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Title: California illustrated
        including a description of the Panama and Nicaragua routes

Author: J. M. Letts

Release date: November 12, 2024 [eBook #74730]

Language: English

Original publication: NYC: William Holdredge, Publisher

Credits: Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)


*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CALIFORNIA ILLUSTRATED ***





[Illustration:

C. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF C. W. LEWIS III NASSAU ST. N.Y.
PART OF SAN FRANCISCO,
_from a sketch by G. W. Casilear_
]




                        CALIFORNIA ILLUSTRATED:

                               INCLUDING

                             A DESCRIPTION

                                OF THE

                     PANAMA AND NICARAGUA ROUTES.


                                  BY

                        A RETURNED CALIFORNIAN.


                               New York:
                     WILLIAM HOLDREDGE, PUBLISHER,
                        NO. 140 FULTON STREET.

                                 1852.




        Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1852,

                            BY J. M. LETTS,

          In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court for the
                    Southern District of New York.


                E. O. JENKINS, PRINTER AND STEREOTYPER,
                   No. 114 Nassau Street, New York.




                                  TO

                         Miss Hetta P. Letts,

                                  OF

                      _Wood Lawn, Staten Island_,

                             THIS JOURNAL

                                  IS

                     Most Respectfully Dedicated,

                                  BY

                              THE AUTHOR.




Note to the Reader.


I have, in these pages, endeavored to convey a correct impression, I
have stated such facts _only_ as I knew to be facts, and interspersed
them with incidents that fell under my own observation. A season’s
residence in the mineral regions enabled me to obtain a correct
_interior view_ of life in California. The illustrations are truthful,
and can be relied upon as faithfully portraying the scenes they are
designed to represent. They were drawn upon the spot, and in order to
preserve characteristics, _even the attitudes_ of the individuals
represented are truthfully given. The first part of this volume is
written in a concise manner, with a view to brevity, as the reader is
presumed to be anxious to make the shortest possible passage to the
Eldorada.

THE AUTHOR.




Contents.





                                                                    Page

CHAPTER FIRST.--Sail from New York--Our Pilot leaves us--Land recedes
from View--Sea-Sickness--A Whale--Enter the Gulf Stream--Encounter a
Gale--Enter the Tropic of Cancer--“Land, ho!”--Caycos and Turk’s
Islands--St. Domingo--Cuba--Enter the Caribbean
Sea--Sporting--Sunday--Standing in for the Port of Chagres--Beautiful
Scene--Drop Anchor,                                                    9

CHAPTER SECOND.--Natives and “Bungoes”--Crescent City arrives--We sail
into the mouth of the River--Prepare for a Fight--Fashions and
Fortifications--An honest Alcalde--Non-fulfillment of Contracts,      13

CHAPTER THIRD.--First Attempt at Boat building--Excitement on
“’Change”--A Launch and Clearance--The Crew--A Mutiny--Quelled--Poor
Accommodations--A Night in Anger--An Anthem to the Sun--Nature in Full
Dress,                                                                16

CHAPTER FOURTH.--Breakfast--Primitive Mode of Life--Meet the
Orus--Mutiny and Rain--A Step backward--Encampment--A fortified and
frightened Individual--Sporting--Mosquitos,                           20

CHAPTER FIFTH.--First Rapid--An Unfortunate Individual--A Step
Backward--Several Individuals in a State of Excitement--Tin Pans not
exactly the thing--A Breakfast Extinguished--Sporting--Monkey
Amusements--A Flash in the Pan--Two Feet in our Provision
Basket--Poverty of the Inhabitants and their Dogs--Arrival at
Gorgona,                                                              23

CHAPTER SIXTH.--Customs and Dress of the Nobility--A Suspicious
Individual--Journey to Panama--A Night Procession--A wealthy Lady in
“Bloomer”--An Agreeable Night Surprise--“Hush” on Horseback--Captain
Tyler shot--A Mountain Pass at Night--Thunder Storm in the
Tropics,                                                              27

CHAPTER SEVENTH.--Panama--Cathedral and Convents--Religious
Ceremonies--Amalgamation--Fandango,                                   33

CHAPTER EIGHTH.--Bay of Panama--Islands--Soldiers--Arrival of $1,000,000
in Gold and Silver--A Conducta--“Bungoes” “up” for California--Wall
Street Represented--Sail for San Francisco--Chimborazo--Cross the
Equator--A Calm--A Death at Sea,                                      37

CHAPTER NINTH.--Stand in for San Francisco--Indications of Land--The
Coast--Enter the “Golden Gate”--Inner Bay--San Francisco--Lumps of
Gold--Notes of Enterprise--Surrounding Scene--Gambling,               44

CHAPTER TENTH.--The “Hounds”--Villainy--Indignation Meeting--Vigilance
Committee,                                                            51

CHAPTER ELEVENTH.--Start for the Mineral Regions--Banks of the
Sacramento River--Shot at--Gold versus Mica--Sutterville--Primitive Mode
of Life--Sacramento City--An Individual who had “seen the
Elephant,”                                                            56

CHAPTER TWELFTH.--Sutter’s Fort--A Herd of Cattle--“Lassoing”--Rio de
los Americanos--A Disappointed Hunter--A Californian Serenade--A Mule
and his Rider--Parting Company--Thirst--Serenades supported by Direct
Taxation--Sierra Nevada,                                              63

CHAPTER THIRTEENTH.--Venison--First View of the Gold
Regions--Surrounding Scenery--“Mormon Bar”--A Pocket--My Machine in
Motion--Certainty of Success--First Dinner--“Prospecting”--A Good
“Lead”--Disappointed Miners--A New Companion--A Higher Point on the
River--Volcanoes--Snowy Mountain--Auburn--Lonely Encampment,          70

CHAPTER FOURTEENTH.--A Sea Captain as Cook--A Herd of Deer--Return to
Mormon Bar--Keeping House--Our Machine in Motion--$1,500 in One Hour--An
Elopement--Wash Day--Sporting--Prospecting--Discovery of
Gold--Excitement--Fatigue--The Cakes “hurried up”--Incentives to
Exertion--Canalling a Bar,                                            80

CHAPTER FIFTEENTH.--Start for Sacramento City--The “Niagara
Co.”--Frederick Jerome--A Love Chase--Heroine under a
Blanket--Suspicious Boots--Part of a Lady’s Hat found--A Ball--Arrival
at Sacramento City--Poor Accommodations--Return to the Interior--A
Chase--A New York Merchant--Beals’ Bar--Embark in Trade--A
Mountaineer--Indian Characteristics,                                  87

CHAPTER SIXTEENTH.--The Mormons--The attempted Murder of Gov.
Boggs--Canalling Mormon Bar--False Theories in reference to Gold
Deposits--Influence of Amasa Lyman, “the Prophet”--Exciting Scene--Jim
returns--A Monte Bank “Tapped”--Jim’s Advent at Sacramento City,      95

CHAPTER SEVENTEENTH.--False Reports and their Influences--Daily
Average--Abundance of Gold--Original
Deposit--“Coyotaing”--Sailors--Their Success and Noble
Characteristics--Theatrical Tendencies--Jack in the After-Piece--Miners
on a “Spree”--The Wrong Tent,                                        101

CHAPTER EIGHTEENTH.--Arrivals--Preparation for the Rainy Season--New
Discoveries--Coloma--Gamblers _versus_ Bayonets--“Hangtown”--Public
Executions--Fashionable Entertainments--Wild Cattle--Dangerous
Sporting--Murdered Indians--The Wrongs they suffer,                  107

CHAPTER NINETEENTH.--Canalling operations--Unsuccessful
Experiments--Coffee-Mills and Gold Washers--Formation of Bars--Gold
removed from the Mountains during the Rainy Season--Snow on the
Mountains, and its Dissolution--Rise and Fall of the River--Stock
Speculations--Quicksilver Machines--Separation of Gold and
Quicksilver--Individual Enterprise--Incentives to
Exertion--Expenses,                                                  113

CHAPTER TWENTIETH.--Commotion in the Political Elements--California a
State--Slavery Prohibited--Political Campaign, and the Rainy
Season--Speech of a Would-be-Governor--Enthusiasm and Brandy--Election
Districts--Ballot-Boxes and Umbrellas--Miners in a Transition
State--Preparations for the Rainy Season--Primitive Habitations--Trade
Improving--Advent of the Rainy Season--Its Terrific Effects--Rapid Rise
of the River--Machines destroyed--Arrivals--My Store and Bed--A Business
Suit--Distressing Groans--The Bottle a Consolation--Several Strange
Specimens of Humanity cooking Breakfast--The Scurvy--A Death,        118

CHAPTER TWENTY-FIRST.--Dangerous Navigation--A Trip over the Falls--A
Night from Home--Sailor Hospitality--Scarcity of Provisions--A Hazardous
Alternative--A Wayward Boy--Preparations for leaving the
Interior--Distribution of Effects--Our Traveling Suit--Start for San
Francisco--Farewell--Three Individuals under a Full Head of
Steam--Arrival at the “Half-Way Tent”--Poor Accommodations--A Morning
Walk and Poor Breakfast--Wading Lagoons--Wild Geese--Arrival at the
American River--Our Toilet, and entry into Sacramento City,          123

CHAPTER TWENTY-SECOND.--A Dry Suit--Restaurants--Waiters and
Champagne-Two Individuals “Tight”--A $10 Dinner--Monte Banks and
Mud--Gambling and its Results--Growth of Sacramento City--Unparalleled
Prosperity--A Revulsion and its Cause--The Flood,                    130

CHAPTER TWENTY-THIRD.--Sail for San Francisco--A
Fleet--Mud--Prosperity--Ships and Storehouses--Buoyant Seas--Shoals in
Business--Revulsion and Fire--Their Consequences--Sail for Santa
Barbara--The Town--Dexterous Feat by a Grizzly Bear--Fashions--Sail for
St. Lucas--Porpoises and Sea Fowls--Their Sports--Approach the
town--Peculiar Sky--Caverns in the Sea--Cactus--Beautiful Sea
Shells--Sail for Acapulco--Magnificent Scenery--Volcanos and
Cascades--Volcanos at Night--Eternal Snow,                           134

CHAPTER TWENTY-FOURTH.--Acapulco--The Tree of Love--Bathing and
Females--A Californian in a Tight Place--Earthquakes--Sail for
Realejo--Volcano Viejo--Its Devastating Eruption--Realejo and Harbor--A
Cart and its Passengers--A Wall-street Financier
fleeced--Chinandega--Its beautiful Arbors--Bathing--Preparing
Tortillos--Leon--Its magnificence and desolation--Don Pedro Vaca and
Family,                                                              142

CHAPTER TWENTY-FIFTH.--A Problem in Mathematics worked out with a
Cane--Pueblo Nueva--Cultivating the Acquaintance of a Horse--Looking for
the Rider--An “Old Salt” stuck in the Mud--Uncomfortable Night’s
Rest--Nagarotes--Lake Leon and the surrounding
Volcanos--Matares--Delightful Country--Managua--Don Jose Maria
Rivas--Nindaree--Ruins of a Volcano--A Long Individual in Spurs--A
Dilemma--One of my Horse’s Legs in motion--A Boy in a Musical
Mood--Entry into Massaya--Bloomerism,                                151

CHAPTER TWENTY-SIXTH.--Massaya--The Carnival--Female
Labors--Gourds--Maidens consigned to a Volcano--A Donkey “_non est_”--Ox
_versus_ Donkey--Same Medicine prescribed--Lake Nicaragua--Grenada--A
“Priest” in a Convent--“Our” Horse--A Group of Islands--Cross the
Lake--Mr. Derbyshire’s Plantation--Breakfast--Bullocks stepping on
Board--Sail for San Carlos--Magnificent Scene--A Hymn of Thanks--A
Mountain City--Gold Mines--Arrival at San Carlos--Custom House
Regulations repudiated,                                              157

CHAPTER TWENTY-SEVENTH.--Passage down the San Juan River--Castilian
Rapids--The “Director”--Arrival at San Juan--Boarded by a Posse of
Negroes--British Protectorate--Philanthropy of Great Britain--Her
Magnanimous and Disinterested Conduct towards the Nations of the
Earth--Nicaragua graciously remembered--A Hunt for a Sovereign--A
Full-Grown King Discovered--His Diplomacy--Invincibility--Amusements and
Coronation--His First Pair of Pantaloons--Hail “King of the Mosquito
Coast”!!!--All hail, Jamaca I.!!!--“Hear! hear!!!”                   163

CHAPTER TWENTY-EIGHTH.--Sail for Home--Pass the “Golden Gate”--Sad
Condition of the Passengers--Graves at the Base of the Snowy
Mountains--Land Recedes--Luxuries on Board--A Death and Burial--Another
Death--Whales and Porpoises _versus_ Serpents of Fire--Thunder
Storm--Death of Dr. Reed--Three Dead Bodies found on Board--The
Scurvy--Five of the Passengers Insane--Evils of the Credit System--A
Cultivated Mind deranged--Memory lost--Its Cause--The Victim upon the
Verge of Death--Harpooning Porpoises--Exciting Sport,                169

CHAPTER TWENTY-NINTH.--Cloud and Clipperton Islands--Whales, Sharks,
Porpoises, and Dolphins--A Shark captured--Shark Steak--“Caudle
Lecture”--Death of Samuel B. Lewis--A Calm--Foot Races by the Ship’s
Furniture--Passenger Peculiarities--Short of Provisions--“’Bout
Ship”--First of January--Its Luxuries at Sea--A Tame Sea Fowl--A
Passenger Dying--A Shark--A delightful Evening Scene--A Death--Burial at
Sea by Candle Light--A Turtle navigating the Ocean--His suspicious
conduct--A written Protest against the Captain--Cocus Island--Capturing
“Boobies,”                                                           175

CHAPTER THIRTIETH.--Intense Heat--Human Nature as exhibited by the
Passengers--Danger, not apprehended--A Tattler--A “Dutch Justice”--“Long
Tom Coffin”--A Quaker Hat--An Individual running Wild--His Oaths,
Depredations, Musical Accomplishments, Showman Propensities, and
Pugilistic Developments--“Blubber,” Buckskin, and “The Last Run of
Shad”--A capsized Whale Boat--Thrilling Sensation--Harpoon used--A
Shark--“Land ho!”--Gulf of Panama--South American Coast--“Sail
ho!”--Dolphin for Dinner--A Whale--A Terrific Gale--Our Sails and Spars
carried away,                                                        180

CHAPTER THIRTY-FIRST.--Bay of Panama--Its Beauties--Tropical Fruits--The
City in sight--Excitement on Board--Appearance of the City--Her
Ruins--Preparations to Drop Anchor--“Stand by!”--“Let go the
Anchor!”--Farewell to the Sick--A Perilous Ride on the Back of an
Individual--On Shore--First Dinner--Nothing left--An Individual feeling
comfortable--Panama Americanized--A Moonlight Scene viewed from a Brass
“Fifty-Six”--A Dilapidated Convent as seen at Night--Church
Bells--Burning the Dead--Exposure of the Desecrated Remains--Sickening
and Disgusting Sight--Infants cast into Pits--The Rescue of their Souls
requiring a Gigantic Effort on the part of the Church--A
Catacomb--“Eternal Light”--Ignorance of the Mass--Peerless
Characteristics,                                                     184

CHAPTER THIRTY-SECOND.--A Nun--Fandango--Marriage Engagement
broken--Start for Gorgona--Our Extreme Modesty--Sagacity of the
Mule--Sleep on my Trunk--A Dream--An Alligator with a
Moustache--Infernal Regions--Demons--An Individual with Long Ears, and a
Mule in Boots--Falling out of Bed--Funeral Procession--Gorgona--Start
for Chagres--Our Bungo Full--Spontaneous Combustion, almost--“Poco
Tiempo”--Lizards for Dinner--The Hostess--Gatun--Music of the
Ocean--Arrival,                                                      190

CHAPTER THIRTY-THIRD.--Chagres, its Growth--Getting on board the Empire
City--Magnificent Steamer--Gold Dust on board--Steamers Alabama, Falcon,
Cherokee, and Severn--My friend Clark arrives on board--Preparations for
Starting--Our Steamer makes her First Leap--“Adios”--Caribbean
Sea--Heavy Sea on--Jamaica--Port Royal--Kingston--“Steady!”--Beautiful
Scene--Orange Groves--People flocking to the Shore--Drop Anchor--The
Town--General Santa Anna’s Residence--“Coaling up”--Parrot Pedler in a
Dilemma,                                                             196

CHAPTER THIRTY-FOURTH.--Our Wheels revolve--The Natives of the Island
Extinct--The Wrongs they have suffered--The Island once a Paradise--San
Domingo, her Mountains--Cuba--A Shower Bath Gratis--“Sail ho!”--Caycos
Island and Passage--Turtle for Dinner--A Sermon--Gallant Conduct of our
Steamer--We ship a Sea--A Spanish Vessel in Distress--Our Tiller Chains
give way--A Knife and Fork in search of Mince Pies--Gulf
Stream--Water-Spouts--“Light Ship”--Sandy Hook--Anxiety--Sight of New
York--Feelings and Condition of the Passengers--A Sad Fate--Aground--A
new Pilot--Again under weigh--Near the Dock--Death--Man Overboard--Make
Fast--At Home--One Word to those about to embark,                    201


CONSTITUTION OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA,                             207




CALIFORNIA ILLUSTRATED,

INCLUDING A DESCRIPTION OF THE

PANAMA AND NICARAGUA ROUTES.




Chapter First.

     SAIL FROM NEW YORK--OUR PILOT LEAVES US--LAND RECEDES PROM
     VIEW--SEA-SICKNESS--A WHALE--ENTER THE GULF STREAM--ENCOUNTER A
     GALE--ENTER THE TROPIC OF CANCER--“LAND, HO!”--CAYCOS AND TURK’S
     ISLANDS--ST. DOMINGO--CUBA--ENTER THE CARIBBEAN
     SEA--SPORTING--SUNDAY--STANDING IN FOR THE PORT OF
     CHAGRES--BEAUTIFUL SCENE--DROP ANCHOR.


DEAR READER:--If you have visited California, you will find nothing in
these pages to interest you; if you have not, they may serve to kill an
idle hour. On the 27th of January, 1849, having previously engaged
passage, I had my baggage taken on board the bark “Marietta,” lying at
Pier No. 4, East River, preparatory to sailing for Chagres, _en route_
to California. It was 9, A.M. A large concourse of friends and
spectators had collected on the pier to witness our departure, and after
two hours of confusion and excitement, we let go our hawser--and, as we
swung around into the stream, received the last adieus of our friends on
shore. We were taken in tow by a steam-tug, and were soon under way, our
bowsprit pointing seaward. We occupied our time, while running down the
bay, in writing notes to our friends, our pilot having kindly
volunteered to deliver them. We passed Forts Hamilton and Diamond at 1,
P.M., and at three had made Sandy Hook. Our pilot’s boat, which had been
laying off, came along side to receive him; we gave our last thoughts
into his charge, and bade him adieu.

We had now passed Sandy Hook, and putting our helm down, we stood away
to the South. The wind being light, we bent on studding sails, and were
soon making our course at the rate of five knots. The excitement had now
subsided; and, as the hills were fast receding, we were most painfully
admonished that we were leaving home and friends. We soon sunk the
highest points of land below the horizon, and felt that we were fairly
launched upon the ocean, and that we were traveling to a scene of
adventure, the result of which no one could divine. We felt that sinking
of spirit one only feels on such occasions; and, at this particular
time, clouds as dark as night hung in the horizon of the future. Night
came on, and with it a stiff breeze, creating a heavy sea. This caused
most of the passengers to forget their friends, and bestow their
undivided care upon themselves.

For some cause, at this particular juncture, the passengers were
affected with peculiar sensations, mostly in the region of the stomach.
They did not think it was sea-sickness. Whatever the cause may have
been, the effect was most distressing. It assumed an epidemic form. The
symptoms were a sickening sensation and nausea at the stomach; the
effect, distressing groans and copious discharges at the mouth. The
captain felt no alarm; said he had had similar cases before on board his
ship. The night was spent in the most uncomfortable manner imaginable.
Many of the passengers, too sick to reach their berths, were lying about
on deck, and at every surge would change sides of the vessel. All being
actuated by the same impulse, performed the same evolutions.

With the dawn of the 28th, the wind lulled, and our canvas was again
spread to a three knot breeze. At noon we took our first observation,
and at evening passed a ship, although not within speaking distance. The
dawn of the 29th is accompanied by a seven-knot breeze, and we stand
away on our course with all sail set. At 3 P.M., we were saluted by a
whale, and at 4 entered the Gulf Stream. We here first observe luminous
substances in the water, which at night appear like an ocean of fire.
During the night it blew a gale, and we ran under double-reefed
topsails, with mainsail furled. 30th. Leave the Gulf Stream, the wind
blowing a terrific gale. We are tossed about on mountainous waves, and
all sick. 31st. All sail set, and running six knots; dolphins and
porpoises playing about the ship. We are again saluted by a whale.

1st Feb. Pleasant; all appear at table; enter the trade winds; hoist
studding-sails; lovely day; 4, P.M., mate catches a dolphin, and brings
him on deck. 2d. Calm summer day. 3d. All on deck; extremely pleasant.
4th. Sunday; pleasant; pass a ship; fine breeze; throw the log; are
running eight knots. 5th. Pass through schools of flying-fish, one of
which flies on board. We enter the tropic of Cancer. A flock of black
heron are flying through the air; we take an observation; are eighty
miles from Caycos and Turk’s Island; making for the Caycos passage. 7th.
5, P.M. The captain discovers land from the mast-head, and we are
cheered with the cry of “Land, Ho!” We pass around Caycos Island, and
through the passage; and on the morning of the 8th, are in sight of St.
Domingo, sixty miles distant. It looms up from the horizon like a heavy
black cloud. 9th. Pass the island of Cuba, and on the 10th enter the
Caribbean Sea. We passed near the island of Nevassa, a small rocky
island, inhabited only by sea-fowl. They mistaking our vessel for a fowl
of a larger species, came off in flocks, until our rigging was filled,
and the sun almost obscured. They met with a _foul_ reception. There
were eighty passengers on board, all armed. They could not resist the
temptation, but wantonly mutilated the unsuspecting birds, many of which
expiated with their lives the crime of confiding in strangers. One would
receive a charge of shot, with which it would fly back to the island,
uttering the most unharmonious screeches, when a new deputation would
set off for us, many of them destined to return to the island in the
same musical mood. Fortunately, we were driven along by the breeze, and
they returned to their homes, and have, no doubt, spent many an evening
around the family hearth, speculating upon the peculiar sensations
experienced on that occasion. The enthusiasm of the passengers did not
immediately subside, but they spent the afternoon in shooting at
targets.

11th. Thermometer standing at 80°. We are carried along with a
three-knot breeze; our ship bowing gracefully to the undulations of the
sea. It being Sunday, home presents itself vividly to our imagination.
13th. Standing in for the coast of New Grenada; at 6 P.M., the captain
cries out from the mast-head, “Land Ho!” We shorten sail, and on the
morning of the 14th are standing in for the port of Chagres.

A most beautiful scene is spread out before us; we are making directly
for the mouth of the river, the left point of the entrance being a bold,
rocky promontory, surmounted by fortifications. (See Plate). The coast
to the left is bold and rocky, extending a distance of five miles, and
terminating in a rocky promontory, one of the points to the entrance of
Navy Bay, the anticipated terminus of the Panama railroad. The coast to
the right is low, stretching away as far as the eye can reach. In the
background is a succession of elevations, terminating in mountains of
considerable height, the valleys, as well as the crests of the hills,
being covered with a most luxuriant growth of vegetation, together with
the palm, cocoa-nut, and other tropical trees of the most gigantic size.
As we neared the port, we passed around the steamer Falcon, which had
just come to anchor, and passing on to within half a mile of the mouth
of the river, we rounded to, and let go our anchor.

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS, III NASSAU St. N. Y.
CHAGRES FROM THE ANCHORAGE.
Feb. 14th 1849.]




Chapter Second.

     NATIVES AND “BUNGOES”--CRESCENT CITY ARRIVES--WE SAIL INTO THE
     MOUTH OF THE RIVER--PREPARE FOR A FIGHT--FASHIONS AND
     FORTIFICATIONS--AN HONEST ALCALDE--NON-FULFILLMENT OF CONTRACTS.


Our attention was first attracted to the natives who were rowing off to
us in “bungoes,” or canoes of immense size, each manned by eight, ten,
or twelve natives, apparently in a state of nudity. Their manner of
propelling their craft was as novel as their appearance was ludicrous.
They rise simultaneously, stepping up on a high seat, and, uttering a
peculiar cry, throw themselves back on their oars, and resume their
former seats. This is done with as much uniformity as if they were an
entire piece of machinery. In the afternoon the Crescent City came to
anchor, together with several sailing vessels, bringing, in all, about
one thousand passengers.

We remained outside until the 17th, when we weighed anchor and passed
into the mouth, making fast to the right bank, now called the American
side of the river. We found an abundance of water in the channel, but at
the entrance several dangerous rocks. As this coast is subject to severe
northers, it is an extremely difficult port to make. The steamers still
anchor some two miles out. We found several vessels near the mouth,
beached and filled.

It was amusing to see the passengers preparing to make their advent on
land. It is well understood that no one started for California without
being thoroughly fortified, and as we had arrived at a place, where, as
we thought, there must be, at least, _some_ fighting to do, our first
attention was directed to our _armor_. The revolvers, each man having at
least two, were first overhauled, and the six barrels charged. These
were put in our belt, which also contained a bowie knife. A brace of
smaller pistols are snugly pocketed inside our vest; our rifles are
liberally charged; and with a cane in hand, (which of course contains a
dirk), and a _slung shot_ in our pockets, we step off and look around
for the enemy.

We crossed the river to Chagres, which consists of about thirty huts
constructed of reeds, and thatched with palm-leaves, the inhabitants,
the most squalid set of beings imaginable. They are all good Catholics,
but do not go to the Bible for the fashions. There are fig-leaves in
abundance, yet they are considered by the inhabitants quite superfluous,
they preferring the garments that nature gave them, sometimes, however,
adding a Panama hat.

We visited the fortifications, which were in a dilapidated state, the
walls fast falling to decay. The only sentinels at the time of our
visit, were three goats and two children. (See Plate.) It has a
commanding position, and has been a work of much strength, but the guns
are now dismounted, and the inhabitants ignorant of their use. In
returning from the fort, we crossed a stream where a party of _ladies_
were undressing for a bath, i. e., they were taking off their hats. We
passed on, and after viewing the “lions,” returned to our vessel, not
very favorably impressed with the manners or customs of the town.

We had contracted with the Alcalde for canoes to carry us up the river.
The steamboat Orus, then plying on the river, having contracted to take
up the Falcon’s passengers, had offered an advanced price, and secured
all the canoes, including ours. Our Alcalde had been struck down to the
highest bidder, and I will here say that, although many charges have
been brought against the New Grenadians, they have never been accused of
fulfilling a contract, especially if they could make a “_real_” by
breaking it. We did not relish the idea of remaining until the canoes
returned, as Chagres had the name, (and it undoubtedly deserved it,) of
being the most unhealthy place in Christendom. Many of our passengers
had their lives insured before starting, and there was a clause in each
policy, that remaining at Chagres over night would be a forfeiture.

The trunks of the steamers’ passengers, particularly those of the
Crescent City, were landed on the bank of the river, while their owners
were endeavoring to secure passage up. The

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS III NASSAU St. N. Y.
INTERIOR OF THE CASTLE,
_AT CHAGRES_.]

“bungoes” had all gone up with the Orus. There were left two or three
small canoes, and the scenes of competition around these were exciting,
and often ludicrous in the extreme. Now a man would contract for passage
for himself and friend, and while absent to arrange some little matter
preparatory to a start, some one would offer the worthy _Padrone_
(captain) a higher price, when he would immediately put the trunks of
the first two on shore, and take on board those of the latter, together
with their owners, and shove out into the stream. Now the first two
would appear, with hands filled with refreshments for the voyage, and
begin to look around for their boat. In a moment their eyes fall upon
their trunks, and the truth flashes across their imagination. Now the
scene of excitement begins. The boat is ordered to the shore, it don’t
come, and they attempt to wade out to it. The first step convinces them
of the impracticability of this expedient, as they sink into the mud to
their necks. Revolvers are flourished, but they can be used by both
parties, consequently are not used at all.




Chapter Third.

     FIRST ATTEMPT AT BOAT BUILDING--EXCITEMENT “ON ’CHANGE”--A LAUNCH
     AND CLEARANCE--THE CREW--A MUTINY--QUELLED--POOR ACCOMMODATIONS--A
     NIGHT IN ANGER--AN ANTHEM TO THE SUN--NATURE IN FULL DRESS.


We saw but one alternative, which was, to construct a boat ourselves,
and work it up the river. Upon this we decided, and purchasing the
temporary berths of our vessel, soon had a boat on the stocks, 6 feet by
19, and in three days it was afloat at the side of the “Marietta,”
receiving its freight. We called it the “_Minerva_,” and she was
probably the first American-bottom ever launched at this port. A
misfortune here befel me which I will relate somewhat minutely, as it
was undoubtedly the cause of the death of a party concerned. In going
out one morning to assist in the construction of the boat, I left my
vest, which had a sum of money sewed up in the upper side pocket, in my
berth, covered in such a manner I thought no one could discover it. I
did not give it a thought during the day, but on going to my berth in
the evening, I noticed the covering had been disturbed, and as my
room-mates were in the habit of helping themselves to prunes, from a box
in my berth, I imagined they had discovered and taken care of it. I was
the more strongly impressed that this was the case from the fact that
they had frequently spoken of my carelessness. I immediately saw them;
they had seen nothing of it. Watches were stationed and the ship
searched, but no trace of the money. A person who had had access to the
cabin on that day for the first time was strongly suspected, but no
trace of the money found. Our suspicions, however, were well founded, as
the sequel will show. The passengers very kindly offered to make up a
part of the loss, but as I had a little left I most respectfully
declined its acceptance. We had about 3000 lbs. of freight and nine
persons,

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS III NASSAU ST. N. Y.
ENTRANCE TO THE RIVER CHAGRES.]

and at 2 P.M., 22d Feb., gave the word, “let go,” run up our sail, and
as it was blowing a stiff breeze from the ocean, glided rapidly along up
the river, our worthy captain, Dennison, and his accomplished mate, Wm.
Bliss, of the “Marietta,” calling all hands on deck, and giving us three
times three as we parted, to which _adios_ we responded with feeling
hearts. Now, as there is a straight run of three miles, a fair wind, and
nothing to do but attend to our sail and tiller, we will take a survey
of craft and crew. We are freighted with trunks, shovels, pick-axes,
India-rubber bags, smoked ham, rifles, camp-kettles, hard-bread, swords
and cheese. Our crew, commencing at the tallest, (we had no first
officer,) consisted of two brothers, Dodge, young men of intelligence
and enterprise; the eldest a man of the most indomitable perseverance,
the younger of the most unbounded good humor, both calculated to make
friends wherever they go, and to ride over difficulties without a
murmur. They had associated with them three Germans, Shultz, Eiswald,
and Hush. Shultz was a young man of energy, fond of music, a good
singer, gentlemanly and companionable; Eiswald, full of humor and mirth,
extracting pleasure from every incident, always at his post, a fine
companion and good navigator; Hush, was a small man, with exceedingly
large feet; he appeared to be entirely out of his element; he was
disposed to do all he could, but his limbs would not obey him; his arms
appeared to be mismated; his legs, when set in motion, would each take
an opposite direction, and his feet were everywhere, except where he
wanted to have them. We were quite safe when he was still, but when set
in motion we found him a dangerous companion. Mr. Russ, a young lawyer
of New York, Mr. Cooper, an artist, also of New York, a man of energy,
perseverance and genius, and one of the most efficient men of the party.
Mr. Beaty, an elderly man, extremely tall and slender, and very moral
and exemplary in his habits; being in feeble health, he was to act as
cook for the voyage. Ninthly and lastly, myself, an extremely choleric
young man, of whom delicacy forbids me to say more.

We have now arrived at the bend of the river, and as here is a spring of
excellent water, we make fast and fill our water-keg. Water is obtained
here for the vessels in port, by sending up small boats. It can be
obtained in any quantity, and a more lovely place cannot well be
conceived of. After adjusting our baggage preparatory to manning our
oars, we again shoved out into the stream. We manned four oars,
consequently kept a reserve. We were all fresh and vigorous, and, being
much elated with the novelty of our voyage, resolved to work the boat
all night. It was already quite dark, but with the aid of a lamp we kept
on our course. The river here was walled up on either side by gigantic
trees, their branches interchanging over our heads, almost shutting out
the stars. Sometimes the branches stretching out but little above the
surface of the river, were filled with water fowls, the white heron
presenting a strange and most striking appearance. They would start with
fright at our approach, striking wildly in the dark with their wings;
some would find secure resting-places on the more elevated branches,
while others would settle down through the dense foliage to the margin
of the river. Innumerable bats, attracted by our light, were flitting
along the surface of the river, but aside from these all nature appeared
to be hushed in sleep.

We moved along with much spirit until about eleven o’clock, when there
were symptoms of disaffection. Some were weary, others sleepy; some
declared they would work no longer, others that the boat should not
stop. We had all the premonitory symptoms of a mutiny. It was suggested
that we should uncork a bottle of brandy, which was accordingly done,
and it was soon _unanimously_ declared that our prospects had never
appeared so flattering. I am _sure_ our boat was never propelled with
such energy. I am not prepared to say that the brandy _didn’t_ have an
influence. We moved along rapidly for an hour when we had a relapse of
the same disaffection. We resolved to stop; but we were in a dilemma. We
had left home under the impression that the Chagres river was _governed_
by alligators and anacondas, assisted by all the venomous reptiles in
the “whole dire catalogue,” consequently, to run to the shore was to run
right into the jaws of death, which we did not care to do at this
particular time. We pulled along until we came in contact with a limb,
which stretched out over the surface of the river, to which we made
fast. After detailing two of the party as a watch, we stowed ourselves
away as best we could. I was in a half-sitting posture--my feet hanging
outside the boat, my back coming in contact with the chime of our
water-keg. I tried for some time to sleep, but in vain. I tried to
persuade myself that I was at home in a comfortable bed, just falling
into a doze, but my back was not to be deceived in that way; and after
spending two hours in my uncomfortable position, I got up. I found that
my companions had been as badly lodged as myself, and all as anxious to
man the oars. We were soon under way, and soon the approaching day was
proclaimed by the incessant howl of the animal creation, including the
tiger, leopard, cougar, monkeys, &c., &c., accompanied by innumerable
parrots and other tropical birds. All nature seemed to be in motion. The
scene is indelibly impressed upon my memory. The trees on the margin of
the river were of immense size, clothed to their tops with
morning-glories and other flowers of every conceivable hue, their
tendrils stooping down, kissing the placid bosom of the river. Birds of
the most brilliant plumage were flying through the air, in transports of
joy. All nature seemed to hail the sun with bursts of rapture.
Everything appeared to me so new and strange. My transition from a
northern winter to this delightful climate, seemed like magic, and
appeared like a scene of enchantment, like the dawning of a new
creation.




Chapter Fourth.

     BREAKFAST--PRIMITIVE MODE OF LIFE--MEET THE “ORUS”--MUTINY AND
     RAIN--A STEP BACKWARDS--ENCAMPMENT--A “FORTIFIED” AND FRIGHTENED
     INDIVIDUAL--SPORTING--MOSQUITOS.


We moved along until the sun had ascended the horizon, when we made fast
to the shore and took breakfast. Being somewhat fatigued, we remained
until after dinner. We were visited here by two native men and a little
boy, all dressed in black, the suits that nature gave them. They were
cutting poles with big knives or machets; they had brought their dinner
with them, which consisted of a piece of sugar-cane, a foot in length.

We again manned our oars and worked our boat until about sunset, when we
drew along shore at a pleasant point designing to encamp. Some of the
party were anxious to gain a higher point on the river, and we again
pushed out. As we were gaining the middle of the stream, a canoe turned
the point containing two boys; they immediately cried out, “vapor!
vapor!” (steamboat, steamboat,) and before we could reach the shore, the
“Orus” came dashing around the point, throwing her swell over the sides
of our boat, and we were near being swamped. This caused great
consternation and excitement, which soon subsided, and we were again
under way. We were, however, destined not to end our day’s journey,
without additional difficulties. We worked an hour without finding a
suitable place to spend the night. Those having proposed stopping below,
now strongly demurred to going on, and after an _eloquent_ and
_spirited_ discussion, it was decided by a majority vote, that we should
run back. It commenced to rain about this time, and we returned in not
the most amiable mood.

We erected an india rubber tent on shore and, laying our masts fore and
aft, threw our sail over it as a protection to the boat; and, after
supper, detailed our watch, when another attempt was made to sleep. Mr.
Hush and myself, were on the first watch. I took my station in the boat,
but there being a strange commotion in the water, and the sides of the
boat not being very high, Mr. H. preferred the shore. He armed himself
with a brace of revolvers, and one of horse pistols, a bowie-knife, a
large German rifle and broad sword, and stepped on shore. The night was
extremely quiet, and at ten o’clock it ceased to rain. Nothing was heard
except the peculiar whistle of a bird, which much resembled that of a
school boy. The river, however, was in a constant agitation, which we
presumed to be caused by alligators rushing into schools of fish.

At 12, Mr. H. thought he heard a strange noise in the forest,
approaching the encampment, and in a few minutes uttering a most
unearthly yell, he jumped for the boat. His feet hanging a little “too
low on the edge,” caught under a root, and he brought up in the river.
This being full of alligators, only added to his fright, and the precise
time it took him to get out, I am unable to say.

The morning was again hailed by universal acclamation, and after an
early breakfast we resumed our voyage. We had a pleasant run during the
day, stopping frequently to secure pheasants, pigeons, toucans, parrots,
&c. The latter are not very palatable, but we were not disposed to be
fastidious, and every thing we shot, except alligators, went into the
camp-kettle. Late in the afternoon we met a bungo, the natives pointing
to a tree, the top of which was filled with wild turkeys. We pulled
along under the tree, discharged a volley, and succeeded in frightening
them to another. Having a carbine charged with shot, I brought one to
the ground. I climbed up the bank, but found the forest impenetrable.
The under growth was a dense chaparal, interlaced with vines, every
shrub and tree armed with thorns. I, however, with my _machet_, reached
the turkey. There being a sandy beach near, we resolved to encamp for
the night; and while we were pitching our tent, Mr. B. dressed and
cooked our turkey.

We were here attacked by the most ravenous swarm of musquitos it was
ever my lot to encounter. We had promised ourselves a comfortable
night’s rest, but it was like most of the promises one makes himself. We
entered the campaign with the greatest zeal; but before morning, would
have been glad to capitulate on any terms. The morning dawned as it only
dawns within the tropics. Being Sunday we resolved to rest, and called
our place of encampment, Point Domingo.




Chapter Fifth.

     FIRST RAPID--AN UNFORTUNATE INDIVIDUAL--A STEP BACKWARDS--SEVERAL
     INDIVIDUALS IN A STATE OF EXCITEMENT--TIN PANS NOT EXACTLY THE
     THING--A BREAKFAST EXTINGUISHED--SPORTING--MONKEY AMUSEMENTS--A
     “FLASH IN THE PAN”--TWO FEET IN OUR PROVISION BASKET--POVERTY OF
     THE INHABITANTS AND THEIR DOGS--ARRIVAL AT GORGONA.


Monday morning, having an early breakfast, we were again under way. We
shot several alligators, and at 10, A.M., arrived at the first rapid. We
uncorked a bottle of brandy and prepared for hard work. As Mr. Hush did
not help work the boat, (_it was not safe to give him a pole_) it was
suggested that he should walk. We commenced the ascent, and after an
hour of hard labor, gained the summit. We drew up along shore, and Mr.
H. attempted to jump on board. His feet, as usual, taking the wrong
direction, he stumbled and caught hold of an India rubber bag for
support, which not being securely fastened, went overboard. The current
being strong it passed rapidly down, and there was no alternative but to
follow it with the boat. We soon found ourselves going with the greatest
velocity, down the rapid we had just toiled so hard to ascend. We
overtook the bag at the foot, and making fast to the shore, we held a
_very animated_ colloquy, which was embellished with an occasional oath
by way of emphasis. Mr. H. suspected that he was the subject of our
animadversions, but there was _nothing said_.

We again ascended the rapid, and worked on until rain and night overtook
us. We were obliged to encamp on an unpleasant rocky shore, and cook
supper in the rain. We passed an uncomfortable night; and in the morning
it was still raining in torrents. We were furnished with India rubber
_ponchos_ and were making preparations to start while Mr. Cooper and Mr.
Beaty were preparing breakfast. It was difficult to get fuel, and still
more difficult to make it burn. They however succeeded in kindling the
fire. We usually boiled our coffee-water in the camp-kettle, but this
being full of game, we filled a large tin pan with water, and placed it
over the fire, supported by three stones. The ham was frying briskly by
the fire, our chocolate dissolving, and every thing going on
_swimmingly_, when one of the stones turned, capsizing the tin pan,
putting out every particle of fire, and filling the chocolate and ham
with ashes. (See plate.) Mr. Cooper was frantic with rage, doffing his
hat, throwing the ham into the river, kicking over the chocolate cup,
cursing every thing in general, and tin pans in particular, while Mr.
Beaty, with a most rueful countenance, clasped his hands, exclaiming,
“Oh! my!!!”

Mr. Dodge came to the rescue, and we had a warm breakfast, and were soon
under way. At ten, the sun came out, and we had a pleasant run, using
our sail. We encamped in a delightful place on the left bank of the
river, and had a comfortable night’s rest. When we awoke in the morning,
the air was filled with parrots, toucans, tropical pheasants, etc. Our
guns were immediately brought into requisition, and we soon procured a
full supply, including seven pheasants. One of the party and myself
finding a path that had been beaten by wild beasts resolved to follow
it, and penetrate more deeply into the forest. After going some distance
we heard a strange noise, which induced my companion to return. Being
well armed I proceeded on, and soon came upon a party of monkeys taking
their morning exercise. There were about twenty of them, in the top of a
large tree. The larger ones would take the smaller and pretend they were
about to throw them off; the little ones, in the mean time, struggling
for life. There was one very large one, with a white face, who appeared
to be doing the honors of the occasion, viz., laughing when the little
ones were frightened. If I had been within speaking distance of _his
honor_, I would have informed him that his uncouth laugh had diminished
the audience on the present occasion by at least one half. I did not
break in upon their sports, but, following the path, soon found myself
at a bend of the river.

A native was passing, who informed me that there were turkeys on the
other side. I stepped into his canoe, and in a

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS III, NASSAU ST. N.Y.
PREPARING BREAKFAST
_on the Chagres River_.]

moment we were climbing the opposite bank. When within shooting distance
I raised my gun; it missed fire, and the turkeys flew away, the native
exclaiming “_mucho malo_.” We recrossed, and I soon reached the
encampment. Our game was cooked, and the party ready to embark. We
shoved out, but, unfortunately, Hush had forgotten his bowie knife. We
floated back, he ascended the bank, and succeeded in finding it. In
returning, he found it difficult to reach the boat; the bank being quite
abrupt, he, however, determined to jump, and, after making a few
peculiar gyrations with his arms, he _did_ jump, and landed both feet in
our provision basket, breaking several bottles, and in his effort to
extricate himself kicked the basket overboard. He would have followed
it, had it not been for timely assistance.

The day was excessively hot, the river rapid, and our progress slow. In
the after part of the day, we passed a rancho where there were a few
hills of corn, the first sign of industry we had seen along the river.
One can hardly conceive of a country susceptible of a higher
cultivation. They have a perpetual summer; tropical fruits grow
spontaneously; they have the finest bottom lands for rice, tobacco,
cotton, corn, or sugar plantations perhaps on this continent; yet, with
the exception of a very little corn and sugar, nothing is cultivated.
The enterprise of the States would make the country a paradise.

We encamped at night where the river had a peculiar bend, forming a
horse-shoe, and one of the most delightful spots I ever saw. I selected
it for my own use--as a rice and sugar plantation--but have not _yet_
had the title examined. In the middle of the night a canoe passed down
in which was the man suspected of having borrowed my vest. He spoke to
one of our party, said he was on his way to Chagres, on business, but
would return to Gorgona immediately. We took an early start in the
morning, and at nine stopped at a rancho to purchase cigars. Such a
squalid family I never saw. There were three women, two or three young
ladies, and half a dozen children--none of them were dressed, excepting
a little boy who had on a checked palm leaf hat. We asked for cigars,
they had none, but would make some for us, “poco tiempo,” (little time).
We couldn’t wait. We were much struck with the appearance of the dog,
which was so poor that, in attempting to bark at us, it turned a
summerset. We were now not far from Gorgona, and exerted every nerve to
reach our destination. At noon, while at dinner, a young native
approached us from the forest, and proposed to help work the boat up to
Gorgona. As he was a tall, athletic young fellow, and _didn’t charge
anything_, we accepted his proposition, and gave him his dinner. We were
now six miles from Gorgona, and with the aid of our native there was a
prospect of arriving in good time. The river was shallow, with frequent
rapids, and, although our boat drew only nine inches water, we were
frequently obliged to get out and tow it up. (See Plate). Your humble
servant is standing on the bow of the boat with a long pole. Cooper is
“_boosting_” at the side. Hush is doing duty--the first on the rope.
Dodge is in a passion and in the act of addressing some emphatic remark
to _gentlemen_ on board. Natives are seen in their canoes, and just
above, seated on the limb of a tree, is a monkey who appears to be
looking on enjoying the scene. As we passed under the tree he came down
upon one of the lower branches, and seemed disposed to take passage. An
alligator is seen on the bank below, and in the air innumerable parrots.
The noise of these is one of the annoyances of this country, their
screeching incessant and intolerable. Late in the afternoon we arrived
within half a mile of Gorgona, which was behind a bend of the river,
where our native wished to land. We soon passed the bend, when the town
was in full view, and in a few moments our labors were at an end. Our
friends had felt some solicitation for us. Seven days was an unusual
passage _at this season of the year_, and if they had wished to effect
an insurance on us it is doubtful whether it could have been done in
Gorgona at the usual rates.

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS III NASSAU ST. N.Y.
PASSING A RAPPID,
_on Chagres river_.]




Chapter Sixth.

     CUSTOMS AND DRESS OF THE NOBILITY--A SUSPICIOUS INDIVIDUAL--JOURNEY
     TO PANAMA--A NIGHT PROCESSION--A WEALTHY LADY IN “BLOOMER”--AN
     AGREEABLE NIGHT SURPRISE--“HUSH” ON HORSE BACK--CAPTAIN TYLER
     SHOT--A MOUNTAIN PASS AT NIGHT--THUNDER STORM IN THE TROPICS.


The town is pleasantly situated about fifty feet above the level of the
river, and contains some eight hundred inhabitants. At the time of our
arrival, there were about five hundred Americans encamped in the town.
The buildings are mostly constructed of reed, thatched with palm-leaf.
(See Plate). A hammock is slung under the eave of one of these houses,
occupied by the mother, in the act of administering to the wants of a
little one; an open countenanced dog is near, as if waiting to relieve
the child, a señora is shelling corn, and a hog is looking on, one foot
raised, in readiness to obey the _first_ summons.

The people dress, as in Chagres, with the addition, in some cases, of
half a yard of linen and a string of beads. The Alcalde and his lady
were generally well dressed; but, as strange as it may appear, they were
always accompanied in their morning walks by their son, a lad of
fourteen, his _entire_ costume consisting of a Panama hat. In the
evening of the day of our arrival, we observed our worthy boatman making
himself familiar around the American tents. Soon the police were on the
alert, and we were informed that he was one of the most notorious
thieves in the country. He had landed back, thinking it safer to come
into town at night. We had our baggage carried up, and were soon
residents of the American part of the town. I was here put in possession
of facts which strengthened my suspicions of the individual who passed
down the river on the previous night; and, in the sequel, instead of
returning to Gorgona, he, on his arrival at Chagres, hired a native to
carry him to a vessel that was about to sail for New Orleans, and in
attempting to climb on board he missed his footing, fell into the water
and was drowned. His hat came to the surface, but his body was never
recovered.

There was, at this time, no means of conveyance from Panama to San
Francisco, and people preferred remaining, and consuming their
provisions in Gorgona, to paying exorbitant prices to have it
transported to Panama. After remaining some days I purchased a horse,
and started for Panama, twenty-five miles distant.

It is a pleasant ride across, being a succession of mountains and
valleys, each valley containing a spring-brook of the purest water. Two
miles out of Gorgona you enter a mule path running through a dense
forest, the branches interchanging overhead, forming an arbor
sufficiently dense to exclude the sun. You sometimes pass through
gullies in the side of the mountain, sufficiently wide at the bottom to
admit the mule and his rider, and looking up, you find yourself in a
chasm with perpendicular sides, twenty feet in depth, into which the sun
has never shone. Here, as in all Spanish countries, are numerous
crosses, marking the resting-place of the assassin’s victim. When within
three miles, the country opens, disclosing to the view the towers of the
cathedral, indicating the location of Panama. The balance of the road is
paved with cobble stones, the work of convicts, who are brought out in
chain-gangs. One mile out, you cross the national bridge, a stone
structure of one arch; here is also an extensive missionary
establishment, now in ruins. When within half a mile of the wall of the
city, you pass a stone tower, surmounted by a cross. You are now in the
suburbs of the city. The street is paved, and on either side are ruins,
some of considerable extent, having been costly residences, with highly
cultivated gardens attached. You pass a plaza, on one side of which is
an extensive church. You now enter between two walls, which gradually
increase in height, as you approach the gate, until, crossing a deep
moat which surrounds the city, they are joined to the main wall.

On entering the gate the first thing that presents itself is a chapel,
where you are expected to return thanks for your safe arrival. I rode
through, put my horse in the court-yard of the

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS III NASSAU ST. N. Y.
NEW GRANADEAN MOTHER]

“Washington House,” took supper, surveyed the town, and retired. At
about three in the morning, I was aroused by a strange noise. On going
to the window I saw a procession of nuns and priests passing through the
street, escorted by a band of music. They presented a strange
appearance. The priests were dressed in black robes and tights, wearing
black hats with broad brims, rolled up and fastened to the crown; the
nuns, with white scarfs passing over the head and sweeping the round,
each carried a lighted taper, presenting the appearance of a procession
of ghosts. They would all join in chanting some wild air, when the band
would play the chorus. Nothing could be more impressive than such a
scene as this. Aroused from sleep at the dead of night, by such wild
strains, uttered in such impassioned tones, as if pleading for mercy at
the very gates of despair. They seemed like doomed spirits, wandering
about without a guiding star, under the ban of excommunication.

I rose early in the morning, bathed in the Pacific, and after breakfast
mounted for Gorgona, where I arrived in the evening. I went to a
_rancho_, half a mile distant, for sugar-cane for my horse. I was waited
upon by the proprietress who accompanied me to the cane-field, and used
the machet with her own hands. After cutting a supply for the horse, she
presented me with a piece for my own use, which I found extremely
palatable. This _lady_ is one of the most extensive landholders in New
Grenada, and one of the most wealthy. She lived in a thatched hovel, the
sides entirely open, with the earth for a floor. Her husband was
entirely naked, and seemed to devote his attention to the care of the
children, of whom there were not less than a dozen, all dressed like
“Pa.” She dressed in “Bloomer,” i. e., she wore a half-yard of linen,
and a palm-leaf hat. My horse was stolen during the night. I went to the
Alcalde next morning, offered him $5 reward, and before night I was
obliged to invest another _real_ in sugar-cane for my worthy animal.
Money here is a much more effectual searcher than eyes, particularly for
stolen horses.

After remaining a few days I again started for Panama. It was after
noon, and after riding some distance my horse was taken sick. I stopped
until evening, when I again mounted, but was soon obliged to dismount
and prepare for spending the night in the woods. It was quite dark, and
as I was taking the saddle off my horse five very suspicious-looking
natives came up, and were disposed to be inquisitive. To rid myself of
them, I told them I expected a “companiero.” They left with apparent
reluctance. After kindling the fire, fearing they might renew their
visit, I put caps on my revolver, preparatory to loading it. As I was in
the act of so doing my horse startled, looked wildly about, and, in a
moment, I heard footsteps approaching. As they drew near, I thought they
were in boots, and consequently Americans. I cried out, “Americano?”
They immediately called my name. My surprise and pleasure can well be
imagined as I recognized the voices of the Dodges, Shultz, Eiswald, and
Hush.

After mutual congratulations we prepared supper, and were soon seated
around the fire, recalling the incidents of our voyage up the river. The
elder Dodge was lying on a trunk near the fire, and late in the evening,
as the muleteer was attempting to drive the horses back, one of them
took fright, wheeled about, and in attempting to jump over the trunk,
his forefeet came in contact with Dodge, knocking him off, and planting
his hind feet into his back. We were struck with horror, supposing him
dead, but after straightening him up, and washing his face and head, he
was able to speak. He was still in a critical condition, and we were
obliged to attend him during the night. The next morning, after a long
hunt for our horses, we rode a short distance to an American tent, and
leaving the Dodges and company, I rode on to Panama. The next day Mr.
Dodge arrived, in a very feeble state of health, but eventually
recovered.

In a few days I returned to Grorgona, and sold the “Minerva.” She was
drawn up into town, inverted, making the roof of the “United States
Hotel,” the first framed building erected in Gorgona. On my way back to
Panama, as I had got about half way through, I was surprised at meeting
Mr. Hush. He informed me that he did not think Panama a healthy place,
and that he was on his return to the States. He sat on his horse with a
good deal of ease, his feet appearing to have on their best behavior. He
could not get them into the stirrups, still they appeared to go quietly
along by the sides of the horse. Why he thought Panama unhealthy, was a
mystery to some. I am not prepared to say that his party ever
_insinuated_ anything of the kind. In the after part of the day, I was
over taken by Maj. Sewall, lady, and suite. They descended the mountain,
and as they were about to cross the brook at its base, Capt. Tyler, one
of the party, dismounted, and as he was crossing over, a
double-barrelled gun accidentally discharged within four feet of him, he
receiving the entire charge in his hip. This caused the greatest
consternation. The Capt. having Mrs. Sewall’s child in his arms, it was
feared it had received a part of the charge. This fortunately did not
prove to be the case. The Capt. was immediately stripped, the wound
dressed, and through the kind assistance of the Engineering corps of the
Panama Railroad, who were encamped near, a litter was constructed, and
he was taken through to Panama on the shoulders of the natives.

I was detained until the sun had disappeared behind the mountain, and it
was with some difficulty my horse found his way. I ascended the next
mountain, and in attempting to descend, lost my way. I dismounted, and
after a long search, found the gully through which it was necessary to
pass. There was not a ray of light--it was the very blackness of
darkness--and on arriving at the end of the gully, I was again obliged
to dismount, and after groping about for half an hour, found what I
presumed to be the path. My horse was of a different opinion. The matter
was discussed--I carried the “point.” After riding a short distance, he
stopped, and on examining the path, I found that it dropped abruptly
into a chasm twenty feet in depth. My horse now refused to move in any
direction, which left no alternative but to encamp. I succeeded in
finding canebrake, which I cut for him, and spreading out my India
rubber blanket, using my saddle as a pillow, I stretched myself out for
the night. A most profound stillness reigned through the forest. All
nature seemed to be hushed in sleep. Occasionally a limb would crack,
struggling with the weight of its own foliage, and once, not far
distant, a gigantic tree, a patriarch of the forest, came thundering to
the ground. A slight breeze passed mournfully by, as if sighing its
requiem, and again all was still.

This solemnity was painfully ominous. There appeared to be something
foreboding in the very solemnity that reigned. If I ever realized the
companionship of a horse, it was on this occasion; and I believe it was
reciprocal, for when I would speak to him, he would neigh, and seem to
say, “I love you, too.”

In the middle of the night I was attracted by the barking of a monkey,
which very much resembled that of a dog. This called to mind home, and
caused many a bright fancy to flit through my imagination. I was soon,
however, drawn from my reverie by the low muttering of distant thunder,
portending an approaching deluge, which, in this climate, invariably
follows. It grew near, and was accompanied by the most vivid flashes of
lightning. This revealed to me my situation. I was on the side of the
mountain, at the base of an almost perpendicular elevation, which was
furrowed by deep gullies, giving fearful token of approaching
devastation. Very near was a gigantic palm-tree, the earth on the lower
side of which appeared to have been protected by it. I removed my saddle
and blanket, and my horse, asking to accompany me, was tied near. The
lightning grew more vivid, and the thunder, as peal succeeded peal,
caused the very mountains to quake. The clouds, coming in contact with
the peaks, instantaneously discharged the deluge, which, rushing down,
carried devastation in its track. The sight was most terrific. By the
incessant flashes I could see the torrents rushing down, chafing,
foaming, and lashing the sides of the mountains, as if the _furies_ were
trying to vie with each other in madness. In an hour the rage of the
elements had ceased, the thunder muttering a last adieu, fell back to
his hiding place, and again all was still. My blanket had protected me
from the rain; and if I am ever on a committee to award premiums for
valuable inventions, Mr. Goodyear will be at the head of my list. I
slept until morning, when I had an opportunity of viewing the
devastation of the night. I mounted, and at 10 o’clock arrived at
Panama.

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS III NASSAU ST N. Y.
BATTERY, PANAMA.]




Chapter Seventh.

PANAMA--CATHEDRAL AND CONVENTS--RELIGIOUS
CEREMONIES--AMALGAMATION--FANDANGO.


Panama, under the Spanish dominion, was a city of twelve thousand
inhabitants, and was the commercial mart of the Pacific. The old city
having been destroyed by buccaneers, the present site was selected. The
military strength of the city is a true index to the state of the
country at the time of its construction; and its present condition a
lamentable commentary on the ruthless spirit that has pervaded the
countries of South America. The number and extent of the churches and
monasteries are a monument to the indomitable zeal and perseverance for
which the Catholic Church has been justly celebrated. Old Panama is
seven miles distant. An ivy-grown tower is all that remains to mark the
spot. The city is inclosed by a wall of much strength, outside of which
is a deep moat. It has one main and one side entrance by land, and
several on the water-side. The base of the wall on the water-side is
washed by the ocean at flood tide, but at the ebb the water recedes a
mile, leaving the rocks quite bare. There was formerly a long line of
fortifications, but at present the guns are dismounted, excepting on an
elbow of the wall, called the “battery.” (See Plate.) In the centre of
the town is the main plaza, fronting which is the cathedral, the
government house, and the prison. (See Plate.) Here is seen a “Padre,”
walking with a señorita; an “hombre,” mounted on a donkey, with a large
stone jar on each side, from which he serves his customers with water; a
“chain-gang” of prisoners, carrying bales of _carna_, guarded by a
barefooted soldier. And still further to the left is a sentinel watching
the prison. I will here state, that most of the Panama hats that are
made here, are manufactured in this prison.

The principal avenues, running parallel, are “Calle San Juan de Dio,”
“Calle de Merced,” and “Calle de Obispo.” There are numerous extensive
churches, the principal one being the cathedral. This is a magnificent
structure, and of colossal dimensions. In the end fronting the plaza are
niches, in which are life-size statues of the twelve Apostles, of
marble. It has two towers, the upper sections of which are finished with
pearl. The interior was furnished without regard to expense. It is now
somewhat dilapidated, but still has a fine organ. The convent, “La
Mugher,” is an extensive edifice, being 300 feet in length. The roof of
most parts has fallen in, and the walls are fast falling to decay. The
only tenant is a colored woman who has a hammock slung in the main
entrance. She has converted the convent into a stable, charging a _real_
a night for a horse or mule--they board themselves; they, however, have
the privilege of selecting their own apartments. It encloses a large
court, in which there are two immense wells, and numerous fig, and other
fruit trees. There is a tower still standing on one end of the building,
without roof or window; it has, however, several bells still hanging.
The convent of “San Francisco,” is also an extensive structure, in a
dilapidated state; one part of it is still tenanted by nuns. It has a
tower with bells still hanging. These buildings, as well as all the
buildings of Panama, are infested by innumerable lizards, a peculiarity
of the city that first strikes the stranger. They are harmless, but to
one unaccustomed to seeing them, are an unpleasant sight.

The people here, as in all catholic countries, are very attentive to
religious rites and ceremonies, and almost every day of the week is
ushered in by the ringing of church and convent bells. The ringing is
constant during the day; and people are seen passing to and from church,
the more wealthy classes accompanied by their servants, bearing mats,
upon which they kneel on their arrival. Almost every day is a saint’s
day, when all business is suspended to attend its celebration.

Good Friday is the most important on the calendar. All business is
suspended, all attend church during the day, and at night they
congregate _en masse_ in the plaza in front of one of the churches
outside the walls. Inside the church, held by a native in Turkish
costume, is an ass, mounted on which is a

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS, III NASSAU ST. N.Y.
GRAND CATHEDRAL, PANAMA.]

life-size wax figure of the Saviour. There are also life-size figures of
Mary, St. Peter, St. Paul, and St. John, each mounted on a car, and each
car illuminated by one hundred tapers, which are set in candelabras of
silver, and borne by sixteen men. Incense is burned, a chant is sung
accompanied by the organ, and at the ringing of a small bell, all rise
from their knees; the bell rings again, and the procession moves. The
ass is first led out, followed by the figures of Mary and the Apostles
in order; next, the band of music and the procession follows, which is
illuminated by innumerable tapers. They move toward the main gate, all
joining in the chant. The passage of the first of the procession through
the gate, is announced by the simultaneous discharge of rockets which
illumine the very heavens. The discharging of rockets is continued, and,
after passing through the principal streets, they return to the church
and deposit the images. They again return to the city, seize an effigy
of Judas Iscariot and after hanging it up by the neck, cut it down and
burn it. The celebration closes with the usual night procession of nuns
and priests. These celebrations and processions are conducted with the
greatest solemnity, the people all engaging in them as if they thought
them indispensable to salvation.

The priests are quite ultra in their dress, wearing a black silk gown,
falling below the knee, black silk tights, patent-leather shoes,
fastened with immense silver buckles, a black hat, the brim of the most
ungovernable dimensions, rolled up at the sides and fastened on the top
of the crown. Their zeal in religion is equalled only by their passion
for gaming and cock-fighting. It appears strange to see men of their
holy calling enter the ring with a cock under each arm, gafted for the
sanguinary conflict, and, when the result is doubtful, enter into a most
unharmonious wrangle, with the _faithful_ under their charge.

The citizens of Panama are composed of all grades of color, from the
pure Sambo, (former slaves or their descendants,) to the pure Castilian.
The distinctive lines of society are not very tightly drawn. At the
fandangoes all colors are represented, and a descendant of Spain will
select, as a partner, one of the deepest dye. In this hot climate the
waltz or quadrille soon throws all parties into a most profuse
perspiration, which causes _that other_ characteristic of the African
race to manifest itself. I would recommend my American friends to select
partners of the lighter color, as I am not prepared to say the _odor_ is
altogether pleasant. The order of the evening is to fill the floor; the
music and dance commence; when a gentleman gives out, another takes his
partner, and so on, until it is time for refreshments. The ladies never
tire.

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS III NASSAU ST. N. Y.
THE ISLANDS, FROM PANAMA]




Chapter Eighth.

     BAY OF PANAMA--ISLANDS--SOLDIERS--ARRIVAL OF $1,000,000 IN GOLD AND
     SILVER--A CONDUCTA--“BUNGOES” “UP” FOR CALIFORNIA--WALL STREET
     REPRESENTED--SAIL FOR SAN FRANCISCO--CHIMBORAZO--CROSS THE
     EQUATOR--A CALM--A DEATH AT SEA.


In the bay of Panama (called the “Pearl Archipelago,” from the numerous
pearls obtained in its waters,) there are innumerable islands, all of
great fertility, supplying the city with vegetables, tropical fruits,
eggs, fowls, &c. (See Plate.) It is, from these islands vessels are
supplied with provisions and water, the latter being obtained at Toboga,
one of the largest of the group. A more enchanting scene than is
presented from the higher points of these islands, cannot be imagined.
The bay as placid as a mirror, Panama in full view, with mountains
rising in the background. Looking along down the coast of South America,
you see a succession of lofty mountains, some by their conical peaks
proclaiming their volcanic origin, some still clouded in smoke, giving
token of the fierce struggle that is going on within. Still farther to
the right the bay opens into the broad Pacific; that little ripple that
is now running out, will go on gathering strength, until it breaks upon
the shores of the “Celestial Empire.” Still farther to the right, a
tower, shrouded in ivy, seems weeping over the tomb of a city.

In the background mountain succeeds mountain, until the last is buried
in clouds. Ships and steamers are lying quietly at anchor; numerous
islands are blooming at your feet, clothed with tropical fruits, growing
and ripening spontaneously. Nature reigns supreme, the hand of man has
not marred her perfection; if his rude habitation is sometimes seen, it
is nestling quietly in the bosom of some grove planted by the hand of
Nature, interlaced by vines, their tendrils entwining, forming an arbor
over his head, and presenting fruit and wine at his door. It seems a
paradise. It would seem that man might be happy here. He has not to care
for to-morrow, but to partake of the bounties of nature as they are
presented. But, alas! man spends his life struggling for the thousand
phantasies his own diseased imagination has engendered, while nature has
placed happiness within his reach, and only asks contentment on the part
of the recipient of her bounties.

The markets of Panama, as well as the retail trade in other departments,
are under the supervision of females. They are generally well supplied
with every variety of fruit from the islands, together with eggs, fowls,
&c. The beef and pork are sold by the _yard_. Beef is cut in thin strips
and dried in the sun; this is packed or sewed up in skins, and is an
article of export from many of the South American Republics. The
inhabitants have a great passion for “fighting-cocks.” There is not a
house that is not furnished with from one to a dozen. They generally
occupy the best aparments, and, on entering a house, your first
salutation is from “chanticleer,” he having a strange propensity to do
the loud talking. They also venerate the turkey-buzzard, with which the
city is sometimes clouded. They are the carrion bird of the south, and
no doubt good in their place, but the most loathsome of all the
feathered tribe.

The citizens of Panama, as well as of other tropical countries, have the
happy faculty of devoting most of their time to the pursuit of pleasure,
i.e., they divide time between business and pleasure, giving to the
latter a great predominance. Before the innovations made by “los
Americanos,” stores were open from 9 to 10 A.M., and 4 to 5 P.M., the
balance of the day was spent in smoking, drinking coffee, chocolate, or
cocoa, gambling, cock-fighting, attending church, or wooing sleep in
hammocks. The city is generally healthy, yet at some seasons of the
year, is subject to fevers of a malignant type. It has been visited
several times by that scourge the cholera, which swept off many of its
inhabitants, and, at one time, seemed destined to depopulate the
country. The priests clad themselves in sackcloth, and devoted every
moment to the rites of the church, burning incense and invoking the
patron saint of the city to stay the ravages of the disease. The vaults
in which the dead are deposited, are a succession of arches in
mason-work, resembling large ovens. When one of these is full it is
closed up, and the adjoining one filled.

The city has a small garrison of soldiers, their only duty being to
guard the prison, and conduct prisoners out in chain-gangs to labor,
paving the streets, repairing the walls, carrying goods, &c. A gang will
be seen in front of the cathedral, in the accompanying plate. The
appearance of the under-officers, is ludicrous in the extreme. They are
seen parading the streets with an air of authority, in full uniform, and
barefooted.

Soon after my arrival at Panama, one of the British steamers came in
from Valparaiso with $1,000,000 in gold and silver. This was deposited
in front of the custom-house, and guarded during the night by soldiers;
and, in the morning, packed on mules, preparatory to crossing the
Isthmus. It required thirty-nine mules to effect the transportation. A
detachment of nine first started, driven by a single soldier, armed with
a musket, and barefooted. The second, third, and fourth detachments
started at intervals of half an hour, each guarded like the first. The
mules were driven in droves, without bridle or halter. The route being
through an unbroken forest of twenty-five miles, it would seem a very
easy matter to rob the “conducta.” But, strange to say, although
$1,000,000 per month, for several years, has passed over the route, no
such attempt has ever been made. In the immediate vicinity, and
overlooking the city, is a mountain called “Cerro Lancon,” which was
once fortified by an invading foe, from which the city was bombarded and
taken. On the summit a staff is now seen, from which the stars and
stripes float proudly in the breeze. This was erected by the Panama
Railroad Company, to point out, during the survey, the location of the
city.

Great anxiety was felt by the Americans at Panama to proceed on to
California. The sun had passed overhead, and was settling in the north,
indicating the approach of the rainy season. Many were sick of the
fever, many had died, which added to the general anxiety. Many had
procured steamer tickets before leaving home. The steamers had passed
down to San Francisco, been deserted by their crews, and were unable to
return, and there were no seaworthy vessels in port. The indomitable
go-a-head-ativeness of the Yankee nation could not remain dormant, and
soon several “bungoes” were “up” for California. Schooners of from
thirteen to twenty-five tons, that had been abandoned as worthless, were
soon galvanized, by pen and type, into “_the new and fast sailing
schooner_.” These were immediately filled up at from $200 to $300 per
ticket, passengers finding themselves. In the anxiety to get off, a
party purchased an iron boat on the Chagres River, carried it across to
Panama on their shoulders, fitted it out, and sailed for California. The
first “bungo” that sailed, after getting out into the bay some three or
four miles, was struck by a slight flaw of wind, dismasted, and obliged
to put back for repairs. This caused a very perceptible decline in
“bungo” stocks. Many took passage in the British steamer for Valparaiso,
in hopes to find conveyance from that port. The passengers of one of
“_the fast sailing schooners_” when going on board, preparatory to
sailing, found that the owners, in their _zeal to accommodate their
countrymen_, had sold about three times as many tickets as said vessel
would carry. Instead of allowing fourteen square feet to the man, as the
law requires, they appear to have taken the _exact-dimensions_ of the
passengers, and filled the vessel accordingly. The passengers refused to
let the captain weigh anchor, and sent a deputation on shore to demand
the return of their money; but lo! the disinterested gentlemen were “non
est inventus.” After a long search, they succeeded in finding one of the
worthies, and notwithstanding his disinterested efforts in behalf of the
_public_, he was locked up. The captain fearing personal violence, left
the vessel privately, and for several days was nowhere to be found. The
passengers, however, entered into a compromise with themselves, the
first on the list going on board. The mate informed the captain and they
were soon under way. The owner, who had been so persecutingly locked up,
having formerly been an operator in Wall street, resolved to slight the
hospitalities of the city, and took his leave when the barefooted
sentinel wasn’t looking.

One circumstance that added much to the annoyance of our detention was,
that the letters from our friends were all directed to San Francisco,
and were then lying in the letter-bags at Panama, but not accessible to
us. I felt this annoyance most sensibly. I would have given almost any
price for one word of intelligence from home. On returning one evening
from Gorgona I was informed by Mr. Pratt, my room-mate, that a gentleman
had called during my absence with a letter. I left the supper table to
go in search of him; some one knocked at the door; and imagine my
surprise and pleasure as Mr. D. Trembley, an old acquaintance from New
York was ushered into the room. He had letters for me dated two months
subsequent to my departure. He was accompanied by his brother, and I had
the pleasure of making the passage up the Pacific in their company.

The prospect, at this time, of getting passage to California was
extremely doubtful, and many returned to the States. During the latter
part of April, however, several vessels arrived in port, and were “put
up” for San Francisco. I had sent to New York for a steamer
ticket--which was due, but there being no steamer in port, and being
attacked with the fever, I was advised to leave at the earliest possible
moment. I secured passage in the ship “Niantic,” which was to sail on
the 1st of May. On the morning of that day bungoes commenced plying
between the shore and ship, which was at anchor some five miles out, and
at 4 P.M., all the passengers were on board. The captain was still on
shore, and there was an intense anxiety manifested. Many had come on
board in feeble health; some who had purchased tickets had died on
shore; many on board were so feeble that they were not expected to live.
I was one of the number; we all felt that getting to sea was our only
hope, and all eyes were turned toward shore, fearing the captain might
be detained. At half-past five his boat shoved off, when all on board
were electrified. As he neared the ship all who were able prepared to
greet him, and some, whose lungs had been considered in a feeble and
even precarious state, burst out into the most vociferous acclamations.
The captain mounted the quarter-deck and sung out, “Heave ahead,” when
the clanking of the chain and windlass denoted that our anchor was being
drawn from its bed. At half-past six the “Niantic” swung from her
moorings, and was headed for the mouth of the “Gulf of Panama.” Again
the shouts were deafening. No reasonable politician could have wished a
greater display of enthusiasm, and a nominee would consider his election
quite certain, whose pretensions were backed up by two hundred and
forty pairs of _such_ lungs. We had a light breeze and moored slowly
out--the lights of the city gradually settling below the horizon. As we
passed the islands an occasional light would appear and immediately
vanish. Soon all nature was shrouded in darkness, and with the exception
of an occasional creaking of the wheel, and a slight ripple at the prow,
everything was still.

In the morning we were running down along the coast of South America,
the captain wishing to cross the equator, in order to fall in with the
trade winds. We passed along very near the coast, having the Andes
constantly in view, some of the peaks towering up, their heads buried in
the blue ether of Heaven.

We were often saluted by whales, sometimes coming up near the ship,
throwing up a column of water, and passing under our keel, displaying to
us their gigantic dimensions. We would sometimes run into schools of
porpoises, extending almost to the horizon in every direction. We were
constantly followed by sharks, accompanied by their pilots--the latter a
most beautiful fish, from eight to twelve inches in length, striped in
white and grey. It seemed strange that they should have been created to
act as pilots to the “terror of the deep.” The shark is always
accompanid by one, and sometimes two or three. They generally swim a
little in advance, but sometimes nestle along on the back of their huge
master--as if to rest, and in case of emergency, are said to take refuge
in his mouth.

On the 6th we came in sight of “Chimborazo,” the highest peak of the
Andes, and the highest mountain on the western continent. It appears to
penetrate the very heavens. It was surmounted by belts or layers of
clouds, with sufficient space between to disclose the mountain. Below
and above the first belt there was vegetation, above the second
sterility, above the third, and towering on up, a covering of eternal
snow.

On the 12th we reached the Gallipagos islands, a group of volcanic
formation, directly under the equator. They are not inhabited by man,
but are the home of the terrapin. We passed very near, but as it was
almost sunset, we did not lower our boat. We crossed the equator, and
made one degree south latitude. Then standing west, in order to fall in
with the trade winds, we reached 110° west longitude. We then headed
north on our course to San Francisco, but there was no wind. We had a
calm for several days, accompanied with rain and mist. The weather was
excessively hot, causing everything on board to mildew. Our clothes,
boots, trunks, &c., were covered with mould. Those who were sick became
worse, and others were attacked. Our ship rolled about like a log,
without sufficient air to cause a ripple. There was a general uneasiness
manifested, and something foreboding in every face; all were indisposed;
we felt that there was a destitution of vitality in the atmosphere. On
the 6th of June one of the passengers was attacked with the ship-fever,
which immediately proved fatal. He died at three o’clock in the morning,
and at ten was brought out, sewed up in canvas, and laid upon the gang
plank. A bag of sand was tied to his feet, a prayer read, and, at the
signal, the end of the plank was raised, and he slid gently into his
grave. It being calm, we watched the spot until the last bubble had
risen to the surface. This was to us an afflicting scene; a gloom seemed
to rest upon every countenance. That one of our number should have been
taken away by a disease thought to be contagious, and one so malignant
in its character, gave rise to emotions of the most painful dejection.
The ship was immediately cleansed, disinfecting fluid was distributed
profusely, and we escaped the farther appearance of the disease.




Chapter Ninth.

     STAND IN FOR SAN FRANCISCO--INDICATIONS OF LAND--THE COAST--ENTER
     THE “GOLDEN GATE”--INNER BAY--SAN FRANCISCO--LUMPS OF GOLD--NOTES
     OF ENTERPRISE--SURROUNDING SCENE--GAMBLING.


We soon fell in with the north-east trade winds, which carried us along
rapidly, causing us to make so much lee-way however, that on arriving at
38° north latitude, (the latitude of San Francisco), we were at 140°
west longitude. We then tacked ship and stood in for the coast of
California. We had baffling winds and calms for several days, but
falling in with the northwest trades, we were carried rapidly along, the
wind increasing until it blew a gale. This lasted for two days. The ship
laid over so that her main studding-sail boom touched the water, and on
the 1st July the gale carried away our gib. On the 3d, we discovered
weeds and logs floating in the water, indicating our proximity to land.
We take an observation, and ascertain that we are sixty miles from San
Francisco. This we ought to make by 8 o’clock the next morning. The
passengers are all engaged in packing up. The retorts, crucibles, gold
tests, pick-axes, shovels, and tin-pans, are put into a separate bag,
and laid on the _top_; each determined to be the first off for the
mines. Each one having conceived a different mode of keeping his gold,
one would exhibit an ingenious box with a secret lock, another, a false
bottom to his trunk, a fourth a huge belt, while a fifth was at work on
the fifteenth buckskin bag, each of 20 lbs. capacity. All were looking
to the glorious future with a faith that would have removed mountains,
particularly if they were suspected of having gold concealed underneath.
On the morning of the 4th, the sun rose in a cloud of mist. We were all
expectation and excitement. Some were at mast-head, others in the
shrouds, and all on the “_qui vive_” for land. The fog was so dense we
could not take an observation, but still stood in toward land. At 12
o’clock we felt a slight breeze, and the mist rose like a curtain,
displaying to our astonished vision the coast of California. A
simultaneous shout burst forth, and our very ship seemed to bound with
enthusiasm. We find by taking an observation that we are twenty miles
north of the entrance to the bay. We had a fair wind, and passed along
very near the coast, which is bold and rocky, rising and terminating in
the coast range of mountains, and in the back ground the famed “Sierra
Nevada,” (mountains of snow).

At 3 o’clock, P.M., we arrived off a bold rocky promontory, which is the
north point to the entrance of the outer bay of San Francisco, called
“De los Reys,” or King’s Point. We soon changed our course, standing in
for the entrance to the inner bay, some twenty miles distant. The air
was filled with geese, brant, loons, ducks, &c. We here saw the
hair-seal, somewhat resembling a tiger. They would come to the surface,
display themselves, and disappear. We saw, also, a very large whale
coming directly toward the ship, alternately diving and reappearing, and
the third time he came to the surface, he was quite near us. He threw up
a column of water, and diving headlong toward the bottom, threw his huge
tail into the air. Not wishing to come to anchor before morning, we
shortened sail, and all “_turned in_.”

In the morning we were a short distance from the “_Golden Gate_,” the
entrance to the inner bay, making for it with a fair breeze. A large
ship was abreast of us, making for the same point. A schooner spoke us,
and wished to pilot us in, but our captain not relishing California
price ($200), declined. The strait through which we were about to pass,
is an opening through the coast-range of mountains, about a mile in
width, and has the appearance of having been cut through by the action
of the inland waters. The capes at either side are bold, and that on the
right is fortified. We could not have made a more auspicious entrance.
It was a delightful morning, with a fresh breeze, and the tide rushing
in at eight knots. When we had made the entrance, we could see through
into the inner bay, directly in the centre of which is an island of
considerable elevation, which serves as a beacon to inward-bound
vessels. The passage in was entirely without interruption, and the
scene most enchanting. It seemed to us that the gates had been thrown
open, and we ushered in to view some fairy scene. At our left was the
little bay of “Saucelito” (Little Willow), where several vessels were
lying cosily under the bank, taking in water. Here is a small island,
inhabited only by sea-fowl--there a strait which is the mouth of the
Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, beyond which the shore of the bay is
bold with mountains in the background. We still head toward the island
in the centre. At our right, the shore is bold, and still further on, a
point of considerable elevation juts out into the bay. The tide is still
bearing us along with headlong speed, and we are obliged to take in all
sail with the exception of the flying-jib. As we neared the point we
changed our course, making as near it as practicable, and, as we round
it, San Francisco is spread out before us, where rides a fleet of two
hundred sail. We feel that we have attained the acme of our ambition,
that we have really entered the “Golden Gates.” We pass along, and
passing several vessels, come to the United States man-of-war, “Gen.
Warren.” Our patriotism, at this particular time, was not of a nature to
be smothered into silence. We took off our hats, opened our mouths, and
it was soon evident that our lungs had lost none of their vigor by
exposure to the sea air. We passed most of the shipping, and finding a
convenient place our captain cried out “haul down the flying jib,” “let
go the anchor,” and our ship rounded to, as if willing to rest after a
run of sixty-five days.

We were immediately boarded by boatmen, and I was soon in a row-boat on
my way to the shore. On landing, my first move was for the post-office.
I had gone but a few paces in this city of strangers, before some one
called my name. I turned around; he did not recognize my six months’
beard, and apologized. I recognized him as a New York friend, and
assured him there was no offence, that I was the identical individual he
was looking for. I accompanied him to his store, where he exhibited
several specimens of gold, weighing twenty-seven ounces, twenty-five
ounces, and down to a single ounce. These were no unwelcome sight to me,
and served to stimulate the fever. My greatest anxiety, however, was to
hear from home, and with the least possible delay, I hurried to the post
office. I had heard from home but once in six months, and my anxiety
and pleasure can well be imagined, when, in answer to my inquiry, I was
handed a half-dozen letters. I went to a restaurant, read my letters,
ate a $3.50 beefsteak, and felt as rich as men are generally supposed
_to feel_ after a six months’ residence. I could neither get room nor
lodgings in town. Many of the business men, and all the transient
people, lived in tents. My tent was still on board the ship, and my
friend above spoken of, offered me the hospitalities of his own for the
night.

In the morning I took my writing-desk, and climbed to an eminence in the
vicinity of the city, to write to my friends at home. Seating myself
under a cluster of small trees which protected me from the sun, I
commenced, and, with the exception of an interval for dinner, spent the
day in writing. The scene around me was animated. Everything appeared to
be propelled by the most indomitable perseverance. The frame of a house
would be taken from the ship in the morning, and at night it was fully
tenanted. The clatter of the innumerable hammers, each answered by a
thousand echoes, seemed the music by which the city was being marshalled
into existence. Ships were constantly arriving; coming to anchor a mile
out, they would immediately disgorge their cargoes, which, taken by
lighters, were conveyed to the shore, and thrown into heaps, their
owners running about to contract for their immediate transportation into
the interior. Others were seen rowing off to vessels, which, after
receiving their complement of passengers, would weigh anchor and stand
for the strait, which is the joint mouth of the Sacramento and San
Joaquin Rivers.

Towards evening the scene became less animated, and the noise more
subdued. I could but look with admiration upon the heightened beauty of
the scene, as Nature was about to repose. A smile of approbation seemed
to play upon her countenance as she was taking the last view of this,
the perfection of her works.

The sun is almost down, tinging only some of the highest peaks of the
surrounding mountains. The city, extending from the bay up the left base
and side of the mountain, is about to cease her notes of enterprise, and
light her lamps. At the base, directly under my feet, is an encampment
of one hundred tents, occupied by Americans and Chilians. Two hundred
ships are lying at anchor, displaying their various ensigns, comprising
almost all the commercial nations of the world; and looming up
conspicuously in the offing, is the man-of-war, “Gen. Warren,” her
majestic appearance proclaiming the superiority of American naval
architecture. But the most striking feature in the scene is this
beautiful bay; surrounded by mountains which protect it from the winds,
it sleeps in perfect calm, the flood and ebb tide carrying vessels in
and out, at from seven to eight knots an hour. At this moment, although
the wind is blowing in the mountains, the bay is as placid as a mirror.
In the centre of the bay is a beautiful island, as if nature had set in
pearl one of her choicest emeralds. But “night has let her curtain down,
and pinned it with a star.” In the evening I strolled about with my
friends, and was surprised to see that all of the best houses on the
main streets were gambling houses. The rooms were brilliantly lighted,
and each contained several _monte_ tables, loaded with gold and silver
coin, together with many rich specimens from the mines. To allure their
victims, they were usually furnished with music, a bar, and an
interesting señorita to deal the cards. Gamblers understand that the
only _sure_ way of making a man courageous is to get him drunk,
consequently, at about every second dealing of the cards, all the
betters are “treated.” A man bets on a card and loses. His last drink is
beginning to effervesce, and, of course, he is too _shrewd_ to let the
gambler have his money. He doubles the bet, putting the money on the
same card, thinking that a card must, at least, win every other time. I
have noticed that gamblers are very considerate, always _managing_ to
throw out just the card the victim wishes to bet upon. Again he loses,
and again is “treated.” His courage is up: the third time _his_ card
must certainly win. The “deal” takes place, and, strange to say, _his_
card is turned up, and seems to say, in its very face that it is to win.
In order to win back his former losses, he stakes, this time, half his
purse. The other betters and bystanders now begin to manifest an
interest in the affair. The gambler now begins to draw the cards, and,
lo! the victim’s card don’t win. He is excited; he sees that others are
looking at him, and displays the greatest amount of courage by taking
another drink, and calling for another deal. Again _his_ card is turned
up. It cannot possibly lose four times in succession. He throws on his
entire purse. It is lost. He goes out penniless. Another _shrewd_ man
was standing by, betting small sums on the opposite card, and
consequently had won four times in succession. He had discovered the
remarkable _fact_, that the card opposite the above described unlucky
one, would _invariably_ win. He determined to make a fortune by his
discovery. The deal takes place, the unlucky card comes out, and he puts
a large sum on the _other_ one. The cards are drawn, and, strange as it
may seem, the _unlucky_ card wins. This appeared doubly strange to the
_shrewd_ man. He took another drink, and felt positive it could not
happen so again. Another deal, and the indefatigable _unlucky_ card is
again in the field. Again the shrewd man bets, and again the _unlucky_
card wins. The shrewd man displays as much courage as his predecessor,
and is soon prepared to leave in the same financial condition.

The bystanders grow a little suspicious. The cards are again dealt,
small bets are made and won by the bystanders. The gambler “treats,”
bystanders again bet, win, are “treated,” and grow courageous. A better
state of feeling exists; the gambler grows more complacent, and treats
oftener. All are anxious to bet, the gambler is considered one of the
best of fellows--one of that kind of men who would a little prefer
_losing_ money to _winning_ it. Again bets are made and won, and all
appear anxious to share the gambler’s money, as it is, doubtless, about
to be distributed among the _fortunate_ bystanders. All drink and bet
liberally; but this time they lose. This is, however, the first loss,
and they bet again, but it so happens that they lose this time also.
They drink and bet again, and again lose. They now find that they have
only half as much money as they commenced with. They now resolve to
recover what they have lost, and quit. But, alas! when the victim
arrives at this point in the drama, he is lost. He loses every bet,
until, seized by a feeling of reckless desperation, he risks _all_, and
is immolated upon the altar of avarice.

Hundreds who have never risked, and who think it impossible they ever
could risk, a dollar in a game of chance, are daily drawn into the
vortex. They come to town with well-filled purses, the proceeds,
perhaps, of six months’ hard labor, to buy the necessary provisions and
clothing, get their letters, &c. They meet old friends, drink, go to the
gambling house, drink again, and finally bet a small amount, and perhaps
win. They bet again, and again win. A feeling of avarice is now excited,
and they risk a large sum. But after repeated bets, with varied success,
they discover that they are losers. They now make the _fatal resolve_
that they will win back what they have lost and quit; the next moment
they are ruined.




Chapter Ten.

THE “HOUNDS”--VILLAINY--INDIGNATION MEETING--VIGILANCE COMMITTEE.


San Francisco was, at this time, infested by a gang of desperados
disposed to repudiate all laws, and be governed only by their own
fiendish propensities. They styled themselves “hounds,” and neither life
nor property were secure against their depredations. They felt so secure
in their strength and numbers, that they did not seek the protection of
night, but frequently committed the most revolting crimes at noon-day,
and under the eye of the public authorities. They would enter public
houses, demand whatever they wished, always forgetting to pay for the
same, and, perhaps, before leaving, demolish every article of furniture
on the premises. This would be a mere prelude or introductory to a night
of fiendish revelry. They would plunder houses, commit the most
diabolical acts upon the inmates, murder in case of resistance, then
commit the building to the flames to hide their infamy.

On the first Sunday after my arrival, several of the leaders of the gang
returned to town, after a few days’ absence. They crossed over from the
opposite side of the bay, having with them a fife and drum, the music of
which was accompanied by yells, groans and hisses, such as one would
only expect to hear from demons. After landing they marched into the
main plaza, and executing a few peculiar evolutions, dispensed with
their music, at least the instrumental part of it, and commenced their
foray. I was seated in a restaurant as the captain and five of his
followers entered. He drew up to a table upon which were several
glasses, decanters, &c., together with sundry plates of refreshments. He
raised his foot, kicked over the table, smashing the crockery into
atoms, then taking his cigar from his mouth said, with the utmost
_nonchalance_, “waiter, bring me a gin-cocktail, G--d d--n you.” After
having satisfied their thirst and hunger, they sallied forth without
taking the trouble to learn the precise amount of damage done.

During the night, after committing several robberies, they entered a
Chilian tent, and, after committing the most brutal outrages upon the
mother and daughter, murdered the former, and in their struggle with the
latter, she, after receiving several severe wounds, caught a bowie-knife
from the hand of one of them and, after dealing him a deadly blow, made
her escape. She immediately gave the alarm, and although robberies had
been committed with impunity, this outrage upon defenceless females,
awakened an impulse that was irresistible. The excitement was most
intense; citizens flocked together, armed with a determination to meet
out summary punishment to the perpetrators of this inhuman outrage.

Several arrests were made, and, although many were in favor of summary
vengeance, better counsel prevailed, and they were put into the hands of
the authorities and locked up. They refused to give any information as
to the stolen property, but upon searching the tent of an accomplice,
various articles were found, and snugly stowed away in a mattress was a
large amount in gold dust, the wages of their infamy. A few hours after
the above arrests, a demonstration was made by accomplices, in order to
force open the jail, and release their comrades. This caused the
strongest feelings of indignation, and the citizens assembled _en masse_
in the plaza, all armed to the teeth, determined to avenge this
additional aggravation to the atrocious crimes already perpetrated. They
immediately organized themselves into a police, and determined to act
with decision upon any proposition that might be sanctioned by the
meeting. Had a resolution passed to hang the prisoners it would have
been carried into immediate effect. Notwithstanding the excitement of
the moment, many of the “hounds” had the effrontery to show themselves,
and during a speech by one of the citizens, made some menacing jestures,
upon which the speaker drew a revolver from his bosom, and with a
determined emphasis requested all those who sympathized with the
prisoners to separate from the crowd. Had they complied, the
determination manifested in every countenance gave fearful token of the
doom that awaited them. It was resolved, in consideration of the
insecurity of the jail, to transfer the prisoners to the man-of-war,
“General Warren.” This was carried into immediate effect, the citizens
forming a double file from the jail to the shore.

This demonstration secured but five of the numerous horde that infested
the city, and it was not to be expected that the arrests of these would
prove a salutary check, nor did it. The desperados stood in greater fear
of this self-constituted police than of the regular authorities. This
organization was undoubtedly the germ from which the “Vigilance
Committee” eventually grew. It is well known that, upon the breaking out
of the gold excitement, the cities of the world sent forth their vilest
scum, consisting of gamblers, pickpockets, murderers, and thieves, and
California was the receptacle. They immediately fraternized, and were at
once the most adroit, wily and experienced embodiment of villainy with
which the prospects of a city were ever blighted. They were not men
broken down in their _profession_ at home, but the very _aristocracy_ of
crime. Too well-skilled to be detected, they had escaped the meshes of
the law in their own country, and resorted to California for its
superior _business_ prospects. As if to have the organization complete,
the convict islands of Great Britain vomited forth a herd that seemed
almost _festering_ with crime. This sealed the doom of San Francisco.
She was infested by an organization, the very incarnation of infamy.
They would fire the city for plunder, and commit murder to screen
themselves from detection.

The city had grown to the stature of a giant; all were reaping the
reward of their enterprise, when on the 5th December following, the
torch of the incendiary was applied, and within a few short hours San
Francisco was in ashes. Citizens who had assumed their pillows in wealth
awoke in penury. Many, after a year of toil and anxiety, were preparing
to return to their families in affluence, but in one brief moment their
dreams of happiness were blighted, and their riches a heap of
smouldering ruins. The city was immediately rebuilt, but citizens had
barely entered their new habitations, when it was again devastated by
fire. Again it rose, Phenix-like, from its own ashes, and again business
was resumed, but for the third time it was in ruins.

The citizens were appalled. That it was the work of incendiaries no one
doubted, yet to detect them seemed impossible, so skillfully were their
plans laid, and so adroitly executed. Added to this, the sequel proved
that some of their number had got into “high places,” were conniving at
their acts, and sharing their ill-gotten booty. This, in part, accounts
for the tardy proceedings against those who were arrested, and the
numerous reprieves of those who were clearly proved guilty. Property to
the value of some twenty millions of dollars had already been destroyed,
hundreds of citizens had been reduced from affluence to bankruptcy,
others were in momentary fear of sharing the same fate. They had lost
confidence in the city authorities, and there seemed no alternative but
to take the matter into their own hands. They consequently organized
themselves into what was termed a “Vigilance Committee,” with the
determination of bringing every suspicious person to a strict account.
Many of the most influential and wealthy citizens were the first to
enrol themselves, and they called upon all to join them in their effort
at self-protection. Their head-quarters was at the engine-house of a
fire company, the tolling of the bell being the signal for all to
assemble. This well-known signal was always heard when an arrest was
made, and became the death-knell to many a wretch, who for his
villainies was hastily summoned into another world. The meetings of the
Committee were strictly private, none but members being admitted. The
proceedings were summary, and if the prisoner was proved guilty his
sentence was carried into immediate effect. None were executed, however,
without the unanimous consent of members present, this being one of the
provisions of their constitution. Those who were executed were not only
proved guilty, but confessed their guilt before their execution. Most of
those who fell under the ban of the Committee were “Sidney convicts,”
and subsequently they were all ordered to leave the country within a
specified time, upon the pain of death. The Mayor issued a proclamation
against the proceedings of the Committee, and the coroner’s juries
summoned over the bodies of those who were executed, found against them;
yet it is a question of doubt, whether _any one_ was secretly opposed to
their proceedings.

Persons living in well-regulated communities, and looking at the matter
in the distance, may feel disposed to censure the Committee and its
proceedings as hasty and precipitate; but, when we take into
consideration that not only property to an immense amount, but life
itself, was in jeopardy--the want of facilities for securing and
retaining criminals during the tardy process of law, the numerous
rescues by accomplices, and the frequent pardons by the authorities when
the accused were notoriously guilty,--I say, when we take these things
into consideration, together with the fact that not an individual was
executed who was not clearly proved guilty, and even confessed his
guilt; we can look upon the acts of the Committee not only as just--but
imperative. In the confessions of some of those who were executed they
implicated men in authority, in such a manner that not a doubt was left
upon the public mind. The result of these summary measures is apparent
to all. Crime, since the organization of the Committee, has decreased
one half, and they have now ceased to make arrests, leaving all to the
jurisdiction of the proper authorities. They, however, maintain their
organization, and would, no doubt, act in case of emergency.




Chapter Eleventh.

     START FOR THE MINERAL REGIONS--BANKS OF THE SACRAMENTO RIVER--SHOT
     AT--GOLD VS. MICA--SUTTERVILLE--PRIMITIVE MODE OF LIFE--SACRAMENTO
     CITY--AN INDIVIDUAL WHO HAD “SEEN THE ELEPHANT.”


I spent the interval between the 5th of July and the 19th in preparing
for the mines. I found many of the miners in town on account of the high
state of water in the rivers. My friends who had visited the interior,
spoke discouragingly of the mines, preferring the mercantile business.
But goods were at the time selling at less than New York prices, and
rents were enormously high. Many of the merchants were anxious to sell
out and go into the mines, and I came to the conclusion that mining was
the only sure way of making a fortune.

On the 19th July I went on board the brig “North Bend,” with three men
who had been hired in New York and sent out by a company in which I had
an interest, and sailed for the Sacramento river. We crossed the bay,
and in an hour were in the strait, running up with a stiff breeze,
passing numerous small islands inhabited by water fowl and covered with
“guano.” There were innumerable ducks, brant, loons, and geese flying
through the air; the scenery delightful, the first fifty miles being a
succession of small bays, all studded with islands. At the right the
bank rises gradually to the height of from twenty to fifty feet, covered
with wild oats, with an occasional “live oak” tree, and relieved by
frequent ravines through which small streams find their way to the
strait. This plain, during the rainy season, furnishes pasture for heads
of wild cattle--elk, deer, and antelope, but at this season they had
retired to the marshes and lower lands; and the whole of the right bank,
as far back as the eye could reach, appeared one immense field of
ripened grain. The left bank, on the immediate margin, presents the
same appearance, but relieved in the background by the coast range of
mountains with which we were running parallel. This range appears a
continuous ledge of granite, destitute of vegetation, and at one point
towers up into a peak of considerable height, called Monte Diablo,
(Devil’s Mount).

At 12 M., we arrived at Benicia, now a port of entry and United States
naval station. The man of man-of-war, “Southampton,” was anchored in the
stream--guarding the passage--to prevent smuggling. As soon as we came
in sight they lowered their boat, and pulled out toward the middle of
the stream, to intercept us, and examine our papers--at the same time
hoisting a signal for us to come to. Our captain was an “old salt,” and,
in his estimation, the greatest blessing conferred upon man is a fair
wind. He had every inch of canvas set, and manifested a determination
not to shorten sail; we were running before a ten-knot breeze, and flew
by them like a shadow. They hailed us, but not being obeyed they fired a
gun from the ship, when our captain ordered the helm put down, and in an
instant our sails were fluttering in the breeze; we had distanced the
jolly-boat--they being obliged to row half a mile against the current to
reach us. The officer boarded us in not the most amiable mood; it was
quite apparent that we were enjoying a joke he thought somewhat
expensive to himself. He informed us that a foreign vessel had passed
them a few days previous; but they were now on their guard and would
have given us the next shot in our rigging. He pronounced our papers
satisfactory, and pulled off for the ship, being most heartily cheered
by us.

We were soon under way dashing along at lightning speed; soon arriving
at the confluence of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, fifty miles
above San Francisco, the latter river coming in from the east, the
former from the north. The strait up which we had sailed, running in the
same direction, is called, by many, the Sacramento river. At the
junction of the two rivers there is a marsh, of some extent, in the
midst of which is located the “New York of the Pacific,” of newspaper
notoriety. I am informed that it now contains _one house_. There were
not so many when we passed up. It is said there has never been a death
in the city. We soon entered “Sui Sun” bay, which is an extensive, but
very shallow body of water, requiring careful pilotage to take vessels
through in safety. We again enter the Sacramento, which now presents a
different appearance--the immediate margin being walled up by heavy
timber, beyond which the marsh extends as far as the eye can reach. The
depth of water on these marshes frequently covers the grass, presenting
the appearance of a succession of lakes--all swarming with water fowls.
Soon after reëntering the river our pilot brought us to a dead stand by
running us on a sand bar. It was ebb tide, and there was no alternative
but to await the flood. We loaded our rifles, lowered a boat, and pulled
for the shore, preparatory to a hunt.

On landing, we were greeted by the most ravenous swarm of mosquitos it
was ever my fortune to fall in with. They seemed to constitute the very
atmosphere, and for size and spirit, I think they are without rivals,
even in the “Montezuma swamp.” We did not at first retreat, but soon
came to the conclusion that game must be poor, where there are so many
_bills_ presented. We carried a few of them on board, and they were so
well pleased, they remained till morning. At 10, A.M., the tide flooded
us off, and we were again under way. We soon left the river, and entered
what is called the “slough,” which is a part of the river running out
twenty miles above, and by passing through it, half the distance is
saved. On both sides the “slough,” it is densely timbered; the branches
hanging over the stream, and many of the trees inclining over, it
required the greatest care to avoid their coming in contact with our
spars. We had a fine breeze, and each of the passengers took his turn at
the wheel. None of them attracted the attention of the captain, until it
became my turn. Whether it was that I understood navigation better than
my fellow-passengers, I am not prepared to say, but, certain it is, that
I had stood at the wheel but a moment, when, without consulting the
compass, I found myself at a dead stand in a tree-top. I did not claim
much credit for it, _and did not receive any_.

After cutting away branches, grapevines, etc., we were again under way,
with the captain at the wheel. He proved as skillful as myself, and made
fast to the first tree-top. We soon reëntered the main channel, and were
passing through a more

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
SUTTER
_3 miles below Sac City_]

pleasant country, being a succession of forest and plain. At 4, P.M., in
passing the mouth of a small stream, we again found ourselves aground,
with a prospect of waiting twelve hours for the next tide. A boat was
lowered, and some of the passengers went off to hunt. There were fish
here in abundance. We offered them refreshments, but they seemed to
“loathe the sight.” The passengers who had gone on shore, had
disappeared in the forest, but soon two of the number were seen hurrying
toward the shore. They pushed off the small boat, and were soon coming
over the side of the brig. They appeared much agitated, and, after
consulting a friend in whispers, the three started for the shore.

After an hour’s absence, they returned with their handkerchiefs filled
with something, which was evidently not for the public eye. It was
immediately put under lock and key. From the self-satisfied air and
knowing winks of the three fortunate individuals, it was apparent that
their fortune was full of hope. After mature reflection, they, no doubt,
came to the conclusion, that as there was enough for all, as it was in
their power, with a word, to place wealth within the grasp of all, it
was their duty to make all happy, without delay, and, with great
magnanimity, informed us that they had ascended the stream some
distance, and, as they approached the ripple, to their astonishment,
they found the water gurgling through pebbles of gold. They had each
secured a competence, assuring us that we could go and do likewise. Some
evil-disposed person stood by, who informed us that he noticed the same
thing, and did not think it was gold. The three above-mentioned
individuals, to reassure us, unlocked their trunks, but, lo! their
fortunes, like fancy-stocks at the present day, had a downward tendency.
It proved to be mica. It had somewhat the appearance of gold, but on
separating it from the sand, it was found to be very light, having the
appearance of small pieces of gilt paper. It was a most _blighting_
illustration of the adage, that “all is not gold that glitters,”
particularly to the three above-mentioned individuals. The bed of the
river at this place had the appearance of being constituted of golden
sands. The same has been noticed in almost all the streams in
California, and has, undoubtedly, given rise to many of the golden
reports. At 10, A.M., (Sunday,) we were again under way, the day
excessively hot, and at 12, M., arrived at “Sutterville;” and, when
opposite the _town_, found ourselves out of the channel, and aground. We
all went on shore, and had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of
one of the proprietors, with whom we walked a mile back from the _town_,
to view “_Capitol Hill_,” the _anticipated_ site of the State House.
Although we did not break ground for the cornerstone, we were among the
first to know the _precise spot_. The _town_ is situated four miles
below Sacramento City, and three from the fort. It contained three
houses, visible to the _natural_ eye, but, to the eye of the worthy
proprietor’s imagination, it numbered many thousands. This had caused a
very perceptible rise in the value of city lots.

It afterwards became a town of some twenty houses. The owners offered to
a company owning the bark “Josephine,” thirty lots provided they would
land their effects and make improvements. The proposition was accepted,
and the improvements commenced. (See Plate.) A cannon is seen in the
foreground which was taken from the Josephine, and used to salute
vessels in passing up and down the river, as occasion might require. At
the left, are two Oregonians riding at full speed, and in the centre is
seen the Indian chief, Olympia, his squaw, and several natives of lesser
note. The Josephine is seen at the river bank. She was subsequently sold
and sailed for Oregon.

I here visited a family that had been wandering about since 1845,
without having entered a house. There were two men, a woman, and three
children, from three months to five years of age. They started from one
of the Eastern States, with a wagon, two yoke of oxen, and two cows,
passed through Missouri, crossed the Rocky Mountains into Oregon, and
finally drove down to California. The children were all natives of the
forest except the eldest. They were encamped under a large oak-tree a
short distance from the river. The bed was made up on the ground, the
sheets of snowy whiteness, the kitchen furniture was well arranged
against the root of the tree, the children were building a playhouse of
sticks, while the mother was sitting in a “Boston rocker” reading the
Bible, with a Methodist hymn-book in her lap. The infant lay croaking on
a white flannel-blanket, looking like a blown up life-preserver. While
I

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
ENCAMPMENT AT SAC CITY, NOV. 1849.
_My own tent._]

was conversing with, the woman, one of the men went into the back room
to change his linen, _i. e._, he stepped behind the tree. They were all
enjoying good health and appeared happy. I am disposed to think their
house will be a poor protection during the rainy season; but for a
summer-house, one could not well conceive of one better ventilated.

The next morning the flood-tide swept us into the channel, and at ten,
we made fast to the bank at Sacramento city. This is at the junction of
the American river with the Sacramento, 150 miles from San Francisco.
Here, all was confusion and dust, each generating the other. This is the
point from which the first move is made, by land, for the mines, and
every man was on the run; mule-teams were moving in every direction,
some loading, others preparing to load, each surrounded by a halo of
dust which rendered mules and driver invisible. We were just in time to
find one tree unoccupied, consequently settled down and commenced
“keeping house.” We designed to remain in town until the next morning.
(See Plate.) This is my own tent. At this time, there were about one
hundred houses and tents in town; but it seemed that every man landed
with a house, and put it up the, same day. Our brig had no less than
thirteen on board, finished even to the glazing. Goods of every
description were piled up on the river-bank, awaiting the carman. The
owners were, in many instances, obliged to erect temporary shelters and
sell them on the ground.

I met several persons who had been in the mines and seen the “Elephant.”
Among others, a fellow passenger on the “Niantic.” He had been in the
country two weeks, and in the mines half an hour. He had just returned,
and was traveling through town trying to sell his utensils, preparatory
to returning to the States. He was completely decorated with his wares,
and looked like a country kitchen in disorder. He had a pair of grained
boots and a smoked ham in one hand, a piece of perforated sheet-iron, a
coffee-pot and frying-pan in the other, a pair of long India Rubber
boots, with pants attached, thrown over one shoulder, and a pair of
blankets under the arm. Over the other shoulder, was a long-handled
shovel, from which was suspended a camp-kettle, containing a pepper-box,
a pair of mining shoes, a piece of smoked beef, a Spanish grammar,
several sea-biscuit, a pick-axe without a handle, and one pound each of
sugar, coffee and bar-soap. All the above were offered at cost “_to
close the concern_.” Every thing here was on the highest key. The town
was only two months old, and lots were commanding New York prices. I was
advised to embark in trade; but my heart was in the high-land, and the
next morning at nine o’clock, we were moving for the interior, a party
of a dozen having hired a six mule-team.

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS 111. NASSAU ST. N. Y.
SUTTERS FORT
1849]




Chapter Twelve.

     SUTTER’S FORT--A HERD OF CATTLE--“LASSOING”--RIO DE LOS
     AMERICANOS--A DISAPPOINTED HUNTER--A CALIFORNIAN SERENADE--A MULE
     AND HIS RIDER--PARTING COMPANY--THIRST--SERENADES SUPPORTED BY
     DIRECT TAXATION--SIERRA NEVADAS.


We drove out a mile, to the margin of an extensive plain, where we
stopped at a well, filled our flasks, and moved on, a gentleman who had
a friend in the hospital at the fort, and myself, going in advance of
the team. The fort at the time of its construction, was an extensive
work, but now it is all in ruins excepting the inner inclosure, in which
are situated the dwelling, hospital and out-houses. (See Plate). It is
constructed of adobes, or unburned brick, prepared and laid up by Indian
labor; and I will here remark, that the Indians on the ranchos in
California, are considered as stock, and are sold with it as cattle, and
the purchaser has the right to work them on the rancho, or take them
into the mines. They are extremely squalid in appearance, and in the
most abject servitude. I have never found the natives, anywhere, in a
condition so degraded. We found the sick man in a very feeble state,
having been in the hospital six weeks with dysentery, which he had
contracted in the mines; and at this time there was but little hope of
his recovery.

The fort is situated in the midst of an extensive plain, three miles
from Sacramento city, and the same distance from the ferry and ford of
the American river, (Rio Del Americano). It is said the proprietor, in
one season, harvested nearly two thousand acres of wheat. At some
distance back of the fort we saw grazing one of those immense herds of
cattle for which California has been celebrated, (see Plate,) estimated
at from two to three thousand head. Before the gold was discovered hides
and tallow were the only articles of export, and cattle were raised and
slaughtered for these articles alone. They run in large herds, feeding
on the marshes in summer, and on the plains during the rainy season,
kept from the grain by ditches and embankments, with which the fields
are surrounded. They receive no care from the proprietors, and
consequently are shy, and taken only with the “lasso.” These are made of
raw hide, cut and platted like a whip-lash about fifty feet in length,
and the size of the finger. It has a small loop or pully in one end,
through which the other is passed and drawn up to a coil about five feet
in diameter. The other end is then fastened to the pommel of the saddle;
the rider taking the coil in his right hand coils the balance to the
same size, and mounts.

There are probably no better horsemen in the world, not excepting the
Cossacks, than the whites, half-breeds, and some of the Indians of
California. It has been said, that their only homes are upon the backs
of their horses, and nothing could possibly exceed the spirit and
reckless daring displayed on an occasion like this. Their dresses are
extremely picturesque. A high crowned hat with a black glazed covering,
trimmed with a gold-lace band and bell-buttons; a hunting shirt fastened
at the waist by a blue or red sash, and a belt containing a brace of
pistols, black velvet breeches, open at the side of the leg, the edges
trimmed with bell-buttons, showing the white drawers underneath. Below
the knee the leg is dressed in tanned skins, which are wound around and
fastened with strings; a pair of boots with a pair of massive iron
spurs, trimmed with heavy chains; the hind tree, as well as the pommel
of the saddle, rises quite abruptly, enabling one to retain his seat
either at a rear or plunge of his horse; the pommel terminating in an
eagle’s head, which prevents the lasso from slipping from the neck. The
trimming of the saddle covers the entire back of the horse, the stirrups
are of wood, made very large, with a leather covering in front,
protecting the foot and leg from mud, brush, &c.; the bridle has a heavy
iron bit and generally but one rein.

Thus mounted, a party of fifteen or twenty will approach a herd of
cattle, horses, or elk, as the case may be. As they approach the herd
takes fright, one snorts and starts, which is a signal for all, and they
dash away. The horsemen, each selecting his victim, now bear down upon
them with the speed of lightning. The herd, now aware of their pursuit,
redouble

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
REAR OF SUTTERS FORT,
_during the spring months_.]

their energies, straining every nerve, the earth fairly quaking beneath
their hoofs. The horses, as they near, display as much enthusiasm as
their riders, and seem to scorn the very earth. They are now upon them.
The herd, frantic and dismayed, begin to scatter. The horse now sees his
victim and bounds with the most reckless impetuosity. The horseman, now
rising in his saddle, throws his weight into the left stirrup, and with
his right hand swings the lasso until the coil is sufficiently open,
when it flies with the velocity and precision of an arrow, taking effect
around the horns or neck of the victim. The horse, understanding the
business, now slackens his speed, and prepares for the first shock, by
taking a bracing position. The victim straitens the lasso, bounds into
the air, and falls to the ground. The horseman dismounts, keeping his
left foot in the stirrup, to help counteract the frantic throes of the
victim which is now lacerated by balls from his pistols. Sometimes in
its phrenzy of madness the victim rushes upon his pursuers, causing a
precipitate retreat, and not unfrequently both horse and rider fall
victims to their own temerity.

As our team had not yet arrived, we walked on one mile to Grime’s fort,
a similar structure, and I believe the owner is a claimant of Sutter’s
claim. We walked on to the river, prepared ourselves and waded through.
On the opposite side, as we ascended the bank, we found ourselves on the
margin of a plain, stretching away as far as the eye could reach, with
nothing but an occasional oak to relieve the monotony. On the bank, a
short distance above, is a rancho, to which belongs the ferry, used only
during high water. This rancho belongs to the Sutter estate. There are
several thousand _head_ of cattle and horses belonging to it, and about
two hundred head of Indians. The soil has the appearance of being
extremely fertile, but at this time vegetation was parched with drought.
Sutter claims most of the country drained by the Sacramento and its
branches, which is all, of any agricultural value, in the north part of
the State.

Our team soon came up, and our driver informed us that it was ten miles
to the next water, consequently we were obliged to encamp on the bank of
the river, notwithstanding it was only 3 o’clock, P.M. We had averaged
one mile per hour. I loaded my rifle and went down the river to hunt; I
had promised myself a supper of wild duck, but they proved to be, on
that particular day, all crows, and I compensated myself in part by
picking a quantity of grapes. These were put into our camp-kettle and
served up for supper. We thought them delicious, but the next morning,
to our regret, we learned that we had forgotten to sweeten them. Late in
the afternoon, a party of Indians started, fully equipped, to lasso
horses, that were herding on the bottom lands of the Sacramento, six
miles distant. They rode at the top of their speed, the horse and rider
seeming moved by the same impulse. At night we spread our blankets in
the open air. Some one of the party had been throwing out insinuations
reflecting upon the character of the grizzly bear, that were said to
abound in our immediate vicinity; not only that they were in the habit
of “running around nights,” but that they had a tendency to cannibalism.
One of the party took a particular fancy to my rifle; whether it was the
beauty of the piece, his predilection for the owner, or the fiery
appearance of the cap, that stole his affections, I am not prepared to
say. He folded it in his blanket and seemed to sleep the better for it.
Soon after dark the California serenade commenced. The performers being
two packs of wolves, the prairie (coyotas) and large gray wolf, each
carrying a part, and in the latter were incorporated some of the best
alto voices I ever heard. We were aroused early in the morning by a
member of the above choir, who passed over the foot of our bed.

After breakfast we filled our flasks with water from the river and
started. Our team travelled in a cloud of dust which hid them from our
view. We moved on in advance. The day was excessively hot, and we were
obliged to stop often for our team, in order to refill our flasks. After
traveling five miles we overtook an ox-team loaded, and several mules
packed, on the way to the mines. (See Plate). There were also several
teams in the distance, moving in the same direction. We soon saw three
men mounted on mules, coming toward us, who appeared to be returning
from the mines. They were in high _spirits_, galloping along a little
off the main track. One of them, in order, probably, to show a proper
respect, pulled out his revolver and fired. His mule, taking the cue
from his master, wishing to

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
BETWEEN SACRAMENTO, AND THE MINES.]

make a proper demonstration in the presence of his fellow mules, gave a
few peculiar gyrations with his tail, threw his head up, then threw it
down, and threw his heels up, and at this particular time his master
threw his heels up, and they parted company. It would be difficult to
imagine a position more humble than the one assumed by the above
mentioned master. He was literally with his face in the dust, and I
never saw a more peculiar cast of countenance. If I had not seen the
above transaction, but had met him with the same expression of
countenance, I should have thought he had stolen the mule he was on, or
would steal one if he had an opportunity. He didn’t give us his card,
but hurried on in the direction of Sacramento city.

We found the country a continuous plain entirely destitute of water,
vegetation parched, and nothing showing signs of life excepting the few
scattering oaks, an occasional wolf, and numerous gray squirrels. These
last have much the appearance of the gray squirrels of the forests of
New York; but they burrow in the ground, in families. We exhausted the
supply of water we had put on board, and were suffering with thirst. The
sun had gained the meridian, and his rays were almost consuming. We
hurried on through clouds of dust, and at 2 P.M. reached the point at
which we expected to find water. To our painful surprise, the spring was
dry. It was three miles to the next, and we were almost crazy with
thirst. It was no time for deliberation. There was no alternative but to
push on. On arriving at the next spring, we found a puddle containing a
quart of water, the surface covered with yellow wasps. We were, however,
not fastidious, and drank all excepting the wasps. It again filled and
was again drained, until all had replenished their flasks. We here took
dinner, and moved on until about 5 P.M., when, after a most fatiguing
day’s journey, we reached the “half-way tent.” I here saw a herd of
deer, and notwithstanding the fatigues of the day, indulged in a “hunt,”
but without success.

Here, in the way of public accommodations, we found a tent, luxuriating
in the name of the “half-way house.” A rough board running the entire
length served as a table, the guests sleeping in the open air outside,
under the protection of their own blankets. A blacksmith had erected,
under a temporary covering of canvas, his anvil-block and forge, and
was busily engaged in repairing a damaged vehicle. (See Plate.)

Our cook is busily engaged in preparing supper, while Mr. Cooper and
myself devote the few remaining moments of twilight, to sketching the
surrounding scene. The snowy peaks of the Sierra Nevada are seen looming
up in the distance, now gilded by the last rays of the setting sun, and
now a dark imposing mass. Our teamster has just returned after a weary
search for pasturage for our mules. I am visited by an individual whose
personal appearance proclaims his own history more eloquently than it
can be described. He might be termed one of the oldest inhabitants,
having taken up his residence in the country before the gold excitement.
He claimed to be on terms of intimacy with the _delirium tremens_, was
deaf, had the rheumatism and scurvy, and said “he was not very well
himself.” His entire system seemed palsied by the use of rum, and so
little control had he over the lineaments of his face, that he could
only open his eyes by opening his mouth at the same time; hence, in
closing his mouth upon his pipe (which was in constant use) he was
obliged to part the lids of his left eye with his thumb and finger; so
confirmed had he become in this habit, that a protuberance had raised
upon his eyebrow and cheek-bone by the appliance. He was extremely
loquacious and imparted much _valuable_ information gratis, constantly
keeping that _piercing_ eye upon our brandy bottle. Mr. Cooper, who was
seated upon a log near, cast an inquisitive glance upon him, and I tried
to detect a family resemblance between the two. I was unable to learn,
however, that they were in the least connected, nor am I prepared to say
that their present acquaintance ripened into an intimacy. Two amiable
donkeys are standing patiently under their loads while their masters are
extracting “vegetables” from a demijohn.

We were serenaded, as usual, during the night. We had been under the
impression that the music was gratis, but learned, on this occasion,
that it was supported by _direct taxation_, one of the worthies having
taken a ham from our camp-kettle during the night. In addition to this,
I had the pleasure, in the morning, of _adding a note to his scale_,
with which he seemed so much pleased, that he went off _repeating it_,
until he was out of sight.

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS 111, NASSAU ST. N. Y.
AUTHOR AND ARTIST]

We took an early start and found the country more rolling, with an
occasional pine tree. It was evident that we were ascending into a more
elevated region, and from the higher points we could plainly see the
Sierra Nevada, their slopes pointing out the location of the river to
which we were journeying--the north branch of the American river. The
country abounded in massive rocks, sometimes piled up in ledges, and
sometimes forming the entire summits of the hills.




Chapter Thirteenth.

     VENISON--FIRST VIEW OF THE GOLD REGIONS--SURROUNDING
     SCENERY--“MORMON BAR”--A POCKET--MY MACHINE IN MOTION--CERTAINTY OF
     SUCCESS--FIRST DINNER--“PROSPECTING”--A GOOD “LEAD”--DISAPPOINTED
     MINERS--A NEW COMPANION--A HIGHER POINT ON THE
     RIVER--VOLCANOES--SNOWY MOUNTAIN--AUBURN--LONELY ENCAMPMENT.


We passed the night in the open air, and the next morning at eight
o’clock arrived at an encampment of teamsters who were just dressing a
deer and preparing breakfast. (See Plate.) The tree under which they
were encamped was on fire, on one side, to its very top--the other
supporting a luxuriant branch. The coffee-pot is on the fire and the
cook stands by, frying-pan in hand, waiting for the steak. At the left
the cattle are seen feeding; one of them, however, having resigned
himself to the “coyotas.” In the distance is seen a herd of deer
bounding away over the hill. On the right are seen teams wending their
way to the banks of the “North Fork” of the American river--freighted
with provisions and utensils for mining. It will be seen that we have
ascended into a more elevated region since leaving the last Plate. The
ascent has been gradual--almost imperceptible--still everything
indicates our elevation.

At ten we arrived at a junction in the roads, four miles from our point
of destination; we remained here until after dinner; we now felt that we
were about to try the realities of that for which we had left home and
friends, traveled thousands of miles, and endured hardships and
privations, the very thought of which makes the heart sick--we felt a
degree of anxiety, as a few hours would probably decide whether we were
soon to return to our friends or endure a long period of hardships in
the mines. After dinner we were again under way, and soon, leaving the
main road, we were running in the direction of the

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
TEAMSTERS BREAKFASTING,
_on the road to the Mines_.]

river. The road was good; but little timber; and the soil appearing well
adapted to agriculture. It was soon evident that we were in close
proximity to the river--the ravines all tending in the same direction;
frequent rocks of enormous size, and from the more elevated points we
could see a range of mountains rising on the other side. Having left the
team behind, we pressed forward, eager to get a glimpse of the river and
those employed in the golden pursuit; we soon arrived among the pines
which stud the banks, but were still obliged to climb a slight ascent
forming the immediate bank.

We soon gained the summit, and stood enraptured with the scene around
us. The river, saluting our ears with its restless murmurs, meandered at
the base of the mountain which had lifted us a mile above it. The banks
were dotted with tents and teeming with the Liliputian owners. On the
opposite side were mountains piled one above the other, terminating in a
range covered with eternal snow, presenting a scene of grandeur and
sublimity nothing can excel. The whitened peaks, reflecting the sun,
resembled the domes of some vast cathedral. Looking back, the entire
valley of the Sacramento was stretched out before us, bounded by the
coast range of mountains, beyond which we could look upon the Pacific
ocean--presenting a scene which, in extent, diversity, and grandeur is
rarely if ever equalled. In the valley we could see extensive fertile
plains, deserts of white sand, marshes, numerous lakes, dense forests,
marking the water courses; and no doubt, with a glass of sufficient
power, could have seen herds of elk, deer, antelope, and wild cattle.
There is but little vapor in the atmosphere at this season of the year,
and the vision is almost unbounded. Our team soon came up, and we
prepared to descend the mountain, which was very precipitous, and the
only place within ten miles at which the river can be reached with a
team. Our teamster chained the wheel and with much difficulty descended
the first step. He having been engaged in the same capacity during the
Mexican war, managed the descent with much skill, and reached the base
without accident.

We found ourselves at the “Mormon Bar,” forty-five miles from Sacramento
city. We pitched our tent and cooked dinner after which I paid the
teamster seventy-five dollars for three hundred pounds freight and
started off to visit the miners. I well remember that as I was going
down the side of the cañon I saw a hole in a rock, which I thought such
an excellent “pocket” that I resolved to pay it a secret visit, not
doubting that it contained a rich deposit. I afterward learned that the
“pockets” in California had not all been filled, and the one above
mentioned was never picked to my knowledge. I found a great many in
eager pursuit, some digging up the dirt, carrying it in buckets, or tin
pans, and throwing it into the rocker, while their companions would rock
the machine and pour in water, which would wash out the dirt, the gold
being retained by riffles, or cleats, in the bottom. The first machine I
saw in operation was being rocked by Mr. Devoe, and fed by Gen.
Winchester and his brother--all of New York. The two last named were in
the water knee deep, getting dirt from the bottom of a hole. I loaned
them a late New York paper, and we were soon acquainted. They were about
to take the gold from their machine and wished me to stay. This was just
what I wished to do, and, after a five minutes’ detention, they raised
the screen, exhibiting the bottom of the rocker, which was covered with
gold. I started for the tent, and it seemed that every rock had a yellow
tinge, and even our camp kettle, that I had thought in the morning the
most filthy one I had ever seen, now appeared to be gilded--and I
thought with more than one coat. During the night, yellow was the
prevailing color in my dreams. In the morning, hiring out two of the men
temporarily at ten dollars per day, I hired a machine at two dollars per
day, took the other man, went a short distance above Gen. Winchester’s
“lead” and soon found myself in a “lead” which I thought much better
than his.

“Bent” rocked and I put in the dirt. We resolved to run through twenty
buckets before raising the screen, and soon the perspiration began to
flow. He had a strong arm and I exerted every nerve to keep the machine
supplied. The dirt would pass through the screen almost instantly,
leaving the pebbles which he would scan very minutely, but finding no
large pieces of gold consoled himself with the thought, “the smaller the
more of them.” But now, after an hour’s incessant labor, we were about
to finish our first task, and had in the machine as

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
BROWN & SEVERIN LITH.
G. W. LEWIS PRINT.
MORMON BAR, ON THE NORTH FORK, AMERICAN RIVER.]

much as we thought it prudent to have at any one time; I stopped digging
but my heart kept on. The heat was most intense, the perspiration
gushing from every pore. Bent was in a fever of excitement. He was
naturally of a sandy complexion, but now his face added a deeper tinge
to his red flannel shirt collar. Our reward was in our machine, and
after putting in several dippers of water we raised the screen. It did
not look as we expected it would; there was any quantity of dirt and
_some_ gold.

We were not altogether satisfied with the result; still, we had just
commenced, and, perhaps, were not sufficiently near the granite. Our
“lead” was the best one on the bar--we _knew_ by the looks of it--and
the next twenty buckets must show a different result. Our ambition was
again up, and our machine in motion, and, if possible, with increased
energy. After running through several buckets of dirt, we raised the
screen. There was not much gold on the top, but there was _some_; and we
worked on, thinking that we had not yet reached the best part of our
lead. I noticed that after raising the screen, the machine was rocked
with less energy; and it seemed to add to the weight of my pick-axe. We
resolved to visit the General. They had done a fine morning’s work, and
were in high spirits. They told us of many who had opened “leads,” and
worked them two or three days without success, when some one else would
step in, and make a fortune the first day. This was precisely our case.
We had got our “lead” almost opened, and if we should step out, some one
would step in, and get the fortune. This we were not disposed to do. We
had got on track, and were determined not to give way to any one. We
looked up, but there was no one in our “lead.” On our way back we
discovered many natural advantages that our “lead” had over the
General’s, and an even exchange would have been to us no object.

Our machine was again in motion. The sun had now almost gained the
meridian. The heat was excessive. Bent’s red flannel was outside of his
pantaloons, dripping with perspiration. My blue one was in the same
condition. I would think of those abandoned “leads,” and wish I had two
buckets. He would think of them, flourish his dipper, and rock the
machine, until its very sides would quake. We finally prepared to
adjourn for dinner, took out the screen, put the contents of our machine
in a pan, and commenced to wash out the dirt, which required some time,
then walked up to dinner. On our arrival at the tent, we weighed the
gold, and found it worth one dollar.

As it was our first day in the mines, we resolved to dine on pork, a
favorite dish in California. We cut a quantity into slices, put it into
the frying-pan, laying on it a quantity of sea-biscuit, filling the pan
with water, and covering it with a tin plate. We kept it on the fire
until the water evaporated--it was then ready for use. Our coffee, in
the mean time, was boiled in the tin coffee-pot. Seating ourselves on
rocks in front of the tent, we expressed our appreciation of the swine
tribe in unmeasured terms. We take a respite of an hour, and return to
our labor. We are anxious to get down to the granite, as we are sure of
finding there a rich deposite. Towards evening we struck the granite,
and were within reach of a fortune, deposited here by nature for our
express benefit. As it was late, we resolved to wash down what we had in
the machine, and prepare for a successful effort on the following day.
On our arrival at the tent, we found “Harry” and “Sam,” stretched out on
the ground, groaning with fatigue, declaring that they had never worked
so hard before, nor would they again. They had seen enough of the mines,
and were determined to return to Sacramento. After telling them of the
brilliant success that was about to attend our efforts, they agreed to
remain another day. We had pork for supper, and spent the night in
dreams of luxury. After an early breakfast we were again at our “lead.”
We were particular to scrape the granite, as we uncovered it, and after
running through ten buckets, we raised the screen; to our surprise, we
were doing no better than on the previous day. This we could not account
for. The only solution was, that the gold had never been there, and why,
we could not divine. It had the same appearance as the General’s lead,
which was paying the three from fifty to eighty dollars per day.

We worked on for some time, when “Bent” went up to cook the dinner, (we
had resolved to have pork,) and I took the pick, shovel, and pan, and
went “prospecting.” After walking some distance, I found a place which
combined, as I thought, every indication of a rich deposit, and my only
surprise was, that it had not been discovered before. It was on the
lower side of a large rock, which must, at high water, break the
current, forming an eddy below, where the gold must settle. On
discovering a “lead,” one has only to leave his pick, and his title is
indisputable. I left my implements, and hurried up to the tent. After
dinner we carried our machine to the spot, and were soon in a profuse
perspiration. “Bent” would frequently lift the screen, and it was very
apparent that the prospect beneath was not brilliant. He had become a
kind of thermometer to our success, and at every inspection his energy
would lag, and my bucket would grow the heavier. Late in the afternoon
we washed down our half-day’s work, and went up. Harry and Sam were
writhing with fatigue. Harry had over-heated himself; Sam, being a
mulatto, could endure the heat,--but his muscles had lost their tension,
and every bone was cracked. He was willing to stay, if I wished him to,
but Harry was bound for Sacramento. Bent said but little, still I could
plainly see a cloud in his horizon. He had an impediment in his speech;
and when I asked him what he thought of the prospect, he got into close
proximity to some very hard words, and, with great magnanimity, wished
the mines in the possession of an individual of brimstone notoriety,
whose name I will not mention. After supper, we weighed our afternoon’s
work, and had seventy-five cents. The man for whom Harry and Sam had
been working, had taken possession of a bar, which was paying him well.
As a general thing, the bars had been “prospected,” and the parts that
would pay taken possession of. There was, however private “leads” opened
daily, from which something could be made. Harry and Sam were too sore
to start down the next day, consequently they resolved to rest; and Bent
was willing to work the machine another day. As for myself, I must
confess that the camp-kettle had lost one coat of its gilding, and the
rocks were about the same color as those in the States.

We took an early start, and devoted an hour to “prospecting.” This time
we were more successful, we found a “lead” from which we got twenty
particles of gold in the first pan-full. We soon had our machine on the
spot. As we were placing it several miners passed on the way to their
work. They all looked, _we thought_, as if they considered us the most
fortunate of men, and we detected a lurking envy in their expression. As
soon as they left, our machine was put in motion; we now had no doubt as
to the result, and after running through ten buckets of dirt we raised
the screen, but, to our astonishment, there was not a particle of gold
to be seen. This was beyond our comprehension. We could not conceive of
a more convenient place for gold to deposite than this particular one,
and determined not to abandon it until we had reached the granite. This
we reached, and toiled on until noon, when we emptied our machine, and
had two dollars’ worth of gold. We adjourned to dinner, and learned that
a team had just arrived and was to return to Sacramento city the next
day. Harry, Sam, and Bent immediately resolved to take passage. They had
had their expenses paid to California, and were to work under the
direction of the Company, and have a portion of the proceeds. They, no
doubt, considered the dividends too small in proportion to the labor. I
determined to make a more thorough trial of the mines, and not wishing
to be encumbered sold the provisions, cooking utensils, &c., hired the
tent carried back, and the next morning the teamster had every
individual that accompanied our mule-team up, excepting a young man who
had been sleeping on the ground near our tent and myself. They all, no
doubt, had the same exalted opinion of the mines, and returned with
purses equally well filled. Harry and Sam had earned $40 beside what
Bent and myself had earned. This, together with what I received for
provisions, &c., amounted to $200, which I put into the hands of Harry
to give to one of the firm, who was at Sacramento city.

I was now alone. The two companions of the young man spoken of above,
had left him, and circumstances seemed to throw us in each other’s way,
and makes us companions. His name was Tracy. He and his companions,
Scillinger and Hicks, were from Sante Fé; they had crossed the
mountains, eaten their proportion of mule steak, and endured every
conceivable hardship. We were at once friends. We determined to gain a
higher point on the river, and, if possible, find a place where our
efforts would be more liberally rewarded. We consequently filled a small
camp-kettle with pork and hard bread, rolled up our blankets, to which
we lashed our pick and shovel, and slung them over our shoulders. Our
camp-kettle, coffee-pot, rifles, and tin-pans, in hand, we set out on
our expedition. We first ascended the mountain, and when at the summit
stopped to view the magnificent scenes around us; the heat was intense;
the thermometer stood at 100°; still we were looking upon a range of
mountains shrouded in eternal winter.

Our route lay over a succession of mountains, the peaks of which bore
unmistakable signs of volcanic formation, being covered with lava. Our
journey was a most fatiguing one, and at noon, having gained an elevated
point, we sat down to rest. I here noticed, for the first time, a
phenomenon which is of frequent occurrence during the summer months. A
heavy white cloud resembling a bank of snow rises from the Snowy
Mountains (Sierra Nevada,) and after gaining a certain altitude passes
off to the south, and is succeeded by another. After disposing of a
certain quantity of hard bread and pork, and kissing our flask, we
stretched ourselves out on the ground under the shade of a pine tree,
and were soon in the embrace of Morpheus. In one hour we were again
under way, and at 3 o’clock, P.M., arrived at the “dry diggings,” (now
Auburn.) This was a place of three tents, situated on the main road
leading to the Oregon trail, which it intersects twenty miles above.
These mines were not being worked to any extent, owing to the scarcity
of water. There were a few, however, engaged in carrying dirt, a mile on
their backs, and washing it at a puddle, in _town_. It was very
uncertain business. The gold found here was in larger particles than in
the river “diggings,” but there was a much greater uncertainty in
obtaining it, some toiling for weeks without making a dollar, and
sometimes finding pieces worth from $50 to $500. The gold has the
appearance of having been thrown up in a molten state, perhaps during a
volcanic eruption, and dropped into the earth.

After an hour’s detention we were again under way, and after traveling
sometime over mountains, changed our course, wishing to reach the river.
After an hour of the most fatiguing effort we were on a brink, with the
river beneath our feet, but so distant that it had the appearance of a
meandering pencil mark. We could, however, hear its subdued murmuring as
it struggled through its rocky channel. After a short rest, we commenced
the descent, which we found extremely precipitous, requiring the
greatest caution and attended with the most painful exertions. Sometimes
losing our foothold, we would slide down until we could catch by the
shrubs for support, and at others, be precipitated to the bottom of the
step. We at length reached the base and found ourselves on a small bar.
It being after sunset, we kindled a fire, steeped some green tea,
broiled a quantity of pork, by putting it on the end of a stick and
holding it in the fire, and after toasting the sea-biscuit, we sat down
on the rocks and paid our cook a most flattering compliment. I must
confess that I never felt the gnawings of hunger more keenly than on
this occasion, nor did I ever more fully appreciate the influence of
green tea. We were much fatigued, and after removing some of the larger
stones, spread our blankets and prepared for sleep.

We were strangers, never having spoken until a few hours previous; yet,
having been thrown together by chance in a strange land, we felt a
mutual interest that could scarcely have been stronger, had we been
brothers. I must here say, that I was associated with Mr. Tracy for the
succeeding three months, and no brother could have been more attentive
or sympathetic. Soon after we were blanketed, the moon gained a
sufficient altitude to look down into the cañon upon us. Our situation
was novel in the extreme. The mountains rose on either side to the
height of more than a mile, almost perpendicular. The moon and stars
looking in upon us with unusual brilliancy. The distant and incessant
howl of numerous packs of wolves, the restless gurgling and chafing of
the river, as it struggled angrily through its rocky channel, our lonely
and isolated situation, all conspired to generate strange thoughts, and
to bring up strange, and often unpleasant associations. To look at the
moon and think that our friends might be, at that moment, looking at the
same orb, and thinking of us--thinking, perhaps, that we were already
preparing to return home, having accomplished our most sanguine
expectations; then to look at the reality, think of the dark prospect
ahead, of the time that must intervene before we could think of
returning, of the innumerable hardships and privations that still
awaited us, a gloom imperceptibly stole over our imaginations, and hung
upon our thoughts like an incubus. But sleep soon dispelled our
melancholy, and wild fancy restored us to our friends.




Chapter Fourteenth.

     A SEA CAPTAIN AS COOK--A HERD OF DEER--RETURN TO MORMON
     BAR--KEEPING HOUSE--OUR MACHINE IN MOTION--$1,500 IN ONE HOUR--AN
     ELOPEMENT--WASH DAY--SPORTING--PROSPECTING--DISCOVERY OF
     GOLD--EXCITEMENT--FATIGUE--THE CAKES “HURRIED UP”--INCENTIVES TO
     EXERTION--CANALLING A BAR.


We rose in the morning with renewed vigor, and after breakfast,
thoroughly prospecting our bar, (see Plate,) we moved on up the river.
We found the passage in many places extremely difficult, obliging us to
climb precipices to the height of two to three hundred feet. We examined
closely, but found no place sufficiently rich to pay for working. At
about 12 M. we arrived at a bar that was being worked by a company that
had recently purchased it of another company for $2,500.

Their labor was attended with fair success, but they did not succeed in
making wages after paying the above sum. There is a law established by
custom in the mines, which allows a man a certain space, generally ten
feet, extending across the river. It is by this law that companies take
possession of bars, and their claim is never disputed, as it is a
privilege of which all wish to avail themselves. We ascended the river
still higher, but found nothing to encourage us. We deliberated some
time and concluded to reascend the mountain. We returned to the
encampment of the above-mentioned bar, where we found an old man, a sea
captain, acting as cook. They had no tent, but slept in the open air.
The cook had a large camp-kettle hanging on a tripod under a live
oak-tree, cooking pork and beans, and preparing dinner for thirty men.
It seemed a strange occupation for a sea captain; still, it had not yet
lost its novelty, and he seemed to enjoy it much. I noticed, however,
that he would frequently hitch up his pantaloons and look “aloft.” After
resting an hour

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
J. C. TRACY AND MYSELF “PROSPECTING.”]

we went to a ravine, filled our flasks with spring-water and commenced
ascending the mountain. On arriving near the summit we came upon a herd
of deer, and wounded one, but did not succeed in capturing it. We soon
found ourselves again in view of the Snowy Mountains and resolved to
encamp for the night. After partaking of a sumptuous meal, (pork and
hard bread) we again reclined on the couch of nature, her sweetest
incense borne by the gentle breezes to our sleeping senses. (The _dust_
was blowing furiously.)

We took an early start on our return to Mormon Bar, and arrived in the
evening much fatigued. We resolved to make an effort here at mining, and
back it up with any amount of energy. We purchased a machine and made
all the preliminary arrangements in the evening, preparatory to a start
at an early hour. We had no tent, consequently resolved to rent a suit
of apartments from Nature, and looking about we found a large rock on
the brink of a precipice, one hundred feet above the river. The place
was secluded and pleasant. In front of the rock, on the mountain side,
was a kitchen sufficiently large for _our_ family, including the
sleeping apartment. The space was shaded by a small oak tree; and,
growing against the rock, were two other trees. Behind the rock was a
space about twelve feet square, well shaded and was to serve as our
dressing-room. A person to jump out of the back window would land in the
river.

Tracy had volunteered to act as cook, and in order to have things in
harmony, I called him wife, and _he_ was perhaps as well calculated to
get along under the circumstances as any _one_ I could have got. As to
kitchen furniture, he cared more for the useful than ornamental, and was
calculated to manage the domestic affairs with the strictest economy. We
had a small camp-kettle, a coffee-pot, and two tin plates; I had a knife
and fork and tin cup. Tracy had a pocket-knife, and a water-tight Indian
basket, which served him as a coffee-cup. I slung my hammock to the
trees that grew against the rock; he spread his blanket on the ground, a
few feet distant, and we were keeping house.

We arose in the morning full of energy, and didn’t think there were any
two individuals in that “section” destined to accomplish more than
ourselves. We shouldered our implements and were soon on the margin of
the river. As we were placing our machine, a miner came along and
informed us that, on the previous day, a Mr. Eccle had got out in one
hour $1,500. We had suspected all along that there were rich deposits in
the vicinity, and now our _suspicions_ were confirmed. Our machine was
soon in operation, and as the $1,500 would flash across our imagination,
I would strike my pick the deeper. Tracy would flourish his dipper,
strike up some familiar air, and the cradle would rock as if propelled
by the furies. If there had been _anything_ in it except dirt Tracy
would have had an accompaniment to his song. We washed through ten
buckets, and raised the screen; it did not look very encouraging--we run
through ten more--Tracy thought there _wasn’t quite as much as there was
before_--he began to lag, and I must confess I was obliged to recur
often to the $1,500 to keep the necessary elasticity in my suspenders;
we stopped a moment to rest, and speculate on the probable appearance of
the spot where the above sum was obtained; we came to the conclusion
that it _must_ have looked very like the spot we were then at work in.
Our machine was again in motion, and with renewed energy; Tracy was
really outdoing himself; the $1,500 would flit through his imagination
and he would almost throw the machine into spasms; I expected every
moment to see his pantaloons and red flannel shirt part company; the
only connecting link was a single India rubber suspender which was
stretched to its utmost tension. We resolved to run through one hundred
buckets before dinner, and, by straining every nerve, accomplished it.
We panned down our half-days’ work--it amounted to two dollars. It had
been excessively hot, the thermometer rose to 106°, and when we arrived
at our encampment we were as wet as if we had been wading the river. We
boiled some pork and sea-biscuit together in our camp-kettle, made
coffee, and having placed two large stones against the rock, sat down to
dinner. Our spirits were buoyant and our anticipations high.

Soon after dinner our machine was again making its spasmodic movements,
and continued them during the afternoon; we did not allow ourselves to
forget the strong resemblance between our “lead” and the one in which
the $1,500 was obtained. At night we had another two dollars to put into
the company purse. It is Saturday night, and we feel that we shall hail
the day of rest with pleasure. After supper we retire, having our usual
serenade, and during the night one of the troupe made love to and eloped
with one of Tracy’s boots; I imagined from a hint thrown out in the
morning that he would have preferred dispensing with the music.

Mining operations cease on the Sabbath; and miners attend to mending,
washing, &c. Tracy and myself went to the river to do our washing; the
vocation to me was entirely new. I commenced on a pair of white merino
drawers which I sometimes used instead of pantaloons; they looked very
well when I commenced, but it was different after working on them half
an hour; it would have troubled an experienced washerwoman to tell what
color they ought to be; I first tried soap, then sand, but it was of no
use; it appeared only to _set the color_. I put them in the river and
put a stone on them; what effect the rainy season had on them, I have
not been able to learn. I took my rifle, and trespassed on the Sabbath
by shooting a rabbit and several quails; we consequently spent the
afternoon in feasting, and on Monday morning were in a condition to
_tire_ our machine.

We resolved to run through two hundred buckets, and no two men ought,
and few could do more. When night came we had $4 to add to the purse. We
resolved to spend the next morning prospecting. We started at an early
hour, and after testing a number of points, decided upon one, and
immediately started our machine. At noon, not liking the result, we
determined to spend the afternoon in a further search. We went some
distance up the river, carefully examining every point, until we came to
a perpendicular ledge of rocks, overhanging the river. We thought no one
had ever attempted to ascend this, and by doing so ourselves might find
on the other side what had not been examined. We succeeded in gaining
the summit, and on going down the other side, commenced to examine the
crevices of the rocks. To our astonishment, Tracy found a piece of gold
worth a dollar. We were much excited. It was too much to bear in
silence. He opened his mouth to halloo but his eye again fell upon the
piece of gold and he did not. We found several smaller pieces, and were
now satisfied that we had at last found the place for which we had been
so long and anxiously looking. We followed down the side to the river,
and there found a small bar, into which the gold must find its way, as
it was washed from the crevices above. We examined the bar and found
particles of gold, and decided to take possession at once. It was late
in the afternoon, but at this particular time, we decided not to put off
till to-morrow what ought to be done to-day, and immediately started for
our machine, which was a mile distant. We were soon underway ladened
with our implements, with perspiration gushing from every pore. We found
our task a hard one; were often obliged to rest, and as often would our
success flit across our imaginations, when we would again shoulder our
machine, and push on. It was dark long before we reached our
destination; we were obliged to climb over crags of rocks, where one
misstep would have precipitated us into the river below. We toiled on,
and at length reached our destination. We would gladly have remained
here during the night, but our clothes were saturated with perspiration,
and, although the days were hot, the nights were on the other extreme,
sometimes rendering it uncomfortably cold, even under our woollen
blankets. There was no alternative but to return, and we again ascended
the precipice, and after a most fatiguing march reached our encampment.
I had heard of people’s bones aching “out loud,” but this was the first
exhibition of the kind I had ever witnessed. We were soon in the embrace
of Morpheus, and fancy carried us home.

We arose much fatigued, but hope was preëminent, and we were soon under
way, with the brightest anticipations. Our machine was again in motion;
I never felt stronger, and at every bucket-full Tracy would give his
dipper an extra flourish, his India-rubber suspender fairly grinning
with excitement. We did not fear for the result, and kept our machine in
motion until noon, when on raising the screen we found we had made about
fifty cents. We had, however, not yet reached the granite, and our
spirits were not dampened. We worked during the afternoon, reaching and
scraping the granite, and at night would have been one dollar richer
than in the morning, if some one had been boarding us gratis. We had
exhausted our lead and took our implements back to the first scene of
operations. We continued to labor hard during the week, and Saturday
night, on making out our balance sheet, we had earned $13.50 each, which
was less than the cost of our provisions. It is said that prosperity
begets want, and it was precisely so in our case. On Sunday morning we
went to the store, purchased flour at seventy-five cents per pound, and
a frying-pan for $5, determined to spend the day in feasting.

A team had just arrived from Sacramento with eight fortunate
individuals, who had heard that this was the place where men were
getting $1,500 per hour, and as they had just arrived from the States,
they were willing to _commence even at that rate_. The teamster informed
me that Bent, Harry, and Sam “_put in_” at Sacramento, in “stress of
weather,” having got on a drunken spree, and spent the $200. On our
arrival at the encampment Tracy took his basket, put in some water,
stirred in flour, and was soon using our frying-pan. I practiced turning
the cakes, and soon became so skilled that I could hit the pan every
time. We held a consultation. Tracy was determined to continue mining,
but I resolved to go to Sacramento and prepare to embark in something
that would pay better. A few individuals were doing well in the mines,
and there were comparatively but few. Ours was about the average
success. The mass were merely paying expenses. There were a thousand
extravagant stories constantly circulating, of men who had made fortunes
in an hour, and Mr. Eccles did really in that length of time, get $1,500
in our immediate vicinity. Each one naturally considered himself
destined to be one of the fortunate ones, and if he has only made a
dollar to-day, he is quite confident that he will make a hundred
to-morrow, or, perhaps, a thousand. The same influences operate upon the
mind as in gambling, and chances of success are about equal, although
mining is not attended with the same disastrous results.

The country is rich in gold, the supply is inexhaustible. The entire
soil of the mountainous parts is impregnated with it. It seems an
ingredient or constituent of the soil. Still, in its natural
distribution, it is not sufficiently abundant to pay for collecting. It
is found most plentifully on bars in the rivers, where it is deposited
during freshets, or at the confluence of ravines, which sweep down the
side of the mountains uniting at the base, where the gold naturally
deposits during the rainy season. “Bars,” in California _parlance_, are
the low tongues of land at abrupt bends in the river. (See Plate.) They
are generally formed in whole, or in part by freshets. During the rainy
season, torrents rush down the sides of the mountains, freighted with
gold, dirt and stones, which, when coming in contact with the main
stream, are borne along until an abrupt bend in the river checks the
current, an eddy sets back a certain distance, at which point the heavy
substances are deposited. A canal is cut across the root of the tongue,
at the head of which a dam is thrown across the river, which turns the
water from its natural channel, enabling miners to work below
water-mark.




Chapter Fifteenth.

     START FOR SACRAMENTO CITY--THE “NIAGARA CO.”--FREDERIC JEROME--A
     LOVE-CHASE--HEROINE UNDER A BLANKET--SUSPICIOUS BOOTS--PART OF A
     LADY’S HAT FOUND--A BALL--ARRIVAL AT SACRAMENTO CITY--POOR
     ACCOMMODATIONS--RETURN TO THE INTERIOR--A CHASE--A NEW YORK
     MERCHANT--BEALS’ BAR--EMBARK IN TRADE--A MOUNTAINEER--INDIAN
     CHARACTERISTICS.


On Monday morning I bade Tracy farewell, and started for Sacramento,
promising to report at the earliest possible moment. After walking four
miles I was taken sick and stopped at a tent until morning, when,
feeling better, I left my rifle and pursued my journey. The heat was
excessive, and the road a dreary one, with nothing to break the
monotony. I exhausted the contents of my flask and was soon suffering
with thirst; I met a gentlemen who supplied me with water, and I moved
on. After traveling some twelve miles, as I was pursuing my course I was
surprised at hearing a voice, and immediately heard my name called. I
looked up and saw at a short distance from the road, two tents, and on
approaching, found a company of gentlemen of Lockport, N. Y., who had
been fellow passengers up the Pacific. They had started for the
interior, and on reaching this point their wagon broke down, the team
strayed, and left them no alternative but to encamp. As they were in the
immediate vicinity of the river, they had commenced mining, and I am
happy to add, with unexpected success. This they richly deserved, for a
more gentlemanly, hospitable and energetic set of men, it was never my
fortune to fall in with. They styled themselves the “Niagara Co.,” and I
have had the pleasure of meeting one of the gentlemen in this city since
my return. At their solicitation I visited their works, and remained
over night, and when I parted with them in the morning, it was like
parting with brothers.

I started at day-break and after traveling an hour, fell in with
Frederick Jerome, well known for his heroic efforts, in saving the
passengers of the Ocean Monarch. He and his companions were bound for
the interior. I soon came out on the margin of a prairie, some four
miles in diameter, the road running through its center; I had but just
entered upon it, when I discovered the track of a--not a grizzly bear,
dear reader, but of a female. I did really discover the track of a
female in California. It may seem a trivial circumstance to you, it was
not so to me. A galvanic battery would not have created a more startling
sensation, and I was half-tempted to faint in honor of the occasion. It
was a small foot, encased in a slipper of the finest mould; then there
was such a witching air about it, so pert, the toes turned a little out,
the heel set down with just enough decision, and a something coquettish
in the way she raised it up; then there was a sprightliness and
elasticity, quite perceptible. I soon came to where she had turned
round, as if she had been expecting me, and without designing to be
silly, I soon found myself on a “round trot.” I hurried on, buried in
thought and conjecture, sometimes imagining it some one I had seen in
the States; the track seemed familiar. Sometimes I would remember having
met her at a cotillon party, and then I would notice a change in the
track, as if she had been thinking of the same thing, and taking some of
the “old steps;” I could see that the toe had removed a greater quantity
of dust, as if she had been taking the standing, instead of the
“chessa”; balance. But the distance between us was fearful. I could see
several miles and could not see her, and she might take another road. As
these thoughts were running through my mind, I would come to myself, and
find myself running at the top of my speed, the perspiration oozing from
every pore. I was fast gaining the opposite side, and hope was in the
ascendant.

I began to think of my personal appearance, which is in such cases of
the most importance. After a careful examination, I came to the
conclusion that it was not very flattering. I had not shaved in six
months; I had on an under-shirt and cravat, pantaloons and long boots, a
Panama hat, blue flannel shirt outside, over which was a belt with a
sheath-knife, and a blue sash. I had seen men as badly dressed as
myself. I was in hope she had, and hurried on. I soon reached the
forest, and was on the _qui vive_, scanning every rock and log,
expecting to find her at rest after her fatiguing walk across the
prairie. I walked on, examining every shade, without seeing her. I soon
saw at some distance a thick grove of underwood, the road passing
through it, and I thought I saw a smoke rising beyond it. I soon arrived
near, approaching very cautiously, and keeping an eye in the direction
of the smoke. I was not frightened, but my nervous system was in an
unusual state of agitation. I wiped off the perspiration, and continued
my cautious approach. I was soon sufficiently near to see what I at
first thought to be a tent, but on a nearer examination proved to be
blankets thrown over a pole, and sweeping the ground. I saw no one. I
approached still nearer, and came to the conclusion that she was under
the blankets taking her morning _siesta_. I still drew nearer, and
stopped to take a survey of the premises. Just beyond the blankets I saw
what appeared to be two pairs of heavy boots, and on changing my
position they both _appeared_ to have men in them. I neither fainted,
nor ran, but I walked on noiselessly to a proper distance and sat down
to rest. The men were sleeping on the ground, and I have no doubt the
lady was doing the same under her temporary shelter. They had
undoubtedly been to the mines, and perhaps became disheartened, and were
returning to town.

The scarcity of ladies in California, is the theme of much conversation.
There is an anecdote almost universally told in connection with the
subject; it is as follows: At a certain point in the mineral regions,
part of a lady’s hat was discovered, which caused so much excitement and
joy, that it was immediately decided to have a ball on the spot, in
honor of the event. Invitations were immediately distributed throughout
the country, and, on the appointed day, three hundred miners assembled,
each dressed in a red flannel shirt, and accompanied by a bottle of
brandy. In the _exact spot_ was driven a stick, five feet high, on the
top of which was placed _the_ hat, and around it was wrapped a flannel
blanket. It was made to represent, as nearly as possible, a female form.
By the side of this was placed a miner’s cradle, or machine, in which
was placed a smoked ham, also wrapped in a flannel blanket. At the close
of each dance the president of the meeting would rock the cradle, while
the secretary would pour a bottle of brandy down the back of the lady’s
neck. The ball lasted two days, at the end of which time the ground was
surveyed into town-lots, and called Auburn. It has been spoken of in a
former chapter.

After waiting an hour without discovering any signs of life in the camp,
the sun admonished me that I must move on. I pursued my lonely walk
until 11 o’clock, P.M., when I reached the American river. I prepared
myself and waded through, and in one hour was passing Sutter’s Fort. The
dogs appeared to be on duty, and hailed me with such ferocity that I
have no doubt they thought I meditated an attack. I hurried on, and at
midnight reached Sacramento city. I found it impossible to get lodgings,
and was obliged to seek shelter under some one of the large oaks in the
suburbs of the town. Even here it was difficult to find a spot
unoccupied. I found a place, however, by going some distance, and spread
my blanket with a fair prospect of having the bed all to myself. It had
been excessively hot during the day, but now a heavy dew had fallen, the
air was cold, and after laying an hour found myself stiff and lame, and
chilled to the very heart. I arose, but found it difficult to walk. I
succeeded in reaching an unfinished house, into which I crawled, and
spent the balance of the night in a vain effort to sleep.

In the morning I took a survey of the town, purchased a horse, and
prepared for another incursion into the interior. A friend wished to
accompany me, and at 4 o’clock, P.M., we were under way. We crossed the
river and took our course across the plain in the direction of the great
bend of the American River. Late in the afternoon, as we were galloping
along, we fell in with a pack of wolves (coyotas,) and as we were both
well mounted we were fast overhauling them. They were crazy with fright,
making two or three tremendous leaps, then turning to look at us, their
alarm would increase and they would bound away. We were close upon them
when my companion’s girth broke, and we were obliged to give up the
chase. If they have _ever_ come to the conclusion to stop, I am
confident it was not in that immediate vicinity, for I never saw animals
so frightened. What they were doing when we came upon them, I am unable
to say. It has been suggested that they may have been tuning

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
BROWN & SEVERIN LITH.
G. W. LEWIS PRINT.
SOUTH FORK, AMERICAN RIVER.]

their instruments preparatory to their evening concert. I was disposed
to fall in with this suggestion, from the fact, that _that_ was the only
night during my stay in the country, that I did not listen to their
music. If they took the trouble to stick up a notice of postponement, it
read, undoubtedly, as follows: “Postponed indefinitely on account of a
fright in the family.”

We resumed our journey and at 10 P.M., arrived at the bend. After
watering our horses we secured the ends of their lassos, and taking our
supper, we rolled ourselves in our blankets. In the morning we directed
our course towards Beal’s Bar, a higher point on the river. As we were
galloping along (California horses cannot trot) we met a gentleman whom
I recognized as a New York acquaintance. He was a New York merchant, and
when at home, somewhat noted for his dashing appearance. His appearance
on this occasion was so extremely ludicrous, I could not withstand the
temptation of taking a sketch. (See Plate.) He was returning from the
mines, and at the time we came upon him, a coyota was casting
inquisitive glances in that direction, as if in doubt whether it was
really a man, or a fellow-member of the _California Harmonic Society_.
He had on a slouched hat, which, together with his whiskers and
moustache, almost hid his face; a mariner’s shirt, and a pair of
drawers, which were, on this occasion, serving in the place of
pantaloons, being _suspended_ by two strips of a woolen blanket, crossed
in front. A rifle on his shoulder, pipe in his mouth, and blankets in
hand, he looked the very personation of a corn-field effigy.

After a short detention we moved on, arriving at the Bar at 12 M. After
dinner we went down to the scene of operations, my friend wishing to
purchase an interest. The bar was divided into thirty shares, owned by
as many individuals. They worked as a company and divided the proceeds
at night. Shares were commanding $2,800 each. Beal’s Bar was at this
time paying about $20 per day to a man. They had, however, expended a
large amount of money in turning the water from the channel. After
remaining two hours, we started in the direction of the Mormon Bar,
where we arrived at 9 P.M. Tracy was in an ecstasy. He provided supper
with great alacrity, and even let my friend occupy half his bed.

I had resolved to engage in the mercantile business at this point, and
having heard the present store was for sale, I called on the proprietor
for his terms. They did not appear favorable and I started the next
morning for Sacramento, accompanied by my friend. We arrived that
evening, and the next morning I commenced buying a stock. I was soon on
my return. We were three days in reaching our destination, and such a
time! We had a span of mules and a span of horses before the wagon, and
a nice matched span of drivers. I paid $20 for an extra team on the
route, and finally reached our destination. I deposited my goods under a
tree, having canvas with which I designed to erect a store. The next
morning I succeeded in buying out the other store, and before night had
possession. I now felt that I had the helm of a craft I knew how to
manage, and was fairly at sea. I immediately hired a Frenchman as cook
at $50 per week, and Tracy became a guest. I was now pleasantly
situated, with every prospect of success. I soon purchased a share in
the bar--paid $1,100. At this time it was yielding abundantly, and I had
every assurance of an ample remuneration. Throughout the country there
is a strong propensity for gambling. People appear to engage in it for
want of other amusement. The store I had purchased had been used for the
purpose every night since its construction, but it became so great a
nuisance, I was obliged to prohibit it excepting on particular
occasions.

I here had an opportunity of seeing many of those strange adventurers
who are met with only on the extreme frontiers, and who have as great an
aversion to law and civilization as they have to the manacles of a
prison. I had had the store but a few days, when one of these strange
beings crossed my path. I must confess there was nothing, at first
sight, to attract my admiration. About nine in the morning I saw,
approaching the store, a strange looking being, mounted on a gray horse,
a _poncho_ thrown over his shoulder, over which was slung a huge rifle,
skins wrapped around his legs, a pair of Mexican spurs on, and a
slouched hat which partially obscured his copper complexion. As he rode
up, Tracy recognized him as an old mountaineer, whom he had seen in
Santa Fé. After the recognition, Tracy says “Jim! whose horse is that?”
Jim--“I’ll be G--d d--nd to H--ll if I know.” Tracy--“where did you get
him?” Jim--“_I stole him from an Indian, by G--d._” I have no doubt his
declarations were true, for he claimed the credit (and I was informed he
deserved it) of being the most accomplished horse-thief in all New
Mexico. He informed Tracy that he was “dead broke” and hungry, and
wished him to ask me for something to eat. I requested Prince to get him
some breakfast, after which he was as rich as Crœsus, and commenced
giving me his life. It was a most exciting romance, interspersed with
thrilling adventures and “hair-breadth ’scapes.” I was convinced that
his story, in the main, was true, not because he _swore_ to it all, but
because Tracy was acquainted with the most important facts. He was a
mixture of the negro, Indian, and Anglo-Saxon blood, and born in New
Mexico. His earliest training was in the art of horse and mule stealing,
in which art he had become a connaisseur. He commenced by stealing one
at a time, and soon became so proficient, that he could steal whole
droves with perfect impunity. He declared that he furnished General
Taylor’s army with most of their horses and mules, and that he could
raise two thousand head, with twelve hours’ notice--sometimes stealing
of the Indians, and at others of the Mexicans. Sometimes he would
associate with the whites, and at others with the natives. He was for
years, chief of the Crow Indians, and still has a wife and family with
them. He led them in numerous battles against the neighboring tribes,
alternately winning and losing. He was engaged in the Texan war, was at
the battle of San Jacinto, and at most of the battles fought by General
Taylor. He was never enrolled in the army, but always fought on his “own
hook,” and ready to chase the party that was defeated. He took a middle
ground, and was always _just in time_ to join the victorious party.

Indians in their wars have their own peculiar signs and marks by which
warriors of the same tribe are informed of the locality of the enemy.
These signs are made on the trees, rocks, earth, &c., &c. A detachment
of a thousand warriors will start in the evening, and after arriving at
a certain point, separate, to scour the country in different directions,
and meet at a concerted point, when the moon is at a certain altitude.
The party arriving first, drops an arrow, with the point in the
direction they have taken; the latter party moving in that direction
soon find their friends. But if the enemy is on the alert, the first
arrow is dropped, and soon another, which is found at right angles with
the first. This is a caution. They move on still farther in the
direction indicated by the first arrow, and if there is danger they find
two arrows, one across the other. They now stop and secrete themselves.
Soon one of the first party approaches them cautiously and informs them
of the position of the enemy. In cases of storm, when the sun is hidden,
they resort to other indications for the point of compass. They find the
moss much thicker on the north side of trees and rocks, than on the
south. They also cut into the trees and find the annual growth much
thicker on the south, than on the north side. Jim’s legs had the
appearance of being bound with cords under the skin, in consequence of
the general rupture of the blood vessels. He says he was taken prisoner
by the Indians, and in making his escape was chased ninety miles,
without stopping for food or rest. The condition of his limbs then
compelled him to stop, and secrete himself, where, in consequence of his
lameness, he was obliged to remain for three weeks subsisting on roots.
Jim, with his other accomplishments, was considered one of the best
“_monte_” dealers in Mexico. On visiting the frontier towns, he would
spend his time in gambling. Sometimes he would win several thousand
dollars in one night, and the next day he would have every man drunk in
town; what he could not spend in drink, he would give to the poor, or to
his friends. Money was an incumbrance to which he would not submit.
After remaining two or three days he mounted his horse and started up
the river, designing, as I supposed, not to return.




Chapter Sixteenth.

     THE MORMONS--THE ATTEMPTED MURDER OF GOV. BOGGS--CANALLING MORMON
     BAR--FALSE THEORIES IN REFERENCE TO GOLD DEPOSITS--INFLUENCE OF
     AMASA LYMAN, “THE PROPHET”--EXCITING SCENE--JIM RETURNS--A MONTE
     BANK “TAPPED”--JIM’S ADVENT AT SACRAMENTO CITY.


My immediate neighbors were mostly Mormons, headed by Amasa Lyman, one
of “the twelve.” The person who shot Gov. Boggs, of Missouri, was also
here, under an assumed name. It will be remembered that at the time of
the Mormon disturbance in Missouri, it was thought by them that Gov.
Boggs connived at their persecution, and several attempts were made upon
his life. Scofield, alias, “Orin Porter,” a reckless, daring fellow,
loaded a pistol and went to his house; it was in the evening; the
Governor was sitting by the light reading a paper. Porter went to the
back window, and aiming at his head, discharged the pistol, the ball
taking effect in the back part of his head. Porter deliberately laid the
pistol on the window-sill, and left. The wound did not prove mortal, and
at the time of which I am writing, Gov. B., and two sons, were in
California. They had heard of Porter’s rendezvous, and were supposed to
be in search of him. He went armed with a brace of revolvers, and one of
duelling pistols; he had a dog that was constantly with him, sleeping
with him at night to give the alarm in case of danger. He declared his
determination to sell his life dearly if attacked. He was much esteemed
by the “_faithful_” for his heroism in the above act, consequently they
kept an eye to his safety, keeping him informed of the whereabouts of
the enemy.

The Mormons held no religious meetings here. They believe in the
inspiration of Smith, or “Joseph,” as they call him, and calculate time
from the date of his death, as an era, speaking of an occurrence, as in
the first, second, or third year of the death of “Joseph.” They believe
the Book of Mormon to be a history of the western, as the Bible is a
history of the eastern continent. Those here were a _good_ set of
fellows, somewhat reckless, fine horsemen, fond of sprees, and an
occasional fight. Many of them had belonged to the “Mormon battalion,”
under the late Gen. Kearney, of whom they spoke in the most enthusiastic
terms. They had all been at “Salt Lake,” and considered that their
country, and home, many of them having left their families there. They
believe all other religions heresy, and quote Scripture to prove, that
the appearance of Smith, and the promulgation of his doctrine, was
predicted long before the Christian era, and that that doctrine must
prevail universally before the coming of the Millenium. They were all
hard workers, and fond of gambling. They had spent ten weeks in
canalling the bar, and the first indications were extremely favorable,
but it was soon necessary to incur additional expense, in order to drain
the deep holes in the bed of the river. The edges of these holes were
rich with gold; in spots the granite being quite yellow, so that the
gold was scraped up with spoons. It was the natural conclusion that the
edges being rich, the bottoms must be more so. The company, that is to
say, Amasa Lyman, (for, being one of the prophets, his word was law,)
resolved to construct a hose of duck to carry off the water as it was
pumped from the holes, consequently sent to town and purchased three
hundred yards of duck, which, using three widths, made the hose one
hundred yards in length, costing $600--the pump costing $50.

We now commenced draining the deepest and consequently the richest hole,
and soon had it in working order; the richness of the margin was, as we
thought, infallible evidence that the bottom must yield abundantly; we
removed a quantity of dirt and stone, and commenced to wash from the
bottom, but, to our surprise, it did not contain a particle of gold;
this, like most of the theories in reference to operations in
California, was not founded on correct principles. The influence of the
stagnant water in the holes seemed to extend to the surface, holding the
passing water in check. The current, as it is bearing the gold down
stream, comes in contact with this dead water, and parts; receiving a
sufficient check to allow the gold to deposit around the margin.
Several experiments were tried without success, and it was soon apparent
that the speculation was to prove disastrous. The operations were
managed without system or discretion. The “_faithful_” having a
majority, had it all their own way; and they managed as seemed best
calculated to victimize the “Gentiles.” As the sequel will show, _they_
were drawn into the same vortex. I had hired a man to work my share, but
the dividends did not pay his wages, and it was apparent that we must
dissolve the company, and each man work or abandon his share as he saw
fit. It was proposed to divide the bar into equal shares, to be drawn by
numbers representing them; the “_faithful_,” however, opposed this mode
of distribution; they were in favor of going on, and each getting all he
could; each to be allowed ten feet in width, wherever he might locate
his machine. They having canalled and worked the bar, knew every foot of
it, and the relative richness of the different parts. The “Gentiles” saw
no alternative but to be victimized, as they must submit to the
majority, and it being Lyman’s motion it was sure to carry. The place of
deliberation was at the tents on the side of the mountain, some distance
from the bar, and as the work had been suspended for several days, many
of the implements had been carried up.

There was an unusual anxiety and excitement on this particular occasion,
and as the vote was about to be taken, first the implements, then the
bar would be scanned, with marked solicitude; the clenched hand and
determined gesture giving token of the fearful struggle that was at
hand. The vote was given; each man “_broke loose_” for the bar as if his
life depended upon the exertion of the moment; some with machines on
their shoulders, others laden with shovels, tin pans, pick-axes, India
rubber boots, and spades, all rushing down, pell-mell, some crossing the
canal on the log, others, finding the log full, would rush in and wade,
or swim across; the implements of some, coming in contact with others,
all would tumble in to meet again at the bottom. Any one who has
witnessed a charge in battle, can form a faint idea of the confusion and
excitement on this occasion. The vanquished, however, instead of being
drenched in blood were drenched in water, and instead of broken bones,
cries of the wounded, the beating of drums, and torn uniforms, we had
broken shovel-handles, curses of miners, the rattling of tin pans, and
torn red flannel shirts. It so happened that the “_faithful_” all rushed
for the same spot, and when their _lions_ were served the _lambs_ found
the balance of the best in the hands of or in the possession of the
“Gentiles.” This occasioned considerable sparring among themselves, and
resulted in the “lambs” selling out for from ten to fifteen dollars,
being their entire summer’s work.

I did not trust my interest at this time, to the supervision of a hired
man, but joined in the foot-race, leaving Prince (the cook) in charge of
the store. I knew nothing about the best points in the bar, but followed
the “Prophet” and his satellites, and when they selected their “leads” I
took the one next above; in this lead I had an opportunity of seeing
rich deposits, although I kept it from the knowledge of the “faithful.”
I would go on the bar at 9 A.M. and work until 12; then from 1 P.M. to
4. On one day I got eleven and a half ounces, and on several days as
high as six ounces. The bed of my lead was rotten granite, which in some
places was entirely covered, being yellow with gold; in some of the
crevices of the rock I would take it out with a spoon, almost entirely
free from dirt. The person having the lead next above me found a piece
in a crevice worth twenty-five dollars, which was thought extremely
large for river gold; it was found in a cavity of its own size and form,
and seemed to have dropped in in a molten state. The final result was a
loss to almost all concerned in the operation; the same result attended
all the canalling operations within my knowledge with one or two
exceptions; such experiments, require such immense expenditures that
they must be extremely productive to remunerate.

Some three weeks after Jim’s departure, as I was sitting in the store,
in the after part of the day, I heard a peculiar whoop, and looking up
the side of the mountain I saw a cloud of dust, and a something flying
in the air that had the appearance of a sail that had broken loose from
its lower yard during a gale; then there were four legs and two other
legs, all of them seemed to be running races; whether on the ground or
in the air it was difficult to tell. I soon came to the conclusion that
it was a trial of speed between Old Gray and Jim; they both arrived
about the same time; Jim a little ahead; as between his poncho and old
Gray’s _latter extremity_ it was about an even race, and _they_ both
_settled down_ quietly, as if glad the race had ended. As Jim drew up to
the door, he dismounted, and throwing on the counter a large
handkerchief filled with gold and silver, said, “Well, by G--d, captain,
I’ve made a raise;” he then untied his handkerchief; there were twenty
or thirty dollars in silver, the balance in gold coin; the former he
insisted upon my accepting, assuring me that it was of not the least
value to him. He had been up the river twenty miles, had fallen in with
a Mormon who had some money, and who proposed that Jim should deal
“monte” and share the profits; in a few nights they had won $13,000; the
half of this was more money than he cared to have by him at any one
time, and was on his way to Sacramento City to spend it. He felt in high
spirits, and as there were two gamblers along in the evening, who wished
to open a “monte bank,” he wished me to allow them to do so, which I
did; they had a capital of a few hundred dollars, and Jim was to try his
luck at betting, which, by-the-way, he understood _as well_ as the other
branch of the game. He watched the run of the cards for some time, then
wished to cut them; soon he made a small bet--it won; he made a larger
bet, and won it also; after making a few successful bets, he “_tapped
the bank_,” and won it; at about midnight he mounted Old Gray for
Sacramento City, with as much money as he could conveniently carry.

The next morning a man came to the store, who saw Jim sleeping under a
tree, his money under his head, his horse tied with a lasso, having
traveled about five miles on his way to town. On his arrival, he looked
upon Sacramento City as his guest, and emptied his handkerchief in
drinking its health. He had all the inhabitants drunk who were disposed
that way, and many of them much against their will. He was quite
successful in getting rid of his money, and one week after his advent,
he had _invested_ his last dollar. He had engaged to pilot the mail
through to Santa Fé, for the government, and the time arrived while he
was _entertaining_ the city. Of course, he could not leave just then,
and when the officer in charge ordered him to start, he declared in the
_strongest_ language, that he considered himself full as good as some
men, and better than others. The result was that he was put in irons.
One day of such confinement would be sufficient to bring him to his
senses, and make him long for his mountain air. I have no doubt that,
ere this, he has seen the mail safely deposited at Santa Fé, and is,
perhaps, again extensively engaged in the mule trade.




Chapter Seventeenth.

     FALSE REPORTS AND THEIR INFLUENCES--DAILY AVERAGE--ABUNDANCE OF
     GOLD--ORIGINAL DEPOSIT--“COYOTAING”--SAILORS--THEIR SUCCESS AND
     NOBLE CHARACTERISTICS--THEATRICAL TENDENCIES--JACK IN THE
     AFTER-PIECE--MINERS ON A “SPREE”--THE WRONG TENT.


There was an almost universal uneasiness felt throughout the mineral
regions. Not a day would pass without arrivals and departures. To-day, a
report would be in circulation that at a particular point on the Juba,
or Feather river, miners were getting one hundred dollars per day. A
party would immediately set out, and to-morrow a party will arrive _from
that particular point_, having heard that at _this_ point, miners had
actually got all they could carry away. They would arrive with a full
supply of provisions, utensils, &c., but being disappointed, there would
be no alternative but to sell out, as their provisions could not be
drawn up the mountain. To-day a man arrives who has prospected
throughout the southern mines without success, and fallen in with a
report that has brought him to this point. Miners who are successful say
nothing about it, but those who are not, are generally fond of making an
_impression_. I have now in my mind’s eye several individuals who were
almost daily visitors at the store, who had always _just_ discovered a
very rich deposit. But strange as it may seem, that deposit never
happened to find its way into the individual’s pocket. Now, a man will
come in, all excitement, having just discovered, in a mountain gorge, a
deposit so rich that gold can be picked up by pounds and half-pounds. He
is out of provisions, and on his way to town to lay in a stock,
preparatory to availing himself of his rich discovery. He talks
incessantly of his prospects, and on his arrival in town imparts the
information to the press. It is published as coming from the individual
himself, and, of course, worthy of credit. It is copied by papers
throughout the world, and universally believed; this individual,
however, in the course of a week, has engaged to drive team by the
month, or if returning to the mines, goes in some other direction, as if
having forgotten his rich discovery. His report, however, sends
thousands to look for the spot, which, I need not say, they do not
succeed in finding. The _precise spot_ is rarely found; people get
within twenty miles of it, but seldom nearer. As if exerting the
influence of the Upas tree, they cannot approach within the prescribed
limit. At the same time, many were engaged in private leads that were
paying well, some averaging an ounce per day, and some even more. At the
mouth of a ravine near, there were ten persons at work, who were
averaging one and a half ounces per day. There were others in the
vicinity doing equally well.

The country had been thoroughly prospected; there was not a bar nor
ravine that did not bear the impress of the pick and shovel. There were
daily discoveries of deposits, sufficiently rich to pay well; still,
such discoveries, in proportion to the number in search of them, were
not one to twenty. All were earning something, and the mass more than
their expenses, still they were not averaging good wages. A man could
place his machine almost anywhere and get two dollars per day; this,
however, barely pays for the provisions consumed, and unless a lead will
pay _at least_ five or six dollars, it is not considered worth working.
A miner finds a lead that pays six dollars, he exhausts it in six, or
say ten days; his expenses are two dollars per day, leaving him, at the
end of ten days, forty dollars. He now spends a week, perhaps more,
before he finds another lead that will pay; his expenses have reduced
the amount in hand to twenty-six dollars. If he goes any considerable
distance, he must hire a mule to carry his provisions, machine, &c.,
which will cost him one ounce ($16) per day; two days exhausts his fund.
There are in California, two hundred thousand inhabitants. Say half this
number are engaged in mining--at five dollars each, it amounts to half a
million daily. Now, according to statistics, this is more, by half, than
is actually produced, and half this amount, or two dollars and a half,
is _about the daily average_, take the mass together.

As I have already remarked, the supply of gold is inexhaustible, and
late discoveries show that the rocks constituting the base of the
mountains are cemented with it. When proper machinery is brought to
bear, and the bowels of the earth opened, discoveries will undoubtedly
be made, that will eclipse the most exaggerated calculation. The
original deposits were, undoubtedly, in the depths of the earth, and all
that has yet been found is that which has been thrown to the surface, by
the convulsions of nature. The form and general appearance of the gold,
together with the appearance of its places of deposit, are conclusive
proofs of this theory. That the country has been convulsed by internal
fires, no one who has visited it, can doubt. Mountains of lava are seen
towering up, and caverns yawning at their base. The natural conclusion
is that many of the original deposits or veins are still undisturbed;
and, in the vicinity of the original deposits of those that have, gold
must exist, and will be discovered to an extent almost beyond
conception.

A system of mining was adopted near the commencement of the rainy
season, which went to show that gold is much more plentifully
distributed, as you near the original deposit. It was called in
California _parlance_, _coyotaing_. It was by digging holes or pits in
the ground, generally into the base of the mountains, sometimes
penetrating to the depth of fifty or one hundred feet, with the opening
just sufficient to admit a man. This mode was found extremely
profitable. Miners now also commenced prospecting among the rocks on
this side of the mountains, and with very fair success.

Among the operators in the mines, there were none, as a class, so
generally successful as sailors. They were numerous, and carried with
them those estimable traits for which they are so universally
celebrated. They were always, both hand and purse, at the disposal of
their neighbors. Nothing afforded them more pleasure than to administer
to the wants of others, always acting upon the principle that what
_they_ had belonged to the world at large, and they were merely the
agents to superintend its distribution. There was a bar in the immediate
vicinity, called “Neptune’s Bar,” worked entirely by sailors, and of the
twenty canalling operations in the vicinity, it was the only successful
one. They were well remunerated, and no one envied their success. They
would occasionally have a day of recreation, when all the neighbors
would expect to drink; in fact, it was looked upon by all as a gala day,
the amusements being of a rare and attractive character. The actors
would generally drink just enough to exhibit their most prominent
traits. Hogan was full of Shakspeare, and Tom of gunpowder; Charley, a
true son of Neptune, would always imagine himself in a gale, and go
aloft on the nearest tree; George would laugh; Bill would sing, and Geen
would cry; Jack was a long, lank boy of nineteen; his eyes, _on such
occasions_, had a peculiar way of closing themselves without his
consent, and generally much against _his_ will. The operation was
somewhat like closing a lady’s work-bag with a draw-string. He would
tell the “yarns,” and it was the only branch of the profession in which
he was _au fait_. Hogan would give us a medley, made up of _gems_ from
“Macbeth,” “Richard III.,” “Much Ado about Nothing,” and the “Merry
Wives of Windsor.” Tom would deploy into line for action, Charley would
fall through the hatch, Jack would sell a magic hat to a Jew, while
Prince, the cook, would be searching his pockets for yeast. On one
occasion Jack was, in theatrical _parlance_, cast, in the after-piece,
and he played his part with _much spirit_. He came to the store drunk,
with a large sack on his shoulder, _en route_ to the dry diggings. We
tried to dissuade him from crossing the river that evening, but he was
determined, and staggered down towards the crossing. We all followed,
Dewey, being furnished with a lasso, to fish him out in case of
accident. Jack was somewhat offended at the interest manifested in him,
and mounted the log with an emphatic oath. He walked steadily until he
had reached the middle of the stream, when, thinking no doubt that it
was time to begin to climb the mountain, he raised his head, lost his
balance, and fell in. The weight of the sack first took him to the
bottom, but he soon rose to the surface, when Dewey threw the lasso,
caught him around the neck, and drew him out. This was somewhat
embarrassing to Jack, but he possessed too much courage, at this
particular time, to give it up, and again mounted the log. This time he
walked much farther, so that there should be no mistake about it, but he
again looked up with the same result as before. The stream was very
rapid, and was fast carrying him down, but Dewey’s unerring lasso took
effect, and he was again drawn up the bank. This way of wearing cravats
Jack was not accustomed to, and it was sometime before he could raise
wind sufficient to carry him from his moorings.

The third attempt was made with better success. He reached the opposite
side, but in stepping off the log, stumbled, and, the bank being steep,
he rolled back to the margin of the river; Dewey again threw the lasso,
and Jack recrossed. This closed the scene; Jack did not come before the
curtain, and, I suspect, that if there had been one near, he would have
got behind it.

Occasionally the miners of that entire region of country would get on a
spree, go to some drinking establishment, all get tight, and have a
merry row. They would keep it up during the day, and at evening some one
perhaps would propose going home. This would be favored by some, but
generally met by a proposition to have another round, which would
invariably carry; then some would be accused of not having treated; he
would acknowledge the soft impeachment, and another round would be
ordered. They would all drink to friends at home in general, then to
some particular personal friend. Some one would propose going to the dry
diggings the next day, prospecting. Well, all in favor of going with
Price, to-morrow, to the dry diggings, will form on this side--opposed,
on the other; opposed are in the minority, and must treat. Some would
get mad and start for their tents, but having, at this particular time,
very vague ideas of localities, instead of going down the river, they
would go up the side of the mountain, and, _vice versa_; others would
start, but by some mysterious movement, the earth would _fly up_ and hit
them in the face. The balance of the party would take the last drink and
start, all wishing to go to the same place, but each, having his own
peculiar ideas, as to the direction.

After wandering about for some time, each would call to the others,
informing them that _he_ was right, and of course when all were right
none were wrong; but in the sequel not one, perhaps, out of the twenty,
would reach his tent during the night. On one occasion, one of the
party, after having taken the last drink, mounted his mule, designing to
go one mile up the river, but, on reaching the mouth of the ravine, the
worthy animal turned down stream. In the course of the night the rider,
as he supposed, reached his tent, and in attempting to dismount, being
somewhat _fatigued_, he fell against the side of it and rolled in at the
bottom; to his surprise he found it occupied by an individual, who,
disliking his abrupt _entrée_, brought his revolver into requisition;
the matter was explained, and our worthy rider found himself in the tent
of a stranger, five miles from his own.


[Illustration:
G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
SUTTER’S MILL,
_COLOMA, the spot where the Gold was first found_.]




Chapter Eighteenth.

     ARRIVALS--PREPARATION FOR THE RAINY SEASON--NEW
     DISCOVERIES--COLOMA--GAMBLERS _versus_ BAYONETS--“HANGTOWN”--PUBLIC
     EXECUTIONS--FASHIONABLE ENTERTAINMENTS--WILD CATTLE--DANGEROUS
     SPORTING--MURDERED INDIANS--THE WRONGS THEY SUFFER.


After the result of the different canalling operations was known, being
about the first of October, there was a general uneasiness felt
throughout the mines, partly owing to the ill-success attending the
above, and in part to a desire to make preparations for the approaching
rainy season, which was expected to set in about the first of November.
People were constantly arriving from San Francisco, having been informed
that this was the “_precise spot_.” The overland emigration was also
arriving, and there was a universal desire to change positions. Those
having productive private leads, were anxious to sell, go into the “dry
diggings,” throw up dirt, and prepare for operating during the rainy
season. Some of the canalled bars were not entirely abandoned, and much
of the stock was in market; but those who purchased it, were in a
similar condition to the man who purchased the bear skin, the worthy
owner of which was running wild in the forest, little suspecting that so
important a part of himself, had been made the subject of a mercantile
contract.

There were frequent reports of rich discoveries in the mountain gorges,
and many of them were found quite productive, inducing the occupants to
throw up temporary habitations to protect them during winter. Those who
wished to retain their claims on the river, would do so by leaving some
utensil to keep possession, and spend a week in prospecting in the
mountains. If successful in finding a productive spot, the pick-axe
would be left in charge. A rich deposit was found in the mountains
about four miles distant, to which the attention of all was directed,
and many threw up temporary huts and made preparation for the
approaching winter. The place immediately assumed the appearance of a
town. Stores were erected and filled, and _monte-banks_ established to
amuse the citizens. This newly discovered dry diggings is twelve miles
from Coloma, the point at which gold was first discovered; the
intervening distance being a succession of mountain gorges, all
containing gold, many of the vales being in the possession of herds of
wild cattle, that have never, until recently, been visited by man.

Coloma is situated on the south fork of the American River, fifty-five
miles from Sacramento City. The valley, though small, is one of the most
beautiful in the State, being about three-fourths of a mile in width,
and walled up on either side by lofty mountains. The saw-mill in the
race of which gold was first discovered, is still standing and in
operation. (See Plate.) The location of the town is extremely pleasant,
being near a bend of the river, and commanding an extended view of the
surrounding country. It was once infested by gamblers, but the miners
took the matter in hand and drove them out at the point of the bayonet.
A gigantic enterprise has been undertaken just below the town, by Mr.
Little, of Maine. There is an abrupt bend in the river, the sweep around
being three miles, and but a half-mile across; this half-mile is being
tunneled to draw the water from the natural channel, which is supposed
to be very rich in gold. A large frame was erected here for a
flouring-mill, at the time the saw-mill was erected; but Mr. Sutter
changing his plans, had it removed to the fort, and after the breaking
out of the gold excitement it was taken to Sacramento City and erected,
making the first hotel, in point of size and accommodations, in town,
called the City Hotel. On the right of the accompanying plate will be
seen a remnant of that persecuted and doomed race, the native California
Indians.

Hangtown, now Placerville, is situated three miles from the south fork
of the American River, twelve miles from Coloma and fifty-five from
Sacramento City. It is a dry diggings, or mountain gorge, and one of the
most productive in the State. The surrounding country is extremely
mountainous, with innumerable gorges, from which gold has been obtained
in great abundance.

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
COLOMA.]

Its first name originated in the execution of two men, a Spaniard and a
Frenchman. They were guilty of murder and robbery, tried before Judge
Lynch, and executed, all within twenty-four hours.

Soon after this, a man or lad, who was known as Irish Dick, had a
difficulty with a person at a gaming table, in the Eldorado, after which
he waylaid and murdered him. This was the second murder of which he had
been guilty, and for this, his own life fell a sacrifice. The miners
took him in charge, tied a rope round his neck, then giving him the
other end, compelled him to climb a tree, go out on one of the limbs,
fasten the end of the rope, and at the drop of a handkerchief, jump off.
He complied with apparent cheerfulness, and died without a struggle.

This is now the first stopping-place for the overland emigration, from
which cause, as well as that of the superior richness of the surrounding
mountain gorges, it has become a place of much importance. At the time
of which I am writing there were several rude houses constituting the
town, all under the supervision of males--females, like the visits of
their illustrious prototypes, being few and far between. I think the
first one had not yet made her appearance.

No nation with less genius than the “universal Yankee,” could have
survived the privation, and even of these it required the genuine
“wooden nutmeg” species, a couple of specimens of which are faintly
portrayed in the accompanying plate. Their garments are of a cut not
_generally_ adopted in the Atlantic cities, yet I can assure the reader
they are eminently fashionable in California. The general appearance of
these individuals is a true index to the order and systematic
arrangement that pervade the interior of their habitation. Nothing is
done for show or ornament; everything bearing the impress of
practicality and economy--one frying-pan, two tin-plates, both slightly
touched with “ile,” to prevent rust, their knives in their pockets and
forks in their _hair_. They are just going in, having finished their
day’s work. They are practical miners, both having made fortunes at the
business. Their house is well known by every one who has traveled
through that region of the country, and many will associate with the
“Yankee House” pleasant recollections, it having been a general resort
and nightly scene of a sociable soirée, or something more brilliant.

There are numerous herds of wild cattle in these mountainous regions,
which have never been hunted or molested by man, until since the
discovery of gold, and even now their wildness and impetuosity render
their capture extremely uncertain and perilous. The mountaineers, who
always carry their lives in their hands and court danger in every form,
are extremely loth to attack a wild bullock, even when well armed and
mounted.

The grizzly bear is a universal terror, and is rarely molested by
experienced hunters, yet their capture is thought less perilous than
that of a wild bullock, for these when wounded become frantic, and
nothing can withstand them. Mr. Lewis, a neighbor who had gained a
notoriety by his success in hunting the grizzly bear, having captured
two in one day, and several others at different times, all through the
fleetness and superior training of his mule, resolved to make an attempt
upon a herd of wild cattle that were in the mountains not far distant.
He considered his mule equal to any emergency, and having a rifle that
plainly spoke for itself, he started on his perilous adventure. He found
the herd feeding in a ravine, and approached very near before they eyed
his mule with suspicion. They seemed quite unconscious of approaching
danger, until one of them, catching the scent of the foe, threw up his
head, gave the peculiar signal, and all were in motion; at this instant
the rifle was discharged, the ball taking effect in the neck of one of
the bullocks, bringing him upon his knees; he immediately recovered, and
wheeling about, bounded with headlong speed in the direction of the
mule. The moment was a critical one, the mule under the sting of the
spur was doing his utmost, the bullock in hot pursuit, his eyes flashing
fire, his tongue hanging from his mouth, the blood streaming from his
nostrils, and he foaming and bellowing with the most terrific fury,
gaining upon his adversaries at every bound. At length, he was upon
them, the rider seeing no other alternative, caught the limb of a tree
letting the mule pass on. The next bound, however, was his last, for the
bullock overtaking him, struck him in the side bringing him to the
ground, and after goring him several times, bounded away in the
direction taken by the herd, and soon disappeared. Upon visiting the
location of the above-described occurrence a few days thereafter, in
passing through a slight gorge, I came upon

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
THE YANKEES HOUSE AT HANG TOWN
_So much lower than their heads they had to crawl in and
    double up like jack knives._]

the bodies of three Indians who had been dead apparently about two
weeks, each bearing the marks of the unerring rifle; they had been among
the whites as their dresses indicated, two of them having on jean
shirts, the other a blue flannel. Two of them were shot through the
chest, the other through the head; the sight was a sad one, and gave
rise to melancholy reflections, for here these poor beings are hunted
and shot down like wild beasts, and these no doubt fell by the hand of
the assassin, not for lucre but to satiate a feeling of revenge.

In an adjoining territory the “red man” had a quiet home; their
“wigwams” were always supplied with venison, their corn-fields ripened
in autumn, their rude traps furnished clothing for the winter, and in
the spring they danced in praise of the “Great Spirit” for causing
flowers to bloom upon the graves of their fathers; but the white
stranger came and took possession of their hunting grounds and streams,
and harvested their corn. They held a council and decided that the Great
Spirit had sent the white stranger, and it would be wrong not to give
him all he wished; they collected their traps, bows, and arrows, and
prepared to fall back in search of new streams and hunting grounds; they
paid the last visit to the graves of their fathers. What were their
feelings? The moon threw a pale, dim light through the foliage, the air
breathed a mournful sigh as they reached the lonely mound; the
stout-hearted warrior drew his blanket to hide his tears as he bowed
down to commune for the last time with the spirits that had so often
blessed him in the chase; his heart was too full, and he fell upon his
face and wept bitterly. But, a last adieu; they rise, cross the arrows
over the grave, and walk mournfully away; the Great Spirit gives them a
new hunting ground, and the corn ripens on the plain, but soon the white
stranger comes and tells them to fall back. They are at the base of the
mountain; there are no hunting grounds beyond; if they go into the
mountain their corn will not ripen, and their “papooses” will starve in
the wigwam; they hold a council and decide to defend their homes against
the encroachments of the white stranger. The whites were strong, and
drove the red man into the mountains, and for the crime of having
_tried_ to defend their homes and offspring, they are placed under a
ban, and hunted down like wild beasts. No matter where they are found
the crime of being a red man is a forfeiture, not only of all right to
property but to life itself.

Will not some philanthropist rise above sectional prejudices, and
undertake the regeneration of this truly noble but down-trodden people?
Had I the wealth of an Astor I would not wish a better or nobler field
for immortality.

The first man I met after my arrival in the interior was an Oregonian on
horseback, armed with a revolving rifle in search of Indians. He had had
a horse stolen, and presumed it was taken by an Indian; he swore he
“would shoot the first red-skin he met,” and I had no reason to doubt
his word; still the chances were ninety-nine out of the hundred, that
the horse was stolen by a white man. I have no doubt the three Indians
above spoken of were wantonly shot while walking peaceably along their
trail.

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
PLACER VILLE,
(_HANG TOWN_).]




Chapter Nineteenth.

     CANALLING OPERATIONS--UNSUCCESSFUL EXPERIMENTS--COFFEE MILLS AND
     GOLD WASHERS--FORMATION OF BARS--GOLD REMOVED FROM THE MOUNTAINS
     DURING THE RAINY SEASON--SNOW ON THE MOUNTAINS, AND ITS
     DISSOLUTION--RISE AND FALL OF THE RIVER--STOCK
     SPECULATIONS--QUICKSILVER MACHINES--SEPARATION OF GOLD AND
     QUICKSILVER--INDIVIDUAL ENTERPRISE--INCENTIVES TO
     EXERTION--EXPENSES.


To give the reader a more definite idea of the success attending mining,
I will detail the result of the different operations in the vicinity of
my place of business, commencing one mile above and extending four
below; this is said to be as rich as the same extent on any river in the
country. The Manhattan Bar was canalled and dammed by the Manhattan Co.,
being a party of New Yorkers, including Gen. Winchester and brother.
After expending a large amount in turning the water from the bed of the
river, they purchased several quicksilver machines at one thousand
dollars each, and immediately put them in motion. It required but few
days to convince them of the failure that must attend the enterprise;
the machines did not collect enough to pay the men who worked them, and
they were immediately abandoned for the common rocker, which, in their
turn, were abandoned together with the entire work.

The next in order was the Vigilance Bar; here a large amount of money
was expended, and almost the entire summer devoted to the construction
of a dam and canal, all of which, proved an entire loss to the parties
concerned; they did not get enough to pay for the provisions consumed
during the construction of the work. In the immediate vicinity of this
was the Union Bar; a still greater amount in money and labor was
expended here, but, as in the case of the Vigilance Co., it proved a
total failure. In these two cases, sixty men had spent the entire summer
in hard labor, and now were obliged to encounter the rainy season, many
of them in debt, and but few with sufficient means to buy a month’s
provisions. In the latter company were several young Philadelphians,
sons of the first men of that city; an adventurous spirit had induced
them to leave their homes, and they were now encountering the
_realities_ of active life. Lacy’s Bar was next in order; there were
many rich private leads in the vicinity of this bar, and it contained
within its bounds many rich deposits. Soon after the completion of the
canal the bar was offered for sale--a _fire_ or _flood_ at St. Louis
making the proprietors’ return to the States imperative. I was unable to
learn whether said fire or flood above-mentioned had actually transpired
or was merely in anticipation, nor am I prepared to name the _precise_
amount of _net profits_ made by the purchasers of the above bar. Next is
the Mormon Bar; the details as well as the result of this enterprise
have been heretofore given. The next is Kentucky Bar; this undertaking
paid to each stockholder seven hundred dollars, which was good wages.
Next was Neptune’s, commonly known as “dead man’s bar,” the body of a
miner having been found upon it; this bar was worked by sailors, and was
the most productive in the country. It was said by those concerned, that
they generally took out one pound ($200) per day to the man. The rainy
season, however, destroyed their works before they had accumulated
fortunes. The next bar was small, and without a name; operations here
were unsuccessful, and soon abandoned.

The next bar I will name Woodworth’s Bar; when I visited it three men
were working a machine made by a Mr. Woodworth, of New York city; its
construction was somewhat on the plan of, and much resembled, a large
sized coffee-mill. For mining purposes the coffee-mill would have been
decidedly preferable. Fortunately for miners but few of the machines
made in the States ever found their way into the mineral regions; this
being the only one I saw during my stay in the country. Immense numbers
were shipped, and arrived in the bay of San Francisco; but, being
pronounced entirely worthless, they were thrown overboard, not worth
even the lighterage. This bar also proved a failure. The next below was
Lehigh Bar; this was canalled, and immediately abandoned as worthless.
Then came Little and Great Horse-Shoe Bars, neither of which paid for
the labor bestowed upon them. Not to mention the small intervening
bars, I will pass on and mention, lastly, Smith’s Bar; this was one of
the most gigantic works undertaken on the river. During its progress the
feelings of those concerned were of the most sanguine character; in
digging the canal they frequently came upon rich deposits, which would
throw all into a phrensy of excitement, and some realized small fortunes
by selling out during the progress of the work: after the completion of
the work machines were put in operation, and all were expecting to reap
golden harvests; some of the machines produced most bountifully, and
others almost nothing. A few days convinced them that, as a party, they
could not make wages, and the result was similar to those mentioned
above.

In all the bars mentioned there were points of extreme richness. The
calculations of those engaged in canalling were based upon a false,
though somewhat plausible theory; the margin being rich, they very
naturally came to the conclusion that the bed of the river must be much
more so. It appears, however, that gold _does not_ settle in the
channel, but is borne along until some abrupt bend in the river checks
the current, when it settles, together with the stone and earth, forming
bars, which have been described in a former chapter. It is understood
that these bars are formed during the rainy season. Torrents rush down
the mountains, and on reaching the stream unite in bearing along the
precious freight. It may seem strange that the current can convey gold
to any considerable distance; it is nevertheless true, and it may seem
less strange to one who has known the river to rise from twenty to
thirty feet in as many hours. In such freshets the _natural_ channel has
no influence, the torrents claiming for their boundaries the mountains
that tower up on either side. What is rain in the moderately elevated
regions, is snow as you advance higher up into the mountains. This
causes a long season of high water. The snow does not dissolve during
the rainy season, the sun being obscured--but at its cessation torrents
rush down the side of the mountains, and, not infrequently, huge masses
of snow, as if impatient of their slow dissolution, will break loose
from their fastenings, and with a terrific sweep dash into the chasm
below. At this season of the year the rise and fall of the rivers are as
uniform as the tides.

As the sun approaches the meridian, streams become swollen, frequently
rising several feet, and fall as it disappears behind the mountains. It
ceases to rain about the first of March, but in consequence of the
immense quantities of snow on the mountains, streams do not resume their
natural channels until the first of July, at which time, deposits made
during the flood are found, as a general thing, above water-mark. One
cause and perhaps the main one, of the almost universal failure of
canalling operations is, that the facilities attained do not
counterbalance the enormous expenditures requisite. Another difficulty
is that a company of thirty men cannot, in the mines, operate with the
same economy of time that they can when working in pairs. As I had lost
on my stock in the Mormon Bar I determined to make it up by buying in
the balance, which I did at from ten to fifteen dollars per share, and
eventually sold it at several hundred per cent. advance to a company
designing to operate upon it with quicksilver machines. Gen. Winchester
& Co. became joint owners, and soon several of the machines were in
successful operation, propelled by water drawn from the canal. The
success of the experiment was placed beyond a doubt. The machines used
were called the “Burk rocker.” They were placed on an inclined plane,
and in the upper riffles, which were of iron, was placed a quantity of
quicksilver. Dirt was thrown in at the upper end of the machines, and as
it was washed through, the rocking motion would bring it in contact with
the quicksilver, which having a strong affinity for the gold, carefully
collects it without including any other substance. After the quicksilver
has taken up, or freighted itself to its utmost capacity, and become a
solid mass, or amalgam, it is taken out and its place supplied.

In separating the gold and quicksilver the amalgam is put into a retort,
to the top of which is screwed a crooked iron tube, the end passing into
a vessel of water. A heat is raised under the retort of six hundred
degrees, which causes the quicksilver to evaporate and pass up into the
tube, when it condenses and passes down into the water. This operation
is performed at a loss of only two and a half per cent. of the
quicksilver. These machines were purchased at a cost of one thousand
dollars each, although in the States they are worth less than forty.
Their

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
WHITE OAK SPRING.]

operation was very successful, and had it not been for the early deluge
would have made fortunes for their owners.

The result attending individual enterprise was similar to that of
canalling, with the exception that in the former case heavy debts were
not contracted, and the individual, if he had not a fortune in his
pocket, felt that what he earned was his own. I had a good opportunity
to learn the daily proceeds of each man’s labor, my scale being at their
service and almost universally used. I could name one hundred
individuals, take them in order as they were operating along the river,
and not more than ten of the number had, at the commencement of the
rainy season, sufficient means to purchase provisions for the winter.
They had labored hard; to-day, opening a lead; to-morrow, getting out an
ounce; and the day after prospecting. They had been all summer just on
the eve of making a rich discovery and a fortune, the prospect was
always bright and cheering, the prize just, almost, within the
grasp--to-morrow--never more distant than to-morrow. The lead is open
to-day, to-morrow the reward, that to-morrow dawned to comparatively
few. It is _still_ about to dawn, and sought with the same enthusiasm.
Could the miners have pocketed all they took from the earth, few,
perhaps, would have had reason to complain, but the attending expenses
were so great that it was almost impossible to live and keep anything in
the purse. They would eat up at night what they had earned during the
day, consequently the proceeds of labor passed immediately into the
hands of those in trade.




Chapter Twentieth.

     COMMOTION IN THE POLITICAL ELEMENTS--CALIFORNIA A STATE--SLAVERY
     PROHIBITED--POLITICAL CAMPAIGN, AND THE RAINY SEASON--SPEECH OF A
     WOULD-BE-GOVERNOR--ENTHUSIASM AND BRANDY--ELECTION
     DISTRICTS--BALLOT-BOXES AND UMBRELLAS--MINERS IN A TRANSITION
     STATE--PREPARATIONS FOR THE RAINY SEASON--PRIMITIVE
     HABITATIONS--TRADE IMPROVING--ADVENT OF THE RAINY SEASON--ITS
     TERRIFIC EFFECTS--RAPID RISE OF THE RIVER--MACHINES
     DESTROYED--ARRIVALS--MY STORE AND BED--A BUSINESS SUIT--DISTRESSING
     GROANS--THE BOTTLE A CONSOLATION--SEVERAL STRANGE SPECIMENS OF
     HUMANITY COOKING BREAKFAST--THE SCURVY--A DEATH.


We now, for the first time, had a commotion in the political elements,
which resulted in erecting California into a State and placing her, the
“bright particular star,” in this glorious constellation. An election
was ordered, and delegates selected to draft a Constitution for the
State. They met at Monterey, and after a few days’ deliberation passed
upon the Constitution which is hereunto annexed, and which was
eventually ratified by an almost unanimous vote of the people. The
greatest unanimity prevailed at the Convention, the deliberations
conducted with the utmost dignity, each seeming desirous to act for the
best interests of the country. The clause prohibiting slavery, or
involuntary servitude, passed by a unanimous vote, although many of the
delegates were interested in slave property in the States. The
nominations were made for State officers, and, although party lines were
not strictly drawn, every preparation was made for a vigorous campaign.

The election was to take place on the 15th day of November, and by the
time the nominees were ready to take the “stump,” the rainy season was
upon us. Just picture to your imagination a would-be-governor, in a
slouched India rubber hat, a _poncho_, and high boots, standing near a
tent on the side of the mountain holding forth to a highly patriotic
audience of six, the rain pouring down in torrents. Nothing could dampen
the ardor of the speaker; he had enlisted in the cause of the dear
people, and nothing could induce him to swerve from the performance of
his duty. The gist of his remarks was as follows:--“Fellow citizens, you
_have rights to protect_. [Hurrah! Three cheers and two drinks of
brandy.] _I’ll spend my last breath in the vindication of those rights._
[Three more!!] The mineral lands ought to be given to the people. [Three
times three!!! Three cheers and six drinks.] _Have not the sovereign
people made this country what it is?_ [Yes! Yes!! and great cheering.]
If I am elected I will use my influence to have this immense tract of
country, now claimed by Sutter, divided among the people.” [Immense
sensation and cheering.] After order was again restored, the speaker was
invited to step out of the puddle of water that had dripped from his
_poncho_, and take something to drink. The meeting was conducted with
_much spirit_, and resulted in securing the votes of a majority present
for the would-be-Governor.

At this time, this district of country, called the Minerva district, had
become so populous that municipal officers had been elected, and now it
was regularly divided into election districts, and arrangements made to
open polls wherever it was deemed necessary. The qualification for an
elector was to be an American citizen. The most prominent candidates for
Governor were Judge Burnett, H. S. Sherwood and Rodman M. Price, of whom
the former was elected. On the day of election the ballots were
deposited in a hat, over which one of the inspectors held an umbrella.

The middle of October finds the miners in a transition state. There has
not a drop of rain fallen during the entire summer, and the earth, six
feet below, is as dry as on the surface; one cannot move without being
enveloped in dust; and vegetation is as crisp as if it had just been
taken from the oven. There has been no haze to shield the earth from the
sun, and at night the stars have twinkled with unwonted brilliancy; but
now the sun has grown dim and pale, and the stars have fled to their
hiding-place. Miners are admonished that it is time to prepare for an
untried winter, and on every hand is evinced a disposition not to be
taken unawares. Here on the side of the mountain is a habitation, three
logs high, covered with canvas, the crevices well “mudded,” all the
light used being admitted through the door. There is a cave, walled and
roofed with rocks, the canvas closing the entrance being the only
indication that it is a tenement. An army tent is also seen, which is
well secured, as if in momentary expectation of the approaching blast;
dirt has been thrown well over the foot, to prevent the winds from
searching out the occupant. In front is a tree, under which is a
camp-kettle and frying-pan, and near are a few dying embers, the smoke
curling up and mingling with the foliage. It seemed hard that one
accustomed to the luxury of a comfortable home, should be doomed to
spend the winter in this forlorn condition. Climbing up the side of the
mountain, are seen mules heavily laden with provisions and mining
utensils, which are destined to some favorite spot in the mountain
gorges. Trade begins to improve, miners are laying in their supplies for
the winter, and merchants find their stocks exhausted, and are driven to
town to replenish. The sun assumes a peculiar color, and where it is
reflected in the water is a “royal” purple. Its rays had become very
dim, and on the 27th of October the deluge burst upon us.

General Winchester and company had just placed their quicksilver
machine, and commenced successful operations on the bar, but one night
destroyed their works, carrying one of their machines, laden with
twenty-five pounds of quicksilver, a distance of three miles, destroying
it, and emptying its valuable contents into the river. The rise of the
river was so rapid that those on the opposite side, when it commenced to
rain, found it impossible to recross six hours after. The scene was most
terrific; the mountain on either side of the river, rose almost
perpendicularly, and the torrents rushed down, undermining huge rocks,
which, after making a few leaps, would come in contact with others of
equal dimensions, when both, with one terrific bound, would dash into
the chasm below.

Mining operations were, for the time, suspended, and miners, many of
whom were destitute of even the protection of a tent, were hovering
about their fires in a most desponding mood; many were entirely
destitute of means, and cooking, perhaps, their last day’s supply. Teams
were constantly arriving with miners fresh from the States, who would
descend the mountain

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS III NASSAU ST. N. Y.
LOOKING DOWN THE BIG CANON.]

with high hopes, having been so fortunate as to fall in with some one
who had directed them to this particular spot. They were generally well
supplied with provisions, and notwithstanding the drenching rain, one
hour after their advent would find them busily engaged with the pan and
pick-axe.

The store I occupied was made by driving stakes into the ground, and
inclosing with common unbleached muslin; the roof flat, covered with the
same material. It had answered a good purpose during the summer, but for
the rainy season, I am not prepared to say it was exactly the thing. I
do not know that the rain fell faster inside than out, but some of my
neighbors insinuated that it did. I could keep tolerably dry by wearing
an India rubber cap, _poncho_, and long boots, with the aid of a good
umbrella, in short, this was my regular business suit. For a bed, I had
a scaffold made of poles, on which I had a hammock stuffed with grass
and straw, using a pair of blankets as covering. In order to keep my bed
dry I had a standard at the head and foot, on which was a pole running
“fore and aft,” serving as a ridge-pole, over which was thrown an India
rubber blanket. On going to bed I would throw up one corner of my India
rubber blanket, holding my umbrella over the opening, and after taking
off my boots, I would crawl in feet first, throw back the rubber to its
place, then tying my umbrella to the head standard I was in bed. My
friends, Fairchild, Tracy, Jones, and Dean were not so fortunate. They
would lay down on the ground in their blankets, and in one hour would be
drenched to the skin; in this condition they were obliged to spend the
balance of the night. Jones (formerly of the Cornucopia, New York) had a
severe cough, his lungs being much affected, and he thought he was fast
declining with the consumption. After becoming drenched and chilled his
cough would set in, which, together with his distressing groans, would
render night hideous, and cast a gloom over the most buoyant spirit. On
rising in the morning, the bottle was our first consolation; it would
elevate our spirits, and drive the chilly sensation from our limbs. A
few large sticks had been thrown together and set on fire, around which
would be seen a dozen strange-looking specimens of humanity, one with a
red flannel shirt, part of a glazed cap, and torn unmentionables;
another with a woolen-blanket, that could boast of having secured, on
the previous night, what rain had fallen in its immediate vicinity;
another with an India rubber _poncho_ and a hat that had been used both
sides out, and, as if to assume a ferocious appearance, it had adopted
the color of the grizzly bear. All hovering around the fire, some with
pieces of pork on the ends of sticks, others with something in a
frying-pan, covered with a tin plate; one is stirring flour and water
together, while his companion is trying to turn the cakes; about every
other one is disposed to go into the fire.

A disease at this time manifested itself, the symptoms of which were of
a peculiar nature. It was called the “land scurvy,” and was caused by a
want of proper vegetable diet. The blood of the system became thick and
turgid, and diminished in quantity; there was but little circulation at
the extremities, or near the surface of the body, the fleshy parts
becoming almost lifeless; the gums became black and not unfrequently the
teeth would fall out, the gums having so entirely wasted away. The
malady became fearfully prevalent, and no remedy could be obtained;
vegetables were not to had, there were none in the country. There had
been a few, a very few, potatoes in the market, at prices varying from
four shillings each to a dollar and a half per pound, but the supply was
too scanty to arrest the disease, and many had become almost entirely
disabled.

On the 28th of October, a man from Illinois fell a victim to this
dreadful malady, and on the 29th, it was our painful duty to bear him to
that lonely hill and consign him to the tomb. A board was placed at his
head, on which was cut his brief epitaph. What a strange commentary upon
the vicissitudes of human life. He was once an infant, fondled and
caressed by an affectionate mother, a youth counseled by a doting
father, and embraced and loved by sisters and brothers. He grew to
manhood, pledged his hand and heart to the one he loved, combatted,
perhaps, with adversity, and finally bade farewell to his own offspring,
to die a stranger in a strange land.




Chapter Twenty-first.

     DANGEROUS NAVIGATION--A TRIP OVER THE FALLS--A NIGHT FROM
     HOME--SAILOR HOSPITALITY--SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS--A HAZARDOUS
     ALTERNATIVE--A WAYWARD BOY--PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING THE
     INTERIOR--DISTRIBUTION OF EFFECTS--OUR TRAVELING SUIT--START FOR
     SAN FRANCISCO--FAREWELL--THREE INDIVIDUALS UNDER A FULL HEAD OF
     STEAM--ARRIVAL AT THE “HALF-WAY TENT”--POOR ACCOMMODATIONS--A
     MORNING WALK AND POOR BREAKFAST--WADING LAGOONS--WILD
     GEESE--ARRIVAL AT THE AMERICAN RIVER--OUR TOILET, AND ENTRY INTO
     SACRAMENTO CITY.


The river had become much swollen, and burst through among the rocks
with the greatest fury. The rumbling of the rocks and stone as they were
hurled from their beds, was incessant and almost deafening. Many of my
friends lived on the opposite side of the river, and I had purchased a
boat for their accommodation. The only place where a boat could be rowed
across with safety, was above a fall occasioned, in part, by a dam. The
water here was extremely rapid, but by heading well up stream, could be
crossed in safety. Tracy generally volunteered to do the ferrying, but
when I was disengaged I would do it myself.

On one occasion, a party of six wished to cross, and I went down with
them, paddled out into the stream, and as the boat came in contact with
the strongest current, it swung around, when one of the passengers
becoming frightened, applied a paddle on the upper side which aimed the
boat for the fall, leaving no alternative but to go over. The fall was
several feet, and below it huge masses of rock; the roaring of the water
was terrific, almost deafening, and it was night. We were swept along
with the velocity of an arrow, and as we came to the brink I discovered
the limbs of a tree, which had floated down and caught. Being in the
stern of the boat, I rose up and as it was about to break over, jumped
and caught to the limb, my companions going over with the boat. My
situation was the most perilous imaginable. I was in the middle of the
stream on the very brink of the precipice, the water up to my shoulders,
and the stones tumbling from beneath my feet; my only support being the
limb, to which I clung as if for life. It required almost superhuman
effort to keep from being swept from my hold by the strength of the
current. After feeling a little more secure, I felt below the surface
and found another limb to which I clung, taking one step in the
direction of the shore; after groping about, I found another and the
last. I had now almost gained the upper side of a rock which rested on
the brink just below the surface of the water. It was a crisis; it was
extremely doubtful whether I could throw myself with sufficient force to
catch the upper side of the rock. If I missed, the chances of life were
against me, as I had no doubt some, if not all of my companions had
already found a watery grave. It was no time for deliberation, and
straining every nerve, I made one desperate struggle and gained the
rock. I still had fifteen feet of the strength of the current to
overcome, but by dexterous movements I succeeded in reaching the shore.

I immediately went in search of my friends; fortunately, we had two
sailors with us, Billy and Charley, before spoken of. The boat ended
over in passing down. Charley and Billy found their way to the shore,
but Mr. Byram was dashed along among the rocks, apparently lifeless.
They rushed in again and succeeded in dragging his body to the shore; we
then hurried on to learn the fate of the others. On reaching the bend of
the river we found the boat drifted against the rock, they clinging to
its sides; they threw the hawser, and we drew the boat to the shore. Mr.
Byram recovered, and we congratulated ourselves upon the auspicious
termination of the adventure. They had been purchasing a quantity of
provisions--flour, sugar, coffee, &c., all of which were “turned over”
to tempt the appetite of the fishes.

Their encampment was a mile above, and as it was impossible to recross
the river here, I went with them, in hopes of being able to ferry over
in a small boat they owned, but on arriving, found it had been carried
away by the freshet. The evening was chilly; I was drenched; I had left
things in an unsafe condition at the store, and as my friends imagined
me drowned, I determined to return and endeavor to recross in my own
boat. On arriving I turned it on the side as far as possible, to relieve
it of the water inside, then tying the hawser to my arm, I stepped on
board. I was carried down with the greatest velocity for some distance,
when I brought up against a rock. I was again in motion, and again sided
against a rock with such force that the water burst over filling my
boat. There was now no alternative but to try to reach the shore, which,
after sundry cold baths, I succeeded in doing.

It was now late, and the night was extremely dark. One mile below were
two sailor friends, and I resolved to reach their encampment. The first
part of the route lay over a rocky promontory, overhanging the river. I
passed over this by clinging to the shrubs and points of rocks.
Occasionally one of the latter would leap from its bed, and with one
terrific bound, disappear in the water below. On gaining the other side,
I found the route easy, and soon gained the point of destination. I
received a welcome from Tom and George (before spoken of) that sailors
only know how to give. Tom cut wood, built a fire against a rock, and I
was soon comfortably incased in a sailor’s suit, mine hanging by the
fire, George, in the meantime, boiling the tea-kettle, frying pork and
toasting bread, and I was soon invited into the tent to partake of their
hospitalities. Tom assisted me in the morning; I reached my tent at
noon. To Tom, George, Charley, and Billy, (the latter has since
died)--may fortune crown their efforts, and friendship always smile!

The mining districts soon became almost destitute of provisions, and the
country impassable in consequence of the immense fall of rain. There was
a reported scarcity of flour, and it rose in one day, at San Francisco,
from $16 to $40 per barrel, and in the mines from 30 cents to $1.50 per
pound. I had laid in a good supply at a low price, but after this was
exhausted the only way in which I could keep a supply, was to buy out
those who were about to return to town. There was an almost universal
desire to leave the mines, and but few remained excepting those who were
from necessity compelled to. Some were preparing to return to the
States; the number, however, was few. We had formed strong attachments,
having participated in so many vicissitudes, and the thought of
separating gave rise to gloomy reflections, particularly to those who
were to remain. The supply of provisions had become so entirely
exhausted, that many had resolved upon the hazardous alternative of
going into the mountains, and wintering on the food procured with their
rifles. At the head of the list was my friend Tracy. Nothing could
induce him to go to town; he had as great an aversion to civilization as
his friend Jim. He had left his home when a boy, and was probably never
heard of by his parents; the connection was entirely severed, and he
looked upon his rifle as his only true friend and reliance.

Having sold out my stock, Mr. Fairchild, Mr. Jones, and myself had
resolved to start on the 17th of November for San Francisco, Mr. F. and
myself destined for home. The only preparation necessary was to
distribute our surplus effects among our friends; at this particular
time it afforded more pleasure to give than to receive. Nothing was
movable, hardly ourselves; the earth had become so thoroughly saturated,
we would either of us have been loth to accept a new suit of clothes,
ragged as we were. We each reserved a pair of pantaloons, a flannel
shirt, glazed cap, and stogy boots. These, in connection with our
blankets, constituted our outfits. Our firearms we found it difficult to
dispose of; they were entirely useless, and our friends accepted them
merely as an act of courtesy. My revolver, I had carried across the
Isthmus, and kept during my stay in California, and when I disposed of
it, it had not had the honor of being charged.

On the morning of the 17th my successor took possession of the store,
and we were preparing to start, the rain pouring down a deluge. Our
friends had all collected to bid us farewell, and to give into our
charge letters to their friends. It was a gloomy morning, and a feeling
of sadness appeared to steal over the minds of those we were about to
leave. Having contracted with a gentleman who was to leave two days
after, to deliver a package for me at Sacramento City, we filled our
bottles with “Monongahela,” and putting a certain quantity where the
effects would be more immediately felt, bade farewell to all, and
started up the mountain. We were soon hailed by Tracy and Dean, who were
not yet reconciled to parting with us, and who accompanied us a mile to
the top of the mountain. We here came to a halt, and took the hands of
our friends for the last time. We were all most sensibly affected, and
although we had become inured to hardships and privations of every
description, we could not, on this occasion, restrain our tears.

It was about 2 P.M. when we resumed our journey, and we had resolved to
walk to the “half-way tent,” twenty-two miles distant. We were obliged
to wade through mud to the tops of our boots, and on one occasion Jones
sunk so deeply into the mud that we were obliged to pry him out. The
first two miles found us much fatigued, and we were obliged to consult
our bottles for relief; the next two found us running under a full head
of steam, our walking beams in the finest working order. There was an
evident disposition to try our relative speed, and the probability is
that we never attained a higher rate than on this particular occasion.
We did not meet any one on the road, but we met a number of trees, and
although entire strangers, we made ourselves as familiar as though we
had been acquainted with them for years; I hope they do not remember
what we said to them. We thought Fairchild made too much lee-way; Jones
had so much freight on deck that he rolled about tremendously; I found
it difficult to keep on an even keel, and was so heavily laden forward,
that it was almost impossible to support the “figure-head.” We all,
however, made good time, considering the depth of water we drew. Sunset
(it did not rise that day) found half our journey performed, and
three-fourths of our _fuel_ consumed; we did not let the engines stop,
but steamed on, the paddles frequently throwing mud into the faces of
the passengers. About 9 P.M., one of the vessels was noticed to careen,
but it righted, and we kept on until half-past ten, when we arrived at
the half-way tent.

If I was ever glad to put into port, it was at this time, and _we_
certainly put in in “stress of weather.” We found the tent full, and
when we called for supper were told that there was nothing to eat,
except a piece of salt beef which was in the barrel. We ordered this
cooked, and made a supper of brandy and beef. We now looked about for a
place to sleep, but were obliged to spread our blankets on the wet
ground. If I ever felt the necessity of a place on the dry dock, it was
at this time; our clothes were wet with rain and perspiration, and now
we were cold and stiff, and the thought of laying down for the night in
the mud, was dreadful. There was no alternative, and we submitted with
the best possible grace.

The “tent” was kept by Mr. Wilkin (or Wilky,) assisted by his amiable
lady. They were from Scotland, having been in the United States about
seven years, most of which time they had lived in their wagon or a tent;
part of the time they had lived on the extreme frontier of Missouri,
after which they crossed over to Salt Lake, then into Oregon, and
finally down to California. They had spent the summer in the mines, and
after the commencement of the rainy season had started for Sacramento
City with a six-mule team. After much toil they reached this point when
two of the mules were “mired,” the others strayed, leaving them no
alternative but to remain for the winter. They constructed temporary
accommodations for travelers, and since my return to New York I met them
at the Irving House, and was happy to learn that they were most
bountifully rewarded for their detention. We rose the next morning, had
our bottles refilled, and, as we had no particular appetite for salt
beef, we resolved to walk ten miles to breakfast. Our motive powers had
rusted during the night, and we found it almost impossible to move, but
our bottle, like quack medicines of the present day, was a universal
panacea; we applied it in this case with success. We were soon making as
good time as on the previous day, but it was soon apparent that Jones
must either bend on “studding-sails,” or fall behind; he chose the
latter alternative, and before 9 o’clock, A.M., he was “hull down.” We
arrived at the “blue tent” at 10, A.M., and ordered breakfast, but we
had the consolation of learning from the worthy host that he had nothing
to eat. This was just what we had had for supper the previous night, and
informed him that we wished something a little better for breakfast. He
had flour, which was full of worms, and _we had warm biscuit for
breakfast_.

We were again under way, and soon came out upon an open plain which
extended to the American River, fifteen miles distant. This plain,
although quite elevated, was covered with “lagoons,” or small lakes, all
swarming with wild geese, ducks and brant. A finer opportunity for a
sportsman could not well be imagined, but to us the lakes afforded but
little amusement;

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
THE PLAINS NEAR SAC CITY
_in the Flowry Season._]

some of them we could go around, others we were compelled to wade
through. The entire plain was dotted with covered wagons that had been
loaded with provisions for the interior, but, in trying to cross, the
teams had “mired” and the wagons been abandoned.

On arriving within sight of the ferry, we came to the margin of a lagoon
that stretched away to the river, leaving us no alternative but to wade;
the practicability of this could only be learned by sounding. This was
not a time for deliberation, and taking my blankets, &c., on my
shoulder, I waded in; after wading to my neck it grew more shallow, and
my companion followed. We reached the ferry boat and were soon on the
opposite bank of the river.

We were now within sight of Sacramento City, and as it was Sunday our
first attention was bestowed upon our toilet. We sat down on the bank of
the river, pulled off our boots, poured the water out of them, wrung out
our socks, and after replacing these we took off our caps, brushed up
our hair, imagined that our moustache curled, (we could not tell, for
the river was too muddy to reflect our faces,) adjusted the skirt of our
flannel, then throwing our chest out, with our head at an angle of about
23°, we stood in for the city, passing in at the head of J. street,
which we found in fine navigable order, the water extending to the
door-sills on either side.




Chapter Twenty-second.

     A DRY SUIT--RESTAURANTS--WAITERS AND CHAMPAGNE--TWO INDIVIDUALS
     “TIGHT”--A $10 DINNER--MONTE-BANKS AND MUD--GAMBLING AND ITS
     RESULTS--GROWTH OF SACRAMENTO CITY--UNPARALLELED PROSPERITY--A
     REVULSION AND ITS CAUSE--THE FLOOD.


Our first want was a dry suit, consequently we were on the _qui vive_
for a clothing establishment; the first store we came to was unfinished,
the front being hung with blue jean. This we pulled aside, and found,
not only clothing, but an old acquaintance. I was soon in my dishabille,
and as soon in full dress. We now feel comfortable; but near by is a
restaurant, where they serve up beef and venison steak, chickens and
turkeys, with coffee, tea, and champagne, &c., &c. Do not be impatient,
dear reader, for only think what we had at our last supper and
breakfast. We soon found ourselves seated at a table at the Empire,
surrounded by three waiters, and I never saw waiters before that bore
such a strong resemblance to guardian angels. I could hardly tell the
difference. One hour after, _we_ were in the same position. _We_ were
refreshed; our waiters were jaded; our champagne bottles were standing
before us, with their mouths wide open; we were sitting down with ours
in the same condition. My companion would look at me and give a knowing
wink. I would wink knowingly at him. Then we would both laugh. We would
fill our glasses and wink and laugh again. We were at this particular
time rich and happy. We had money in our pockets, and felt that
community were largely indebted to us. When we were informed at the bar
that our bills were $10 each, we were surprised at the extreme
moderation of our host.

We now sallied forth into the street, and spent the afternoon and
evening in the most jovial manner, going the rounds of the

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
SACRAMENTO CITY,
_FROM THE FOOT OF J STREET_.]

gambling houses, theatres, &c. The gambling and eating-houses were
thronged, and appeared to be doing all the business of the town.
_Monte-banks_ were even opened under tents, the patrons standing up to
their knees in mud. The Round Tent contained eight tables, each letting
for eight dollars per day. These, together with the profits of the bar,
paid Mr. Weeks, the proprietor, at least $100 per day--a fair income for
a tent, particularly one in which a man needs an umbrella and a pair of
India rubber boots. The rain did not dampen the ardor of the operators,
but caused them to treat more frequently, which gave them more ready
access to their victims.

Here were gray-haired men commingling with boys in the game--profanity
and dissipation--some of them having passed, perhaps, within the last
twenty-four hours, from a competence to penury. A gloom seemed to
pervade the countenance, revealing the reckless despondence that reigned
within.

How truthfully were their feelings portrayed in the gloom of the
surrounding elements. Here were young men, who, a few months previous,
had left their friends and homes with vigorous constitutions, and
characters unblemished, to seek their fortunes in this land of gold. A
few short months had sufficed to accomplish the work of ruin. In an
unguarded moment they were tempted from the path of rectitude; they
visited the gaming-tables and halls of dissipation; and when the brief
dream was over, they awoke and found ruin, like a demon, staring them in
the face. They had neither means nor character, and their constitutions
had been laid waste by the blighting hand of dissipation. Who can
calculate the hours of anguish, or tears of blood that have been wrung
from the hearts of bereaved parents and friends by that blighting curse.

Sacramento had become a large city (see Plate), and, next to San
Francisco, the most important town in the State. It numbered at this
time from twelve to fifteen thousand inhabitants. The town is regularly
laid out, the streets running at right angles, many of which are closely
built upon for the distance of a mile. The margin of the river is bold,
and vessels of the largest class are moored to its banks. Some of them
are used as stores, others as dwelling or boarding places. The steamer
Senator runs up to the bank and puts out a gang-plank, which is all
that is necessary for the accommodation of passengers. The town at the
time was submerged in mud, the streets almost impassable. Flour, pork,
bread, &c., were piled up along the sides of the streets without
protection. There were many surmises as to the probability of the city
being flooded in case of freshet. It was said by the “oldest inhabitant”
that the surrounding country, including the site of the town, had been
flooded, so that canoes had been navigated as far as Sutter’s Fort.
Indications went to confirm his statement. There are gullies running
through the town that have undoubtedly been caused by floods, and in the
sequel, proved channels too small to relieve the city from inundation.

Many kinds of goods had become extremely scarce, and were selling at
exorbitant prices. This was the case with woollen clothing, boots, and
provisions. Common flannel shirts were selling at from $5 to $8 each;
blankets at from $12 to $20 per pair; and ordinary boots from $20 to
$32. Long boots of grained leather were held at, and selling for 6 ozs.
($96.) The interior, or mining regions, were entirely destitute, and
merchants were in town from every point, trying to contract for the
transportation of goods. Teamsters knew the country to be impassable,
and although as high as $50, and even $100 per 100 lbs. was offered for
a distance of fifty miles, no one would make the attempt. The
consequence was, that miners were driven into town in many cases, to
prevent starvation. Trade, during the latter part of the summer, and for
the first one or two weeks of the rainy season, had been remarkably
brisk in Sacramento City. The advance in prices of all the staple
articles had enabled merchants to reap immense profits, and many, within
a few weeks, had made fortunes.

The impetus to trade had come upon them, unawares; some had leased their
stores for short terms; others merely kept possession from day to day;
but when this season of prosperity burst upon them, all were anxious to
secure leases for the longest possible period. Thousands were eager to
embark in trade, offering unparalleled rents--in many cases as high as
$100 per day for a store. Long leases were granted at these exorbitant
rents, and in consequence of the scarcity of tenements, lots were
purchased--the prices predicated upon the above--buildings

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
S^T. LUCAS.
_LOWER CALIFORNIA. (Looking Northwest)_]

erected and immediately occupied. A season of prosperity had been
experienced without a parallel. Men were not confined in their
operations to their legitimate business, but would invest in anything
that presented itself, and everything had been turned to advantage. But
as soon as the rainy season cut off communication with the interior, a
depression was felt, and soon an entire stagnation in all departments of
business. This was not a time when the current of business could be
safely checked; people had been borne to their present positions by one
of the most buoyant seas; and should this pass from beneath them, the
other extreme must as inevitably follow as the ebb follows the flood.
This extreme was soon reached. Men found themselves with heavy stocks on
hand that would not command one-half their cost. City lots that had cost
them thousands, would not now command as many hundreds. Many found it
impossible to pay their enormous rents, even with their gross amount of
sales. A crash was inevitable, and it came; and all were buried beneath
the ruins of their own structures. The elements seemed destined to
complete the devastation, and on the 10th of December the city was
inundated, the deluge running riot through the streets, carrying houses
from their foundations, and causing the inhabitants to flee to the
shipping for safety.




Chapter Twenty-third.

     SAIL FOR SAN FRANCISCO--A FLEET--MUD--PROSPERITY--SHIPS AND
     STOREHOUSES--BUOYANT SEAS--SHOALS IN BUSINESS--REVULSION AND
     FIRE--THEIR CONSEQUENCES--SAIL FOR SANTA BARBARA--THE
     TOWN--DEXTEROUS FEAT BY A GRIZZLY BEAR--FASHIONS--SAIL FOR ST.
     LUCAS--PORPOISES AND SEA FOWLS, THEIR SPORTS--APPROACH THE
     TOWN--PECULIAR SKY--CAVERNS IN THE SEA--CACTUS--BEAUTIFUL SEA
     SHELLS--SAIL FOR ACAPULCO--MAGNIFICENT SCENERY--VOLCANOS AND
     CASCADES--VOLCANOS AT NIGHT--ETERNAL SNOW.


On the 22d November we procured tickets on the steamboat “Senator,” at
$30 each, and at 8 A.M., were under way for San Francisco. We passed
along down at North River speed, arriving at 5 P.M. As we passed through
the bay, we were struck with the vast amount of shipping, numbering no
less than five hundred sail--a fleet which, in tonnage and number of
sail, was never before equalled. (See Plate.) The city had also made
gigantic strides. The sand-hills had been leveled, and the city had, as
it were, in a day, taken the whole of the surrounding country under its
wings. Here, however, as in Sacramento City, the streets were most
bountifully supplied with mud, requiring, in some cases, most dexterous
movements to keep above ground.

Nothing had occurred, up to this time, to check the tide of prosperity,
which had borne the citizens on, to the very acme of their ambition.
Every one in trade had realized fortunes, and were still bountifully
supplied with goods, some having large invoices piled outside for want
of room within. Still all were ambitious to add to their stock, and were
hiring money at ten per cent. a month to invest in provisions, boots,
and winter clothing, all of which were commanding exorbitant prices.
Chilian flour, in two hundred pound sacks, was purchased by the quantity
at $40 per sack, in anticipation of a scarcity; other provisions at
prices predicated upon the above. Rents were extravagantly

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
COAST OF LOWER CALIFORNIA,
_Showing the peculiarity of the Sky._]

high, and real estate commanding unheard-of prices. Many magnificent
buildings had been erected for banking-houses, hotels, and gambling
saloons, all occupied--their tenants reaping daily fortunes; gamblers
seemed to be on the very top wave of prosperity, and they were about the
only class of citizens who confined themselves strictly to their
_legitimate_ business. Their saloons were swarming with people, who
seemed to patronize them for want of other amusement.

The scarcity of facilities for storing goods, had induced parties to
purchase ships, which after cutting away the spars, they would head in
shore, run aground, and scuttle; then connecting them to the shore by
piers, and building a story on the upper deck, they were ready for
occupation, being less exposed in case of fire, and more easy of access,
than buildings on shore. The Niantic and Apollo, ships well known in
this latitude, were thus converted, but have since, together with the
city, been converted into ashes. The water-lots belonging to the city
were sold at auction, and purchased by parties, who immediately
commenced extensive docks, and were soon in a condition to invite
vessels along side. Improvements were commenced, and matured as if by
magic and no cloud was discernible in the business horizon, to dampen
the ardor or cause the business man to look out for a cross sea. No one
was fearful of shoals, as none were laid down in their charts; all
forgetting, that, no matter how buoyant a sea, it always finds a shoal
upon which to break.

Business was transacted on a gigantic scale, and with an indomitable
energy, but with a recklessness unparalleled. It must have been apparent
to every one who looked upon these transactions with an eye of
experience, that the least check to ruling prices must cause a revulsion
that would prostrate the entire commercial interest of the country.
Being entirely dependent upon the Atlantic cities for supplies, the
market was liable to be overstocked at any moment; but business men did
not seem to take this into consideration, but operated as if an embargo
had been laid upon all shipments, and they were about to secure all the
supplies that were ever to reach the shores of California. This was the
foundation upon which business transactions were predicated, and, to
finish the structure, money was hired at from ten to twelve per cent. a
month, and invested. A revulsion was inevitable, and when it came it was
accompanied by a conflagration that devastated the entire city. Business
was paralyzed, and firms that had been thought to be worth millions,
were not only penniless, but with heavy debts hanging upon them from
which there was no prospect of relief. All found themselves overwhelmed
with liabilities, and with a very few exceptions, none could even make a
fractional dividend in favor of their creditors. One of the most
extensive firms in the city, a firm that within two short weeks had
considered themselves worth five millions, now found themselves indebted
to almost that amount, without a dollar in hand, and nothing in prospect
by which they could even expect to make a comfortable living. The
partner who established the firm, became a citizen before the gold
excitement. He was in the prime of life, universally beloved for his
courteous and gentlemanly bearing, and one of those chivalrous spirits
who never turn their backs upon a friend or foe. He was a terror to the
“hounds,” and other organizations of villainy, in San Francisco, and was
the most effectual instrument in organizing the self-constituted police;
this reverse of fortune, however, together with the loss of an
accomplished and beloved wife, so preyed upon his spirits that he made
an attempt upon his own life.

Miners were returning to town by scores, driven in by the scarcity of
provisions, owing to the impassable condition of the country, and
merchants of the interior were driven from their posts by the same
cause. All could not get employment in town, and but few were able to
remain in idleness; the consequence was that many sailed for the
Sandwich and other Pacific islands in search of labor, or in hopes of
finding a less expensive place to spend the winter. Others were
preparing to return home. These causes, together with the arrival of
large consignments of provisions, were soon most sensibly felt. Flour
was offering in the market at $25 per sack; many having heavy stocks on
hand for which they had paid $40, and with money for which they were
then paying ten per cent. a month. Every steamer from the interior, as
well as those clearing from the port, were crowded, and passage tickets
selling at a premium. Every house in town was full; comfortable
accommodations

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
SANTA BARBARA,
_UPPER CALIFORNIA._]

were out of the question. The lodging apartments were generally fitted
up, like state-rooms on a ship, with two berths, i. e. a little pen or
box with two shelves, for each of which shelf, with board, the charge
was $25 per week, occupant permitted to furnish his own bedding.

Dear reader, having a pressing business engagement at San Juan de
Nicaragua, I will presume upon your leisure so far as to ask you to
accompany me. I will give you a free passage, and return with you in
thirty days, claiming your indulgence for the want of interest in the
trip. You undoubtedly remember the excitement attending your advent on
board the steamer, your last trip to sea--mine was similar. At 12
o’clock, M., we had the “heave ahead!” clanking of the cable, firing of
cannon, and at half-past 12 passed through the “Golden Gate.” Now our
steamer makes her obeisance to Neptune, who steps aside to let her pass.
On leaving the outer bay, we put our wheel “hard down,” and stood away
to the south, the coast range, as well as the Sierra Nevada, seeming in
tears at our departure. We steam along, now raising a peak of the
mountain, and now sinking it below the horizon, until the second day,
when we stand in toward shore, and soon arrive in full view of Santa
Barbara, presenting a fertile plain near the coast, with mountains in
the background.

This is the point at which Col. Stevenson’s regiment was disbanded. It
is a small town hardly deserving the name, and has acquired its name and
importance from its mission, the mission-house being a building of great
capacity, containing a collection of valuable paintings. The front makes
some pretensions to architectural beauty, with two towers, each
containing two bells; between the towers; is a representation of the
sun, the disc being the dial of a clock. (See Plate.) There is a
fountain near the church, the water being brought from the mountain in a
trench, and thrown from the mouths of grizzly bears. Why the grizzly
bear was chosen by the worthy “Padre” to do the ornamental part, I was
unable to learn, perhaps owing to feats of dexterity performed by his
_bearship_ on certain occasions.

At the time of the arrival of the California regiment, one of the
_Bruin_ family had taken up his residence on a _rancho_, not far
distant. The natives, wishing to exhibit their dexterity, offered to go
and lasso Bruin, for their amusement. Now, said Bruin had been a quiet
neighbor, and had taken nothing excepting the appurtenances of said
_rancho_, and had a most religious aversion to any additional _ties_
between himself and neighbors. When said neighbors approached and
attempted to present the subject, Bruin, as dignified people will do,
stood up and looked them in the face. Six lassos were simultaneously
thrown. He caught three of them, and, hand over hand, hauled the horses
in, and with one stroke took off from one of them his entire haunch. The
rider’s cut their lassos, and, without bidding his bearship good-day,
took the longest kind of steps toward the mission-house. Bruin is now
supposed to be in his dotage, still he is said to relate this occurrence
to his family circle with the greatest satisfaction.

Those interested in the prevailing fashions, are referred to the
accompanying Plate. Ladies’ hats are dispensed with; a scarf or parasol
is used instead. Gentlemen wear white pants, over which is a pair of
black velvet, open at the sides of the leg, the edges trimmed with
bell-buttons. A short jacket of the same is also worn, trimmed with
bell-buttons over which is thrown a _serapa_ or _poncho_. A heavy
_sombrero_, with a black glazed covering, is worn on the head; this is
trimmed with brass ornaments, and a band with long ties serving as a
streamer. In passing down from Santa Barbara the scenery is fine; a belt
of fertile land stretching along the coast with mountains in the back
ground.

After taking on board several passengers, a few head of cattle, and a
small supply of vegetables, we again weigh anchor and stand out to sea;
the weather is delightful, the sea rolls sluggishly, and our steamer
speeds her way through the waters like a thing of life; now rushing
through a school of porpoises, and now a school of flying-fish are
driven from their element; now a whale throws a column of spray into the
air; the sea-gulls collect around but soon disperse and flit along
“gaily over the sea;” the albatrosses are floating about lazily; while
Mother Carey’s chickens display as much spirit as if the old lady had
just let them from the coop.

As we approached St. Lucas we noticed that peculiarity of the sky for
which the Pacific coast is celebrated. (See Plate.)

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
MISSION HOUSE AT SANTA BARBARA.]

The sun throws a ray of light through, the mottled sky; the sea rolls
sluggishly; porpoises are sporting about, now throwing themselves into
the air, and now rushing into schools of flying-fish which are
frightened from their element and pursued by the albatross. As we
approach still nearer, immense rocks tower up from the margin of the
ocean, some rising to the height of one hundred feet, some being columns
of granite, presenting an appearance as uniform as if cut by the hand of
man. (See Plate.) Here are seen huge rocks with arches worn through at
the base by the action of the sea, sufficiently large to admit large row
boats. The billows come dashing and thundering into these caverns, then
recoil, chafing and foaming with the most terrific fury.

Here the sea rolls high, but with such uniformity that when breaking
upon the shore the air is caught underneath, which bursting through
throws up columns of spray. Three _coyotas_, members of the California
Harmonic Society, are seen on the beach; they appear to be at rehearsal.
Along the shore are huge cacti, growing to the height of thirty feet,
being sufficiently large, and frequently used for building timber.

St. Lucas, like Santa Barbara, is hardly deserving the name of a town,
containing but thirteen houses, which are constructed of adobes and
cactus. The only peculiarity is that the natives speak the English
Language. The surrounding country is extremely barren, producing but
just enough to sustain the inhabitants; vessels touch here for water,
which is superior, and beef, which is obtained back of the mountain.
This town is situated at the outer point of the entrance to the Gulf of
California. The time is probably not far distant when the river Gila
will be navigated by steam, and the fertile plains bordering on its
banks, and those of its tributaries, be brought into subjection to the
plow, when this vast empire must disgorge its unbounded resources
through the Gulf of California, and dispense its agricultural and
mineral wealth to all parts of the civilized world. I say the time is
probably not far distant; it is at hand; it is in the nature of things,
that the Gila country within ten years will be a _State in the Union_.
Then St. Lucas may become a city, and many others of great commercial
importance will spring up along the shore of the Gulf of California,
and at the mouth of the Gila will be one of the marts of the Pacific.

Our next point is Acapulco, distant about six hundred miles; this part
of the route presents some of the finest scenery on the Pacific coast,
and perhaps the most imposing in the world. It is a succession of
volcanos, including Popocatapetl, the most elevated volcano in Mexico;
this towers up through masses of clouds, appearing shrouded in gloom at
its base, but rears its head in majestic triumph, offering its light to
the stars.

Each of these volcanos presents some different features; from the
craters of some the smoke issues with as much regularity as from a
chimney; others are enveloped in smoke; some seem to have almost subdued
the internal fires; the emission of smoke being almost imperceptible.
The most striking phenomenon was exhibited by one of great elevation,
rearing its head above the surrounding mountains, at some distance from
the coast; it would belch forth a cloud of smoke, which for a moment
would seem a huge ball suspended over the crater; this would soon
commence to assume a different form, the lighter parts of the smoke
ascending and expanding, while the more weighty would settle--elongating
the cloud--giving it the appearance of a huge pine tree. This would
float away on the atmosphere, and after an interval of half an hour,
would be followed by its successor. The regularity of these
manifestations was most astonishing; the volcano seemed to have entered
into a contract with the atmosphere to furnish it with a cloud every
half hour.

The mountains, in the background tower up, one above another, until the
last loses itself in the blue of heaven. These seemed undergoing a
constant change; now a cloud throws a deep cavern-like shade here, and
now the sun chases it away, and shows us a vale watered by a mountain
stream and teeming with the choicest plants of nature; now we see in the
distant blue what appears a gigantic marble column; we look through a
glass and it proves a cascade breaking from the crest of a mountain; now
we see a mountain rearing its head into the very clouds, and shrouded in
eternal snow, this reflecting the rays of the sun, appears the dome of
some vast structure. Although volcanos are grand and impressive by day,
nothing

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
S^T. LUCAS.]

will compare with their sublimity at night; their crests are surrounded
by a halo of light, the smoke, illumined, crawls sluggishly out, and now
are seen issuing balls and streams of liquid fire, accompanied by a most
terrific shock, as if the furies were at war within; now a dark cloud
floats sluggishly along, but now it is looking directly into the crater,
and is burnished by the internal fires.




Chapter Twenty-fourth.

     ACAPULCO--THE TREE OF LOVE--BATHING AND FEMALES--A CALIFORNIAN IN A
     TIGHT PLACE--EARTHQUAKES--SAIL FOR REALEJO--VOLCANO VIEJO--ITS
     DEVASTATING ERUPTION--REALEJO AND HARBOR--A CART AND ITS
     PASSENGERS--A WALL-STREET FINANCIER FLEECED--CHINANDEGA--ITS
     BEAUTIFUL ARBORS--BATHING--PREPARING TORTILLOS--LEON--ITS
     MAGNIFICENCE AND DESOLATION--DON PEDRO VACA AND FAMILY.


As we approach Acapulco, the most striking feature is the telegraph,
which is erected on one of the highest peaks of the mountain, and from
which, at the approach of a steamer, a blue flag is displayed, or a
white one at the approach of a sailing vessel. The town is completely
land-locked, there being not the slightest indication of it until
passing around the bluff into the inner bay, when the castle is seen
directly in our course, and passing on, bearing to the left, the town is
seen stretching away up the side of the mountain. The bay has the
appearance of a lake being entirely shut in by mountains. Our steamer
passed on to within fifteen or twenty rods of the town when we dropped
anchor and were immediately boarded by the officer of the port, also by
innumerable men and boys for passengers, and females with fruit.
Passengers are taken into bungoes, or canoes, which are headed in until
the bow strikes the shore, when they take their stand preparatory to a
jump as the sea runs back. (See Plate.) Not unfrequently they are
overtaken by the next sea, which is extremely embarrassing, particularly
if one has just changed his linen. We entered the town at the foot of
the main street; two churches are seen, each supporting a tower, the
custom-house being in the foreground at the left. The buildings are of
one story, constructed of stone or _adobes_, and covered with tile. This
is one of the most beautifully located towns on the Pacific coast. It is
never visited by

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
ACAPULCO.]

blighting winds but is shut in by mountains, watered by mountain
rivulets, and supplied with all the tropical fruits, which grow here
spontaneously, and in the greatest abundance. It reminds one of the
“happy valley” of “Rasselas.” Along the margin of the bay are trees of
peculiar shape called the “amata,” or tree of love, the form of the top
resembling an umbrella, under which hammocks are slung--and people enjoy
their _siestas_. (See Plate). The castle is a work of some strength
mounting several brass pieces of heavy calibre; it is however much
neglected, being garrisoned only by a few barefooted soldiers. Just back
of the town is a stream of the purest water from springs on the mountain
side; this is the bathing place of the inhabitants, and a more inviting
one could not be imagined; the stream is so limpid, and of such a
congenial temperature, that one feels that he could repose in its bosom
forever. In taking a bath it was difficult to rid ourself of the
presence of a half dozen señoritas who would come to the bank, towel in
hand, offering to prepare you for your clothes, for the moderate sum of
sixpence. They were all beautiful, but I preferred seeing them under
other circumstances. This want of modesty, as it will be termed, is a
characteristic of Spanish America, and although it may show a want of
refined delicacy according to the frigid laws of the States, they are
entirely unconscious of impropriety.

The females here are celebrated for their beauty, finely developed
forms, and graceful bearing, as well as for their vivacity and winning
pathos in conversation. They possess many peerless traits of character,
and manifest a devoted attachment to their parents and offspring. The
full dress of a lady consists of a white chemise, a colored skirt
flounced at the bottom, and a scarf which serves alternately as a shawl
and bonnet.

The market is well supplied with every variety of fruit and cakes, and
beef by the yard. The stands are mostly attended by females. The first
salutation upon entering the market-place is from the little girls, who
hail you with, “Say, Americano! lemonade, picayune?” holding up to you a
plate containing a glass of lemonade, as will be seen by the
accompanying Plate. At the left, in the foreground, is seen a Señora
making love to an _hombre_ who looks from underneath his huge
_sombrero_, and seems to hold the tighter, his lemon basket and jug.
Then there is little _Niña_ with her picayune-lemonade, and _Muchacho_
with his hat on his head, inverted, and filled with lemons. He was
requested to stand for this drawing, and looked the very personation of
a corn-field effigy. Then there is _Señora_, the second, standing
demurely, supporting on her head, a basket of shells. Then comes one of
the “immortal garrison;” he supports a high plume and long cigar. There
is something extremely martial in his attitude, although he appears lame
in one foot. Just behind this soldier, is a group of three; the man is a
Californian; he was brought ashore by the boy, but does not seem anxious
to pay his fare. The boy has his hand full of stones, by which he
designs to convince the man that he had better pay. During the parley, a
female runs out, and recognizing the man as having got his dinner of her
without paying for it, she says, “Ah! you thought I wouldn’t know you,
but I do know you.” This was coming too thick for the man, and, giving a
kind of “b’hoy” bend of the knee, he runs both hands into his pockets,
with a “well, I guess if I owe you anything, I can p-a-y.” The range of
buildings at the right are eating and drinking saloons. An officer is
seen galloping across the plaza, with a sentinel at the left. Back of
the town, an opening is cut through the mountain, presenting a very
striking appearance, and is said to have been done by the Spaniards to
give the town a circulation of air. Acapulco contains 3,000 inhabitants,
many of whom are the native Indian race. It is somewhat subject to
earthquakes, there being at present several ruins of buildings,
including one church, that were prostrated a few years since.

In passing down from Acapulco to Realejo, there is a continuation of the
same magnificent scenery, and as you near the harbor, you see towering
up from the Cordilleras, Viejo, the most elevated volcano in Central
America. (See Plate.) It is seen rearing its head above the clouds, and
belching forth a column of smoke. This volcano, for many years, ceased
to burn; but a few years since, the whole of the surrounding country
became agitated; the air was filled for several days, with smoke so
dense and black, that it entirely obscured the sun, rendering it dark as
night. The inhabitants were appalled with terror, some fled the country,
others collected their families and shut themselves up

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
MARKET PLACE, ACAPULCO.]

in their houses, or assembled _en masse_ in the churches; beasts were
seen near the habitations crouching with fear, and wild fowls were heard
shrieking through the air. On the night of the third day, the country
underwent another frightful convulsion, followed by a terrific
explosion, when this volcano vomited forth a deluge of liquid fire,
which swept down its sides, carrying devastation in its track. At this
eruption, so great was the quantity of lava thrown out that part of the
summit, near the crater, was carried away, as will be seen by the
accompanying plate.

Realejo has a fine harbor, being situated on an arm of the ocean. As you
pass in, passing an island at the entrance, you find yourself in a bay
of sufficient capacity to accommodate the navies of the world. Our
steamer passed up three miles to a dock which was being constructed by
Howard and Son, and to which we made fast. This is one of the coal
depots for the line, and preparations were making to construct suitable
buildings. After landing our baggage, we engaged “bungoes” to convey us
to Realejo, three miles distant, and as we passed along up, we found the
margin of the bay low and swampy, and, in some places, as will be seen
at the right, above the dock, forests of mango-trees growing up from the
water. Several rivers put in at the head of the bay, their banks low and
swampy, presenting a very unhealthy appearance.

Realejo is a town of 400 inhabitants. The houses are one story, built of
_adobes_, and covered with tile. There are several churches in ruins,
and one much dilapidated, but still used; the natives are the most
squalid I saw in Central America, and everything is done on that
behind-the-age principle that characterizes Spanish America.

At the left, in the accompanying Plate, will be seen a cart, drawn by
two yoke of oxen, and lashed to their horns are sticks, four feet in
length, which fall against their foreheads, and by which they draw. The
cart-wheels are made by sawing two cuts from a log, and boring holes
through at the heart; a pole is run through, with a linch-pin hole in
each end. A rude frame of reed or cane is put on to keep the wheels from
running together, and as this is covered with raw hides, it serves as a
protection to the passengers in case of rain. When all are ready, the
driver mounts the tongue, with a long pole, prepared to “stir up the
animals;” he gives the inimitable whoop, and they are under way. When he
wants them to bear to the left, he applies the end of the pole to the
right-hand leader, shoves him out, and they come to, and _vice versa_.
On the road there is always in attendance a little boy, whose duty it is
to “grease the wheels.” He is supplied with a quantity of green bark,
and when the wheels creak he applies a piece; it winds around the axle,
and seems to ease the pain. This, to a person accustomed to an easy
carriage, would seem an uncomfortable mode of performing a journey; yet,
dear reader, in this same cart, at this particular time, there is a
gentleman and lady, well-known in New York circles, on their way to
Nicaragua, _en route_ to the United States. They are seated on their
trunks, in a recumbent attitude, with heads uncovered, each drop of the
wheel seeming to _give rise_ to new phrenological developments.

There is a spacious hotel now being built here, and there is a prospect
that the town will become Americanized. We were obliged to take lodgings
at a private house. We lived on chickens, eggs, and _carna_, or beef
dried in strings, and sold by the yard. At night we slung ourselves up
in hammocks, at the mercy of the mosquitos. After a detention of two
days, we succeeded in hiring passage, in carts, for Chinandega. Our
driver was anxious to start at an early hour, and _hitched his oxen to
the cart at_ 2 P.M. We seated ourselves on trunks, inside, and were soon
under way.

Nothing could have been more ludicrous than the appearance of the
passengers, as each had assumed a peculiar attitude. Here sat a lank
doctor of six feet three, his feet hanging out at the fore-end of the
cart, his legs and body being warped up along the side of the covering,
his head sticking out behind. On the other side, seated flat in the
bottom, was a man very nearly as tall, but not half so amiable, who had
somewhat the appearance of a clothes-rack unshipped, and seemed to think
this a suitable occasion for the use of _hard words_. He was under oath
all day, and swore himself to sleep at night. Soon after starting, our
driver, with the greatest precision, brought up against a rock, which
not only caused a great mortality

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
BARACO REALEJO.]

among the hats inside, but broke our axle. Our driver hacked down a
sapling with his matchet, and soon had a new one, and was again under
way.

Our driver was a decided genius in his way, and with a suitable pair of
pantaloons, and a clean shirt, would have done honor to Wall-street. He
would hide his oxen every opportunity, and then throw a native boy in
our way, who would offer to find them for $5. I need not add that the
reward was divided between them. One transaction of this kind we thought
quite sufficient; and in his subsequent financial transactions he was
not so successful, as the sequel will show. His entire wardrobe was a
shirt, which he carried in his hat. Our _muchacho_, who attended to the
wheels, was much less encumbered. We gave him a shirt, which he very
judiciously rolled up and tied around his neck; I say judiciously, for
when he arrived at Chinandega he had a clean shirt to put on.

The country from Realejo to Chinandega, is a continuous mud-hole, and,
together with the intense heat and our wretched conveyance, made our
sufferings intolerable. The distance was but seven miles, still as night
overtook us, and our team gave out, we were obliged to encamp before
reaching the town. In the morning, our driver went out in search of the
team, but soon returned, pronouncing them _unfindable_. This was most
vexatious. We were almost in sight of Chinandega, but with the prospect
of being detained for hours. Our driver was accompanied by a worthy, of
about his own age and personal appearance. We sent our driver out again
in search, but his companion remained. After loitering for half an hour,
he proposed going out in search of the team, thought he could find them
for five dollars; we, as if wishing to drive the best bargain we could,
asked him if he could not find them for less; he came down to four,
three, two, and one dollar, and finally to twenty-five cents. We took
him, tied his hands behind him, then tied him to a tree; we then cut a
half-dozen good sized _saplings_, designing to “put him through a course
of sprouts.” He was almost frantic, and seemed to look upon this as a
crisis in his affairs. We asked him where the oxen were, he said, “just
over the hill;” we asked him if our driver knew it, he said, “Si,
Señor.” We told him to call him, and in a moment he was at hand. He
looked with apparent concern at the situation of his _companion_, and
endeavored to keep beyond the orbit of our _saplings_. We ordered him to
back up to a tree, he fell on his knees and said he would find the team
in “_una momento_,” and in a moment they were at the tongue of our cart;
we now demanded his half of the five dollars already extorted, which he
immediately paid over, and seemed to breathe more freely. We now
released his companion, in part, in order to give him an opportunity to
escape, which we saw he was anxious to do. He improved the golden
moment, for as we were making certain demonstrations with our _saplings_
he made one tremendous leap and disappeared in the chaparrals. We were
soon at Chinandega, and did not forget to deduct the other two dollars
and a half from our freight bill.

Chinandega is a beautiful town, well laid out, the streets running at
right angles, and built upon compactly. In the suburbs, the streets are
walled up, with the fluted cactus, with an occasional opening through
which you enter into ornamented groves and arbors. Nothing can exceed
the beauty and luxury of these retreats. Fruits of the most delicious
flavor grow spontaneously, every vine blooms, and the air laden with
incense, breathes through, whispering gently to the foliage; here are
also innumerable tropical birds, lending their notes and plumage to the
scene. This town is celebrated for its beautiful women, and never did I
look upon such specimens of female grace and loveliness. Their eyes were
dark and lustrous, and their countenances, like their native clime,
always beaming with sunshine. The town numbers several churches and
convents of great extent, one of the former being surmounted by a
spacious dome and spire, (see Plate,) and furnished with an organ and
valuable scriptural paintings. Near the town is a stream and pool, the
favorite bathing-places of the inhabitants. (See Plate.) In the pool are
seen both sexes, the Señoritas displaying their graceful forms, without
the least reserve or sense of impropriety. Water is obtained here for
the use of the town; bathers fill the earthen jars, when the Señoritas
place them upon their heads and walk gracefully away. Here are seen a
party of females preparing corn for “tortillos;” they boil it in water
into which is thrown a handful of ashes; it is then put into a basket
and the hull removed, by getting in with their feet; it is then washed,
dried,

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
CHURCH IN SHINANDAGUA.]

and parched, placed upon a flat stone, and with another stone ground to
a flour.

I engaged a cart to take myself and baggage to Grenada, but after
waiting one day, with no prospect of starting, I purchased a horse, and
engaged passage for my trunk in a cart that was about to start, and was
soon under way. We passed through Chichigalpa, Poselagua, &c., small
towns, and at night, put up at a miserable _rancho_, with the prospect
of a poor supper, and poorer lodgings. We had traveled, during the day,
through a level, densely timbered country, the road having been a
continuous mud-hole, in many places almost impassable; I stretched
myself out on a bench, half my length, and after paying court to
Morpheus for an hour, fell into his arms. The next morning, at ten, we
arrived at Leon, the capital of Nicaragua; we had not breakfasted,
consequently this was our first care, after which we took a survey of
the town.

This is a place of much importance, being the home of the aristocracy
and talent of the country. It is ornamented with public buildings,
churches, and convents which, for extent and magnificence, are not
equalled in the country. The plaza is spacious, and surrounded by public
buildings, elaborately ornamented with stucco, all indicating the work
of a master-hand. My first impressions were of the most pleasing
character, but upon extending my walk, a feeling of sadness insensibly
stole upon me. Here, too, amidst the beauties, I might say the
perfections of nature, here in this almost celestial atmosphere, is
found the impress of those sanguinary revolutions, with which this
doomed country has been laid waste. One half the town is in ruins.
Palaces that were once the scene of regal banquets, are now roofless,
and tenanted only by loathsome reptiles. Here, are figures, representing
Liberty and Peace, now half-buried beneath the ruins, their faces
bearing the marks of the ruthless sabre. The political, like the natural
existence of this country, has always been precarious; her social
elements, like her subterranean caverns, have always been in a state of
agitation; the lava of human passions frequently bursting forth,
devastating, and drenching the country with blood.

The inhabitants of Leon were, as a class, superior to any I had seen in
the country; the men were robust, active, and intelligent, and the
females beautiful. They seemed more nearly allied to the Castilian than
any I had seen in any of the departments of Spanish America. Hospitality
is the predominant characteristic; we frequently found ourselves under
obligations, and owing debts of gratitude I fear it will never be in our
power to cancel. We feel under particular and lasting obligation to Don
Pedro Vaca, and family, for their unsolicited attentions. It was to them
we were indebted for a bountiful repast, which was prepared and served
by the accomplished daughters,

    Whose sympathetic smiles chased fatigue away,
    And changed the night of melancholy into day.

They were beautiful, and unconsciously so. I was at a loss which most to
admire, the graceful forms, finely-chiseled features, lustrous eyes, and
flowing hair, or that soft winning artlessness, which was so
preëminently theirs. There was a daughter-in-law in the family; she was
also beautiful, but her beauty was in strong contrast with that of the
daughters--she having auburn hair, light eyes, and an alabaster
complexion. I here fell in with Capt. B., an “old salt,” who very kindly
received my trunk into the cart with his own.

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
BATHEING AND WASHING CORN,
_AT CHINANDAGA_.]




Chapter Twenty-fifth.

     A PROBLEM IN MATHEMATICS WORKED OUT WITH A CANE--PUEBLO
     NUEVA--CULTIVATING THE ACQUAINTANCE OF A HORSE--LOOKING FOR THE
     RIDER--AN “OLD SALT” STUCK IN THE MUD--UNCOMFORTABLE NIGHT’S
     REST--NAGAROTES--LAKE LEON AND THE SURROUNDING
     VOLCANOS--MATARES--DELIGHTFUL COUNTRY--MANAGUA--DON JOSE MARIA
     RIVAS--NINDAREE--RUINS OF A VOLCANO--A LONG INDIVIDUAL IN SPURS--A
     DILEMMA--ONE OF MY HORSE’S LEGS IN MOTION--A BOY IN A MUSICAL
     MOOD--ENTRY INTO MASSAYA--BLOOMERISM.


After remaining three hours at Leon, we were again in motion; not,
however, without the usual “_poco tiempo_.” Our driver now had half a
dozen “_compañeros_;” and in this country people are slow, in
mathematical progression, or retrogression--what takes one half an hour
to do, takes three six hours. Our captain, however, worked out this
problem with his cane upon the back of one of the drivers, which
produced a very different result. Our team did not get hungry, nor our
drivers fatigued; the latter manifested a particular aversion to the
captain’s system of mathematics. The very sight of his cane would create
a _stampede_ among them.

Our route, during the day, lay through a densely timbered country, the
road muddy, and heat excessive; our team becoming much jaded. We moved
on until 11 P.M., when, finding feed, we encamped for the night; we
found neither a downy pillow nor a musquito net, but were obliged to
drop down in the mud at the mercy of those vile insects. Three hours of
_rest_ sufficed, and at 2 A.M., we were again in motion, and at nine
arrived at Pueblo Nueva. Here we found nothing new, excepting that the
inhabitants wore hats and pantaloons. We had breakfast and were again in
motion, our route, as on the previous day, being through a densely
timbered country, with extremely muddy roads. I had purchased a horse
and equipage, and anticipated a pleasant day’s ride. My horse and myself
were strangers, but I was soon in a fair way of _cultivating_ his
acquaintance. The party had gone on. After arranging my saddle, I
mounted, gave the word, and started, myself, but my horse did not; I
applied my spur gently, but no signs of life; I applied both spurs, with
the same result. I dismounted, examined the saddle, and finding all
right, I again mounted; but with all my arguments I could not induce him
to take the first step. Presuming there was something wrong, I again
dismounted, and went into a critical examination. The saddle was
properly adjusted, he had the usual number of legs, and seemed in good
condition. There was nothing malicious in his eye, nor was he stuck in
the mud. I cut a fair-sized cane and again mounted, but with this
additional argument I could not induce him to move, although it was
accompanied by the most vehement jestures. He would occasionally look me
in the face, and seem to say, “I don’t _exactly_ understand what this
means.” Three natives coming along at this particular juncture, I
induced them to go behind and push; their first effort caused a general
relaxation of the muscular system, and the next moment my horse was on
his back, his eyes rolled up, the very picture of resignation; _I_ was
looking around on the ground for the rider. We stood in momentary
expectation of seeing him breathe his last, but he soon got up and very
deliberately commenced eating; I tried to lead him, but no. As the
natives were going in the same direction, we each cut a long pole and
went behind, soon convincing him that he was a very fair traveler.

I soon overtook the captain, he being on foot, a short distance in the
rear of the party, and informed him of the difficulty I had had with my
horse. He thought it was owing to his reluctance at leaving home, and
proposed to buy a half-interest, and I pay half the expenses of the
cart. Two influences operated upon my mind in coming to a conclusion;
one, that my trunk was already on the cart, the other that I thought one
owner quite insufficient for _such_ a horse. The captain mounted, and I
hurried on to overtake the team. Night soon overtook us, and with it a
terrific thunder storm. It was extremely dark, and we were obliged to
grope about to find our way, the rain pouring down in torrents. We had
distanced the captain, but he soon informed us of his locality by
bawling out lustily for help. We were startled, and hurried back to his
assistance, when we found him

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
HARBOUR OF REALAJO.]

mounted, the only difficulty being that our horse imagined himself stuck
in the mud. The captain had exhausted all the arguments of spurs and
stogy, but could not succeed in dispelling from his mind this strange
hallucination. We cut a couple of _saplings_, and after warping him
“fore and aft,” half a dozen times, he came to the conclusion that there
must be some mistake about it, and moved on. We were destined to
encounter other difficulties, for soon after overtaking our cart the
axle broke, we unloaded, cut a new one, and after a detention of two
hours, were again in motion.

As if to seal our fate for the night, our cart became entangled, and
fastened in a mud-hole; this was a most inauspicious state of things,
and to say that we were vexed is using a tame term. There is always one
alternative, in our case there were two; we could either stand up in the
rain, or lay down in the mud; we chose the former, and as soon as it was
sufficiently light, disentangled our cart, and at nine arrived at
Nagarotes.

We were in a sad plight to make our appearance among bright eyes. We
were in a similar condition to the individual who had not slept any for
three nights--last night, to-night, and to-morrow night, with the
addition, in our case, of having been thoroughly saturated with rain.
Our driver, as if to show his superior wisdom, took his hat from beneath
a rawhide in the cart, and dressed in dry pants and shirt, the first
clothing he had had on since our first acquaintance with him. Nagarotes
is a miserable town; the inhabitants a mixture of Spanish and Indian,
the latter predominating. They are all extremely robust and healthy in
appearance.

After breakfast we moved on, and at 12 M. arrived at Lake Leon. The
appearance of this lake as it opened to our view was peculiarly
striking. It is shut in by lofty mountains, which tower up in
innumerable peaks of volcanic origin, from many of which the smoke curls
gracefully out, commingling with the clouds. From the center of the lake
rises an island of conical form, which towers up as if to look into the
surrounding craters. While our driver was feeding his team we prepared
for a bath. We were, however, much disappointed in the anticipated
pleasure, finding the heat of the water almost insufferable. Our first
sensation was that of pain, and we were soon again in our clothes. This
phenomenon added a peculiar interest; the lake seemed a huge cauldron,
steaming over an invisible furnace, the surrounding craters serving as
flues or chimneys.

We passed along down to Matares, a small town situated on an eminence
overlooking the lake, and inhabited by descendants of the African race.
We breakfasted on chickens, _frijoles_, _tortillos_, eggs, &c., and
after an hour’s detention started for Managua. We passed through a
delightful region of country, the soil, in many places, highly
cultivated, bearing the impress of thrift and industry, I had not before
seen in the country. Fruits grow in abundance, cattle had an unlimited
range, and were the finest I ever saw; the country was broken, the
mountains towering up to the clouds, and some covered with perpetual
snow; but at their base were vales watered by mountain rivulets, and
shaded by groves of orange and fig, seeming a retreat fit for the
angels.

Night overtook us, and we encamped on the bank of the lake; starting
early in the morning we descended a hill, being the immediate bank of
the lake, and at sunrise arrived at Managua, which is situated at the
foot of the lake. We breakfasted with Don Jose Maria Rivas. He was a man
of much intelligence, and seemed to feel a lively interest in the
affairs of the United States, as well as those of his own country. He
alluded to General Taylor’s career, and spoke of his death as a national
calamity. We could not prevail upon him to accept remuneration for our
breakfast, but pressed it upon a member of the family. We hope we may
some day have the honor of serving the worthy Don at our own board.

After a detention of two hours, we were again under way, passing through
a most delightful country, with highly cultivated plantations, watered
by rivulets running from the mountains. We passed along on the margin of
the stream which connects Lake Leon with Lake Nicaragua, running in the
direction of the latter. After a fatiguing day’s march night overtook
us, and our driver very considerately got the cart fast in another
mud-hole. We encamped, and soon had the satisfaction of hearing the
rumbling of distant thunder, and soon were wet to the skin. In the
morning at sunrise we were at Nindaree; soon after leaving this town we
came to what appeared the _ruins_ of

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. of W. G. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
OUR ARRIVAL AT MASAYA.]

a volcano. It had consumed itself to its very base, and the surrounding
country was strewn with lava, which, in color and form, much resembled
blooms or pigs of iron. We moved on, and soon saw indications of the
city of Massaya.

I had two companions who were mounted on donkeys. (See Plate). Our
_long_ friend was obliged to hold up his feet to keep them from dragging
on the ground; he wore spurs, but they were, _at first_, of no use to
him; when he would raise his feet to apply them, they would be so far
_aft_ they would not touch the animal; he, however, with Yankee
ingenuity, put them on just below the knee; this had a perceptible
influence, enabling him to lead the party.

We were disposed to make as favorable an impression upon our _entrée_ as
possible. My other companion had hoisted his umbrella, and got his
donkey well waked up; I had been leading _our_ horse all the morning,
wishing to make my advent on a _fresh_ animal. As we were about to
ascend the hill I mounted; my horse at this moment was seized with a
most voracious appetite. I applied my spurs, which only seemed to give
him a keener relish for the grass. I pulled upon the bridle--it seemed
to open his mouth the wider, but go he would not. My companions had left
me, and even the cart had passed; and now a party of females, laden with
corn for the market, walked leisurely by, not, however, without giving a
mischievous wink at my perplexity. This was too much; I dismounted, cut
a heavy stick, and again mounted. Under the influence of this, he seemed
to devour small brush with the greatest avidity. I must confess I felt
cornered; what to do I did not know. I hailed a native lad who was
passing, and requested him to go behind and push; this the horse seemed
to think derogatory to his _standing_, and raising one of his hoofs, he
struck the lad about _midships_; the precise number of summersets he
turned, I am not prepared to say. He soon gained his feet, and, in a
most musical mood, took the longest kind of steps in the direction of a
_rancho_, where, no doubt, his mother lived.

One of the horse’s legs having got in motion, I applied, most
vigorously, spurs and cudgel, and soon the other three started, and I
was under way at a rapid pace. I soon gained the summit of the hill,
when my horse raised his head, pricked up his ears, and with his
nostrils distended looked a very Bucephalus. Never did I make a more
auspicious entrée into a city than on this occasion; the natives stood
all agog, and even the Bloomer-clad señoras, that had looked upon me
sneeringly but a few moments before, now courtesied with veneration.
_Apropos_ of Bloomerism--this is the prevailing fashion in Central
America; it has become so deeply rooted that it will be difficult to
eradicate it. I would recommend this as a favorable retreat for ladies
of the North who wish to dispense with the long robe.




Chapter Twenty-sixth.

     MASSAYA--THE CARNIVAL--FEMALE LABORS--GOURDS--MAIDENS CONSIGNED TO
     A VOLCANO--A DONKEY “NON EST”--OX _versus_ DONKEY--SAME MEDICINE
     PRESCRIBED--LAKE NICARAGUA--GRENADA--A “PRIEST” IN A CONVENT--“OUR”
     HORSE--A GROUP OF ISLANDS--CROSS THE LAKE--MR. DERBYSHIRE’S
     PLANTATION--BREAKFAST--BULLOCKS STEPPING ON BOARD--SAIL FOR SAN
     CARLOS--MAGNIFICENT SCENE--A HYMN OF THANKS--A MOUNTAIN CITY--GOLD
     MINES--ARRIVAL AT SAN CARLOS--CUSTOM-HOUSE REGULATIONS REPUDIATED.


After breakfast we strolled about to see the town; the location is
commanding, being on the bank of a lake of the same name. The town is
large, well laid out, with an open plaza in the centre, which serves as
a market-place. At this time everything wore a business-like appearance.
Extensive preparations were being made for the carnival, which was to
come off in a few days. Here are many fine buildings, including
churches, monasteries, and convents, all elaborately ornamented, and
decorated with paintings.

This is considered one of the most pleasant towns, if not the most
pleasant, in the country. Yet, strange as it may seem, it is wholly
dependent, for water, upon the lake, the bank of which is a
perpendicular ledge of rocks, one hundred feet in height. Up this
precipice females are toiling, day after day, for life, in the service
of inhuman masters. The water is conveyed in gourds of immense size,
which are held to the back by a strap and netting of grass, the former
passing over the forehead. These gourds grow on trees, and are natives
of the tropics; they grow sufficiently large to contain one and a half
or two gallons, perhaps more.

The surrounding country is a mass of lava, the mountains frequently
towering up, terminating in volcanic peaks, the most prominent being
that of Massaya. This was once the terror of the country, but has now
ceased to burn. It is said that the natives formerly, in order to
appease its rage, were in the habit of consigning their most beautiful
maidens to its terrific bosom. After stopping two hours we were again
under way, _en route_ to Grenada, distant twelve miles.

The country is rolling, and timbered with cedars, our route laying along
a stream emptying into Lake Nicaragua. After traveling six miles we
encamped for the night. In the morning our companion’s donkey was _non
est_; there were three drivers now in the party; four _reals_ was the
first charge for finding said donkey; the proposition being readily
accepted by the owner, they thought it was worth _five_; this being,
accepted, six were demanded, or two _reals_ each for the drivers. Now,
we still had fresh in our minds a certain transaction, the subject of
which was an ox instead of a donkey. After a word of consultation we
came to the conclusion, that notwithstanding the disparity in the length
of ears, the same remedy might prove effectual in both cases. We
immediately acted upon this hypothesis, and prepared a liberal dose of
_saplings_, and in order that the medicine might reach the system
_unadulterated_, we ordered them to take off their shirts. The medicine
proved too strong for their nerves, even before tasting it, and
forgetting the _reals_, they assured us that they would have “_mula aqui
una momento_,” and in five minutes his donkeyship was under the saddle.
It was the donkey belonging to our _long_ friend, and it was shrewdly
suspected that he (the above-named donkey) was in collusion with the
drivers. Whether the accusation was true or false, I am not prepared to
say; I noticed, however, that in the course of the morning his master
administered to him a dose of the same kind of medicine.

At 9 A.M., we were on the banks of Lake Nicaragua, at Grenada. This is a
beautifully located town, with paved streets, and magnificent churches.
A description of one town in Central America describes them all. They
are all built upon the same plan, with spacious plazas in the
centre;--extensive churches and convents, all after a similar order of
architecture, some of them ornamented with a degree of splendor seldom
surpassed, if equalled, on this continent. The streets, when paved, are
paved with cobble-stone, with the gutter in the center. This mode has
its advantages when carriages are seldom used.

We here found an American, Mr. Priest, of Philadelphia, who had just
entered a convent; not, however, with a view to taking the veil, but to
take down the superfluous crosses and ornaments, preparatory to
converting the building into a hotel. The building had attained the
advanced age of two hundred and forty years; it seemed almost sacrilege
to divest it of its ornaments. The natives were accustomed to seeing
priests enter convents, but they looked upon the demonstrations of our
Philadelphia Priest with a suspicious eye.

In Spanish America, a horse that is led through the street is always
considered “up” for sale. We hired a _muchacho_ to lead ours through
Grenada, and soon had several applicants. One, wishing to try him,
mounted, and the horse being thirsty, walked very deliberately down to
the lake, and waded in until the water came up to his sides. After
remaining for a certain length of time, the rider pulled on the reins,
and invited the horse to step ashore; but, no--he was perfectly
satisfied with his situation, and did not wish to change it. He applied
the spurs--the horse appeared to have fallen into a quiet slumber; he
swore in Spanish, but it was of no use. There was no alternative but to
dismount, and wade or swim ashore. He reached the shore in safety, but
did not buy the horse. We offered him to Mr. Priest for six dollars,
including saddle, bridle, and spurs. He offered two, at which price we
“closed him out.”

Our first efforts were directed to hiring conveyance to San Carlos and
San Juan; we applied to Mr. Derbyshire, an English merchant from
Jamaica, and succeeded in hiring a _bungo_ of sufficient capacity to
carry our party of fifteen, including baggage. There were two other
_bungoes_, hired by Americans that were to be our company down; and
after a protracted and vexatious detention of two days, the time of
starting arrived. We now, however, had a new and unexpected difficulty
to encounter, the boatmen refused to go on board; but after a long
parley, a complaint was lodged with the Alcalde, who ordered out a file
of soldiers, they forming in line along the river bank to protect the
agents, while they were _whipping_ the boatmen on board. At length the
oars were plied, and we shot out into the lake, and laid our course for
a group of islands three miles distant, in order to lay in a stock of
plantains for the voyage. This group number one hundred islands, each
having one house and one proprietor. Nothing can excel the beauty and
fertility of this group; tropical fruits grow spontaneously and in the
greatest abundance, and the islands seem to nestle, with feeling
security, in the bosom of this lake, which sleeps in perpetual calm. The
foliage is most luxuriant, interlaced with vines bearing flowers of
every conceivable hue; these flowers generally hang from the vines on
tendrils, and spend their hours fondling with the air, loading its
breath with perfume. The trees grow to the very margin of the lake, and
seem to look admiringly into the mirror at their feet.

Remaining during the night we took an early start, laying our course in
the direction of Mr. Derbyshire’s plantation, which is on the opposite
side of the lake, thirty miles distant. Our mission here, or that of our
boatmen, was to take in cattle for the San Juan market. We arrived early
in the morning of the second day from the islands. Our ambitious boatmen
would work only in the evening and morning; in the middle of the day
they would lay and broil in the sun.

We arrived at an early hour, and commenced preparing breakfast. We had
chickens, and rice, and chocolate on board; we sent to the plantation
for eggs, milk, and bananas, and soon sat down to a breakfast that would
have pleased the most fastidious palate. The manner in which it was
served I am not prepared to say was quite so satisfactory. (See Plate.)
One was sitting on a rock, drinking his coffee from a tin basin; another
standing up, doing likewise; a third holding a chicken by a leg and
wing, trying to dissect it without the use of edged tools. One of our
party has finished his breakfast, and is sitting on a rock, in a very
aldermanic attitude, smoking a pipe, probably the only one ever
introduced into Central America.

While we were taking breakfast, the natives were taking in a cargo of
bullocks; the manner was truly Spanish. The bungoes were anchored a
short distance from shore, the cattle were driven as near as convenient,
when one of them would be _lassoed_, the other end of the lasso being
fastened to the horse’s neck; the horse is mounted and spurred into the
lake, drawing the victim after him, which, in case of resistance, is
unmercifully beaten. The horse tows him around on the seaward side of
the

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
BREAKFASTING ON SHORE,
_NICARAGUA LAKE_.]

_bungo_, when the lasso is slipped and the bullock beaten and _booted_
until he jumps on board. Two passengers of this class will be seen
cozily chewing their cuds in the midships of the two _bungoes_ in the
foreground, and one is just _stepping on board_ that on the right. In
the background is seen a party of natives, cooking and eating breakfast.
They put rice and plantains together into an iron pot, and stew them
into a chowder which is served out in small gourds. After spending an
hour on shore, there was a simultaneous move to go on board; the
inexpressibles of some were rolled up, others pulled off. Before
starting we saw one native moving towards the _bungo_, and one only; he
was dressed in nature’s garments, with a palm-leaf hat in his hand, and
a bunch of stolen bananas on his shoulder. On arriving at the side of
our bungo, we found the best apartments occupied by his bullockship, to
which we immediately protested, as contrary to the rules of polite
society; not that we wished to limit any one of the passengers in the
number of legs used, but then his head-dress was “positively shocking,”
and might put us to great inconvenience in a case of emergency. Our
first impulse was to show him the depth of water on our larboard
quarter, but then he seemed quiet, and as he was engaged to appear at
the table of nobility at San Juan, we resolved to submit to the
inconvenience, and let him ride. We soon slipped our cables, and were
under way in the direction of San Carlos. Nothing can exceed the
magnificence and beauty of the scene that now surrounds us. Mountains
are climbing one above the other, until the last is lost in the clouds;
the lake is studded with islands, some reposing modestly in her bosom,
others rearing their heads as if trying to vie with the surrounding
mountains. Now night throws her sable mantle over the scene, and all is
hushed as death; the surrounding volcanos light their watch fires, and
loom up in the most terrific grandeur. In the morning our boatmen rose
up from their seats, and, in a wild strain, chanted a hymn of praise to
God for protection to themselves and “los Americanos.”

In the course of the morning we passed in sight of a town, which was
situated on the side of the mountain, at a great elevation, presenting a
most picturesque appearance. We also saw miners at work in the gold
mines, on the side of the mountain. As we drew near San Carlos, we saw
several volcanos rising, in pyramidal form, from the bosom of the lake;
one, that of Omotepeque, towering up to the height of six thousand feet.
(See Plate.)

On our arrival at San Carlos we were required to submit to custom-house
regulations, the officer insisting upon searching our trunks. To this we
demurred, having passed through the entire country without submitting to
such an ordeal. The officer seeming anxious to compromise the matter,
demanded $5 in stead from each; the Americans who had preceded us
submitted to this extortion, but we were determined to resist. The
officer became more moderate, coming down--down--down--to a _real_; upon
our refusing to pay this, he made a move in the direction of the cannon
which was near; we, however, were first to possess it, and things for
the moment wore a warlike appearance. The officer, not wishing to bring
things to a crisis, held a consultation with our “Padrone,” and came to
the conclusion that all was right, that as we were Americans he would
treat us with due consideration. At the left, in the Plate, is seen the
residence of this worthy officer, behind which is the village of San
Carlos.

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
SAN CARLOS NICARAGUA LAKE]




Chapter Twenty-seventh.

     PASSAGE DOWN THE SAN JUAN RIVER--CASTILIAN RAPIDS--THE
     “DIRECTOR”--ARRIVAL AT SAN JUAN--BOARDED BY A POSSE OF
     NEGROES--BRITISH PROTECTORATE--PHILANTHROPY OF GREAT BRITAIN--HER
     MAGNANIMOUS AND DISINTERESTED CONDUCT TOWARDS THE NATIONS OF THE
     EARTH--NICARAGUA GRACIOUSLY REMEMBERED--A HUNT FOR A SOVEREIGN--A
     FULL-GROWN KING DISCOVERED--HIS
     DIPLOMACY--INVINCIBILITY--AMUSEMENTS AND CORONATION--HIS FIRST PAIR
     OF PANTALOONS--HAIL “KING OF THE MUSQUITO COAST”!!!--ALL HAIL
     JAMACA I.!!!--“HEAR! HEAR!!!”


We were soon on board, and passing around a point, were floating down
the San Juan river at the rate of five knots. After a two hour’s run our
boatmen unshipped their oars, and commenced gambling; we were borne
along by the current, at the rate of two miles an hour, until toward
evening, when the oars were again manned. At nine in the evening, the
roar of the water admonished us that we were approaching the Castilian
rapids, and we came to anchor. The natives have a dread of this rapid,
and in passing it feel that their lives are in imminent peril; in this
case, however, a party of boatmen forgetting themselves in sleep, passed
over, and in the morning found themselves entangled in the bushes, along
the margin of the river. We descended the rapid, finding the steamboat
“Director,” in the act of ascending; she was making her first passage
up, preparatory to taking her place on the lake for the transportation
of passengers, in connection with Vanderbilt’s Line of steamships. The
passage up the rapid was very difficult, owing to the strong current,
being about six knots; she however succeeded, and is now plying on the
lake. We passed down, and at two the next morning came to anchor in the
harbor of San Juan.

At an early hour in the morning we were boarded by a posse of negroes,
whose mission it was to search our baggage for firearms; they succeeded
in finding two rusty guns belonging to our padrone, which they carried
off in triumph. It is well known that this harbor is under the
protectorate of Great Britain, and our worthy visitors were subjects of
Her Majesty, as well as of His Majesty of the “Mosquito Coast.” They
seem in fear of an army from Grenada, hence this precaution.

The town consists of about fifty thatched houses, tenanted by French,
English, German, Spanish, and Negroes. Things here are, in a measure,
_reverso_; a negro is agent for Great Britain--his boots are blacked by
a white man. We found a British man-of-war in port, which is kept here
to enforce their _wholesome regulations_.

The philanthropy of Great Britain has become proverbial. There is
scarcely a port on the European continent that has not heard the music
of her cannon, and been relieved of its surplus treasures. Three-fourths
of a century ago, she _succeeded_ in establishing, on the American
continent, the government of the United States, and a few years
thereafter voluntarily offered the use of a fleet and army at New
Orleans, a part of which was _used_, the balance returned. Mexico has
also been a recipient of her kind attentions. She has taken possession
of the richest mines in Mexico, and worked them _gratuitously_, sending
off millions under the protection of the “red cross of St. George.” Her
sappers and miners have found their way to Peru and Chili, as well as
other divisions on the Pacific coast of South America, the mines of all
of which have been taken possession of, and worked on the same
_accommodating_ terms as those of Mexico. She sent a fleet _free of
charge_ to the Argentine Republic, took possession of her ports, and
_forced_ the navigation of her rivers. Texas, after emerging from her
glorious struggle for liberty, was offered the kind wing of protection;
Great Britain even going so far as to offer her assistance in
maintaining a separate republic, thinking annexation to the United
States inexpedient. She visited China in the capacity of doctor, and
most magnanimously forced her prescription down their unwilling throats.
Her philanthropic eye next took a survey of Central America. Here she
found governments of that _odious_ form called republican, that of
Nicaragua having an extent of sea coast, with accessible ports, and
numerous rivers.

No one, up to this time, had interfered with the jurisdiction

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
SAN JUAN DE NICARAGUA.]

of Nicaragua, nor was her claim to this coast ever disputed. Great
Britain, in her superior wisdom, however, decided that as Nicaragua had
no particular use for seaports, they would be better in other hands,
even if _she herself_ should be _compelled_ to assume the protectorate.
The first step necessary to accomplish this magnanimous object was to
find a suitable _sovereign_. She is supposed to have embarked in the
search with her characteristic zeal and energy; it is presumed that the
first inquiries were made at San Juan. At first the prospect of success
was not flattering, but fortunately inquiries were made of a native
Indian, who very innocently informed Her Britannic Majesty’s agent that
his chief was sojourning along the “Mosquito Coast.”

What could have been more opportune? This was precisely the individual
sought; here was a great man, a chief, in actual possession of the
country, i. e., he had actually hunted ’possums there for a period of
six months! The matter was immediately decided upon, and arrangements
made to pay the monarch a visit on the following day, preparatory to his
coronation. Artizans were employed in the manufacture of presents
suitable for one who seemed pointed out by the finger of Providence to
wear the “purple and ermine.” Tin pans were immediately transformed into
crowns and collars, sardine boxes into breast-plates and stars,
pill-boxes into ear and finger-rings, and “extinguishers” into ornaments
for the nose. These, after a revision by chamois and soap-stone, were
safely boxed, that they might not be tarnished by the touch of vulgar
hands. A demijohn was filled with rum--as was supposed, to prevent his
_Majesty_ from fainting under the operation of putting on _his first
pair_ of pantaloons.

Early on the following morning, the ship having been ordered to drop
along down the coast, the party were in motion under the pilotage of the
Indian above mentioned. What momentous results sometimes attend the acts
of individuals in the humble walks of life! This poor Indian, having
been driven to the shore by hunger, had, while making a meal of raw
fish, imparted a word, which single word was the means of bringing forth
to the world a full-grown king. What were the feelings of this native,
as he cut his way through the chaparrals? Had he aspirations? No doubt
he had! In his wild delirium of pleasure, he, no doubt, dreamed of a
canoe of his own, and a raw hide to sleep on; instead of going naked, as
he had done all his life, he might have a red bandana to tie around his
neck; he thought of abundance of broiled lizard, with plantain cooked in
’possum fat for dessert. With such bright visions in the future, it is
not astonishing that, in wading swamps and cutting through chaparrals,
he distanced those under his pilotage.

Nor was there a want of zeal on the part of Her Britannic Majesty’s
agent. He too had aspirations. He was on a mission which, if successful,
must result in incalculable benefit to the world in general, and to Her
Britannic Majesty’s government _in particular_. If successful,
knighthood was the least he could expect, with the prospect of a niche,
eventually, in Westminster Abbey.

Never were mortals more eager for immortality, nor was it ever more
clearly within their reach; for even now, at this point in the drama,
the very dogs of his _Majesty_ seemed to proclaim it--the _royal_
encampment was in sight. The party deployed into a single file, and
prepared to approach _the presence_. They took the _monarch_ by
surprise; he was stretched out at full length, on a “highly-scented” raw
hide, under the shade of a palm-tree, as naked as he came into the
world. He was amusing himself by trying to “get up” a fight between a
parrot and a young monkey; his squaw was broiling a couple of lizards or
_guanas_, and roasting plantains for dinner.

The interview was at first embarrassing, but after consulting the
demijohn, they seemed imbued with a more fraternizing _spirit_, and
commenced conversation on the subject of empire, and the prerogative of
kings. Her Britannic Majesty’s agent felt himself a man of importance,
and at first seemed somewhat patronizing; but the _monarch_ had
consulted the demijohn too often to be outdone, and, as a proof of his
invincibility, he exhibited a huge turtle, which had fallen a victim to
his _machet_; he had climbed a tree that none of his men could climb,
and caught sixteen “’possums,” all hanging by the same tail from the
same limb; he had taken his biggest dog by the tail, and swung him
around his head three times, and declared he would do it again for their
amusement. “Carlo” was immediately seized by the tail, but feeling a
little sensitive, he curled up, bit

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
THE HARBOUR AT SAN JUAN,
_NICARAGUA_.]

his master, and escaped. This led to a spirited foot-race, and as
“Carlo” dodged, the _monarch_ slipped, his head coming in contact with
the root of a tree. He seemed _discouraged_, and made no effort to
regain his feet. The Englishman felt that he had committed a _faux pas_
in allowing him free access to the demijohn, and resolved to defer
negotiations until the following day. He immediately repaired to the
shore, and hoisted a signal for the ship’s boat.

On the following morning, the boat was again sent ashore, with an
invitation for the _monarch_ to visit Her Majesty’s ship. Feeling as
individuals will feel _next day_, he _graciously_ accepted the
invitation. A detail of what transpired on board has never been made
public, _reporters_ having been excluded. In the afterpart of the day an
unusual demonstration was made, flags were displayed, cannon fired, and
as the band struck up “Hail to the Chief,” an individual was seen
descending the side of the ship, with a tin crown on his head, and a
pair of red flannel pantaloons under his arm. On reaching the boat he
took his position astride a barrel of rum, and moved toward the shore in
triumph, having been crowned “King of the Mosquito Coast.” All hail,
Jamaca I.!!! It is well known that Great Britain immediately recognized
the government, and assumed the protectorate; hence the presence of the
“red cross” at San Juan.

The distance from San Juan to Realejo is about three hundred miles.
Passengers going the Nicaragua route now take a steamboat at San Juan,
which runs up to the Castilian Rapids; then, after a portage of half a
mile, another steamboat takes them up the river to San Carlos; thence
across Lake Nicaragua to Virgin Bay. Then by pack-mules they are taken
to San Juan del Sud, on the Pacific. The distances on the river and lake
are about equal, being about seventy-five miles each, and from twelve to
fifteen miles by land. There is every facility for crossing here, there
being several steamboats plying on the river and lake. Steamships enter
the mouth of the San Juan River, and the river boats come along side,
consequently passengers incur no expense in the transfer, and are not
obliged to land, as the small steamboats take them immediately up the
river. This route has the advantage, in distance, over the Panama route,
of about one thousand miles; still, the passage from San Francisco to
New York has, as yet, been accomplished in the shortest time by way of
Panama.

Now, dear reader, having finished my business here, I am ready to
return. I will not trouble you to make the journey back to Realejo in a
cart, but as I promised to accompany you, we will take one
_psychological_ leap, and salute our national flag in the main plaza of
San Francisco.

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
CASTLE AT ACAPULCO.]




Chapter Twenty-eighth.

     SAIL FOR HOME--PASS THE “GOLDEN GATE,”--SAD CONDITION OF THE
     PASSENGERS--GRAVES AT THE BASE OF THE SNOWY MOUNTAINS--LAND
     RECEDES--LUXURIES ON BOARD--A DEATH AND BURIAL--ANOTHER
     DEATH--WHALES AND PORPOISES _versus_ SERPENTS OF FIRE--THUNDER
     STORM--DEATH OF DOCTOR REED--THREE DEAD BODIES FOUND ON BOARD--THE
     SCURVY--FIVE OF THE PASSENGERS INSANE--EVILS OF THE CREDIT
     SYSTEM--A CULTIVATED MIND DERANGED--MEMORY LOST--ITS CAUSE--THE
     VICTIM UPON THE VERGE OF DEATH--HARPOONING PORPOISES--EXCITING
     SPORT.


I had designed to leave San Francisco for home in the steamer of the 1st
December, and had purchased my ticket with that view; but the steamer,
being a foreign bottom, was unable to clear for another port in
California, and having but small capacity for coal, I feared detention,
and was induced to sell my ticket, and take passage in the ship Edward
Everett, which was to sail on the 28th November, and which, I felt
confident, would reach Panama in advance of the steamer. We were
notified to be on board at 9 A.M.; and when Mr. Fairchild and myself
reached the shore with our baggage, we saw the ship two miles out just
preparing to swing from her moorings. We engaged two hardy “tars,” and
were soon pulling off for her; we threaded our way through the shipping,
and were doing our utmost as we saw the anchor of the Everett already
up, her foresail aback, and she “turning on her heel,” preparatory to
standing out to sea. We boarded her as she was under way. We passed the
clippership Architect, which was just weighing anchor for Valparaiso;
the captains saluted each other through their trumpets, and we passed on
through the Golden Gate, with a fair breeze, assisted by the unerring
ebb tide. The passengers, eighty in number, were all on deck to take a
last look at the receding landscape.

It had been but a few short days since they first beheld this
scene--since they first entered through this “Gate,” into the land of
promise. They now look upon the same narrow passage, the same bold
rocky coast, they had looked for with so much anxiety, and greeted with
so much enthusiasm. But how different the feelings now! what a change!
They were then accompanied by a brother or a friend, with high hopes and
vigorous constitutions, looking forward with brilliant anticipations.
But now the brother and friend are sleeping quietly at the base of
yonder snow-capped mountain, and they are bearing the sad intelligence
to the bereaved parents, brothers, and sisters. Instead of the vigorous
constitutions, they are obliged to cling to the rigging for support,
while they gaze for the last time upon the scene. With many it is the
last time they are to view such a scene; their eyes are about to close
upon the earth forever, to sleep beneath the bosom of the ocean. Many
have not only sacrificed health, but are destitute of means, and are now
reeling about the ship, endeavoring to earn their passage by their
labor. Our ship seemed a hospital; three-fourths of all the passengers
were invalids, some of them helpless. We drifted away before the wind,
the mountains gradually disappearing from the horizon; one had lingered
long, but as we descended from the crest of a mountain wave, we bid _it_
also, a last farewell. We spent the afternoon in adjusting our baggage,
and the night in sleep; the morning dawned brightly--we were still under
a full press of canvas, with a fair wind. All on board had taken passage
under the impression that the accommodations were superior, for which
they had paid extra. We consequently felt that we were well provided
for, and fairly embarked on our voyage home. As usual the first day at
sea, but little attention was paid to the cook, the passengers remaining
cozily ensconced in their berths.

The 30th was ushered in with a fine breeze, and we were standing on our
course. At noon we found the table supplied with hard bread
(sea-biscuit) and salt beef, dainties that our stomachs did not relish;
the same table was kept standing for supper. Captain Smith was
interrogated in reference to his supply of provisions, for which we had
paid him extra; he replied that he was abundantly supplied with the
above, which, if we chose, we could have served up every day during the
voyage; when too late, we learned that the delicacies for the sick, with
which he had by public notice proclaimed his ship abundantly supplied,
were “_non est_.” He had not even a pound of fruit on board; the
invalids felt this privation most sensibly many of whom had come on
board without supplies, having been led to believe by advertisements,
that the ship had been furnished with a direct view to the comforts of
those returning in ill-health. From the fare with which our table was
supplied, it was impossible for a weak stomach to extract sufficient
nutriment to sustain life. This was soon manifest, as those who were
destitute immediately commenced to decline, and were soon confined to
their berths. We could plainly see that the lives of some were fast
ebbing away.

On the 6th December, in lat,. 22° 50´, North, it was announced that G.
W. Ray, of Maine, was dead. He died at 10 A.M.; the gang-plank was
placed, one end extending over the side of the ship, supported by the
rail, the other supported by a cask, over this was thrown a piece of
canvas, upon which was placed the corpse. A rope was tied around the
body; thence, passing down was tied around the ancles, and to the end
was attached a canvas bag, filled with sand. The body was then sewed up
in the canvas, over which was thrown the ensign of California. The
passengers now surround the corpse, with heads uncovered. A prayer is
read by the captain, the ensign is removed, and at the word one end of
the plank is raised, and the body passes gently into its grave. We are
under a full press of canvas with an eight knot breeze; the last bubble
rises to the surface, and the wind passes mournfully through the
shrouds, as if sighing his last requiem.

At 8 P.M., of the same day, another death was announced. Deceased, Mr.
Cook, was a young man from Sag Harbor, where he left a wife and child.
One hour after the announcement of his death, he was consigned to the
grave, that had so recently opened to receive his unfortunate companion.
He was buried in Lat. 20° 50´, N.

We were surrounded during the day (7th) by whales and porpoises, and
during the evening, as they would pass through the “luminous
animalculæ,” they would present the appearance of enormous serpents of
fire. On the 8th we were visited by a terrific thunder storm,
accompanied by heavy winds. We run under close-reefed topsails; and when
the storm clears up we find the wind dead ahead, and are obliged to run
several days sharp on the wind.

On the morning of the 14th another death was announced; the deceased,
Dr. Reed, of Massachusetts, had been, for some days, conscious of his
approaching end, and manifested a strong desire to have his remains
conveyed to his friends. This was his last and almost only request; the
fear that this might not be complied with seemed to linger with him to
the last, and died only with his last pulsation. He received some
encouragement from the captain, but one short hour after his death, he
followed his unfortunate companions to the grave. He was buried in Lat
16° 3’ N.

A report is in circulation that there are dead bodies on board. On
inquiry, we learn that there are three--a man, a woman and child; they
were preserved in casks of spirits, and being conveyed to the States.
This created the greatest consternation in the minds of the sailors, and
they unanimously resolved to leave the ship at the first port. They have
a superstitious idea that vessels cannot be safely navigated with dead
bodies on board. Many of the passengers were confined to their berths,
some of them destined never again to leave them, until removed by death.
The scurvy had appeared in its worst form, and there was nothing on
board to relieve its victims. The food served out was most execrable;
those in robust health were pining away, and for the invalids, there was
no hope. Among the latter there were five who were deranged; they were
all confined to their berths, and seemed waiting to be relieved by
death. There is a physician on board, (whose father and captain Smith
are sole owners of the ship), his services, however, are not at the
disposition of all. The captain has flour, but pretends it does not
belong to the ship, and refuses to serve it out to the passengers. He,
however, offered to sell it, and two or three of us joined and bought a
quantity of him, together with a quantity of sugar; all to be paid for
in Panama, at Panama prices, and for all of which we _never had the most
distant idea_ of paying him a farthing. We hired the cook to prepare it
for us, and thereafter were well served. With this supply, we were in a
condition to invite the invalids to our table, where we could furnish
them something more palatable than sea-biscuit and salt beef.

My attention was attracted to one of the passengers, who, upon my
inquiring for Spanish books, offered me one of Spanish comedy; there was
something polished in his manners, yet something wayward, which very
much excited my interest. His clothes were good, still, in his
helplessness, they had become extremely filthy. He commenced
conversation, but soon stopped for a moment, as if trying to recollect
himself; and said he believed he had entirely lost his mind, that his
ideas were so incoherent, he feared he could not make himself
understood. He first inquired where the ship was bound; I informed him,
and asked him how he came on board. He did not know, but said he was
informed that he was to be sent home; he did not know why, nor from whom
he received the information. He wished me to converse with him, and try
to set him right; he gave me the keys to his trunks, and wished me to
open them. I found them stored with clothing of the best quality,
together with a well selected library of books, mathematical
instruments, and materials for drawing: everything indicating a man of
refinement and education. In his writing desk I found a patriotic poem,
composed and read by him, on board the ship in which he sailed for
California: on the anniversary of our national independence. I also
found a daguerreotype; the sight of this seemed to awaken pleasing
emotions. It contained the portraits of a lady and child; these he
recognized as his wife and little daughter. By the sight of these, he
was at first overcome; his wife appeared natural to him, but he had not
the most distant idea of the age of his little daughter; he wondered if
it was of a sufficient age, when he left home, to call him father, and
whether it would remember and greet him when he returned. He now
realized, most painfully, the gloom that hung like a pall over his
memory. The sight of the articles as I would take them out, seemed to
call up others, by association. The sight of rifle and pistol-balls
reminded him that he had, somewhere, a rifle and revolver, where, he did
not know. I requested him to run back in his memory, if possible, to the
time when he first became deranged. He said that he was attacked with
the fever at Benicia, and carried on board a ship that was then lying at
anchor. There were several sick on board, and during his sickness, one
was brought and placed on a table in front of his berth. He watched him
day after day, until one night, as the light fell dimly on his pallid
features, a slight convulsion passed over him, and his jaw fell. This
closed the scene; from this moment his mind had been wandering in the
dark labyrinths of forgetfulness. The fever had left him, and given
place to that dreaded malady, the scurvy, with which he had now become
reduced almost to helplessness. His feet and limbs were swollen to
double their usual size, their purple hue denoting the fearful state to
which his system was reduced. The name of this unfortunate man was E. W.
Clark, Jr., of West Boylston, Mass. He gave me his name, and the address
of his friends, at a time when he had but little hope of ever seeing
them, with the request that I should write them the particulars of his
death.

On the 16th, we were surrounded by porpoises; our first mate being an
old harpooner, descended into the martingale of the ship, his harpoon
being attached to a rope which passed through a tackle-block above, and
was manned by about thirty passengers. At the first plunge of the ship,
he “let go” the harpoon, taking effect in the back of a porpoise; “haul
away,” and the huge monster was swinging in the air. This was a moment
of intense excitement; the harpoon had passed almost through the body,
but in hauling him from the water, it had drawn out, holding only to a
half-inch of the skin. One struggle and he would have been released; but
the auspicious moment passed, and at the word “ease away,” he was safely
_shipped_ on our forecastle deck. His struggles now were fearful; his
throes causing the very spars to tremble. He strikes another and
another, both of which are safely drawn on board. He strikes a fourth,
and after hauling it several feet from the water, it falls from the
harpoon and rushes through the water, staining its wake with blood. We
are now well supplied with fish, but of a kind not calculated to tempt
the appetite.




Chapter Twenty-ninth.

     CLOUD AND CLIPPERTON ISLANDS--WHALES, SHARKS, PORPOISES, AND
     DOLPHINS--A SHARK CAPTURED--SHARK STEAK--“CAUDLE LECTURE”--DEATH OF
     SAMUEL B. LEWIS--A CALM--FOOT RACES BY THE SHIP’S
     FURNITURE--PASSENGER PECULIARITIES--SHORT OF PROVISIONS--“BOUT
     SHIP”--FIRST OF JANUARY--ITS LUXURIES AT SEA--A TAME SEA-FOWL--A
     PASSENGER DYING--A SHARK--A DELIGHTFUL EVENING SCENE--A
     DEATH--BURIAL AT SEA BY CANDLE LIGHT--A TURTLE NAVIGATING THE
     OCEAN--HIS SUSPICIOUS CONDUCT--A WRITTEN PROTEST AGAINST THE
     CAPTAIN--COCUS ISLAND--CAPTURING “BOOBIES.”


On the 17th, we passed under the lea of Cloud island--lat. 19°, long.
103°. 21st; passed Clipperton island, lat. 11°, long. 103°. The air is
filled with sea-fowl; the island is a rocky pile, having the appearance
of a dilapidated castle; and is surrounded by a low sandy beach. We are
surrounded by whales, sharks, porpoises and dolphins; our first mate
strikes a porpoise at midnight, and it is hauled on deck by the crew.

On the 22d, the mate struck a shark; it was hauled on deck, and we had
shark-steak for breakfast. All out with the captain, and the lectures he
receives are only equalled by those of the amiable “Mrs. Caudle.” He
finds himself wofully in the minority, and confines himself to his
state-room. We not only charge the adverse winds to his account, but the
destitution of the ship; of his guilt of the latter charge, the jury
were unanimous.

24th. The death of Samuel B. Lewis is announced. He was buried at 9
A.M., lat. 6°-12´ north. He was from Elmira, N. Y., where he leaves a
widowed mother to mourn his untimely death. On my return, I learned that
subsequent to his starting for California, his father was accidently
killed; the mother wrote for her son; he was her only solace; upon him
she leaned for consolation; but on a dreary night, as the wind howled
mournfully without, she dreamed her son returned, and as she was about
to clasp him to her bosom, he shrunk from her sight and disappeared
forever.

We have a calm for several days with intense heat; a general
restlessness is felt, passengers are out of patience; our ship has not
sufficient headway to cause her to mind the tiller; she rolls about like
a log, now plunging, throwing her sails all aback, now rising on a sea,
the rigging slackens, the spars and yards creak, the sails again fill,
and everything is again drawn to its utmost tension; she again plunges,
reers, and rises lengthwise of a sea; she careens and is thrown almost
upon her “beam-ends.” Trunks change sides, tables stand on their heads,
barrels get up foot-races, much to the annoyance of the passengers, who,
with shins in hand, enter most vehement protests, throwing in, an
occasional oath by way of emphasis. Jack “yarns” on the forecastle, Tom
has out a shark-hook; the cook has been mast-headed by the captain;
T----n comes down from the shrouds with a “damn my shirt-tail _to_
h--l,” looks at his boots and goes up again; Wright exclaims,
“certingly.” Palmly looks from under his quaker hat, and swears at the
captain; the Dutchman, with red whiskers, opens his mouth, which very
much resembles a cavity in a brick-kiln; he looks an oath in Dutch, but
don’t speak. To calm our ruffled passions we were informed that we were
short of provisions, and were to be put upon allowance.

On the 28th, the captain gave the order, “bout ship,” and we stood in
for the main land, 550 miles distant, lat. 6°, long. 96°. On the 29th, a
fine breeze springs up, we again change our course and stand east, in
the direction of Panama.

January 1st, 1850, lat. 6°, long. 9°; heat most oppressive; we have hard
fare for breakfast, same for dinner and supper. Oh, ye knights of
“Gotham!” did we not envy you? You, who are now cloyed with luxuries and
greeted by the smiles of friends, but little dream that he who, twelve
months ago, was your companion, has this moment dined upon sea-bread
that has become the home of vermin, and beef on about the fourth
anniversary of its salting, boiled in ocean-water.

A small bird flies on board in an exhausted condition; it is quite tame
and eats food from our hands. Our inquiries in reference to its home and
destination, were in vain; it remained on board during the day, and
seemed to appreciate our kindness.

It is rumored that one of our passengers is dying; a shark is at this
moment passing under the bow of the ship, as if anticipating his prey.
4th, rainy morning; it clears up at one, and we have a most delightful
evening; a heavy cloud settles around the horizon, leaving us, as it
were, in a lake as calm as a mirror. I never witnessed a more beautiful
scene; I am, however, in no humor to enjoy it. This is our thirty-eighth
day out, and the prospects most discouraging; I am over due at home, and
half the journey yet to be performed.

At 7 P.M. it was announced that Wm. F. Capron, of Palmyra, N. Y., was
dead; he was sewed up in a canvas shroud, and thirty minutes after his
death, with lights on deck, in latitude 6° 34´ N., he was consigned to
the ocean.

5th. Delightful morning, with fine breeze. We saw a large turtle
floating on the surface of the water, asleep; we lowered a boat, and
pulled off for him, but he awoke, and suspecting our movements, applied
his propellers with great dexterity, and diving toward the bottom he was
soon out of sight. He probably hailed from Cocus Island, distant one
hundred and twenty miles; his object in cruising in these waters we were
unable to learn. It being Monday, it was shrewdly suspected that he had
been out, on the previous night, in search of bright eyes. His being
asleep in the middle of the day, and his apparent _embarrassment_ on
being discovered, were evidence upon which almost any jury would have
convicted him.

6th. Calm, heat insupportable, and we are short of provisions. I have a
warm conversation with the captain, and draw up a protest, have it
signed by the passengers, designing to lay it before the consul at
Panama.


PROTEST.

     We, the undersigned, passengers on board the ship Edward Everett,
     Capt. HENRY SMITH, do hereby most solemnly aver that we were
     induced to take passage on said ship by representations made by
     said Capt. Smith and his agents, which representations were, that
     he had on board an extra supply of ship-stores, and that extra
     provisions had been made for the comfort of passengers. For this
     _extra provision_ an extra charge of $100 in the first, and $25 in
     the second cabin, had been made, above that of any vessel sailing
     from the same port for the same destination, during the present
     season.

     The above-named Capt. Smith, through public advertisements and
     otherwise, called the attention of invalids _particularly_, to the
     superior arrangements made for their comfort, that a physician
     would be in attendance, &c.

     Immediately upon getting under weigh we learned, to our sorrow,
     that we had been grossly deceived; that the above representations
     were false. Our provisions, many of them, were damaged, and, we
     were credibly informed, were purchased as such at San Francisco. Of
     some of the articles that are indispensable at sea, we were short,
     and immediately put upon allowance.

     Some of the passengers had made arrangements to work their passage,
     but upon first putting to sea were unable to do duty. The Captain
     called upon them in person, ordering them from their berths and on
     duty, threatening, in case of non-compliance, to put them ashore on
     the first island. Mr. Saml. B. Lewis, of Elmira, N. Y., who was
     working his passage as under-steward, was compelled to do duty when
     unable, and finally compelled to take to his berth, from which he
     never arose. Just previous to his death he manifested a wish to see
     the Captain, and said, “If I die my blood will be upon the
     Captain’s head.”

     The invalids, being compelled to live on the coarse fare of the
     steerage, suffered for want of nourishing food, of which the ship
     was entirely destitute, there not being a particle of dried fruit,
     preserved meats, wines, or any one of the articles thought
     indispensably necessary on ship-board.

     The physician, (whose father and Captain Smith were the owners of
     the ship,) paid no other attention to the sick than dealing out
     medicines, which he did _only_ at the most exorbitant charges. In
     some instances, passengers, after having been sick for days without
     nourishment, were obliged to buy flour of the Captain at exorbitant
     prices, and cook with their own hands something to sustain life.

     There have been five deaths on board, during the voyage. Wm. F.
     Capron, of Palmyra, N. Y., we do most solemnly believe died for
     want of proper nourishment; and in the case of Wm. B. Lewis, we
     believe he was brought to a premature death, by treatment received
     at the hands of the Captain, together with the want of proper
     nourishment after his prostration.

     Aside from the above unheard-of conduct, Capt. Smith went to sea
     without a single life or quarter-boat, consequently entirely
     unprepared to save life in case of accident, showing a recklessness
     of human life in the highest degree reprehensible, which should not
     be passed over in silence.

     We regret exceedingly that we are obliged to make the above charges
     against an American Captain, a class of men so justly celebrated
     for philanthropy and kindness; but the circumstances under which we
     are placed leave no alternative; and we hereby most respectfully
     request that our Consul at Panama will immediately enforce the law
     in this case, believing that a few public examples will put an end
     to the abuse.

     AT SEA, _January 6th, 1850, lat. 6° N., lon. 92° W._, having sailed
     from San Francisco, 28th November, 1849.

(_Signed_,)

ROBT. N. TATE, First Mate of Ship Edward Everett.

J. M. LETTS,        N. Y.
N. N. RAPELYE,        “
J. R. THORNE,         “
J. H. R. FAIRCHILD,   “
W. COOK,             Mo.
WM. TANNER,           “
J. SCORBOUGH,         “
J. H. HESS,           “
J. J. STARKY,       Iowa.
R. H. CALDWELL,     Ohio.
J. K. TURK,           “
D. MCCULLY,         Iowa.
C. L. HOAG,         N. Y.
J. H. MUMBY,          “
A. RILEY,             “
GEO. N. SEYMOUR,      “
JAS. REED, M. D.,     “
H. MARKS,             “
S. H. STEVENS,        “
J. F. ALLEN,          “
J. GAFFNEY,         N. J.
J. PIERSON,           “
P. D. ELMENDORF,      “
G. SILLCOCKE,         “
G. A. BARNES,       Ind.
J. C. CORWIN,        Mo.
F. MINTON,            “
B. SWART,             “
M. Z. SUZEE,          “
J. TURNER,            “
Z. REDWIN,            “
J. ALBRIGHT,          “
J. L. SIMMONS,        “
S. D. BALDWIN,        “
B. HOLT,              “
J. N. YORK,           “
J. N. CLAUSON,       Mo.
J. D. MOTT,           “
R. N. SULLIVAN,     Mass.
J. H. GREEN,          “
J. H. FICKET,         “
J. R. FOSTER,         “
J. M. RICHNEY,       Ill.
J. SHARP,           Ohio.
L. H. MCGEE,          “
S. HEATH,            Me.
C. B. CASTELLA,      Ky.
H. S. SHOUDY,         “
WM. E. JUDD,         Md.
ROBT. HOLLAND,      Conn.
F. P. BERKEN,       N. O.
H. STARKFLEET,        “
J. P. PETERSON,       “
J. B. HALL,          Pa.
J. WILLIAMSON,        “
S. GRIFFIN,          Va.

     7th. Pass within forty miles of Cocus Island.

     8th. Indication of land; a cloud of “boobies” surround the ship,
     lighting on the spars and rigging; we divert ourselves by tying
     clubs to fishing lines, throwing them around their necks, and
     hauling them in. They appeared to enter into the sport with as much
     zeal as ourselves, for upon being released they would fly around,
     and seem to say, “do it again.”




     Chapter Thirtieth.

     INTENSE HEAT--HUMAN NATURE AS EXHIBITED BY THE PASSENGERS--DANGER,
     NOT APPREHENDED--A TATTLER--A “DUTCH JUSTICE”--“LONG TOM COFFIN”--A
     QUAKER HAT--AN INDIVIDUAL RUNNING WILD--HIS OATHS, DEPREDATIONS,
     MUSICAL ACCOMPLISHMENTS, SHOWMAN PROPENSITIES, AND PUGILISTIC
     DEVELOPMENTS--“BLUBBER,” BUCKSKIN, AND “THE LAST RUN OF SHAD”--A
     CAPSIZED WHALE-BOAT--THRILLING SENSATION--HARPOON USED--A
     SHARK--“LAND HO!”--GULF OF PANAMA--SOUTH AMERICAN COAST--“SAIL
     HO!”--DOLPHIN FOR DINNER--A WHALE--A TERRIFIC GALE--OUR SAILS AND
     SPARS CARRIED AWAY.


January 8th. CALM with intense heat. Our ship rolls about at the mercy
of the sea, the spars creaking, and the sails displaying as little
ambition as if they designed to enfold the yards in an eternal sleep.
This example of tranquillity was but illy followed by the passengers; it
appeared to foment their passions, bringing the evil ones to the
surface. Each was disposed to demand an apology from his neighbor for
wrongs either real or imaginary, (mostly of the latter;) the neighbor
declaiming, in the most vehement manner, that he is the injured party.

What a motley group! what an exposition of the dissimilarity of human
nature! Here are my friends Fairchild and Seymour, all they should be,
disposed to look upon the brightest side of the picture; McG. offering
$100 for the strength he once had; “he would whip that d--d Englishman,”
the Englishman, at the same time, swelling and blowing about, with the
pomp and glory of “Old England” flitting through his imagination, quite
ignorant of his impending danger. Gates, on the alert for news for the
captain’s ear, for which he gets an occasional cup of coffee, together
with the universal detestation of the passengers; the “Dutch Justice”
strutting about with all the pomp of brainless vanity; the professor,
learned in love, law, and physic, which comprises, in his estimation,
all that can be learned in this world; “Long Tom Coffin,” the very “beau
ideal” of the hero himself, stretched out on the quarter-deck, very
much resembling a pair of oyster-tongs. He had Blackstone and Kent at
his tongue’s end, and swore that, on his arrival in Maine, he would
prefer a “BRIEF” for the captain’s especial edification; P----ly,
sitting under a quaker hat, as forbidding in appearance as he is in
fact, damning all indiscriminately who differ with him in opinion. T----n,
who in attempting to relate an occurrence commences at the last word,
throwing the balance on the top of it, in the most unintelligible
confusion. He is about twenty-one years of age, has been well brought
up, with a good education, but is now running wild. He blacks his boots
and starts for mast-head; half-way up, he halts, looks at his boots,
suspects that they might have received a higher polish, and with a “d--n
my shirt-tail to h--l,” comes down again. He discovers some one’s can of
preserved meat; he takes it to the cook, and soon _some one_ is invited
to dine with him, and if he discovers _some one’s_ bottle of wine, some
one is _almost_ sure to get _one_ glass of it. He had a passion for
music, but generally sung in parodies, as follows:

    I’m sitting on a stile, Mary,
    Not knowing where to jump;
    My foot it slipped, I caught a fall,
    And struck upon a stump,
            Ittee bump, ittee bump, ittee bump.

almost indefinitely, closing up with “well, well, d--n my shirt-tail to
h--l, d--n it _to_ h--l,” and again starting for mast-head; he would
probably reach the first yard, when a new idea, and he would be again on
deck, playing superintendent of a caravan, with “John, take that little
monkey from his mother, or he will _suck_ her to death, not that I wish
to disturb the animals in their innocent amusements, but by G--d the
public eye must be respected; music, ting-a-ling, ting-a-ling, well,
well, &c.” He is now interrupted by “Blubber,” alias “Livingston &
Wells’ Express;” a short quarrel, and they square off for a fight.
Blubber is backed by Buckskin, alias “the last run of shad,” and they
don’t fight.

We have a steward that knows his place, and another that does not
deserve one on this earth; a cook who has not been accused of washing
himself during the voyage, and one who appears never to have been guilty
of the act. A negro who knows his place and keeps it, a white man, his
neighbor, assuming everybody’s place but his own; one man with no
appetite, another creating a famine in his immediate neighborhood; five
crazy men, fifty invalids, a penurious doctor, two mates--Tate and
Barry--noblemen of nature’s own make, and a captain who was made
afterwards. In one thing _only_ were we unanimous, which was the
condemnation of sailing vessels in general, and the “Everett” in
particular, including her captain.

11th. We discover something near the horizon resembling a capsized
whale-boat. This causes a great sensation; the first mate mans the
quarter-boat and pulls off for the object. The passengers watch most
intently, the little craft as it rises upon the crest of a
mountain-wave, and now disappearing, again rises to our view, still
nearing the object in the distance. As they approach still nearer,
through the ship’s glass, we see fowls rising from it, and now the mate,
standing in the bow, elevates the harpoon, as if to strike. A large
sea-fowl still clings to the object; as they approach still nearer, it
flies. The mate throws the harpoon and soon they are returning to the
ship. They pronounced the object a pine-log. They have a Dolphin and
several small fish; a cry of shark, and a large one passes along the
weather side, four are following astern, accompanied by their pilots. We
use the harpoon, but without success.

12th. 4 A.M., cry of “land ho!” I dress and go on deck; we are in sight
of Points Mala and Puerco, at the entrance to the gulf of Panama, 100
miles from the city. A steamer is just passing the point into the gulf;
a strong wind is blowing off the land, and west and in, running close on
the wind. We beat all night, and in the morning find ourselves in the
same position.

13th. Wind still dead ahead; after standing in and nearing the South
American coast, we put about on the other tack; the wind soon “hauls,”
and we stand directly for the point and soon enter the mouth of the
gulf. At 4 P.M., mate cries out from mast-head, “sail ho!” “How does she
bear?” “Two points off leeward bow, sir.” Delightful sunset; a school of
porpoises are tumbling about in ecstasies.

14th. Pleasant morning; we are just off the inner point. A fine breeze
blows off, our ship bows to the impulse, and we stand along under the
lee of the land. Cry of dolphin, captain strikes one with the harpoon,
it struggles with the instrument, disengages itself, and disappears in
the direction of the bottom; he strikes another, it is hauled safely on
board and served up for dinner. A whale passes, but not sufficiently
near to receive our salutation. 4 P.M., it blows a gale, captain cries
out, “clue up the top-gallantsail,” “aye, aye, sir.” During the night we
have a terrific gale; it carries away our jib, foretop-sail,
foretop-gallantsail, maintop-staysail, and maintop-gallantsail.

15th. The gale still continues; we are driven out of sight of land, but
arrive in sight of the South American coast at 3 P.M., the Andes
towering up, hiding themselves in the clouds.

16. Strong winds; we are about sixty miles from Panama, running close in
shore. At evening, the kind-hearted inhabitants light beacons upon the
side of the mountain, to guide us during the night. At nine we put about
on the other tack, and at four in the morning were within ten minutes
run of being aground.




Chapter Thirty-first.

     BAY OF PANAMA--ITS BEAUTIES--TROPICAL FRUITS--THE CITY IN
     SIGHT--EXCITEMENT ON BOARD--APPEARANCE OF THE CITY; HER
     RUINS--PREPARATIONS TO DROP ANCHOR--“STAND BY”--“LET GO THE
     ANCHOR”--FAREWELL TO THE SICK--A PERILOUS RIDE ON THE BACK OF AN
     INDIVIDUAL--ON SHORE--FIRST DINNER--NOTHING LEFT--AN INDIVIDUAL
     FEELING COMFORTABLE--PANAMA AMERICANIZED--A MOONLIGHT SCENE VIEWED
     FROM A BRASS “FIFTY-SIX”--A DILAPIDATED CONVENT, AS SEEN AT
     NIGHT--CHURCH BELLS--BURNING THE DEAD--EXPOSURE OF THE DESECRATED
     REMAINS--SICKENING AND DISGUSTING SIGHT--INFANTS CAST INTO
     PITS--THE RESCUE OF THEIR SOULS REQUIRING A GIGANTIC EFFORT ON THE
     PART OF THE CHURCH--A HECTACOMB--“ETERNAL LIGHT”--IGNORANCE OF THE
     MASS--PEERLESS CHARACTERISTICS.


18th. We are surrounded by islands; is there another bay that will
compare with this? Certainly I never imagined anything so like a fairy
scene. We are in the midst of twenty islands, all covered with tropical
fruits of spontaneous growth; the orange, lime, fig, and cocoa-nut
trees, interlaced with the grape, forming shelter for the inhabitants,
and presenting them with food. We were in a condition to appreciate,
most fully, the surrounding scene. Our voyage, which had now lasted
fifty-one days, was commenced under adverse circumstances; five of the
passengers had already died, and several were still confined to their
berths with scurvy, some of them destined to breathe their last on
board.

4 P.M. As we emerge from behind a small island, we are in fall view of
Panama, the towers of her cathedral looming up, and her dilapidated wall
extending along the water line; all are now in a phrensy of excitement;
the passengers are climbing into the rigging, gazing with astonishment
upon the surrounding scene. The wind blows fresh from the land, and we
are obliged to beat up directly in its eye; we passed near Tobago in the
evening, and in the morning were near our anchorage. We run up the stars
and stripes, and prepare to drop anchor; our trunks are in readiness,
and we expect soon to be transferred to the shore.

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
PANAMA, FROM THE BATTERY.]

The city, nestling cosily at the base of Cerro Lancon, looks
enchantingly, her towers and domes being lighted up by the morning sun.
Her dilapidated monasteries are also seen, and her extended wall, the
base of which is washed by the gentle surf. That distant tower, shrouded
in ivy, dripping with the morning dew, seems weeping over the tomb of a
departed city. Everything conspired to awaken emotions of the most
romantic character. Our captain mounts the quarter deck and cries out,
“all hands on deck to work ship.” “Aye aye, sir.” “Clue up the mainsail”
“hard a-lee,” “main-topsail, haul;” “haul taut the weather main-braces;”
the ship comes about on the other tack. A boat nears us, “Stand by to
throw a rope;” a man comes on board; “bout ship,” “stand by the anchor,”
“haul down the jib;” mate heaves the lead and cries out, “four fathom o’
the deep ho!” “fore and main-sail, clue up.” We are now standing towards
the United States’ man-of-war Southampton. “Let go the mizen top-sail
braces,” “stand by,” “let go the anchor,” and at 9 A.M., our ship
rounded to and bowed submission to her chains. We are now at anchor five
miles from shore; a fleet of _bungoes_ are coming off for the
passengers, propelled by natives in their “dishabille;” all who are
able, are prepared to debark, but fourteen of our number are confined to
their berths in a helpless, and almost hopeless condition; my friend
Clark is one of the number; the scurvy has rendered his limbs entirely
useless, and there is no hope entertained of his recovery. We bade them
farewell, and started for the shore. We looked back at the ship, which
now presents the trim appearance of a ship close-reefed.

It being ebb-tide our boat went aground half a mile from the shore; our
boatmen, however, were prepared for the emergency, it being with them an
almost daily occurrence; they got out, backed up, and wished us to
mount. It was to me a novel way of riding. I had ridden “bare-backed,”
but always supported by a greater number of legs. After sundry stumbles
and plunges, which kept my clean shirt in imminent peril, I was safely
set down on shore, for which extra service my noble steed thought a
_real_ full compensation. I had my trunk carried to the Philadelphia
Hotel. I drank freely of wine and went out on the balcony, which extends
from the second story, to enjoy a cigar and my own thoughts. I soon
felt as happy as a man could well feel under the influence of the same
quantity of wine. I kept my eye on the table, dinner was in an advanced
state of preparation; and, dear reader, you will form some idea of the
voracity of my appetite when you reflect that I have not dined in
fifty-one days. I must claim your indulgence here, for I must confess I
am in doubt whether I am competent to write intelligibly; just on shore,
you know; and then, you know, the best of wine will sometimes lead one
astray; but dinner is ready, and who cares for public opinion when he
has enough to eat and _drink_. I sat at table as long as there was
anything visible, when I, very prudently, got up, lighted a cigar and
went out for a promenade. The wine was flowing briskly through my veins,
and I felt a healthful glow throughout my system. I felt that politeness
was the main ingredient in my composition, and was disposed to raise my
hat to every individual I met. I, however, restrained myself, and
bestowed my bows only upon the half-clad Señoritas.

Panama had become completely Americanized. There was the American Hotel,
the New York, the Philadelphia, the United States, the St. Charles,
Washington, &c., &c., and half the business in town was done by
Americans. After supper, we strolled to the “Battery,” seated ourselves
on a brass fifty-six, and viewed one of the most magnificent moon-light
scenes I ever beheld. The bay was as placid as a mirror; the ships lying
quietly at anchor, loomed up like phantoms; the islands being just
visible in the distance. Behind us was a ruined monastery, the moon
looking in at the roof and windows, disclosing the innumerable bats that
nightly congregate to gambol through these halls of desolation. After
spending an hour here, we passed through one of the dilapidated gateways
and took a surf bath; we reëntered through the gateway, and passed along
the wall to the convent of San Francisco, an immense structure covering
an area of 300 feet square: it is now untenanted, and in ruins. Near one
corner of this, standing in the street, is a stone pedestal surmounted
by a cross, where the devout are wont to kneel and kiss the image of
“Nuestro Señora.” Passing up the main street, “_Calle de Merced_,” we
found the citizens all out enjoying the evening; and as we passed we
could hear them modestly whisper, “Los Americanos tiene mucho oro;”
during the night we had the usual procession of nuns and priests, and
the next day was ushered in by the discordant clamor of church-bells. I
say this without reproach, for half the bells were cracked, (and it was
a great wonder they were not all so,) and every morning from daylight to
nine, they were undergoing the ordeal of a severe drubbing.

The vaults of Panama in which the dead are deposited, are laid up in
mason work, and resemble a succession of large ovens. They are under the
control of the priests, and are the source of an immense revenue. Of the
strange and often barbarous customs adopted by the church here, the most
strange, the most inhuman and revolting, is that of burning the bodies
of the dead. This diabolical practice cannot be contemplated without
feelings of indignation and horror. Nations have practiced the burning
of their dead in order to preserve their ashes, but this is not the
object here--would that I could have learned an object so laudable--but
here nothing can be said in mitigation. The word of the priest is
potent, and considered by the people a mandate from Heaven. Whatever he
requires is submitted to with cheerfulness, they thinking it the will of
the Supreme Being. The priest requires a fee for his important
intercessions for the dead, as well for the consecrated tapers that burn
at the head of the corpse during the funeral services, as for a place in
consecrated ground, and prayers for the soul which is supposed to linger
a long and painful probation in purgatory, after the body is consigned
to the tomb. The friends of the dead are obliged to pay in proportion to
the services rendered. A requiem in a whisper costs but half as much as
one in an audible tone of voice, and one on high “C” is still much more
expensive. A place for burial in the earth, even in consecrated ground,
is procured at a moderate cost, but in the vaults, above described, the
charge is much higher, often beyond the means of the poorer classes.
These vaults as well as the consecrated ground belong to the church, and
the proceeds go into the hands of the priests. The vaults are not
numerous, and are of sufficient capacity only to accommodate the deaths
of a few months; but in order to serve all, the priests have hit upon
the expedient of an annual “funeral pile.” “All-Saint’s day” in each
year, is the one dedicated to this sacrilegious act. On that day the
vaults give up their dead, which are carried a short distance and
committed to the flames.

This act would be less revolting if done effectually, but like
everything done in this country, it is but half done. Men are hired to
do the work, but wood being scarce, and not expecting the priests to
inspect, they do as little work as possible, keeping in view their
reward. I can never forget my feelings, upon visiting this scene of
annual desecration; my very soul sickens with disgust at the
recollection of it. Here were coffins half-burned, exhibiting the
ghastly visages of their lifeless tenants; others having turned over
during the conflagration, had emptied the half-decayed bodies upon the
ground; some partially consumed, others still shrouded in their
grave-clothes. Here lay the head and part of the chest of a stalwart
frame, the flesh having but just commenced to decay, the countenance
still bearing the impress of its Maker. Very near, partially shrouded in
a winding sheet, were the delicately moulded limbs of a female, who had
for a brief period tenanted the house of death, now brought forth and
committed to the flames.

It will be a consolation to those residing in the States, who have lost
friends at Panama, to know that no one out of _the church_ is allowed
burial in consecrated ground; their remains, consequently, are not
disturbed. According to the _true_ theory of religion, infants that die
before baptism go directly to purgatory, notwithstanding their parents
may belong to the _true_ church. As a suitable receptacle for these
unfortunate little innocents, deep pits are dug in the rear of the
churches, into which they are unceremoniously cast; their influence upon
consecrated ground would, it is thought, be contaminating. Curiosity led
me to inspect one of these pits; what I beheld I will leave to the
imagination of the reader. I am not prepared to say _positively_, but I
believe that the true theory in reference to these infants is, that they
are not irrevocably lost, but to reclaim them from purgatory requires a
_gigantic_ effort on the part of the church.

There are many things here to attract and awaken interest in the mind,
but no matter how strong the desire for information, nothing can be
learned from the lower classes of the population. The source of
information which, in the States is inexhaustible, is here barren; for
to say that a New Grenadian _even_ knows his own wife and children, is
awarding him, comparatively, a very high degree of attainment. Pass and
inspect the ruins of a monastery or other edifice, and ask the first
person you meet what it is, and what the cause of its destruction? the
invariable reply is, “_no sabio, Señor_.” In passing along near the head
of “_Calle San Juan de Dio_,” my attention was attracted by the
movements of a little girl who, with a lighted taper in her hand, passed
rapidly along to an elbow in the main wall of the city, and leaving her
light hastily retreated. Upon inspecting the spot, I discovered that
part of the wall was laid up of human skulls, and removing a stone which
closed up an aperture, I saw a burning taper which is kept here as an
“eternal light.” I stepped into a small store near and inquired the
history of this catacomb; the response was, “no sabi Señor.” My solution
was that they were the bones of heroes who had fallen in the defence of
the city.

When speaking of the ignorance of the people, I wish to be understood as
alluding to the mass, for, in Panama, there are ladies and gentlemen of
the highest cultivation and attainments, those who are endowed in the
highest degree with those peerless qualities which are so pre-eminently
characteristic of the Castilian race. The stranger’s friend, and
friend’s protector; life itself is not a sacrifice when lost in the
protection of that of a friend. The ignorance of the mass, as in all the
departments of Spanish America, arises from a want of noble incentives;
the entire mind being enslaved and controlled by the church.




Chapter Thirty-second.

     A NUN--FANDANGO--MARRIAGE ENGAGEMENT BROKEN--START FOR GORGONA--OUR
     EXTREME MODESTY--SAGACITY OF THE MULE--SLEEP ON MY TRUNK--A
     DREAM--AN ALLIGATOR WITH A MOUSTACHE--INFERNAL REGIONS--DEMONS--AN
     INDIVIDUAL WITH LONG EARS, AND A MULE IN BOOTS--FALLING OUT OF
     BED--FUNERAL PROCESSION--GORGONA--START FOR CHAGRES--OUR BUNGO
     FULL--SPONTANEOUS COMBUSTION, ALMOST--“POCO TIEMPO”--LIZARDS FOR
     DINNER--THE HOSTESS--GATUN--MUSIC OF THE OCEAN--ARRIVAL.


There were a number of Americans in town, _en route_ to California,
awaiting the arrival of the Steamer Oregon, which was, at this time,
fully due; there were also here several females from the States,
_unattended_, on their way to the “Eldorado.” I sketched the convent of
“San Francisco” and “La Mugher,” and while doing the latter I was
watched by a nun whose pallid features I could plainly see through the
grating.

During the evening we visited the “lions,” and brought up at a
“fandango;” we did not, however, participate in the dance, but retired
in good season, designing to set out the next morning for Gorgona. At an
early hour the Philadelphia was besieged by dusky muleteers reiterating
their “cargo Gorgona?” and before the sun had shown his disc above the
horizon, we were under way. As we passed along _Calle de Merced_, I was
very modestly recognized by an interesting Señorita, who, on the
previous evening, had made to me a proposition of marriage; I, of
course, accepted; but owing to numerous pressing engagements, I was not
just then prepared to attend to it, and postponed it until the next
evening. I did not tell her that I was to leave town early the next
morning, nor did she suspect when I passed, that I was on my way, but
looked as much as to say, “you won’t forget, will you?” As we gained the
out-skirts of the city, we were hailed by half a dozen half-clad
natives, who demanded a _real_ for each horse and mule in our
cavalcade. We exhibited the strongest symptoms of non-compliance, and
our worthy collectors were soon convinced that we were _not_ the party
they were looking for; they, however, succeeded in extorting from many,
and claimed to be acting under a recent act of government.

As we arrived at the national bridge, we met a party of Señoritas
wending their way towards the city; they saluted us with “buenos dias,
Caballieros,” and said by their looks that they would accompany us to
the States, if we wished them to. Our extreme modesty prevented our
making the proposition, and we parted with a mutual “adios.” We soon
entered the forest, where the gigantic palms, embracing each other,
protected us from the scorching rays of the sun. Our cavalcade was made
up of mules and horses, some of them mounted, others packed. Our mutual
friend, J. R. Foster, whom we had expected for days to consign to the
ocean, was one of our party; being mounted on a gentle horse, in an easy
saddle, and buoyed up with the fond hope of again reaching home, he
astonished all by his persevering endurance. The balance of the party
were in good health, and enjoyed the trip exceedingly.

I was much struck, as I had often been, with the sagacity of the mule.
One of them was packed with Mr. Fairchild’s trunk, and my own; feeling
some interest in my trunk, I naturally paid the most attention to that
particular mule; and if he could have understood any language excepting
the dead ones, I should have informed him that I thought him a very fine
fellow. But just as I came to this very satisfactory conclusion, he was
guilty of a freak that well-nigh destroyed my confidence in him. We had
gained the summit of a hill, where the path stretched away for half a
mile, almost level, when mule took it into his head to run, and, to my
great amazement, he did run; I presumed he was making his escape, and
cried out to the muleteer to stop him, but he replied “mula caro algun
per comer,” and so it proved, for after running a quarter of a mile, he
stopped and commenced eating. As soon as the cavalcade came up, he again
started, and kept repeating until he had satisfied his hunger, when he
walked along in the most orderly manner, and good humored too, for his
ears were erect, and a smile appeared to beam from his countenance. At
our first watering-place, after drinking, he dropped himself down, in
the most mechanical manner, to rest. When we were ready to start, the
“mula” of our muleteer would bring him to his hoofs, all right, and off.

At 1 P.M., we reached the “half-way tent,” and as some of the party were
behind, we resolved to put up for the night. After supper we heard a
cannon, announcing the arrival of the Oregon at Panama. I stretched
myself out on my trunk in the open air, and was soon unconscious of my
situation. My spirit was restless, and, as if not satisfied with one
trip, spent the night in passing to and fro, over the route we had
traveled during the day. Now my mule would change to a monkey, and I
would ride him to the top of one of the highest trees; he would then
become instantly transformed into an alligator, and there would be left
no alternative but to precipitate ourselves into the mud below; in the
passage down I was also transformed into an alligator, and immediately
found myself covered with scales and swimming about in a pond, with an
alligator on each side, holding on to my moustache, “showing me up” to
my fellow alligators. The honors heaped upon me so excited and elated
me, that I commenced rushing through the water, and soon found myself
high and dry on land, looking around for my mule. I again mounted, and
resolved to have no farther connexion with either monkey or alligator,
but to ride directly through to Gorgona. Again my spirit lost its way,
and I found myself on the bank of one of the most sluggish and dismal
streams it is possible to imagine; the recollection of it now sends a
chill to my heart. My mule stood appalled with terror, and cried for
mercy, when I applied the spur. There was no alternative; it lay in the
route, and we must cross it; I rode back a short distance that my mule
might forget his terror; he again came up, reared and plunged, and we
immediately sank below the surface; we continued to sink down, down,
down, a damp chilly sensation crept over me, and I became stifled with
horror; now my mule blows fire and smoke from his nostrils, and a demon
of the most appalling aspect, covered with green and slime, and now
another and another, all dancing along, laughing most hideously and
biting their fingers in derision, as they contemplate their victim. We
soon reached their abode, my blood is sent curdling to my heart, and
with a feeling of horror and desperation I strike the spur into my
mule, and with one terrific leap we pass through unscathed. The demons
gave chase, but borne on the wings of fear we soon reached the other
side of the earth. Here everything appears strange; my mule has but two
legs, and wears boots and spurs; I have four legs, and a pair of
enormous ears; I am led up to a block and mounted by his _muleship_,
who, after lighting his cigar, applies his spurs; I determined to reach
the other side by recrossing his “Satanic majestie’s” dominions, and
after passing through the same horrifying scene, regained the starting
point. I remounted my mule, which now seemed to have the usual number of
legs, and after crossing sloughs and climbing mountains, we came to a
precipice which he refused to descend. After repeated applications of
the spur, he reared and plunged, and as he reached the brink of the
precipice he settled back, and I passed over his head; in passing over I
caught hold of his ears, which, pulling out, I was precipitated into the
abyss below. The concussion awoke me, and I found that I had fallen from
my trunk, and was grasping tightly the bottoms of the legs of my
pantaloons.

In the morning we had the satisfaction of learning that our mules had
strayed, and were detained until 10 o’clock. We reached Gorgona at 4
P.M. As we were entering the town, we met a funeral procession headed by
a fife and drum; the corpse borne on a bier with face uncovered,
(coffins are not used,) the mother of deceased standing in the door of
her dwelling, uttering the most heart-rending exclamations. The whole
was accompanied by the uncouth sound of a piece of old iron hanging in
the church door, serving as a bell, and at this particular time
undergoing a severe castigation. Towards evening, another corpse was
borne along with the same accompaniments. The deceased was a small
child; its head was decorated with flowers, its face uncovered, looking
the very personation of sleeping innocence.

We put up at the French Hotel, and learning that the Empire City was to
remain but one day longer at Chagres, we resolved to embark early the
next morning. We contracted with a native to take our party of eleven
for $22, and at an early hour were _en route_. We glided down the river
very pleasantly, propelled by three oarsmen, with our worthy captain at
the helm. After making two or three miles, we were brought to a dead
stand on a sand-bar; our boatmen backed up, we mounted and were carried
to the shore. They succeeded in getting the bungo over the shoal and we
reëmbarked half a mile below.

It will be imagined that we had but little spare room in our craft after
putting in eleven trunks, as many traveling-bags, as many pairs of
blankets, and fifteen human beings. This was the case; and some of our
passengers having tasted the luxury of a California life, looked upon
our voyage down the river as a hardship unendurable, and censured the
fellow-passenger who had made the contract. The latter worthy, feeling
it an unjust imputation, gave the dissatisfied gentlemen above mentioned
the privilege of taking passage in any craft that might come along. This
led to personalities, and the feelings of our party were immediately in
a state of ferment; brandy did not serve to allay the excitement, but
seemed to add fuel, and we were on the eve of spontaneous combustion.

We arrived at a rancho, where it was proposed to dine. Here commenced a
dissertation on “poco tiempo,” (little time). These two words constitute
almost the entire vocabulary of a native. Ask him how far it is to a
rancho, “poco tiempo,” how far it is to water, “poco tiempo.” If they
are employed by you, and you allow them to stop under any pretext, they
never start, but are always on the point of so doing; it is “poco
tiempo.”

We had contracted to be taken through by daylight, and we had no time to
spare; but after dinner the crew and “_el capitan_” must have their
“_siesta_.” We would urge them to start, but they were fatigued, they
would start “poco tiempo.” They would “_caro agua_,” or “_caro cognac_,”
and after a detention of two hours we got into the _bungo_ and were in
the act of shoving off, when they consented to come on board, and we
were again under way.

I omitted our bill of fare at the above rancho. Our worthy hostess was
on the shady side of forty, and surrounded by half a dozen
“_muchachos_,” all as naked at they came into the world. Our hostess had
paid a little more attention to her toilet, and seemed dressed with an
express view to comfort, her entire wardrobe consisting of a pair
slippers and a Panama hat. Our first dish was a stew of lizards and
carna; this was served out in gourd-shells, which were held to our
mouths, and the pieces of meat coaxed in with our fingers. Our second
and last dish was boiled eggs. Our cook should have felt complimented,
for we ate and drank everything in the house, and wanted more. She
looked on with astonishment at the sudden disappearance of her stew and
eggs, and said to one of our boatmen, “los Americanos tiena mucho
hambre;” and so we were hungry, or we could not have relished lizards
even when stewed, for I must confess my predilections were never very
strongly in favor of that particular species of reptile. In passing
along down, we came in contact with the carcase of a large alligator; it
had been pierced by several balls, and was now borne along by the
current, destined, perhaps, to take up its final rest in the bosom of
the Atlantic. In the afterpart of the day we were overtaken by Mr.
Miller of Gorgona, who was expressing to the steamer at Chagres the
arrival of the Oregon at Panama. Night overtook us in a most discordant
mood, and at a great distance from our destination.

We arrived at Gatun at 9 P.M.; some were in favor of stopping, others of
continuing on, the former had the majority, and we made fast to the
shore, and had another dissertation on “poco tiempo,” and after an
hour’s detention were again under way.

At 2 A.M., we heard the sound of drums, and our boatmen cry out
“fandango;” we could soon distinguish the ocean by the halo that rose
from its surface, and could plainly hear the surf as it broke upon the
beach. We could see the lights on the steamer that was at anchor
outside, and an occasional light dodging about on shore.

At 3 A.M., we made fast to the American bank of the river, and had our
baggage carried to the American Hotel. All were asleep, but we took
possession of the dining-room and spread our blankets on the floor. The
next morning we were all at breakfast precisely at the time _and a
little before_.




Chapter Thirty-third.

     CHAGRES, ITS GROWTH--GETTING ON BOARD THE EMPIRE CITY--MAGNIFICENT
     STEAMER--GOLD DUST ON BOARD--STEAMERS ALABAMA, FALCON, CHEROKEE,
     AND SEVERN--MY FRIEND CLARK ARRIVES ON BOARD--PREPARATIONS FOR
     STARTING--OUR STEAMER MAKES HER FIRST LEAP--“ADIOS”--CARIBBEAN
     SEA--HEAVY SEA ON--JAMAICA--PORT
     ROYAL--KINGSTON--“STEADY”--BEAUTIFUL SCENE--ORANGE GROVES--PEOPLE
     FLOCKING TO THE SHORE--DROP ANCHOR--THE TOWN--GENERAL SANTA ANNA’S
     RESIDENCE--“COALING UP”--A PARROT PEDLER IN A DILEMMA.


Chagres had undergone a great change; the American side which had
contained but one hut on my first arrival, now presented the appearance
of a thriving village of substantial framed houses, and appeared a place
of considerable business. (See Plate). The facilities for transportation
up the river and across to Panama, were ample. Several express agencies
had been established, and arrangements made on a gigantic scale for the
transportation of goods up the river; several barges of the largest
class, furnished with India-rubber covering to protect goods from the
weather, and lighters of the greatest strength and capacity for the
transmission of treasures to and from the steamers. In connection with
these, there were mules stationed at Panama and Gorgona, to serve in the
land transportation.

After breakfast I went off to the steamer Empire City, “prospecting.” It
was blowing a severe norther, and it was with much difficulty we reached
the steamer, and more that we got on board of her. Iron steps were let
down on the side of the steamer, and as she would roll to us, the steps
would be immersed, and as she would commence to roll back, one of the
passengers would stand ready and jump on. After an elevation of twenty
or thirty feet, the steps would return for another passenger.

The accommodations on board were unparalleled. I immediately engaged
passage and sent off for my trunk, which came on board in the afternoon,
in charge of Mr. Jas. Rolfe Foster,

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
BROWN & SEVERIN LITH.
G. W. LEWIS PRINT.
CHAGRES, FROM THE CASTLE, LOOKING DOWN.
1851.]

who shared my state-room. The Empire City is the “ne plus ultra” of
steamers, and Captain Wilson worthy to command her. She is almost a
world in size, furnished with the greatest magnificence, her bill of
fare comprising the luxuries of all climates. The Steamers Alabama from
New Orleans, and Falcon from New York, came in, in the afterpart of the
day.

25th. The _dust_ by the Oregon has just arrived from Panama, and as soon
as it is on board we shall up anchor. There are $1,600,000, besides what
is in the hands of passengers. _Bungoes_ are coming off with passengers,
and as it is blowing a gale, the steamer rolls tremendously, making it
almost impossible for passengers to board her. The greatest dexterity is
required, for, after reaching the steps, one is in imminent danger of
being swept off by the next sea. Ladies were drawn up in chairs, as were
also the invalids. In the afterpart of the day, I had the extreme
pleasure of assisting on board my friend E. W. Clark, jr., I had left
him in his berth on board the Everett, in a very feeble state; but the
tropical fruits had operated upon his system like magic, and he had
become able to cross the Isthmus on horseback. He eventually recovered,
and was restored to his friends. Mr. Lewis came on board also. He had
lost the use of one of his legs, and was borne across on a litter. One
of our fellow passengers on the Everett was less fortunate; he lived two
days after coming to anchor, when he expired and was taken on shore at
Panama, and buried.

26th. The British Steamer, Severn, has just come to anchor, also the
Cherokee from New York. At 3 P.M., the Alabama moved off in the
direction of New Orleans, crowded with passengers. The smoke is
beginning to loom up from our chimney, our quarter boats are hauled up;
soon the windlass draws our anchor from its bed, and our steamer raises
her head, and makes her first leap for home. We passed the Cherokee and
received three hearty cheers, then the Falcon, then the Severn, and were
soon on our course, in the direction of Kingston, Jamaica. Chagres is
situated in lat. 9°, 21´, long. 8°, 4´. We were now fairly launched,
homeward bound; the waves of the Caribbean sea fleeing from us, as if
fearful of being drawn into the vortex of our wheel. I remained on deck
until a late hour; we had a fresh breeze and heavy sea; the moon was
almost full, and playing the coquette, now hiding her face, and now
casting upon us one of her most bewitching smiles.

27th. (Sunday). It is one year this morning since I took leave of home
and sailed for California. During my absence, I have passed through what
has cost many a life, and once almost felt the last pulsation. But now I
am in a fair way of being restored to my friends, in improved condition
and health. I have not heard one word from home in six months; my
anxiety can better be imagined than expressed. I can only hope they are
alive. By observation at 12 M., we are 420 miles from Kingston, the only
port we shall make on our passage home.

28th. Still a strong wind and heavy sea. We are running under fore sails
and fore staysail. By observation at 12 M., we had run 174 miles in
twenty-four hours.

29th. Still a heavy sea on, and a stiff breeze. We are under a full
press of canvas, running eight knots. 11 A.M., in sight of land. We soon
make the highlands, and are running for Port Royal. We have a pilot
already on board, he having accompanied our steamer to Chagres. Port
Royal is situated on a low island in the mouth of a small bay, upon the
head of which Kingston is situated. We passed an armed brig, a
steamer-of-war, seventy-four gun ship, revenue-cutter, all displaying
the red cross of St. George. A four-oared boat comes off towards us; our
wheels are turned back, and we are boarded by an officer in full
uniform. After the usual inspection, our wheels again revolved, and we
moved on up the bay, or river, in the direction of Kingston. After
running a mile, the above-mentioned officer is astonished at learning
that our steamer is _under weigh_; he came forward and wished to be put
on shore--stupid fellow. We are standing inland, with high mountains on
our right, capped with clouds. We now pass fortifications, and bearing
to the right; our pilot sings out “steady!” we are now within full view
of Kingston, and heading directly for the town; “steady!” “port!”
steamer falls off, bringing the town on our larboard bow--“_hard a
port!_” on we steam--“steady!” We are now passing a large fortification;
we see houses nestling in orange groves on the side of the mountain. The
town is so densely shaded with cocoa-nut and other tropical trees, that
it is barely visible. We are drawing very near, the inhabitants are
crowding to the shore. Our pilot sings out, “let go the anchor,” the
wheels are reversed, and we are warping around to the dock, which is
crowded with natives as black as Erebus. Our plank is soon out, and our
steamer belches forth her cargo of Californians, who, in profusion of
beard and hideousness of aspect, would, no doubt, have compared
favorably with those earlier adventurers under Columbus, who had the
honor of landing here in advance of us. We found the inhabitants
extremely attentive, particularly those who had goods to sell, and they
were principally Jews. We were followed by these insinuating
individuals, and kindly informed that by going a half mile we could buy
anything we wanted. We were at a loss to know whether we were really in
want, but were very kindly informed that we were in want of everything.
Oh! Chatham street, how thou hast been defamed! Certainly, Kingston
instead of Chatham street, is the Jewdom of the world.

I had a note of introduction from Mr. Moreau, whom I met at Gorgona, to
his family at Kingston. I am not prepared to say that I was in a
presentable condition. As near as memory serves me, I had on a gay
colored “poncho,” a slouched hat and long boots, saying nothing about
the whiskers and moustache. I found an accomplished daughter, who was a
good English scholar and fine pianist, and a mother who spoke nothing
but French. My stay was short, but under other circumstances I should
have wished a prolongation.

Many of the passengers visited General Santa Anna, whose villa was one
mile from Kingston. He was living in great splendor, and was found
extremely affable, speaking the English language fluently. Kingston is a
town of considerable extent, the streets running at right angles,
well-shaded; numerous churches and schools; the buildings generally of
brick, built low to prevent disasters from hurricanes. The inhabitants
are generally instructed in the rudiments of an English education, and
are quite intelligent, but all complain of poverty. The island produces
fruit in abundance, it hardly commands a price, excepting on the arrival
of a steamer, when it is higher than in almost any market in the world.
The natives have taken valuable lessons from the Jews, and appear to
have acquired _their_ peculiar business habits with the greatest
facility. One of them

had a quantity of shells, for which he demanded $25, but immediately
fell $20, and I think would have taken two.

During the afternoon the Cherokee came in and commenced coaling up. This
delicate duty is performed by the colored girls of the place, and the
_modus operandi_ is as novel as it is laborious. Some fifty girls are
engaged, each with a vessel resembling a half barrel, holding sixty
pounds of coal; this, when filled, is placed upon the head and carried
up the gang-plank to the deck. As laborious as this duty may seem, it is
performed with the greatest alacrity, accompanied by songs, dancing, and
peals of laughter. (See Plate). The _belle_ of the party, luxuriating in
the name of “Flouncy,” is seen on the deck, dressed in a pink muslin,
flounced almost to the waist. She is in the act of taking one of those
extraordinary steps for which the colored population are justly
celebrated. The mate seems to have taken in charge a small specimen of
humanity who pertinaciously insists upon coming on board to sell
parrots. He is now receiving a “dose of sprouts,” and will go off, no
doubt, with a pair of stogys vividly impressed upon his imagination. A
colored gentleman is seen laying against the wheel house counting the
tubs as they are borne along by the “Bloomer”-clad girls; near him
stands an individual who looks very like a returning Californian. A
party of ladies and gentlemen are promenading the upper deck. Cocoa-nut
trees with fruit are seen, with a range of mountains in the background.
Boats with fruit, cactus, shells, parrots, &c., are being rowed about to
tempt the passengers.

[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH OF G. W. LEWIS 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
COALEING UP
_KINGSTON, JAMAICA_.]




Chapter Thirty-fourth.

     OUR WHEELS REVOLVE--THE NATIVES OF THE ISLAND EXTINCT--THE WRONGS
     THEY HAVE SUFFERED--THE ISLAND ONCE A PARADISE--SAN DOMINGO, HER
     MOUNTAINS--CUBA--A SHOWER BATH GRATIS--“SAIL HO!”--CAYCUS ISLAND
     AND PASSAGE--TURTLE FOR DINNER--A SERMON--GALLANT CONDUCT OF OUR
     STEAMER--WE SHIP A SEA--A SPANISH VESSEL IN DISTRESS--OUR TILLER
     CHAINS GIVE WAY--A KNIFE AND FORK IN SEARCH OF MINCE PIES--GULF
     STREAM--WATER-SPOUTS--“LIGHT SHIP”--SANDY HOOK--ANXIETY--SIGHT OF
     NEW YORK--FEELINGS AND CONDITION OF THE PASSENGERS--A SAD
     FATE--AGROUND--A NEW PILOT--AGAIN UNDER WEIGH--NEAR THE DOCK--A
     DEATH--MAN OVERBOARD--MAKE FAST--AT HOME--ONE WORD TO THOSE ABOUT
     TO EMBARK.


Jan. 30th. We finish taking in provisions, coal, and water, and at 1
P.M., let go our hawser, our wheels revolve, and we are again under
weigh, heading out to sea. We take a hearty dinner while yet in the bay,
but there is a tremendous sea outside, and many will be obliged to pay
tribute to Neptune. This is a delightful island, but it is changed from
the paradise Columbus found it. Of the once happy, but now grossly
abused natives, I saw but two, and am told they are almost extinct. What
a sad commentary upon the law that “might makes right.” What tenure
could have been more perfect than that by which the native held this
island. It was bequeathed to their forefathers by the Creator, and
transmitted from father to son; but a stranger visited them, and they
mistook him for a messenger from the Great Spirit, a visitor from the
clouds. They worshipped the stranger, invited him to their groves and
pleasure grounds, and gave him bread and wine. But alas! they have
embraced the viper. The stranger taking advantage of the confidence
they, in their simplicity, reposed, smites them with a ruthless hand,
and hunts them down like wild beasts, until the last son, goaded to
desperation, severs the cord of life and goes to meet the spirit of his
fathers on the great “hunting ground.” The nation sinks into oblivion,
while that of their ruthless invader is emblazoned upon every tablet,
and the leader in this act of infamy sleeps in triumph under an imposing
cenotaph. Why does the sympathy of nations sleep while there still
exists a remnant of this truly noble, but down-trodden people. As we
reach the ocean we take a more easterly course, and are brought in full
view of the light-house, which is on the extreme point of the island; we
pass this point at 9 P.M., when we take a more northerly course, and
stand directly for Cuba and the Caycus passage, designing to make, also,
the western point of Hispaniola. We have a severe gale, but our steamer
rides it out most gallantly.

31st. (Morning). We are in sight of Hispaniola, Hayti, or San Domingo,
by all of which names it has been known at different times; her
mountains looming up several thousand feet above the horizon. The sea is
calm, our run pleasant; Cuba now appears off our larboard bow, about
forty miles distant. It is indicated by heavy clouds, at the base of
which, or just above the horizon, is seen the dark outline of her
mountains. The mountains within the tropics are universally capped with
clouds, which, in floating over, are caught by the peaks, and there
waste away, the diminution supplied by the condensation of vapor, or the
addition of other clouds. During the evening, a heavy sea broke against
the side of the steamer, bursting our port fastening, and shooting a
column of water eight inches in diameter, directly into the berth of my
room-mate. It will readily be imagined that he awoke. We have just
passed point St. Nicholas, the northwest point of St. Domingo, and point
Mayxi, the most easterly point of Cuba.

Feb. 1st. A ship is seen, “hull down,” off our larboard quarter; no land
in sight, a heavy sea, and we are standing directly for the Caycus
Islands, which we shall make about sunset.

2nd. We have made the Caycus passage, left the Caribbean Sea, and are
now in the Atlantic, heading north by west, making a direct course for
New York. We cross the tropic of Cancer at a quarter to 9 A.M. We have
now nothing to do but promenade, sit in our state-rooms, and read, eat,
sleep, and think of home. We have about 300 passengers on board. We have
live sheep, poultry in abundance, and some twenty huge turtles, weighing
from two to three hundred pounds each, some of each falling daily
victims to our voracious appetites. One little turtle which looked as
though he had been taken from his native island, much against his will,
was thrust into a barrel, and there compelled to lay on his back. As I
passed, I thought he eyed me with solicitation, and I requested one of
the firemen to turn him over. This he did, much to the poor creature’s
apparent satisfaction. I relieved his pangs for the moment, and shall
probably help devour him for dinner. Mr. Foster and myself had supplied
ourselves liberally with oranges, pine-apples, limes, “forbidden fruit,”
bananas, &c., and spent much of our time in feasting. According to
observation at 12 M., we were 920 miles from New York; we have made, in
twenty-four hours, 214 miles, and are now under a full press of canvas.

3rd. (Sunday). We have a sermon by an English clergyman, from Kingston.
By observation at 12 M., we had made 234 miles in twenty-four hours. We
have a strong wind, and very heavy sea; boxes and barrels are running
foot races on deck, it rains in torrents, hatches are closed down, but
our ship rides gallantly. She rises manfully from the strife, shakes off
the spray, and again leaps upon her antagonist.

4th. Stormy unpleasant day. We are now off the coast of the Carolinas,
in the gulf-stream. The wind blows cold off the land, reminding us of
winter. Three days ago we were picking oranges and limes, the
thermometer at 105°. Oh! anthracite coal! I most earnestly implore thy
protection. While at dinner, we shipped a sea, which burst through the
windows, putting out the lights, carrying every dish from the table, and
saturating the entire company. The captain who, with a party of ladies,
was sitting at the head of the table, claimed the most liberal
instalment. At half past 2 P.M., a vessel appears, and bears down for
us, running before the wind. She proves a Spanish bark; her rudder has
been carried away, a spar is lashed on in its place, by which they are
trying to manage her. She has up a foresail and spanker, and hoists a
signal of distress. It is blowing a gale, raining in torrents, and the
sea running mountain high. Our quarter boats could not live an instant,
rendering it impossible to assist them. As they passed near us, we saw
two men on the foretop-gallant yard. At 6 P.M., our tiller chains gave
way, the steamer is thrown around into the troughs, and rolls so that
it is impossible to keep footing on deck. The table, which has just been
spread for supper, is swept of every dish: the cold beef chases the
vegetables around the saloon, as if death could not dissipate the force
of habit; the mustard and vinegar cruets, impelled by the same instinct,
gave chase to the beef, and after a protracted run, brought up at my
state-room door, _entirely exhausted_. The most amusing trial of speed
took place between a knife and fork and a mince-pie; the latter lost its
cap, or I think it would have won the race. Our chains are soon
repaired, and we head on our course. It is dark, and we see nothing more
of the last sail; wine circulates freely; our steamer seems intoxicated,
and many of her passengers are _down_ with the same complaint.

5th. Cold unpleasant morning; a heavy sea on. The wind blowing against
the current of the gulf-stream, causes a spray, which rises in columns
and seems to congeal in the air. We are in close proximity to several
water-spouts, seeming the connecting links between the ocean and the
clouds. We are under twenty-one inches of steam, but no canvas, the wind
having been dead ahead for the past two days.

6th. Clear and cold; five sails in sight; ocean as smooth as a mirror.
We fall in with a Delaware pilot, who reports us one hundred miles from
New York. An exclamation of joy burst from the passengers, who are now
all on deck. At 9 A.M., we saw the smoke of a steamer off our larboard
quarter; ten sail in sight; the ocean presents a most sublime spectacle,
not a breath disturbs its repose; as if jaded by prolonged agitation, it
has relapsed into a quiet slumber. We are in sight of the light-ship off
Delaware Bay; a pilot comes on board; Sandy Hook is in sight; the Jersey
shore stretching away to the left, but just seen above the horizon. We
passed Sandy Hook light-house, twenty-five miles from New York, at 7
P.M. As night draws her curtain round, we see looming up from the
horizon, directly in our course, a halo of light, indicating the
locality of the city. All are prepared to land, each, for the time
being, absorbed in his own thoughts. What a diversity; the countenance
of each portraying in vivid colors the hopes and fears within. Here,
seated by one of the main pipes, is an emaciated form, clothed in rags;
the head is reclining on the hand, the eye sunken, the visage ghastly,
and now the whole frame writhes under a most distressing cough. A few
short months have done their work. One year ago, a stalwart, robust,
enterprising man, full of life and enthusiasm, left his wife and
children to seek his fortune in a distant land. He reached his
destination, and struggled hard, his prospects alternating between hope
and fear; still he struggled on until at last he discovered that some
lurking disease was undermining his constitution. The approach was
gradual, but it did its work. The victim borrowed money and sailed for
home. He is before me. He is destined to clasp to his bosom, once more,
his wife and children, but in one short week is borne to a neighboring
church yard.

This is the history and fate of more than one of our passengers; we,
however, have many on board who are returning with robust constitutions
and well-filled purses. Their countenances are lighted up with the fond
anticipation of soon being restored to those whose greeting smile and
warm embrace will heal the laceration of the past.

The excitement runs high; there is a prospect of reaching our dock by 10
o’clock. As we approach the Narrows, our steamer suddenly slackens her
pace, and we hear a cry of “aground.” Our pilot has run us upon the
shoals of Coney Island; the wheels are reversed, but we are fast; the
lead is thrown with a cry of “_three fathoms_ o’ the deep ho!” We can
plainly see the light of the city looming up from the horizon, but the
chances are against us. A new pilot comes on board, who points out the
channel; our wheels are reversed, our tiller put hard down, and after
several efforts, we are afloat, with the loss of part of our keel. As we
pass through the Narrows, our pilot hands us the morning papers,
containing a detail of the Hague street disaster. The city is now in
sight, and we are steaming along with lightning speed; anxiety most
intense. We near our pier, which we find much obstructed by ice; small
boats attempt to come off for our hawser, but we are obliged to steam
over toward Jersey City and come up again; this time we succeed, and as
we are nearing the dock, the death of one of the passengers is
announced. He was the _last_ of a party of six that had embarked for,
and I believe the only one of the party who lived to reach California.
He lost his health soon after his arrival there, and died upon reaching
his native shore.

As the steamer was being warped around, a passenger in attempting to
jump to the pier, missed it, and fell through the mass of floating ice
below. He soon gained the surface, but, uttering the most heart-rending
screams, again disappeared. He was eventually rescued, and I jumped for
the pier with better success, and stepping into a hack, was rapidly
driven in the direction of Broadway. It is now midnight. Thirteen months
have elapsed since I left, and for the last six, I have not had the
least intelligence from home. My feelings can better be imagined than
described, as I pulled the bell at No. 3 Warren street.

       *       *       *       *       *

One word to those about to embark for California. Take the least
possible amount of baggage, in a trunk of the smallest possible size. As
no one can anticipate the circumstances under which they may be placed
there, nor the wants of a life in California; it is recommended to buy
_nothing_ here, as purchases can be made _much more judiciously_ in San
Francisco, and other towns in California, and at about as fair rates, at
the same time saving the trouble and expense of transportation. The
transit charges, by the Nicaragua route, are fifteen cents per pound;
this is _invariably_ extra, even if one has a transit passage-ticket,
which are issued at a charge of about $25. A limited amount of baggage
is taken down the Atlantic and up the Pacific free, but _not_ across.
Passengers taking the Panama route, are now landed at Aspinwall (Navy
Bay), thence by railroad to Miller’s Station, saving thirty miles of
river travel; thence in a row-boat to Gorgona, where mules are stationed
in abundance to transport to Panama, twenty-five miles distant.
Passengers are landed on the dock at Aspinwall, free of charge, the
transit charges being about the same as by the Nicaragua route.




Constitution of the State of California.


PROCLAMATION TO THE PEOPLE OF CALIFORNIA.

The delegates of the people, assembled in Convention, have formed a
Constitution, which is now presented for your ratification. The time and
manner of voting on this Constitution, and of holding the first general
election, are clearly set forth in the schedule. The whole subject is,
therefore, left for your unbiassed and deliberate consideration.

The Prefect (or person exercising the functions of that office) of each
district, will designate the places for opening the polls, and give due
notice of the election, in accordance with the provisions of the
Constitution and schedule.

The people are now called upon to form a government for themselves, and
to designate such officers as they desire, to make and execute the laws.
That their choice may be wisely made, and that the government so
organized may secure the permanent welfare and happiness of the people
of the new State, is the sincere and earnest wish of the present
Executive, who, if the Constitution be ratified, will, with pleasure,
surrender his powers to whomsoever the people may designate as his
successor.

Given at Monterey, California, this 12th day of October, A. D., 1849.

         (Signed)                                   B. RILEY,
      Brevet Brig. General, U. S. A., and Governor of California.
      (Official)                                   H. W. HALLECK,
                Brevet Captain and Secretary of State.

       *       *       *       *       *

_We, the People of California, grateful to Almighty God for our freedom,
in order to secure its blessings, do establish this Constitution_:


ARTICLE I.

DECLARATION OF RIGHTS.

SEC. 1. All men are by nature free and independent, and have certain
inalienable rights, among which are those of enjoying and defending life
and liberty, acquiring, possessing, and protecting property, and
pursuing and obtaining safety and happiness.

SEC. 2. All political power is inherent in the people. Government is
instituted for the protection, security, and benefit of the people; and
they have the right to alter or reform the same, whenever the public
good may require it.

SEC. 3. The right of trial by jury shall be secured to all, and remain
inviolate forever; but a jury trial may be waived by the parties, in
all civil cases, in the manner to be prescribed by law.

SEC. 4. The free exercise and enjoyment of religious profession and
worship, without discrimination or preference, shall forever be allowed
in this State; and no person shall be rendered incompetent to be a
witness on account of his opinions on matters of religious belief; but
the liberty of conscience, hereby secured, shall not be so construed as
to excuse acts of licentiousness, or justify practices inconsistent with
the peace or safety of this State.

SEC. 5. The privilege of the writ of _habeas corpus_ shall not be
suspended, unless when, in cases of rebellion or invasion, the public
safety may require its suspension.

SEC. 6. Excessive bail shall not be required, nor excessive fines
imposed, nor shall cruel or unusual punishments be inflicted, nor shall
witnesses be unreasonably detained.

SEC. 7. All persons shall be bailable by sufficient sureties: unless for
capital offences, when the proof is evident, or the presumption great.

SEC. 8. No person shall be held to answer for a capital or otherwise
infamous crime (except in cases of impeachment, and in cases of militia
when in actual service, and the land and naval forces in time of war, or
which this State may keep with the consent of Congress in time of peace,
and in cases of petit larceny under the regulation of the Legislature,)
unless on presentment or indictment of a grand jury; and in any trial in
any court whatever, the party accused shall be allowed to appear and
defend in person and with counsel, as in civil actions. No person shall
be subject to be twice put in jeopardy for the same offence; nor shall
he be compelled, in any criminal case, to be a witness against himself,
nor be deprived of life, liberty, or property, without due process of
law; nor shall private property be taken for public use without just
compensation.

SEC. 9. Every citizen may freely speak, write, and publish his
sentiments on all subjects, being responsible for the abuse of that
right; and no law shall be passed to restrain or abridge the liberty of
speech or of the press. In all criminal prosecutions on indictments for
libels, the truth may be given in evidence to the jury; and if it shall
appear to the jury that the matter charged as libellous is true, and was
published with good motives and for justifiable ends, the party shall be
acquitted: and the jury shall have the right to determine the law and
the fact.

SEC. 10. The people shall have the right freely to assemble together, to
consult for the common good, to instruct their representatives, and to
petition the legislature for redress of grievances.

SEC. 11. All laws of a general nature shall have a uniform operation.

SEC. 12. The military shall be subordinate to the civil power. No
standing army shall be kept up by this State in time of peace; and in
time of war no appropriation for a standing army shall be for a longer
time than two years.

SEC. 13. No soldier shall, in time of peace, be quartered in any house,
without the consent of the owner; nor in time of war, except in the
manner to be prescribed by law.

SEC. 14. Representation shall be apportioned according to population.

SEC. 15. No person shall be imprisoned for debt, in any civil action on
_mesne_ or final process, unless in cases of fraud; and no person shall
be imprisoned for a militia fine in time of peace.

SEC. 16. No bill of attainder, _ex post facto_ law, or law impairing the
obligation of contracts, shall ever be passed.

SEC. 17. Foreigners who are, or who may hereafter become, _bona fide_
residents of this State, shall enjoy the same rights in respect to the
possession, enjoyment and inheritance of property, as native born
citizens.

SEC. 18. _Neither slavery, nor involuntary servitude, unless for the
punishment of crimes, shall ever be tolerated in this State._

SEC. 19. The right of the people to be secure in their persons, houses,
papers, and effects, against unreasonable seizures and searches, shall
not be violated; and no warrant shall issue but on probable cause,
supported by oath or affirmation, particularly describing the place to
be searched, and the persons and things to be seized.

SEC. 20. Treason against the State shall consist only in levying war
against it, adhering to its enemies, or giving them aid and comfort. No
person shall be convicted of treason, unless on the evidence of two
witnesses to the same overt act, or confession in open court.

SEC. 21. This enumeration of rights shall not be construed to impair or
deny others retained by the people.


ARTICLE II.

RIGHT OF SUFFRAGE.

SEC. 1. Every white male citizen of the United States, and every white
male citizen of Mexico, who shall have elected to become a citizen of
the United States, under the treaty of peace exchanged and ratified at
Queretaro, on the 30th day of May, 1848, of the age of twenty-one years,
who shall have been a resident of the State six months next preceding
the election, and the county or district in which he claims his vote
thirty days, shall be entitled to vote at all elections which are now or
hereafter may be authorized by law: Provided, that nothing herein
contained shall be construed to prevent the Legislature, by a two-thirds
concurrent vote, from admitting to the right of suffrage, Indians or the
descendants of Indians, in such special cases as such a proportion of
the legislative body may deem just and proper.

SEC. 2. Electors shall, on all cases except treason, felony, or breach
of the peace, be privileged from arrest on the days of the election,
during their attendance at such election, going to and returning
therefrom.

SEC. 3. No elector shall be obliged to perform militia duty on the day
of election, except in time of war or public danger.

SEC. 4. For the purpose of voting, no person shall be deemed to have
gained or lost a residence by reason of his presence or absence while
employed in the service of the United States; nor while engaged in the
navigation of the waters of this State, or of the United States, or of
the high seas; nor while a student of any seminary of learning; nor
while kept at any almshouse, or other asylum, at public expense; nor
while confined in any public prison.

SEC. 5. No idiot or insane person, or person convicted of any infamous
crime, shall be entitled to the privileges of an elector.

SEC. 6. All elections by the people shall be by ballot.


ARTICLE III.

DISTRIBUTION OF POWERS.

The powers of the government of the State of California shall be divided
into three separate departments: the Legislature, the Executive, and
Judicial; and no person charged with the exercise of powers properly
belonging to one of these departments, shall exercise any functions
appertaining to either of the others; except in the cases hereinafter
expressly directed or permitted.


ARTICLE IV.

LEGISLATIVE DEPARTMENT.

SEC. 1. The legislative power of this State shall be vested in a Senate
and Assembly, which shall be designated the Legislature of the State of
California, and the enacting clause of every law shall be as follows:
“The people of the State of California, represented in Senate and
Assembly, do enact as follows.”

SEC. 2. The sessions of the Legislature shall be annual, and shall
commence on the first Monday of January, next ensuing the election of
its members; unless the Governor of the State shall, in the interim,
convene the Legislature by proclamation.

SEC. 3. The members of the Assembly shall be chosen annually, by the
qualified electors of their respective districts, on the Tuesday next
after the first Monday in November, unless otherwise ordered by the
Legislature, and their term of office shall be one year.

SEC. 4. Senators and members of Assembly shall be duly qualified
electors in the respective counties and districts which they represent.

SEC. 5. Senators shall be chosen for the term of two years, at the same
time and places as members of Assembly; and no person shall be a member
of the Senate or Assembly, who has not been a citizen and inhabitant of
the State one year, and of the county or district for which he shall be
chosen, six months next before his election.

SEC. 6. The number of Senators shall not be less than one-third, nor
more than one-half of that of the members of Assembly; and at the first
session of the Legislature after this Constitution takes effect, the
Senators shall be divided by lot as equally as may be, into two classes;
the seats of the Senators of the first class shall be vacated at the
expiration of the first year, so that one-half shall be chosen annually.

SEC. 7. When the number of Senators is increased, they shall be
apportioned by lot, so as to keep the two classes as nearly equal in
number as possible.

SEC. 8. Each house shall choose its own officers, and judge of the
qualifications, elections, and returns of its own members.

SEC. 9. A majority of each house shall constitute a quorum to do
business; but a smaller number may adjourn from day to day, and may
compel the attendance of absent members, in such manner, and under such
penalties as each house may provide.

SEC. 10. Each house shall determine the rules of its own proceedings,
and may with the concurrence of two-thirds of all the members elected,
expel a member.

SEC. 11. Each house shall keep a journal of its own proceedings, and
publish the same; and the yeas and nays of the members of either house,
on any question, shall, at the desire of any three members present, be
entered on the journal.

SEC. 12. Members of the Legislature shall, in all cases except treason,
felony, and breach of the peace, be privileged from arrest, and they
shall not be subject to any civil process during the session of the
Legislature, nor for fifteen days next before the commencement and after
the termination of each session.

SEC. 13. When vacancies occur in either house, the Governor, or the
person exercising the functions of the Governor, shall issue writs of
election to fill such vacancies.

SEC. 14. The doors of each house shall be open, except on such occasions
as in the opinion of the house may require secrecy.

SEC. 15. Neither house shall, without the consent of the other, adjourn
for more than three days, nor to any other place than that in which they
may be sitting.

SEC. 16. Any bill may originate in either house of the Legislature, and
all bills passed by one house may be amended in the other.

SEC. 17. Every bill which may have passed the Legislature, shall, before
it becomes a law, be presented to the Governor. If he approve it, he
shall sign it; but if not, he shall return it, with his objections, to
the house in which it originated, which shall enter the same upon the
journal, and proceed to reconsider it. If, after such reconsideration,
it again pass both houses, by yeas and nays, by a majority of two-thirds
of the members of each house present, it shall become a law,
notwithstanding the Governor’s objections. If any bill shall not be
returned within ten days after it shall have been presented to him,
(Sunday excepted,) the same shall be a law, in like manner as if he had
signed it, unless the Legislature, by adjournment, prevent such return.

SEC. 18. The Assembly shall have the sole power of impeachment; and all
impeachments shall be tried by the Senate. When sitting for that
purpose, the Senators shall be upon oath or affirmation; and no person
shall be convicted without the concurrence of two-thirds of the members
present.

SEC. 19. The Governor, Lieutenant Governor, Secretary of State,
Comptroller, Treasurer, Attorney General, Surveyor General, Justices of
the Supreme Court and Judges of the District Courts, shall be liable to
impeachment for any misdemeanor in office; but judgment in such cases
shall extend only to removal from office, and disqualification to hold
any office of honor, trust, or profit, under the State; but the party
convicted, or acquitted, shall nevertheless be liable to indictment,
trial and punishment, according to law. All other civil officers shall
be tried for misdemeanors in office, in such manner as the Legislature
may provide.

SEC. 20. No Senator or member of Assembly shall, during the term for
which he shall have been elected, be appointed to any civil office of
profit, under this State, which shall have been created, or the
emoluments of which shall have been increased, during such term, except
such office as may be filled by elections by the people.

SEC. 21. No person holding any lucrative office under the United States,
or any other power, shall be eligible to any civil office of profit,
under this State; provided, that officers in the militia, to which there
is attached no annual salary, or local officers and postmasters whose
compensation does not exceed five hundred dollars per annum, shall not
be deemed lucrative.

SEC. 22. No person who shall be convicted of the embezzlement or
defalcation of the public funds of this State, shall ever be eligible to
any office of honor, trust, or profit, under the State; and the
Legislature shall, as soon as practicable, pass a law providing for the
punishment of such embezzlement, or defalcation, as a felony.

SEC. 23. No money shall be drawn from the Treasury but in consequence of
appropriations made by law. An accurate statement of the receipts and
expenditures of the public moneys shall be attached to, and published
with, the laws, at every regular session of the Legislature.

SEC. 24. The members of the Legislature shall receive for their
services, a compensation to be fixed by law, and paid out of the public
treasury; but no increase of the compensation shall take effect during
the term for which the members of either house shall have been elected.

SEC. 25. Every law enacted by the Legislature, shall embrace but one
object, and that shall be expressed in the title: and no law shall be
revised, or amended, by reference to its title; but in such case, the
act revised, or section amended, shall be re-enacted and published at
length.

SEC. 26. No divorce shall be granted by the Legislature.

SEC. 27. No lottery shall be authorized by this State, nor shall the
sale of lottery tickets be allowed.

SEC. 28. The enumeration of the inhabitants of this State shall be
taken, under the direction of the Legislature, in the year one thousand
eight hundred and fifty-two, and one thousand eight hundred and
fifty-five, and at the end of every ten years thereafter; and these
enumerations, together with the census that may be taken, under the
direction of the Congress of the United States, in the year one thousand
eight hundred and fifty, and every subsequent ten years, shall serve as
the basis of representation in both houses of the Legislature.

SEC. 29. The number of Senators and members of Assembly, shall, at the
first session of the Legislature, holden after the enumerations herein
provided for are made, be fixed by the Legislature, and apportioned
among the several counties and districts to be established by law,
according to the number of white inhabitants. The number of members of
Assembly shall not be less than twenty-four, nor more than thirty-six,
until the number of inhabitants within this State shall amount to one
hundred thousand; and after that period, at such ratio that the whole
number of members of Assembly shall never be less than thirty, nor more
than eighty.

SEC. 30. When a congressional, senatorial, or assembly district, shall
be composed of two or more counties, it shall not be separated by any
county belonging to another district; and no county shall be divided, in
forming a congressional, senatorial, or assembly district.

SEC. 31. Corporations may be formed under general laws, but shall not be
created by special act, except for municipal purposes. All general laws
and special acts passed pursuant to this section may be altered from
time to time, or repealed.

SEC. 32. Dues from corporations shall be secured by such individual
liability of the corporators, and other means, as may be prescribed by
law.

SEC. 33. The term corporations, as used in this article, shall be
construed to include all associations and joint-stock companies, having
any of the powers or privileges of corporations not possessed by
individuals or partnerships. And all corporations shall have the right
to sue, and shall be subject to be sued, in all courts, in like cases as
natural persons.

SEC. 34. The Legislature shall have no power to pass any act granting
any charter for banking purposes; but associations may be formed under
general laws, for the deposit of gold and silver; but no such
association shall make, issue, or put in circulation, any bill, check,
tickets, certificate, promissory note, or other paper, or the paper of
any bank, to circulate as money.

SEC. 35. The Legislature of this State shall prohibit, by law, any
person or persons, association, company, or corporation, from exercising
the privileges of banking, or creating paper to circulate as money.

SEC. 36. Each stockholder of a corporation, or joint-stock association,
shall be individually and personally liable for his proportion of all
its debts and liabilities.

SEC. 37. It shall be the duty of the Legislature to provide for the
organization of cities and incorporated villages, and to restrict their
power of taxation, assessment, borrowing money, contracting debts, and
loaning their credit, so as to prevent abuses in assessments, and in
contracting debts by such municipal corporations.

SEC. 38. In all elections by the Legislature, the members thereof shall
vote _viva voce_, and the votes shall be entered on the journal.


ARTICLE V.

EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENT.

SEC. 1. The supreme executive power of this State shall be vested in a
chief magistrate, who shall be styled the Governor of the State of
California.

SEC. 2. The Governor shall be elected by the qualified electors, at the
time and places of voting for members of Assembly, and shall hold his
office two years from the time of his installation, and until his
successor shall be qualified.

SEC. 3. No person shall be eligible to the office of Governor, (except
at the first election,) who has not been a citizen of the United States
and a resident of this State two years next preceding the election, and
attained the age of twenty-five years at the time of said election.

SEC. 4. The returns of every election for Governor shall be sealed up
and transmitted to the seat of government, directed to the Speaker of
the Assembly, who shall, during the first week of the session, open and
publish them in presence of both houses of the legislature. The person
having the highest number of votes shall be Governor; but in case any
two or more have an equal and the highest number of votes, the
Legislature shall, by joint-vote of both houses, choose one of said
persons, so having an equal and the highest number of votes, for
Governor.

SEC. 5. The Governor shall be commander-in-chief of the militia, the
army, and navy, of this State.

SEC. 6. He shall transact all executive business with the officers of
government, civil and military, and may require information in writing
from the officers of the executive department, upon any subject relating
to the duties of the respective offices.

SEC. 7. He shall see that the laws are faithfully executed.

SEC. 8. When any office shall, from any cause become vacant, and no mode
is provided by the constitution and laws for filling such vacancy, the
Governor shall have power to fill such vacancy by granting a commission,
which shall expire at the end of the next session of the Legislature, or
at the next election by the people.

SEC. 9. He may, on extraordinary occasions, convene the Legislature by
proclamation, and shall state to both houses, when assembled, the
purpose for which they shall have been convened.

SEC. 10. He shall communicate by message to the Legislature, at every
session, the condition of the State, and recommend such matters as he
shall deem expedient.

SEC. 11. In case of a disagreement between the two houses, with respect
to the time of adjournment, the Governor shall have power to adjourn the
Legislature to such time as he may think proper; Provided it be not
beyond the time fixed for the meeting of the next Legislature.

SEC. 12. No person shall, while holding any office under the United
States, or this State, exercise the office of Governor, except as
hereinafter expressly provided.

SEC. 13. The Governor shall have the power to grant reprieves and
pardons, after conviction, for all offences except treason, and cases of
impeachment, upon such conditions, and with such restrictions and
limitations, as he may think proper, subject to such regulations as may
be provided by law relative to the manner of applying for pardons. Upon
conviction for treason he shall have the power to suspend the execution
of the sentence until the case shall be reported to the Legislature at
its next meeting, when the Legislature shall either pardon, direct the
execution of the sentence, or grant a further reprieve. He shall
communicate to the Legislature, at the beginning of every session, every
case of reprieve, or pardon granted, stating the name of the convict,
the crime of which he was convicted, the sentence and its date, and the
date of the pardon or reprieve.

SEC. 14. There shall be a seal of this State, which shall be kept by the
Governor, and used by him officially, and it shall be called “The great
seal of the State of California.”

SEC. 15. All grants and commissions shall be in the name and by the
authority of the people of the State of California, sealed with the
great seal of the State, signed by the Governor, and countersigned by
the Secretary of State.

SEC. 16. A Lieutenant Governor shall be elected at the same time and
place, and in the same manner as the Governor; and his term of office,
and his qualifications of eligibility, shall also be the same. He shall
be President of the Senate, but shall only have a casting vote therein.
If, during a vacancy of the office of Governor, the Lieutenant Governor
shall be impeached, displaced, resign, die, or become incapable of
performing the duties of his office, or be absent from the State, the
President of the Senate shall act as Governor, until the vacancy be
filled, or the disability shall cease.

SEC. 17. In case of the impeachment of the Governor, or his removal from
office, death, inability to discharge the powers and duties of the said
office, resignation or absence from the State, the powers and duties of
the office shall devolve upon the Lieutenant Governor for the residue of
the term, or until the disability shall cease. But when the Governor
shall, with the consent of the Legislature, be out of the State in time
of war, at the head of any military force thereof, he shall continue
commander-in-chief of all the military force of the State.

SEC. 18. A Secretary of State, a Comptroller, a Treasurer, an Attorney
General and Surveyor General, shall be chosen in the manner provided in
this Constitution; and the term of office, and eligibility of each,
shall be the same as are prescribed for the Governor and Lieutenant
Governor.

SEC. 19. The Secretary of State shall be appointed by the Governor, by
and with the advice and consent of the Senate. He shall keep a fair
record of the official acts of the Legislative and Executive Departments
of the government; and shall, when required, lay the same, and all
matters relative thereto, before either branch of the Legislature: and
shall perform such other duties as shall be assigned him by law.

SEC. 20. The Comptroller, Treasurer, Attorney General and Surveyor
General, shall be chosen by joint vote of the two houses of the
Legislature, at their first session under this Constitution, and
thereafter shall be elected at the same time and places, and in the same
manner, as the Governor and Lieutenant Governor.

SEC. 21. The Governor, Lieutenant Governor, Secretary of State,
Comptroller, Treasurer, Attorney General, and Surveyor General, shall
each at stated times during their continuance in office, receive for
their services a compensation, which shall not be increased or
diminished during the term for which they shall have been elected; but
neither of these officers shall receive for his own use any fees for the
performance of his official duties.


ARTICLE VI.

JUDICIAL DEPARTMENT.

SEC. 1. The judicial power of this State shall be vested in a Supreme
Court, in District Courts, in County Courts, and in Justices of the
Peace. The Legislature may also establish such municipal and other
inferior courts as may be deemed necessary.

SEC. 2. The Supreme Court shall consist of a Chief Justice, and two
Associate Justices, any two of whom shall constitute a quorum.

SEC. 3. The Justices of the Supreme Court shall be elected at the
general election, by the qualified electors of the State, and shall hold
their office for the term of six years from the first day of January
next after their election; provided that the Legislature shall, at its
first meeting, elect a Chief Justice and two Associate Justices of the
Supreme Court, by joint vote of both houses, and so classify them that
one shall go out of office every two years. After the first election,
the senior Justice in commission shall be the Chief Justice.

SEC. 4. The Supreme Court shall have appellate jurisdiction in all cases
when the matter in dispute exceeds two hundred dollars, when the
legality of any tax, toll, or impost or municipal fine is in question:
and in all criminal cases amounting to felony, or questions of law
alone. And the said court, and each of the Justices thereof, as well as
all district and county judges, shall have power to issue writs of
habeas corpus, at the instance of any person held in actual custody.
They shall also have power to issue all other writs and process
necessary to the exercise of the appellate jurisdiction, and shall be
conservators of the peace throughout the State.

SEC. 5. The State shall be divided by the first Legislature into a
convenient number of districts, subject to such alteration from time to
time as the public good may require; for each of which a district judge
shall be appointed by the joint vote of the legislature, at its first
meeting, who shall hold his office for two years from the first day of
January next after his election; after which, said judges shall be
elected by the qualified electors of their respective districts, at the
general election, and shall hold their office for the term of six years.

SEC. 6. The District Courts shall have original jurisdiction, in law and
equity, in all civil cases where the amount in dispute exceeds two
hundred dollars, exclusive of interest. In all criminal cases not
otherwise provided for, and in all issues of fact joined in the probate
courts, their jurisdiction shall be unlimited.

SEC. 7. The legislature shall provide for the election, by the people,
of a Clerk of the Supreme Court, and County Clerks, District Attorneys,
Sheriffs, Coroners, and other necessary officers; and shall fix by law
their duties and compensation. County Clerks shall be, _ex-officio_,
Clerks of the District Courts in and for their respective counties.

SEC. 8. There shall be elected in each of the organized counties of this
State, one County Judge who shall hold his office for four years. He
shall hold the County Court, and perform the duties of Surrogate, or
Probate Judge. The County Judge, with two Justices of the Peace, to be
designated according to law, shall hold courts of sessions, with such
criminal jurisdiction as the Legislature shall prescribe, and he shall
perform such other duties as shall be required by law.

SEC. 9. The County Courts shall have such jurisdiction, in cases arising
in Justices Courts, and in special cases, as the Legislature may
prescribe, but shall have no original civil jurisdiction, except in such
special cases.

SEC. 10. The times and places of holding the terms of the Supreme Court,
and the general and special terms of the District Courts within the
several districts, shall be provided for by law.

SEC. 11. No judicial officer, except a Justice of the Peace, shall
receive, to his own use, any fees, or perquisites of office.

SEC. 12. The Legislature shall provide for the speedy publication of all
statute laws, and of such judicial decisions as it may deem expedient;
and all laws and judicial decisions shall be free for publication by any
person.

SEC. 13. Tribunals for conciliation may be established, with such powers
and duties as may be prescribed by law; but such tribunals shall have no
power to render judgment to be obligatory on the parties, except they
voluntarily submit their matters in difference, and agree to abide the
judgment, or assent thereto in the presence of such tribunal, in such
cases as shall be prescribed by law.

SEC. 14. The Legislature shall determine the number of Justices of the
Peace, to be elected in each county, city, town, and incorporated
village of the State, and fix by law their powers, duties, and
responsibilities. It shall also determine in what cases appeals may be
made from Justices’ Courts to the County Court.

SEC. 15. The Justices of the Supreme Court, and Judges of the District
Court, shall severally, at stated times during their continuance in
office, receive for their services a compensation, to be paid out of the
treasury, which shall not be increased or diminished during the term for
which they shall have been elected. The county Judges shall also
severally, at stated times, receive for their services a compensation to
be paid out of the county treasury of their respective counties, which
shall not be increased or diminished during the term for which they
shall have been elected.

SEC. 16. The Justices of the Supreme Court and District Judges shall be
ineligible to any other office, during the term for which they shall
have been elected.

SEC. 17. Judges shall not charge juries with respect to matters of fact,
but may state the testimony and declare the law.

SEC. 18. The style of all process shall be “The People of the State of
California;” all the prosecutions shall be conducted in the name and by
the authority of the same.


ARTICLE VII.

MILITIA.

SEC. 1. The legislature shall provide by law, for organizing and
disciplining the militia, in such manner as they shall deem expedient,
not incompatible with the constitution and laws of the United States.

SEC. 2. Officers of the militia shall be elected or appointed, in such
manner as the legislature shall from time to time direct; and shall be
commissioned by the governor.

SEC. 3. The governor shall have power to call forth the militia, to
execute the laws of the State, to suppress insurrections and repel
invasions.


ARTICLE VIII.

STATE DEBTS.

The Legislature shall not in any manner create any debt or debts,
liability or liabilities, which shall singly, or in the aggregate, with
any previous debts or liabilities, exceed the sum of three hundred
thousands dollars, except in case of war, to repel invasion, or suppress
insurrection, unless the same shall be authorized by some law for some
single object or work, to be distinctly specified therein, which law
shall provide ways and means, exclusive of loans, for the payment of the
interest of such debt or liability, as it falls due, and also pay and
discharge the principal of such debt or liability within twenty years
from the time of the contracting thereof, and shall be irrepealable
until the principal and interest thereon shall be paid and discharged;
but no such law shall take effect until, at a general election, it shall
have been submitted to the people, and have received a majority of all
the votes cast for and against it at such election; and all money raised
by authority of such law shall be applied only to the specific object
therein stated, or to the payment of the debt thereby created; and such
law shall be published in at least one newspaper in each judicial
district, if one be published therein, throughout the State, for three
months next preceding the election at which it is submitted to the
people.


ARTICLE IX.

EDUCATION.

SEC. 1. The Legislature shall provide for the election, by the people,
of a Superintendent of Public Instruction, who shall hold his office for
three years, and whose duties shall be prescribed by law, and who shall
receive such compensation as the Legislature may direct.

SEC. 2. The Legislature shall encourage, by all suitable means, the
promotion of intellectual, scientific, moral and agricultural
improvement. The proceeds of all lands that may be granted by the United
States to this State for the support of schools, which may be sold or
disposed of, and the five hundred thousand acres of land granted to the
new States, under an act of Congress distributing the proceeds of the
public lands among the several States of the Union, approved A. D. 1841;
and all estates of deceased persons who may have died without leaving a
will, or heir, and also such per cent. as may be granted by Congress on
the sale of lands in this State, shall be and remain a perpetual fund,
the interest of which, together with all the rents of the unsold lands,
and such other means as the Legislature may provide, shall be
inviolably appropriated to the support of Common Schools throughout the
State.

SEC 3. The Legislature shall provide for a system of Common Schools, by
which a school shall be kept up and supported in each district at least
three months in every year: and any school district neglecting to keep
up and support such a school, may be deprived of its proportion of the
interest of the public fund during such neglect.

SEC. 4. The Legislature shall take measures for the protection,
improvement, or other disposition of such lands as have been, or may
hereafter be, reserved or granted by the United States, or any person or
persons to this State for the use of a University; and the funds
accruing from the rents or sale of such lands, or from any other source,
for the purpose aforesaid, shall be and remain a permanent fund, the
interest of which shall be applied to the support of said university,
with such branches as the public convenience may demand for the
promotion of literature, the arts and sciences, as may be authorized by
the terms of such grant. And it shall be the duty of the Legislature, as
soon as may be, to provide effectual means for the improvement and
permanent security of the funds of said University.


ARTICLE X.

MODE OF AMENDING AND REVISING THE CONSTITUTION.

SEC. 1. Any amendment or amendments to this constitution may be proposed
in the Senate or Assembly; and if the same shall be agreed to by a
majority of the members elected to each of the two houses, such proposed
amendment or amendments shall be entered on their journals, with the
yeas and nays taken thereon, and referred to the Legislature then next
to be chosen, and shall be published for three months next preceding the
time of making such choice. And if, in the Legislature next chosen, as
aforesaid, such proposed amendment or amendments shall be agreed to by a
majority of all the members elected to each house, then it shall be the
duty of the Legislature to submit such proposed amendment or amendments
to the people, in such manner, and at such time, as the Legislature
shall prescribe; and if the people shall approve and ratify such
amendment or amendments, by a majority of the electors qualified to vote
for members of the Legislature voting thereon, such amendment or
amendments shall become part of the Constitution.

SEC. 2. And if, at any time, two-thirds of the Senate and Assembly shall
think it necessary to revise and change this entire Constitution, they
shall recommend to the electors, at the next election for members of the
Legislature, to vote for or against the convention; and if it shall
appear that a majority of the electors voting at such election have
voted in favor of calling a convention, the Legislature shall, at its
next session, provide by law for calling a convention, to be holden
within six months after the passage of such law; and such convention
shall consist of a number of members not less than that of both branches
of the Legislature.


ARTICLE XI.

MISCELLANEOUS PROVISIONS.

SEC. 1. The first session of the Legislature shall be held at the Pueblo
de San Jose, which place shall be the permanent seat of government,
until removed by law; provided, however, that two-thirds of all the
members elected to each house of the Legislature shall concur in the
passage of such law.

SEC. 2. Any citizen of this State who shall, after the adoption of this
constitution, fight a duel with deadly weapons, or send or accept a
challenge to fight a duel with deadly weapons, either within the State
or out of it; or who shall act as second, or knowingly aid or assist in
any manner those thus offending, shall not be allowed to hold any office
of profit, or to enjoy the right of suffrage under this Constitution.

SEC. 3. Members of the Legislature, and all officers, executive and
judicial, except such inferior officers as may be by law exempted,
shall, before they enter on the duties of their respective offices, take
and subscribe the following oath or affirmation.

“I do solemnly swear (or affirm, as the case may be,) that I will
support the Constitution of the United States, and the constitution of
the State of California; and that I will faithfully discharge the duties
of the office of ----, according to the best of my ability.” And no other
oath, declaration, or test, shall be required as a qualification for any
office or public trust.

SEC. 4. The Legislature shall establish a system of county and town
governments, which shall be as nearly uniform as practicable, throughout
the State.

SEC. 5. The Legislature shall have power to provide for the election of
a board of supervisors in each county; and these supervisors shall,
jointly and individually, perform such duties as may be prescribed by
law.

SEC. 6. All officers whose election or appointment is not provided for
by this constitution, and all officers whose offices may hereafter be
created by law, shall be elected by the people, or appointed as the
Legislature may direct.

SEC. 7. When the duration of any office is not provided for by this
constitution, it may be declared by law; and if not so declared, such
office shall be held during the pleasure of the authority making the
appointment; nor shall the duration of any office, not fixed by this
constitution, ever exceed four years.

SEC. 8. The fiscal year shall commence on the first day of July.

SEC. 9. Each county, town, city and incorporated village, shall make
provision for the support of its own officers, subject to such
restrictions and regulations as the Legislature may prescribe.

SEC. 10. The credit of the State shall not in any manner be given or
loaned to, or in aid of, any individual, association or corporation; nor
shall the State, directly or indirectly, become a stockholder in any
association or corporation.

SEC. 11. Suits may be brought against the State, in such manner, and in
such courts, as shall be directed by law.

SEC. 12. No contract of marriage, if otherwise duly made, shall be
invalidated, for want of conformity to the requirements of any religious
sect.

SEC. 13. Taxation shall be equal and uniform throughout the State. All
property, in this State, shall be taxed in proportion to its value, to
be ascertained as directed by law; but assessors and collectors of town,
county and State taxes, shall be elected by the qualified electors of
the district, county or town, in which the property taxed for State,
county or town purposes is situated.

SEC. 14. All property, both real and personal, of the wife, owned or
claimed by her before marriage, and that acquired afterwards by gift,
devise or descent, shall be her separate property; and laws shall be
passed more clearly defining the rights of the wife, in relation as well
to her separate property, as to that held in common with her husband.
Laws shall also be passed providing for the registration of the wife’s
separate property.

SEC. 15. The Legislature shall protect by law, from forced sale, a
certain portion of the homestead and other property of all heads of
families.

SEC. 16. No perpetuities shall be allowed, except for eleemosynary
purposes.

SEC. 17. Every person shall be disqualified from holding any office of
profit in this State, who shall have been convicted of having given or
offered a bribe, to procure his election or appointment.

SEC. 18. Laws shall be made to exclude from office, serving on juries,
and from the right of suffrage, those who shall hereafter be convicted
of bribery, perjury, forgery, or other high crimes. The privilege of
free suffrage shall be supported by laws regulating elections, and
prohibiting, under adequate penalties, all undue influence thereon, from
power, bribery, tumult, or other improper practice.

SEC. 19. Absence from this State on business of the State, or of the
United States, shall not affect the question of residence of any person.

SEC. 20. A plurality of the votes given at any election shall constitute
a choice, where not otherwise directed in this constitution.

SEC. 21. All laws, decrees, regulations, and provisions, which from
their nature require publication, shall be published in English and
Spanish.


ARTICLE XII.

BOUNDARY.

The boundary of the State of California shall be as follows:--

Commencing at the point of intersection of the 42d degree of north
latitude with the 120th degree of longitude west from Greenwich, and
running south on the line of said 120th degree of west longitude until
it intersects the 39th degree of north latitude; thence running in a
straight line in a southeasterly direction to the river Colorado, at a
point where it intersects the 35th degree of north latitude; thence down
the middle of the channel of said river, to the boundary line between
the United States and Mexico, as established by the treaty of May 30th,
1848; thence running west and along said boundary line to the Pacific
Ocean, and extending therein three English miles; thence running in a
northwesterly direction, and following the direction of the Pacific
coast to the 42d degree of north latitude; thence on the line of said
42d degree of north latitude to the place of beginning. Also all the
islands, harbors and bays, along and adjacent to the Pacific coast.


SCHEDULE.

SEC. 1. All rights, prosecutions, claims and contracts, as well of
individuals as of bodies corporate, and all laws in force at the time of
the adoption of this constitution, and not inconsistent therewith, until
altered or repealed by the Legislature, shall continue as if the same
had not been adopted.

SEC. 2. The Legislature shall provide for the removal of all causes
which may be pending when this constitution goes into effect, to courts
created by the same.

SEC. 3. In order that no inconvenience may result to the public service,
from the taking effect of this constitution, no office shall be
superseded thereby, nor the laws relative to the duties of the several
offices be changed, until the entering into office of the new officers
to be appointed under this constitution.

SEC. 4. The provisions of this constitution concerning the term of
residence necessary to enable persons to hold certain offices therein
mentioned, shall not be held to apply to officers chosen by the people
at the first election, or by the Legislature at its first session.

SEC. 5. Every citizen of California, declared a legal voter by this
constitution, and every citizen of the United States, a resident of this
State on the day of election, shall be entitled to vote at the first
general election under this constitution, and on the question of the
adoption thereof.

SEC. 6. This constitution shall be submitted to the people, for their
ratification or rejection, at the general election to be held on
Tuesday, the thirteenth day of November next. The executive of the
existing government of California is hereby requested to issue a
proclamation to the people, directing the Prefects of the several
districts, or in case of vacancy, the Sub-Prefects, or senior Judge of
First Instance, to cause such election to be held, on the day aforesaid,
in their respective districts. The election shall be conducted in the
manner which was prescribed for the election of delegates to this
convention, except that the Prefect, Sub-Prefect, or senior Judge of
First Instance ordering such election in each district, shall have power
to designate any additional number of places for opening the polls, and
that, in every place of holding the election, a regular poll-list shall
be kept by the judges and inspectors of election. It shall also be the
duty of these judges and inspectors of election, on the day aforesaid,
to receive the votes of the electors qualified to vote at such election.
Each voter shall express his opinion, by depositing in the ballot-box a
ticket, whereon shall be written, or printed, “For the Constitution,” or
“Against the Constitution,” or some such words as will distinctly convey
the intention of the voter. These Judges and Inspectors shall also
receive the votes for the several officers to be voted for at the said
election, as herein provided. At the close of the election, the judges
and inspectors shall carefully count each ballot, and forthwith make
duplicate returns thereof to the Prefect, Sub-Prefect, or senior Judge
of First Instance, as the case may be, of their respective districts;
and said Prefect, Sub-Prefect, or senior Judge of First Instance, shall
transmit one of the same, by the most safe and rapid conveyance, to the
Secretary of State. Upon the receipt of said returns, or on the tenth
day of December next, if the returns be not sooner received, it shall be
the duty of a board of canvassers, to consist of the Secretary of State,
one of the Judges of the Superior Court, the Prefect, Judge of First
Instance, and an Alcalde of the District of Monterey, or any three of
the aforementioned officers, in the presence of all who shall choose to
attend, to compare the votes given at said election, and to immediately
publish an abstract of the same in one or more of the newspapers of
California. And the Executive will also, immediately after ascertaining
that the constitution has been ratified by the people, make proclamation
of the fact; and thenceforth this constitution shall be ordained and
established as the constitution of California.

SEC. 7. If this constitution shall be ratified by the people of
California, the Executive of the existing government is hereby
requested, immediately after the same shall be ascertained, in the
manner herein directed, to cause a fair copy thereof to be forwarded to
the President of the United States, in order that he may lay it before
the Congress of the United States.

SEC. 8. At the general election aforesaid, viz.: the thirteenth day of
November next, there shall be elected a Governor, Lieutenant Governor,
members of the Legislature, and also two members of Congress.

SEC. 9. If this constitution shall be ratified by the people of
California, the legislature shall assemble at the seat of government, on
the fifteenth day of December next, and in order to complete the
organization of that body, the Senate shall elect a President _pro
tempore_, until the Lieutenant Governor shall be installed into office.

SEC. 10. On the organization of the legislature, it shall be the duty of
the Secretary of State, to lay before each house a copy of the abstract
made by the board of canvassers, and, if called for, the original
returns of election, in order that each house may judge of the
correctness of the report of said board of canvassers.

SEC. 11. The legislature, at its first session, shall elect such
officers as may be ordered by this constitution, to be elected by that
body, and within four days after its organization, proceed to elect two
Senators to the Congress of the United States. But no law passed by this
legislature shall take effect until signed by the Governor, after his
installation into office.

SEC. 12. The Senators and Representatives to the Congress of the United
States, elected by the legislature and people of California, as herein
directed, shall be furnished with certified copies of this constitution,
when ratified, which they shall lay before the Congress of the United
States, requesting, in the name of the people of California, the
admission of the State of California into the American Union.

SEC. 13. All officers of this State, other than members of the
legislature, shall be installed into office on the fifteenth day of
December next, or as soon thereafter as practicable.

SEC. 14. Until the legislature shall divide the State into counties, and
senatorial and assembly districts, as directed by this constitution, the
following shall be the apportionment of the two houses of the
legislature, viz.: the districts of San Diego and Los Angelos shall
jointly elect two senators; the districts of Santa Barbara and San Luis
Obispo shall jointly elect one senator; the district of Monterey, one
senator; the district of San Jose, one senator; the district of San
Francisco, two senators; the district of Sonoma, one senator; the
district of Sacramento, four senators; and the district of San Joaquin,
four senators:--And the district of San Diego shall elect one member of
assembly; the district of Los Angelos, two members of assembly; the
district of Santa Barbara, two members of assembly; the district of San
Luis Obispo, one member of assembly; the district of Monterey, two
members of assembly; the district of San Jose, three members of
assembly; the district of San Francisco, five members of assembly; the
district of Sonoma, two members of assembly; the district of Sacramento,
nine members of assembly; and the district of San Joaquin, nine members
of assembly.

SEC. 15. Until the legislature shall otherwise direct, in accordance
with the provisions of this constitution, the salary of the Governor
shall be ten thousand dollars per annum; and the salary of the
Lieutenant Governor shall double the pay of a state senator; and the pay
of members of the legislature shall be sixteen dollars per diem, while
in attendance, and sixteen dollars for every twenty miles travel by the
usual route from their residences, to the place of holding the session
of the legislature, and in returning therefrom. And the legislature
shall fix the the salaries of all officers, other than those elected by
the people, at the first election.

SEC. 16. The limitation of the powers of the legislature, contained in
article 8th of this constitution, shall not extend to the first
legislature elected under the same, which is hereby authorized to
negotiate for such amount as may be necessary to pay the expenses of the
State Government.

R. SEMPLE,
President of the Convention,
and Delegate from Benicia.

WM. G. MARCY, Secretary.

J. ARAM,
C. T. BOTTS,
E. BROWN,
J. A. CARILLO,
J. M. COVARRUBIAS,
E. O. CROSBY,
P. D. LA GUERRA,
L. DENT,
M. DOMINGUEZ,
K. H. DIMMICK,
A. J. ELLIS,
S. C. FOSTER,
E. GILBERT,
W. M. GWINN,
H. W. HALLECK,
JULIAN HANKS,
L. W. HASTINGS,
HENRY HILL,
J. HOBSON,
J. MCH. HOLLINGSWORTH,
J. D. HOPPE,
J. M. JONES,
T. O. LARKIN,
FRANCIS L. LIPPITT,
B. S. LIPPINCOTT,
M. M. MCCARVER,
JOHN MCDOUGAL,
B. F. MOORE,
MYRON NORTON,
P. ORD,
MIGUEL PEDRORENA,
A. M. PICO,
R. M. PRICE,
HUGO REID,
JACINTO RODRIGUEZ,
PEDRO SANSEVAINE,
W. E. SHANNON,
W. S. SHERWOOD,
J. R. SNYDER,
A. STEARNS,
W. M. STEUART,
J. A. SUTTER,
HENRY A. TEFFT,
S. L. VERMULE,
M. G. VALLEJO,
J. WALKER,
O. M. WOZENCRAFT.



Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:

State of Caliiornia=> State of California {pg vii}

A CAIFORNIAN=> A CALIFORNIAN {pg 63}

my umbella=> my umbrella {pg 121}

PREPARTIONS=> PREPARATIONS {pg 123}

regal banquests=> regal banquets {pg 149}

most delighful=> most delightful {pg 154}

most fastidous=> most fastidious {pg 160}

to the riging=> to the rigging {pg 170}

first matet=> first mate {pg 174}

A HETACOMB=> A HECTACOMB {pg 184}

have praticed=> have practiced {pg 187}

remains, consesequently=> remains, consequently {pg 188}

very stongly=> very strongly {pg 195}

WRONGS THEY HAVR=> WRONGS THEY HAVE {pg 201}

the themometer=> the thermometer {pg 203}






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