment throughout the union, but on the various other
subjects which we conversed on. He obligingly accompanied us about five
miles, as an afternoon’s ride, and at parting, he gave us a friendly
and polite invitation to visit him at his cottage, on our return.[125]

He described the well where he has his spring house, as a great natural
curiosity; there being a grotto under it which terminates in a cavern
in the limestone rock, which has been explored nearly a hundred yards
without finding the termination.


FOOTNOTES:

[118] For sketch of Millersburgh, see F. A. Michaux’s _Travels_, vol.
iii of this series, p. 198, note 38.--ED.

[119] Captain John Waller was one of the party from Virginia who were
associated with Simon Kenton (1775-76) in laying out a station near
Maysville, which later was abandoned because of danger from Indians.
He had been a noted border-fighter and frontiersman during the early
history of Kentucky. In 1792 he represented Bourbon County in the first
legislature.--ED.

[120] The numbers as given here are greatly exaggerated. About sixty
Americans were slain, and the attacking party was not over, at the
most, six hundred.--ED.

[121] The lead vein near Millersburg was but small; it was worked again
to some effect after the War of Secession.--ED.

[122] This was doubtless the residence of General James Garrard, a
Virginian who had emigrated to Kentucky directly after the Revolution,
and was second governor of the state, 1796-1804. He died at his home in
Bourbon County in 1822.--ED.

[123] Daughter of Mr. Henry Weidner, of Pittsburgh.--CRAMER.

[124] For sketch of Paris, see Michaux’s _Travels_, vol. iii of this
series, p. 37, note 29.--ED.

[125] General William Russell was a Virginian by birth, who had lived
in the southwestern part of that state, and from boyhood had been
accustomed to Indian warfare. He participated in the battles of King’s
Mountain and Guilford Court House, and in the expedition against
the Cherokees. After emigrating to Kentucky, he served with Scott,
Wilkinson, and Wayne in their Indian campaigns, showing great military
capacity. Again in 1811, and in the Western battles of the War of
1812-15, the services of General Russell were of much importance. In
politics he was as prominent as in warfare, representing his county
(Fayette) in the Kentucky legislature for thirteen terms, but finally
suffering defeat as a candidate for governor (1824). The following year
he died on his farm, where Cuming had met him.--ED.




CHAPTER XXVI

 Lexington--Excellent tavern--Fine market--Transylvania
    university--Publick buildings--Schools--Manufacturies--Stores and
    state of business--Coffee house--Vauxhall.


The country had insensibly assumed the appearance of an approach to a
city.--The roads very wide and fine, with grazing parks, meadows, and
every spot in sight cultivated.

Soon after parting with the general, we were gratified with a view of
Lexington, about half a mile distant, from an eminence on the road. On
entering the town we were struck with the fine roomy scale on which
every thing appeared to be planned. Spacious streets, and large houses
chiefly of brick, which since the year 1795, have been rapidly taking
the place of the original wooden ones, several of which however yet
remain.

We turned up the main street, which is about eighty feet wide,
compactly built, well paved, and {161} having a footway, twelve feet
wide on each side.--Passing several very handsome brick houses of two
and three stories, numerous stores well filled with merchandize of
every description, and the market place and court-house, we dismounted
at Wilson’s inn, and entered the traveller’s room, which had several
strangers in it. Shortly after, the supper bell ringing, we obeyed the
summons, and were ushered into a room about forty feet long, where, at
the head of a table, laid out with neatness, plenty and variety, sat
our well dressed hostess, who did the honours of it with much ease and
propriety.

We retired early, and next morning, before breakfast, went to the
market, which is held every Wednesday and Saturday. We were surprised
at the number of horses belonging to the neighbouring farmers, which
were fastened around on the outside, and on entering the market place
we were equally astonished at the profusion and variety of most of the
necessaries and many of the luxuries of life. There was not however
such a display of flesh meat as is seen in Pittsburgh, which might be
owing to the warmth of the climate at that season. Prices were nearly
similar to those at Pittsburgh: beef four cents per pound, bacon eight,
butter twelve and a half; lamb twenty-five cents a quarter, corn
meal forty-two cents per bushel, and every thing else in proportion.
Vegetables were in great abundance and very cheap, and were sold mostly
by negro men and women; indeed that race were the most predominant both
as to sellers and buyers.

Our beds had been very good, and our breakfast and dinner to-day, were
correspondent to our supper last night--displaying a variety neatly and
handsomely served up, with excellent attendance.

I employed the forenoon in running over and viewing the town. It
contains three hundred and sixty-six dwelling houses, besides barns,
stables and {162} other out offices. The streets cross each other at
right angles, and are from fifty to eighty feet wide. A rivulet which
turns some mills below the town, runs through the middle of Water
street, but it is covered by an arch, and levelled over it the length
of the street. It falls into the Elkhorn a few miles to the N. W.

There are societies of Presbyterians, Seceders, Episcopalians,
Anabaptists and Roman Catholicks, each of which has a church, no way
remarkable, except the Episcopalian, which is very neat and convenient.
There is also a society of Methodists, which has not yet any regular
house of worship. The court-house now finishing, is a good, plain,
brick building, of three stories, with a cupola, rising from the middle
of the square roof, containing a bell and a town clock. The cupola
is supported by four large brick columns in the centre of the house,
rising from the foundation, through the hall of justice, and in my
opinion adding nothing to its beauty or convenience. The whole building
when finished, will cost about fifteen thousand dollars. The masonick
hall, is a neat brick building, as is also the bank, where going for
change for a Philadelphia bank note, I received in specie one per cent.
advance, which they allow on the notes of the Atlantick cities for the
convenience of remitting. There is a publick library and a university,
called Transylvania, which is incorporated and is under the government
of twenty-one trustees and the direction of a president, the Rev. James
Blythe, who is also professor of natural philosophy, mathematicks,
geography and English grammar. There are four professors besides: the
Rev. Robert H. Bishop, professor of moral philosophy, belles lettres,
logick and history; Mr. Ebenezer Sharpe, professor of the languages;
Doctor James Fishback, professor of medicine, &c. and Henry Clay, Esq.
professor of law. The funds of the university arise from the price of
tuition, (which {163} is lower than in any other seminary of learning
in the United States) and from eight thousand acres of first rate land,
granted to it by the state of Virginia; five thousand of which are in
the neighbourhood of Lexington, and three thousand near Louisville at
the falls of Ohio. The legislature of Kentucky have also granted to it
six thousand acres of valuable land, south of Green river. Its yearly
income from the lands, now amounts to about two thousand dollars, which
will probably be soon much increased.[126]

There are no fewer than three creditable boarding schools for female
education, in which there are at present above a hundred pupils. An
extract from Mrs. Beck’s card, will convey some idea of the progress of
polite education in this country.

“Boarders instructed in the following branches, at the rate of
two hundred dollars per annum, viz. Reading, spelling, writing,
arithmetick, grammar, epistolary correspondence, elocution and
rhetorick; geography, with the use of maps, globes, and the armillary
sphere; astronomy, with the advantage of an orrery; ancient and modern
history; chronology, mythology, and natural history; natural and moral
philosophy; musick, vocal and instrumental; drawing, painting, and
embroidery of all kinds; artificial flowers, and any other fashionable
fancy-work; plain sewing, marking, netting, &c.”

The card designates a regular course of education, as it proceeds
through the successional branches, all of which cannot be studied by
any individual at the same time.

Mrs. Beck is an English lady, and is in high reputation as an
instructress. She was now absent, having taken advantage of a vacation,
to visit the Olympian Springs, about fifty miles from Lexington, much
resorted, on account of their salubrious effects.

There is no regular academy for males, but there are several day
schools.

{164} The number of inhabitants in Lexington, in 1806, was 1655 free
white inhabitants, and 1165 negro slaves, in all 2820. The whole number
may now be safely estimated at 3000.

There are three nail manufacturies, which make about sixty tons of
nails per annum; and there are ten blacksmith’s shops, which find
constant employment for a considerable number of hands.

There are two copper and tin manufacturies, one of which manufactures
ware to the amount of ten thousand dollars yearly; the other is on a
smaller scale.

There are four jewellers and silversmiths, whose business is very
profitable.

Seven saddler’s shops employ thirty hands, the proceeds of whose labour
is annually from twenty-five to thirty thousand dollars.

There are four cabinet-maker’s shops, where household furniture is
manufactured in as handsome a style as in any part of America, and
where the high finish which is given to the native walnut and cherry
timber, precludes the regret that mahogany is not to be had but at an
immense expense.

Three tan yards and five currying shops, manufacture about thirty
thousand dollars worth of leather every year.

There is one excellent umbrella manufactury, one brush, one reed, four
chair, and two tobacco manufacturies which make chewing tobacco, snuff
and cigars. Three blue-dyers. Five hatters, who employ upwards of fifty
hands, and manufacture about thirty thousand dollars worth of fur and
wool hats annually. Ten tailors, who employ forty-seven journeymen
and apprentices. Fifteen shoe and boot makers, who employ about sixty
hands, and manufacture to the amount of about thirty thousand dollars
yearly; and two stocking weavers.

Two brew-houses make as good beer as can be got in the United States.
A carding machine for {165} wool, is a great convenience to the
manufacturers of that article. There is one manufacturer of baling
cloth for cotton wool, who employs thirty-eight hands, and makes
thirty-six thousand yards annually; and two cotton spinning machines,
worked by horses, yield a handsome profit to the proprietors. An oil
mill, worked by horses, makes fifteen hundred gallons of oil per year.
Seven distilleries make near seven thousand gallons of spirits yearly.
Four rope-walks employ about sixty hands, and make about three hundred
tons of cordage annually, the tar for which is made on the banks of
Sandy river, and is bought in Lexington at from eighteen to twenty-five
cents per gallon. There are two apothecaries’ shops, and five regular
physicians. Twenty-two stores retail upwards of three hundred thousand
dollars worth of imported, foreign merchandize annually; and there is
one book and stationary store on a very large scale, and two printing
offices, where gazettes are printed weekly.[127]

In the neighbourhood are six powder mills, that make about twenty
thousand pounds of powder yearly.

There are seven brick yards which employ sixty hands, and make
annually two million five hundred thousand bricks; and there are fifty
bricklayers, and as many attendants, who have built between thirty and
forty good brick houses each of the last three years. The Presbyterian
society is now finishing a church which will cost eight thousand
dollars.

Manufactures are progressing in several parts of the state.

In Madison county there has lately been established a manufactury on
a large scale for spinning hemp and flax. It is wrought by water, and
is calculated to keep in motion twelve hundred spindles, each of which
will spin per day, half a pound of thread of fineness to make from six
to ten hundred linen, or {166} four pounds per spindle suitable for
cotton baling. One hundred and sixty spindles are now at work, which
have spun a quantity of thread of superiour quality.

Having been informed that Mr. Prentice, from New England, who is
keeper of the county gaol, had collected much local information
respecting Lexington, with an intention of publishing an account of its
settlement, progress and present state, I called on him, and he very
politely communicated to me every thing I interrogated him on: as his
book however will be given to the publick on some future day, I will
not anticipate it; but will merely mention one circumstance as a proof
how much luxury has progressed here. Last year there were in Lexington
thirty-nine two wheel carriages, such as gigs and one horse chaises,
valued at 5764 dollars, and twenty-one four wheel ones, coaches,
chariots, &c. valued at 8900 dollars; since when four elegant ones
have been added to the number. This may convey some idea of the taste
for shew and expense which pervades this country. There are now here,
fifteen hundred good and valuable horses, and seven hundred milk cows.

The police of Lexington seems to be well regulated: as one proof of
which there is an established nightly watch.

The copper coinage of the United States is of no use in Kentucky--the
smallest circulating coin being a silver sixteenth of a dollar.

There are four billiard tables in Lexington, and cards are a good deal
played at taverns, where it is more customary to meet for that purpose
than at private houses.

There is a coffee house here, where is a reading room for the benefit
of subscribers and strangers, in which are forty-two files of different
newspapers from various parts of the United States. It is supported
{167} by subscribers, who pay six dollars each annually, and of which
there are now sixty. In the same house is a billiard table, and chess
and back-gammon tables, and the guests may be accommodated with wine,
porter, beer, spirituous liquors, cordials and confectionary. It is
kept by a Mr. Terasse, formerly of the island of St. Bartholomew. He
had been unfortunate in mercantile business in the West Indies, and
coming to this country, and failing in the recovery of some property
he had shipped to New York, he had no other resource left to gain a
provision for his family, but the teaching of the French language
and dancing, in Lexington. The trustees of Transylvania college (or
university, as the Lexington people proudly call it) employed him in
the former, but had it not been for the latter, he might have starved.
And here it may not be impertinent to remark, that in most parts of
the United States, teachers of dancing, meet with more encouragement
than professors of any species of literary science.--Disgusted at
length with the little encouragement he received, he bethought himself
of his present business, in which he has become useful to the town
and seems to be reaping a plentiful harvest from his ingenuity. He
has opened a little publick garden behind his house, which he calls
Vauxhall. It has a most luxuriant grape arbour, and two or three summer
houses, formed also of grape vines, all of which are illuminated with
variegated lamps, every Wednesday evening, when the musick of two or
three decent performers sometimes excites parties to dance on a small
boarded platform in the middle of the arbour. It is becoming a place of
fashionable resort.


FOOTNOTES:

[126] For the early history of Transylvania University, one of the
oldest and most celebrated educational institutions in the West, as
well as for sketches of its early professors, see Peter, _Transylvania
University_ (Filson Club _Publications_, No. 11; Louisville, 1896).--ED.

[127] For a sketch of Lexington and its first two newspapers, see
Michaux’s _Travels_, vol. iii of this series, p. 37, note 28, and F. A.
Michaux’s _Travels_, p. 100, note 40.--ED.




{168} CHAPTER XXVII

 Road to Frankfort--Leesburgh--Mulatto innkeeper--Interchange of
    musical entertainment--Frankfort--Breakfast under air fans--Sand fit
    for glass--Marble--Publick buildings--Eccentrick character of the
    keeper of the penitentiary--Return--Coles’s bad inn--Abuses in the
    post-office department.


We left Lexington after dinner, and taking the left hand road of two
equally used to Frankfort, we travelled twelve miles through a very
rich, but not a generally settled country.

After crossing the Town branch, Wolfe’s fork, Steele’s run, and
the South branch of Elkhorn river, to which the three former are
auxiliaries, and on all of which are several mills, we arrived at a
hamlet of three or four houses called Leesburgh, twelve miles from
Lexington.[128] One of the houses had been the seat of the late Col.
Lee, and is still owned by his widow, who rents it to a mulatto man
named Daly, who has converted it into an excellent inn. With the
house, Daly occupies as much cultivated land as nearly supplies his
well frequented stables with hay, corn and oats. There is also a good
kitchen garden in which are vast quantities of culinary sweet herbs,
besides useful vegetables, and he has good stabling and other out
offices--for all which he pays only forty pounds Virginia currency,
or one hundred and thirty-six dollars and two thirds, per annum. We
experienced the benefit of his spacious icehouse, in the fine butter
we had at supper, where every thing was good, particularly the coffee,
which was almost _a la Française_. Daly having a good violin, on which
he plays by ear with some taste, he entertained us with musick while we
supped, in return for which, we played for him afterwards some duets,
by the aid {169} of another violin, borrowed of young Mr. Lee, who
resides in the neighbourhood with his mother.

My good bed did not lull me to repose, partly from the strength of
our host’s coffee, and partly from a stomachick affection through
indigestion.

After a sleepless night, the freshness of the morning air revived me,
and we proceeded towards Frankfort, amusing ourselves by the way with
talking over the vanity and egotism of Mr. Daly, who had entertained
us with many little anecdotes, connected with some of the first and
most celebrated characters in the United States, in which he was always
a principal actor. His vanity however had met with a sad check, soon
after our alighting at his house, from the abuse of a female negro
slave from a neighbouring plantation, who he drove away with a cowskin,
and she in return lavished on him the most opprobrious epithets, among
which he seemed to be most hurt by her calling him “an Indian looking
and a black son of a b--.”

A fine road, through a more level country than we had came through
last evening, brought us in two hours, eleven miles, to the hill above
Frankfort, which from thence was seen to advantage, with Kentucky
river flowing past it, through a deep and narrow valley, confined by
steep and rather stony hills, which afford a variety, after the fine
plains, luxuriant forests and rich farms, within twenty miles in every
direction of Lexington.

We descended the hill, into the capital of Kentucky, and stopped at
Weiseger’s, the sign of the Golden Eagle, where we sat down to a
sumptuous breakfast, with two green silk air fans kept in motion over
our heads, by a little negro girl with a string from the ceiling, in a
room seventy-two feet long.[129]

After breakfast I accompanied Mr. A---- to examine a shallow stratum
of sand, on the bank of the river, near a mineral spring about half a
mile below {170} the town, and he got a negro who was fishing, to wade
to an island opposite, and bring some from thence, which had probably
accumulated there by floods.--He pronounced both kinds proper for the
manufacture of glass, which was what he had in view, but it did [not]
seem as if a sufficient quantity could be procured for an extensive
manufactury.

We then returned to town, walked through it, and entered the state
house, from the cupola of which we could distinctly count every house,
the number of which was exactly ninety, most of them well built with
brick, and some with rough but good marble of a dusky cream colour,
veined with both blue and red, and capable of a good polish, which
is abundant in the neighbourhood. The old wooden houses are rapidly
disappearing to give place to brick, since about two years ago. Until
that time, attempts had been made at every annual sitting of the
legislature, to remove the seat of government elsewhere, ever since
the year 1793, the first after the separation of this government from
the state of Virginia. These attempts having failed, and there having
been no renewals of them in the last two sessions of the legislature,
the proprietors, under a security of Frankfort being established as the
permanent capital of the state, have become spirited in improvement,
and the buildings erected since are on a scale and of materials worthy
of a capital.

The publick buildings here, are a state-house, a court-house, a gaol, a
market-house, the state penitentiary, and a government house occupied
by Mr. Greenup, who now holds that office.

The state-house of rough marble, is about eighty-six feet front, by
fifty-four deep. It is an oblong square with a square roof, and a
cupola containing a bell rising from the centre. The house is plain,
but roomy and commodious. On the first floor are the treasurer’s,
register’s, auditor’s, and printing offices. {171} On the second, the
rooms for the representatives of the state, and the federal court of
appeals, and on the third are the senate chamber, the general court and
a school room.[130]

The court-house is a plain brick building near the state-house.--A
piazza of five arches opens on the hall for the county courts.--The
clerk’s offices are on the same floor.--The jury rooms are on the
second floor, and on the third is a mason’s lodge.

There are four publick inns, which in point of size, accommodation
and attendance, are not surpassed in the United States, and there are
several large houses, where people under the necessity of attending
the courts, or detained for any time in Frankfort, can be accommodated
with private lodgings. The erection of a permanent wooden bridge over
the Kentucky has been lately commenced, which will be about one hundred
and forty yards long from bank to bank, the surface of which is about
fifty feet above low water mark. The present bridge of boats is about
sixty-five yards between the abutments, and the river now at low water
is eighty-seven yards wide. Three brigs have been built above the
bridge, and sent down the Kentucky, the Ohio, and the Mississippi, but
the Kentucky is not navigable during the low water of summer and fall.
Coals are brought down it nearly three hundred miles and delivered in
Frankfort at sixpence per bushel, but wood being yet tolerably plenty,
they are used only in the penitentiary and by the blacksmiths.

There are several curious strata of marble, rising from the margin of
the river, like steps of stairs, towards the top of the bank on the
town side. The marble is covered by a stratum of blue limestone, which
has {172} over it a superstratum of reddish clay and gravel mixed.

After dinner we visited the penitentiary accompanied by our landlord
and Mr. William Hunter, a respectable printer and bookseller, and a
genteel man, to whom I had brought a letter of introduction.[131] In
our way we passed the government house, which is a good, plain, two
story, brick building, and near it we met governour Greenup, who
saluted us with much familiarity. He is a plain, respectable looking
elderly man, much esteemed throughout the state.[132]

The penitentiary is contained within a square area of an acre,
consequently each side is two hundred and eight feet long. The work
shops and store houses occupy the front and the other three sides are
enclosed by a stone wall sixteen feet high, surmounted by a sort of
entablature of brick about three feet high, rounded on the top and
projecting about a foot from the wall on each side to prevent any
attempts of the convicts to scale the wall. There are now twenty-four
miserable wretches confined here for various limitations of time, in
proportion to the enormity of their crimes, but none exceeding ten
years, the longest period limited by law. The cells of the criminals
are in a two story building with a gallery on the inside of the area,
extending the length of one of the sides. Some of the convicts were
playing fives, and the rest amusing themselves otherwise in the yard.
It was Sunday, a day always devoted to amusement by those outcasts of
society, who have their daily task exacted from them with rigour during
the rest of the week. They are taught, and work at every trade for
which they have a taste, and of which they are capable, so that some
who were useless burthens on society previous to their confinement,
carry with them, on their return to the world, the means of earning
a decent subsistence; though at {173} the same time, perhaps the
majority, instead of being reformed, become more prone to vice, through
despair of ever gaining their lost reputation. The institution had
like to have failed about two years ago, through the insufficiency of
the superintendants, when a captain Taylor, a man of good property in
Mercer county, who was an enthusiastick admirer of it, was prevailed on
by the governour to undertake the management and superintendance, and
it has since not only supported itself, but has earned a surplus, which
goes into the state treasury. Taylor is a stern man of steady habits,
and a great mechanical genius. He superintends every class of workmen
himself, and has invented several machines for the improvement of
mechanicks. He has nailors, coopers, chair makers, turners, and stone
cutters, the latter of whom cut and polish marble slabs of all sizes,
and he has taught most of them himself.

He is a large and strong man, about fifty years of age, and either
through eccentricity, or to give himself a terrifick appearance, he
wears his dark brown beard about two inches long, from each ear round
the lower part of the chin. It is surely a strange taste, which prompts
him to separate himself from his family and the world, to exercise a
petty tyranny over felons, and to live in such constant apprehension
from them, that, as I was informed, he always carries pistols.

We resisted the polite and friendly importunity of Mr. Hunter, to
spend the day with him, and quitting Frankfort, we took a different
route to that by which we had come, which brought us, after riding
ten miles mostly through woods, to Coles’s, who keeps an inn on this
road, in opposition to Daly, on the other. But any traveller, who has
once contrasted his rough vulgarity, and the badness of his table and
accommodations, with the taste, order, plenty, and good attendance of
his mulatto competitor, will {174} never trouble Mr. Coles a second
time, especially as there is no sensible difference in the length or
goodness of the roads, and that by Daly’s, is through a generally much
better settled country.

We got back to Lexington on Monday, 3d August, in time for breakfast,
which I partook of at the publick table of the Traveller’s Inn, merely
for curiosity, but notwithstanding the apparent elegance of the house,
my other landlord’s (Wilson) suffered nothing in the comparison.

I whiled away the day in expectation of the post, which was to decide
whether or not I should have the pleasure of my friend A----’s
company on my return to Pittsburgh, but owing to some unaccountable
irregularity, which is a cause of general complaint in this country
against the post-office department, it did not arrive until ten at
night, although it was due at eleven in the morning. Another very just
cause of complaint against the same department is the slowness with
which the mail is conveyed. A trifling improvement and a very small
additional expence, would forward the mails through the whole western
country, where the roads are comparatively good, and the climate very
fine, at the rate of fifty or sixty miles a day, except during floods
in the winter, where, for want of bridges, the roads are sometimes
impassable in particular spots for a few days, whereas, now, in the
best season, the average progress of the mails, does not exceed thirty
miles daily.

Mr. A---- having an engagement, the day would have passed very heavily,
had it not been for the coffee house, where I amused myself with
the wonderful mass of political contradiction to be found in forty
different newspapers, where scarcely any two editors coincided in
opinion.


FOOTNOTES:

[128] Leestown, laid out by Hancock Lee in 1775, was one of the
earliest settlements in Kentucky. Because of its location on the
Kentucky River, it seemed destined to become a town of importance. In
Cuming’s time, however, it had dwindled to a mere hamlet, and has since
long ceased to exist.--ED.

[129] For a sketch of the history of Frankfort, see F. A. Michaux’s
_Travels_, vol. iii of this series, p. 200, note 39. Daniel Weiseger
was a prominent Frankfort citizen, who assisted in laying out the town
and was one of the commissioners chosen for the erection of the second
Kentucky state-house, 1814.--ED.

[130] This was the first permanent Kentucky state-house, built in 1794,
and destroyed by fire in 1813. For a cut, see Collins, _History of
Kentucky_ (Covington, 1874), ii, p. 246.--ED.

[131] William Hunter was a native of New Jersey, who had been captured
at an early age by a French man-of-war, and carried to France, where
he learned the trade of printing. In 1793 he returned to America, and
formed a partnership with Matthew Carey at Philadelphia. Two years
later, he removed west, and after attempting newspapers in several
towns finally established _The Palladium_ at Frankfort in 1798, where
he was also State printer. Later in life he removed to Washington,
where he died in 1854.--ED.

[132] Christopher Greenup, third governor of Kentucky, was Virginia
born (1750), and served in the Revolution, attaining the rank of
colonel. In 1783, he migrated to Kentucky, and having already studied
law was, two years later, chosen as clerk of the chief court for
Kentucky District. His first service for the State was in Congress,
1792-97. After his gubernatorial experience (1804-08), he retired to
his home near Maysville, where he died in 1818.--ED.




{175} CHAPTER XXVIII

 Departure from Lexington--Bryan’s station--Wonderful fertility
    of soil--Paris--Sameness of prospect--Simplicity of election of
    state representatives--Frank bird--Hasten on--Violent attack
    of fever at May’s-lick--Washington--Occasional remarks on
    hospitality--Maysville--Good effects of fortitude and abstinence.


I left Lexington on Tuesday the 4th August, by a different road to that
by which I had first entered it, now taking the stage and post road
direct to Paris.

The morning was fine, the road good, and the country well settled and
improved, but the want of the company of my worthy friend A----, to
which I had now been so long accustomed, was felt by me so sensibly as
to make the miles appear uncommonly long.

At four miles I passed a celebrated old military post, called Bryan’s
station, where the first settlers of the state, repelled a desperate
attack of the Indians, who soon after in their turn, ambushed and cut
off Col. Todd’s little army at the Blue licks, as before mentioned.
This post is now the pleasant seat and fine farm of a Mr. Rogers.[133]

I soon after overtook an Irishman named Gray, who was one of the
first settlers. He rode two miles with me, and was intelligent and
communicative. He informed me that the usual produce of an acre of this
wonderfully luxuriant soil, is from forty to fifty bushels of shelled
corn, or from twenty to thirty-seven of wheat clean from the threshing
floor. And here I must observe, that I have not seen, nor heard of any
of the threshing machines now so common in the British European Isles,
in any part of America. As they save so much labour, I am astonished
that {176} they have not yet made their way across the Atlantick.--They
would be of incalculable utility to the very wealthy farmers of
Kentucky.

Crossing the North fork of Elkhorn, and Hewetson’s branch of Licking,
both good mill streams, I entered Paris, eighteen miles from Lexington.
It is situated on Stoner’s fork of Licking, and contains eighty-seven
dwelling houses mostly good ones, several of them of brick, and six or
seven building.

It is compact, in three small parallel streets, with a square in the
centre, on which is a stone meeting house, a neat brick court-house, a
small but strong gaol, and a market house. It is the seat of justice of
Bourbon county, and has much appearance of prosperity. From the cupola
of the court-house, there is an extensive view of a very rich country
as far as the eye can reach in every direction, but though it is a
country of hills and dales, there is too great a sameness to please the
eye.

Perhaps there is not on the earth a naturally richer country than
the area of sixteen hundred square miles of which Lexington is the
centre, yet there is a something wanting to please the eye of taste--a
variety, like the fertile plains of the Milanese, contrasted with the
neighbouring Alpine scenery, and studded with the noble lakes, and
streaked with the meandering rivers of that delightful region, which
has given such inimitable taste and execution to the pencils of so many
eminent painters.

It was the day of election for representatives in the legislature of
the state. The voting was very simple. The county clerk sat within the
bar of the court-house, and the freeholders as they arrived, gave him
their names and the names of those they voted for, which he registered
in a book.--That done, the voter remounted his horse and returned to
his farm.

The hostler at Buchanan’s inn, where I stopped to breakfast, is a
free negro man named Frank Bird. {177} He was formerly owned by the
great and good Washington, whom he accompanied and served in all
his campaigns. He had learned farriery, cooking and hairdressing in
England in his youth, so that he must have been a useful servant. He
was liberated and got some land near Mount Vernon, by the general’s
will, and now at the age of fifty-seven, he is hostler here, and enjoys
such health and strength, that a few days ago he carried eight bushels
of salt, exceeding four hundred pounds weight. The old man repaid my
complaisance in listening to him, by recounting as much of his own
memoirs as my time would permit me to hear.

I left Paris, and passing Millersburgh, and one of the first
settlements, called the Irish station, four miles further, just before
entering the barren country three or four miles on that side of Blue
licks, I spurred my horse past Nicholasville court-house and tavern,
where I counted above a hundred horses, fastened under trees. I was
induced to hasten past this place, as the voters in that sterile part
of the country did not appear quite so peaceable and orderly as those
I had seen in the morning at Paris, and I was not sure but some of
them might have been moved by the spirit of whiskey to challenge me to
run a race with them, or to amuse the company with a game of rough and
tumble, at both which the backwoods Virginians are very dexterous.

I arrived at May’s-lick about sunset, much fatigued with my ride of
fifty-two miles, in one of the hottest days of the season. I was very
feverish, yet I forced myself, though without appetite, to take a
light supper, after which I bathed my feet in warm water, and retired
to bed, where I passed a sleepless night in high fever and excessive
thirst, which being no ways abated at the first dawn of day, I arose
and called my host to prepare my horse, being determined not to sink
under my indisposition, while capable {178} of making the smallest
exertion. My flushed countenance, black and parched lips, and frequent
nausea, alarmed my host so as to induce him to dissuade me to proceed,
but finding me decided he prescribed a strong infusion of tansey in
Geneva--the bitterness of which a little relieved my thirst, but did
not prevent its return accompanied by nausea and excruciating headache,
in which situation I arrived at Washington at seven o’clock, and
returned my horse to its hearty old owner with the young fat wife.

I reposed a while on a bed at my friendly host Ebert’s, who as well as
Mrs. Ebert, was truly kind and hospitable.

Apropos--That last word just reminds me of a remark I have made in
the course of my tour. I had letters of introduction to some very
respectable merchants in different parts of this state, which were
productive of some general advice and information, but without my
being invited further into their houses than their shops, or (as they
are called) stores; or without having it in my power to excuse myself
from tasting their wine, cider, whiskey, or any thing else. I must
except Mr. Hunter of Frankfort, from this general remark, and the
polite invitation of general Russel on the road, was a specimen of the
hospitality of the country gentlemen, which I have heard much boasted
of, as brought with them from Virginia; so that I cannot absolutely tax
Kentucky with a total want of that virtue.

After taking a couple of basons of strong coffee without milk, I
found myself much relieved, and proceeded on foot to Maysville, where
I arrived in something more than an hour. The exercise of walking
had restored my perspiration, and after two hours repose at my host
January’s, I arose in a state of convalescence, sat down to the dinner
table, and forced myself to partake of a chicken--after which I devoted
the remainder of the day to quiet and reading {179}--took a cup of
coffee, retired early--had a good night’s rest, and felt no more of my
fever.

I am the more minute in describing my indisposition, partly to warn
other travellers, to avoid excessive fatigue under a hot sun, and
partly to shew the good effects to be derived from fortitude and
patience under most diseases. I am persuaded that had I obeyed the
dictates of my inclination, and my landlord’s advice at May’s lick,
I should have experienced a most severe, and probably fatal attack
of highly inflammatory and bilious fever--but by bearing up against
it--by perseverance in exercise and rest alternately--checking my
strong desire for liquids, and using only such as were proper for me,
and that moderately, and especially by refraining from every thing
which might have the smallest tendency towards keeping up the heat of
the blood, with the exception of the tansey bitters at May’s lick, I
precluded the necessity of either medicine or professional advice.


FOOTNOTES:

[133] See Durrett, _Bryant’s Station_ (Filson Club _Publications_, No.
12; Louisville, 1897).--ED.




CHAPTER XXIX

 Hospitality of farmers--Primative dispensation of justice--Ellis’s
    ferry, and Powers’ tavern--Squire Leadham--West Union--Allen’s--A
    North Carolina cotton planter--Brush creek--J. Platter’s--A thunder
    storm--A hunter’s cabin--Old Lashley--Marshon’s.


Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, I was employed in rambling about the
woods, exploring and examining a tract of land, of a thousand acres,
in the state of Ohio, which I had purchased when in Europe last year,
and which had been the principal cause of my present tour. As it was
only six miles from {180} Maysville, I crossed the Ohio and went to
it on foot. I had expected to have found a mere wilderness, as soon
as I should quit the high road, but to my agreeable surprise, I found
my land surrounded on every side by fine farms, some of them ten
years settled, and the land itself, both in quality and situation,
not exceeded by any in this fine country. The population was also
astonishing for the time of the settlement, which a muster of the
militia, while I was there, gave me an opportunity of knowing--there
being reviewed a battalion of upwards of five hundred effective men,
most expert in the use of the rifle, belonging to the district of ten
miles square.

And now I experienced amongst these honest and friendly farmers real
hospitality, for they vied with each other in lodging me at their
houses, and in giving me a hearty and generous welcome to their best
fare. Robert Simpson from New Hampshire, and Daniel Ker and Thomas
Gibson from Pennsylvania, shall ever be entitled to my grateful
remembrance. I had no letters of introduction to them--I had no claims
on their hospitality, other than what any other stranger ought to
have.--But they were farmers, and had not acquired those contracted
habits, which I have observed to prevail very generally amongst the
traders in this part of the world.

On Saturday I returned to Ellis’s ferry opposite Maysville, to
give directions for my baggage being sent after me by the stage to
Chilicothe.

On the bank of the Ohio I found squire Ellis seated on a bench
under the shade of two locust trees, with a table, pen and ink,
and several papers, holding a justice’s court, which he does every
Saturday.[134]--Seven or eight men were sitting on the bench with him,
awaiting his awards in their several cases.--When he had finished,
which was soon after I had taken a seat under the same shade, one
of the men invited the squire to drink with them, which he {181}
consenting to, some whiskey was provided from landlord Powers, in which
all parties made a libation to peace and justice. There was something
in the scene so primative and so simple, that I could not help enjoying
it with much satisfaction.

I took up my quarters for the night at Powers’s, who is an Irishman
from Ballibay, in the county of Monaghan. He pays squire Ellis eight
hundred dollars per annum for his tavern, fine farm and ferry. He and
his wife were very civil, attentive, and reasonable in their charges,
and he insisted much on lending me a horse to carry me the first
six miles over a hilly part of the road to Robinson’s tavern, but I
declined his kindness, and on Sunday morning, the 9th of August, after
taking a delightful bath in the Ohio, I quitted its banks. I walked on
towards the N. E. along the main post and stage road seventeen miles
to West Union,--the country becoming gradually more level as I receded
from the river, but not quite so rich in soil and timber.

The road was generally well settled, and the woods between the
settlements were alive with squirrels, and all the variety of
woodpeckers with their beautiful plumage, which in one species is
little inferiour to that of the bird of Paradise, so much admired in
the East Indies.

I stopped at twelve miles at the house of squire Leadham, an
intelligent and agreeable man, who keeps a tavern, and is a justice of
the peace. I chose bread and butter, eggs and milk for breakfast, for
which I tendered a quarter of a dollar, the customary price, but he
would receive only the half of that sum, saying that even that was too
much. Such instances of modest and just honesty rarely occur.[135]

West Union is three years old since it was laid out for the county town
of Adams county. The lots of one third of an acre in size, then sold
for about seventy dollars each. There were upwards of one {182} hundred
lots, which brought the proprietor above three thousand dollars. It
is in a healthy situation, on an elevated plain, and contains twenty
dwelling houses, including two taverns and three stores. It has also
a court-house and a gaol, in the former of which divine service was
performing when I arrived to a numerous Presbyterian congregation. One
of the houses is well built with stone; one of the taverns is a large
framed house, and all the rest are formed of square logs, some of which
are two stories high and very good.

Having to get a deed recorded at the clerk’s office of the county,
which could not be done until Monday morning, I stopt Sunday afternoon
and night at West Union, where my accommodations in either eating or
sleeping, could not boast of any thing beyond mediocrity.

Monday the 10th August, having finished my business and breakfasted, I
resumed my journey through a country but indifferently inhabited, and
at four miles and a half from West Union, I stopped for a few minutes
at Allen’s tavern, at the request of a traveller on horseback, who
had overtaken and accompanied me for the last three miles. He was an
elderly man named Alexander, a cotton planter in the S. W. extremity
of North Carolina, where he owns sixty-four negro slaves besides his
plantation--all acquired by industry--he having emigrated from Larne
in Ireland, in early life, with no property. He was now going to visit
a brother-in-law near Chilicothe. He had travelled upwards of five
hundred miles within the last three weeks on the same mare. He had
crossed the Saluda mountains, and the states of Tennessee and Kentucky,
and had found houses of accommodation at convenient distances all along
that remote road, but provender so dear, that he had to pay in many
places a dollar for half a bushel of oats.

{183} Allen’s is a handsome, roomy, well finished stone house, for
which, with twenty acres of cleared land, he pays a yearly rent of one
hundred and ten dollars, to Andrew Ellison, near Manchester.[136] He
himself is four years from Tanderagee, in the county Armagh, Ireland,
from whence he came with his family to inherit some property left him
by a brother who had resided in Washington, Kentucky, but two hundred
acres of land adjoining my tract near Maysville, was all he had been
able to obtain possession of, although his brother had been reputed
wealthy. I have met many Europeans in the United States, who have
experienced similar disappointments.

My equestrian companion finding that I did not walk fast enough for
him, parted from me soon after we left Allen’s. At two miles from
thence I came to Brush creek, a beautiful river about sixty yards wide.
A new state road crosses the river here, but as I had been informed,
that there was no house on it for ten miles, I preferred keeping up the
bank of the river on the stage road, which led through a beautiful but
narrow unsettled bottom, with Brush creek on the right, and a steep,
craggy precipice on the left, for a mile and a half. I then ascended
and descended a steep and barren ridge for a mile, when I forded
the creek to Jacob Platter’s finely situated tavern and farm on the
opposite bank.

Having rested and taken some refreshment, the growling of distant
thunder warned me to hasten my journey, as I had five miles through the
woods to the next habitation. The road was fine and level,--the gust
approached with terrifick warning--one flash of lightning succeeding
another in most rapid succession, so that the woods frequently appeared
as in a flame, and several trees were struck in every direction around
me, one being shattered within fifty paces on my right, while the
thunder without intermission of an instant was heard in every variety
of {184} sound, from the deafening burst, shaking the whole surrounding
atmosphere to the long solemn cadence always interrupted by a new and
more heavy peal before it had reached its pause. This elemental war
would have been sublimely awful to me, had I been in an open country,
but the frequent crash of the falling bolts on the surrounding trees,
gave me such incessant warnings of danger, that the sublimity was lost
in the awe. I had been accustomed to thunder storms in every climate,
and I had heard the roar of sixty ships of the line in battle, but
I never before was witness to so tremenduous an elemental uproar. I
suppose the heaviest part of the electrick cloud was impelled upon the
very spot I was passing.

I walked the five miles within an hour, but my speed did not avail me
to escape a torrent of rain which fell during the last mile, so that
long before I arrived at the hospitable dwelling of the Pennsylvania
hunter who occupied the next cabin, I was drenched and soaked most
completely. I might have sheltered myself from some of the storm under
the lee side of a tree, had not the wind, which blew a hurricane,
varied every instant--but independent of that, I preferred moving
along the road to prevent a sudden chill; besides, every tree being
a conductor, there is greater danger near the trunk of one, than in
keeping in a road, however narrow, which has been marked by the trees
having been cut down.

My host and his family had come here from the back part of Pennsylvania
only last May, and he had already a fine field of corn and a good deal
of hay. He had hitherto been more used to the chase than to farming,
and he boasted much of his rifle. He recommended his Pennsylvania
whiskey as an antidote against the effects of my ducking, and I took
him at his word, though he was much surprised to see me use more of it
externally than internally, which I did from experience that bathing
the feet, hands and head {185} with spirituous liquor of any sort,
has a much better effect in preventing chill and fever, either after
being wet of after violent perspiration from exercise, than taking any
quantity into the stomach, which on the contrary rarely fails to bring
on, or to add to inflammatory symptoms.--A little internally however I
have found to be a good aid to the external application.

I found at my friendly Pennsylvanian’s, a little old man named Lashley,
who had taken shelter at the beginning of the gust, which being now
over, he buckled on his knapsack, and we proceeded together. He had
travelled on foot from Tennessee river, through a part of the state
of Tennessee, quite across Kentucky, and so far in Ohio in nine days,
at the rate of thirty-six miles a day. He had assisted in navigating
a boat from Indian Wheeling, where he lived, to Tennessee, for which
he had got thirty dollars, ten of which he had already expended on his
journey so far back, though using the utmost economy. He remarked to
me, that although he was upwards of sixty years of age, and apparently
very poor, he had not got gratuitously a single meal of victuals in
all that route. Are not hospitality and charity more nominal than real
virtues?

The country for the next five miles is tolerably well improved, and
there is a good brick house which is a tavern owned by one Wickerham at
the first mile, and a mile further is Horn’s tavern, where the stage
sleeps on its route to the N. E. towards Chilicothe.

Old Lashley complaining of fatigue, we stopped at Marshon’s farm
house, ten miles from Brush creek, where finding that we could be
accommodated for the night, we agreed to stay, and were regaled with
boiled corn, wheaten griddle cake, butter and milk for supper, which
our exercise through the day gave us good appetites for, but I did
not enjoy my bed so {186} much as my supper, notwithstanding it was
the second best in the house, for besides that it was not remarkable
for its cleanliness, I was obliged to share it with my old companion;
fatigue however soon reconciled me to it, and I slept as well as if I
had lain on down between lawn sheets.

Marshon is from the Jerseys, he has a numerous family grown up, and
is now building a large log house on which he means to keep a tavern.
Three of his sons play the violin by ear--they had two shocking bad
violins, one of which was of their own manufacture, on which they
scraped away without mercy to entertain us, which I would most gladly
have excused, though I attempted to seem pleased, and I believe
succeeded in making them think I was so.

The land is here the worst I had seen since I had left the banks of the
Ohio; it had been gradually worse from about two miles behind squire
Leadham’s, and for the last two miles before we come to Marshon’s it
had degenerated into natural prairies or savannas, with very little
wood, and none deserving the name of timber, but well clothed with
brush and low coarse vegetation.


FOOTNOTES:

[134] Captain Nathan Ellis with five brothers embarked at Brownsville
in 1795, and floating down the Ohio, stopped at Maysville. Finding the
Kentucky lands well occupied they crossed to the Ohio shore and Nathan
Ellis established the ferry bearing his name. The title of the town
was later changed to Aberdeen in honor of his native place. On the
organization of Adams County, Ellis was appointed justice of the peace,
which office he filled until his death in 1819.--ED.

[135] Cuming was following the road known as Zane’s Trace, laid out
across Ohio from Wheeling to Maysville in 1796. From Ellis’s Ferry it
passed northeast through Adams County, up Brush Creek, through the
southwestern corner of Highland County, to Byrington and through Perry
Township in Pike County, down the valley of Paint Creek to Chillicothe.

William Leedom (Leadham) kept a tavern where Bentonville, Adams County,
now stands.--ED.

[136] The Indian captivity of Andrew Ellison is a well-known tale
of Ohio pioneer life. Authorities differ in details; we follow the
tradition handed down in the family. Andrew Ellison, born in 1755, came
to Kentucky as a young man, and in 1790 accompanied Massie into Ohio,
settling near Manchester. One day in 1793, while at work on his farm,
he was surprised and captured by a band of Indians. Pursuit failing
to overtake them, Ellison was carried to the Chillicothe towns where
in running the gauntlet he was severely beaten. Later being taken to
Detroit, he was ransomed for a blanket by an English officer, and being
supplied with food and clothing walked back across the state of Ohio,
arriving at his home in the early autumn. Four years later, he took
up a large tract of land on Brushy Creek, building thereon a stone
house--one of the best in the state at that time.--ED.




{187} CHAPTER XXX

 Heistant’s--Lashley goes on before--Sinking springs--Fatiguing
    road--Broadley’s--Musical shoemaker--Talbot’s--Dashing
    travellers--Bainbridge--Platter’s--Irish schoolmaster--Reeves’s--
    Paint creek--Cat-tail swamp--Rogers’s North fork of Paint--Arrival
    at Chilicothe--Meeker’s.


On Tuesday morning the 11th August, we arose with the dawn, and
notwithstanding there was a steady small rain, we pursued our journey,
having first paid Marshon fully as much for our simple and coarse
accommodations, as the best on the road would have cost, but our host
I suppose thought his stories and his son’s musick were equivalent for
all other deficiencies.

The land was poor, and no house on the road until we arrived at
Heistant’s tavern, four miles from Marshon’s, where we met the
Lexington stage.

My morning walk had given me an appetite for breakfast, which my fellow
traveller not being willing to be at the expence of, declined, and
saying that as I walked so much faster than him I would soon overtake
him, he went on, intending to satisfy his stomach occasionally with
some bread and cheese from his knapsack, and a drop of whiskey from his
tin canteen, from which he had made a libation at first setting out,
and had seemed surprised at my refusal of his invitation to partake.

Heistant is a Pennsylvania German, and has a good and plentiful house,
in a very pleasant situation, called the Sinking springs, from a
great natural curiosity near it. On the side of a low hill, now in
cultivation, are three large holes, each about twenty feet deep and
twenty feet diameter, about sixty paces apart, with a subterraneous
communication by which the water is conveyed from one to the other,
and issues in a fine rivulet at a fourth opening near the {188} house,
where Heistant’s milk house is placed very judiciously. The spring is
copious and the water very fine.[137]

After a good breakfast I walked on alone, and at about a mile, I
entered on a dreary forest having first passed Irwin’s tavern, a
pleasant situation where the stage sleeps going towards the S.
westward. Three miles from Irwin’s, is over very broken, but well
timbered hills, to the left of which on Brush creek, I was informed,
that there is a fine settlement, but it is not in sight of the road.
The next two miles was through a beech bottom, which was rendered so
miry by the rain that poured on me all the time, that it was most
laborious walking through it. About the middle of it, I met three men
in hunting shirts with each an axe in his hand. Their appearance in
that solitary situation was no ways agreeable; however, we gave each
other good day, and they told me that old Lashley had desired them
to inform me that he would await me at Bradley’s, the next house,
but when I came there, he had just departed, so that I might have
very soon overtaken him, had I not preferred being alone, to effect
which the more certainly, I stopped to rest, as it was a house of
private entertainment. Bradley and his wife are about sixteen years
from Stewartstown, county Tyrone in Ireland, and have a daughter
lately married to a young shoemaker named Irons at the next cabin,
where I stopped to get my shoes mended. I here found a dozen of stout
young fellows who had been at work repairing the road, and were now
sheltering themselves from the increasing storm, and listening to some
indifferent musick made by their host on a tolerably good violin. I
proposed taking the violin while he repaired my shoes. He consented and
sat down to work, and in a few minutes I had all the lads jigging it on
the floor merrily; Irons himself, as soon as he had repaired the shoes,
jumping up and joining them.

{189} Seeing no prospect of the storm ceasing, I satisfied my shoemaker
for his trouble, with something more agreeable to him than my musick,
and then set off to reach Talbot’s, said to be a good tavern, three
miles further.

The road led over the highest hill which I had yet seen since I left
the Ohio, and afterwards through a level, well wooded, but thinly
inhabited country.

In an hour I was at Talbot’s, which is a good two story house of
squared logs, with a large barn and excellent stabling, surrounded by a
well opened and luxuriant farm, with a fine run of meadow.

The landlord and his family are seven years from Nenagh in the county
Tipperary, and is the first Irish settler, I had seen on my tour,
from any other part than the north of Ireland. He had kept Ellis’s
ferry on the Ohio, where Powers now resides, for some years, and has
lately rented this house and farm from Mr. Willis of Chilicothe, the
contractor for carrying the mail from Wheeling to Lexington.

Observing a new stage wagon in the yard, my host informed me that it
was one which Mr. Willis intended in a few days to commence running
between Chilicothe and Ellis’s ferry, so that it, and the one already
established, will each run once a week on different days.

I shifted my wet clothes, and then (there being no doctor nearer
than Chilicothe, twenty-four miles) prescribed medicine and regimen
for Talbot’s little daughter, who was suffering under a severe and
dangerous attack of a nervous fever.

Three young men on horseback arrived soon after me, and were shewn into
the same room. They talked a little largely, according to a very common
custom among young travellers, intimating that they were just returning
from the Olympian springs in Kentucky, a place of very fashionable
resort, where they had been on a party of pleasure, and where they
{190} had attended more to cards, billiards, horse jockeying, &c. than
to the use of the waters for medicinal purposes. I am however much
mistaken, if they had not been travelling on business, and took the
opportunity of visiting those celebrated springs, which are the Bath of
Kentucky, and which they now affected to speak of as the sole cause
of their journey.[138] I listened with much amusement to their dashing
conversation, knowing tolerably well how to estimate it, in a country
where vanity in the young and ambition among the more advanced in life
are predominant features. I do not confine this remark to the state of
Ohio, where probably there is less of either than in the older states,
in which, particularly to the southward of New England, they seem to be
national characteristics.

We supped together and were then shewn to our beds by the landlord,
who probably thought that the custom of two in a bed was general in
America, by his shewing the whole four into a room with two beds: I
followed him however down stairs, and soon had a good bed prepared for
me in a room by myself.

On Wednesday morning the 12th August, I proceeded through a wilderness
of fine land well adapted for cultivation, and finely timbered to
Bainbridge, a hamlet of eight cabins, a large stone house building,
a blacksmith shop, a post-office, and a store kept by William Daly
for Humphrey Fullerton of Chilicothe. Daly told me that he had a good
deal of business for the five months he had been here, there being a
populous and well cultivated country in the neighbourhood on Buckskin
and Paint creeks, at the falls of the latter of which, about a mile to
the northward of Bainbridge are some of the best mills in the state,
owned by Gen. Massey, who is also proprietor of Bainbridge, which he
laid out for a town about a year ago, selling the lots at about thirty
dollars each.

{191} The reason assigned for the lands being generally so badly
settled along the roads, is, that they belong to wealthy proprietors,
who either hold them at a very high price, or will not divide them into
convenient sized farms.

From Bainbridge to Reeves’s on the bank of Paint creek, is through
a fine well wooded level, with hills in sight from every opening in
the woods, about a mile distant. I passed a finger post on the left,
a mile from Bainbridge, pointing to the westward and directing to
Cincinnatti seventy-three miles, and immediately after I left Platter’s
tavern and well cultivated farm on the right, a little beyond which is
a school-house, where I observed the schoolmaster, an Irish looking
old man, with silver grey locks and barefooted, his whole appearance,
and that of the cabin which was the school, indicating but little
encouragement for the disseminating of instruction.

A mile from Platter’s I stopped at Reeves’s, where I had been informed
I could be well accommodated, although it was not a tavern, and I
proved my information to be correct, as I immediately got the breakfast
I asked for, excellent bread, and rich milk, neatly served, in a large
handsome and clean room, for which it was with difficulty I could
prevail on Mrs. Reeves to accept any recompence.

This house is charmingly situated near the bank of Paint creek, and
was the best I had seen since I entered the state of Ohio, it being
spacious, of two lofty stories, and well built with very handsome
stone. It is surrounded on all sides by a noble and well improved
farm, which nine years ago, when Reeves came here from Washington in
Pennsylvania, was a wilderness. He built his handsome house about five
years ago, and at some distance on the bank of the creek, he has a
large tanyard and leather shop, from whence one of his men, ferried me
across the creek in a canoe.

{192} Paint creek is a beautiful little river about forty yards wide,
running easterly to join the Scioto near Chilicothe.

My walk from hence to the north fork of Paint creek, was a most
fatiguing one, being thirteen miles, mostly along a very rich bottom,
with the creek on the right, and steep hills on the left, over spurs of
which the road sometimes leads, which was always a relief to me, after
wading for miles through the mud below. This tract is tolerably well
settled, the soil being esteemed as rich as any in the state. At eleven
miles from Reeves’s, is a hamlet of six or seven cabins called Cat-tail
swamp, and two miles further I came to Rogers’s on the bank of the
north fork of Paint.

Reeves’s appears to be the best land and the best improved farm on
this side the Ohio, but Rogers’s, nearly as good a soil, is I think
superiour in beauty of situation. The house which is a story and a half
high is of square logs, and commodious enough for a farm house. It is
on a moderately high bank, from whence they descend to the river by a
flight of wooden steps, at the foot of which is a most beautiful spring
which flows into a cask sunk on purpose, and from thence is conveyed by
a small spout into the river, whose bank is guarded by a natural wall
of soft slate, which I think could be easily wrought into good covering
for houses. Nature has formed natural stairs of the slate, by which one
may descend to any depth into the river for bathing, washing linen,
or for any purpose which may be necessary, in proportion as the river
rises or falls. A swimmer may also enjoy that invigorating exercise
charmingly, as though the river is only about thirty yards wide, it is
at this place sufficiently deep, and the current is moderate. Rogers
has been here about nine years from Virginia, and was one of the first
settlers in this part of the country.

{193} I supped and slept here, and next morning, Thursday the 13th
August, after refreshing by swimming in the river, I pursued my way
to Chilicothe four miles, the first mile and half of which was over a
chain of moderately high and not very steep hills of a tolerably good
soil, to colonel M’Arthur’s elegant stone house and noble farm.[139]
The other two miles and a half was through a level plain, passing
a neat house and handsome improvement of Mr. Henry Massey’s, just
before entering Chilicothe, which I did at eight o’clock, stopping at
Muker’s tavern, as the breakfast bell rang, which summoned seventeen or
eighteen boarders and travellers to an excellent breakfast with good
attendance, to which I did ample justice, after my bath and walk.


FOOTNOTES:

[137] Sinking Springs is in the southwestern corner of Highland County,
Ohio.--ED.

[138] Olympian Springs was in Bath County, Kentucky, a few miles
southeast of Owingsburg. Its popularity has declined; in 1880 there
were but twenty-five inhabitants at the place.--ED.

[139] The home of General McArthur was known as “Fruit Hill.” Duncan
McArthur was of Scotch parentage, born in New York in 1772. Left early
to his own resources, he volunteered under Harmar in 1791, worked at
the Maysville salt-works, and in 1793 became chain-bearer for General
Massie in the latter’s survey of Ohio lands. McArthur’s industry and
capacity soon secured his promotion to the position of assistant
surveyor, and by judicious choice of lands he acquired wealth and
prominence. Having been major-general of Ohio militia for some years,
his services were called for in the War of 1812-15, and he was at
Detroit when it was surrendered by Hull. Released on parole, he was
elected to Congress, whence he resigned to become brigadier-general
in the army, and served in the Western division thereof throughout
the war. Later began his political career, consisting of two terms in
Congress (1822-26), and the governorship of Ohio (1830). But as an
anti-Jacksonian, he failed of re-election, and retired to “Fruit Hill”
where he died in 1840.--ED.




CHAPTER XXXI

 The Scioto--Chilicothe--Indian monument--Fine prospect--Colonel
    M’Arthur’s--Colonel Worthington’s.


Chilicothe, which signifies town in most of the Indian dialects, is
most beautifully situated on the right bank of the Scioto, about
forty-five miles by land, and nearly seventy following its meanders
from the confluence of that river with the Ohio, between Portsmouth and
Alexandria. In all that distance the river has a gentle current, and
unimpeded navigation for large keels, and other craft for four feet
draught of water. It continues navigable for smaller boats and batteaux
upwards of one hundred miles above Chilicothe, towards its source to
the northward, from whence it glides gently through a naturally rich,
level, and rapidly improving country.

{194} The situation of the town, which is the capital of the
state,[140] is on an elevated and extensive plain of nearly ten
thousand acres of as fine a soil as any in America, partly in
cultivation and partly covered with its native forests.

This plain is nearly surrounded by the Scioto, which turning suddenly
to the N. E. from its general southerly course, leaves the town to
the southward of it, and then forms a great bend to the eastward and
southward.

Water street which runs about E. by N. parallel to the Scioto, is
half a mile long, and contains ninety houses. It is eighty-four feet
wide, and would be a fine street, had not the river floods caved in
the bank in one place near the middle, almost into the centre of it.
There is now a lottery on foot, to raise money for securing the bank
against any further encroachments of the river. Main street, parallel
to Water street, is one hundred feet wide, as is Market street which
crosses both at right angles, and in which is the market-house, a neat
brick building eighty feet long. The court-house in the same street is
neatly built of freestone, on an area of forty-five by forty-two feet,
with a semicircular projection in the rear, in which is the bench for
the judges. It has an octangular belfry rising from the roof, painted
white with green lattices, which is an ornament to the town, as is
the small plain belfry of the Presbyterian meeting-house, a handsome
brick building in Main street; in which street also is a small brick
Methodist meeting-house. These are the only places of publick worship
in the town, if I except the court-house, which is used occasionally by
the Episcopalians and other sects.

{195} The whole number of dwelling houses in Chilicothe, as I counted
them, is two hundred and two, besides four brick and a few framed
ones now building. I reckoned only six taverns with signs, which
small proportion of houses of that description, speaks volumes in
favour of the place. There are fourteen stores, a post-office, and two
printing-offices, which each issues a gazette weekly.[141]

The scite of the town being on a gravelly soil, the streets are
generally clean. The houses are of freestone, brick, or timber
clapboarded, the first of which is got in the neighbourhood, is of a
whitish brown colour, and excellent for building. They are mostly very
good and are well painted.

On the whole I think Chilicothe is not exceeded in beauty of plan,
situation, or appearance, by any town I have seen in the western part
of the United States.

There is a remarkable Indian monument in Mr. Watchup’s garden in the
very heart of the town.--Like that at Grave creek, it is circular at
the base, about seventy or eighty feet diameter, but differs from that,
by being round, instead of flat on the top, which has an elevation of
about thirty feet perpendicular from the level of the plain. It is
formed of clay, and though it has been perforated by the proprietor,
nothing has been found to justify the common opinion of these mounts
having been barrows or cemeteries. They talk of having it levelled,
as it projects a little into Market street, but I think it a pity to
destroy any of the very few vestiges of aboriginal population, which
this country presents to the curious and inquisitive traveller.

From a steep hill, about three hundred feet perpendicular height, just
outside the western extremity of the town, is a most charming view of
the streets immediately below, under the eye like a plan on paper: Then
the Scioto, from one hundred to one hundred {196} and fifty yards wide,
winding on the left, and some low hills about two miles beyond it
terminating the view, to the N. E. while to the eastward and westward,
as far as the eye can reach both ways, is spread a country, partly
flat, and partly rising in gentle swells, which if cultivation proceeds
in equal proportion, to what it has done since Chilicothe was first
laid out about ten years ago, must, in a very short time present one of
the finest landscapes imaginable.

Colonel M’Arthur coming to town was polite enough to invite me to
take a bed at his house, which I had passed about two miles back in
the morning. I found the situation surpassed what I had thought of it
then, when I only saw it from the road, it commanding a beautiful and
extensive prospect including the town of Chilicothe, which, however is
now seen rather indistinctly on account of the foliage of some trees on
the brow of a small projecting hill, which will probably soon be cut
down.

Next morning, Friday, 14th August, I walked before breakfast half a
mile through the woods to the northward, to an elegant seat belonging
to Col. Worthington.[142] It will be finished in a few weeks and will
be one of the best and most tasty houses not only of this state, but to
the westward of the Allegheny mountains. It is about sixty feet square,
with a square roof, and two large receding wings. It has two lofty
stories, with six rooms on each floor, and cellars and vaults beneath.
The wings contain kitchen, scullery, apartments for servants, &c.

Like colonel M’Arthur’s it is built with freestone, but the stone of
the front is all hewn and squared, like the generality of the houses in
the new part of Glasgow in Scotland, the stone being very similar both
in colour and quality. The situation is like Col. M’Arthur’s, being
on the brow of the same ridge of hills, and affording nearly the same
prospects. Both houses were built by two young Virginians of the {197}
name of Morris, who are almost self taught masons and architects, and
whose work and style does them much credit.

I returned to town on Friday after breakfast, and dined, supped and
slept at Muker’s, which is a very good and well frequented inn, and
at five o’clock on Saturday the 15th August, I left Chilicothe in the
stage with a Mr. M’Cammon of Charleston and two other passengers.


FOOTNOTES:

[140] By a law of the last session of the legislature, the seat of
the state government was removed to Zanesville, on the Muskingum
river.--CRAMER.

[141] These were the _Scioto Gazette_ and _The Supporter_, the latter a
Federalist paper in existence from 1807 to 1821.--ED.

[142] Colonel Thomas Worthington was a Virginian who had emigrated
to Ohio in 1798. He liberated over forty slaves on coming to the
Northwest Territory, and was a pronounced upholder of free labor.
His services for his adopted state were considerable. The year after
his first arrival he was sent to the territorial legislature; in the
State Constitutional Convention (1802) it was Colonel Worthington who
proposed the northward extension of the boundary. Turning to national
affairs, he represented Ohio in the United States Senate for two terms
(1803-07; 1810-14), and returned to serve as governor of his adopted
state for four years (1815-19). His remaining years were given to
service in the State legislature, developing the common-school system,
championing sound finance and internal improvements. He died in New
York City in 1827. The home of which Cuming here speaks was known as
“Adena,” and is still standing.--ED.




CHAPTER XXXII

 Congo--Crouse’s mill--Pickaway plains--Beautiful
    prairies--Tarleton and Lybrant’s excellent inn--Vestiges of a
    great fire--River Hockhocking--New Lancaster--Babb’s--Jonathan’s
    creek--Springfield--River Muskingum and falls--Zanesville.


We crossed the Scioto at a ferry from the town, the stage and four
horses being all carried over in the boat.

The first two miles were over a rich bottom, subject to inundation from
the river floods in the winter. We had then three miles of a hilly
country to Congo, a fine settlement in and round a beautiful prairie, a
mile long to Crouse’s mill. This Crouse is a wealthy man, having a good
house and offices, a farm of two sections, containing thirteen hundred
acres, and an excellent mill-house and mill wrought by a creek which
crosses the road and falls into the Scioto half a mile on the left.
Another mile brought us to Rickey’s tavern, from whence a road leads
to the left to Pickaway Plains, which is a noble and rich prairie, on
the west side of the Scioto, fourteen miles long, formerly a principal
settlement of the Indians,[143] and {198} now well inhabited by their
white successors, who have a town called Levingston on the Prairie.

From Rickey’s to M’Cutchin’s tavern is four miles, across a beautiful
savanna, variegated with clumps of trees, and fine groves, with farms
at every half mile. We here stopped for a few minutes to water the
horses, and I exchanged my seat in the stage, with a Mr. Willis of
Chilicothe,[144] who had accompanied us on horseback, on his way to
the federal city, Washington, to make some arrangements respecting the
mails. The exchange suited us both, as on horseback I had a better view
of the country, and his health being delicate, he preferred the stage.

The next six miles were through a thinly wooded but rich plain, with a
farm every mile, and a tavern every three miles. The road was so far
level but very miry, then another mile and a half over some hilly and
broken land brought us to Lybrant’s tavern.

Had I not been informed, I should not have known that I was now in
the town of Tarleton, as there was but one other house besides the
tavern; three or four more were however just going to be built, and our
landlord had no doubt of its soon becoming a smart town. The lots were
sold at from sixteen to twenty-five dollars each.

Lybrant’s is one of the best and most reasonable inns I had met with in
my tour. At one o’clock we set down to a most excellent breakfast of
good coffee, roast fowls, chicken pie, potatoes, bread and butter, and
cucumbers both sliced and pickled, all not only good, but delicate and
fine even to the pastry, which is very uncommon in this country, and
our charge was only a quarter of a dollar.

For eight miles from Tarleton, the road runs through low, rich and miry
black oak woods, and now and then a small prairie, and settlements
not {199} nearer each other than every two miles. The country then
rising into hills the road improves, but it continues equally thinly
inhabited, the settlements being mostly on what is called the old
county road, which runs parallel to the state road about a mile and
a half to the northward of it, and is better and shorter by a mile
between Chilicothe and New Lancaster.

After riding a mile among the hills I passed Stukey’s tavern, for
six miles beyond which the face of the country is very picturesque;
the tops of the hills terminating in rocks, some impending and some
perpendicular, while the road leads through a defile winding round
their bottoms. The whole country is covered with dwarf oak, and other
low shrubs and bushes and some thinly scattered black oaks of stunted
growth. This scarcity of timber is partly owing to the poverty of the
soil, and partly to the effect of fire, which must have gone through
this whole district of six or seven miles, and that at no very distant
period back, from many evident marks still remaining. What a grand yet
awful scene must have been such a tract of woods in flames!

There is no house for three miles from Stukey’s tavern, and from
that to within a mile of New Lancaster, there are but two other
settlements.--Then, on descending a low hill, and emerging from the
woods into an extensive natural meadow on the western bank of the
Hockhocking, that town presents itself suddenly to view, well situated
on a rising ground on the opposite side of the river, and making a
better appearance at that distance than it has on entering it. A wooden
bridge crosses the river, which is here only a rivulet just below the
town, and here I passed a number of men engaged in racing their horses.

New Lancaster[145] is a compact little town of one wide street, about
six hundred paces long, containing {200} sixty houses, amongst which is
a neat little court-house of brick, forty-two by thirty-six feet, just
built, with a cupola belfry. There are six stores and nine taverns.
There is but one brick house, all the rest being of wood, amongst which
conspicuously the best is that of Mr. Bucher a lawyer. In most towns in
the United States, the best houses are chiefly inhabited by gentlemen
of that profession.

After supping at the inn where the stage stopped, I was shewn to bed up
stairs in a barrack room the whole extent of the house, with several
beds in it, one of which was already occupied by a man and his wife,
from the neighbouring country, who both conversed with me until I
feigned sleep, in hopes that would silence them, but though they then
ceased to direct their discourse to me, they continued to talk to each
other on their most private and domestick affairs, as though there had
been no other person in the room. In spite of their conversation I at
last fell asleep, but I was soon awoke in torture from a general attack
made on me by hosts of vermin of the most troublesome and disgusting
genii. I started from the bed, dressed myself, spread a coverlet on
the floor, and lay down there to court a little more repose, but I was
prevented by a constant noise in the house during the whole night,
beginning with church musick, among which some sweet female voices were
discernible, and ending in the loud drunken frolicks of some rustick
guests, who kept Saturday night until late on Sunday morning.

Previous to going to bed I had sauntered round the town, and I
observed all the taverns filled with guests in the roughest style of
conviviality, from which I infer that the last day of the week is
generally devoted to the orgies of Bacchus; by the same classes of
people who on the succeeding day, attend with pious regularity the
dogmatick lectures of some fanatick dispenser of the gospel. What an
heterogeneous {201} animal is man!--sometimes exalted to an approach
towards divinity, sometimes debased to lower than brutality:--A
perpetual struggle between the essence and the dregs.

The dawn of morning relieved me from my uncomfortable couch, and going
down stairs, I found all as silent as an hour before it had been noisy.
I walked out into the town, where the same stillness prevailed, so I
lounged along the banks of the Hockhocking enjoying the morning air,
until a thick mist rising with the sun envelopped me, when I returned
to the inn and finding the stage ready to depart, I again mounted Mr.
Willis’s horse, and set out in advance of it.

Leaving New Lancaster and the fog below, I proceeded eighteen miles
through a hilly country, with settlements within every mile, many of
which were taverns. I then stopped at Babb’s, the sign of the house,
appropriate to its being the half way house between Lancaster and
Zanesville. Here an old father, two sons and three daughters, (spruce,
well formed girls, with a most wonderful volubility of tongue) worried
me with questions, until I excused myself from further gratifying their
inexhaustible curiosity by pleading fatigue, and throwing myself on a
bed, I awaited the arrival of the stage, about an hour, when we got
an excellent breakfast, every article of which served as a topick for
conversation to our garrulous entertainers, who affected to know a
little of every thing and of every body.

Nine miles from Babb’s, through a similar country and very bad road
with houses and taverns as in the morning, brought me to Jonathan’s
creek, a handsome little river, about twenty yards wide, which I
forded. The road was now generally level seven miles to Springfield,
mostly through pleasant and rich little bottoms, with the creek close
on the right more than half the way, and the country so thickly {202}
inhabited, that was it not for the dead girdled[146] trees every where
in the corn and wheat fields and meadows, it would have the appearance
of an old settlement.

About a mile from Springfield I passed through a fine plain of a light
sandy soil very proper for small grain, such as wheat, rye and oats,
which has been cleared previous to this country being known to the
whites. It is now covered with dwarf oak, hazle, and other copse wood,
and contains probably fifteen hundred acres.

Springfield is a long straggling village, on a fine flat, sheltered on
the north by a small chain of low but abrupt hills, and bounded on the
south by the beautiful river Muskingum. The road or street is of clean
gravel, and the cabins are distinguished from those I had hitherto
seen by their chimneys of brick, instead of stone or logs. There are
some good brick houses building, and some taverns and some stores,
which give it a thriving appearance. There is also a fine grist and saw
mill at the falls of the Muskingum at the upper end of the town. That
river is about a hundred yards wide at the ferry just below the falls,
which are formed by its being precipitated in a sheet, over a rock of
about three feet perpendicular depth, which extends quite across, and
is a fine object in the surrounding picturesque scenery. Another good
object is a cliff impending over the falls, which terminates the chain
of low hills behind Springfield.

I crossed the ferry to Zanesville, and dismounted at an inn where the
stage generally stops. On entering I walked into a room, the door of
which was open, where the first object that met my eye was the {203}
corpse of a female, laid out in her shroud on a bier. There was no
person in the room but another female who was seated near the corpse,
and to whom I apologized for my abrupt entrance, explaining my reasons
as being in advance of the stage. She answered by wishing she had
some mode of preventing the stage from driving up to the house, as
her sister had died that morning, and it would be inconvenient to
accommodate travellers that night, on which I remounted, rode to the
post office, where I found the stage delivering the mail, from whence
in consequence of my information, the driver took us to Harvey’s
very good inn, where we found an excellent supper, clean beds, a
consequential host and hostess, and the highest charges I had hitherto
paid in Ohio.

Zanesville was laid out for a town six or seven years ago. It
contains forty houses much scattered and does not seem to thrive so
much as Springfield, which is only two or three years old, contains
fifty houses, and bids fair to become of more consequence than
Zanesville,[147] notwithstanding the latter is the county town of
Muskingum county. It was named after Mr. Zane of Wheeling, who as a
recompense for opening the first road from Wheeling to Chilicothe, got
a grant of three sections of land of six hundred and forty acres each.
On one section he founded Zanesville; on another, New Lancaster, and
the third is part of the rich bottom on the bank of the Scioto opposite
to Chilicothe.


FOOTNOTES:

[143] Pickaway Plains, in Pickaway County south of Circleville, was
said to contain the richest land in Ohio. It was a noted rendezvous for
the Shawnees; from hence started the army that Lewis defeated at Point
Pleasant (1774), and here at a camp which he called Camp Charlotte in
honor of the queen, Lord Dunmore made the peace that ended the war.
Here, also, Chief Logan’s famous speech was delivered.--ED.

[144] Nathaniel Willis, the grandfather of the poet by that name, was a
printer, who prided himself on having been a participant in the Boston
Tea-party. During the Revolution, he was proprietor of the Boston
_Independent Chronicle_. On peace being declared, he went to Virginia,
and at Martinsburg published for a few years the _Potomac Guardian_.
Tempted by reports from the new territory, he once more removed and
established (probably in 1800) the _Scioto Gazette_ at Chillicothe, the
third newspaper of the state. He was also, for a time, state printer,
and as Cuming informs us connected with the forwarding of the mail.--ED.

[145] The site of New Lancaster had previously been that of a
well-known Indian village called Standing Stone from an eminence in
the vicinity. It was the most southwestern town of the Delawares in
Ohio, and was also called French Margaret’s Town, because a daughter
of Madame Montour had at one time resided therein. As an American
settlement it was laid out by Zane in 1800; later, “New” was dropped
from its title by legislative enactment.--ED.

[146] A hasty and temporary way of clearing land, by notching the bark
all round the trunks of the large trees, which kills them, and in a
few years they fall by their own top weight aided by the least gust of
wind, if not cut down in the interim at the increasing leisure of the
cultivator.--CRAMER.

[147] Since it has been determined that Zanesville is to be the seat of
the state government at least for a time, the town is making a rapid
progress in population, buildings, and improvements generally. The
country around it is also opening into fine farms on both sides of the
river. Furnaces and forges are erecting in the neighbourhood, saw and
grist mills, and a paper mill not far distant.--CRAMER.




{204} CHAPTER XXXIII

 Brown’s--Extensive prospect--Anticipation--Ensloe’s--Will’s
    creek plains--Will’s creek--European and American drivers
    compared--Cambridge--Beymer’s--Drove of cattle--Two travelling
    families--Good effects of system.


On Monday 17th August, I proceeded from Zanesville before breakfast.
The first nine miles were through a hilly country with houses every
mile or two, the road tolerably good except in a few steep or miry
spots. I then passed Brown’s tavern, most romantically situated in a
deep and narrow valley, with Salt creek, a rivulet which I crossed,
running through it. Two genteel looking travellers were at Brown’s door
as I passed. It was about breakfast time. My appetite tempted me to
stop and join them, but reflecting the stage would then get before me,
I repressed it, and trotted on towards the usual place of breakfast of
the stage.

From Salt creek, I ascended half a mile of a steep road to the highest
hill which I had been yet on in this state, and keeping two miles along
its ridge, I had there to ascend a still higher pinnacle of it, from
whence there is a most extensive view in every direction, of ridges
beyond ridges covered with forests, to the most distant horizon; but
though grand and extensive, it is dreary and cheerless, excepting to
a mind which anticipates the great change which the astonishingly
rapid settlement of this country will cause in the face of nature in
a few revolving years. Such a mind will direct the eye ideally to the
sides of hills covered with the most luxuriant gifts of Ceres; to
valleys divested of their trees, and instead of the sombre forest,
strengthening the vision with their verdant herbage, while the rivers
and brooks, no {205} longer concealed by woods, meander through them
in every direction in silvered curves, resplendent with the rays of
a glowing sun, darting through an unclouded atmosphere; while the
frequent comfortable and tasty farm house--the mills--the villages,
and the towns marked by their smoke and distant spires, will cause the
traveller to ask himself with astonishment, “So short a time since,
could this have been an uninhabited wilderness?”

This lofty ridge continues with various elevations five miles and a
half farther to Ensloe’s tavern, and is well inhabited all the way, and
well timbered, though the soil is rather light. I here stopped to await
the stage and breakfast, after which I rode on through a hilly country,
rather thinly inhabited, five miles, and then three more on a flat, of
the most wretched road imaginable, from the frequency of sloughs of
stiff mud and clay. Travellers have ironically nicknamed this part of
the road Will’s creek plains. It is really almost impassable for even
the strong stage wagons which are used here.

After getting safely through the plains, and a mile further over a
ridge, I came to Will’s creek, which is a small muddy river with a very
slow current. The banks are steep and the bottom muddy, so that it has
to be crossed by a wooden bridge, which has become extremely dangerous,
from some of the posts having been unplaced by floods, so that it is
shelving, one side being a good deal higher than the other, and the
balustrade is so much decayed that it would not support a man, much
less a carriage, yet bad as it was, I had to pay a toll of an eighth
of a dollar for my horse. Though the European drivers far exceed the
American in dexterity and speed, on their fine roads, in this country
they would be good for nothing, and would pronounce it impossible to
get a carriage through roads, that the American driver dashes through
without a thought.--So much for habit.

{206} On crossing the bridge, I was astonished to find myself in a
town of cabins in the midst of a forest, which I had heard nothing of
before. It is called Cambridge, and was laid out last year by Messrs.
Gumbar and Beattie the proprietors, the first of whom resides in it.
The lots sell at from thirty to thirty-five dollars each. There are
now twelve cabins finished and finishing, each of which contains two
or three families; about as many more and some good houses, are to be
commenced immediately. The settlement being very sudden, there was
not as yet house room, for the furniture, utensils, and goods of the
settlers, those articles were therefore lying out promiscuously about
the cabins. The settlers are chiefly from the island of Guernsey, near
the coast of France, from whence eight families arrived only four
months ago.

I think Cambridge bids fair to become the capital of a county very
soon.[148] The lands in the neighbourhood are equal in richness of soil
to any I have seen on this side of Paint creek bottoms near Chilicothe.

Four miles from hence through a hilly country, brought me to Beymer’s
tavern, passing a drove of one hundred and thirty cows and oxen,
which one Johnston was driving from the neighbourhood of Lexington in
Kentucky, to Baltimore. The intercourse between the most distant parts
of the United States is now so common, that imported merchandize is
wagonned all the way to Chilicothe and the intermediate towns, from
Philadelphia and Baltimore, nearly six hundred miles, and then retailed
as cheaply as at the ports of entry.

The drover with six assistants, two horsemen, two family wagons, and
the stage wagon, put up at Beymer’s for the night, so that the house
which was only a double cabin, was well filled, though not so much
crowded as might have been expected, as the cattle drivers made a
fire and encamped without doors, convenient to where they had penned
the cattle, and {207} one of the travelling families slept in their
wagon.--This family consisted of a man and his wife, and a neighbour’s
daughter, who had removed to this state last year, from near Washington
in Pennsylvania, and were now returning two hundred miles for some
effects they had left behind. The other family, named Hutchinson, had
emigrated from Massachusetts to Franklinville in this state, four
years ago. By clearing and cultivating a farm and keeping a store, a
distillery, and a saw mill, and then selling their property at its
increased value, they had in that short time acquired a sufficiency to
think themselves independent, and were now returning, to settle in some
place in the neighbourhood of Albany, in the state of New York, where
the old man said, “he would be once more in the world.” The systematick
order which this family observed in travelling, and the comparative
ease and comfort they enjoyed in consequence, were circumstances
noticed by me with much admiration. The family consisted of Hutchinson
and his wife, two daughters from fifteen to seventeen years of age, a
grown up son they called doctor, another son about ten, and a young
man who had had the charge of the mill, and who still continued with
the family. They had a wagon, with four horses, and a saddle horse rode
by one of the girls. On their stopping, the daughters began directly
to prepare supper, as though they were at home, baked bread enough to
serve them that night and next day, and then they sat down to sewing
as composedly, as if they had been in their own house, and not on a
journey; while the boys took care of the horses, and the old couple,
though still active and healthy, sat at their ease, chatting and
enjoying themselves. At all events _they_ were reaping the benefit of
having brought up their family in orderly and industrious habits, and
the cheerfulness and hilarity which pervaded each individual, was a
proof that they were all equally {208} sensible of the blessings which
their own good conduct had put them in the enjoyment of.

I had a good supper and bed, and found Beymer’s double cabin a most
excellent house of accommodation. He is one of the proprietors of the
stage wagons, and owns very considerable property in the state.


FOOTNOTES:

[148] Cambridge was made the seat of Guernsey County when the latter
was established in 1811.--ED.




CHAPTER XXXIV

 Proceed on foot--Washington--Frankfort--Morristown--Usual consequences
    of a militia muster--St. Clairsville--Another traveller--Indian
    Wheeling--Canton--River Ohio and Zane’s island--Wheeling--Part with
    my fellow traveller.


On Tuesday the 18th August, the stage being only to go fifteen miles,
and the same distance next day, on account of the arrangement of the
carriage of the mails, rather than travel such a snail’s pace, I
proceeded on foot, leaving my baggage to follow in the stage. The first
five miles were excellent road, over a long but not very high ridge of
hills, without a single house to Washington, or Beymerstown, as it is
more generally called, from its being owned by the family of Beymer,
two of whom keep taverns in it.--It has twelve cabins, four of which
are taverns, and a blacksmith’s shop.

Four and a half miles further have no inhabitants; the road is
still good, but is led over several high, short and steep ridges,
which generally run from north to south. Then passing a cabin and
farm, in half a mile more I came to Frankfort or Smithstown, where
I breakfasted. This is a small village or rather hamlet of eight
or ten houses and cabins, some of which, as well as several in the
neighbourhood, are inhabited by families from Peeks-hill in New York,
many of whom regret their having removed {209} from thence to this
place, and with great reason, if one may judge from the appearance
of the soil, which is all a red and yellow clay, very stiff, and
apparently very unproductive.

The country now became better settled, but still continued very hilly.
I walked on, passing Wherry’s tavern where the stage was to sleep at
five miles, and stopping at Bradshaw’s, where I rested about half an
hour, and got some refreshment. This family is from the county Monaghan
in Ireland. Their house is too small for an inn, but they have a good
farm. Ten miles further brought me to Morristown, through a similar
hilly country, with a succession of woods and farms, the latter at
every mile, and a tavern at every two miles.

On the road I met in straggling parties above fifty horsemen with
rifles, who had been in Morristown at a militia muster, for the purpose
of volunteering, or of being drafted to serve against Britain, in case
of a war with that country, now much talked of. Most of them were above
half seas over, and they travelled with much noise--some singing, some
swearing, some quarrelling, some laughing, according to their different
natural dispositions, which are always most manifest when in that
unguarded situation.

I found Morristown, where I arrived just before dark, all in a bustle
from the same cause, many of the country people remaining to a late
hour, drinking and fighting.

My host Morrison who is a justice of the peace, and a major of the
militia, had shut his house against them, but there was another tavern,
where squire Morrison, while commanding the peace, during an affray,
came in for his share of the blows, and had his shirt torn.

I got a very good supper--bathed my feet and went to bed in a room
where a man and his wife, a young married couple, in another bed, acted
over a {210} similar scene to what I had experienced at New Lancaster,
keeping me awake chatting to me until a very late hour.

After a short but sound sleep, I awoke at an early hour well refreshed,
and pushed on eleven miles to St. Clairsville, through a fine, well
improved, and well inhabited country, which was still hilly, but the
ridges were neither so steep nor so high, as they are in general at
this side of Chilicothe.

I stopped at Thompson’s stage inn, where Mrs. Thompson who was very
civil, prepared me a good breakfast.

St. Clairsville, or Newelstown, as it is more frequently improperly
called, is the capital of Belmont county, and is pleasantly situated on
the point and top of the highest hill within sight, from whence twelve
or fourteen miles of ridges and woods may be seen in every direction,
some of them across the Ohio, which I was now again approaching. The
town is only about four years old, and already contains eighty good
houses, including several stores and taverns. It has a court-house
and gaol, and altogether it has the greatest appearance of wealth and
business of any town between Chilicothe and itself. There are several
Quakers, settled in the neighbourhood, who are a snug, wealthy and
industrious people, and who enhance the value of real property in a
wide extent around the focus of their settlements.

Leaving St. Clairsville at eleven o’clock, I joined a footman named
Musgrave, who was going to Morgantown in Virginia, to collect money to
pay off some incumbrances on his lands below Limestone. He was a plain
man, but an intelligent, expeditious and economical traveller, whose
company shortened the road to Wheeling. It is a well settled country
and a fine road, the first six miles from St. Clairsville. We then
descended a long hill into the river bottom of Indian Wheeling, where
we came to a good grist {211} and saw mill. Keeping down that fine
little mill river five miles to its confluence with the Ohio, we forded
it five times in that distance.

On the banks of the Ohio is a new town called Canton, laid out by
Mr. Zane last year, which has now thirteen houses. We here crossed
a ferry of a quarter of a mile to Zane’s island, which we walked
across, upwards of half a mile, through a fertile, extensive, and well
cultivated farm, the property of Mr. Zane, some of whose apples, pulled
from the orchard in passing, were very refreshing to us, while we sat
on the bank nearly an hour awaiting the ferry boat. At last the boat
came, and we crossed the second ferry of another quarter of a mile to
Wheeling.

Here my fellow traveller took leave of me, purposing to go five or six
miles further ere night, though it was now five o’clock, and we had
already walked upwards of thirty miles since morning.




CHAPTER XXXV

 Economy of my late fellow traveller--Proceed towards Washington--Fine
    view of Wheeling and the Ohio--Lose my road--Get right again by
    descending a precipice--A fine valley with several handsome seats
    and mills--Stop at Mr. Eoff’s--A well regulated family--Little
    Wheeling creek--An obliging traveller--Roney’s point--Beautiful and
    picturesque country--Alexandria or Hardscramble--M’Crackan’s--Good
    effects of temperance and cleanliness in travelling.


I stopped at Knox’s inn, where I asked for some beer, not daring to
drink wine or spirits. They had none, so I walked out to a small
house where I had observed on a sign _Beer and Cakes_. On entering
{212} I found Musgrave making a hearty meal on a cent roll and a pint
of beer. He appeared as glad to see me again as if we had been old
acquaintances, and had been long parted, and was easily prevailed on
to make a second libation with me to the prosperous termination of our
journies, in that humble, but wholesome and refreshing beverage. I then
returned to Knox’s, where I supped and slept. Next morning at dawn, I
took a plunge in the river, and after breakfast, finding my strength
invigorated and my spirits renovated by the cold bath, I continued
my journey on foot by the most direct road to Washington, instead of
awaiting for the stage according to my first intention, as it had to go
ten miles out of the direct road to deliver the mail at Charlestown.

I set out at half past nine o’clock, and soon gained the top of the
hill immediately over Wheeling, from whence there is a handsome bird’s
eye view of that town, Zane’s island in fine cultivation, the two
ferries across the Ohio, and the village of Canton beyond; while on
the left the Ohio is seen winding among hills five or six miles below,
and the view is bounded in that direction, by one ridge rising beyond
another to a great distance. Turning round on the narrow ridge over
which the road leads, I had Wheeling creek directly under me at the
foot of a precipice, it running in such a manner as to make the scite
of the town with the hill behind, almost a peninsula, between it and
the Ohio.

I had proceeded about a mile, when meeting a traveller, of whom I
inquired, I found I had taken a wrong road, in consequence of which I
had to descend a steep precipice on my right, letting myself down with
my hands from one tree to another, to the bottom. Here I got into the
right road, which follows the meanders of the creek up a fine valley
that has been settled about thirty years, and is now in a state of
excellent cultivation.

{213} At two miles from Wheeling I passed a very handsome house, a fine
farm, and a mill of a Mr. Woods on the left. Here I could not help
being struck with the difference of appearance between this wooden
house painted white, with green jalousie window shutters and red roof,
and the stone and brick houses of Ohio and Kentucky, much in favour of
the former, however better in reality the latter may be. A mile farther
I passed Mr. Chaplin’s fine merchant mill, and about a mile and a half
beyond that, where the valley narrows, I observed on the left, some
very remarkable large loose rocks, which seem to have fallen from a
rocky cliff which impends above.

Half a mile beyond this, I stopped at a Mr. Eoff’s neat cottage and
good farm, where every thing had an air of plenty and comfort. Four
or five genteel looking young women were all engaged in sedentary
domestick avocations, and an old lady served me with some milk and
water which I had requested, after which I resumed my walk.

A mile up the side of the creek brought me to Mr. Shepherd’s mill,
and elegant house of cut stone.[149] Here the creek forks and the
road also, one of the forks called Big Wheeling coming from the S. E.
and the right hand road leading along it to Morgantown; the left fork
called Little Wheeling, which forms Mr. Shepherd’s mill race, coming
from the eastward, and my road towards Washington leading along it,
through a narrow valley with small farms, wherever a bottom or an easy
declivity of the hills would permit.

I was here overtaken by a man on horseback, who very courteously
insisted on my riding his horse, while he walked above a mile. He was
a county Tyrone man in the north of Ireland, settled twelve years in
America, the last six of which has been in this neighbourhood, where he
cultivated a farm with good success. Indeed industry and sobriety is
all {214} that is necessary in any part of the United States, to the
westward of the mountains, to insure a comfortable independence in a
very few years.

My companion stopping at a house on the road, I again proceeded alone
to M’Kinley’s tavern, four miles from Shepherd’s. I here left the
creek on the left, crossing a smaller one which falls into it from
the right, and I then ascended a steep and high hill, called Roney’s
point, from its being the point of a ridge, and first owned by one
Roney. It was above half a mile to the top of hill, from whence a fine,
thickly settled and well cultivated, but very hilly country broke on
my view, beautifully variegated with cornfields in tassel--wheat and
oat stubble--meadows--orchards--cottages--and stacks of grain and hay
innumerable, with a small coppice of wood between every plantation.

Descending a little, a mile and a half further brought me to William
Trusdale’s cottage, where I rested, and refreshed with some buttermilk
and water, and then went on through the same kind of country, four
miles from Trusdale’s, to the Virginia and Pennsylvania boundary
line, half a mile beyond which I entered the village of Alexandria. A
gust approaching fast I stopped about half an hour at John Woodburn’s
tavern. This village is named from a Mr. Alexander, the proprietor of
the soil, and is nicknamed Hardscramble, either from the hilly roads
by which one arrives at it, or from the difficulty experienced by the
first settlers to obtain a subsistence. It contains about a dozen
houses and cabins, a meeting house, and three taverns, but it does not
seem to thrive.[150]

After the gust I proceeded six miles through a very fine country,
charmingly variegated, but hilly, to M’Crackan’s tavern. The rain had
rendered the road so slippery, that I could travel but slowly, so that
it was almost dark when I arrived there.

{215} I found another traveller in the house, who was going from the
western part of Massachusetts near Albany, to the western part of
Virginia, as an agent to dispose of some large tracts of land there,
owned by some people in Albany. Having got some thickened milk for
supper, and bathed my feet in cold water, I had a fine night’s rest.

I would not mention so often my mode of living and treating myself
while on this journey, only to shew the good effects of temperance
and cleanliness, which enabled me, though in so warm a season, to
travel either on foot or on horseback, without fatigue or injury to my
constitution.


FOOTNOTES:

[149] This was the home of Moses Shepherd, son of one of the most
prominent pioneers of this region. For a sketch of his career, see
Harris’s _Journal_, vol. iii of this series, p. 348, note 35.--ED.

[150] On the origin of the name Alexandria, and the early history of
the town, see Harris’s _Journal_, vol. iii of this series, p. 348, note
33.--ED.




CHAPTER XXXVI

 Fine morning--Clement’s tavern--Washington--Go on in the stage--Meet
    an acquaintance--Canonsburgh--Morganza--Colonel Plummer’s--Coal
    Hill--Frightful road--Charming views--Monongahela ferry--Arrive at
    Pittsburgh.


Thursday, twenty-first August, I walked on with the first dawn of a
fine morning, nothing being wanting to render it delightful, except
the carrol of the winged inhabitants of the woods, which throughout
this whole country is very rare. I stopped to rest a few minutes at
Clement’s tavern, five miles on the road, where I found a number of
young men and women up, and drest decently, and even genteelly, though
so early; indeed many of them had the appearance of not having been
in bed all night. On inquiry I learned that there had been a wedding
here last night, which had occasioned such a concourse of young people.
Several of the males joined {216} the landlord in civilly pressing
me to take my morning dram of bitters with them, and they were not a
little astonished at my excusing myself, and requesting in lieu, a
little milk and water.

Wishing to arrive in Washington in time to join the stage for
Pittsburgh, I walked very fast, on a good road, through a pleasant but
hilly country, and got to M’Cammont’s tavern, as the family were rising
from breakfast.[151] The table was however soon replenished with plenty
and variety, to which I did ample justice from the excellent effect on
my appetite, of early rising, and a ten miles’ walk.

Having a little time before the stage would depart, I walked through
the town, and was much pleased with it. Washington is surrounded by a
fertile, well cultivated, and well inhabited country, rather hilly,
but the hills not very steep. The town occupies a hill itself, and
consists of one main street, intersected at right angles by four
shorter ones, the whole containing one hundred and seventy-five
dwelling houses, a good brick court-house and a stone gaol adjoining;
two meeting houses, one of brick for Presbyterians, and an old one
of logs for Methodists; a neat masonick lodge of stone and lime, and
a small market house. There are several stores and taverns, and on
the whole it is a thriving town, and a pleasant residence for either
trader, mechanick or private man, the inhabitants being a spirited and
polished people, mostly descendants from the northern Irish.

At noon I left Washington in the stage, having the pleasure of a
fellow traveller in my old acquaintance Dearborn, who was returning to
Pittsburgh after an excursion to Washington for the purpose of taking
some likenesses. His anecdotes of domestick and social occurrences at
Pittsburgh during my absence, beguiled the time pleasantly, and we were
in Canonsburgh, without being sensible of the seven {217} miles between
Washington and it. The road leads mostly along Chartier’s creek,
crossing it three times in that distance. We stopped at Westbay’s
excellent tavern, where is also the post office. They were making
preparations for dinner, which (having breakfasted so late) we declined
partaking of, and amused ourselves with a walk through the town. It is
on the S. western declivity of a steep hill, having Chartier’s creek at
the bottom. It contains eighty-eight houses, of different descriptions,
exclusive of the college, which is a plain stone edifice, much out of
repair, with a cupola belfry. There is also a small market house, but
the town does not seem flourishing; indeed was it not for the college,
it would probably soon go to decay, in favour of its more successful
neighbour Washington.[152] The most striking thing I saw here was my
landlord’s garden, which is both good and handsome, being laid out
with taste, abounding in a variety of the best culinary vegetables,
and having some very pleasant shady bowers, where the student, or man
of leisure, sheltered from the noonday sun, and inhaling the fragrance
of the surrounding aromatick plants, might luxuriantly roam into the
realms of fancy.

Two miles from Canonsburgh, we passed Morganza, the seat of general
Morgan, on the left. It is a long and narrow frame building, with
two ends lower than the body of the house, by way of wings--the
whole ornamented with green jalousie window shutters. The situation,
immediately on the road side, does not appear well chosen, especially
as the general apparently had a choice of a variety of situations, any
of which I should have supposed, would have merited a preference. One
is more apt to be struck with any thing like false taste in any work
which has been finished under the direction of a man of education and
refinement, which in addition to {218} liberal hospitality, is general
Morgan’s character, as well as that of his amiable and accomplished
lady.[153]

At Fosset’s, three miles further, we changed an excellent set of grey
horses, for as good a one of bays, owned by my friend M’Cullough of
Pittsburgh.--For four miles from Fosset’s to M’Cully’s, the country
is neither so fertile, nor so well cultivated as before, but it there
improves again a little, and is ornamented at two miles further, by
colonel Plummer’s fanciful but handsome house and fine farm on the
left. Rather exceeding three miles more brought us to the top of the
Coal hill, the descent of which to the Monongahela, almost a mile, is
so steep that two of the wheels of the stage wagon had to be locked,
and I frequently wished myself out of it, but it was impossible to
stop to get out, so I comforted myself with the reflection that no
unfortunate accident had yet happened to the stages on this hill, which
giving me courage, I was enabled to enjoy the views so inexpressibly
fine, which are perpetually varying, as the road winds down the hill.

From a bird’s eye view on the top, the town of Pittsburgh, Grant’s
hill, and even Boyd’s hill so much higher than Grant’s, appear as
a plain, enclosed by the Monongahela from the S. E. directly under
one, and the Allegheny meeting it at a point below the town, and both
together forming the Ohio, which glides off majestically towards the N.
W.--keeping the course of the Monongahela rather than that of the more
rapid Allegheny, which flowing into it at a right angle from the N. E.
is seen several miles upwards in that direction, with some beautiful
islands about three miles above Pittsburgh. Descending the hill, the
Monongahela gradually opens more on the right from its breadth assuming
the appearance of a beautiful lake surrounded by irregular hills, with
Mr. Beelen’s finely situated country house, shewing to great advantage,
at its upper end.

{219} When near the bottom of the coal hill, a sudden precipice on the
right, and a short turn of the road to the left, brought back our
thoughts home to ourselves, but the well trained horses seeming to know
exactly where they should place their feet, soon removed us from the
object of terror, and without stopping, trotted directly with the stage
and us into the ferry flat, which was prepared to receive us--after
which, ten minutes sufficed to land us at Pittsburgh.


FOOTNOTES:

[151] William McCammant’s tavern, at the sign of the “Cross Keys,” was
first opened in 1801. An advertisement of early prices cited “dinner
and horse-feed, twenty-five cents; jurors and others attending court,
two dollars per week.”--ED.

[152] For the history of Canonsburgh and the college here mentioned,
see Harris’s _Journal_, vol. iii of this series, p. 347, note 31.--ED.

[153] Morganza was the home of Colonel George Morgan, a prominent
character in Western land history. He was originally a member of
a large firm of Philadelphia Indian traders, and made journeys to
Pittsburg as early as 1768. In the treaty of Fort Stanwix of that year,
his firm was one of those reimbursed for losses by a grant of Western
lands, out of which grew the Indiana Company, for which Morgan during
many years acted as agent and secretary, vainly seeking confirmation
of the grant by the Virginia legislature and later by Congress. At
the outbreak of the Revolution, Morgan was made Indian agent for the
Western Department, with headquarters at Pittsburg. At the close of
the war, removal to Princeton, New Jersey, brought Morgan into contact
with college life, his services as trustee being much appreciated. In
1788-89, he was engaged in a scheme for settling a colony on Spanish
territory at New Madrid, but several trips to New Orleans on this
business failed to effect a satisfactory arrangement. Morgan next
turned his attention to the estate in Washington County, Pennsylvania,
which had recently been bequeathed to him by his brother. Thither he
removed in 1796, and at Morganza occurred the dinner at which Burr was
charged with treasonable remarks against the authority of the United
States. The death of Morgan occurred at Morganza in 1810.--ED.




CHAPTER XXXVII

 Pittsburgh--Panorama round it.


At the conflux of the rivers Allegheny and Monongahela, the French when
possessed of Canada, had the principal of a line of posts extending
from that country round the back frontier of the British settlements,
for the purposes of awing the aborigines and commanding their trade,
and to prevent the spreading of the Anglo-American colonization
beyond these limits. It was named Fort Du Quesne, after the Marquis
Du Quesne, a governour of Canada. It was always kept well garrisoned
by European troops, and in time of war, was never without an army
of auxiliary Indians encamped under its protection. This continual
state of preparation cost the British much blood. In the year 1757,
general Grant, with a regiment of eight hundred Scotch highlanders,
arrived without discovery on a hill immediately commanding the fort,
since named after him Grant’s hill, where thinking himself secure of
conquest, he alarmed the enemy by beating the reveille at sunrise.
The garrison, without awaiting {220} to be attacked in the fort,
which would not have been tenable, and reinforced by a strong body of
Indians, stole out under the high river banks, and divided itself into
two parties, one of which took the route upwards of the Monongahela,
and the other that of the Allegheny, until they flanked Grant’s little
army, when profiting by the woods, with which the hill and surrounding
country were then covered, they suddenly attacked it in flanks and
rear, cut to pieces, tomahawked and scalped the greater number, while
the rest with the general saved their lives by becoming prisoners to
the French, on whose mercy they threw themselves.[154]

The following year 1758, was productive of greater slaughter to the
British, by the defeat of general Braddock’s army of five thousand
men, being surprised by the French and Indians in great force on the
banks of the Monongahela, when within eight miles of Fort Du Quesne,
then a wilderness, but now well inhabited and ornamented on the very
spot by the handsome brick house and fine farm of judge Wallace.[155]
The general and three-fourths of the army, were shot down from behind
trees, while in the parade of European tacticks, presenting four bold
open fronts to the enemy, being formed in a hollow square. The few who
escaped, did so under the protection of Col. since Gen. Washington’s
provincial militia, who by opposing a similar warfare against the
savage enemy, covered the retreat of the few remaining regulars.

Some time afterwards in the same year, the fort capitulated to general
Forbes, and the river Allegheny having made some encroachment on it
by undermining its banks, a new and more extensive fortification of
a square with four bastions was erected by general Stanwix just
above, and named Fort Pitt, in honour of the then prime minister
of England.--It cost government £60,000 sterling. A garrison {221}
was kept here for several years after the peace of 1763, but it was
withdrawn on the commencement of the disputes between Britain and
America, and the inhabitants of the surrounding settlement, which had
not yet taken the form of a town, occasionally forted themselves for
defence against the Indians, and so late as the year 1781, there were
only a few small houses and cabins on the banks of the two rivers,
under protection of the fort, a noble row of brick and stone houses
built by the French Indian traders on the banks of the Allegheny,
having been undermined and swept away by that river since 1766, in the
memory of some of the present inhabitants of Pittsburgh.[156] After
1781, Pittsburgh began to improve slowly, and in 1784 a gazette[157]
was established in it.[158] In 1783 Fort Pitt was repaired by general
Irwin, but was afterwards neglected, and a stoccado fort called Fort
Fayette, was erected on the bank of the Allegheny, half a mile above
Fort Pitt.[159] Fort Fayette is now used as a barrack and place of
deposit of stores, but is useless for either offence or defence. The
surrounding grounds were handsomely laid out, planted, and ornamented
by general Wilkinson[160] some years ago, and considering the smallness
of the field he had to work on, shew much taste, and are an ornament to
the eastern and principal approach to the town, in which situation the
fort stands.

The town or borough, as it now is, has increased in a very rapid degree
both in size and consequence since the last ten years. The plan, by
its being designed to suit both rivers, is rather irregular, Penn and
Liberty streets which are very fine streets, running parallel to the
Allegheny, while the principal {222} part of the town is parallel and
at right angles with the Monongahela.

In seventeen streets and four lanes or alleys in March 1808, were two
hundred and thirty-six brick houses, of which forty-seven were built in
the last twelve months, and three hundred and sixty-one wooden ones,
seventy of which were added last year. There are fifty stores generally
well assorted and supplied, and which divide the retail business of the
town and adjacent country in tolerably good proportion. Some however
have rather a superiority of custom, the owner of one of which, a man
of veracity, assured me that he received in ready money, one market
day with another, one hundred and fifty dollars, and that he had once
taken one hundred and eighty besides the credit business. Either as
a trading or a manufacturing town, I think Pittsburgh for situation,
is not excelled in the United States, and that it bids fair to become
the emporium of the centre of the federal union. There are 24 taverns,
four or five of which are excellent ones, and the rest of every grade.
An account of the manufacturies and tradesmen was taken in the fall
of 1807, the result of which was--A cotton manufactury, having a mule
of 120 threads, a spinning jenny of 40 threads, 4 looms and a wool
carding machine under the same roof; a glasswork for green glass on the
opposite side of the Monongahela, and another just erected for white
glass on the town side of the same river; two breweries, where are made
excellent beer and porter, equal to any in the United States; an air
furnace, where all sorts of hollow iron utensils are cast; four nail
facturies, at one of which one hundred tons of cut and hammered nails
are made annually; seven coppersmiths, tinplate workers and japanners;
one wire weaving and riddle factury; one brass foundery; six saddlers
and harness-makers; two gun-smiths; two tobacconists; one bell-maker;
three tallow-chandlers; {223} one brush maker; one trunk-maker; five
coopers; thirteen weavers; ten blue-dyers; one comb-maker; seven
cabinet-makers; one turner in brass, ivory and wood; six bakers;
eight butchers; two barbers; six hatters; two potteries of earthen
ware; eight straw bonnet-makers; four plane-makers; six milliners;
twelve mantua-makers; one stocking weaver; two book-binders; four
house and sign painters; two portrait painters; one mattress-maker;
three wheelwrights; five watch and clock-makers and silversmiths; five
bricklayers, five plasterers; three stonecutters; eight boat, barge
and ship builders; one pump-maker; one looking-glass plater and maker;
one lock-maker; seven tanners; two rope-makers; one spinning wheel
maker; seventeen blacksmiths; one machinist and whitesmith; one cutler
and tool-maker; thirty-two house carpenters and joiners; twenty-one
boot and shoemakers; five windsor chair-makers; thirteen tailors;
one breeches-maker and skin-dresser; twelve school-masters; four
schoolmistresses; four printing offices; six brick yards; three stone
masons; two book-stores; four lumber yards; one maker of machinery for
cotton and woolen manufacturies; one factury for clay smoking-pipes;
and one copper-plate printing press.

The tradesmen above mentioned are all master-workmen, who employ more
or less assistants in proportion to their business.

Besides the fine situation of Pittsburgh for manufacturies, another
circumstance encourages much the settlement of industrious tradesmen
in it, which is the cheap, plentiful and various market. There are two
market days weekly, and the common prices of necessaries are,--good
beef, from 2½ to 4 cents per lb., pork 3½, mutton 4, veal 3, venison
3 to 4, bacon 6 to 10, butter 10 to 18, cheese 8 to 12, hogs lard 8,
{224} fowls each 10 to 12, ducks 25, geese 33 to 37, turkies 40 to 75,
flour $1 75 to 2 50 per cwt. or from 3 50 to 4 50 per barrel, corn 33,
potatoes 40, turnips 18, Indian meal 40 cents per bushel, onions a
dollar, white beans a dollar, dried apples and peaches a dollar, and
green 40 cents per bushel, eggs 10 to 18 cents per dozen, fresh fish
3 to 6 cents per lb., maple sugar, very good, made in the country, 10
to 12 cents a pound, whiskey 30 to 40 cents per gallon, peach brandy
75 to 80, beer 5 to 7 dollars a barrel, and cider 3 to 4, 700 country
linen 40 cents, and tow cloth 33 cents per yard;[161] but salt comes
high, being generally 2½ dollars per bushel, which is occasioned by
its being supplied from the Onondago salt works, in the upper part of
the state of New York, from whence it is brought by water with a few
portages, through part of Lake Ontario and Lake Erie, and down French
creek and the Allegheny to Pittsburgh, where it is a great article of
trade, giving employment to several keel boats on the river.

The situation of Pittsburgh is unrivalled with respect to water
communication, with a great extent and variety of country; and would
also be so in beauty was it not hemmed in too closely by high and steep
hills. It may notwithstanding be called a beautiful situation, as there
is a variety in those very hills, which all differ in appearance from
each other, and admit between them fine vistas up the Allegheny and
Monongahela, and down the Ohio, which river is formed by the confluence
of the other two, and which after flowing eleven hundred miles through
all its sinuosities, is itself lost in the Mississippi, at a point
about W. S. W. from Pittsburgh, from whence eleven hundred miles more
carry that chief of Atlantick rivers (whether with regard to unimpeded
navigation, or the immense body of water discharged through it) into
the ocean below New Orleans, in {225} about a south direction from its
confluence with the Ohio.

Standing on the point which was the scite of the old French Fort Du
Quesne, about the middle of the last century, and of which there is
now no vestige, and looking up the Allegheny to the northward, a chain
of hills, with a narrow bottom partially cultivated between the hills
and the river, bound the view on the left, while two beautiful little
islands, the uppermost one cultivated, and owned by a Mr. Wainwright
from England, terminate the water prospect in front.

Turning gradually to the right, the eye looks over the dry ditch and
old ramparts of the former English Fort Pitt, which succeeded Fort Du
Quesne, beyond which are a few straggling apple and pear trees, being
all that remains of the king’s and artillery gardens, planted and
cultivated by the first British garrison, and now laid out in streets
and town lots. Looking onward up the bank of the river, which is about
thirty feet above the surface, when the water is lowest, houses, trees,
and cultivated fields, are seen for three miles to Mr. Davis’s large,
and handsomely situated house, about half a mile beyond the race
course, and the same distance above Wainwright’s island. Hills covered
with wood, rising amphitheatre-like behind Davis’s, terminate the view
that way.

Turning a little more to the right, the eye follows the Quarry hill,
which is a ridge of from two hundred and fifty to three hundred feet
perpendicular height, crowned with lofty forest trees, under which is
a quarry of fine building stone, about half a mile long, with a good
wagon road along its whole length, from every part of which are most
charming views of the town and rivers, the cultivated sides of the hill
below, and the rich and luxuriant plain of a quarter of a mile wide
between the foot of the hill and the Allegheny, {226} with the post and
stage road from Philadelphia and the eastern states running through the
middle of it two miles from Hill’s tavern to the town, which in its
most compact part, with the belfry of the court-house, the Episcopal
brick octagonal church, a handsome Presbyterian brick meeting house,
and the roofs of the dwelling houses intermixed with lombardy poplars
and weeping willows, the eye still approaching itself, is the next
object.

A little to the right of the last line of view, Grant’s hill, with
its sloping sides and regular ascent to about one hundred feet
perpendicular height, covered with delightful short green herbage,
seems to obtrude itself into the town, affording to the citizens a
charming mall or promenade both for exercise and air. It lies within
the bounds of the borough; but it is to be hoped that general O’Hara,
who is the proprietor, will with true patriotism, reserve it for its
present use, and not permit one of the greatest ornaments of Pittsburgh
to be destroyed, by having it cut down and levelled for building lots.
Its belonging to a man of such extensive property is a fortunate
circumstance for the inhabitants, as that may prevent its being changed
from pleasure to profit, to which it might be more liable was it owned
by some needy person. Was the general to fence it in, terrace it, which
could be done at a small expense, ornament it with clumps of evergreens
and flowering shrubs, and erect a few banqueting houses in the forms
of small temples according to the different orders of architecture, it
would be one of the most beautiful spots, which not only America but
perhaps any town in the universe could boast of.

Grant’s hill is united to the Quarry hill, by a plain at first flat,
then rising gradually, over the middle of which on a very commanding
situation, is seen the handsome cottage of Mr. Tannehill, a continental
officer during the revolutionary war, who now enjoys {227} the evening
of life in the shade of the finest fruit trees of this climate, of his
own planting, for which rational and delightful employment as well as
horticulture in general, he has a good taste.[162]

Still continuing to turn to the right, the next prominent object is the
house of Mr. James Ross, an eminent lawyer, which he purchased from a
Mons. Marie, a Frenchman, who had taken great pains to cultivate a
good garden, which Mr. Ross does not neglect, and in which, on the top
of an ancient Indian tumulus or barrow, is a handsome octangular summer
house of lattice work, painted white, which forms a conspicuous and
pleasing object.

From Mr. Ross’s, which is immediately behind the top of Grant’s hill,
there is a gradual slope to a small but elevated plain, called Scotch
or Scots hill, from its being the residence of several families from
the northern Hebrides. It is improperly called a hill as it is no
higher than the general level of the town, which is about forty feet
above the low water mark of the Monongahela, to the bank of which river
this plain extends, from the foot of the hill below Mr. Ross’s house.

A valley commencing at the upper extremity of this plain, divides
Grant’s and Grove hills (the latter the seat of Mr. Tannehill before
mentioned) from Boyd’s hill, which equally steep and twice as high as
Grant’s, is the most striking feature in the view, {228} still looking
to the right over the principal part of the town. This valley is
watered by a little rivulet called Suke’s[163] run, which flows past a
pleasant retired situation, said to have been formerly inhabited by one
Anthony Thompson, long before Pittsburgh was a town. A few indigenous
plum trees are the only vestiges of its former occupancy. The rivulet
passes Mr. Watson’s large brick house, supplies a tanyard owned by
general O’Hara, then crossing the Monongahela road, falls into that
river at the ship-yards, at a low inlet between Scots hill plain and
Boyd’s hill, where several vessels have been built, some as large as
four hundred tons. The coal which supplies Pittsburgh with fuel, is
brought on wagons from a distance not exceeding two miles, and is
delivered in the town at six cents a bushel.

Boyd’s hill was formerly named Ayre’s hill, from a British engineer
of that name who wished to have it fortified, but it changed its
appellation about twenty years ago in consequence of one Boyd, a
printer, hanging himself there on a tree. It was first cleared and
cultivated by a Highland regiment, which built huts on it, no remains
of which now exist.

The view from Boyd’s hill exclusive of the Allegheny, which is veiled
by Grant’s and the Quarry hills, is as fine as that from the Quarry
hill exclusive of the Monongahela, shut out from it by Boyd’s, and
is more uninterrupted down the Ohio to Robinson’s point and Brunot’s
island, almost three miles.

The Monongahela is then the next object to the right of Boyd’s hill.
It is four hundred and fifty yards wide, and is seen to the N. E. in a
vista of about two miles, when it takes a sudden bend to the eastward,
and disappears behind the hills, at the extremity {229} of this vista,
at the Two mile run, Mr. Anthony Beelen, a respectable merchant, has
a neat ornamented cottage, opposite the bend, on the left bank, which
commands a view of the reach above, as well as of that below to the
town. The intermediate bank between Mr. Beelen’s country seat and
Pittsburgh, has a pleasant road along it, which is one of the principal
avenues to the town, and which is surmounted by the ridge, of which
Boyd’s hill is the termination, whose round regular bluff verges into a
bare rock, crowned with trees, impending romantically over the road in
the whole distance from Two mile run.

Still turning to the right the opposite bank of the Monongahela
presents to the eye a fine level bottom well cultivated and settled,
with a ridge of hills half a mile behind it, which gradually approach
the river until immediately opposite the town, where rising abruptly
from the water’s edge to the height of about five hundred feet
perpendicular, they take the name of the Coal hill, from that fuel
being formerly dug out of it for the use of the town, before pits were
opened more convenient on this side of the river. It still supplies
the coal for general O’Hara’s glass-works, which, with the houses of
the overseer and workmen, forms a village at the foot of the hill on
the river bank, immediately opposite the point where the spectator
stands, who has now gone round rather more than half a circle since his
first view up the Allegheny. Window glass of a good quality and quart
bottles, are made at this manufactury, which with a rival one at New
Geneva, about sixty miles up the Monongahela, supplies all the western
country.

The face of the Coal hill is very steep, and on the summit, major
Kirkpatrick[164] has a farm house and barn, which seem to hang
immediately over Pittsburgh, to a traveller approaching from the north
{230} eastern avenues. The bird’s eye view from thence of the town and
rivers is very striking. Every street, lane, alley, house and object,
however minute (if visible to the eye) being delineated under the
spectator, as a plan on paper, the inequalities of surface not being
discernible, and even Grant’s hill being flattened to a plain on the
optick sense.

Continuing to turn to the right from our original centre, the point,
we see the Ohio for about two miles, with Elliot’s mills on Saw-mill
run below Coal hill on the left, an amphitheatre of lower hills about
Chartier creek and M’Kee’s farm to Brunot’s island in front, and
Robinson’s point and Smoky island at the mouth of the Allegheny on the
right.

The eye still keeping its circuit, looks over a fine level of three
thousand acres, once intended as the scite of a town to be called
Allegheny, to be the capital of the county, but the situation of
Pittsburgh being very properly judged more convenient, it has
eventually become the seat of justice of the county, and the most
flourishing inland town in the United States. A chain of irregular
hills, not so steep, but nearly as high as Coal hill, bounds this
level, and completes the Panorama.

The plan of Pittsburgh by being designed to suit both the rivers, is
in consequence irregular. The ground plot is a triangle. Some of the
streets run parallel to each river, until they meet at the point,
and they again are intersected by others at right angles, meeting at
acute angles in the centre. At one of those acute angles at a corner
of Wood street, is the Episcopal church, an octagonal building of
brick not yet finished, and nearly opposite on the other side of the
same street is a Presbyterian meeting-house of brick also, well built,
neat, and roomy. In a remote street near Grant’s hill, is a small old
framed Presbyterian meeting-house, used by a sect a little differing
from the other, and the German Lutherans {231} have a small house of
worship near it--at the N. E. end of the town is a very good brick
meeting-house for a large congregation of Covenanters--and without
the town, near Mr. Woods’s handsome seat, a handsome brick church is
building for a society of Roman Catholicks. The court-house in the
centre of the town is the only publick building which remains to be
mentioned.

It is well built of brick, is spacious, and convenient for judiciary
purposes, and serves for a place of worship for the Episcopal society
until their own church is finished, as also occasionally for itinerant
preachers to display their oratory--and the jury room up stairs is
sometimes converted into a very good temporary theatre, where private
theatricals are practised in the winter by the young gentlemen of the
town.

A respectable society of Methodists meet at each others houses, not
having yet any house for that express purpose.

From the number of religious houses and sects, it may be presumed that
the sabbath is decently observed in Pittsburgh, and that really appears
to be the case in a remarkable degree, considering it is so much of a
manufacturing town, so recently become such, and inhabited by such a
variety of people.

Amusements are also a good deal attended to, particularly concerts
and balls in the winters, and there are annual horse races at a
course about three miles from town, near the Allegheny beyond Hill’s
tavern.[165]

On the whole let a person be of what disposition he will, Pittsburgh
will afford him scope for the exercise of it.


FOOTNOTES:

[154] Cuming’s historical narratives are not as accurate as his
observations. This defeat of Grant occurred in 1758, and but a third of
the troops engaged were killed and captured--540 out of 813 returning
to Bouquet’s camp at Loyalhanna. See Parkman, _Montcalm and Wolfe_
(Boston, 1885), ii, pp. 150-154.--ED.

[155] General Braddock’s defeat occurred July 9, 1755; the site of the
battle-field is now covered by the manufacturing town of Braddock,
Pennsylvania.

Judge George Wallace, whose farm comprised the field of battle when
Cuming wrote, was an eminent citizen of Allegheny County. First
appointed presiding judge of Westmoreland (1784), then of Allegheny
County (1788), he acted as magistrate until his death (1814). Wallace
had not studied law, but held his position on account of being a large
landholder; his fairness and moderation, especially during the Whiskey
Rebellion, proving of great service to the settlements.--ED.

[156] Brackenridge’s Gazette Publications.--CRAMER.

[157] Published by Mr. John Scull, the first press established west of
the Allegheny mountains.--CRAMER.

[158] The publication of the Pittsburg _Gazette_ was begun July 29,
1786, and continued for several years under great difficulties.
Sometimes the consignment of paper from Philadelphia failing to arrive,
it was printed on cartridge paper obtained from the commandant of the
fort. John Scull remained the owner and proprietor until 1818, when
he retired to Westmoreland County where he died ten years later. The
publication of the _Gazette_ has been continuous to the present day,
being now known as the _Commercial Gazette_.--ED.

[159] For note on Fort Fayette, see Michaux’s _Travels_, vol. iii of
this series, p. 32 note 12.

General William Irvine was a Scotch-Irish Revolutionary officer who
had been captured on the Canadian expedition (1776) and not exchanged
until two years later. Commissioned brigadier-general, he was sent by
Washington, at a critical juncture, to take command at Fort Pitt, and
there remained until peace was signed (1783). Thereupon he retired
to Carlisle, and after distinguished public services died in 1804.
Pennsylvania granted him a tract of land near Erie in return for his
services.--ED.

[160] The career of General James Wilkinson is as remarkable as
his character is despicable. His adroitness and power of inspiring
confidence maintained him in his intrigues, and gave him the
opportunity of playing a prominent part in early Western affairs. His
share in the Revolution was indicative of the man, he being concerned
in the Conway Cabal and other questionable movements. At the close of
the war, he migrated to Kentucky and engaged in mercantile business.
His commercial connection with New Orleans furnished the opportunity
for his intrigue with the Spaniards, whose paid agent he became, for
attempting to dismember the union. Returning to the army, he acted
as second in command under Wayne. Upon the latter’s death, he became
commander-in-chief, and after 1805 was appointed governor of Louisiana.
In this position he first embarked upon, and then betrayed the schemes
of Aaron Burr. Not able entirely to clear himself of suspicion,
Wilkinson was removed from his Western position at the outbreak of the
War of 1812-15; and after a futile and mismanaged campaign against
Montreal demanded an investigation by court-martial. This being
inefficiently conducted, Wilkinson was acquitted, but he soon (1815)
retired to extensive estates which he had acquired near the City of
Mexico, where he died ten years later.--ED.

[161] Ohio and Mississippi Navigator--sixth edition.--CRAMER.

[162] What adds to the beauty of Mr. Tannehill’s seat is, a handsome
grove of about two acres of young black oaks, north-west of his
dwelling, through the middle of which runs a long frame bowery, on
whose end fronting the road, is seen this motto, “1808, _Dedicated to
Virtue, Liberty and Independence_.” Here a portion of the citizens meet
on each 4th of July, to hail with joyful hearts the day that gave birth
to the liberties and happiness of their country. On the opposite side
of the road to the bowery, is a spring issuing from the side of the
hill, whose water trickles down a rich clover patch, through which is a
deep hollow with several small cascades, overhung with the willow, and
fruit trees of various kinds.--CRAMER.

[163] This rivulet derives its appellation from the circumstance of
a woman named Susan, nicknamed Suke, having either hung herself in
a thicket of plum trees here, or drowned herself in the run, about
thirty-five years ago.--CRAMER.

[164] Major Abraham Kirkpatrick, a Marylander by birth and a
Revolutionary officer, was one of the earliest settlers of Pittsburg. A
brother-in-law of John Neville, he aided the latter in his difficulties
with the insurgents in the Whiskey Rebellion. Nevertheless, he was
popular in his vicinity, and left a number of descendants who became
useful citizens.--ED.

[165] We are sorry to have it to acknowledge that _horse racing_,
contrary to an express law of the state, has been more or less
practised within the vicinity of this place a few years back, but
are pleased with the prospect of having it totally abolished by the
influence of its evident impropriety, danger, and wickedness, operating
on the minds of the more thoughtful and judicious.--CRAMER.




{232} _Notes made in descending the rivers Ohio and Mississippi in the
spring of 1808--from Maysville._




CHAPTER XXXVIII

 Columbia--Newport--Cincinnati--Port William--Louisville and the falls.


May 7th, at 8 P. M. departed from Maysville--8th, the Ohio is safe
and clear of obstructions from Maysville to the Little Miami river,
fifty-six miles.

Little Miami is a beautiful river, sixty or seventy yards wide, falling
into the Ohio on the right from the northward.

The village of Columbia just below, is beautifully situated on an
extensive bottom. Seven miles lower we passed on the left the village
of Newport, containing a large brick arsenal and magazine, the property
of the general government. It is just above the conflux of Licking
river, which is about one hundred yards wide. The banks of the Ohio
display a great sameness so far, they having a gentle slope, and rich
soil, thickly wooded and thinly inhabited.

We stopped at Cincinnati which is delightfully situated just opposite
the mouth of Licking river.[166]--This town occupies more ground,
and seems to contain nearly as many houses as Lexington. It is on a
double bank like Steubenville, and the streets are in right lines,
intersecting at right angles. The houses are many of them of brick, and
they are all in general well built, well painted, and have that air of
neatness which is so conspicuous in Connecticut and Jersey, from which
latter state, this part of the state of Ohio is principally settled.
Some of the new brick houses {233} are of three stories with flat
roofs, and there is one of four stories now building. Mr. Jacob Burnet,
an eminent lawyer, has a handsome brick house beautifully situated
just outside the west end of the town.[167] Cincinnati, then named
Fort Washington, was one of the first military posts occupied by the
Americans in the western country, but I observed no remains of the old
fort. It is now the capital of Hamilton county, and is the largest town
in the state.

After remaining at Cincinnati from three o’clock until half past five,
we then proceeded, passing Col. Suydam’s very handsome stone house with
piazzas and balconies, in the French West India style, three or four
miles below.

May 9th, having passed the Big Miami, the boundary between Ohio and
the territory of Indiana in the night, at seven in the morning we
were abreast of Big Bone Lick creek, so called from a skeleton of
the mammoth being found here.[168] This is fifty-nine miles below
Cincinnati. The tiresome sameness of the banks continued until noon
when being abreast of one Reamy’s, thirty-two miles further, the
settlements became thicker on the Kentucky side, and the river assumed
a more cheerful appearance. I observed some farms on the opposite shore
of Indiana, at one of which I was informed was a vineyard.

At three P. M. we stopped at Port William, delightfully situated
just above the embouchure of Kentucky river, which is from eighty
to a hundred yards wide. This is the capital of Gallatin county, and
contains twenty-one houses, many of which are of brick, but all rather
in a state of decay.[169] The lands appear good, but probably the
country is not in a sufficient state of improvement to admit of a town
here yet. Frankfort the capital of the state, is on the Kentucky, only
sixty miles above Port William.

{234} At four we gave our boats to the stream, and after floating all
night seventy-eight miles, past some islands and some thinly scattering
settlements, we rowed into Bear Grass creek, which forms a commodious
little harbour without current for Louisville, May 10th, at 9 A. M.

Louisville is most delightfully situated on an elevated plain to which
the ascent from the creek and river is gradual, being just slope enough
to admit of hanging gardens with terraces, which doctor Gault at the
upper, and two Messrs. Buttets at the lower end of the town have
availed themselves of, in laying out their gardens very handsomely
and with taste. From the latter, the view both up and down the river
is truly delightful. Looking upwards, a reach of five or six miles
presents itself, and turning the eye to the left, Jeffersonville, a
neat village of thirty houses, in Indiana, about a mile distant, is
next seen. The eye still turning a little more to the left, next rests
upon a high point where general Clark first encamped his little army,
about thirty years ago, when he descended the river to make a campaign
against the Indians, at which time Louisville, and almost the whole of
Kentucky was a wilderness covered with forests. The rapids or falls (as
they are called) of the Ohio, are the next objects which strike the
observer. They are formed by a range of rocks and low islands, which
extend across the river, the deepest channel through which is near the
Indiana shore, and has only six feet water, and that even very narrow
when the river is low. The fall here has been proved by a level to be
twenty-two inches and a half in two miles, from Bear Grass creek to
Shipping Port, which causes a velocity of current of about twelve miles
an hour in the channel. Clarksville, a new village in Indiana at the
lower end of the rapids, is next seen, beyond which Silver creek hills,
a moderately high and even chain, bound the view five or six miles
distant.[170] Continuing {235} to turn to the left, Rock island, and
the same chain of hills appearing over it, finish two thirds of a very
fine panorama. The town and surrounding forests form the other third.

Louisville consists of one principal and very handsome street, about
half a mile long, tolerably compactly built, and the houses generally
superiour to any I have seen in the western country with the exception
of Lexington. Most are of handsome brick, and some are three stories,
with a parapet wall on the top in the modern European taste, which in
front gives them the appearance of having flat roofs.

I had thought Cincinnati one of the most beautiful towns I had seen in
America, but Louisville, which is almost as large, equals it in beauty,
and in the opinion of many excels it. It was considered as unhealthy
which impeded its progress, until three or four years ago, when
probably in consequence of the surrounding country being more opened,
bilious complaints ceased to be so frequent, and it is now considered
by the inhabitants as healthy as any town on the river. There is a
market house, where is a very good market every Wednesday and Saturday.
The court-house is a plain two story stone building, with a square roof
and small belfry. There are bells here on the roofs of the taverns
as in Lexington, to summon the guests to their meals. Great retail
business is done here, and much produce is shipped to New Orleans.

May 11.--At four P. M. Mr. Nelson, a pilot, came on board and conducted
the boats through the falls, by the Kentucky schute, and in forty-five
minutes we moored at Shippingport, where we found commodore Peters’s
boat and officers, and captain Nevitt’s gun boat, all bound to New
Orleans in a few days.

{236} Shippingport is a fine harbour, there being no current in it, but
the banks are rather low, so as to be inundated at very high floods.

Mr. Berthoud, who has a handsome house here, is connected with Mr.
Tarascon of Louisville in one of the finest rope-walks in the United
States. It is twelve hundred feet long, of which seven hundred and
fifty are covered.[171]

A little above the port is a mill wrought by the Ohio, the race being
formed by a small bank, which has been cut through purposely.


FOOTNOTES:

[166] The Licking was explored by Harrod’s party in 1774, and five
years later Bowman’s unfortunate expedition rendezvoused at its mouth.
The next year (1780) George Rogers Clark in his raid against the
Chillicothe Indians built two blockhouses on the site of Cincinnati;
and again in 1782 started from hence against the Miamis. In 1785-86,
the Federal Government built Fort Finney above the mouth of the
Great Miami, where Clark held a treaty in the latter year. After the
erection of the Northwest Territory, and the opening of the district
to landholders, John Cleves Symmes bought a million acres between the
two Miami rivers, and towns were soon formed. Matthias Denman (1788)
purchased of Symmes for two hundred dollars a square mile opposite the
mouth of the Licking, and forming a partnership with Robert Patterson
of Lexington, and John Filson, a Kentucky schoolmaster, founded a town
which the latter entitled Losantiville, “town opposite the mouth of the
Licking.” This fantastic compound was retained until Governor St. Clair
(1790) changed the name to Cincinnati in honor of the military society.
Fort Washington, government post, built in 1790, protected the infant
settlement.

Meanwhile Symmes had platted a town on the Great Miami, which he
called North Bend, and desired to have established as the capital of
the new Northwest Territory. Columbia was also laid out at the mouth
of the Little Miami, and the three towns contended for leadership
until Cincinnati was made capital of the Territory in 1800, and began
to flourish apace. The garrison was removed from Fort Washington to
Newport barracks in 1804. The residence of Colonel Suydam has given its
name to Suydamsville, a western suburb of Cincinnati.--ED.

[167] Jacob Burnet, born in New Jersey in 1770, was of Scotch descent.
When a young man of twenty-six he came to the Northwest Territory to
practice law, and settled at Cincinnati. His public services were as
member of the territorial council (1798), as supreme judge of the
State, and as United States Senator. He was the author of _Notes on
the Early Settlement of the Northwestern Territory_ (Cincinnati,
1847), a valuable pioneer history. Burnet’s home was the scene of
noteworthy hospitality, all prominent visitors to the region being
there entertained. A portion of his estate is now a public park for
Cincinnati, known as Burnet Woods.--ED.

[168] For note on Big Bone Lick, see Croghan’s _Journals_, vol. i of
this series, p. 135, note 104.--ED.

[169] Port William is now called Carrollton, and is the county-seat of
Carroll County, erected out of the limits of Gallatin in 1838.--ED.

[170] On the early history of Louisville, see Croghan’s _Journals_,
vol. i of this series, p. 136, note 106.

Clarksville was established (1783) on the grant of lands given by
the Virginia legislature to the soldiers who had served in Clark’s
campaign in the Illinois. Much was expected of this new town opposite
the Falls of Ohio; but it never flourished, and gradually declined
before its more prosperous neighbor, Jeffersonville (founded in 1802),
and has now become but a suburb of the manufacturing town of New
Albany. General George Rogers Clark had a home on a point of rocks near
Clarksville.--ED.

[171] Shippingsport--now a portion of the city of Louisville--was
incorporated under the name of Campbellville in 1785. The name
was changed when James Berthoud became its proprietor in 1805.
Shippingsport was an important starting place for traffic west and
south from Louisville, until the construction of the Louisville and
Portland Canal in 1832.

The Tarascons were brothers who came from France to Kentucky, early
in the nineteenth century. They built large mills at Shippingsport
(1815-19), and were known as enterprising and public-spirited
citizens.--ED.




CHAPTER XXXIX

 Doe run--Blue river--Wheatly’s--Conversation with Wheatly about the
    Indians--Squire Tobin’s--Horse machinery boat.


May 12.--At six A. M. proceeded down the river, and seven miles
from Shippingport, passed Sullivan’s ferry, from whence a road is
traced one hundred and twenty miles to Post Vincennes, the capital
of Indiana.[172] The current of the Ohio now carried us five miles
an hour, passing settlements on the right every mile with a range of
picturesque hills behind them.

Twenty-five miles from the falls, we passed Salt river, about eighty
yards wide, on the left, with some neat settlements on each side of
it, and also on the opposite bank of the Ohio, which latter bank is
overhung by some very high rocky precipices. Twelve miles further
on the left, we stopped at Doe run to purchase necessaries. This is
a small creek, but has a thriving little settlement of half a dozen
families on its {237} banks. The price of provisions is here as we had
found it generally, viz. Butter 12½ cents per lb., eggs 6¼ cents per
dozen, milk 6¼ cents per quart, fowls 12½ cents each, and turkies in
proportion to their size from 25 to 50 cents each. At half past six, P.
M. we passed Buck creek on the right, five miles from Doe run, and half
a mile lower on the same side, we stopped and moored at an excellent
landing under a house on the bank.

May 13th, at dawn of day we went on, passing at two miles and a half,
on the right, a very remarkable rocky cliff overhanging a cabin and
small settlement. We passed Indian creek and two islands in twelve
miles more, and then came to Blue river, on the right, fifty yards wide.

The river hills, which are generally a considerable distance behind
the banks below Louisville, now approached quite close on each side.

On each side of Blue river is a settlement, the uppermost one three
years old, but very little advanced, has a large family of children
and their mother almost naked. Nothing apparently flourishing except
a large garden of onions, for a few of which with a pound or two of
Indian meal to make leaven, the woman would fix no price, but thinking
herself badly paid with a quarter of a dollar, I gave her an eighth
more to satisfy her. The lower settlement was began two years ago by
one Thomas Davidson, from Carlisle, in Pennsylvania, and must become
a fine property if Mr. Harrison, the present governour of Indiana,
succeeds in establishing, according to his intentions, a ship yard on
Blue river, which is a most eligible situation for it. He has already
erected a grist and saw mill about eight miles up it,[173] where it is
joined by a rivulet, which rising suddenly from a spring in a prairie
seventeen miles above the mill, tinges the water from its source to its
discharge into the Ohio with a clear blue colour, which however {238}
does not effect its goodness, it being of an excellent quality.

Blue river itself is navigable for batteaux forty miles.

An old Indian trace, now the post road from Louisville to Vincennes,
crosses it at twenty-five miles from its mouth.

The distance from the governour’s mills to Vincennes, is about one
hundred miles.

After leaving Blue river we went sixteen miles without any settlement,
and then passed a small one on the left. The river having narrowed in
that distance to less than a quarter of a mile wide, and very crooked,
with gently sloping hills rising from the banks. Ten miles lower, on
the left, we came to the next settlement just began, and three miles
further passed Flint island, one mile long, with the hull of a small
ship on the upper end, stranded there in descending last winter from
Marietta.

When about three miles below Flint island, the wind blowing very fresh
ahead and causing a good deal of sea, we stopped on the right shore
abreast of Wheatly’s cabin, and moored. Wheatly comes from Redstone in
Pennsylvania, and first lived on the opposite bank in Kentucky, where
he owned one thousand acres of land, which he was obliged to part with
from following boating and neglecting farming. He has now three hundred
and forty acres here, from six of which that he has cleared, he raised
last year five hundred bushels of corn. He told us that a small tribe
of Miami Indians were encamped on Oil creek about two miles distant. On
asking if they were troublesome, he replied with much sang froid, still
splitting his log, “We never permit them to be troublesome, for if any
of them displease us, we take them out of doors and kick them a little,
for they are like dogs, and so will love you the better for it.” This
doctrine might suit an athletick, active man, {239} upwards of six feet
high and in the prime of life, like Wheatly, but I question whether the
Indians would submit to it from people less powerful. He informed us,
that they frequently get the Indians together, take their guns, knives
and tomahawks from them, then treat them with whiskey until they are
drunk, when they set them by the ears, to have the pleasure of seeing
them fight, at which they are so awkward (like young bears, according
to his phrase) that they scuffle for hours without drawing blood, and
when their breath is exhausted they will sit down quietly to recruit,
and then “up and at it again.”

We picked some fine wild greens (lamb’s quarters) and got some milk,
and next morning,

May 14th, proceeded. At eight miles below we passed some good
settlements on the right, and a ferry, from whence a trace is opened
seventy-five miles, to Vincennes. Leaving Sinking creek on the right,
and a large double log cabin and very fine settlement on the left, ten
miles more brought us to squire Tobin’s on the Indiana side, where we
landed in the skiff. The squire has opened a fine farm in the three
years he has been from Redstone, Pennsylvania.

A keel of forty tons came to the landing at the same time we did. She
was worked by a horizontal wheel, kept in motion by six horses going
round in a circle on a gallery above the boat, by which are turned two
cog wheels fixed each to an axle which projects over both gunwales of
the boat, one before and the other behind the horizontal wheel. Eight
paddles are fixed on the projecting end of each axle, which impel the
boat about five or six miles an hour, so that she can be forced against
the current about twenty miles a day. One Brookfield, the owner, who
conducts the boat, had her built last year about two miles above
Louisville, in Kentucky, and then went in her to New Orleans, from
whence he was now {240} returning, disposing of a cargo of sugar from
place to place in his ascent. He expected to get home and to commence
a second voyage in about a month. Seven horses had died during the
voyage, and he had only two remaining of the first set he had commenced
with.


FOOTNOTES:

[172] For the early history of Vincennes, see Croghan’s _Journals_,
vol. i of this series, p. 141, note 113.--ED.

[173] The career of William Henry Harrison, ninth president of the
United States, belongs to general history. Harrison was appointed
governor of Indiana Territory upon its erection in 1800, and took
much interest in its development. While making his home at Vincennes,
he became interested in the Blue River settlement, which was begun
about 1802 by Squire Boone (brother of Daniel) and his son Moses. The
settlement and Harrison’s mills were at a place now called Wilson’s
Springs in Harrison County, Indiana.--ED.




CHAPTER XL

 Scuffletown--A good military position--Green River--Scarcity
    of stone--A hospitable Scotchman--Town of Henderson--Cotton
    machine--Diamond island--Banditti and their extermination--Former
    dangers in descending the rivers.


We continued to float down the river the remainder of the 14th and all
night, fifty miles--passing Deer creek, Windy creek, Anderson’s river
and Crooked creek, and some islands--the banks having settlements at
every mile or two. The shores of the river now became low, the hills
being lost in the distance on each side.

May 15th.--Having passed two more islands, and some new farms, in nine
miles and a half, we came to a string of six or seven good looking
settlements, called Scuffletown, on the left, and two miles and a half
farther on the right, we observed two new settlements, a small creek,
and a bluff rock, serving as a base to an elevated conick promontory,
terminating a wide reach, and narrowing the river so by its projection,
as to make it an eligible situation for a fortified post. Seven miles
from hence we came to Green river on the left, about two hundred yards
wide. It falls into the Ohio from the eastward, and at the junction the
latter river, changing its direction from S. W. to west, the view of it
upwards is lost, {241} and looking back to the eastward, Green river
appears to be a continuation of the Ohio. Several new settlements are
forming on the banks of Green river, the climate and soil being well
adapted to the culture of cotton, but the former is esteemed unhealthy,
the inhabitants being very subject to intermittent fevers. A skiff
boarded us here from an ark astern, which was bound to the mouth of
the Ohio, from whence the people on board were to proceed in a keel up
the Mississippi to St. Genevieve in Upper Louisiana.[174] A few miles
farther we spoke two large loaded canoes bound upwards.

Nine miles below Green river, we passed a point of rocks on the
right--the only stone on the river between this and Shawanee town, a
distance of seventy miles, on which account the section it lies in was
bid up at publick sale to ten dollars an acre, though the usual price
is two. Three miles from hence we left Blair’s ferry on the right,
where a road crosses from Kentucky, fifty-four miles to Vincennes. A
mile more brought us to Patterson’s on the right, where we landed in
the skiff. Mr. Patterson is a Scotchman from Aberdeen, which he left
before the revolutionary war, going to Grenada in the West Indies,
where he managed the noble estate of Harvey’s plains (noted for its rum
of much superiour quality) nine years. The liver complaint forced him
to remove from thence to New York, where he married and resided several
years. He brought his family from thence to this place last year. Mrs.
Patterson thought they were to find a country abundant in every thing,
with little or no trouble, but now, being undeceived by experience, she
jocularly remarked, that if the current of the river would change, she
would most gladly seize the occasion to return immediately to where she
came from. This family is settled in a much more comfortable manner
than the generality of new planters. There were some neighbours on a
{242} visit, and the table was covered for supper in a very neat and
plentiful manner, which, with much hospitality, we were pressed to
partake of, but the boats having passed, we could not stop.

Five miles from hence we stopped and moored for the night at
Henderson or Redbank. This is the county town of Henderson county in
Kentucky.[175] It contains about twenty wooden houses and cabins,
including two stores and two large tobacco warehouses. At a squire
M’Bride’s we saw a patent machine, which gins, cards and spins cotton,
all at once, by one person (it may be a child) turning a wheel. Eight
threads are spun at once, and wound upon eight spools. It is ingenious
and simple, and occupies no more room than a small table.

About five hundred hogsheads of tobacco are shipped here every year,
and the place now begins to thrive a little, since several wealthy
people have settled in the neighbourhood, and on Green river. From the
opposite bank a road leads to Vincennes, which is only fifty-two miles
distant.

May 16th.--Proceeding, we went to the right of Redbank island, and at
twelve miles passed a ferry on the right, and entered the right hand
channel of Diamond island--there being settlements every half mile.
Nothing can be more beautifully situated than this fine island. It is
four miles and a half long, and contains eight hundred acres of the
finest land, well timbered.

It takes its name from its form, which is that of a rhombus or diamond.
The river is above a quarter of a mile wide all around it, and above
half a mile wide below in a straight reach of two or three miles.
It is owned by a Mr. Alvis, a Scotchman, of great property in South
Carolina, who bought it about two years ago of one Wells, the original
locator. Alvis has a negro quarter, and near one hundred and fifty
acres of land cleared on the Kentucky shore opposite {243} the island.
This used to be the principal haunt of a banditti, from twenty to
thirty in number, amongst which the names of Harper, five Masons, and
Corkendale, were the most conspicuous. They attacked and plundered
the passing boats, and frequently murdered the crews and passengers.
At length the government of Kentucky sent a detachment of militia
against them. They were surprised, and Harper, one of the Masons and
three or four more were shot, one in the arms of his wife, who escaped
unhurt though her husband received eleven balls. The rest dispersed,
and again recruiting, became under Mason the father, the terrour of
the road through the wilderness between Nashville in Tennessee and the
Mississippi Territory. About four years ago, two of the gang, tempted
by the reward of five hundred dollars for Mason dead or alive, offered
by the governour of Mississippi Territory, shot him, carried his head
to Natchez, received the promised reward, which they expected, and a
more just one which they did not expect, being both found guilty of
belonging to the gang, and being executed accordingly.[176]

It is impossible to convey even a faint idea of the dangers to which
people descending those rivers were liable, until within a few years
that the population of the banks has become general.

The Indians could not brook the intrusion of the whites on the
hunting grounds and navigable waters which they had been in habits
of considering as their own property from time immemorial, and
partly through revenge for the usurpation of their rights, partly to
intimidate others, but chiefly from the hopes of booty, all the nations
in the neighbourhood of the Ohio, the Cumberland, the Tennessee, and
the Mississippi, and even those more remote, used to send detachments
of warriours and hunters to lie in wait in the narrow passes, and do
their utmost to cut off all travellers, in which they often succeeded
through {244} their expertness with the rifle; and it is not improbable
but some white desperadoes, under the appearance of Indians, were
guilty of atrocities of the same nature against their countrymen,
without the shadow of any of the excuses afforded to the aborigines.


FOOTNOTES:

[174] The original village of Ste. Genevieve was about three miles
south of the present Missouri town of that name. The exact date of
its founding is not known, but it was upon a mining grant given
to Regnault. A relic of a chimney found in 1881 bears the date
1732--possibly the first year of the settlement. The cession of
the Illinois to the English (1763) brought an accession of French
inhabitants; and in 1766, the Spanish ordered to Ste. Genevieve a
commandant and garrison. The earliest American inhabitants were John
and Israel Dodge, the latter being father of Governor Henry Dodge of
Wisconsin. The encroachment of the river (about 1784-85) caused the old
to be abandoned for the modern site.--ED.

[175] Henderson County was formed in 1798, being named in honor
of Colonel Richard Henderson of Transylvania fame. The great
ornithologist, John James Audubon, came to Henderson in 1812; but it
was not until many years later that his work made him known to the
scientific world.--ED.

[176] The tales of the robberies and atrocities of the Harpe and Mason
banditti are numerous, differing largely in details. Cuming’s account
seems to be fairly accurate. See Claiborne, _Mississippi_ (Jackson,
1880), pp. 225-228.--ED.




CHAPTER XLI

 Highland creek and good settlements--Carthage--Wabash island--Wabash
    river--Shawanee town--Saline river and salt works--Remarkable
    cavern--The Rocking cave.


Seven miles below Diamond island, we came to Straight island, and nine
miles further, to Slim island, which is three miles and a half long,
with a settlement on its upper end.

Highland creek, the mouth blocked up with drift, is three miles below
Slim island on the left, and opposite on the Indiana shore are three
families of Robinsons, the first settlements in that distance. There is
a fine landing just below Highland creek, and two beautiful settlements
owned by Messrs. Cooper and Austin, and a framed house rented by a Mr.
Gilchrist, a temporary settler.[177] We observed several boats laid
up here, which had lately brought families down the river, which are
all settled in the neighbourhood, and a mile lower down, we passed the
scite of an intended town called Carthage, but where there is yet but
one house.

Two miles and a half below, we entered the Indiana sound of Wabash
island, in a west direction, leaving the Kentucky sound (forming a
beautiful coup d’œil with a small island and clump of trees directly
in the centre) running S. W. on the left.

{245} We would have gone through the latter sound, but for a wish to
see the Wabash,[178] the largest river in Indiana, and upon which its
capital Vincennes is seated. Its mouth is overlapped from three miles
above to two below by Wabash island, which is five miles long and
contains three thousand acres.

The Wabash is a noble river, about three hundred yards wide at its
mouth, but its banks are so low, that they are overflowed up to the
eves of two cabins which are just above its embouchure, at every high
fresh. The inhabitants had their cattle all drowned last spring, and
were obliged to save themselves by going some miles from the banks.
The cabin next the point where the two rivers join, is large and has a
tavern sign.

About three miles below the end of Wabash island, leaving Brown’s
island, and the two uppermost of the Three Sisters on the right, we
rowed to the Kentucky shore, and moored for the night just under the
cabin and well improved farm of Peter Lash, who has been here four
years, and informed us, that there was a fine populous settlement of
several families behind us.

May 17th, we cast off at the dawn of day, passed the third Sister, and
a lake on the right which extends about ten miles into the country, and
abounds in fish, and at seven miles from Lash’s we rowed in among some
trees, and moored and landed at Shawanee town.[179]

This was formerly an Indian settlement, the only vestiges of which
now remaining, are two barrows for interment at the upper end, and
a growth of young trees all around the town, which evince that the
land has been cleared, at no great distance of time back. The town
now contains about twenty-four cabins, and is a place of considerable
resort on account of the saline salt-works about twelve miles distant,
which supply with salt all the settlements within one {246} hundred
miles, and I believe even the whole of Upper Louisiana.

The United States’ general government having reserved to itself the
property of the scite of this town, the salt licks, and all the
intermediate tract from Saline river, the inhabitants have no other
tenure than the permission of the governour of the territory to reside
there during his pleasure, so they make no comfortable improvements,
although they appear to be in a very prosperous situation from their
trade; so much so, that they say, that it would immediately become
one of the most considerable towns on the river, if they could
purchase lots in fee simple.--There were several trading boats at
the landing, and more appearance of business than I had seen on this
side Pittsburgh. We walked to the Indian burying ground, where we saw
several human bones, and picked up some of the small copper bells, used
by the natives as ornaments, which had been interred with them, and
which had become as thin and light as paper.

May 18th, proceeded nine miles to Saline river on the right. This is a
fine stream, fifty yards wide, navigable for keels and batteaux. The
salt-works are about twenty miles up it with the turnings of the river,
though not over ten in a right line. There is a considerable hill on
the right, on the lower bank of this river where it joins the Ohio.

Five miles from Saline river, we passed Battery rock, which is a
very remarkable point of rocks on the right, with a cabin and farm
beautifully situated on the hill above. We now began to see river
hills again, rising to a moderate height, from a little behind the
banks on each side.

Four miles from hence we left Flinn’s ferry, where is a very handsome
settlement on the left. Three miles and a half farther brought
us to the upper end of Rocking cave island, just above which the
river is {247} a mile wide, and in another mile we saw on the right
Casey’s farm, where the landing abounds in curious loose limestone
petrifactions. Two thirds of a mile from hence, we thought we saw the
Rocking cave, when we observed a cavern forty-five feet deep, three
wide, and nine high, the floor ascending gradually to the vault at the
end, where it is terminated by a petrifaction, like the hanging pipes
of a large organ.--The sides which meet at the top, forming a Gothick
arch, are of limestone, with several large nuclei of flint, which seem
to have been broken off designedly to smooth the inside of the cavern.

Rowing along shore with the skiff, we were soon undeceived as to that’s
being the Rocking cave, as a third of a mile lower down, one of the
finest grottos or caverns I have ever seen, opened suddenly to view,
resembling the choir of a large church as we looked directly into it.
We landed immediately under it and entered it. It is natural, but is
evidently improved by art in the cutting of an entrance three feet wide
through the rock in the very centre, leaving a projection on each hand
excavated above to the whole breadth of the cavern, the projections
resembling galleries. The height of the mouth is about twenty-two,
and that of the rock about thirty. It is crowned by large cedars and
black and white oaks, some of which impend over, and several beautiful
shrubs and flowers, particularly very rich columbines, are thickly
scattered all around the entrance. The length (or depth) of the cavern
is fifty-five paces, and its breadth eleven or twelve.

Standing on the outside, the appearance of some of the company at the
inner end of the cave was truly picturesque, they being diminished
on the eye to half their size, and removed to three times their real
distance.

On advancing twenty paces within, the path or aisle gradually ascending
has risen to the level of the {248} galleries, and from thence to the
end is a spacious apartment of the whole breadth, ascending until it
meets the rocky vault, which is of bluish grey limestone. Twelve paces
from the end is a fissure in the vault, to which is fixed a notched
pole, to serve for a ladder, but the cavity has the appearance of
nothing more than a natural cleft in the rock, large enough to admit
the entrance of a man, and perhaps extending some little distance
sloping upwards.[180]

There is a perpendicular rocky bluff, just opposite the lower end of
Cave island, about two hundred yards above the cave, where the river
narrows to less than half a mile wide, forming a fine situation for a
fortification.


FOOTNOTES:

[177] This was the settlement that later developed into Uniontown,
Kentucky, a place of some importance on the lower Ohio.--ED.

[178] On the early history of the Wabash River, see Croghan’s
_Journals_, vol. i of this series, p. 137, note 107.--ED.

[179] On the early history of Shawneetown, see Croghan’s _Journals_,
vol. i of this series, p. 138, note 108.--ED.

[180] This is now known as Cave-in-Rock, from a large cave (Hardin
County, Illinois) in which a band of robbers hid themselves (1801).--ED.




CHAPTER XLII

 Extortion of a countrywoman--Robins’s ferry--Lusk’s ferry--Cumberland
    river--Smithland--Tennessee river--Fort Massack--Wilkinsonville--
    Ship Rufus King--Enter the Mississippi.


Half a mile below the Rocking cave, we stopped at Perkins’s finely
situated farm, where we feasted on some good buttermilk, and bought
some eggs, but on demanding the price, and being asked by Mrs. Perkins,
with an unblushing face, four times as much as we had hitherto paid for
the first article, and twice as much as had ever been demanded for the
second, we left the eggs with her, and paid her for the buttermilk, not
however without telling her, how much she ought to be ashamed to take
such advantage of the necessities of travellers.

The right hand shore now consisted of bold projecting rocks, with
openings at intervals, in all of {249} which are settlements, while the
Kentucky side being low is more thinly inhabited.

After passing Hurricane island, we came to Robins’s ferry on the right,
from whence is a road one hundred and thirty miles to Kaskaskias on the
Mississippi, and about two miles lower on the left, we observed one of
the finest situations we had seen on the Ohio; it was a hill occupied
by a house and farm, opposite to a rectangular bend of the river
which forms a beautiful bason. Three miles further on the right, is a
hill with a remarkable face to the river, of perpendicular rocks of a
reddish colour, below which, is a settlement and a creek, from whence
Cumberland river is twenty-five miles distant.

Four miles more brought us to Lusk’s ferry on the right, now owned by
one Ferguson from South Carolina, who has a very good house and fine
farm, with Little Bay creek joining the Ohio just above. The main
road from Kentucky to Kaskaskias crosses here--the latter distant one
hundred and fifteen miles.

Having passed the Three Sisters’ islands and Big Bay creek on the
right, at eleven miles below Ferguson’s, we rowed in to the right
shore, and moored to some trees, where we had a heavy storm all night,
with thunder, lightning, and hail as large as pigeons’ eggs.

May 19th, proceeding at early dawn, we passed Stewart’s island on the
left, and the first of Cumberland islands on the right, just below
which, we observed on the Indian shore, the fine settlement we had seen
from Big Bay creek, nine miles.

With some difficulty and much rowing, we forced our boats into the
narrow Kentucky channel of the second Cumberland island a mile below
the first, as otherwise we should not have been able to have got into
Cumberland river, which the second island overlaps. A mile more brought
us to the entrance of {250} Cumberland river, across which we rowed,
and moored at the little town of Smithland.

This town contains only ten or a dozen houses and cabins, including
two stores, two taverns and a billiard table. There appears to be
only about thirty acres of land, badly cleared and worse cultivated
around it, though the soil seems very good, but as it is as yet
only considered as a temporary landing to boats bound up and down
Cumberland river, the inhabitants depend on what they can make by their
intercourse with them, and are not solicitous to cultivate more land
than will suffice to give them maize enough for themselves and their
horses. They live chiefly on bacon, which comes down the two rivers,
and corn, being too indolent to butcher or to fish, though they might
raise any quantity of stock, and doubtless the Ohio and Cumberland both
abound in fish. On the whole it is a miserable place, and a traveller
will scarcely think himself repaid by a sight of the Cumberland, for
stopping at Smithland.

There is an old Indian burying ground at the upper end of the town,
where we found several human bones enclosed in thin flattish stone
tombs close to the surface.

Cumberland river mixes its clear blue stream with the muddy Ohio at an
embouchure of about three hundred yards wide. It is the principal river
for business in the state of Tennessee, Nashville the capital, being
situated on its banks, one hundred and eighty miles by water, and one
hundred and thirty by land, above its conflux with the Ohio.[181]

May 20th, having parted with Mrs. Waters, her charming daughter, and
the rest of her family, they being destined for Nashville, we cast off,
and rowed out of Cumberland river against the back water of the Ohio,
whose true current we took on turning the lower point of Cumberland.

{251} The first three miles brought us abreast of Lower Smithland, a
settlement on the left--having passed all Cumberland islands, and after
dropping four miles lower, the sea ran so high, from a strong wind up
the river, that we judged it prudent to row in and moor under a low
willow point on the left, where we remained all the rest of the day and
night, and had a violent tornado at midnight, of thunder, lightning,
wind, and rain.

May 21st, we proceeded early this morning and at five miles and a half
passed the mouth of Tennessee river joining the Ohio on the left from
the S. E. and nearly half a mile wide. There are two islands at its
mouth, the second one of which has an abandoned settlement on it. In
the next eleven miles we passed three small settlements on the right,
being the first habitations we had seen below Lower Smithland, and at
noon, a mile below the last, we rowed into the mouth of a creek at the
bottom of a bay, which forming an eddy, makes a fine landing for boats
of all sizes, on the right shore.

On fastening the boat, a corporal from Fort Massack just above the
landing, came on board, and took a memorandum of our destination,
&c. We landed, and approaching the fort, we were met by lieutenant
Johnston, who very politely shewed us the barracks, and his own
quarters within the fort, in front of which is a beautiful esplanade,
with a row of Lombardy poplars in front, from whence is a view upwards
to Tennessee river, downwards about two miles, and the opposite shore
which is one mile and a quarter distant--the Ohio being now so wide.

The fort is formed of pickets, and is a square, with a small bastion
at each angle. The surrounding plain is cleared to an extent of
about sixty acres, to serve for exercising the garrison in military
evolutions, and also to prevent surprise from an enemy. On the
esplanade is a small brass howitzer, and a {252} brass caronade two
pounder, both mounted on field carriages, and a centinel is always kept
here on guard. The garrison consists of about fifty men. Some recruits
were exercising. They were clean, and tolerably well clothed, and were
marched in to the barrack yard preceded by two good drums and as many
fifes. The house of captain Bissel the commandant, is without the
pickets.

Though the situation of Massack is pleasant and apparently healthy,
it is a station which will only suit such officers as are fond of
retirement, as there is no kind of society out of the garrison, and
there are only a few settlements in the neighbourhood, which supply it
with fresh stock.

This was one of the chain of posts which the French occupied between
Detroit and Orleans, when that nation possessed Canada and Louisiana.
It had fallen into ruin, but it has been reconstructed by the United
States’ government. It keeps its original name, which it derived from a
massacre of the French garrison by the Indians.[182]

At one o’clock we proceeded on our voyage, and in half a mile turning a
little to the right with the river, we entered a very long reach in a
W. N. W. direction, and at three miles passed a new settlement on the
right where the river is two miles wide, with a very gentle current.
The current carried us twelve miles and a half farther, without our
perceiving any signs of inhabitants on either shore, we then rowed in
to Cedar Bluffs or Wilkinsonville, where we found an eddy making a fine
harbour, and an ascent up a low cliff by sixty-two steps of squared
logs, to a beautiful savannah or prairie of about one hundred acres,
with well frequented paths through and across it in every direction.
We observed on it, the ruins of the house of the commandant, and the
barracks which were occupied by a small United States’ garrison, until
a few years ago, when it was removed {253} to Fort Massack; some time
after which, about two years ago, the buildings were destroyed by the
Indians.

Though our harbour here was a good one, yet we did not spend our night
with perfect ease of mind, from the apprehension of an unwelcome visit
from the original lords of this country, recent vestiges of whom we had
seen in the prairie above us.

May 22nd, at day break we gladly cast off, and at a mile below
Wilkinsonville, turned to the left into a long reach in a S. W. by S.
direction, where in nine miles farther, the river gradually narrows to
half a mile wide, and the current is one fourth stronger than above.
Three miles lower we saw a cabin and small clearing on the right shore,
apparently abandoned, five miles below which we landed in the skiff,
and purchased some fowls, eggs, and milk, at a solitary but pleasant
settlement on the right just below Cash island. It is occupied by one
Petit with his family, who stopped here to make a crop or two previous
to his descending the Mississippi, according to his intention on some
future day.

Two miles and a half from hence we left Cash river, a fine harbour for
boats about thirty yards wide at its mouth, on the right, and from
hence we had a pleasant and cheerful view down the river, in a S. S.
E. direction five miles to the Mississippi.

First on the right just below the mouth of Cash river, M’Mullin’s
pleasant settlement, and a little lower a cabin occupied by a tenant
who labours for him. A ship at anchor close to the right shore, three
miles lower down, enlivened the view, which was closed below by colonel
Bird’s flourishing settlement on the south bank of the Mississippi.[183]

We soon passed and spoke the ship, which was the Rufus King, captain
Clarke, receiving a cargo of tobacco, &c. by boats down the river from
Kentucky, and intended to proceed in about a week, on a voyage {254} to
Baltimore. It was now a year since she was built at Marietta, and she
had got no farther yet.

At noon we entered the Mississippi flowing from E. above, to E. by S.
below the conflux of the Ohio, which differs considerably from its
general course of from north to south.


FOOTNOTES:

[181] For the early history of Nashville, see Michaux’s _Travels_, vol.
iii of this series, p. 61, note 103.--ED.

[182] On the history of Fort Massac, and the origin of its name, see
Michaux’s _Travels_, vol. iii of this series, p. 73, note 139.

Captain Daniel Bissell, the commandant at this point, had welcomed Burr
on his descent of the Ohio two years before Cuming. Bissell joined the
army from Connecticut as lieutenant, in 1794, being made captain in
1799. During the War of 1812-15, he became brigadier-general and served
on the northern frontier, winning a slight skirmish at Lyons Creek. He
resigned from the army in 1821, and died in 1833.--ED.

[183] The Missouri point opposite Cairo was acquired by an American
from the Spanish government, but no settlement seems to have been made
thereon until 1808, when Abraham Bird, who had several years previous
removed from Virginia to Cairo, crossed over and built a home at this
place, thereafter known as Bird’s Point. This property was in the hands
of the Birds for three generations.--ED.




CHAPTER XLIII

 River Mississippi--Iron banks--Chalk bank--Remarkable melody of
    birds--Bayou St. Jean--New Madrid--Delightful morning--Little
    Prairie--An Indian camp--Mansfield’s island.


We had thought the water of the Ohio very turbid, but it was clear
in comparison of the Mississippi, the two rivers being distinctly
marked three or four miles after their junction. The Ohio carried us
out almost into the middle of the Mississippi, so that I was almost
deceived into thinking that the latter river ran to the westward
instead of to the eastward; by the time however that we were near
midchannel the Mississippi had gained the ascendancy, and we were
forced to eastward with encreased velocity, its current being more
rapid than that of the Ohio. We soon lost sight of the labyrinth of
waters formed by the conflux of the two rivers, and quickly got into a
single channel, assuming gradually its usual southerly direction. We
now began to look for Fort Jefferson, marked in Mr. Cramer’s Navigator
as just above Mayfield creek on the left, but not seeing either we
supposed they were concealed by island No. 1 acting as a screen to
them.[184]

At fifteen miles from the Ohio, we observed a fine new settlement on
the right, with the boats moored {255} at the landing which had brought
the family down the river.

Five miles lower we passed the Iron banks on the left. These are very
remarkable, being a red cliff near the top of a high ridge of hills
about a mile long, where the river is narrowed to little more than a
quarter of a mile wide.

From the Iron banks a fine bay of a mile in breadth is terminated by
the Chalk bank, which is a whitish brown bluff cliff, rising from the
water’s edge, surmounted by a forest of lofty trees. Having passed some
other islands, we made a harbour for the night on Wolf island just
opposite Chalk bank, about three miles below the Iron banks.

May 23d.--A steady rain did not prevent our proceeding this morning. We
found the river generally from half to three quarters of a mile wide,
and the navigation rather intricate on account of the number of islands
and sand-bars, which gave us some trouble to keep clear of. The rain
ceased about three o’clock, when it cleared up calm and hot. At 4
o’clock we passed Island No. 10, on the right. The singing of the birds
on this island exceeded every thing of the kind I had ever before heard
in America. Notes resembling the wild clear whistle of the European
black birds, and others like the call of the quail, or American
partridge, were particularly distinguishable among a wonderful variety
of feathered songsters. The island probably bears some vegetable
production peculiar to itself, which attracts such uncommon numbers of
small birds.

At seven, P. M. we rowed into Bayou St. Jean, on the right, at
the upper end of New Madrid, to which settlement it serves for a
harbour,--having only advanced about fifty miles this whole day. We
found here several boats bound down the river.

New Madrid contains about a hundred houses, much scattered, on a fine
plain of two miles square, {256} on which however the river has so
encroached during the twenty-two years since it was first settled, that
the bank is now half a mile behind its old bounds, and the inhabitants
have had to remove repeatedly farther back. They are a mixture of
French Creoles from Illinois, United States Americans, and Germans.
They have plenty of cattle, but seem in other respects to be very poor.
There is some trade with the Indian hunters for furs and peltry, but of
little consequence. Dry goods and groceries are enormously high, and
the inhabitants charge travellers immensely for any common necessaries,
such as milk, butter, fowls, eggs, &c. There is a militia, the officers
of which wear cockades in common as a mark of distinction, although the
rest of their dress should be only a dirty ragged hunting shirt and
trowsers.--There is a church going to decay and no preacher, and there
are courts of common pleas and quarter sessions, from which an appeal
lies to the supreme court at St. Louis, the capital of the territory of
Upper Louisiana, which is two hundred and forty miles to the northward,
by a wagon road which passes through St. Genevieve at 180 miles
distance.--On account of its distance from the capital, New Madrid has
obtained a right to have all trials for felony held and adjudged here
without appeal.

The inhabitants regret much the change of government from Spanish
to American, but this I am not surprised at, as it is the nature of
mankind to never be satisfied.[185]

We had observed no settlements between the Ohio and New Madrid except
one new one before mentioned.

May 24th.--At eight, A. M. we left New Madrid, and after toiling until
three, P. M. against a fresh southerly wind, when we had advanced only
eleven miles, we were forced to shore on the left, and hauling through
some willows which broke off {257} the sea, moored and remained there
until four A. M.

May 25th--when we were awoke to the enjoyment of a delightful morning,
by the enchanting melody of the birds saluting the day, while the horn
of a boat floating down the far side of the river, was echoed and
re-echoed from both shores, to all which we added, with fine effect,
some airs on the clarionet and the octave flute. When we hauled out
of the willows, several boats were in sight, which added much to the
cheerfulness of the morning.

Having passed several islands, we saw on the right the settlement of
one Biddle, being the first on the river since four miles below New
Madrid.

Four miles lower we landed in the skiff at the town of Little Prairie
on the right, containing twenty-four low houses and cabins, scattered
on a fine and pleasant plain inhabited chiefly by French creoles
from Canada and Illinois. We were informed that there were several
Anglo-American farmers all round in a circle of ten miles. We stopped
at a tavern and store kept by a European Frenchman, where we got some
necessaries.

Every thing is excessively dear here, as in New Madrid--butter a
quarter of a dollar per pound, milk half a dollar per gallon, eggs a
quarter of a dollar a dozen, and fowls half to three quarters of a
dollar each.

We found here five lumber loaded boats owned by Mr. Holmes of
Meadville, which had left Pittsburgh about the 20th of March. Three of
them had been stove, and they were going to unload and repair them.

Continuing to coast along in the skiff, while our ark fell down the
river with the current, we landed about a mile below Little Prairie,
at an Indian camp formed by the crews of three canoes, all Delawares
except one Chocktaw. They had sold their peltry {258} and were now
enjoying their whiskey, of which they had made such liberal use as to
be most of them quite drunk. They did not seem to like our intrusion,
but on our demanding whiskey from them, and drinking with them, they
became more social.

Two miles below the Indian camp we again overtook our boat from which
we had been absent the last fourteen miles, and seven miles lower, met
a canoe with two Indians, who wanted to sell us skins.--After passing
several islands as far as No. 21, of Mr. Cramer’s Navigator, in twelve
miles farther, we came to one not mentioned in the Navigator, which
we named Mansfield’s island, from one of our passengers who was the
first to land on it. It was a beautiful little island, and the evening
being far advanced, we were tempted to moor at its west point, to
some willows on a fine hard sand, but we had nothing to boast of our
choice of situation, as myriads of musquitoes effectually prevented our
sleeping all night.


FOOTNOTES:

[184] Fort Jefferson was built by George Rogers Clark in the spring of
1780, in order to protect the Illinois settlements, and maintain the
Virginian claim to this part of the territory. Clark planned a town
here to receive his own name (Clarksville); but few settlers went out,
as the post was distant and much exposed. In 1781, Fort Jefferson was
besieged by the Chickasaws under the lead of a half-breed, Alexander
Colburn. Timely assistance arriving, the siege was raised, but the fort
was abandoned in June of the same year.--ED.

[185] New Madrid was originally the site of a Delaware Indian town,
at which two Canadians, named LeSueur, established a trading-house in
1780. Eight years later Colonel George Morgan attempted to obtain a
large concession from the Spanish government to establish an American
colony at this point, with rights of local self-government. Morgan
brought out the first installment of colonists, but the arrangements
at New Orleans which were to confirm his title to the grant failed of
completion. The Spanish authorities sent Lieutenant Pierre Foucher,
with a garrison of ninety men, to command here in 1789. A settlement
of a heterogeneous character, as Cuming indicates, gradually grew up
around the fort. The later history of New Madrid is chiefly concerned
with the disastrous earthquakes of 1811-12, and the congressional grant
of relief for the settlers.--ED.




CHAPTER XLIV

 Visit from Indian warriours--Our apprehensions--Indian manners and
    customs not generally known--First, Second and Third Chickasaw
    Bluffs, and several islands.


May 26.--We drifted forty-three miles, between five o’clock, A. M.
and five o’clock P. M.--passing several islands and sand-bars, and
had got between island No. 31 and Flour island, when an Indian canoe
from the left shore boarded us with a chief and three warriours of the
Shawanee nation.[186] They had their rifles in the boat, and their
knives {259} and tomahawks in their belts, and it is my opinion that
their intentions were hostile had they seen any thing worth plundering,
or found us intimidated--but by receiving them with a confident
familiarity, and treating them cautiously with a little whiskey, they
behaved tolerably well, and bartered a wild turkey which one of them
had shot for some flour, though it might have been supposed that they
would have made a compliment of it to us in return for our civility to
them, as besides giving them whiskey to drink, we had given them good
wheat loaf bread to eat, and had filled a bottle they had in their
canoe with whiskey for their squaws at the camp. It is remarked, that
the Indians are not in habits of generous acts, either through the
niggardliness of nature, or selfish mode of bringing up; or it may be
owing to their intercourse with the white hunters and traders, who
take every advantage of them in their dealings, and so set them an
example of selfishness and knavery, which they attempt to follow. Our
skiff which had been absent with some of the passengers now coming
on board, encreased our numbers so as to render us more respectable
in the eyes of our troublesome visitors, and being abreast of their
camp, where the party appeared pretty numerous, they shook hands with,
and left us, to our great joy, as we were not without apprehension
that they would have received a reinforcement of their companions
from the shore, which in our defenceless state would have been a most
disagreeable circumstance.

They were well formed men, with fine countenances, and their chief was
well drest, having good leggins and mockasins, and large tin ear-rings,
and his foretop of hair turned up, and ornamented with a quantity of
beads.

Evening approaching, we plied our oars diligently, to remove ourselves
as far as possible from the Indian camp before we should stop for the
night, and by six {260} o’clock we had the upper end of Flour island
on our right, three miles below where the Indians had left us. The
river making a sudden bend here from east to south, we lost sight of
the smoke of the camp, and of our apprehensions also, and about a mile
farther, seeing a South Carolina and a Pittsburgh boat moored at the
left bank, we rowed in and joined them. Near the landing was a newly
abandoned Indian camp, the trees having been barked only within a day
or two. To explain this it may be proper to observe, that the Indians,
who are wanderers, continually shifting their hunting ground, form
their temporary huts with two forked stakes, stuck in the ground, at
from six to twelve feet apart, and from four to six feet high. A ridge
pole is laid from fork to fork, and long pieces of bark stripped from
the neighbouring trees, are placed on their ends at a sufficient
distance below, while the other ends overlap each other where they
meet at the ridge pole, the whole forming a hut shaped like the roof
of a common house, in which they make a fire, and the men, when not
hunting, lounge at full length wrapped in their blankets, or sit cross
legged, while the women do the domestick drudgery, or make baskets of
various shapes with split cane, which they do with great neatness,
and a certain degree of ingenuity. If any of the men die while on an
excursion, they erect a scaffold about five feet high, on which they
place the corpse covered with the skin of a deer, a bear, or some other
animal they have killed in hunting. The dead man’s rifle, tomahawk, bow
and arrows are placed along side of him on the scaffold, to which the
whole is bound with strings cut from some hide. It is then surrounded
with stout poles or stakes, ten or twelve feet long, drove firmly into
the ground and so close to each other as not to admit the entry of a
small bird. Some of the female relations, are left in the hut close to
the scaffold, until the excursion is {261} finished; when, ere they
return home to their nation, they bury the corpse with much privacy.--I
had been informed that some priest or privileged person, who was
called the bone picker, was always sent for to the nation to come and
cleanse the bones from the flesh even in the most loathsome state of
putrefaction, that the bones might be carried home and interred in the
general cemetery, but I had frequent opportunities of proving the error
of this opinion. As to the women, when they die, (which is very rare,
except from old age) they are buried at once on the spot, with little
or no ceremony. While on the subject of Indians, it may not be amiss
to mention a trait in their character, of courage and submission to
their laws, of which numberless instances have happened, particularly
amongst the Chocktaws on the frontier of the Mississippi Territory,
and I believe common to all the Indian nations, which I do not
recollect being noticed by any writer on the subject of their manners
and customs. If any one maims or mutilates another, in a drunken or
private fray, he must forfeit his life. A few days (or if necessary)
even a few months, are allowed the offender to go where he pleases and
settle his affairs, at the expiration of which it has rarely if ever
happened, that he does not surrender himself at the place appointed, to
submit himself to the rifle of the injured party, or one of his nearest
relatives, who never fails to exact the full penalty, by shooting the
criminal. This is a very common circumstance, and is an instance of
national intrepidity and obedience to the laws, not excelled in the
purest times of the Roman republick.[187]

We were now dreadfully tormented by musquitoes and gnats, particularly
at night, when moored {262} to the bank. By day, while floating in the
middle of the river, they were less troublesome. I would recommend it
to travellers about to descend the Ohio and Mississippi, to provide
themselves, previous to setting off, with musquitoe curtains, otherwise
they never can reckon on one night’s undisturbed repose, while on their
journey, during the spring, summer or autumn.

May 27th.--We proceeded this morning early with the other two boats in
company, and passing Flour island (so named from the number of flour
loaded boats which formerly were thrown on it by the current and lost)
the first two miles brought us abreast of the first Chickasaw Bluffs,
on the left. It is a cliff of pale orange coloured clay, rising from a
base of rocks on the bank of the river, and surmounted by trees.--Half
a mile below, another similar cliff rises suddenly from the water’s
edge, the two being connected by a semicircular range of smaller ones
receding from the bank, having a small willow bottom in front of them.

The river retaining its southerly course, floated us in another half
league, past the beginning of island No. 34 of Cramer’s Navigator,
which is four miles and a half long, at the end of which, another large
island (not mentioned in the Navigator, but probably included in No.
34, from which only a narrow channel separates it) begins. Two miles
from hence a handsome little creek or river, about forty yards wide,
joins the Mississippi from the N. E. and nearly a mile lower is another
small creek from the eastward with willows at its mouth.

The second Chickasaw Bluff, which we had seen in a long reach down the
river ever since we passed Flour island, commences at a mile below the
last creek, on the left hand. The cliff, of a yellowish brown colour,
has fallen in from the top of the bluff, which is about one hundred
and fifty feet high, and immediately after is a cleft or deep fissure,
through {263} which, a small creek or run enters the river. Half a mile
lower down, the foundation of the cliff, formed apparently of potter’s
blue clay, assumes the appearance of the buttresses of an ancient
fortification, projecting to support the huge impending yellowish red
cliff above, the base of the whole next the water being a heap of ruins
in fantastick and various forms, perpetually tumbling from the cliff,
which is beautifully streaked with horizontal lines, separating the
different strata of sand and clay of which it is composed.

The second bluffs are about two miles long, and form the interior of a
great bend of the river, which curves from S. W. by S. to N. W. where
being narrowed to a quarter of a mile wide between the bluff and the
island, (on which the passengers had bestowed the name of Cuming’s
island) the current is so rapid and sets so strongly into the bend as
to require the greatest exertion of the oars to keep the boat in the
channel. The river then turns a little to the left, and keeping a W. by
N. course for three or four miles, then resumes its general direction,
meandering to the southward.

A mile and a half below the bluffs, island No. 35 commences, doubling
over Cuming’s island, whose lower point is not in sight, being
concealed by No. 35. The view of the river and islands from the top of
the bluff must be very fine.

No. 35 is three miles long. From the lower end of this island we saw
the Third Chickasaw Bluffs bearing east about six or seven miles
distant, at the end of a vista formed by the left hand channel of
island No. 36, and appearing to be a little higher than the First
or Second Bluffs, but without any marked particularity at that
distance.[188]


FOOTNOTES:

[186] On the Shawnee Indians, see Weiser’s _Journal_, vol. i of this
series, p. 23, note 13.--ED.

[187] The Choctaws lived in what is now Mississippi, south of the more
important Chickasaw tribe. Their position between the Creeks, Cherokee,
Chickasaw, Spaniards, and English led to much intriguing for their
alliance. The custom which Cuming here notes is verified by Mississippi
historians, and was utilized by the early justices of the country. See
Claiborne, _Mississippi_, p. 505.--ED.

[188] The third Chickasaw Bluff is the place where De Soto is said to
have crossed the Mississippi River. Here also it is supposed that La
Salle built Fort Prud’homme on his exploration of the river in 1682.
The later historic significance was overshadowed by that of Fourth
Chickasaw Bluff.--ED.




{264} CHAPTER XLV

 The Devil’s Race-ground--The Devil’s Elbow--Swans--Observations on
    game--Remarkable situation--Enormous tree--Join other boats--First
    settlements after the wilderness--Chickasaw Bluffs--Fort
    Pike--Chickasaw Indians--Fort Pickering.


Rowing into the right hand channel of No. 36, we entered the Devil’s
Race-ground, as the sound is called between the island and the main,
from the number of snags and sawyers in it, and the current setting
strongly on the island, which renders it necessary to use the oars
with continued exertion, by dint of which we got safely through this
dangerous passage of three miles, leaving several newly deserted Indian
camps on the right. At the end of the Devil’s Race-ground the river
turns from S. W. by W. to N. N. W. and here opposite a small outlet of
twenty yards wide on the left, we met a barge under sail, bound up the
river.

After three miles on the last reach the river turns gradually with a
bend, to its general southerly direction, the bend being encircled by
a low bank covered with tall cypresses, which keep the traveller in
constant dread of falling on his boat, which in spite of his utmost
exertion is forced by an irresistible current close into the bend.
The two other boats stopped here among some willows on account of a
breaking short sea raised by a fresh southerly wind.

Nine miles from the Devil’s Race-ground, we came to the Devil’s Elbow,
which is a low point on the left, round which the river turns suddenly,
from S. W. to S. and from that to E. an island being in front to the
southward, which intercepts the drifts, and fills the river above half
channel over with snags and sawyers. There was a very large flock of
swans {265} on the low sandy point of the Elbow. These were the first
swans we had seen on the river, although they are said to abound
throughout this long tract which is destitute of inhabitants. We had
been long accustomed to see numbers of bitterns and cranes, mostly
white as snow, and a few grey ones, and some duck and teal sometimes
shewed themselves, but took care to keep out of gun shot. Travellers
descending the river have but little chance of obtaining any game, as
its having become so great a thoroughfare, has rendered both the four
footed, and feathered tribes fit for the table so wild, that it is rare
that any of them, even when seen can be shot, and if one lands for the
purpose of hunting, the boat must stop, or else he is in danger of
being left behind, as the current runs never or in no place slower than
three miles an hour, and mostly four or five.

The easterly bend is six miles long, and about a mile wide, gradually
inclining to the south, and on the right are eight creeks or outlets
of the river, five of them divided from each other by narrow slips of
land about fifty paces wide each, and the other three by slips of one
hundred and fifty paces. Their general direction from the river is S.
S. W. and a point rounds the whole way from E. to S. E.--This is one of
the most remarkable situations on the river.

Two miles lower we stopped at island No. 40, for the night, and moored
by some willows at a sand beach, near a drift tree, the trunk of which
was one hundred and twenty-five feet long, and from its thickness where
broken towards the top, it must have been at least fifty feet more to
the extremity of the branches, making in the whole the astonishing
length of one hundred and seventy-five feet. Capt. Wells with two boats
from Steubenville, passed and stopped a little below us.

The Musquitoes as usual plagued us all night, and hastened our
departure at four o’clock in the morning. {266} Wells’s boats were in
company, and after floating six miles, we overtook two other boats from
Steubenville under the direction of captain Bell.--The four boats had
twelve hundred barrels of flour for the New Orleans market.

This accession to our company served to enliven a little the remainder
of this dreary and solitary part of the river, the sameness of which
had began to be irksome.

In a league more Bell’s boats took the right hand channel round an
archipelago of islands, while we kept to the left through Mansfield’s
channel, which is very narrow and meanders among several small islands
and willow bars.

This archipelago which is designated by No. 41 in the Navigator, is
three miles long. At the end of it we rejoined Bell’s boats, and passed
a settlement pleasantly situated on the right, which was the first
habitation since Little Prairie (one hundred and thirty-two miles.)
Here we observed a fine stock of horses, cows, and oxen, and half a
mile farther we landed in the skiff at Mr. Foy’s handsome settlement
and good frame house. Foy was the first settler fourteen years ago on
the Fourth Chickasaw Bluffs, which are opposite his present residence,
to which he removed eleven years ago; since when five families more
have settled near him, and about half a dozen on the Chickasaw side,
just below Wolf river. Soon after Foy’s first settlement, and very
near it, the Americans erected a small stoccado fort, named Fort Pike,
from the major commandant. After the purchase of Louisiana by the
United States from the Spaniards, Fort Pickering was erected two miles
lower down at the end of the bluffs, and Fort Pike was abandoned.
There are two stores on each side the river, one of which is kept by
Mr. Foy, who owns a small barge which he sends occasionally for goods
to New Orleans, from whence she returns {267} generally in forty
days, and did so once in thirty. Mrs. Foy was very friendly, amongst
other civilities, sparing us some butter, for which she would accept
no payment. This was the first instance of disinterestedness we had
experienced on the banks of the rivers.[189]

Wolf river is the boundary between the state of Tennessee and the
Mississippi territory. It is not more than about forty yards wide. The
bank of the Ohio and the Mississippi, the whole way from Tennessee
river is still owned by the Chickasaw nation, who have not yet sold
the territorial right.[190]

On the point immediately below Mr. Foy’s (whose negro quarter gives his
pleasantly situated settlement the appearance of a village or hamlet)
was formerly a Spanish fort no vestige of which now remains.[191]

Rowing across the river and falling down with the current, we landed
under Fort Pickering, having passed the Fourth Chickasaw Bluffs, which
are two miles long, and sixty feet perpendicular height. They are
cleared at the top to some little distance back, and the houses of the
settlers are very pleasantly situated near the edge of the cliff.

An Indian was at the landing observing us. He was painted in such a
manner as to leave us in doubt as to his sex until we noticed a bow
and arrow in his hand. His natural colour was entirely concealed under
the bright vermillion, the white, and the blue grey, with which he
was covered, not frightfully, but in such a manner as to mark more
strongly, a fine set of features on a fine countenance. He was drest
very fantastically in an old fashioned, large figured, high coloured
calico shirt--deer skin leggins and mockesons, ornamented with beads,
and a plume of beautiful heron’s feathers nodding over his forehead
from the back of his head.

We ascended to Fort Pickering[192] by a stair of one hundred and twenty
square logs, similar to that at {268} Jeffersonville. There was a trace
of fresh blood the whole way up the stair, and on arriving at the top,
we saw seated or lazily reclining on a green in front of the entrance
of the stoccado, about fifty Chickasaw warriours, drest each according
to his notion of finery, and most of them painted in a grotesque but
not a terrifick manner. Many of them had long feathers in the back part
of their hair, and several wore breast plates formed of tin in the
shape of a crescent, and had large tin rings in their ears.

On seeing so many Indians and the trace of blood before mentioned, an
idea started in my imagination that they had massacred the garrison,
but on advancing a little farther, I was agreeably undeceived by
seeing a good looking young white centinel in the American uniform,
with his musquet and fixed bayonet, parading before the gate of the
fort. He stopped us until permission was obtained from the commanding
officer for our entrance, and in the interim he informed me that he
was a Frenchman, a native of Paris, that he had been a marine under
Jerome Bonaparte, when the latter commanded a frigate, and that he had
deserted from him on his arrival in the Chesapeak. We were ushered by
a soldier to the officers’ quarters where we were received by lieut.
Taylor the commandant, with civility not unmixed with a small degree
of the pompous stiffness of office.[193] He however answered politely
enough a few interrogatories we made respecting the Indians. He said
they were friendly, and made frequent visits to the garrison, but
except a few of the chiefs on business, none of them were ever admitted
within the stoccado, and that this was a jubilee or gala day, on
account of their having just received presents from the United States’
government. They have a large settlement about five miles directly
inland from the river, but the most populous part of the Chickasaw
nation is one hundred miles distant to the south eastward.

{269} When we were returning to the boat, one of the Indians offered to
sell us for a mere trifle, a pair of very handsome beaded mockesons,
which we were obliged to decline, from having neglected to bring any
money with us.

Fort Pickering is a small stoccado, commanding from its elevated
situation not only the river, but also the surrounding country, which
however is not yet sufficiently cleared of wood to make it tenable
against an active enemy. There are some small cannon mounted, and
several pyramids of shot evince its being well supplied with that
article.


FOOTNOTES:

[189] The first fort known to have been erected on the site of Memphis
(Fourth Chickasaw Bluff) was that built by Bienville, governor of
Louisiana, during his campaigns against the Chickasaws (1735-40) and
called by him Fort Assumption. After the expedition of 1740, however,
this was abandoned, the place not being fortified until the Spanish
commandant Gayoso, in defiance of the authority of the United States,
crossed (1794) to the Chickasaw territory and built Fort San Fernando.
Two years later, after Pinckney’s treaty was signed, the Spaniards
reluctantly surrendered this outpost, whereupon the American Fort Pike
was built (1796).

Judge Benjamin Foy, of the Arkansas town of Foy’s Point, was a pioneer
of German descent, whose settlement is said to have been the most
healthful, moral, and intelligent community between the Ohio and
Natchez--due to the influence of its first settler, and his magisterial
powers. Volney, the French traveller, spent the winter of 1805 with Foy
in his Arkansas home.--ED.

[190] The Chickasaws maintained their right to the territory between
the Mississippi and the Tennessee until 1818, when commissioners for
the Federal Government bought the tract for $300,000. The town of
Memphis was laid out in the same year.--ED.

[191] This was the fort called Esperanza, where the village of
Hopefield, Arkansas, now stands.--ED.

[192] Fort Pickering (at first called Fort Adams) was erected by
Captain Guion on the orders of Wilkinson. Meriwether Lewis was for a
brief time (1797) in command of this post.--ED.

[193] This was Lieutenant Zachary Taylor, later the twelfth president
of the United States. His military commission dated from May 8, 1808,
so that his manner was doubtless due to his youth and the unaccustomed
novelty of his position.--ED.




CHAPTER XLVI

 A pleasant harbour--Barges from Fort Adams--River St. Francois--Big
    Prairie settlements--Remarkable lake and meadow--Settlements
    of Arkansas and White river--The latter broke up by general
    Wilkinson--Ville Aussipot.


A mile below Fort Pickering we passed a pleasantly situated settlement
on a detached bluff on the left, and from thence eight miles lower
we had an archipelago of islands on the right. We found this passage
very good, though the Navigator advises keeping to the right of the
first and largest island, named No. 46. Having passed Council island,
four miles long, and several willow islands and sand bars, in the
twenty-seven miles which we floated during the remainder of the day,
we then at sunset stopped and moored in a little eddy under a point on
the left, where several stakes drove into the strand indicate a well
frequented boat harbour. We found adjoining the landing, a beautiful
little prairie, and our being comparatively less troubled than usual
with gnats {270} and musquitoes, made us congratulate ourselves on the
situation we had chosen for the night. Next morning, May 30th, we
continued our voyage with charming weather.

We passed several islands, and some very intricate channels, where we
were obliged occasionally to work our oars with the utmost exertion, to
avoid snags, sawyers, and improper sucks.

We this day spoke a large barge with some military officers on board
from Fort Adams, bound to Marietta, with another following her, and
having floated thirty-two miles, we passed the mouth of the river
St. Francois on the right, but we could not see it on account of the
overlapping of two willow points, which veil it from passengers on the
Mississippi.

The river St. Francois rises near St. Louis in Upper Louisiana, and
runs parallel to the Mississippi, between three and four hundred miles,
between its source and its embouchure into that river.

The tongue of land between the two rivers, is only from six to twenty
miles wide in that whole distance, is all flat, and great part of it
liable to inundation in great floods. There is a chain of hills along
the whole western bank of the St. Francois, and in this chain, are
the lead mines of St. Genevieve, immediately behind that settlement,
which supply all the states and territories washed by the Ohio and the
Mississippi, and all their tributary streams, with that useful metal.
The St. Francois rarely exceeds one hundred yards in breadth, its
current is gentle, and its navigation unimpeded.

We landed at a fine well opened farm on the right, a mile below the
mouth of St. Francois, where a handsome two story cabin with a piazza,
seemed to promise plenty and comfort. This is the first settlement
below the Chickasaw Bluffs, a computed distance of sixty-five miles.
It is owned by one Philips from North Carolina, who has lived here six
years.[194] Notwithstanding {271} favourable appearances, we could
obtain no kind of refreshments here, not even milk, they having made
cheese in the morning, so we rowed down three miles and a half, to Wm.
Basset’s delightful situation on the Big Prairie, where was a large
stock of cattle, yet we were still disappointed in milk, so we kept on
four miles and a half to Anthony’s, where we obtained milk, sallad,
and eggs, and spent a pleasant night in a fine harbour, very little
troubled by musquitoes.

We had passed Well’s and Bell’s boats at moorings at the Big Prairie,
and about an hour after we stopped at Anthony’s, the South Carolina and
Pittsburgh boats arrived and made fast a little above us.

The Big Prairie is a natural savanna of about sixty acres open to
the river on the right bank. It is covered with a fine, rich, short
herbage, very proper for sheep. Immediately behind it at less than
half a mile from the river, is a small lake eight or nine miles in
circumference, formed in the spring and summer by the Mississippi,
which in that season rising, flows up a small canal or (in the language
of the country) bayau, and spreads itself over a low prairie. As
the river falls, the lake discharges its water again by the bayau,
and becomes a luxuriant meadow, covered with a tall but nutritive
and tender grass. While a lake, it abounds in fish of every species
natural to the Mississippi, and when a meadow, it is capable of feeding
innumerable herds of cattle. It is then watered by a rivulet which
descends from some low hills about three miles to the westward of the
river bank. From its regular annual inundation, this appears to be a
fine situation for rice grounds, if the water goes off soon enough to
allow the rice to ripen.

There are two settlements joining to Anthony’s fronting the river, and
five or six others at some little distance behind, there being in the
whole about a dozen families between Philips’s and a new settlement,
{272} three miles below Anthony’s, a distance of about twelve miles.
The inhabitants are all from Kentucky, except Basset, who is from
Natchez, and one family from Georgia. The soil here is good and the
situation pleasant and healthy. The settlers have abundance of fine
looking cattle, but they raise neither grain nor cotton, except for
their own consumption. They would go largely into the latter, which
succeeds here equal to any other part of the United States, but they
want machinery to clean it, and none of them are sufficiently wealthy
to procure and erect a cotton gin.

From hence to Arkansas is seventy miles, the road crossing White river
at thirty-five.[195] At the former (Arkansas) is a good settlement
of French, Americans, and Spaniards, who before the cession to the
United States, kept there a small garrison, and on the banks of White
river, some wealthy settlers had fixed themselves, one of whom had
thirty negroes, but they were all forced off by general Wilkinson a
few years ago, as they had no titles from the United States. This was
bad policy, as the White river lands were in such repute, that a great
settlement would have been formed there ere now.

May 31st, we proceeded in company with Bell and Wells, and to the
latter’s boats lashed ours, that we might drift the faster, from his
loaded boats drawing more water, and being of course more commanded by
the current than our light one.

Seventeen miles below Anthony’s, the river banks begin to be very low,
generally overflowed; the islands also are mostly willow islands, of
which we passed several in forty miles farther, which distance we
floated down until sunset, when we moored at a low point of willows,
and were devoured by musquitoes all night.

June 1st, after floating fourteen miles, and passing several islands
and sand bars, we passed the mouth {273} of White river on the right,
which appears more inconsiderable than it actually is, by its mouth
being almost concealed by willows. Seven miles lower down we met a
small barge with seven hands rowing up; she had come down Arkansas
river, from the settlement of Arkansas, and was about returning by
the channel of White river, which communicates with the Arkansas by a
natural canal, so that we were puzzled to understand the steersman, who
said he was from Arkansas and bound to Arkansas, until he explained it.
Eleven miles from hence, we had Arkansas river, two hundred yards wide,
on the right, and Ozark island two miles and a half in front below, the
Mississippi being about a mile wide.

The settlement of Arkansas or Ozark is about fifty miles above the
junction of that river with the Mississippi. It consists chiefly of
hunters and Indian traders, of course is a poor place, as settlers of
this description, never look for any thing beyond the mere necessaries
of life, except whiskey. Had the White river settlement been fostered,
instead of being broken up, Arkansas would have followed its example
in the cultivation of the lands, and would have become very soon of
considerable importance.

Having passed Ozark island (No. 75) two miles long, on the right, we
came to a mooring eight miles below, where we had our usual torment of
musquitoes all night.

June 2nd, we proceeded thirty-five miles, tired with the perpetual
sameness of low banks, willow islands and sand bars, we then came to a
settlement, the first below Big Prairie, from whence it is one hundred
and thirty-six miles, and just fifteen leagues below Arkansas river.

This settlement was commenced two months ago by a Mons. Malbrock, from
Arkansas, who has a large family and several negroes. He has named his
place Ville Aussipot, and he is clearing away {274} with spirit, having
already opened twelve or fourteen acres. His mode of providing meal
for his people, was by pounding corn in a wooden mortar, with a wooden
pestle, fixed to a spring sweep.

The neighbouring lands are all parcelled out and granted to settlers,
who are to commence directly. There is a fine prairie a league inland.
The river bank is sufficiently high to be secure from inundation, being
now six feet above the surface of the water, and the soil is very fine.

We stopped for the night on the right bank, seven miles below Mr.
Malbrock’s.


FOOTNOTES:

[194] Sylvanus Phillips later platted and became chief owner of Helena,
a town named for his daughter, about ten miles below the mouth of St.
Francis River. Phillips County, Arkansas, takes its name from this
pioneer.--ED.

[195] Arkansas Post (or Poste aux Arkansas) was accounted the oldest
white settlement in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tonty, on his voyage
of relief in search of La Salle (1686), ascended the Arkansas River
to a village of a tribe by the same name, where he left a detachment
of six men headed by Couture. Thither, the following year, came the
survivors of La Salle’s ill-fated Texas colony, and related the
assassination of their leader. The post was maintained as a trading
centre and Jesuit mission throughout the French occupation, and
survived an unexpected attack by the Chickasaws in 1748. The Jesuits
abandoned it as an unfruitful field in 1763. During the Spanish
occupation, the importance of this post as a trading station increased.
Pierre Laclède, founder of St. Louis, had a branch warehouse at
Arkansas Post, and died here in 1778. Upon the American occupation,
civil government was established (1804), and it was the capital for the
territory until 1820, when superseded by Little Rock. Arkansas Post was
captured by the Union forces from the Confederates, in 1863. It is now
a small town about seventy-five miles southeast of Little Rock.--ED.




CHAPTER XLVII

 Grand lake--Seary’s island--Extraordinary effect of the power of the
    current--Musquitoe island--Crow’s nest island--Humorous anecdote of
    a Carolinean--A battle royal--New settlements--Fine situations--
    Cuming’s island.


June 3d, after proceeding three miles, the river was narrowed by a
point of willows on the right to a quarter of a mile wide, and five
miles after, it widens gradually to half a mile.

In the next nineteen miles we passed several islands, giving a relief
to the eye, by their variety and some fine views.

We then passed on the right, the Grand lake, now grown up with willows,
where the river formerly entered, and encircled a cotton tree island,
which still rears itself predominant over the surrounding willow marsh.
Two miles below, the old willow channel returns again, diagonally, to
the present river bank, on the opposite side of which, on the left,
the old channel seems to have been continued, there surrounding {275}
another clump of cotton trees, called Seary’s island, (No. 90) which
is about a mile long, and which confines the present channel within a
limit of a quarter of a mile, which contraction shoots the river so
strongly against the low willow bend of the old channel below, that not
being able to bear the impetus of the torrent in the present flooded
state of the river, the tall willows are undermined, and falling every
moment, dash up the white foam in their fall, and sometimes spring up
again, as the root reaches the bottom of the river, in such a manner as
to impress the beholder with astonishment.

Fourteen miles more brought us to island No. 92, where we moored for
the night. We found abundance of blackberries on this island, but
in gathering them, we were attacked by such myriads of musquitoes,
generated by a pond in the middle, that we named it Musquitoe island.

June 4th, in eleven miles we arrived at Crow’s nest island, where
invited by the beauty of its appearance, some of us landed in the
skiff. It is a little narrow island, about a hundred and fifty paces
long by forty broad. It is sufficiently raised above inundation, and
is very dry and pleasant, with innumerable blackbirds, which have
their nests amongst the thirty tall cotton wood trees it contains.
It is covered with brush, through which is an old path from one end
to the other. A quantity of drift wood lies on its upper end, which
projecting, forms a fine boat harbour just below it, quite out of the
current. There are but few musquitoes on the dry part, but a low,
drowned point, covered with small poplars, and extending a hundred
yards at the lower end swarms with them, and many of the largest size,
called gannipers. These venemous and troublesome insects remind me of
a humorous story I have heard, which I take the liberty of introducing
here.

Some gentlemen in South Carolina had dined together, and while the
wine circulated freely after dinner the conversation turned on the
quantity of musquitoes generated in the rice swamps of that country.
One of the gentlemen said that those insects never troubled him,
and that he believed people in general complained more of them than
they had occasion to do--that for his part he would not notice them,
were he naked in a rice swamp. Another of the company (according to
the custom of the country, where all arguments terminate in a wager)
offered him a considerable bet that he would not lie quietly on his
face, naked, in the swamp, a quarter of an hour. The other took him
up, and all the party immediately adjourned to the place fixed on.
The gentleman stripped, lay down, and bore with the most resolute
fortitude the attack of the hostile foe. The time had almost expired,
and his antagonist fearing he must lose his wager, seized a fire brand
from one of the negro fires that happened to be near, and approaching
slyly applied it to a fleshy part of his prostrate adversary, who, not
able to bear the increased pain, clapped his hand on the part, jumped
up, and cried out “A ganniper by G----.” He then acknowledged he had
lost his wager, by that “damned ganniper,” and the party returned to
the house to renew their libations to Bacchus, and to laugh over the
comical termination of the bet.

Crow’s nest island is a beautiful little spot, and is about a mile from
the right bank, and half a mile from the left, and only a mile below
the commencement of a noble reach of the river, which is perfectly
straight for nine miles (therefore called the Nine mile reach) in a S.
S. W. direction, and upwards of a mile wide.

Eighteen miles from the lower end of the Nine mile reach, we came to
three new settlements on the left, within a mile of each other. The
banks here {277} are not more than three feet above the present level
of the river. Eleven miles farther, in an intricate pass between two
islands captain Wells’s inside boat was driven by the current against
a quantity of drift wood, the shock of which parted her from his
other boat and mine. She stuck fast, and we continued down the sound
between the islands about two miles, when seeing a convenient place
for stopping, we rowed in, and made fast in a fine eddy, among willows
at the lower point of the right hand island, where we were soon after
joined by Wells with his boat which he had got off again without damage.

Whiskey having been dealt liberally to the boatmen to induce them to
exert themselves while the boat was in danger, it began to operate
by the time they rejoined us, the consequence of which was a battle
royal, in which some of the combatants attempted to gouge each other,
but my boat’s company interfering, separated them, and quelled the
disturbance, after which I delivered them a long lecture on that
shameful, unmanly, and inhuman practice, condemning it in such strong
terms, as to almost provoke an attack against myself, but I at last
succeeded, or thought I succeeded, in making them ashamed of themselves.

The two islands between which we had just floated, are mentioned
improperly in the Navigator as one island, which is numbered 100. The
channel between is very narrow, the ship channel in this stage of the
water being evidently to the right of both, and a small willow island
besides to the right of them.--The second of the islands is properly
No. 100.[196]

The musquitoes were this night, as usual, insupportable, spite of smoke
which we used almost to suffocation.

{278} June 5th, having lashed the boats together again, we cast them
loose from their moorings at an early hour, and trusted them to the
current, but after floating six miles we had to use our oars with
the utmost exertion, to avoid some broken and hanging trees, with
a whirling eddy just below them, occasioned by a point on the left
projecting far into a bend on the right, and being rendered rapid by
the channel above being narrowed by island 101. Inside of these broken
trees, the canes were burnt, as if with intention to make a settlement.
The canes or reeds, which grow to an immense size on the river banks,
had now began to take the place of brush or copse wood, but they do not
prevent the growth of the forest trees, which appear to gain in size
the lower we descend.

A mile below the intricate pass, we came to a settlement commenced
this spring by a Mr. Campbell from Bayau Pierre, who has made a good
opening. The family which had commenced near the whirlpool above, were
residing with him. The river in general at its greatest height never
rises more than a foot higher than it was now. It is ten miles from
hence to Yazoos river, and twenty to the Walnut hills, eighteen below
the last three new settlements, and one hundred below Ville Aussipot.

A mile and a half lower, is a beautiful situation on the right, partly
cleared, with a cabin on it, but no inhabitants. The river trenches
from hence E. S. E. and a mile lower is another new settlement on the
right, from whence is a fine reach of the river downwards E. ½ S. In
the next half league, are three more new settlements also on the right,
all commenced this spring.

A mile lower is a charming situation for a settlement, at present
unoccupied. It is opposite island No. 103, and continues three miles
to a point where the river resumes its S. S. W. direction, at the end
{279} of that island, which is itself a delightful and most eligible
situation for an industrious and tasty farmer.

There are some settlements opposite the end of the island on the right
bank, and on the left, opposite, is discernible the bed of an old
schute of the Mississippi, or rather a mouth of the Yazoos, as the
low willows which mark this old bed join that river two miles above
where it enters the Mississippi. From my admiration of No. 103, my
fellow voyagers named it Cuming’s island, and indeed I should have
been tempted to have settled on it, had every thing been perfectly
convenient for that purpose.


FOOTNOTES:

[196] Noted in the seventh edition of the Navigator.--CRAMER.




CHAPTER XLVIII

 The Walnut hills and Fort M’Henry--Palmyra--Point Pleasant--Big
    Black--Trent’s point--The Grand Gulph--Bayau Pierre.


A mile below Cuming’s island, is a settlement on the right, and four
others immediately below it, all within a quarter of a mile of each
other, and all apparently commenced last year. Three miles below
Cuming’s island, we passed the mouth of the river Yazoos on the
left. It is about two hundred and fifty yards wide, and affords a
fine view up it four or five miles. Opposite, on the right, is the
fine settlement of George Collins, with the Walnut hills in sight
over the trees at the end of the reach. Three quarters of a mile
below Collins’s there is another small settlement, from whence the
Mississippi takes a curve to the N. E. and then again turns to the
left, where at the end of a short easterly reach, we saw over the
trees, a cliff of the Walnut hills three miles {280} lower down, and
soon after, two large, well cleared farms, cultivated from the bank
to the top of the hills, where are seen the earthen ramparts of Fort
M’Henry, now abandoned. These hills are about as high as the lower
Chickasaw Bluffs, but differ from them by rising gradually with
a gentle slope, having a most delightful effect on the eye after
the level banks with which it has been fatigued, since passing the
Bluffs.[197]

Five miles below the hills, we lost sight of them, having passed
several new settlements on the right, but none on the left below the
hills for seven miles, where we observed a good large framed house
with a piazza. Two miles farther we landed at a farm with a good
negro quarter, belonging to a Mr. Hicks from Tennessee, where we got
some milk, and returning to our boat, we boarded in the way the barge
Adventurer, twenty-nine days from New Orleans, bound to Nashville.

There are a few new settlements in the next seven miles, when on a
point on the left we passed the first farm in Palmyra, and rowing
strong in to prevent being carried to the right of Palmyra island, we
stopped and moored at the bank.

It is about seven years since several families from New England
commenced this beautiful settlement. The situation is almost a
peninsula, formed by a continued bending of the river in an extent of
four miles, the whole of which is cultivated in front, but the clearing
extends back only one hundred and fifty rods, where is a lake, and some
low swampy land, always inundated during the summer freshes. There are
sixteen families, who occupy each a front of only forty rods, so that
the settlement has the appearance of a straggling village. The soil
is very fertile, as a proof of which, Mrs. Hubbard, to whose house I
went for milk, informed me that last year she had gathered seventeen
thousand pounds of cotton in {281} seed, from nine acres, which,
allowing it to lose about three quarters in cleaning, left five hundred
pounds of clean cotton to the acre, which is a great excess of produce
over the West India or Georgia plantations, where an acre rarely yields
more than two hundred and seventy-five pounds. At this early season the
corn was well advanced, and I observed some in tassel.

Palmyra is one of the most beautiful settlements in the Mississippi
Territory, the inhabitants having used all that neatness and industry
so habitual to the New Englanders. They now complain that they have too
little land, and several of them have appropriated more on the banks
of a lake about a mile behind the opposite bank of the Mississippi, in
Louisiana. I think the lake and swamp behind Palmyra must render it
unhealthy, and the pale sallow countenances of the settlers, with their
confession that they are annually subject to fevers and agues, when the
river begins to subside, confirms me in my opinion. Indeed this remark
may be applied to the banks of the Mississippi in the whole of its long
course, between the conflux of the Ohio and the Gulph of Mexico.

June 6th.-We proceeded this morning through the channel between
Palmyra and Palmyra island, which at low water is almost dry.

The Mississippi has a westerly course past Palmyra, from which it
crooks gradually to the southward, and then to the eastward, so that
Point Pleasant in Louisiana, fifteen miles by the river below Palmyra,
is only two miles distant by a road across the swamp from the opposite
bank. There are some islands in the river in that distance, but few
settlements on either bank, until we came to Point Pleasant, from
whence downwards the banks gradually become more thickly inhabited.

{282} Let it be remarked that the river is generally from half to three
quarters of a mile wide, except in such parts as I have particularized
its breadth.

Big Black river, which is deep, but only forty yards wide at its mouth,
after a S. W. course from the Chickasaw nation, discharges itself into
the Mississippi on the left, seven miles below Point Pleasant. There
are several settlements on the banks of Big Black, for forty miles
above its mouth, and a town was laid out on it which has not succeeded,
and on account of its unhealthy situation, probably never will.[198] A
quarter of a mile below Big Black, a ridge of hills called the Grand
Gulph hills, terminates abruptly at a bluff on the left bank. At the
base of the bluff, are a heap of loose rocks, near which is a quarry
of close granite, from which some industrious eastern emigrants have
cut some excellent mill and grindstones. These hills form a barrier
which turns the river suddenly from the eastern course it had held for
a few miles above, to a S. W. direction, and it is at the same time
narrowed by a projecting point on the right, called Trent’s point,
to about a quarter of a mile wide. The acute angle and the sudden
compression of the waters of the river, form what is called the Grand
Gulph, immediately below the narrows, making two great eddies, between
which the true current runs in so narrow a limit for about half a mile,
that some skill and dexterity are necessary to keep a boat in it,
and to prevent her being sucked into one or the other eddy, in which
case, particularly in that on the left, she will be carried round in
a circle of a mile or two, and require the greatest exertions of the
oars to extricate her. Delay is the only inconvenience attending the
getting engulphed, as there is no whirlpool of sufficient suction to
draw down even a skiff. Trent has a good house and farm, and a most
delightful situation on the right hand point, which is as high above
common inundation, {283} as any other part of the river level banks,
but the swamp approaching close behind, contracts the farm more than a
proprietor would wish.

I may here observe that the banks of the Mississippi form a natural
dam, barrier or levée, more or less broad, from fifty paces to three or
four miles, behind which the land slopes to nearly the level of the bed
of the river, so that in every summer flood, there is a general back
inundation, on the subsiding of which, so much stagnant water remains,
as to cause annual attacks of fever and ague, which accounts for the
sallow complexion of the inhabitants of the banks.

In the eight miles between the Grand Gulph and Bayau Pierre, there
are several settlements on the right, and but three or four on the
left bank of the river, the most conspicuous of which is that of Major
Davenport, began about a year ago.

At three, P. M. having cast off from Mr. Wells’s boats, we rowed into
the mouth of Bayau Pierre, up which we advanced a quarter of a mile,
and then fastened to a willow, in the middle of the river.

The contrast between our situation now, and while in the Mississippi
was very striking. From a noble, majestick, stream, with a rapid
current, meandering past points, islands, plantations and wildernesses,
and bearing the produce of the inland states, in innumerable craft of
every kind, to New Orleans and the ocean. To find myself suddenly in
a deep, dark, narrow stagnate piece of water, surrounded closely by a
forest of tall willows, poplars, and other demi aquatick trees, and
not a sound to be heard, except the monotonous croakings of frogs,
interrupted occasionally by the bull like roaring of an alligator--the
closeness of the woods excluding every current of air, and hosts of
musquitoes attacking one in every {284} quarter. The _tout ensemble_
was so gloomy, that a British seaman, one of Wells’s boat’s crew, who
had volunteered to assist in getting our boat into the bayau, looking
round, exclaimed emphatically--

“And is it here you stop, and is this the country to which so many poor
ignorant devils remove, to make their fortunes?--D----n my precious
eyes if I would not rather be at allowance of a mouldy biscuit a
day, in any part of Old England, or even New York, Pennsylvania, or
Maryland, than I would be obliged to live in such a country as this two
years, to own the finest cotton plantation, and the greatest gang of
negroes in the territory.”


FOOTNOTES:

[197] Walnut Hills is the site of Vicksburg, which was laid out as a
town in 1811. This territory, between 31° and 32° 30′ north latitude,
was in contention between Spain and the United States from the treaty
of 1783 until that known as Pinckney’s treaty in 1795, when Spain
consented to recognize the right of the United States to the disputed
strip. Meanwhile, the local authorities refused to surrender the forts,
and it was not until 1798 that a detachment of United States troops
took possession of Fort Nogales (built on this site in 1789), and
changed its name to Fort McHenry, in honor of the then secretary of
war. This territory was part of the grant of the Yazoo Company, whose
frauds caused so much contention over titles in the district. See
Haskins, “The Yazoo Land Companies,” in American Historical Association
_Papers_ (New York, 1891), v, pp. 395-437.--ED.

[198] This settlement on the Big Black was made by Connecticut
emigrants upon a grant to General Phineas Lyman (1775), when the region
was part of West Florida. Several journals detailing the hardships of
the colonists are extant, notably that of Captain Matthew Phelps.--ED.




CHAPTER XLIX

 Commence my tour by land--Bruinsbury--A primitive clergyman--Bayau
    Pierre swamp--Hilly country--Plantations--Thunder storm--A
    benevolent shoemaker--Norris’s--Cole’s creek--A consequential
    landlord--Greenville--Union town--A travelling painter.


On Monday 22d August, I set out from Bruinsbury on horseback, for
the purpose of visiting the most improved parts of the Mississippi
territory, and the adjacent part of the Spanish province of West
Florida.

Bruinsbury was the property of judge Bruin,[199] until lately, that
he sold it together with a claim to about three thousand acres of the
surrounding land to Messrs. Evans and Overaker of Natchez, reserving to
himself his house, offices and garden.

It is a mile below the mouth of bayau Pierre, the banks of which
being low and swampy, and always annually overflowed in the spring,
he projected the {285} intended town of Bruinsbury, where there was a
tolerably high bank and a good landing which has only been productive
of a cotton gin, a tavern, and an overseer’s house for Mr. Evan’s
plantation, exclusive of the judge’s own dwelling house, and it will
probably never now become a town notwithstanding many town lots were
purchased, as Mr. Evans means to plant all the unappropriated lots,
preferring the produce in cotton to the produce in houses.

I was accompanied from the judge’s by an elderly Presbyterian
clergyman, a native of New England, who had been a missionary among
the Chickasaw or Cherokee nations. He was a man of great simplicity
of manners, and wonderfully ignorant of all established modes. During
the short time we rode together, the characteristick feature of his
country was displayed in the innumerable questions he asked me relative
to whence I came, where I was going, and my objects and intentions,
particularly in my present journey. I at last discovered a mode of
parrying his wearisome curiosity, by becoming curious in my turn. This
seemed to gratify him equally, as it led to a circumstantial account
of a life as little chequered by incident as can be conceived. He had
been the scholar of the family, one of the sons of a farmer’s family in
New England being always selected for that purpose. He had graduated
at college--been ordained--went to Carolina--kept a school there--was
appointed by a synod a missionary for the propagation of the gospel
among the Indians, in which situation for several years, he had raised
a family, and leaving his eldest children to possess and cultivate
lands granted him by the Indians, he had removed with his wife and
his youngest children to this territory, where, by keeping a school,
preaching alternate Sundays, at two or three different places, twelve
or fourteen miles asunder, and cultivating a small cotton plantation,
he made a very comfortable subsistence. {286} Although I could not
agree with him with respect to the comfort of a subsistence so hardly
earned, yet I could not help admiring the truth of the old adage, that
_custom is second nature_, and always fits the back to the burthen.

Our first two miles was through the river bottom, the most remote part
of which from the river, is inundated annually by the back waters of
bayau Pierre, which overflows all the neighbouring low lands for forty
miles from its mouth, when its current is checked by the rising of the
Mississippi. On the subsiding of the floods, so much water remains
stagnant, as to cause the fever and ague to be endemick in all the
tract of country washed by the bayau Pierre, from ten miles above the
town of Port Gibson.

On leaving the swamp we ascended a hill, on the brow of which is a
charmingly situated plantation owned and occupied by a Mr. Smith. The
increased elasticity of the air, renovated our spirits, and seemed to
increase the good parson’s garrulity. A mile of a delightful road
through open woods on a dry ridge brought us from Mr. Smith’s, to
Mr. Robert Cochran’s fine plantation. It was near dinner time, and
a thunder cloud rising before us, gave my companion a pretext for
wishing to stop, but I having declared before that I would not, and now
refusing Mr. Cochran’s invitation, who from the stile as we passed told
us dinner was on the table, the good man good humouredly sacrificed
his desire to mine, and proceeded with me, by which complaisance he
got wet to the skin. He only accompanied me another mile, turning off
to the left to go to Greenville, while I continued my route to the
southward along the lower Natchez road, which runs nearly parallel to
the Mississippi, on the ridges behind the river bottoms.

A thunder cloud which had been threatening at a distance for some time
before, now began to rise and spread rapidly. It was in vain that I put
spurs to my {287} horse--I was instantly deluged with torrents of rain,
accompanied by as tremendous thunder and lightning as I ever had before
witnessed, and a heavy gust of wind at the same time, blew down several
trees in every direction close round me. My horse though an old steady
traveller, was so affrighted that I could not manage him but with great
difficulty. Three miles and a half through the storm brought me to
Glascock’s small plantation, where I fortified against a chill with a
glass of gin presented to me by the good lady of the house, who also
regaled me with some fine peaches. The rain soon subsiding, I resumed
my journey in my wet clothes, but I had scarcely advanced a mile, when
another shower forced me to take shelter at a small, but pleasantly
situated farm, rented by a Mr. Hopper from Mr. Cochran.

The face of the country became now more broken, but the soil improved,
and the road degenerating to a bridle path through the woods, and being
hilly, and forked and intersected by cattle paths, was both difficult
to find and disagreeable to travel. A mile from Hopper’s, I stopped at
an old school-house, where I observed a shoemaker at work under a shed
in front of the cabin, to get my boot mended. He was named Ostun, had
lately arrived from South Carolina with his family, and had made the
unoccupied school-house his temporary abode, until he should find an
eligible situation for a settlement. He repaired my boot, entertained
me with his intentions, hopes, and expectations, regretted he had no
shelter to offer me for myself and my horse, that he might prevent my
going farther that night through the rain (which was literally the
case, as the old little cabin let the water in at almost every part)
and would accept of nothing for his trouble. It would be unpardonable
to neglect noticing the kindness of this plain, honest shoemaker, in a
country where benevolence is a virtue not too much practised.

{288} A mile from hence, by the advice of my friendly shoemaker, I
turned to the left, to seek shelter for the night, at the hospitable
cabin and fine farm of Mr. James Norris, half a mile farther, instead
of keeping the usual road to the right, two miles to Mr. Joseph
Calvet’s.[200] I was well recompensed for my deviation, by a frank and
hearty welcome, a pleasant fire, a good supper, an excellent bed, and
the intelligence that I was on the best and plainest road, and the
shortest by four miles. This neighbourhood consists of half a dozen
families, chiefly from South Carolina, from which state Mr. Norris
came a few years ago. I found him fully deserving the high character
Mr. Ostun gave me of him for hospitality. He strongly recommended my
settling some place near, and recommended it to me to purchase, if
possible, a tract of land owned by Mr. Cochran, near Hopper’s.

August 23d, departing from Mr. Norris’s at early dawn, the road, which
had been opened wide enough for a wagon, but now much overgrown by poke
and other high weeds, (the dew from which as I pressed through them,
wet me as much as a shower of rain would have done) led me along the
top of a narrow and very crooked ridge in generally a S. E. direction
nearly four miles, where coming to three forks, I kept the left one
which brought me in a mile more through some beautiful open woods on
a light soil to a small corn field on the right, with no habitation
visible, beyond which I crossed up to my horse’s knees the North fork
of Cole’s creek, which now was a pretty little, transparent, sandy
bottomed stream, but after heavy rains it swells suddenly and becomes
a frightful and deep torrent, sometimes impassible for several days.
Turning to the left beyond the creek, I had one mile to an old deserted
field, now an arid plain, affording a very scanty pasture of poor grass
to a few lean cattle. The distant crowing of a cock {289} advertised me
of my approach to a settlement, and I soon after came to a corn field
and a hatter’s shop, on the banks of the middle fork of Cole’s creek,
a stream in size and appearance similar to the North fork. Crossing
it, the road led through some small plantations on a light thin sandy
soil, a mile and a half to Greenville, where I put up at Green’s tavern
and breakfasted. My host affected a little consequence, but when he
understood that I was in search of land to settle on, he became more
attentive, and persuaded me much, to purchase from him, a tract of land
in the neighbourhood, which he recommended very highly.

Greenville (or Huntstown, its old name) the capital of Jefferson
county, is very handsomely situated, on a dry sandy plain near the
middle branch of Cole’s creek. It is surrounded at a little distance by
small farms and woods, which add variety and beauty to its appearance.
A stranger would suppose it healthy, but my information respecting
it was rather the reverse, particularly in the autumnal months, when
it is subject to bilious disorders. Perhaps this may be owing to the
excessive heat occasioned by the reflection of the sun from the sandy
soil, as it is sufficiently elevated, and there is no stagnant pond,
nor low marsh, near it to generate fevers. This is probably one cause
of its being in a state of decay; another may be the difficulty of
approaching it during floods in Cole’s creek, which happen after every
rain, and which in a manner insulate it while they last. It consists of
one wide straight street nearly half a mile long, running N. by W. and
S. by E. intersected by two small cross ones, containing in all forty
tolerably good houses, many of which are now unoccupied, and offered
for sale, at little more than a quarter of their cost in building. It
has a small church for general use of all christian sects, a small
court-house, a gaol and a pillory, a post-office, two stores, two
taverns, {290} and an apothecary’s shop. The town is well watered by
wells dug to about thirty feet deep.[201]

Proceeding to the S. S. W. keeping to the right at the south end of the
town, at one mile I crossed a deep ravine, with a spring well and a
washing camp in it, overhung by a house on the projecting corner of a
small plantation, on a hill on the left.

The road was well opened, but hilly, through the woods, for two miles
farther, when on crossing a water course (now dry) and rising a hill,
I had a view on the right, over the extensive plantation of colonel
West,[202] who has upwards of two hundred acres in one field in
cultivation. The soil seems very thin, as in the whole neighbourhood of
Greenville, but the crop of cotton and corn now looked luxuriant, from
the wetness of the season.

Two miles farther I passed on the right Parker Cardine’s delightfully
situated plantation, with an excellent dwelling house, and good apple
and peach orchards, with the south branch of Cole’s creek, winding
round on the right below, and which I crossed soon after. The soil
however is very light, and is soon washed off, and worn out, where it
has been cultivated a few years, on the whole tract between Greenville
and Natchez.

The country here is well opened and inhabited to a little beyond
Uniontown, which is a small village of three or four houses in decay,
about a mile beyond Cardine’s.[203]

I stopped at Uniontown to _feed_ my horse. (I make use of the active
verb _feed_, instead of the passive one, _to have my horse fed_, as
travellers in this country, who will not take the trouble of giving
corn and fodder to their horses themselves, may expect to have them
soon die of famine, although they pay extravagantly for food and
attendance.) I was here joined by a trig looking young man mounted on a
mule, who requested to accompany me on the road towards Natchez. {291}
In riding along, he entertained me with his history. He said his name
was Jackson--that he was born in London--was bred a painter, and was
sent to a rich uncle in St. Vincents, when only fourteen years old.
That aided by his uncle, he had traded among the West India islands,
until he was seventeen, when being concerned with a son of colonel
Haffey, in a contraband adventure to Martinique, he lost every thing,
and then came to the continent, where he had supported himself as
an itinerant house and landscape painter, in which capacity he had
travelled over most parts of the United States. Unfortunately for
the credit of his veracity, he described my old friend colonel Henry
Haffey, as a native French Creole of Martinique, when in reality, he
was born in the North of Ireland, and had nothing of the Frenchman,
either in manner or character. Besides, having no children himself,
he had adopted Henry Haffey Gums, a nephew of his wife’s. On this
discovery I humoured my companion, and affected to believe all he said,
which betrayed him into many laughable absurdities and contradictions.


FOOTNOTES:

[199] Judge Peter Bryan Bruin was an Irishman, who having come to
America while yet young, became a patriot in the Revolution, joined
Morgan’s riflemen, and was captured at the siege of Quebec. He entered
Morgan’s New Madrid land scheme, but proceeding to Natchez settled as
a planter at the mouth of Bayou Pierre, where he was alcalde under the
Spanish régime. Upon the organization of Mississippi Territory, Bruin
was appointed one of the three territorial judges, which office he held
until his resignation in 1810. The site of his plantation is noted
as the point where Grant crossed the Mississippi and began his march
against Vicksburg.--ED.

[200] Joseph Calvit served as lieutenant in Clark’s Illinois
campaign, and was with him at Kaskaskia in 1779. Later going to the
Natchez country, he became a prominent and respected citizen of
Mississippi.--ED.

[201] Greenville was laid out as the seat of Jefferson County, in 1802,
being named in honor of General Nathaniel Greene, of Revolutionary
fame. When the county-seat was removed to Fayette in 1825, Greenville
declined in importance, and the site is now a cotton-field.--ED.

[202] Colonel Cato West was a Virginian who removed to Georgia at an
early day, and subsequently left the Holston Valley to join George
Rogers Clark in Kentucky. Finding the current of the Ohio difficult to
stem, he floated down to Natchez, secured a Spanish grant, and became a
leading citizen of early Mississippi. Colonel West was secretary of the
territory from 1802-09, and member of the Constitutional Convention in
1817.--ED.

[203] Parker Carradine was a Mississippian who came thither during the
English rule, and belonged to the party who opposed Willing and Gayoso,
the American and Spanish invaders of the Natchez district.

Uniontown is now a small hamlet known as Union Church.--ED.




CHAPTER L

 Sulserstown--Washington--Mr. Blennerhasset’s--Natchez--Historical
    sketch of Mississippi territory--Col. Sargeant’s--Col. Scott’s--Fine
    country--Mr. Green’s.


The road turning more to the S. W. led us through a wood along a
high ridge a little broken by hills, descending abruptly on each
hand at intervals, with only one small settlement in the six miles
to Sulserstown, which is a village of ten small houses, {292} three
of which are taverns. After passing it, I observed to the N. W. an
extensive cotton plantation, with a good house in a very picturesque
situation, occasioned by an insulated hill near it, with a flat plain
on the top, cultivated in cotton, supported on every side by a cliff,
clothed with wood, rising abruptly from the cultivated plantation
below, which beyond the insulated hill, was bounded by a range of
broken higher hills, cultivated to near the tops, and crowned with
woods.

Six miles more brought us through a tolerably well inhabited country,
to Washington, the capital of the territory, where we stopped at Hill’s
tavern.--This tavern (as I find is the custom in this country) is kept
in a front building by Mr. Hill, assisted by some negro servants, while
Mrs. Hill and her daughters live in a detached building in the rear,
where I was received by them kindly, in remembrance of their having
descended the Ohio and Mississippi in my boat with me.

Before supper I walked through the town, in which I counted thirty
scattering houses, including one store, one apothecary’s shop, three
taverns and a gaol, all in one street on the Natchez road. The dress
of some ladies I met in my ramble was tasty and rather rich. Water is
well supplied by wells about forty feet deep, and about a quarter of
a mile from the east end is a delightful spring, near the bank of St.
Catherine’s creek, where is a hot and cold bath--the price of bathing
is three eighths of a dollar. Wine, liquors, and spirits are sold--and
I found three or four companies of males and females, seated in the
shade of some spreading forest trees, enjoying the cool transparent
water, either pure or mixed to their taste. I was informed that this
was a fashionable resort of the neighbouring country, for several
miles round, and from Natchez, between which city {293} and Washington
a stage coach plies, arriving here every evening and departing every
morning.

Hearing a drum beat, on enquiry, I was informed, that it was the
evening roll call of three or four companies of foot, at a barrack a
little beyond the baths.[204]

Governour Williams has a plantation adjoining the town, and resides in
a neat cottage upon it.

Wednesday 24th August.--After a sleepless night, I arose early and
found it raining, so I breakfasted, and awaited until ten o’clock, when
it clearing up a little, I rode three miles in a southerly direction
deviating a little to the right of the main road, to a farm rented
from Mr. Forman by Mr. Blennerhasset, at whose hospitable dwelling, I
was received by Mr. B. and his accomplished and amiable lady with the
utmost kindness and politeness.[205] I could not help contrasting their
present temporary residence in a decayed cabin, with their splendid
and tasty habitation on the Ohio. Blest however in each other, with
kindred souls and similar tastes--possessing a noble library, and still
a sufficiency left after all their losses, with a well regulated but
liberal economy, for all the necessaries, and many of the indulgencies
of life.

After dinner I tore myself with difficulty from the social and
intellectual feast I was enjoying, and proceeding on my journey through
a woody country, and a light soil, I arrived at Natchez a little before
dark.

I was much struck with the similarity of Natchez to many of the smaller
West India towns, particularly St. Johns Antigua, though not near so
large as it. The houses all with balconies and piazzas--some merchants’
stores--several little shops kept by free mulattoes, and French and
Spanish Creoles--the great mixture of colour of the people in the
streets, and many other circumstances, with the aid of a little fancy
to heighten the illusion, might have made one {294} suppose, in the
spirit of the Arabian Knight’s Entertainments, that by some magick
power, I had been suddenly transported to one of those scenes of my
youthful wanderings. When the illusion was almost formed, a company
of Indians meeting me in the street dispelled it, so bidding adieu to
the romance of the fancy, I sat down to supper at Mickie’s tavern, or
hotel, by which appellation it is dignified.

On Thursday the 25th, I arose early, and sauntered to the market-house
on a common in front of the town, where meat, fish and vegetables were
sold by a motley mixture of Americans, French and Spanish creoles,
Mulattoes and negroes. There seemed to be a sufficiency of necessaries
for so small a town, and the price of butcher’s meat, and fish was
reasonable, while vegetables, milk and butter were extravagantly dear.

Natchez, in latitude 31° 33′ N.--longitude 91° 29′ W. of Greenwich,
contains between eighty and one hundred dwelling houses, as nearly
as I could enumerate them. It is situated on a very broken and hilly
ground, but notwithstanding the irregularity and inequality of the
surface, the streets are marked out at right angles, which makes them
almost impassible in bad weather, except Market street and Front
street which are levelled as much as the ground will permit. A small
plain of a hundred and fifty yards wide in front of the town rising
gradually to the edge of the high cliff or bluff which overhangs the
river, veils the view of that interesting object from the inhabitants,
but at the same time contributes to defend the town from the noxious
vapours generated in the swamps immediately on the river banks, yet
not so effectually as to prevent its being sometimes subject to
fevers and agues, especially from July to October inclusive, when
few strangers escape a seasoning, as it is called, which frequently
proves mortal. The surrounding country at a little distance {295} from
the Mississippi, is as healthy as most other countries in the same
parallel of latitude. The landing, where are a few houses immediately
under the bluff, is particularly fatal to the crews of the Ohio and
Kentucky boats, who happen to be delayed there during the sickly season.

Though Natchez is dignified with the name of a city, it is nevertheless
but a small town. It is however a place of considerable importance in
consequence of its being the principal emporium of the commerce of
the territory, and of its having been so long the seat of government,
under the French, English, and Spaniards, which caused all the lands
in the vicinity to be cultivated and settled, while those more remote
were neglected, though in general a much better soil. There is a Roman
Catholick church, which is an old wooden building in decay, and there
is a brick meeting-house for either Presbyterians or Anabaptists, I
am not sure which. These, and an old hotel de ville, or court-house,
are the only publick buildings the city boasts, except it be an old
hospital, now fitting up as a theatre for a private dramatick society.
Several of the houses are new and very good, mostly of wood, and I am
informed many (more than half) have been added within the last four
or five years. Fort Penmure,[206] on the edge of the bluff is now in
ruins, but the situation, and the extent of the old ramparts, prove
it to have been a post of considerable consequence. It effectually
commands the river, without being commanded itself, and the view from
it is very extensive, particularly over the flat swamps of Louisiana,
on the opposite side of the Mississippi.

The first permanent settlement on the Mississippi was made in 1712,
and notwithstanding many misfortunes, particularly the failure of the
celebrated Mississippi company, founded by John {296} Law, during the
regency of the duke of Orleans, the settlements extended in 1727 to
Natchez, and a fort was erected there. In 1731, the Indians, disgusted
with the tyranny and cruelty of the French colonists, massacred most
of them, for which, in the following year, the French took ample
vengeance, almost extirpating the whole Natchez race. The few who
escaped took refuge amongst their neighbours the Choctaws, where
becoming naturalized, they soon lost their original name. The French
kept possession of the country until 1763, when it was ceded to the
British. It continued under the British government until 1779, when
it was surrendered by colonel Dickson the commander of the British
troops at Baton Rouge, to the Spaniards under Don Bernando de Galvez.
In 1798, in consequence of arrangements between the United States and
the government of Spain, the latter gave up all claim to the country
east of the Mississippi to the northward of the 31st degree of north
latitude, in favour of the former, who erected it into a territorial
government, under the name of the Mississippi territory.

Proceeding to the southward from Natchez, I passed some tasty cottages,
and deviating a little to the right of the main road, in two short
miles I came to colonel (late governour) Sergeant’s handsome brick
house.[207] The road led through a double swinging gate into a
spacious lawn, which the colonel has formed in the rear of the house,
the chief ornament of which was a fine flock of sheep. The appearance
of this plantation bespoke more taste and convenience than I had yet
observed in the territory. Riding half a mile through the lawn, I left
it by a similar gate to the first, and a quarter of a mile more of an
open wood brought me to colonel Wm. Scott’s, to whom I had a letter of
introduction.

{297} He received me according to his usual custom with kindness and
hospitality, and presented me to his lady and to governour Williams,
with whom he had been sitting at breakfast. I was invited to join the
breakfast party, and I spent an hour very agreeably. The colonel had
been a captain in the United States’ army under general Wayne, and
on his arrival in this country, he married a lively, genteel French
woman with a handsome fortune. He quitted the army, and joining the
militia, he is now adjutant general of the territory. He is a fine,
dashing, spirited and friendly Irishman, and has only to be known to be
esteemed.[208]

I forbear mentioning my opinion of the governour, as the curse of party
pervades this territory, as well as every other part of the United
States, and any opinion of a publick character, would not fail to
offend one or the other party.

After resisting a pressing invitation to prolong my visit, I proceeded
on my journey, passing several fine and well cultivated plantations,
the most conspicuous of which were Mr. Burling’s, Sir Wm. Dunbar’s,
Mr. Poindexter’s and Mr. Abner Green’s.[209] I had now come twelve
miles, and it being excessively hot, I stopped at Mr. Green’s to
request some fodder for my horse, to which Mr. Green obligingly added
an invitation to dinner to myself. After dinner, Mr. Green invited me
to look at his garden, which was very spacious, and well stocked with
useful vegetables, and understanding that I had been in the West Indian
islands, he made me observe some ginger in a thriving state, and the
cullaloo or Indian kail, also some very fine plants of Guinea grass,
which he proposes propagating. There was some Guinea corn, and another
kind of corn with a similar stalk and blades, but bearing its seed in a
large close knob, at the extreme top of the stalk. That beautiful shrub
the pomegranate, which, though scarce, seems natural {298} to this soil
and climate, was in great perfection, and several beds were occupied by
very fine strawberry plants, which are also scarce in this country.


FOOTNOTES:

[204] The seat of government for Mississippi Territory was removed
from Natchez to Washington in 1802. Governor Claiborne was authorized
to purchase land for a cantonment, and barracks, which was called Fort
Dearborn. For an interesting description of Washington at an early day,
see Claiborne, _Mississippi_, pp. 258-260.--ED.

[205] General Ezekiel Forman, of New Jersey, secured a Spanish grant
and migrated to the Natchez country in 1789-90. See his nephew’s
journal, _Narrative of a Journey down the Ohio and Mississippi_ (edited
by Lyman C. Draper; Cincinnati, 1888).

Blennerhassett retired to Mississippi after the Richmond trial, and
remained at this plantation, which he called LaCache, until 1819. He
was active in public affairs, serving on the committee of safety in
1813. He removed to Montreal, and later returned to England, dying at
Guernsey in indigent circumstances in 1831. Attempts were made in 1842
to secure restitution for Mrs. Blennerhassett from Congress, but she
died before this could be accomplished.--ED.

[206] Fort Panmure was the British name of the Natchez Post, which had
been called Fort Rosalie by the French. The English garrison found
the latter in a ruinous condition when sent to take possession in
1764. Fort Panmure was the scene of a struggle between English Tories
and American sympathizers in 1778-79. See Claiborne, _Mississippi_,
pp. 117-124. The historical account of Natchez given by Cuming, is
substantially correct. See F. A. Michaux’s _Travels_, vol. iii of this
series, p. 254, note 53.--ED.

[207] Winthrop Sargent was born at Gloucester, Massachusetts, in 1753,
and served under General Knox throughout the Revolution. Shortly after
he became interested in the Ohio Company of Associates, and in 1786
was appointed surveyor therefor. Upon the organization of Northwest
Territory (1787), Sargent was appointed secretary, and continued in
this office until chosen governor of the newly-organized Territory
of Mississippi (1798). Sargent was a man of ability, a scholar, and
a poet; but being a Federalist and of New England austerity, he was
unpopular among his Democratic neighbors, and was removed by Jefferson
in 1801. He died in New Orleans in 1820.--ED.

[208] Colonel William Scott enlisted from Maryland, being at first
ensign (1795), then lieutenant in the third infantry, and captain
(1800). Two years later, he was honorably discharged and retired to
Mississippi. He served as lieutenant-colonel of the Thirty-sixth
Infantry in the War of 1812-15.

Governor Robert Williams was a native of North Carolina, and had served
in Congress and on a commission for adjusting Mississippi land-titles
before he was appointed as governor of the territory (1804). The chief
episode of his term (1805-09) was the apprehension of Burr.--ED.

[209] These were among the most prominent of early Mississippians.

Sir William Dunbar was a Scotchman, who came to America because of
failing health, and embarked in the Indian trade at Fort Pitt in 1771.
Two years later he removed to West Florida, and shortly after settled
at Natchez. Under the Spanish régime he was chief surveyor, and in
1797 boundary commissioner for that power. He was appointed judge of
the first territorial court in 1798. Dunbar was a successful planter,
and had the first screw-press for cotton, in Mississippi. He also had
scientific attainments, and was a member of the American Philosophical
Society. He died in 1810, leaving many descendants.

Abner Green belonged to one of the most prominent Mississippi families.
He was brother of Colonel Thomas Green, first territorial delegate; his
father was a Virginian who came to Natchez under the Spanish régime,
and was influential in having Georgia assert its authority over this
territory. Abner Green was register of probates under the Bourbon
County, Georgia, act, and treasurer-general for the territory in 1801.
He married a daughter of Colonel Anthony Hutchins, and was regarded as
a model planter.

George Poindexter, one of the most able of Mississippi politicians,
was regarded by his enemies as one of the most unscrupulous. A native
of Virginia, he came to Mississippi in 1802. His first public office
was that of attorney-general for the territory, as such conducting
the prosecution of Aaron Burr. Having killed Abijah Hunt, a political
enemy, in a duel, he was nevertheless exonerated by being chosen one
of the territorial judges, which office he conducted with fairness and
ability. In the War of 1812-15, he served as aide to Jackson at New
Orleans, and became one of the general’s warm partisans, defending
him in Congress in 1819. Poindexter was a member of the Mississippi
Constitutional Convention of 1817, and the first representative in
Congress for the new state (1818-20). Upon his return home, he was
elected governor of the State after a campaign of great personal
bitterness, but was defeated in an attempt to secure a second term. In
1830, Poindexter again entered politics, being chosen United States
senator, in which position he attacked Jackson with as much spirit as
he had formerly defended him. Jackson even accused Poindexter of having
instigated an attempt upon his life, but afterwards was convinced of
his error. Poindexter retired from public life in 1835, but for twenty
years longer continued a career of dissipation and excess.--ED.




CHAPTER LI

 An Indian monument--Col. Hutchins--Second creek--The
    Homochito--Buffaloe creek--Long uninhabited wilderness--Remark
    on overseers--Wilkinsonburg and Fort Adams--An old friend--Mr.
    Carey’s--Capt. Semple’s--Pinckneyville.


Leaving Mr. Green’s, I soon after past Mrs. Hutchins’s on the left, in
whose cotton field, at some distance from the road I observed an Indian
mound or barrow, similar to those which one so often meets with in the
vicinity of the Ohio, and of which I have been informed great numbers
are in this country. Mrs. Hutchins is the widow of a col. Hutchins,
who was a half-pay British officer, had considerable landed property,
was very hospitable, and had great influence in the political business
of the territory, which by the manner he used it, acquired him the
character of an ambitious monarchist.[210]

This and all the neighbouring plantations are called the Second
creek settlement from a rivulet of that name which flows from the
eastward towards the Mississippi. The soil is much superiour to that
near Natchez, and the farms are generally the best improved in the
territory. I observed a very handsome coach under a shed near Mrs.
Hutchins’s cottage, which was the only one I had seen in this country.

The road led from hence southerly through pleasant open woods, with
very few plantations in sight, {299} eight miles, to Greaton’s tavern
on the right bank of the Homochito. After putting up my horse, I joined
Mr. Greaton in fishing, he providing me with a rod and line--I was
unsuccessful, but he caught some delicate cat-fish, and four fine carp,
about a pound and a half each. A thunder shower interrupting our sport,
we returned to the house, supped on our fish, coffee, and bread and
butter, and retired for the night.

The Homochito is a beautiful little river of clear water, and a sandy
bottom, here about fifty yards wide. It falls into the Mississippi ten
or twelve miles from hence, on its banks ten miles higher up, is a fine
thriving settlement, called the Jersey settlement, from the inhabitants
having generally emigrated from that state; and 10 miles still higher
or more north easterly, the lake road from Orleans to Natchez crosses
it.

Friday 26th, I was ferried across the Homochito by an old Spaniard, in
a flat which he hauled over by a rope leading through two rollers fixed
on the gunwale. I found the country hilly, but the road was pleasant,
and the soil rich, though thinly inhabited. I had eight miles to Mrs.
Crosby’s, a remarkably fat widow, who keeps a tavern and receives the
toll of a bridge over Buffaloe creek, which is a deep, slow and muddy
little river, joining the Mississippi, six or seven miles from hence,
through a long and extensive swamp. My fat landlady made breakfast for
me, while my horse was feeding, after which I pursued my way to the
left of the swamp, mounting into a hilly country, covered with a thick
cane brake, through which a wagon road is cut in a S. W. direction
eleven miles, without settlement, house or water, in all that distance,
so that it is both fatiguing and dreary.

I emerged from the hills and canes over a small creek, at a fine
plantation of a Mr. Percy. My horse being fatigued, I stopped to
request a little {300} fodder for him, which was accorded with a very
ill grace by the overseer, the proprietor residing at Washington. And
here I will remark that the overseers of plantations in this whole
territory, are for the most part a rough, unpolished, uncouth class of
people, which perhaps proceeds from their being made use of literally
as negro drivers, to keep those unfortunate wretches to their work in
the field, and to correct them for all real or supposed offences.--They
do this with their own hands, and not as in the sugar colonies, by one
of the slaves themselves, appointed for that purpose and called the
driver. This renders them callous to every thing like sentiment or
feeling, and gives them a roughness and abruptness in their manners,
which is extremely disagreeable and disgusting.

A good road with a ridge of hills called Loftus’s heights on the left,
and the swamp which commenced at Buffaloe creek on the right, leads
from hence to Fort Adams in a distance of six miles, there being a
few plantations on both sides of the road, those on the right joining
the swamp, and the left hand ones being on the broken land beyond the
cliffs and hills.[211]

Fort Adams or Wilkinsonburg is a poor little village of a dozen
houses, most of them in decay, hemmed in between the heights and the
river. The fort from whence it derives its first name, is situated on a
bluff overhanging the river, at the extremity of the ridge of Loftus’s
heights. It is about one hundred feet above the ordinary level of the
Mississippi, which is not more than three hundred yards wide here, so
that the fort completely commands it, with several small brass cannon
and two small brass howitzers mounted “en barbette.” The fort which
is faced with brick, has only a level superficies large enough for
one bastion, with a small barrack inside, the {301} whole of which is
commanded by a block-house a hundred and fifty feet higher, on the
sharp peak of a very steep hill, which in time of war might serve as a
look out, as well as a post, as it commands a most extensive view over
the surrounding wilderness of forest, as well as the meanders of the
river for several miles.

The ridge of hills near Natchez, bounds the prospect to the northward,
but there is nothing for the eye to rest on, not even a plantation to
be seen, as they are all veiled by the surrounding forests, the gloom
of which is heightened by the idea, that a principal portion of the
vast tract in sight, is nothing but an unwholesome swamp, which will
cost thousands of lives before it can ever be made habitable, or fit
for cultivation. This is experienced in a great degree at Fort Adams,
which on account of its insalubrity, is deserted by its garrison, a
subaltern with a platoon being left in it, to guard the pass, and
prevent smuggling--while the garrison inhabits a pleasant cantonment
in the hills towards Pinckneyville, about five miles distant. A path
descends gradually from the block-house to the town, along a very
narrow ridge, about the middle of which is the burying place of the
garrison, the graves of the officers being conspicuous by head stones
with the name, rank, and time of decease. Two or three are interred
here who have been shot in duels, to which barbarous custom they are
much addicted in the American army.

There are two gun boats moored a little above the fort, which, with the
long view up the river, and the flat country on the opposite bank put
me in mind of the river Shannon at Tarbet in Ireland; to which however
it is far inferiour in breadth as well as in magnificence, and variety
of scenery. The unhealthiness of its scite is probably the reason that
{302} Wilkinsonburg does not prosper, notwithstanding it is the capital
of a county, and is a post town.

I put up at Marsalis’s tavern, where my old and esteemed friend,
doctor H----, lodged. I found him confined by a severe attack of the
dysentery, which however did not prevent his giving me a cordial and a
joyous welcome. Notwithstanding the poverty of the place, Marsalis gave
us a tolerably good supper, according to the custom of the country, of
coffee, bread and butter, sliced bacon, and a fine dish of gaspar-goo,
the best fish I had yet tasted of the produce of the Mississippi.

Saturday, 27th--My horse being foundered, doctor H---- accommodated me
with another very good one, and after breakfast I proceeded on a good
road to the south-eastward, over the most broken and hilly country I
had yet seen in the territory, it leading sometimes along the brink
of some high and steep precipices, but is kept in good order by the
troops encamped in the neighbourhood. At four miles I kept to the left
towards Pinckneyville, instead of turning to the right to the camp, at
a mile’s distance, as I intended to visit it on my return. I passed two
small plantations near the forks of the road, they being the only ones
between Wilkinsonburg and Mr. Carey’s, which was three miles farther,
the country becoming gradually less broken.

Mr. Carey, to whom I had a letter from H----, received me with cordial
hospitality, but there was nothing strange in that, he being a native
of Erin, that country so noted for this now unfashionable virtue.[212]

{303} After dinner I went half a mile farther to Capt. Robert Semple’s,
brother to my friend Steele Semple, Esq. of Pittsburgh. He was formerly
a captain in the United States’ army, and is now owner of a very fine
plantation, where he resides, living in a style of well regulated,
gentlemanly taste and liberality.--From him and his amiable lady I
experienced a most friendly reception, and remaining with them until
next morning (Sunday, 28th) I proceeded on my route, going back to
Mr. Carey’s. Keeping his plantation on the left, two miles S. S. E.
brought me to Pinckneyville. On arriving at Mr. Carey’s yesterday,
I had got out of the broken hilly country, and I was now in one of
alternate plains and gently sloping hills affording fine situations for
plantations, mostly occupied.

Pinckneyville is a straggling village of ten houses, mostly in decay,
and some of them uninhabited. It is situated on a pleasant sloping
plain, and the surrounding country is comparatively well cultivated. It
has a little church, a tavern, a store and a post-office.


FOOTNOTES:

[210] Colonel Anthony Hutchins, of New Jersey, joined the Sixtieth
Infantry and served under General Amherst in the French and Indian War.
Retired on half-pay, he settled first in North Carolina, then removed
to Natchez in 1772, forming a plantation twelve miles therefrom, at
White Apple village. During the Revolution he was a persistent Tory,
and headed the party which recaptured Fort Panmure in 1782. Upon
the advance of the Spaniards, Hutchins escaped through the woods to
Savannah, going thence to London. He was only permitted to return after
several years of exile. Upon the installation of American government,
Hutchins promptly took the oath of allegiance, dying shortly after
(1804) at an advanced age.--ED.

[211] Loftus Heights was so named from the Indian attack made therefrom
in 1764, upon the British troops under Major Loftus, who were going to
secure the Illinois country. The detachment was obliged to retire to
New Orleans. Fort Adams was built by the orders of Wilkinson in 1798,
and the American troops from Natchez and Vicksburg removed thither.--ED.

[212] Curran, in one of his celebrated speeches, thus beautifully
described the native hospitality of his country:

“The hospitality of other countries is a matter of necessity, or
convention; in savage nations, of the first; in polished, of the
latter: but the hospitality of an Irishman is not the running account
of _posted_ and _ledgered_ courtesies, as in other countries; it
springs like all his other qualities, his faults, his virtues, directly
from the heart. The heart of an Irishman is by nature bold, and he
confides; it is tender, and he loves; it is generous, and he gives; it
is social, and he is hospitable.”--CRAMER.




CHAPTER LII

 Enter West Florida--Fine country--Don Juan O’Connor--A whimsical
    egarement--Capt. Percy--Bayau Sarah--Doctor Flowers--Don Thomas
    Estevan--Mr. Perrie’s--Thompson’s creek--Bad road--Beautiful
    plain--Montesano.


A mile and a half farther, in a S. E. direction, the road crossed
the demarkation line, which divides {304} the Mississippi territory
from the Spanish province of West Florida, at the first house from
Pinckneyville, and the last subject to the United States. The line runs
along the parallel of the 31st degree of north latitude. It was cut
forty feet wide, but it is now scarcely perceptible, from the rapid
growth of trees and shrubs, in the short space of seven or eight years
since it was opened, under the direction of Mr. Ellicot, commissioner
on the part of the United States, and major Minor on the part of
Spain.[213]

I was now in the district of New Feliciana, in the Spanish province of
West Florida. A wagon road through a naturally fine country, with some
small plantations at distances from half a mile to a mile, brought me
in eight miles to Don Juan O’Connor’s. This respectable old gentleman,
to whom I carried a letter of introduction, has a fine estate, and
is building a very large and commodious house, which, when finished,
he intends for the residence of his family now in Philadelphia. He
is held in great estimation by the government, and throughout the
country, where he many years exercised the office of Alcalde, or
chief magistrate of the district; but resigning it on account of his
increasing age, he has been succeeded by his neighbour, Capt. Robert
Percy, formerly of the British navy, a gentleman perfectly well
qualified to execute the office with becoming dignity and propriety.

I remained three days with Mr. O’Connor, at his friendly solicitation,
visited by, and visiting the neighbouring gentry of this rich and
hospitable country, during which time a laughable incident happened.

Accompanying Mr. O’Connor to Capt. Percy’s, a distance of only two
miles, through the lands of the two gentlemen, Mr. O’C. conducted me
through the woods by a bridle path, instead of keeping the main road,
for the purpose of seeing some of his people, who were sawing timber.
After riding in different {305} directions for some time without
finding them, he at last gave up the attempt, saying we would now
take a path which would soon bring us into the road. The sun being
overcast, the old gentleman soon lost his direction in a labyrinth of
cattle paths, by which we got involved sometimes in a thick cane brake,
and sometimes in a copse of briars. I saw he was astray, but without
seeming to perceive it, I followed him, chattering on indifferent
subjects. At last despair of extricating us conquering his shame of
acknowledging himself lost in his own woods--he suddenly exclaimed,
“Where is your pocket compass?”--I answered that accompanying him so
short a distance on his own ground, I had not thought it necessary to
bring it. “You should always carry it in this country,” exclaimed he,
a little pettishly. “What course do you wish to go?” said I--“N. E.”
replied he, “ought to bring us into the main road.”--“Well,” said I,
“let us leave the mossy side of the trees on our left shoulder.”

Following my advice, we soon heard some one at a distance singing
loudly. We took the direction of the voice, and soon afterwards found
the wagon road, after wandering above two hours in search of it. Mr.
O’Connor’s relating the story good humouredly at Capt. Percy’s did
not prevent his being rallied a good deal about it, and it spreading,
became a standing subject of laugh against him, among his surrounding
friends. The day after this, as I was accompanying Mr. O’C. and some
of his neighbours to a militia muster, my horse took fright, at my
suddenly raising my umbrella during a shower, and plunging violently,
he threw me on my head, but without doing me any other injury than
dirtying me all over.

On Thursday, 1st September, I left Mr. O’Connor’s after breakfast, with
the intention of pursuing my journey, but calling at Capt. Percy’s, he
said it was his birth day, and that I must spend it with him, {306} and
that he had sent for Mr. O’C. for the same purpose.

This was truly an agreeable day to me, it being devoted to social
converse without ceremony, while the well regulated and liberal
domestick arrangements of the amiable and well informed lady of our
friendly host, recalled to my mind the elegant refinement I had so
often enjoyed in the society of her fair countrywomen, during my
residence in Scotland. To her engaging native manners, Mrs. Percy adds
the advantages of a long residence in London, where she seems to have
grafted on her native stock, such exotick knowledge only, as could
farther expand a mind, already adorned both by nature and art.

Next day, Friday, 2d September, my worthy host and hostess, after
exacting a promise from me, that I should make their house my family’s
home, until fully provided in one myself, should I choose that part
of the country for my future place of residence, accompanied me on
my way, fording Bayau Sarah, which is about thirty yards wide, to
the plantation of Mr. Sweezey, a mile distant, where a child being
dangerously ill of a fever, Mrs. Percy had for several days before, and
even nights, aided the disconsolate mother in the duties of nursing,
while her humane and friendly husband prescribed and dispensed the
necessary medicine in the absence of the physician--none living nearer
than six or eight miles. Indeed he adds the gratuitous practice of
physician and apothecary to the office of chief magistrate, and he is
equally useful in each department to the surrounding country, while his
amiable lady performs the part of a real Lady Bountiful, with judgement
and true benevolence.

Capt. Percy rode with me about five miles farther, to shew me a tract
of land he had in his disposal, on which he wished me to settle, and
another, the property of Mr. Cochran of Bayau Pierre, which had {307}
been offered for sale. He then bade me adieu, and I went on alone,
passing Mr. Sterling’s and doctor Bruin’s, and proceeding to the
southward four miles farther, I arrived and stopped at doctor Flowers’s.

The doctor was absent, but Mrs. Flowers did the honours of her house
to me, with the most pleasing attention, and he returning home in the
evening confirmed the kind welcome I had received, and to which I was
in no other way entitled than, in addition to my being a stranger
(which about Bayau Sarah seems to be a general passport to hospitality)
I had a letter of introduction from my valuable and respected friend,
judge Bruin, whose name, where he is known, opens every door.

The next two days were spent chiefly at doctor Flowers’s, and in riding
about the neighbouring country, during which I visited Mr. William
Barrow, who has a very handsome house, a noble plantation of about
four hundred acres of cotton all in one field, and a hundred and fifty
negroes. I also accompanied the doctor to pay my compliments to Don
Thomas Estevan, lately appointed commandant of New Feliciana, with full
powers to act for the governour. He received me very politely, and
appeared to be a man of pleasing manners, and good general information,
although I was informed that he had risen from the rank of a private
in the army, to his present situation. That, however, is a very common
thing in the Spanish service, where merit is sure of being rewarded,
without the aid of money or great connexions, notwithstanding the
character for pride which that nation is taxed with.[214]

On Monday, the 5th September, I proceeded on my tour, crossing
Alexander’s creek, an inconsiderable stream, and having a good road
to the eastward, through a forest abounding with that beautiful and
majestick evergreen, the magnolia or American laurel, six or seven
miles to Mr. Perrie’s. He was {308} absent until supper time, previous
to which I amused myself with walking about his fine plantation, and
the best garden I had yet seen in this country. A letter from doctor
Flowers insured me a friendly reception, and I passed the night here.

Mr. Perrie is a native of Fifeshire in Scotland, was a millwright, by
which profession, aided by an advantageous matrimonial connexion, he
now possesses a hundred negroes, and is alcalde of the quarter--yet
he would gladly remove to the land of his nativity, if he could do it
conveniently.

Tuesday 6th, a good road through open woods brought me in six miles to
Doyle’s, from whence, fording Thompson’s creek, (a fine little river
sixty yards wide) I stopped at Horton’s tavern, on the opposite side.
Mr. Murdoch, the proprietor, from whom Horton rents the house and
adjoining plantation, but who reserves a room for himself, having seen
me at Mr. O’Connor’s, politely asked me to stay breakfast, after which
I proceeded.

All the tract of country from Pinckneyville to near Thompson’s creek,
being watered by Bayau Sarah, or some of its tributary streams, is
most generally known by the name of the Bayau Sarah settlements, and
is part in the United States and part in the Spanish territory. It is
esteemed as the finest soil, the best cultivated, and inhabited by the
most wealthy settlers, of any part of the Mississippi territory or West
Florida, but the land appeared to be liable to have its soil washed
away, so as to lose it entirely in a few years after clearing it, on
all the declivities. It is on the whole however, a charming country.

My road now led through a thick wood, much impeded by copse and briers,
and it being a dead flat, the whole of it was a complete slough, in
some places deep enough to mire my horse to the saddle skirts for
several hundred yards together, so that I made slow progress, for the
first six miles, in an easterly {309} direction, which had been the
course of the road from doctor Flowers’s.

I met a man on foot, of a very suspicious appearance, labouring through
the mire. He was a stout active fellow, very ragged, and his face
disfigured by a large scar across his mouth. I passed him however
peaceably, and soon after leaving a Mr. Carter’s plantation on the
right, I entered the most beautiful plain I had seen in this country.
It was a savanna or prairie, about six miles long, and from half a mile
to a mile wide, skirted by woods, and a few plantations, and abounding
with clumps of oak, ash, mulberry, poplar and other indigenous trees,
affording between them beautiful vistas of various character, while
large herds of cattle and horses appeared here and there, to enliven
the scene, which had additional interest from two men galloping after
and noosing some wild horses.

I stopped and dined at the house of Richard Dewal, esq. on the plain.
Mr. Dewal is an Englishman, and alcalde of the quarter. He was absent,
but Mrs. Dewal received me with politeness and hospitality.

Leaving the plain, the road soon became as bad as possible, to be
capable of being travelled. Three and a half miles of it brought me to
Droghen’s plantation in a wretched solitude, from whence I had five
miles farther of equally bad road, without an inhabitant to Fridges, a
Scotchman. In the next three miles I passed three plantations, and then
came to the bank of the Mississippi at Mrs. O’Brien’s very pleasantly
situated farm, from whence is a view down the river past Montesano to
Baton Rouge.

A mile farther, parallel to the river bank, brought me to Montesano.
This has been lately laid out for a town by Mr. Wm. Herreis from
London, who is the proprietor, but I do not think he will succeed
in his plan, as the country around is not sufficiently inhabited to
support a town, and besides it is too near {310} to Baton Rouge, the
seat of government, of the western division of West Florida. There is
some prospect of his succeeding better in a saw and grist mill he is
erecting, which is to be wrought by steam. It is on a large scale, and
a vast deal of money has already been laid out on it (I have been
informed, upwards of thirty thousand dollars) yet it does not seem to
be in great forwardness.[215]

It is called only four miles from hence to Baton Rouge, but the badness
of the road made me think it eight, perhaps six may be the true
distance. I passed some small neglected French plantations on the left
on the summit of a range of low hills, which extend from Montesano,
while on the right I had a swamp, out of which the cypress has been
cut, between me and the river, the road being very bad, through a
natural savanna of coarse grass, intersected by deep ravines, and miry
sloughs.


FOOTNOTES:

[213] Andrew Ellicott was an American engineer of note. Born in
Pennsylvania (1754) of Quaker ancestry, he passed his early life
in Maryland, devoting himself especially to mathematical studies.
In Baltimore and Philadelphia he became a friend of Washington and
Franklin; and at their suggestion was employed to define the boundary
between Virginia and Pennsylvania, and later that between New York
and Pennsylvania. In 1792, he was appointed surveyor-general of the
United States. He also assisted in laying out the national capital.
While acting as commissioner for adjusting the southern boundary
of the United States with Spain, according to the treaty of 1795,
Ellicott encountered serious diplomatic difficulties, and alienated a
party of the English inhabitants of the Natchez district. Claiborne’s
animadversions, however, in his _Mississippi_, seem hardly borne
out by the facts. In 1808, Ellicott was appointed secretary of
the Pennsylvania land-office; and four years later, professor of
mathematics at West Point, where he died in 1820. His journal during
his employment in the Southwest, is valuable as a record of conditions
in that region.

Stephen Minor was a Pennsylvanian by birth, educated at Princeton,
and early came west to explore the new country. At St. Louis he
was persuaded to convey some dispatches to the governor-general of
Louisiana at New Orleans, who, fancying the frank but politic young
American, offered him a position in the Spanish army. Minor served
the Spaniards with address and fidelity. Taking no advantage of his
position, he remained loyal to Spain, at the same time becoming popular
with the English-speaking inhabitants of the Natchez district, where he
was stationed. He was finally promoted to the governorship of Natchez,
which he retained until its surrender to the United States (1798), when
he became an American citizen, and died at Concord, Mississippi.--ED.

[214] The province of West Florida was settled during the British
occupation (1764-83), and its population was of the same character as
that of Mississippi, to the north of it--chiefly American colonists
with an admixture of English, Irish, and Scotch emigrants. Feliciana
was not erected into a Louisiana parish until 1811, but under the
Spanish régime was made a district subordinate to the Baton Rouge
province. In 1810 the inhabitants threw off the yoke of Spain, and
declared themselves annexed to Louisiana.

William Barrow came to West Florida about 1795, entered land under a
Spanish grant, and developed a fine plantation. His descendants have
been prominent citizens of the district.--ED.

[215] It may be observed here that the steam power used by Mr. Herreis
(as I am informed) is on the English principle, which is said to
cost much more than the improved steam power by Oliver Evans, of
Philadelphia which costs for a thirty horse power about three thousand
dollars. It is said that a Mr. Cohoon, of the state of New York, has
even simplified Mr. Evans’s steam principle, so much that a thirty
horse power will not cost more than twelve hundred dollars for its
complete erection.--CRAMER.




CHAPTER LIII

 Baton Rouge--Gumbo--An Irish-French-Spaniard--The governour--Mrs.
    O’Brien’s--Journey on return--An American camp--Extensive
    prospect--Tomlinson’s.


Arriving at Baton Rouge, on enquiry I was informed that Madame Le
Gendre’s was the {311} most respectable auberge, I accordingly stopt
there, and found a number of genteel men, Frenchmen, Spaniards, English
and Americans, with about a dozen of whom I sat down to supper, quite
_a la Française_. The table was well covered with different made
dishes, and a variety of vegetables, among which the most conspicuous,
was a large dish of gumbo, served by the hostess at the head, which
seemed to be a standing dish, and much in repute, as almost every one
was helped to it. It is made by boiling ocroc until it is tender, and
seasoning it with a little bit of fat bacon. It then becomes so ropy
and slimy as to make it difficult with either knife, spoon or fork, to
carry it to the mouth, without the plate and mouth being connected by
a long string, so that it is a most awkward dish to a stranger, who
besides, seldom relishes it, but it is a standing dish among the French
creoles, as much as soup and bouilli is in France, or the _olla_ in
Spain.

A bed was prepared for me in the front gallery or piazza, where Madame
Le Gendre assured me I should be less troubled with musquitoes than
in the interior of the house, and that I should also find it more
cool and agreeable. I mention this as a _trait_ of French character,
particularly the female, to make a virtue of necessity, and to
turn even their inconveniences to advantage, for notwithstanding
her assertion that it was solely _pour l’accommodation de Mons.
l’Etranger_, had there been any other place for a bed in her small
house, one would not have been prepared for me in the gallery. The
musquitoes were sufficiently ennuyants to make me rejoice at perceiving
the first dawn of day, when I hurried on my clothes, and sallied
out to view the seat of government of the western division of West
Florida.[216]

About half a dozen tolerably good frame (or wooden) houses scattered
on an extensive plain surrounded on three sides by woods at a little
distance, first {312} made their appearance, while a dirty little town
of 60 cabins crouded together in a narrow street on the river bank,
penned in between the Mississippi and a low steep hill descending from
the plain, filled up the fourth side. I walked through the village--it
is a right French one--almost every other house being a petty shop for
the sale of bread, tobacco, pumpkins and taffia (or bad rum) distilled
at the sugar plantations a little lower down the river. It is matter
of astonishment how so many shops of the same kind find customers. I
observed two tolerably well assorted stores, one kept by a Frenchman,
the other by Mr. Egan, an Irishman, to whom I carried an introductory
letter from Mr. O’Connor, which ensured me a friendly and hospitable
welcome.

I breakfasted with him, and then went to view the fort on the plain
above the north end of the town. It is a regular square with four small
bastions at the angles. The ramparts are composed of earth thrown up
out of a small dry ditch or fosse which surrounds it, and are crowned
by a stoccade of pickets. A few small guns mounted, point to the
different approaches, and also command the river, but it is a work
of very little strength, and not capable of much defence against a
prepared enemy.

I returned to my friend Egan’s, who accompanied me to the house of Don
Gilbert Leonard, the contador (or collector) to whom I had letters
of introduction. The affectation of importance which this gentleman
attached to his offer of accompanying me to government house, as soon
as his _excellency the governour_ should be visible, was matter of
amusement to me, who had been accustomed to see less ceremony observed
in introductions to men of infinitely greater importance. He excused
himself from asking me to dine with him, as he said his family were
all indisposed, but any other time that I should be in Baton Rouge,
he hoped to have that pleasure. He promised {313} to call on me about
eleven o’clock at Mr. Egan’s, as soon as he had made himself up for
a visit to the governour, and he begged leave to retire to dress,
although the changing of a silk morning or dressing gown for a coat,
was all that was necessary, he having evidently bestowed some time on
his person just before our arrival.

During the short time we remained at his house, Don Gilbert led the
discourse to the politicks of the day, reprobating in most warm terms,
the folly of the Spaniards for endeavouring to emancipate themselves
from the chains of Napoleon--ascribing it to their being instigated
to it by the artifices of that enemy of mankind _Britain_, to which
country he declared himself a sworn enemy. It is worthy of remark,
that all this opinionated and ill informed self consequence, proceeded
from a son of Irish parents, who had arisen to his present station in
a Spanish provincial government, from an obscure situation in life,
by a chain of fortuitous circumstances. As he had volunteered himself
to be my Ciceroni to the governour, I awaited him at Mr. Egan’s some
time later than the appointed hour, which tardiness was of course to
give the visit additional consequence. We at last proceeded together,
and not finding the governour at home, I told him, I would put him to
no farther trouble, but would myself wait upon his excellency on his
return from his promenade.--He made his bow, and I was again a free man.

About one o’clock, I found the governour, Don Carlos de Grand Pré at
home. He gave me a polite reception, and while his written permission
to remain six months in the country (a ceremony all strangers are
obliged to go through, previous to making a permanent settlement) was
preparing, he entered into a conversation on agricultural topicks, and
appeared to be a well informed, and well bred man. He avoided touching
on politicks, but Don Gilbert’s sentiments on {314} that subject
are supposed to be his, he being a native of France, and of course
naturally partial to his country, whether ruled by a Capet, by a mob,
or by a Napoleon.[217]

After a friendly and unceremonious dinner with Mr. Egan, I left Baton
Rouge on my return, not having any curiosity to explore any more of the
country than I had hitherto seen, the cream of which I considered to be
the Bayau Sarah settlements.

Returning again through Montesano, I arrived at Mrs. O’Brien’s a little
before dark. It being too late to proceed any farther that night, I
stopped and requested room for myself and horse until morning. My
request was complied with according to the general custom of the
country, but in such polite terms, and it introduced me to so agreeable
a society at supper, that I congratulated myself for not having had
time to go farther. The family consisted of Mrs. O’Brien herself, and
her daughters Mrs. Flood, wife of doctor Flood of New Orleans, Mrs.
Saunders, and Miss O’Brien. Two gentlemen from Orleans joined us after
supper, which was an additional motive for self-congratulation. As they
were travelling my road. They as well as me were strangers to Mrs. O’B.

It is impossible to travel in any part of this new country after dark,
as the roads are only bridle paths, which are so darkened by the woods
through which they lead, that the adventurous traveller must inevitably
lose himself.

On Thursday, 8th September, I proceeded with my two companions before
the family were stirring, and we arrived at Mr. Duwal’s on the Great
Prairie, time enough to sit down with the family to breakfast. We
afterwards stopped to bait at Mr. Carters, and then went on cross
Thompson’s creek to Mr. Perry’s, where we found Messrs. Duncan and
Gamble, lawyers from New Orleans, at dinner. Chairs were placed for us
of course, and after partaking of Mr. Perry’s hospitable {315} meal,
I went on to doctor Flowers’s--separating from my companions, who had
each different friends to visit in that part of the country.

Next day, the 9th September, I went to Capt. Percy’s to dinner, and
spent the remainder of that day and night there, and on the 10th, after
dining at Mr. O’Connor’s I retraced my journey across the line into the
Mississippi Territory, and passing through Pinckneyville, I entered
Capt. Semple’s plantation, and rode nearly two miles through it before
I came to the house of the proprietor--passing in the way two different
negro quarters, and the whole road resembling several I have known
through the demesnes of the nobility in Europe, in its variety--through
woods, lawns, pastures and cultivated fields, on the whole the most
beautiful plantation to ride through of any I had hitherto seen in this
western country.

I had to regret the absence of my hospitable host and hostess, who were
on a visit at Mrs. Trumbull’s, Mrs. Semple’s mother. I was however well
taken care of--and proceeding next morning, I deviated a little from
the road to visit the camp. As I approached it I met several negroes
returning home from a market which is kept there every Sunday morning.
On my arrival I was much surprised with a village, differing from any I
had ever before seen. Twenty-four large huts faced a wide open space
cleared for a parade, in front of which is held the market. In the rear
of these, with a narrow street between, are ten very snug and well
furnished cottages, appropriated for the officers, who reside in them,
some with their families, and some _en garçon_. But the most remarkable
circumstance is that the whole camp is constructed with cane (the large
reed) in such a manner as to render every dwelling perfectly tight and
warm. They are all floored with plank, and the officers’ quarters are
glazed, and have each a little {316} garden; and there runs through
the whole an air of neatness, propriety, and cleanliness, that I have
seldom seen surpassed. The situation is on the slope of a very high
hill, and the whole country for some miles round, particularly towards
the Mississippi, is nothing but a continuation of steep and broken
hills, covered with forest timber, and an impenetrable cane brake,
except in a few places, where some adventurous settler has found a
small spot, not too steep for the plough, or where narrow paths of
communication have been cut through the canes.

Having gratified my curiosity with a view of this little encampment, I
went on to Wilkinsonburg, and spent the rest of the day with my friend
H----.

On Monday, the 12th September, proceeding at early dawn, I took a wrong
trace about five miles from Fort Adams, by which I was taken two or
three miles out of my road, but coming to a plantation, I had some
compensation made me for my _egarement_, by receiving directions for
another road to Buffaloe creek, by which I cut off five miles, with the
additional satisfaction of having only eight miles without a house,
instead of twelve by the main road. I had hills on my right hand,
covered with the usual variety of forest trees, and a thick cane brake
underneath, while on my left, a gloomy and malignant swamp extended
to the Mississippi, some miles distant. I breakfasted at Smith’s who
keeps a tavern, and a ferry over Buffaloe creek, three miles below
the toll bridge on the other road. I had three short miles of a bad
and miry road to Ellis’s plantation, and four from thence along a
ridge to major Davis’s, where I again came into the main road. A mile
farther brought me to Big Jude’s, a free negro woman, settled on one
side of a broken plain, which seems to have been a plantation at some
distant period back, but by the washing away of the soil, it now only
affords nourishment to a short herbage, {317} seemingly very proper
for sheep. From hence is a very extensive view over the surrounding
forests--in which far to the westward may be seen a line formed by
the Mississippi, making a great curve that way. Ellis’s heights and
the chain of hills running from thence to the eastward of Natchez
terminate the view to the northward, while Loftus’s heights do the same
to the southward. Extensive prospects occur so rarely in this country
of forests, that when a traveller happens to meet with one, he feels
wonderfully cheered, although he sees nothing but a horizon of woods,
which, particularly when without their leaf, in the winter season, have
a very sombre and gloomy appearance, a little inequality of horizon
where a hill happens to bound the view, being the only variety; but
after emerging from the thick forests and cane brakes, in which he has
been long buried, he feels an expansion of the whole system which is
extremely pleasing.

The road is hilly but good, through a pleasant wood, chiefly of that
superb tree the magnolia or American laurel, clear of underwood and
cane, and passing several small plantations four or five miles from
Jude’s to the Homochito.

Being ferried across that charming little river, I had a good road
through a pleasant country tolerably well settled five miles to Mr.
Tomlinson’s. I had a letter to him from my friend H----, which was
no sooner delivered, than both he and Mrs. T. vied with each other in
their friendly attentions to me. They insisted on my not going farther
that night, and manifested the greatest friendship for the writer of my
introductory letter, by the warmth and kindness of their hospitality to
me.


FOOTNOTES:

[216] The name Baton Rouge (Red Stick) is supposed to have been
derived from a tall cypress tree, which, having been stripped by the
lightning to its red wood, formed a prominent landmark. The town was
first settled by the French about 1720, but remained an inconsiderable
hamlet, even after the accession of eighty Acadians (about 1730). The
British, while in control of West Florida, built a fort and established
a garrison here, which was surrendered by Colonel Dickson to the
victorious Spanish under Galvez, in 1779. Baton Rouge was incorporated
as an American town in 1817, and became the capital of Louisiana in
1850.--ED.

[217] Don Carlos de Grandpré was a Frenchman, who held important
positions in the Spanish service. In 1779, he aided Galvez in his
capture of British Florida, and was left by the latter in command of
the fort at Baton Rouge. In 1788, he commanded the Natchez district,
but made himself unpopular to the American inhabitants, whereupon he
was superseded by Gayoso de Lemos. Upon the latter’s promotion to the
governorship of Louisiana, Grandpré was again detailed for Natchez; but
on account of the protests of the inhabitants, was removed in favor of
Minor. When Louisiana was transferred to the United States, Grandpré
was commandant at Baton Rouge. The American inhabitants of this
district began a revolt, which Grandpré severely repressed. Upon the
successful revolt of the same province in 1810, a son of the commandant
was killed while defending the post of Baton Rouge. During the British
advance against New Orleans, Grandpré sided with his former enemies,
and boarded one of their warships. His later history is unknown.--ED.




{318} CHAPTER LIV

 Return to the northward through Natchez, Greenville and Port
    Gibson--Bayau Pierre--General remarks on climate, soil, water, face
    of the country, manners, productions, &c.


On Tuesday, 13th September, I set out early, after returning thanks
to my kind host and hostess. At two miles I passed Mrs. Hutchinson’s
on the right; one mile farther, Mr. Abner Green’s on the left; three
quarters of a mile beyond which, I left Mr. Poindexter’s, member of
congress from this territory, on the right.

I stopped for a few minutes at Mr. Dunbar’s--sometimes known and
addressed by the title of Sir William Dunbar, I know not on what
foundation. He is a native of Scotland--is a gentleman of literature
and philosophical research--is esteemed rich--and occupies one of the
most tasty and best furnished cottages I have seen in the territory.

Passing three or four other large plantations in sight of the road, six
miles more brought me to St. Catharine’s creek, now an inconsiderable
brook, but in floods an impassable torrent; crossing which I had two
miles and a half to Col. William Scott’s, where I stopped and dined
with Mrs. Scott, the Col. being from home.

After dinner, taking the road through Natchez, I went to Mr.
Blennerhasset’s, where I supped and slept.

Wednesday, 14th, after breakfast, Mr. Blennerhasset accompanied me to
Natchez, where we made a few visits, in doing which we called on Mr.
Evans, whose niece, Mrs. Wallace, a young and gay widow, and his eldest
daughter, favoured us with a few tunes on an organ, built for him by
one Hurdis, an English musical instrument maker and teacher of musick,
{319} then residing in Natchez. The instrument was tolerably good, and
ought to be so, as it has cost one thousand dollars.

I returned home with Mr. Blennerhasset, and next morning very early,
proceeded through Washington, Sulserstown and Uniontown to Greenville,
and from thence by a tolerably good road, in a northerly direction,
twelve miles to Trimble’s tavern, where I put up for the night. I was
much impeded in my progress for the last two miles, by the effects of
a hurricane, which had happened about a year before, and which had
blown down by the roots, or broken off the tops of all the trees in
its way--levelling every cabin and fence that opposed its passage, but
like the generality of the hurricanes (which happen frequently in this
climate and always from the westward) not exceeding half a mile in
breadth. Trimble’s family had like to have been buried under the ruins
of their cabin, not having had over a minute to escape to the outside,
and throw themselves flat on the ground, when it was blown down.
Those gusts are very tremendous, being always accompanied by thunder,
lightning, and torrents of rain, but from running in such narrow veins,
they are very partial, and therefore not so much dreaded as those
general ones which sometimes devastate the West India islands.

Next day I proceeded nine miles in a northerly direction to Port
Gibson, on a western branch of the Bayau Pierre. This little town of
twenty houses is the capital of Claiborne county, and is esteemed the
most thriving place in the territory, notwithstanding it is extremely
unhealthy, from the proximity of some stagnant ponds, and the annual
inundation of the Mississippi, which swells Bayau Pierre and causes it
to stagnate for from four to six months, every year. The ponds might be
drained, were the inhabitants not so entirely occupied by business and
{320} pleasure, to which two pursuits they devote the whole of their
time.

It is thirty miles from Port Gibson to the Mississippi, following
the windings of the Bayau Pierre, through a very hilly and broken
country, but it is only fourteen miles by the road. As when the waters
are up the bayau is navigable for large craft, that season is the
most bustling time in Port Gibson, the storekeepers then importing
goods and exporting cotton. On the subsiding of the waters, the
sickly season commences, and lasts with little variation from July
to October, inclusive. This is more or less the case over the whole
territory, particularly on the banks of the Mississippi, and in the
neighbourhood of swamps and stagnant ponds. The driest seasons are the
most unhealthy. The prevailing malady is a fever of the intermittent
species, sometimes accompanied by ague, and sometimes not. It is rarely
fatal in itself, but its consequences are dreadful, as it frequently
lasts five or six months in defiance of medicine, and leaves the
patient in so relaxed and debilitated a state, that he never after
regains the strength he had lost. It also frequently terminates in
jaundice or dropsy, which sometimes prove fatal.

All newcomers are subject to what is called a seasoning, after which,
though they may be annually attacked by this scourge of the climate, it
rarely confines them longer than a few days. Every house in Port Gibson
is either a store, a tavern, or the workshop of a mechanick. There is
a very mean gaol, and an equally bad court-house, though both are much
in use, particularly the latter, as, like the United States in general,
the people are fond of litigation. Gambling is carried to the greatest
excess, particularly horse racing, cards and betting--a wager always
deciding every difference of opinion. On the whole, Port Gibson and its
neighbourhood is {321} perhaps the most dissolute as well as the most
thriving part of the territory.

I dined at my friend doctor Cummin’s,[218] who lives on his fine
plantation near the town, and taking a S. W. road of thirteen miles, I
arrived in the evening at Bruinsburg.

I shall here conclude my tour, with a few general observations.

The climate of this territory is very unequal, between excess of
heat during the principal part of the year, when the inhabitants are
devoured by musquitoes, gnats and sand-flies, to excess of cold, in
the winter nights and mornings, when a good fire, and plenty of warm
woollen clothing are indispensibly necessary, though the middle of the
day is frequently warm enough for muslin and nankeen dresses to suffice.

The soil is as various as the climate. The river bottoms generally,
and some of the cane brake hills, not being exceeded for richness in
the world, while some ridges and tracts of country after being cleared
and cultivated for a few years, are so exhausted, as to become almost
barren.

Water is very partially distributed--it being scarce, unpleasant,
and unwholesome, within seven or eight miles of the Mississippi--and
it being fine and in abundance from that to the eastward to the pine
woods, which generally begin at from fifteen to twenty miles distance
from the river.

The face of the country is also much diversified--a dead swampy but
very rich level borders the Mississippi the whole length of the
territory and West Florida, from the Walnut hills to Baton Rouge, with
the exception of some ends of ridges, or bluffs as they are called,
at the Walnut hills, the Grand and Petit gulphs--Natchez and Baton
Rouge. The flat or bottom is in general about two miles broad, though
in some places nine or ten. The different water courses, {322} which
run mostly into the Mississippi from the eastward have each their
bottom lands of various breadths, but all comparatively much narrower
than those of the Mississippi. The intervals are composed of chains
of steep, high and broken hills, some cultivated, some covered with a
thick cane brake, and forest trees of various descriptions, and others
with beautiful open woods devoid of underwood. Some are evergreen with
laurel and holly, and some, where the oak, walnut and poplar are the
most predominant; being wholly brown in the winter, at which season
others again are mixed, and at the fall of the leaf display a variety
of colouring, green, brown, yellow and red.

On approaching the pine woods, the fertility of the soil ceases, but
the climate becomes much more salubrious--that will however never draw
inhabitants to it while a foot of cane brake land or river bottom
remains to be settled.

The pine woods form a barrier between the Choctaw nation and the
inhabitants of the Mississippi territory, which however does not
prevent the Indians from bringing their squaws every fall and
winter to aid in gathering in the cotton crop, for which they are
paid in blankets, stroud, (a blue cloth used by them for clothing)
handkerchiefs, and worsted binding of various colours, besides other
articles of manufactured goods, which are charged to them at most
exorbitant prices.

The cotton crop requiring constant attention, and children being
useful in gathering it, the bulk of the inhabitants cannot afford
to spare the labour of their children, so that education is almost
totally neglected, and perhaps there are few people, a degree above
the savage, more completely destitute of literary acquirements. But as
they grow up, they can find time for attendance at courts of law, horse
races, and festive, or rather bacchanalian meetings at taverns, where
bad whiskey is drank to the greatest excess. Notwithstanding {323}
this proneness to dissipation, to the neglect of manners, morals and
property, there is a semblance of religion, so that any noisy sectarian
preacher may always be sure of having a congregation, if his time of
preaching is known a day beforehand.

With respect to the productions of the territory, cotton is the
staple, and since the disappearance of specie it serves in lieu of
money. The river bottom lands generally yield from eighteen hundred to
two thousand pounds to the acre, the uplands about a thousand. Maize
or Indian corn is produced on new land in the ratio of seventy or
eighty bushels per acre, well attended. Horses, horned cattle, hogs
and poultry might be raised in any quantity, yet cotton so entirely
engrosses the planters, that they are obliged to Kentucky for their
principal supply of horses and pork and bacon.

Wheat would grow well, but it is not attended to, so that all the wheat
flour used, comes down the Mississippi. The middle states supply a
quantity of salted beef, and the southern ones rice, which might also
be raised abundantly.

When not destroyed by a frost in April, there are abundance of early
apples and peaches; but the climate is too cold in winter for the
orange or lemon to the northward of La Fourche, on the Mississippi,
below Baton Rouge.

The woods abound with bear and deer, which are sometimes killed and
sold by the Indian and white hunters. Wild turkeys on the hills, and
water fowl of every description in the swamps are abundant, besides
smaller game both four footed and feathered of various descriptions.
But the chase, either with dogs or the gun is so laborious an
occupation, from the difficulty of getting through the cane brakes
and underwood, that one seldom meets with game at the tables of the
planters.

{324} The Mississippi, the smaller water courses, the lakes and ponds
abound with cat-fish of a superiour quality, and a variety of much more
delicate and finer fish, yet one seldom meets with them, any more than
with game.

In short, the tables of all classes of people have as little variety to
boast of as those of any other civilized people in the world. Coffee,
although double the price that it is bought for at New Orleans, is by
custom become an article of the first necessity, which the wife of the
poorest planter cannot do without, and it is of course the most common
breakfast. Milk is used to excess, which I have reason to think is an
additional cause of the prevalence of bilious disorders.

Proper care and conduct, might in some degree correct or guard against
the effects of the climate, and prudence and a well regulated economy,
might procure to the inhabitants of the Mississippi territory, almost
every comfort, convenience and delicacy, enjoyed in the most favoured
countries upon earth.


END OF MR. CUMING’S TOUR


FOOTNOTES:

[218] Dr. John Cummins was born in Westmoreland County, Pennsylvania,
in 1780. Having studied medicine with Dr. Rush of Philadelphia, he
emigrated to Mississippi Territory to engage in the practice of his
profession, settling first at Port Gibson; later having married a
daughter of Judge Bruin (1804) he removed to the plantation on Bayou
Pierre, where Cuming visited him. He endorsed heavily for Burr and
Blennerhassett, losing by them about $65,000. Burr’s maps left in his
care are important evidence of the destination of his expedition. Dr.
Cummins was called to Richmond in order to testify at the Burr trial,
and afterwards attempted to recover some of the money he had lost,
but with no success. Removing to the parish of Concordia, Louisiana,
he lived the life of a wealthy cultivated planter--being especially
interested in literature--until his death in 1822. The details of his
history have been kindly furnished by his granddaughter, Mrs. T. C.
Wordin, of Bridgeport, Connecticut.--ED.




 _{325} In order to complete the description of the Mississippi, we
 subjoin the following, being Extracts of Notes of a voyage from
 Pittsburgh to New Orleans, thence by sea to Philadelphia, in the
 year 1799, made by a gentleman of accurate observation, a passenger
 in a New Orleans boat, who has been polite enough to grant us his
 manuscript for this purpose.

 Mr. Cuming having stopped at the Bayau Pierre, we commence this
 narrative a little above that river, in order to shew the state of the
 settlements of the country at that time._


February 9. This evening we made a good landing on the Spanish shore,
with the river even with the top of the bank. When we had got our boat
tied to a tree, I took a walk on the shore, and found it covered with
herbs, briers, blackberries and oak trees, all in leaf. I measured the
leaf of a sycamore tree and it was twenty inches over. The evening was
calm and clear, but the air rather cool, the new moon looked beautiful.

Feb. 10. We proceeded early and got ten miles before sunrise. At half
past one o’clock we came to a part of the river where some little time
before there had been a hurricane; it overspread an extent of about
half a mile in breadth, and crossed the river in two places about one
league apart. The tops of the trees had been twisted off, others torn
up by the roots and hurled into the river, some lying with their roots
above the bank, and their tops in the river. The route it had taken
was clearly perceptible, and how far it extended on each hand. Its
appearance was like the wreck of creation, or the subsiding of some
general deluge. Over this whole extent there was not the least vestige
of a tree left, the deserted stumps excepted. At four o’clock, after
taking a circuitous {326} route in a very long bend of the river, the
vestiges of this hurricane again appeared. It had taken a north east
course, spreading destruction in its train; even the elastick cane
brakes were torn up and extirpated.

Feb. 11. At half past seven arrived at the mouth of the Yazoo river.
It has a beautiful appearance, rising in the mountains of Georgia, and
taking a south west course, empties itself here. Our expectations were
now raised on seeing once more the dwellings of men, having floated
_six hundred miles_ through savage nations, without seeing a dwelling
of civilized people, and were not a little pleased with discovering
over the tops of the trees at a remote distance the Walnut hills, upon
which is a garrison and some dwellings of United States’ citizens.
When opposite the garrison the flag was hoisted as a token for us to
bring too, which we obeyed. Mr. M--’s boat was a mile ahead, but was
labouring hard to make the shore, knowing the necessity of coming too,
he landed, but was obliged to let loose again, and left us to offer an
apology to the commandant. All along the bank we saw numbers of Indians
of the Choctaw nation, men, women, and children, decorated with beads,
broaches, deer tails, buffaloe horns, &c. We had no sooner landed than
the whole garrison was in an uproar, making preparations to fire upon
Mr. M--’s boat.

The sergeant came down to inform us of the intention of the garrison.
Mr. E--, the owner of the boat in which I was, replied that that boat
was his property, and the garrison saw the endeavours of the men to
land, but without effect, that he was ready to give the necessary
information respecting her and cargo, and if any damage was done, he
knew where to apply for redress; this spirited reply quieted the mind
of the sergeant, and the storm of the garrison subsided. We tarried
here a few hours, sold some {327} apples, cider, &c. and then dropped
down about four miles where we landed.

Feb. 12. Two hours before sunrise we resumed our voyage, overtook two
other boats for Natchez, met a large keel boat rowing up with twenty
oars working, and the men were singing and shouting at a wonderful
rate, I suppose the effect of their morning dram, being informed each
man gets three every day.

At 12, we took our canoe and got a quantity of neat Bamboo canes, which
we spent the day in trimming. At 5, after passing the mouth of Bayau
Pierre, we entered the Grand Gulph, a place formed by a large bluff or
high land on the east shore, and a short point of land on the opposite
side. The river here is very much contracted, on each hand there are
prodigious whirlpools, between which the current runs.

Feb. 13. The country is now a little more agreeable, being partly
settled, nor are we in danger from sawyers, they being chiefly swept
away by the large rafts of timber taken down every season to Natchez
and Orleans, for the purpose of building, &c. The banks of the river
are now lined with that beautiful species of cane called fan pernato,
or lettania, the stem is of an oval form, and when twisted, makes a
handsome walking stick (some of which we got), its top is formed like a
fan, and is used for that purpose by some, when dried and bound. Peach
trees in blossom were scattered along the banks. Half past 5, we came
in sight of Natchez, a town situated on a high hill, about a quarter of
a mile from the river. This is in the territory of the United States;
here is a garrison, the country round is rich and fertile, thickly
inhabited, the climate favourable for producing Indian corn, figs,
indigo, cotton, &c.

Feb. 14. I walked up into town after breakfast, found it contained
about one hundred houses, and {328} beautifully situated, the
inhabitants however are much incommoded for the want of water in the
summer; staple commodity cotton, which when separated from the seed
and packed in bags, fetches twenty dollars per 100 lbs. There are
fig trees in every garden, the ground covered with perpetual green,
except when burnt up in the summer by the heat of the sun. There is a
beautiful Roman chapel, and a formidable garrison about a quarter of
a mile below the town. The hills were every where covered with wild
pepper grass, which furnishes the town with excellent sallad. Within a
few miles I am told improved plantations may be purchased at from two
to ten dollars per acre, and unimproved lands at 50 cents. The head
quarters being removed from Natchez to Loftus’s heights, fifty miles
lower down the river, we concluded to loose our hold and drop down to
that place, which we reached about two o’clock next day, but were not
able to make a landing until two miles below the garrison. We collected
our papers, and with difficulty from the badness of the route up the
bank, we reached head quarters, and inquired of the centinel for the
general (Wilkinson.) After waiting a few minutes the general came out
of his tent; recognizing us, and after a few compliments, he insisted
on our walking in and dining with him, which we accepted. We found him
surrounded by his officers, after introducing us to them, he ordered
each of us a chair, one on his right hand and the other on his left, he
made some inquiry about our Pittsburgh friends, conversed on politicks,
theology, &c. and observed that the soldiers were full of money, having
just been paid off, and if we had been so fortunate as to have landed
at the camp, we might have made great sales. After taking a few glasses
of wine I requested to speak to the general in private. Having informed
him of my business, and shewed him my documents, &c. I requested him to
oblige me with a {329} letter of introduction to the governour at New
Orleans, which he promised he would have ready the next morning. On
taking leave of the general for the evening, he ordered a periogue to
convey us down to our boat where we arrived in safety.

Feb. 16. The general’s barge came down for some apples, cider, and
onions, in it we returned to the camp and dined with doctor C----,
and went with him to the general’s, who received us politely, and who
furnished me with a letter to the Orleans governour as he had promised,
together with the papers I left in his hands. I took my leave and
returned to the boat.

Feb. 17. Having the general’s periogue still with us, Mr. E. and four
others rowed her up to the camp, and got his business settled with the
captain. This and yesterday had been wet and disagreeable.

Feb. 18. At 4, A. M. we left Loftus’ heights camp, with an encrease of
two passengers for New Orleans. Half past nine, we passed the mouth of
Red river, which comes in from the Spanish shore, and which is almost
full of alligators. We floated during the night about sixty miles, and
on

Feb. 19. We entered the settled parts of the banks of the Mississippi.
At 7, we met two large periogues from New Orleans. The men called to us
in French, and asked where we were from, we answered from Pittsburgh.
The country here is generally low and flat, and all along the banks
are beautiful plantations. The river is here and for one hundred and
fifty miles above New Orleans, kept within its bounds by artificial
banks raised sufficiently high for this purpose, called the _levee_, a
step very necessary, as the country on either side is lower than the
surface of the river. These banks were raised at an enormous expense
by order of the Spanish government. At 2, we crossed the mouth of
Bayau Sara river, two miles from which resides a Mr. {330} Bradford
[since dead] greatly celebrated in the late western insurrection, in
Pennsylvania.[219] A little above this river, on the opposite shore,
is a Roman church, at a settlement known by the name of Point Coupée,
which signifies a point cut off.[220] At half past three we proceeded
with difficulty, owing to high winds, and getting a little alarmed we
made shore. Half past six, P. M. we came to the head of two islands
both of which stood athwart our way; they are the more remarkable being
the last in the Mississippi, except below New Orleans. Between these
islands the navigation is dangerous, but a safe and good passage for
boats or vessels of any burden may be had on either side. During the
night we floated a considerable way, but were driven by the wind to the
eastern shore. Our canoe getting entangled in the limbs of a tree, we
lost it.

Feb. 20. At 5, A. M. we got imperceptibly into an eddy, and were
detained in it about an hour. We were now much amused with the many
beautiful plantations which covered the banks on both sides of the
river. On the east side is a handsome Roman chapel called Manshack,
about thirty leagues above Orleans.[221] At 10, the wind rose and blew
violently, the river much agitated, our boat rocked, and it was with
difficulty we could retain our footing, we rowed hard to make the lee
shore, which we accomplished at half past ten, opposite a small but
neat house on the western bank, which was occupied by a French family,
chiefly of females. They came to our boat, purchased some apples, and
we made out to understand them. I took a walk upon the bank, found the
garden full of herbs in flower; by invitation I went to the cottage,
and in my way picked up a sprig of parsley, the family observing me
smelling it, the mother of the children spoke to one of them, and
she ran into the garden and fetched me a nosegay of various potherbs
and flowers, which was a treat so early {331} in the season--add to
this, in consequence of something said to her by the mother, the
little female presented me with about a quarter of a yard of green
riband, with which she tied the posy. I tarried about twenty minutes
and returned to the boat. The wind having subsided, we pushed off. At
4, we got into a whirlpool, in which we were detained a considerable
time; this eddy was two miles in circumference, and the quantity of
drift wood in it was astonishing. After much difficulty we extricated
ourselves and regained the current. As we had now a very quick point
to turn, called Judas’s point, we were forced to the opposite shore,
and dashed against a heap of drift wood. Mr. E. jumped out on the
logs, fixed his shoulder against the boat, and with the hardness of
pushing and thrusting, the blood flew from his nose; by these efforts
however we got her off, but no sooner were we out of this difficulty
than we were drawn into a second eddy; after taking a round in it we
got out into the current again, and proceeded. During these disasters,
it rained, thundered, and lightened prodigiously. A few miles lower
down, we got into another eddy, and were actually floating round in it
without having observed our awkward situation, until called to and
informed of it by a person on shore, who advised us to land until the
next morning, which we did. It thundered, lightened and rained all
night, notwithstanding we slept comfortably.

Feb. 21. We were again blown on shore, but the wind abating and
shifting in our favour we proceeded. We saw for the first time oranges
on the trees hanging in great plenty. The wind rose in the evening and
dashed us against a tree, the storm continued and we were detained until

Feb. 22. We walked through the fine orange groves, plucked some fruit,
and pushed off, and continued floating through a country lined with
small plantations, and beautiful houses screened from the {332} sun by
orange trees, whose fruit we saw hanging every where in the greatest
abundance. Having floated nearly all night we landed two leagues above
New Orleans.

Feb. 23. We thought it adviseable to tarry here until sunrise, on
account of the probable difficulty of making a landing at the city.

At 7, we pushed off. Here indeed the banks of the river have a
beautiful appearance, elegant houses encompassed by orange groves,
sugar plantations, fine gardens, shady avenues, and the river covered
with multitudes of market boats rowing, some up and others down, all
tend to enliven the views of the passenger, and form a scene truly
delightful.

At a quarter before ten we landed at the city, and after collecting
and packing up my affairs, I went on shore with captain Payton, of the
United States’ army, who had accompanied us from the camp at Loftus’
heights. We went in search of lodgings, and after seeing the captain
safe, he being sick, I walked to Madam Shaboo’s, an Irish lady, who
kept a boarding house, chiefly for English and Americans. She had about
fourteen boarders at this time, English and American merchants, sea
captains, &c. They were very polite, viewed me obliquely, and no doubt
considered me an eccentrick character. After dinner I went in quest of
Mr. Clark,[222] to whom I was recommended for advice and assistance.
He conducted me to Mr. Lanthois, who I found indisposed. Leaving him I
went in quest of Mons. Gourhon, with whom I also had private business.
Walking afterwards on the levee with Mr. Clark, I was a little
surprised by a gentleman coming up behind me and catching hold of my
hand--it was my old friend doctor Lacassigne. I had been wishing to
see him, he being of a turn of mind somewhat philosophical, and could
interpret for me, and instruct me in the French language, and having
confidence in him, he {333} was a valuable friend and companion to me
while at Orleans. From the long confinement to the boat, I found my
hams, ancles, and knees so weak I was obliged to retire from our walk
to my lodgings to rest.

At 4, I got my documents, with general Wilkinson’s letter of
introduction to the governour, and after passing the guards, was
introduced into the presence of his excellency.[223] After examining
my papers, he asked me if I had a friend who could assist me in
negociating my business; I replied I had, then said he, you must
apply to your friend, and if you find any difficulty, I will redress
your grievances, I bowed, thanked him, and took my leave, feeling well
pleased so far.

Sunday, Feb. 24. After breakfast I went to Mr. E----’s boat, who I
found selling apples wholesale and retail, to a crowd of people on the
shore. Not relishing this kind of throng of business on a Sunday, I
soon retired to my lodgings. And here I must remark, that there is no
distinction or difference made by the inhabitants between a Sabbath and
any other day in the week, only the stores are fuller of purchasers
on the former, the stalls in the streets covered with merchandize,
the mechanicks engaged at their work, women seen sewing, and at my
lodgings, the female slaves were ironing linen in the publick room.
After dinner, Dr. Lacassigne called on me and we took a walk around
the skirts of the city. On our way to the upper fort we saw vast
numbers of negro slaves, men, women, and children, assembled together
on the levee, druming, fifing, and dancing, in large rings. Passing
by the taverns or coffee houses, you may discover gentlemen playing
at billiards, and as these tables are all exposed to publick view by
reason of the large wide doors being left open, no one need be at the
trouble of entering in to satisfy {334} his curiosity. We traversed
round the whole city, which afforded me much amusement.

Feb. 25. In company with the doctor I went up the river half a
mile to the house of Mr. Sarpe, which was situated in a handsome
garden of considerable extent, in which were fig trees in abundance,
pomegranates, and a large grove of orange trees. And what a little
surprised me was to see three stages of the progression of vegetation
on the same tree at the same time, that is, the blossom, the green
fruit, and those yellow and fully ripe, which was the situation of the
orange trees in Mr. Sarpe’s garden. I had not been made acquainted
with this fact before, and therefore was obliged to shew my ignorance
on the occasion. Dr. Lacassigne kept his residence here, and had his
room detached from Mr. Sarpe’s house, but in the same garden. It was
surrounded with palisadoes of cypress and lined within by orange trees,
whose fruit suspended on all hands. The door opened to the river, over
the top of the room was an electrical conductor, the point of which was
elevated three yards above, but divided at the ridge of the house, and
ran down each side of the roof and sides of the wall into the ground.
Owing to the extreme heat of the climate the air is more frequently
inpregnated with electrical fluid, the clouds more frequently charged
and discharged, the explosions louder, and the preparations to ward off
the effect produced by it more general than in colder climates. The
doctor’s apartment was furnished with a table, two or three chairs,
two beds, and a handsome library, composed of the Encyclopedia, the
works of Voltaire, Rosseau, and a variety of other works, mathematical,
astronomical, philosophical, French and English. Knowing that I walked
with a stick, the doctor had prepared two, of the young orange tree,
and presented them to me.

{335} Feb. 26. Paid Mr. E-- a visit and found him still busy in selling
off his apples, &c.

March 1. Having a fifteen hundred gallon still consigned to me for sale
by Mr. S--, of Pittsburgh, I walked into the country with the doctor to
a Mr. Delongua’s, a distiller of rum, to see if he would purchase it.

Sunday, March 3, went in company with Mr. Buckley to the Roman church,
found it elegantly ornamented, and upon the whole to exceed my most
sanguine expectations.[224] The service was conducted in a manner as
bespoke the conductors to be no novices. After baptising an infant
in a closet near me, the sermon was introduced by singing, in which
a number of boys and men were engaged, accompanied by the soft sound
of an organ, after which, one of the priests, (there being three)
delivered in the Spanish language a discourse on the sanctification
of the Sabbath. The energetick manner in which this was done, gave
me reason to believe he felt the force of his own arguments, and the
necessity of a reformation of the Sabbath day in New Orleans. The
service was, as is usual among the Romans, performed in Latin. It
concluded with singing, reading, &c. and I returned to my lodgings.

At 3 o’clock, P. M. six or eight of the boarders with myself and the
doctor took a walk about two miles from the city to view an Indian
encampment of the Choctaw nation. We had a shade of full bearing orange
trees, to the gate which we had to pass, near which marched a centinel
to guard a fort a little below, detached from the palisadoes which
surrounded the city. Outside of the gate we saw a large circular shade
for drying and manufacturing bricks, under which were upwards of fifty
Indians of both sexes, chiefly intoxicated, singing, drinking, rolling
in the dirt, and upon the whole exhibiting a scene very disgustful. We
soon came to another company of {336} ten men sitting in the middle of
the road, all intoxicated, amongst them was one standing, with a bottle
of rum in his hand, whose contents he alternately administered to the
rest, first by shaking the bottle and then pouring part of its contents
into their mouths. We proceeded, and in our way out, we met numbers
of Indian women with large bundles of wood on their backs, first tied
together and then held by a strap carried over their foreheads. Thus
loaded, they proceed to the city, while their husbands, (if they may
be allowed this appellation) are spending their time in indolence and
intoxication. We saw numbers of other women sitting on the ground
making baskets, mats, and sifters for Indian corn. The children were
entirely naked. The chief part of the men and women that were engaged
(for some of them were sober) were also naked, except a piece of cloth
which the men wore for decency, and a remarkably short petticoat worn
by the women; in every other respect they were entirely naked. They
were thickly encamped in the fields, on the road, and in almost every
direction, some in small cabins covered over with a shrub like a large
fan, called latania, others seated on the ground and exposed to the
heat of the sun. We walked about among them for an hour, and returned
to the city, where we found upwards of one hundred negroes of both
sexes assembled on the levee, fiddling, dancing, and singing.

Monday, March 4. Settled some private business, and some I could not
get settled, for some men are not honest, and others disposed to
equivocate, such I found Mons. G--n, who I should be glad to call
by a better name than v----n or r----l. With whom, however I found
Mr. Daniel Clark, merchant, very useful to me in getting my business
settled. I wrote to Mr. Peacock of Philadelphia by captain Bradberry.

{337} Thinking about homeward, I visited the brig Guyoso, in which I
intended to sail to Philadelphia. Captain Mason politely gave up his
birth in the cabin to me. Mr. E---- and four of his men were to go in
the same brig, having sold out his cargo to Mr. M----. Mr. E---- being
a good provider, we engaged him to lay in stores for the cabin.

Having two hours to spare, it may not be amiss to make a few remarks
as to the situation of New Orleans: It is situated in 29° 59′ north
latitude, 14° 53′ longitude west from Philadelphia. The city is
built in an oblong square, parallel with the river, which runs here
nearly north and south. Its bed is remarkably deep, but owing to the
astonishing quantity of water which it receives and conducts to the
sea, this scooped cavity is filled and sometimes overflows its banks
and inundates the country for miles, hence the city is low and flat,
and the adjacent grounds damp, of which the following circumstance is
an evidence. In digging the graves for the dead, before they are dug
sufficiently deep, they are filled with water, and the coffins are
generally held just below the surface until a quantity of sand and
gravel is thrown on to sink them to the bottom. The city is surrounded
by a deep ditch, and pallisadoed on its interior bank with picketed
cypress. This barrier takes its route round those sides of the city
exposed to the land, and joining the river above and below the town,
and is guarded by three tolerably strong square forts. There are two
gates leading to the interior of the country, guarded by mounts raised
on each side, upon which, cannon are planted. There are also two other
gates about one miles asunder, the one up, the other down the river,
whose entrance is guarded by the most formidable cannon, with some of
their mouths pointing to the river. Between these two gates are five
row gallies, stationed opposite to the governour’s house, which are
always kept in order and manned {338} ready for action. The streets are
laid out in a straight line from the river to the ditch and palisadoes,
and cross each other in parallel lines. The principal part of the
original plot of the city is built upon, particularly that next the
river. There is a space of 50 yards between the river and the front row
of houses, which has a beautiful appearance. The houses in general are
not more than one story high, some two, and a few three stories; the
rooms are lofty, and the doors very wide, to admit a free circulation
of air, which in this warm climate is very necessary.

The channel of the Mississippi, though very deep, and upwards of a
mile wide, would not admit the astonishing body of water to which
it serves as a conduit, had not nature and art combined to aid this
element in its descent to the ocean: the first in having made a number
of outlets, by which a considerable quantity of the overplus water
is carried off into the swamps and low lands, thence in channels to
the sea: the second in forming a number of mill races cut through the
levee. On these races saw mills are erected for sawing plank, boards
for building houses, and others for making sugar boxes, which are cut
in proper lengths and exported to the Havannah, where they are bartered
for excellent sugar. It is worthy of remark that the plantations along
the banks of the Mississippi from Natchez to New Orleans and still
lower down, were formerly appropriated to the culture of indigo and
rice, but the demand for these articles, particularly the first, being
on the decline, the attention of the planters is now turned to that
of sugar and cotton, both of which articles bid for making excellent
shipments, and consequently remittances for dry goods and other
articles imported from Europe.

The houses are in general neat, and some elegant. There is an elegant
Roman church, with a nunnery, in {339} which the females are instructed
and prepared, some for active life, others for the veil, which is not
unfrequent here.[225] I observed one day while standing in the street a
little distance from me, a priest walking with hasty steps on the levee
carrying the host, and three or four other persons carrying candles in
lanthorns; these were followed by a file of musketeers with bayonets
fixed. I was a little struck with surprise at this parade, and more so
on seeing the inhabitants kneeling down as it approached. While I was
satisfying my curiosity in observing these people at a distance, the
remark of a certain poet struck me with peculiar force:

    Eye nature’s walks, shoot folly as it flies,
    And catch the manners, living as they rise.

Monday, March 11. Having got my box and trunk examined at the custom
house, and my mattress and blankets on board the brig Guyoso, I took
my station in the cabin, where I slept as well as the musquitoes would
permit.

March 12. At 12, we set sail, receiving three cheers from a number of
American merchants, supercargoes, and seamen, assembled on the shore,
to whom we replied in the same manner. Half past three o’clock, we
passed the English turn, five leagues below New Orleans. Wind rather
ahead. At 4, we passed an old fort called St. Mary, on the right going
down. At 7, dropped our anchor and went to rest.

March 13. As soon as day broke, we were pestered with astonishing
swarms of musquitoes. At six, went on shore for wood, in getting which
the mate got his foot cut very badly; wheat flour was applied to the
wound, by direction of a prescription book the captain had, and the
foot bound up. Set sail at eight, having been detained by the fog. At
six, {340} came to an old Spanish garrison, called the Plaquemines,
here the flag was hoisted as a signal for us to bring too, which
we obeyed. The captain and supercargo went on shore in a boat, and
produced our passports. The captain soon hallooed to us to drop the
cage anchor. In this we discovered the ignorance of the Spaniards, for
they informed the captain the water was but fifteen fathoms deep, and
it proved upwards of thirty, which circumstance gave us a great deal of
trouble.

March 14. Detained by the fog till nine o’clock. Beat down and tacked,
the wind being ahead at one o’clock the river was still covered with
a thick fog. The ocean on each hand visible from the main-yard, and
on the right hand side we saw the South West pass, one of the outlets
or mouths of the Mississippi to the gulph of Mexico. Ahead we saw the
South and on the left the South East pass, there being three principal
passes to the sea. At three o’clock we came to these mouths, and
the fog mislead us into the South pass, and we did not discover our
error until Mr. E---- and myself for amusement went up the shrouds
upon the main-top and discovered ahead an island. As soon as this was
proclaimed, the brig put about, and after stemming the current for an
hour we got into the South East pass, which turns off gradually to the
left, and appears to be well exhibited in Jefferson’s chart, printed in
London 12th May, 1794. At 5 o’clock we ran on a shoal on the right hand
side of the South East pass, from which we got off without damage at
six o’clock, when we dropped anchor.

March 15. At 7, went upon deck and found the morning very damp and raw,
a thick mist covered the river, and obscured the land from our view. In
a half an hour the fog blew over and we could clearly discover about
two miles to the light house, at Balize, and a vessel riding at anchor
a little above it. {341}At nine o’clock came to an anchor opposite
the Balize. Here we took our long boat on board and prepared for sea.
At one o’clock P. M. the pilot came on board, anchor weighed, we put
about, and was under way in a few minutes. But we were soon enveloped
in a thick fog, and obliged to return to our late station and drop
anchor again.

In the evening I was much pleased with the beauty of nature as
exhibited by the setting sun reflecting its rays upon the clouds in the
western hemisphere, which were beautifully tinged with a fiery red.
The fog had cleared away, and there being nothing to interrupt the
prospect, it was delightful beyond description.

March 16. At six A. M. the pilot came on board; at seven we despatched
him again, and we now entered the gulph of Mexico, our course directly
S. E. The brig rolled and we got sea-sick. Latitude 27 and 46.

March 17. In the evening saw numbers of beautiful flying fish
endeavouring to escape from the pursuit of their inveterate foe the
dolphin.

March 18. Strong N. W. breezes, lat. 25 55. The 19th, 20th and 21st,
head winds, much rolling and tossing, sickness encreased. The 22d, fine
weather, becalmed in the afternoon. At 7, more flying fish skimming the
surface of the sea, indicating the approach of dolphins, to take which
the captain, he being an adept in this business, made preparations, and
caught one weighing 13 pounds, which was cleansed and set apart for
to-morrow’s dinner.

March 23. Saw to the leeward five sail of British ships of war, one
of which was the sloop Stark, 16 guns. After chasing another American
ship, she came after us; we knew it was in vain to flee, therefore
backed our sails till she came up. She spoke us, sent a boat on board,
took our captain and supercargo, and the brig’s papers. After examining
them, {342} and keeping us two hours in suspense, we were suffered to
depart. We were now in lat. 23. 32, six miles off the isle of Cuba.

We steered N. W. by N. knowing this direction, aided by the gulph
stream, would bring us to the Marter’s reef on the Florida shore. At
one, dined on our dolphin, a delicious dish. At four, having passed the
tropick of Cancer, saw a beautiful tropick bird, with a long divided
tail, all over white, shaped like a pigeon, but longer. In the evening
we tacked and steered east, the gulph stream still pushing us forward.

March 24. A British privateer, from Province, with twelve guns,
paid us a visit, and after the usual compliments of boarding us,
and scrutinizing our papers, &c. &c. and finding _all_ the property
on board belonging to American citizens, on this account we were
permitted to depart in peace, otherwise we should have seen the isle of
Providence without doubt. Another schooner appearing to the windward,
while the lieutenant was yet examining our papers, hastened him to his
own ship, when he immediately gave chase to it. At 12, we came again in
sight of isle of Cuba, about four leagues off. By the high lands and
lofty mountains we knew it to be that part of the island called the bay
of Hundor, or Honda.

March 25. At 6, we saw to the windward a ship belonging to Savannah
in Georgia, from Jamaica. She had been driven by the current and
contrary winds to a remote part of the bay, and detained upwards of 30
days. Most of her hands were sick and in great distress. We this day
experienced a terrible storm, which continued the most of the night.
There is something tremendously awful in the approach, and raging of
a storm at sea, accompanied by dreadful peals of thunder, quickly
following each other, and the quick flashes of lightning bursting in
streams from the dark and heavy loaded clouds pouring {343} down rain
in torrents. This was the case now, and we prepared for it. It was the
most dreadful storm I ever experienced, and I could not forbear singing
a hymn, applicable to our situation, namely, “_The God that rules on
high, and all the earth surveys_,” &c.

March 26. Fine clear morning, with a smooth sea. A sight of the island
of Cuba afforded us a pleasing prospect, and its high and mountainous
banks exhibited a most romantick scenery.

At 3 o’clock, were agreeably entertained with a fine view of the city
of Havannah, and the Moro castle. We were warned of our approach to
it by two hills called in the chart the Maiden’s Paps, on account of
their representing the two breasts of a woman. These two hills, though
five leagues in shore, are plainly discoverable six leagues before you
get opposite to them, and as they are due south of Havannah, we began
to look out for the city, and with our glasses soon discovered its
lofty towers and white buildings, of which there appeared to be a great
number; the strong castle and battery which guard the city were also in
view. From the Havannah we steered eastward, with a view to see another
hill called the Pan of Matanzas, from which we were to steer north.

March 27. From the top-mast saw several keys or islands to the south
east. Saw a large shark playing and rolling along side, and a big
turtle.

March 28. Being out of the gulf stream, we were all day becalmed in
lat. 23. 27, opposite the keys on the west end of the great Bahama
bank. Saw swarms of fish, and birds trying to catch them as they
came to the surface of the water. During our being becalmed, I heard
murmurs of certain individuals as to the _cause_. One says this is too
much--another, we have some devilment on board, &c. &c. The breeze
springing up in the evening we again hoisted sail, {344} and during the
night had like to have run on some keys, but fortunately discovered
them in time to tack about.

March 29. Lat. 24. 21. The gulf stream carries us three knots an hour,
but no wind. Saw a large shark along side, for which the captain threw
out a bait of pork; as soon as the shark saw this he dived, and turned
his white belly upwards, then gradually rising in this position to take
the bait, which he missed, and in turning again the hook caught him by
one of his fins, or broad pieces projecting from his side which assists
him in swimming, and as the cord was strong, the captain and three
others drew against him, and after a few flounces, got him along side
and drew him upon the quarter deck. After beating and thumping the deck
like a fury with his head, tail, and fins, the captain laid him for
dead by repeated strokes with the pole of an axe on the head. He had
a small fish called a sucker adhering so closely to him that it could
scarcely be separated. This small fish was shaped like a cat-fish, and
under its head was a large round substance by which it adhered, or held
itself to the shark. The shark being opened by the cook, its bowels
taken out, and eighteen inches of its body next the tail (that being
the most delicious part) cut out, and its tail cut off, it was then
thrown overboard; and what surprised me most was that it instantly swam
under the brig, and we perceived it swimming off on the other side as
far as our eyes could distinguish an object under water.

March 30 and 31. Gentle breezes, sailed however about six knots an
hour, being assisted by the gulf stream. I had now read over all my
books, among which I found the most pleasure in the delightful pages of
Baxter’s Saint’s Rest. My chief companion in the cabin was a Frenchman
of the name of Branie. We reciprocated in improving each other in our
several languages. I found this extremely {345} useful to me, for I was
thereby enabled to count, and ask questions of business, and for almost
any thing I wanted. At 12, lat. 27. 22.

April 1. At 12, lat. 29. 43. Quantity of sea-weed--high sea--large
shark skulking on the star-board side--numbers of herring hogs playing
around us. At nine A. M. the clouds assumed a threatening aspect, wind,
rain, thunder and lightning unite and rush upon us with fury. The sea
also seemed to enter into the combination against us. In alternate
succession we were raised to the clouds, and the next moment apparently
sunk to the bottom of the sea. In the cabin we were all struggling
to keep ourselves from being dashed against each other. At half past
ten the storm ceased, and a bowl of grog sent upon deck to treat the
sailors. Lat. 31. 6. The storm again commenced at one, and continued
until 12 o’clock at night.

April 3. Head winds and cloudy, had no observation to day. The night
produced such sudden gusts of wind, as nearly to throw the brig on her
beam ends.

April 4. In the afternoon saw two ships outward bound, steering S. E.
High and contrary winds. Lat. 33. 10. Another dreadful storm was now
preparing to attack us. At two in the morning was called upon deck by
the captain to view appearances, which were indeed dreadful. The masts
were now all naked, the sails being furled except a small part of the
main sail. The sea swelled, roared, and by the friction of the vessel
acting against the saline and fiery particles with which the sea is
impregnated, it appeared to vomit forth or emit streams of fire, from
the light of which, and that from the light charged circles with which
the gloomy clouds were environed, we could perceive something of our
situation. The ragings of the storm continued until

Saturday morning, 7 o’clock, April 6. When we flattered ourselves with
a calm, but in this we were {346} disappointed, for a hurricane, of
which the last was but a prelude, was now preparing. At 8, the wind
shifted from E. to N. One of the oldest seamen saw the approach of the
storm and gave the alarm. All was on deck in a moment. It came roaring
and foaming upon us most tremendously. A cotton bag of 317 lbs. which
was suspended over the quarter rail by strong ropes, was blown up and
lodged inside of the rail. The seas broke over us, and I must confess
I expected nothing but a watery grave ere long, for which I bethought
myself, composed my mind to prayer, recommending my family, and my
fellows to the protection of heaven. In two hours however this dreadful
scourge abated. Not having been able to take any observation, we
supposed ourselves a few miles to the south of cape Hatterass, off the
coast of Carolina.

Sunday, April 7. A fine clear day, not a cloud discoverable, the sea
calm and smooth. With the approbation of the captain I offered thanks
to heaven for our late deliverance. Observation 35. 25. In the morning
saw a brig to windward making for shore. She appeared to have been
labouring under the same if not more difficulties in the late storm
than ourselves.

Monday, April 8. The wind sprung up from the west and we shaped our
course for Philadelphia. At 12, lat. 36. 48. Seven or eight knots an
hour.

April 9. In expectation of making the light house at cape Henlopen by
4, A. M. we had the preceding evening made every preparation, the watch
was fixed, the lead and line for sounding during the night. At 12, we
got soundings in 25 fathoms water. Sounding was continued every hour
and at 4, A. M. had 14 fathoms. At 11, a pilot boat boarded us. At 12,
we were opposite the capes of Delaware, and the light house fair in
view. A head wind blowing up, the pilot steered us over to cape May,
and intended {347} to make cape island, but was prevented, therefore
continued along the Jersey coast, and passed the two mile and five
mile beach, and at four o’clock P. M. anchored in seven fathoms water
about two miles from shore opposite seven mile beach. The evening was
exceedingly cold, after having come immediately from so warm a climate;
this was very disagreeable to us. We retired however to the cabin,
amusing ourselves by recounting the difficulties of our voyage.

Thursday, April 11. Dropped anchor at 3, P. M. 20 miles within the bay
of Delaware. Friday 12th, the wind failed and we dropped anchor again a
little below Reedy island. At 10, A. M. tide being favourable we raised
anchor and continued tacking, and at 6 o’clock dropped our anchor about
four miles below New Castle.


FOOTNOTES:

[219] David Bradford was a native of Maryland, who removed to
Washington County, Pennsylvania, in 1781, and two years later was made
deputy attorney-general for the county. His speeches greatly inflamed
the mob element in the Whiskey Rebellion, and he was considered the
head of the movement; hence, when amnesty was proclaimed for those
who laid down arms, Bradford was omitted therefrom. He succeeded in
escaping, first to Kentucky, where public sentiment shielded him,
then to Bayou Sara, where he obtained a large land grant from the
Spaniards.--ED.

[220] Point Coupee is the oldest settlement on the lower Mississippi,
having been made by some wandering Canadian trappers as early as
1708. Bienville established this place as a military post, before the
commencement of New Orleans.--ED.

[221] The importance of Manchac began with the English occupation
of West Florida, when a fort was built at this point (Fort Bute) to
control the pass of the Manchac (or Iberville) River. It was the centre
of an illicit trade up the river, so that the expression “by way of
Little Manchac” became proverbial with the people of New Orleans to
express any form of smuggling. Willing took possession of Fort Bute
for the Americans in 1778, and it was later garrisoned by the Spanish.
Jackson closed the route through the Manchac River in 1814, to prevent
British occupation and it has never since been reopened.--ED.

[222] Daniel Clark was the richest and most prominent American in New
Orleans. He came to America from his native Ireland to assist his
relative, Colonel George Croghan, in the conduct of Indian affairs,
serving as a clerk to the latter. At the close of the Revolution, he
removed to New Orleans and became a Spanish subject; but was deeply
involved in the plots and intrigues of the Americans. Clark acted
as Wilkinson’s agent throughout, and served Burr on behalf of his
principal. He was chosen member of the first legislative council of
Louisiana Territory, but out of dislike for Claiborne, the governor,
declined to serve. The first legislature of Orleans Territory elected
him congressional delegate, and he was in Washington when Burr was
arrested. Later, he turned against Wilkinson because of the latter’s
duplicity to all his accomplices. Clark died in New Orleans in
1815.--ED.

[223] The governor of Louisiana at this time was Don Manuel Gayoso de
Lemos; for a sketch, see Michaux’s _Travels_, vol. iii of this series,
p. 81, note 155.--ED.

[224] The cathedral of New Orleans was built by the Spanish on the site
of the older French parish church, which was burned in 1788.--ED.

[225] The convent of the Ursulines is probably the oldest building now
extant in the Mississippi Valley. It was first occupied in 1734, and
employed as a seminary for instructing young women. After the battle
of New Orleans, the Ursuline nuns cared for the sick and wounded, and
received the public thanks of General Jackson. The convent was removed
to the suburbs in 1824; but the building is still used as the (Roman
Catholic) archiepiscopal palace of New Orleans.--ED.




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Transcriber’s note


Numbers in braces (i.e., {27}) are page references to the original
manuscripts.

Minor punctuation errors have been changed without notice. The spelling
of names and locations written by the author have been standardized.
There is often a difference in the spelling of those between the
author, the footnotes of Cramer, and the footnotes of the editor. The
original spelling for all of these have been retained.

Other spelling has also been retained as originally published except
for the changes below.

  Page 77:  “one of the must useful”         “one of the most useful”
  Page 130: “Mr. Wild’s on Mr. Avery’s”      “Mr. Wild on Mr. Avery’s”
  Page 148: “of Franche {129} Comtè”         “of Franche {129} Comté”
  Page 224: “worried we with questions”      “worried me with questions”
  Page 287: “musquetoe curtains”             “musquitoe curtains”
  Page 300: “below Mr. Walbrock’s”           “below Mr. Malbrock’s”
  Page 309: “barrier or levèe”               “barrier or levée”
  Page 331: “Don Thomas Estwar”              “Don Thomas Estevan”
  Page 339: “a la Francaise”                 “a la Française”
  Page 342: “Don Carlos de Grandprè”         “Don Carlos de Grand Pré”
  Page 357: “the other on his felt”          “the other on his left”
  Page 359: “name of Point Coupèe”           “name of Point Coupée”






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